HOMEBREW Digest #1221 Wed 08 September 1993

Digest #1220 Digest #1222

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  trub,trueb,treber and all that. (ROB THOMAS)
  cancell subscription (Matthew Whiting)
  legality of homebrewing in germany (ROB THOMAS)
  Dry hopping induces new fermentation??? (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  fermentation temp monitoring (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Treating glass carboys... (Corby Bacco)
  Re: fermentation temp monitoring (Ron Natalie)
  H(ot) S(ide) A(eration)? (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Beer Hunter (Chris Pencis)
  seasonal ales: dryhopping with spices (Mark Stewart)
  Kegging FAQ is a go!!! (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Stainless Steel and Chlorine ("Palmer.John")
  My first all grain batch - a screw up. (Greg_Habel)
  Re: Root beer (David Atkins)
  (SNPA) Clone. Was re:SN Stout Request (Don Leonard)
  Re: Yeast FAQ Ruckus (WEIX)
  All-grain questions ("Bill Kitch")
  Light struck beer (TAN1)
  Lager Brewing ("Robert H. Reed")
  Books on Brewing (Jason C Gerry)
  Re: True-bay (Nate Clark)
  RE: Old freezer chest (John Mare)
  regulator question (Bryan L. Gros)
  Re: Older Chest Freezers (brewerbob)
  Brewing Competition (brewerbob)
  RE:  Dry hopping; secondary fermentation. (John Mare)
  Old Recipes (CCAMDEN)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 09:14:49 MET DST From: ROB THOMAS <THOMASR at EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch> Subject: trub,trueb,treber and all that. Hello all, now that we can all approximate the u umlaut (ue) sound, and incorporate it in the word trub, I ought to point out something that I discovered last night while reading a german book on brewing (by Narziss, aka Gott). The german word that means the same as the English word trub is TRUB. There is NO umlaut! There is a word Trueb or Trueber which means cloudy, but that isn't the word used by brewers. There is also Treber, which translates as draff (ie the grains after sparging). Hence, the pronunciation is trub, with a germanic t and u, if anyone really wants to speak English with a German accent (after all, we call Muenchen Munich, so why should we call trub trub?). I hope this clarifies things for you all, I've certainly given up. Rob T. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 93 15:07:00 -0500 From: matthew.whiting at channel1.com (Matthew Whiting) Subject: cancell subscription Please cancell my subscription to HBD. My e-mail address on internet is matthew.whiting at channel1.com. I have have been receiving HBD on rec.crafts.brewing and wish to eliminate duplication. Thank you. - --- ~ DeLuxe} 1.25 #12626 ~ Let no man thirst for the lack of real ale. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 11:12:33 MET DST From: ROB THOMAS <THOMASR at EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch> Subject: legality of homebrewing in germany Hello all again, Here's just a quick question that hopefully someone can answer: Is homebrewing generally allowed in Germany? I had heard that selling books on how to brew were illegal, but that brewing (home) wasn't. I'm getting more interested in this problem since it's not beyond the realms of possibility that I'll be moving there in 4 or 5 years time. Any german subscibers out there? Rob. T. p.s. things are slowly improving in Switzerland: you can now buy those BrewKing brew bags in some supermarkets. A long way to go I know, but they're getting there. (I speak as someone who gets maximum three types of malt straight from Huerlimann [that umlaut again]) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 09:46:03 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Dry hopping induces new fermentation??? I have been reading an old book on brewing: _Brewing_, A. Chaston Chapman (President of the Institute of Brewing, Fellow of the Institute of Chemistry of Great Britain and Ireland, Fellow of the Chemical Society), Cambridge University Press, 1912. In it, the author states "It had long been known that the addition of a small quantity of fresh hops to beer in cask was usually followed by an outburst of fermentation, a fact which did not receive an adequate explanation until Brown and Morris showd that like most plants they contain diastase, which, of course, converts some of the malto-dextrin present into readily fermentable maltose." (p. 54) =S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:07:43 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: fermentation temp monitoring The fish tank ones don't have a wide enough range. I found some reptile thermometer strips that go from about 50 to 100 (F), which is fine for ales. I've alse seen ones apparently designed for brewing with an even better range; maybe this is what Sheaf & Vine is selling? =S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 08:12:32 MDT From: bacco at md.fsl.noaa.gov (Corby Bacco) Subject: Treating glass carboys... Hello, I have a friend who can get glass carboys from where he works. The catch is that they get them in full of Sulfuric acid. After they've used the acid he can take the carboy home. Question: how should I treat the carboy before using it for brewing? It's been suggested to used backing soda to neutralize the acid. Will that work? TIA -Corby (Happy to be out of Utah) Bacco Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:15:57 EDT From: Ron Natalie <ron at bds.com> Subject: Re: fermentation temp monitoring > The fish tank ones don't have a wide enough range. I found some > reptile thermometer strips that go from about 50 to 100 (F), which is > fine for ales. I've alse seen ones apparently designed for brewing > with an even better range; maybe this is what Sheaf & Vine is selling? > Actually, the beer one (I haven't checked who makes it) that I picked up to replace the one that was unsucessfully peeled from the aquarium doesn't have much more of a range than the fishtank ones. I can't remember if the low end goes down to the 50's but the high end is not above 85 I'm sure. -Ron Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:25:13 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: H(ot) S(ide) A(eration)? As I mentioned in an earlier note, I've been reading _Brewing_, published in 1912. The author is President of the Institute of Brewing, etc., etc., so I presume he's good for the current (1912) understanding of brewing processes. In the discussion of cooling (p. 66) he talks about "coolers", or long shallow pans in which the wort cools by exposure to ambient air, and (the relatively new-fangled) "refrigerators", which actively chill the wort by running it over or around tubes filled with a cold liquid. He then says (emphasis mine) "Certain of the constituents of the wort have the property of absorbing oxygen from the air at tolerably high temperatures, and this `hot aeration' as it is called, to distinguish it from the cold aeration or absorption of oxygen by the cold wort while passing over the refrigerator, is *very generally regarded as beneficial*. It is true that some authorities have questioned its importance, but I think there is a general consensus of opinion that these more or less obscure oxidation changes are *desirable* and that they do exert an appreciable effect on the brightening capacity of the finished beer." Now, clearly brewing science has advanced since 1912, and it seems to be now generally accepted that HSA is bad for the flavor. But it's interesting to see how accepted practice changes... =S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:38:13 CDT From: chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis) Subject: Beer Hunter Beer Hunter (not the game - the Michael Jackson series mentioned in a thread a while ago (mid 1100's I think)) is available on a 3 video set from the Wireless Catalog (Public Radio). It is priced about $50. The number for the catalog is 800-669-9999. Before you flame advertizing and all that - proceeds support Public Radio (a little preemptive strike there :)). Hope this info helps those who were looking for copies of the videos...I also hope that there are copies left when I order mine! Good luck and good beer, Chris ====================================================================== |Chris Pencis chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu | |University of Texas at Austin Robotics Research Group | ====================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1993 09:05:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Mark Stewart <mstewart at unssun.scs.unr.edu> Subject: seasonal ales: dryhopping with spices I'm hopping (hoping) to get some feedback on the following: Am considering a Thanksgiving-type ale that would involve the addition of some pumpkin pie spice (allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc.). My question(s) is, has anyone tried this before, (i.e., dryhopping with this stuff)? Should I do this after initial fermentation has terminated? Should I do this in conjunction with some aromatic hops? If so, what kind and how much? About how much of this pumpkin pie spice should be added for 5 gals? I'm really just after the aroma of pumpkin pie and am not interested in altering the flavor toooo much. Hope there's someone out there that's played with this kind of thing before. I would appreciate any and all feedback on this and can be e-mailed directly at mstewart at unssun.unr.edu. Thanks much, Mark (p.s., am considering using a brown ale recipe that I've made in the past and the pumpkin pie spice I saw was Schilling brand). Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 10:01:06 PDT From: megatek!hollen at uunet.UU.NET (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Kegging FAQ is a go!!! >From all the responses I have gotten, a kegging FAQ is an overwhelming YES. I now officially volunteer to be the keeper of the FAQ. Please send me every bit of information about kegging you know not only including techniques, but also suppliers of kegs and parts. I have gathered much of this already, but I will need your help to make it complete. I expect that the next 3+ weeks will be for collection. Then I go on vacation for 2 weeks and will work on the compilation of results when I return. Expect to see it uploaded to sierra.stanford.edu and announced the middle of October. dion Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Sep 1993 10:35:25 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer#d#john at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Stainless Steel and Chlorine In the recent post by Ed Hitchcock, he mentioned the current HBD wisdom of not using Bleach (chlorine) in Stainless Steel kegs and the current interest in iodine. While I would like to know exactly what the Cole Parmer catalog was refering to with NO EFFECT, it may not pertain to what I am relating here. Being a metallurgist, (i have a feeling that most of us are college grads of one form or another, using the convienient computer systems at work,{:o ) I checked out the Metals Handbook Vol. 13- Corrosion, on Chlorine and Stainless and here is what I found. Chlorine (aqueous) is highly corrosive to austenitic stainless steels, which includes the 304 alloy most commonly used for Food Grade containers. The mechanism of corrosion homebrewers mostly have to be concerned with is Pitting Corrosion. This is caused by localized concentration of chlorine ions. Those ions become concentrated by evaporation of water containing chlorine. The corrosion is manifested as tiny pits which, due to increased relative concentration of the chlorine in the pit to the surrounding environment, quickly put pinholes in your tanks. To prevent this type of corrosion, the key is good rinsing of the bleach water from the steel. First off, let me say that the 1+ tablespoon bleach per gallon (4ml/liter) is not much in the context of the industrial corrosion that the Metals Handbook is written to. Most of what I read dealt with continuous flow through pipes, etc. Anyway, If you rinse with warm boiled water until you don't really smell it, and then prevent water droplets on the sides by either filling the keg with beer or drying them out with a towel, you will not have the localized concentration necessary to induce pitting. One other thing that can be done with Stainless Steel is passivation. A 20% by volume solution of (HNO3) Nitric Acid will ensure a uniform oxide film which will prevent the localized concentration/activity difference which initiates this form of galvanic corrosion. But I don't think this should be necessary. While I am discussing stainless steel, I have a word of caution for those of you get stainless steel tanks welded with fittings. There is a time at temperature range (800-1600F) for austenitic stainless that results in Sensitization. This term is used to describe a precipitation of chromium carbides away from the grain boundaries which results in intergranular corrosion and brittleness. You can practically snap it with your hands. This is a common problem in welding of 304 stainless where the weld zone should be cooled below 1100F within five minutes or the precipitation will start to occur. This also means that heat between 1100-1600F for more than five minutes should be avoided ie weld time. If any of you are noticing leaking or cracking around your fittings, this is what has happened. The only way to fix it is to anneal the whole thing at roughly 1950F for 5min/.1inch section size followed by fairly rapid cooling to avoid Sensitizing it all over again. By the way, 304L (L for less carbon) does not usually have this problem, nor does 316L or 321. Hope this wasn't too longwinded. John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 13:12:22 edt From: Greg_Habel at DGC.ceo.dg.com Subject: My first all grain batch - a screw up. Message: Well, I attempted my first all grain batch this past weekend. Using a rectangular picnic cooler with a copper t'd manifold for mashing and sparging. Picnic cooler is a 10 gallon. Mashed 6lbs highly modified pale malt and 8 oz crystal with 6 quarts of 168F water for 1 hour. Did the iodine test. The color was blackish but it turned to clear when I stirred it up a bit. Here's the part I think I screw'd up. When sparging with 3 gallons of 170F water, I had a very difficult time of not disturbing the grain bed. Most of the time it was very turbulent. Anyways, the OG ended up being 1.024!!!! I quickly went to the fridge and pounded a couple of homebrews, yeast and all! Here's my question... how important is it that the grain bed is kept relatively undisturbed while sparging? Also, will the liquid turn colorless near the end of the sparge. Mine didn't. How do you add 3 gallons of 170F sparge water without disturbing the grain bed? Could it be that my cooler is too large, ie the grain bed is not deep enough? I decided to ferment it anyways. I'd love to give this another shot this weekend. Greg. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 93 12:22 CDT From: David Atkins <ATKINS at macc.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Root beer I recall discussions concerning how to condition root beer wihout fermenting away the sugar. Since I just skimmed those postings, I did not catch whether or not pasteurizing was mentioned as a possible method. While I have never pasteurized anything except fruit preserves and can hypothosize on pro's and con', does anyone have any knowledged experiences to share with the list? Thanks, David Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 13:01 CDT From: hplabs!mcdcup!tellabs.com!don (Don Leonard) Subject: (SNPA) Clone. Was re:SN Stout Request I'm having trouble posting to rec.crafts.brewing so hopefully this will satisfy most of the recent email requests for this recipie. - -- Included File -- OK - I know, I know... the response I posted was for Sierra Nevada Pale Ale NOT the Stout!!! But someone used SNPA - that means PALE ALE... well anyway... I got lots of request for the recipie so here it is: 6.6# light malt extract .5# Laaglander DME 12oz Belgian Cara-Vienna 22L 8oz Belgian Cara-Pils 7L 1oz Perle pellet 7.1AA 60min .5oz Cascade pellet 5.5AA 30min .5oz Cascade pellet 5.5AA 15min 1oz Cascade whole 5.7AA dry hop 1tsp Irish Moss 15min Wyeast 1056 American Ale OG = 1050 FG = 1013 Brewing Notes: Do a full boil (60 min). Hop rates are based on a 5 gallon boil so if you boil less then increase the hop rate to compensate. Crush then steep the grains until ~170 deg, then remove. Wort was chilled to 68deg before pitching. Once the grains are removed, shut off the heat and add all of the extracts. This will avoid scorching the extracts and darkening the wort. Stir well then add heat and bring to a boil. Add the dry hops in the secondary for around 5 days. When you rack the beer to the bottling bucket, tie a sanitized hop bag to the end of the hose or racking cane that goes into the bucket. This will catch any stray hop bits that might get sucked into the racking cane. In practice you wont get much if you use whole hops so you can omit the bag if you'd like. If you hav'ent tried dry hopping I encourage you to do so. The hop nose is fantastic and adds so much to the character to the brew. I don't feel you will be able to match it with normal finishing hops. I have not had the chance to compare this to a real SNPA but people tell me its very close. The OG is a bit shy of the true mark which is 1057 so I would increase the DME by maybe 1/2# to compensate. The mouth feel is a bit heavy from what I remember so you may wish to reduce the specialty grains somewhat. If your not sure then just go with it the way it is. You won't be dissapointed. enjoy!! Would you believe, someone flamed me for not paying closer attention to the title of the post I responded to then - asked me for my SNPA recipie ???? Sheesh... some people :-) don -- End Of Included Message -- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 14:04:06 -0500 (CDT) From: WEIX at swmed.edu Subject: Re: Yeast FAQ Ruckus Hi All, Well, I feel that since my post was the cause of all the wasted bandwidth (either for the FAQ itself if you agree with JS or for the flame-fanning in response if you don't), that I should speak my piece. To JS's credit, he originally sent me the piece he went on to post about netiquette by e-mail a few days before it appeared in the HBD. At the time, I thought it was just a personal response, so I wrote him back explaining my reasons. I did not save my exact message, because I did not expect it to make its way into the public forum, but I will repeat the main points here. The main reason that I feel compelled to "answer the charges" as it were is that I dislike the implication that I did not know what I was doing and furthermore didn't care. I reposted the whole mess because: 1. It had undergone extensive revision. I change the intro, reformatted some of the general info sections and expanded others, updated the dry ale yeast data, expanded and changed the liquid ale yeast, expanded and changed the liquid lager yeast, updated some of the weizens, clarified some points in the rehydration section, cleaned up the section on culturing, and added two whole new sections. Just posting the changes would have meant a lot of work for me in separating them out, and tons of work for anyone who would try to make sense of the new info ((cut and paste)^3). 2. I did not serialize it over several days because: a) the variable length of the queue makes it difficult to predict when something will come out, and b) the sections did not fit easily into 8k chunks, making it difficult to find good stopping points. 3. As to fine-tuning it by e-mail, I had already been through many rounds of revisions and updates with every yeast expert who reacted/responded to the first message as well as many yeast novices who requested clarifications, simplifications, or expansions of key points. 4. Given that I had changed it so much and desiring to avoid the infamous group think phenomenon, I decided RELUCTANTLY to submit the mess to the collective wisdom of the HBD for another rehashing/trashing. The deciding point for me was the realization that at the end of one week, the digest would be at the same place whether I serialized or not. Even with all the debacle, I am glad that I reposted because I have had several good responses to info in the updated version. Those hardy souls and I have communicated by e-mail, and I hope to have the mess ready for sierra by this weekend. Fear not, I shall not repost the beast again! Finally, as for the results of his 10 to 1 poll, I would suggest that irritated people are 10 times more likely to respond than those who are satisfied, and that his was the only negative comment that I have received from anyone regarding either the value of the FAQ or the size. (That is not an invitation!!) I hope that no one else is discouraged from doing FAQs or information resources or whatever. It is a great way to learn about a subject and contribute to the art of homebrewing by computer all at once. I do apologize for any inconvenience. If anyone needs to reach me, I am |------------------------------------------------------------| | Patrick Weix weix at swmed.edu | | UT Southwestern Medical Center tel: (214) 648-5050 | | 5323 Harry Hines Blvd fax: (214) 648-5453 | | Dallas, TX 75235 Hopfs und Malz, Gott erhalt's | |------------------------------------------------------------| You know, when I get home tonight, I am going to relax and have *several* homebrews! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 13:04:03 CST From: "Bill Kitch" <kitchwa at bongo.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: All-grain questions I went all grain several months ago and will never turn back. However, I've got some new problems. I'm sure you experienced all-grainers can help me solve them. 1) I've had haze problems since I started mashing my own grains. Not chill haze, rather ther beer never clarifies properly. I know the most likely source is uncoverted starches. However, my mashes all passed the iodine test (sample taken from top of mash tun). Is there a better conversion test? Is there another possible source for this haze? 2) Sparging questions: a) How much recirculation. "Recirculate until runoff is clear". Sounds great in print. However, for amber or darker beers this is not as obvious as is sounds. In last batch I recirculated the first 5 qts. Is this excessive? b) When to stop sparging. "Don't over sparge". I like this about as much as "cook until done". The three techniques I know of are 1) sparge until running reach certain gravity (1.010?), 2) Sparge until pH is too high ( > 5.5?), 3) Sparge until boiler is full. Both Miller and Papazian give mash & sparge water quantities, but the last time I used these my final runnings were 1.020, seemed wasteful. 3) Seperating break material & spent hops from wort. When I syphon my cooled wort from the boiler into the fermenter, my syphon tube clogs leaving 1/2 to 1 gallon of wort/trub in the boiler. I usually pore the last of this glog into mason jars, allow the trub to settle and decant the wort for use as starters. One quart of glog doen't bother me but for my last triple I was left with nearly a gallon. Again seems wasteful. Techniques? Equipment? (I know, Jack, I should drill a hole in the bottom of my boiler and install a SS screen w/tubing etc. I'm seriously considering this but would like to hear other alternatives.) TIA, WAK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 13:22:42 PDT From: TAN1%SysEng%DCPP at cts27.comp.pge.com Subject: Light struck beer Cheers to Chris Campanelli and his Pizza and Beer FAQ. I for one am looking forward to parts 2 through 29! Nothing like poking some fun at various flames that have been going on lately. On to business. I have been relagated to brewing outdoors since several years back I had a glass carboy explode in my bedroom closet (The saddest day of my life - superbowl stout exploded, taking out the carpet and most of the clothes in the closet). Now I have recently gone back to glass fermenters, 6.5 gallon vice 5 gallon. I was wondering when light struck beer begins to be a problem. My recollection is that hop acid, when exposed to light, will impart a "Skunky" smell. If so then even while fermenting you are capable of light damaging your beer. Could anyone expound on this for me. Do I need to keep my primary fermenter in a box (remember the closet is out!). TIA. Tom Nelson Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1993 14:17:54 -0400 (EDT) From: "Robert H. Reed" <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com> Subject: Lager Brewing In response to questions from Phil Brushaber regarding lager fermentation: I have been brewing lager beers for many years and my experience has been better lagers are brewed at cooler temperatures: I conduct primary fermentation at 48F and secondary fermentation at 42F. There is no question that fermentation at these temperatures takes several months. Once secondary fermentation is completed, I typically lager my beers at 32F-35F for three to four weeks. An important point to be made is that during cold fermentation, a substantial amount of CO2 dissolves into your beer. An excellent reference on this topic is "Brewing Lager Beers" by Greg Noonan > Two questions fellow "Lagermeisters"... > 1. All the sources I read said that secondary > should take place at 50 degrees. My experience would lead me > to belive this is too low. > 2. How long should one typically expect a secondary > to take? When is it safe to bottle or keg? > > > - -- ********************************************************* **** Rob Reed **** *** IC Design Center *** *** Delco Electronics Corporation *** **** Internet: rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com **** ********************************************************* Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1993 17:07:17 -0400 (EDT) From: Jason C Gerry <jcg at kepler.unh.edu> Subject: Books on Brewing I am curious if there are any good books on home brewing... I would also like to hear of any important do's and do nots that I should know about and how much time I need to invest in producing a small amount of brew. I would also like to hear from any people who have tried to market their beer, their successes, failures, etc. (personally e-mail me if you can) Jason Gerry University of New Hampshire jcg at kepler.unh.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 17:25:05 -0400 (EDT) From: Nate Clark <NC6967 at conrad.appstate.edu> Subject: Re: True-bay Although I thought the issue of trub pronunciation had died down, Jack stirred up an overwhelming sense of curiousity inside me. So much, in fact, I just have to ask one more question... Where were these german speakers from? It's possible that they said 'True-bay,' as german has different dialects just as english does. However, the word they are saying is clearly spelled 'truebe.' It is an adjective form of our brewing word, trub, a noun (trueb in german), meaning dreary. It is quite possible that if these germans were unfamiliar with brewing, they could have related 'dreary' with the weather, thus the German phase 'das truebe Wetter,' the dreary weather. Hence the clouds. My arguement is simple. In english it's trub (noun). We have been trying to discover the pronunciation of the german word Trueb (noun). Your german friends appearantly were saying truebe (an adjective). Under nearly every case using the noun, it would be spelled Trueb in German. Therefore, I submit to you that the correct pronunciation of trueb as we use it in brewing would be closely approximated in english as "troop," if one remembers to keep the "oo" short. Of course if you say trube (rhyming with tube), most american brewers will understand you. Nate Clark Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 15:08:53 -0600 (CST) From: John Mare <cjohnm at ccit.arizona.edu> Subject: RE: Old freezer chest Wally, I have been using a 18 cubic foot chest freezer which was old when I bought it for $40 23 years ago. I used it as a freezer until I purchased a "William's" temperature controller 3 years ago. Now it is my brewchest. In contrast to when it was a freezer, the motor is now off much of the time since it only has to maintain 40 - 65!F instead of freezer temperature. I monitor temperature with a dairy thermometer in a bottle of dilute chlorine, and find my temperature fluctuations to be minimal. The chest probably varies by 3 - 4 !F, but the mass of the beer fluctuates hardly at all. There is no brand name on the chest, but I know it precedes the "frost-free" era of freezers and refrigerators, and therefore does not possess the more complicated temperature controls needed for the defrosting process. I theink you're probably right in assuming that and old (preferably $40) freezer is the best bet. John Mar!, John's Alehouse, Tucson, Arizona. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 15:58:48 PDT From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros) Subject: regulator question While we're on the subject of kegging... Most of the kegging setups I've seen at shops have regulators on the CO2 bottles with two "dials". What do the two dials read? Are two necessary? I don't want to skimp on the regulator, but I don't want to buy something unnecessary. - Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 93 18:49:20 EDT From: brewerbob at aol.com Subject: Re: Older Chest Freezers To: akcs.wally Subj: Older Chest freezers From: BrewerBob at aol.com Wally, I have a chest freezer with a Honeywell temperature controller that works just great. It turns the power to the freezer on or off. I set the freezer control to coldest setting. I have used the freezer as high as 63 deg for fermentation and as low as 40 deg for lagering. Much of the time it is set at about 50 deg for serving, I have two taps on the lid! As far as the electric bill is concerned, I really don't know what it costs me but I would think it would have to be less than it would be if I used the freezer as a freezer since it is not keeping it as cold and I don't open it often. My controller keeps the temperature within plus or minus 1.5 degrees of where it is set for unless I leave the lid open for a long period of time. BrewerBob Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 93 18:41:52 EDT From: brewerbob at aol.com Subject: Brewing Competition To: All Home Brewers From: BrewerBob at aol.com (Bob Davis) Subj: Brewing competition - Stout and Pale Ale Press Release: The Northeast Florida Society of Brewers, co-sponsored by The Hogtown Brewer of Gainesville, FL and The Home Brewery of Brooksville, FL, announce the 1st annual First Coast Brewer's Challenge, an AHA sanctioned homebrew competition to be held the first week in November, 1993. Competition is open to all home brewers. Entry deadline is October 29, 1993 with the final judging taking place on November 7, 1993. Beer styles for this competition are limited to Stout (all types) and Pale Ale (all types). Fee is $6.00 per entry with three bottles of beer required for each entry. Prizes include merchandise with at least $50.00 worth for first and $20.00 for second place. For information, cantest rules and entry forms, contact Bob Gammie (904) 241-8879 (RobertG211 at aol.com on Internet), Chuck Cummins (904) 292-2166 or Joe Bryant (904) 399-3367 (BPNS42A on Prodigy) or write to: Brewer's Challenge, 354 Magnolia Street, Atlantic Beach, FL 32233. End of release... - - Folks, here's your chance to see how good that beer you make really is! Join in the fun and win a prize! At the very least, your beer will be critiqued by an AHA certified judge and you will be able to see how your beer rates and will have a basis for braging to your riends. I will be entering my oatmeal stout and I expect it to do well! Can you beat me? BrewerBob at aol.com Bob Davis Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 17:04:23 -0600 (CST) From: John Mare <cjohnm at ccit.arizona.edu> Subject: RE: Dry hopping; secondary fermentation. Domenick asks about dry hopping. I use only whole hops for dry hopping in the secondary (glass carboy). Hops pour in easily with paper funnel, float near the top, and do not clog my siphon at bottling. There really is no answer to the question about "typical reduction" in SG in the secondary since this is a function of when you rack. With ale I rack on day 3 or 4 when the final SG has almost been reached. If I racked earlier, obviously the SG would still be higher. With lagers brewed at lower temperatures (50!F) I rack on day 5 or 6 and usually the SG will drop a few more points in the 3 weeks before I bottle. I hope this helps. John Mar!, John's Alehouse, Tucson, AZ. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1993 20:52:00 -0400 (EDT) From: CCAMDEN at delphi.com Subject: Old Recipes Sorry to waste the bandwidth (although I have seen sillier things) but since subscribing to the HBD for the past three weeks, I have been going through the archives. I have downloaded about one and one half years worth, and every so often I see something that makes me write to the original writer. But in this case, the email bounced. Here is the post from last December. >Date: Fri, 4 Dec 92 10:24:18 -0600 >From: hpfcla.fc.hp.com!melkor!rick (Rick Larson) >Subject: 1992 Minnesota Brew Fest winning recipes > >I have compiled the 14 winning recipes (including Best >of Show) from the 1992 Minnesota Brew Fest. If anyone >wants them, let me know via private email. Please specify >either PostScript or ASCII (default will be ASCII). >The recipes will be distributed to the local homebrew >stores (Minneapolis MN) so you too can brew the winning >beer. > >rick rick at adc.com My question is, does anyone have these recipes? If you do have them, could you email me the ascii version? I have my second batch in the secondary, and my third in the primary and I am trying to line up my next batches. Thanks in advance. Cary Camden, Huntsville, AL Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1221, 09/08/93