HOMEBREW Digest #1222 Thu 09 September 1993

Digest #1221 Digest #1223

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  seasonal ales: dryhopping with spices (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Homebrew Digest #1221 (September 08, 1993) (JZABDER)
  iodophor (donald oconnor)
  re: light struck beer ("Bill Kitch")
  lager time & hot liquor tanks/O2 (Jim Busch)
  Heather Ale ("/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/")
  Thanks from a couple of lurkers (P Brooks)
  Grain Brewing Questions ("Robert H. Reed")
  dry hopping question ("Jeff M. Michalski, MD")
  My opinion on Trub ("Palmer.John")
  Addtn to kegging FAQ/liquid-crystal thermometers/T-giving (spiced) ale (korz)
  Re: hazy beer/sparging/separating wort from hops/2-gauge regulators (korz)
  acid bottles / CF chiller cleaning / ??? (npyle)
  Re: Freezers (Don Leonard)
  Primary Fermetor question (geotex)
  Fridge Costs (Kieran O'Connor)
  Re: regulator question  (Drew Lynch)
  Re: Hard, high pH water treatment for new masher (HBD #1205) (Bill Flowers)
  questions on making mead / suggestion re: exploding carboy (Jim Graham)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 07:02:27 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: seasonal ales: dryhopping with spices Randy Mosher of Chicago, an admitted spice-beer addict recommends using spice "infusions" -- soak the spices in vodka for a week or two, then add a measured amount to your beer before bottling. The nice thing about this approach is that you can test the spicing level in a glass of beer before "ruining" your whole batch. Add drops with a medicine dropper (one with calibrations), then you can scale up from the volume of the glass (8 oz?) to the whole batch (5*128 oz). =S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 05:33:43 PDT From: JZABDER at BCSC02.GOV.BC.CA Subject: Homebrew Digest #1221 (September 08, 1993) To: HOMEBREW--INTERNET homebrew at hpfcmi.fc *** Reply to note of 09/08/93 00:47 System Operations Thanks Would you please remove me from the distribution list...Thanks G'day Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1993 08:39:01 -0500 From: donald oconnor <oconnor at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: iodophor Sometime ago there was a rather spirited discussion about iodophors. I didn't have time to add some info at that time but it seems iodophor is again topical so I'll pass along a little bit of stuff now. Specifically, it seems clear from Kelly Jones post earlier this week that there is still confusion regarding acid and detergents in iodophor. I spoke with Dr. Landum of National Chemical which is the producer of BTF iodophor. Dr. Landum is, like me, a Ph.D. chemist. This may be more than anyone wants to ever know about iodophor but it might help clear up some of the confusion. There have been several types of iodophor produced over the years and the general idea behind all of them is the same: complexed molecular iodine in some material that will dissolve in water and then release the iodine to kill a bacterium or virus or yeast cell. An organic material is required to form the complex with iodine, but the organic material needs to be also soluble in water. This is characteristic of a surfactant and that's why all iodophors contain surfactants. The one in BTF is essentially a large alcohol. The surfactant in the iodophor currently under discussion is a little different according to another post on Monday's digest. Iodophors can be generally broken down into two classes on the basis of the production process. The production process dictates in part which surfactant(s) is used, which in turn dictates other features such as the presence of acid. A "hot" process was developed in the 30's or 40's and a "cold" process was developed in the 50's. Iodophor produced by the older "hot" process does not release the iodine into water very efficiently at neutral pH but will at lower pH. Thus the need to add acid to these iodophors. Phosphoric acid has been mentioned here but several other acids have been used over the years. The newer process resulted in iodophors which did not need acid to release the iodine. BTF and BEST are examples of these. Both types are meant to be used in industrial applications. Both have roughly the same level of iodine. The differences have to do with the surfactants and acid. The ones containing acid have particular utility to dairies because of the effect of the acid in dissolving residual milk stone from the equipment. This of course is not a consideration for breweries. This is not to say that breweries can't use the one with acid, but breweries use other cleaning procedures. The disadvantage of the iodophors which contain acid is that they lather or foam when agititated, at least more so than the newer iodophors, and this is a concern for brewery use. don Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 08:55:10 CST From: "Bill Kitch" <kitchwa at bongo.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: re: light struck beer in HBD #1221 Tom Nelson writes: [snip] >I was wondering when light struck beer begins to be a >problem. My recollection is that hop acid, when exposed to light, will >impart a "Skunky" smell. If so then even while fermenting you are capable >of light damaging your beer. Could anyone expound on this for me. Do I >need to keep my primary fermenter in a box (remember the closet is out!). YES YES YES cover your fermenter with a box, brown paper bag or something else to block light. As an experiment a few months ago I bottles some pale ale in a clear bottle. I placed the bottle in direct sunlight for 30 minutes and the skunk smell was overwhelming! I find some of the descriptions of off-smells and flavor a bit arcane, but this one is right on SKUNK. WAK Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1993 10:03:05 -0500 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: lager time & hot liquor tanks/O2 IN the last digest: <In response to questions from Phil Brushaber regarding lager fermentation: I have been brewing lager beers for many years and my experience has been better lagers are brewed at cooler temperatures: I conduct primary fermentation at 48F and secondary fermentation at 42F. There is no question that fermentation at these temperatures takes several months. Well.....It only takes 5-7 days at the Old Dominion Brewing Company. My 1.080 Maibock fermented in 10 days...... The real issue here is a big one in homebrewing: Enough healthy yeast (most homebrewers underpitch), enough disolved oxygen ( most homebrewers under oxygenate) and a healthy pool of fermentables in the bitter wort (usually not an issue, but the breakdown of the composition of the fermentables vs nonfermentables will invariably dictate the degree of attenuation in the finished product). ` I guess the question is :how long does your *fermentation* take? ie, how long until the SG has dropped by 75%? No doubt that some continual activity/lagering will occur but when everything is done perfectly, a lager ferment in between 7-10 days. ******************* Well, I installed a Hot liquor tank (propane water heater) and much to my delight, it works perfectly! The way to sparge with it is to barely open the hot out faucet. This makes the hot water trickle onto the grains aroung 163F (hottest setting on the heater). Cold city water flows in to the bottom of the heater, where the thermostat quickly fires up the burner. Within 15 minutes, the outlet temp is up to 170F! No modifications required. This even surpases my expectations. I also hooked up a O2 injecter with a silica airstone. I bubbled at ~1 psi for 1.5-2 hours. The ferment kicked in within 4 hours, and by morning, it was as beautiful as any I have seen. The taste test will have to wait two weeks. Good brewing, Jim Busch DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1993 09:56:00 EST From: "/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/" at mr.cber.fda.gov Subject: Heather Ale KONSTANTINE at delphi.com writes: >I'm new to the digest and I love all the info that's available. I'm >looking for a recipe for Heather Ale and I was wondering if anyone >knows where I can find one. Thanks again. Well, here's another opportunity to root through my dusty tomes. The following excerpt is from a book called "The Scots Cellar". I only have xeroxed pages from this book (I don't even have the author's name right offhand). I'll check with the Library of Congress and try to get a complete citation. At any rate, here is a cottage recipe, supposedly from the Isle of Orkney, for heather ale: "Crop the heather when it is in full bloom - a good large quantity. Put the croppings into a large-sized pot, fill up with water, set to boil. Boil for one hour. Then strain into a clean tub. Add one ounce of ground ginger, half an ounce of hops, and a pound of golden syrup for every dozen bottles. Set to boil again and boil for twenty minutes. Strain into a clean cask. Let it stand until milkwarm, then add a teacupful of good barm (brewer's yeast). Cover with a coarse cloth till next day. Skim the barm from the top and pour gently into a tub so that the barm may be left in the bottom. Bottle and cork tight. It will be ready for use in two or three days. This makes a very refreshing and wholesome drink as there is a good deal of spirit in heather." The author suggests substituting heather honey for the "golden syrup" (which I believe is simply corn syrup). He also suggests using less ginger than the recipe specifies, as ginger tends to overpower the subtle flavor of the heather. No indication is given as to what comprises a "good large quantity" of heather, but the author suggests cropping the heather blossoms with as little stalk as possible, as the stalk tends to impart a great deal of bitterness. I believe there is also a heather ale recipe in the book "The Curiosities of Ale & Beer" by John Bickerdyke, but my copy is on loan at the moment. If I remember correctly, Bickerdyke's recipe simply calls for adding the crushed heather blossoms to a standard beer wort before fermenting. If anyone attempts to recreate this ancient brew (I've given some thought to it but haven't as yet), please post the results. "From the bonny bells o' heather They brewed a drink langsyne, Was sweeter far than honey, Was stronger far than wine." Robert Louis Stevenson, "Heather Ale" Bill Ridgely (Brewer, Patriot, Bicyclist) __o ridgely at a1.cber.fda.gov -\<, ridgely at cber.cber.fda.gov ...O/ O... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1993 10:34:52 -0400 (EDT) From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: various I will be traveing to San Francisco next weekend and would appreciate it if anyone would recommend brew pubs or microbreweries to visit. I've already been to Anchor. E-mail responses would be fine to save bandwidth. (I do not have access to list servers or archives that I can readily download!) In response to Greg_Habel concern about his low O.G. My guess is that he did a very limited sparge, using only 3 gallons. I usually sparge with about 5 gallons of water and recirculate the first 2 gallons until it clears. In regards to the Weix-FAQ. He did an immeasurable service to many brewers. For years I have been wanting a handy reference to yeast strains and the band- width he used was well worth it. I can't see how people complain when almost as much bandwidth was taken up on a humorous but almost worthless topic of how to pronounce "trub." Get real! Andy Kligerman e-mail address: kligerman%am%herlvx at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1993 16:04:05 -0800 From: pbrooks at rig.rain.com (P Brooks) Subject: Thanks from a couple of lurkers This is just a quick note of thanks to all the contributors to the HBD over the last several months. After reading HBD (and rec.craft.brewing) for a couple months while making our own, my partner and I decided that all grain really didn't look _all_ that hard. So - after digging thru the archived HBD's that I had, and reading everything that related to mash/lauter tun's, easymashers (tm), conversion, gott coolers, and a few other threads - we bought a seven gallon gott, fabricated something like the ascii picture I saw of the easymasher (tm), bought the grain, hops, et. al. and brewed. Even though we knew it was _supposed_ to happen - conversion was just sort of amazing (I mean it really did turn sweet), and the way the wort cleared after filtering through the grain bed for a minute or so went just like it was supposed to. To make a *long* afternoon short - there's a couple things we'd do different the next time (yes there will be a next time), and with practice it should go smoother, but most importantly, there's a carboy of beer-to-be bubbling merrily away in the basement. Thanks again for all the indirect help. ciao, pb - --- pbrooks at rig.rain.com Renaissance Information Group Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1993 12:46:40 -0400 (EDT) From: "Robert H. Reed" <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com> Subject: Grain Brewing Questions In response to Greg's Grain Brewing problems: > Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 13:12:22 edt > From: Greg_Habel at DGC.ceo.dg.com > Subject: My first all grain batch - a screw up. > Well, I attempted my first all grain batch this past weekend. Using > a rectangular picnic cooler with a copper t'd manifold for mashing > and sparging. Picnic cooler is a 10 gallon. Mashed 6lbs highly > modified pale malt and 8 oz crystal with 6 quarts of 168F water for 1 > hour. Did the iodine test. The color was blackish but it turned to > clear when I stirred it up a bit. Here's the part I think I screw'd > up. When sparging with 3 gallons of 170F water, I had a very > difficult time of not disturbing the grain bed. Most of the time it > was very turbulent. Anyways, the OG ended up being 1.024!!!! A 10 gallon mash/lauter tun is too big for such a small amount of grain. IMHO, you need a grain bed a minimum of six to eight inches deep. I have found that you will have to add sparge water very gingerly to a grain bed less than 10 or 12 inches deep. Many homebrew authors have their own opinions on this subject, but I feel the deeper the grain bed, the better. A 5 gallon vertical drink cooler would be more appropriate for the small mash you described. A suggestion to avoid disturbing your grain bed is to use something to slow down or diffuse the water going into your mash-tun: I use a large plastic bowl with several 1/8" holes placed in the top of my converted 5 gal drink cooler mash/lauter tun. Commercial brewers typically use a sprayer head to diffuse the sparge water as it enters the lauter tun. > Here's my question... how important is it that the grain > bed is kept relatively undisturbed while sparging? Also, will the > liquid turn colorless near the end of the sparge. Mine didn't. It is very important to keep your grainbed undisturbed during the sparge, otherwise you can wash a lot of draff into your boiler. This can lead to off flavors like astringency and/or clarity problems. There should be very little sugar in your mash at the conclusion of sparging; however, if you sparge until the runoff is colorless, you may be oversparging. There are many ways to endpoint your sparging operation. I use George Fix's rule of thumb, that is use 1.25qt water/# grain for the mash and use the same amount of sparge water/# grain for sparging. This implies limiting your runoff to 2.5qts sweet wort/# grain. Another way to endpoint your sparge is to taste the wort periodically. If the runoff is no longer sweet or has an astringent flavor (like iced tea), you should terminate the runoff. I believe you are better off undersparging by a slight amount, rather than risk tannin extraction as a result of oversparging. ********************************************************* **** Rob Reed **** *** IC Design Center *** *** Delco Electronics Corporation *** **** Internet: rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com **** ********************************************************* Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 12:11:08 -0500 From: "Jeff M. Michalski, MD" <michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu> Subject: dry hopping question I have a few questions regarding dry hopping. I've brewed a dark, rich, all grain Christmas ale to which I plan to add 3-4 oz of Willamette pellets. I've never dry hopped with pellets and the talk over the net has begun to worry me. I planned to rack my beer to a clean carboy after secondary fermentation (to get it off the yeast sediment to avoid autolysis) then add the hops and dry hop for 4-6 weeks at 40 - 45 degrees F. This was recommended by a homebrewer who has since left town (ie I cannot ask him for advice regarding any pitfalls). The beer I am making is dark ale with an original gravity of 1.073 to which I want to impart a strong hop aroma. Is this off base or can I do this without ruining 5 gallons of a good tasting ale? JEFF M. MICHALSKI Return to table of contents
Date: 8 Sep 1993 10:23:02 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer#d#john at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: My opinion on Trub My Fellow HBDers, Since this issue is so dear to our hearts, I felt you were entitled to my opinion. I first read the word in Miller's book, and with my command of the Michigan dialect of American Standard English, pronouned it TRUB with a short U. As in: Rub a dub dub, a whole lot of Trub. I LIKE this pronounciation, it SOUNDS like the crap at the bottom of the barrel. I motion that HBD adopts this version and we get on with it. Next time I'm in Frankenmuth, I'll raise a stein with my friends and we'll all sing a polka, but until then, its Trub. John Palmer Formerly of Michigan Tech, now stuck in Southern California. I want get back to the real world. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 10:49:01 PST From: Richard B Foehringer <Richard_B_Foehringer at ccm.hf.intel.com> Subject: RED TAIL ALE RECIPE CLONE WANTED HELLO ALL, DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE A TRIED AND PROVEN RECIPE CLONE FOR "RED TAIL ALE"?? EITHER EXTRACT OR FULL GRAIN IS OK.....THANKS IN ADVANCE!! DICK FOEHRINGER Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 14:03 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Addtn to kegging FAQ/liquid-crystal thermometers/T-giving (spiced) ale Al Richer did a good job summarizing the basics of kegging. I would like to add a bit more info. In addition to the big o-ring and the two under the dip tubes, there are also o-rings on the poppets INSIDE the connectors (the part of the connector that is screwed onto the keg, over the diptube -- not the part of the connector that is at the end of the hose). I suggest changing these two poppets (I've yet to find poppets with replacable o-rings). Also, there are orings on the outside of the connectors (again the part of the connectors that screw onto the keg). The gas-side oring has never been in contact with syrup, but a leak here would be a big waste of CO2, so I suggest replacing both. Finally, there is a gasket, usually a flat disk in the pressure relief valve. I've found some keg styles that have a removable gasket, but have yet to find a replacement, so I just replace the whole relief valve if possible (some styles of lids don't have a removable relief valve). That gives a grand total of eight o-rings/gaskets. Sure, were talking about something like $10 in parts, but it beats the heck out of 5 gallons of unintentional, rootbeer-flavored Pilsener. I've been getting all my keg parts from Foxx Equipment Company, but I've heard recently they are not selling retail anymore... I've just called them and they said that they do still sell retail, but prefer to refer homebrewers to local or mailorder HB supply shops. Their Kansas City location number is 800-821-2254. ********************************* Spencer writes: >The fish tank ones don't have a wide enough range. I found some >reptile thermometer strips that go from about 50 to 100 (F), which is >fine for ales. I've alse seen ones apparently designed for brewing >with an even better range; maybe this is what Sheaf & Vine is selling? The ones sold by Sheaf & Vine have a range of 40F to 80F. I think that this range should be made a bit lower for lagers and a bit higher for ales. If your ambient is 75F, then I could easily see the fermentation driving the temperature above 80F. *********************************** Mark writes: >Am considering a Thanksgiving-type ale that would involve the addition of >some pumpkin pie spice (allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc.). My question(s) >is, has anyone tried this before, (i.e., dryhopping with this stuff)? >Should I do this after initial fermentation has terminated? Should I do >this in conjunction with some aromatic hops? If so, what kind and how >much? About how much of this pumpkin pie spice should be added for 5 If you add the spices directly to the brew, you will have to deal with the particles which won't dissolve. What I did was to soak the spices in vodka for two days and then strain the liquid through a coffee filter. I added this at bottling so I could adjust to taste. I don't have my records handy, so I can's say how much I used, but it was a lot more than I initially anticipated. Maybe if I had soaked the spices in the vodka longer, more flavor would have come out of them. I suggest making up a bunch of your own extracts and then adding them to an already carbonated beer of a similar recipe that you intend to use. Once you know how much you will need, you can go ahead and brew the batch and then either add the spice extracts on a per-bottle basis or on a batch basis. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 14:08 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Re: hazy beer/sparging/separating wort from hops/2-gauge regulators Bill writes: 1) I've had haze problems since I started mashing my own grains. Not chill haze, rather ther beer never clarifies properly. I know the most likely source is uncoverted starches. However, my mashes all passed the iodine test (sample taken from top of mash tun). Is there a better conversion test? Is there another possible source for this haze? It could be starch haze from too hot a sparge water -- unconverted starch can be liberated from the husks if the sparge water is a lot higher than 168F. This reminds me of an interesting point I read in Beer & Brewing Volume 8, from Dave Miller's talk. We all kind of know this, but then again we don't think about it this way usually. There are three stages in conversion: 1)gelatinization, 2)liquifaction and 3)saccharification. All three are occurring at the same time... some starch is being geletinized, which is then liquified by the Alpha-amylase and then saccharified by the Beta-amylase. Miller pointed out the danger of relying strictly on the iodine test because there could still be quite a bit of ungelatinized starch in the mash which would not be available to the iodine test. This is a common reason for low yield, in that a brewer will see a negative iodine test and mash out, leaving a lot of ungelatinized starch. 2) Sparging questions: a) How much recirculation. "Recirculate until runoff is clear". Sounds great in print. However, for amber or darker beers this is not as obvious as is sounds. In last batch I recirculated the first 5 qts. Is this excessive? Miller will say you can't recirculate too much (almost) but it depends on your setup. If you have a large underlet (dead space under the screen) you will have to recirculate more to set the filter bed. Some users of particular setups have reported an established filter bed after about a cup. For dark beers try a smaller vessel (like a test tube) for assessing clarity. b) When to stop sparging. "Don't over sparge". I like this about as much as "cook until done". The three techniques I know of are 1) sparge until running reach certain gravity (1.010?), 2) Sparge until pH is too high ( > 5.5?), 3) Sparge until boiler is full. Both Miller and Papazian give mash & sparge water quantities, but the last time I used these my final runnings were 1.020, seemed wasteful. It was wasteful. Actually 3 can be your limiting factor, but you can always boil down some of the wort and then add more runoff. 1 is the one I use, but if your water is alkaline, you can extract a lot of tannins as the pH rises. If you do have alkaline water, you should acidify your sparge water to make sure the pH does not get too high. Actually, you need less acidification when you start your sparge (because the grain lowers the pH of the mash) and more as later in the sparge (as the low pH wort runs out of the lauter tun). 3) Separating break material & spent hops from wort. When I siphon my cooled wort from the boiler into the fermenter, my siphon tube clogs leaving 1/2 to 1 gallon of wort/trub in the boiler. I usually pour the <snip> I use a hop bag for my boiling hops (whole AND pellet) and it reduces the amount of material at the bottom of the kettle significantly. I must note that I add 10% to Jackie Rager's formulas to compensate for the lower utilization I get when I use the hop bag. *************************** Tom writes: >closet). Now I have recently gone back to glass fermenters, 6.5 gallon >vice 5 gallon. I was wondering when light struck beer begins to be a >problem. <snip> You should keep the fermenter in the dark too -- your beer can be light-struck while in the fermenter. ******************************* Bryan writes: >Most of the kegging setups I've seen at shops have regulators on >the CO2 bottles with two "dials". What do the two dials read? Are >two necessary? I don't want to skimp on the regulator, but I don't >want to buy something unnecessary. I feel that a two-gauge regulator is unnecessary -- the low-pressure gauge shows you the pressure after the regulator (the keg side) and the high- pressure regulator shows you the high-pressure side (the tank side). However, the pressure in the tank is going to be pretty much 800psi until all the liquid CO2 has turned to gas -- then it will drop like a rock. No, the only way to know how much CO2 you have left is to weigh the tank. A 20# tank means that it will hold 20 pounds of CO2. Weigh the tank with the regulator and hoses when it is empty -- write this down (the tank will be stamped with it's empty weight, but taking off the regulator periodically is not a good idea -- mess with the fittings as little as you can). When you get it back from the filler, it should weigh 20# more (or 5# if it is a 5# tank, 10#, etc.). Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 9:13:40 MDT From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: acid bottles / CF chiller cleaning / ??? Corby asks how to treat his acid bottles before using them to brew. It reminds me of an old rhyme (the origin I do not know): The solution to pollution is dilution. The way I would treat the bottles: just add water. There should be no acid left "in the glass" when the bottle is emptied and rinsed. I might store the thing full of water for a day, empty, fill, and store for another day, to really rinse it well. Other than that I wouldn't worry. I found out something (that I already knew!) this past weekend. Dishwashing liquid (detergent?) is very corrosive to basic metals. I knew this because a few years ago I plumbed some iron gas pipe and did the standard "bubble" test on the threaded joints. These threads rusted within a day, although not enough to cause any problems. Well, I'm here to say that it works on copper even better! I wanted to do a great cleaning on my counterflow wort chiller before coiling it (just to make sure there was no machine oil or anything in it). I laid it out flat and snaked a wire into it. It only made it about halfway but I remembered someone on the net recommending using dishwashing liquid to lube it. The advantage, it was said, was that it was good for taking any oils out with it when it was rinsed. So I poured a good amount in the end of the copper tubing and was able to snake the wire all the way through the tubing. I then got distracted for a couple of hours and when I came back to pull some twine through, there was a _large_ amount of corrosion of the copper tubing already happening. I ended up pulling the twine through (with cotton balls and disposable cleaning rags) many many many times before getting the tubing really clean. The bulk of this work was getting that green sludge (some sort of copper oxide?) out of the tubing. I checked it by cutting off a couple of inches of the tubing and cutting it lengthwise. The tubing is now clean but I would do things differently next time. If I was to use dishwashing liquid, I'd make sure that I rinsed it out within the hour. Or, use something else. Another lesson learned... Patrick Weix and Chris Campanelli: Thanks for the FAQ's! Cheers, norm - -- Norm Pyle, Staff Engineer Head Brewer, Storage Technology Corporation Pyledriver Brewery, A Non-Profit Organization 2270 South 88th Street 1500 Elmhurst Drive Louisville, CO 80028-0211 Longmont, CO 80503-2323 (303) 673-8884 npyle at n33.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 13:00 CDT From: hplabs!mcdcup!tellabs.com!don (Don Leonard) Subject: Re: Freezers >I know that some people use a chest freezer with some type of >external thermostat to control the temperature. Has anyone >ever burned out the compressor of a chest freezer due to using >it in a way that it was not intended to be used? I'm not sure about your particular freezer but mine just has a normal refridg. compressor in it. As long as your temp. regulation device "short cycle" protection for the compressor, I don't think you are straining the hardware much more than normal use. A short cycle protection is nothing more than a timer that prevents the compressor from turning on until it has sat for a while. The time length is usually at least 4 min. but could be more. The reason you need to do this is to allow the high and low pressure sides to balance before starting the compressor. Not allowing the high side pressure to equalize puts excessive strain on the motor inside the compressor. >Does anyone >have any experience with older chest freezers say > 10 years >old. I worry that an older freezer may not have much life >left in it, but then again I think that it may also be built a >whole lot better than the new ones. Yep, I've got one thats at least 15 years old and it works great. The only problem with old fridges are that they are not really as energy efficient as the newer ones. > Another question, if the freezer >is fairly full with 30-40 gallons of brew at 45-50 degrees, does >the temperature stay fairly constant and require the compressor >to not kick on that often or a better way to phrase that is >Has anyone had their electric bill double or triple after >setting up a chest freezer beer cooler? > >Thanks - >Wally Well, I have noticed an increase in my electric bill but not the doubling that you refer to. Currently I have a lagering/serving fridge and a fermentation freezer. They are both at least 12 years old. don Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 93 17:07:12 -0400 From: <geotex at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Primary Fermetor question I just started using a blowoff tube on a glass carboy for my primary. It works great! I have a 1" diameter tube for the blowoff and my current batch blew out about 1 pint of liquid. My only question is: what should I do when I rack to the secondary? More specifically, now that the liquid level is lower than the neck, should I top it off when I rack? I want to minimize the air exposure, right? But I am NOT convinced that adding a pint of water at this stage would have not effect. Please respond by e-mail, I need to rack soon. Thanks Alex Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1993 17:35:08 -0400 (EDT) From: Kieran O'Connor <koconnor at mailbox.syr.edu> Subject: Fridge Costs Some folks have been wondering aobut fridge costs. Here's a neat way to figure that out. Most power companies offer free devices (you borrow, but can't keep) which will measure power consumption. The one I got is for educators (IM a teacher) and they mail it to you and you mail it bacj when done. The have other stuff too--all sorts of Science realted gizmos. The power company here that does it is NY State Electric and Gas (a public utility), but they sent it to me where I work which is not even in their service area. You put in the cost of your electricity/KW hour, then plug the fridge into it. It runs like a meter, but only when power is drawn through it, so its accurate for our usage. i used it once when it was set to 60--and I think it was like 3$/month--at $.11/KW/hour cost. Good luck. Kieran O'Connor E-Mail Address: koconnor at mailbox.syr.edu Syracuse, N.Y. USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 93 16:05:33 -0700 From: Drew Lynch <drew at chronologic.com> Subject: Re: regulator question The dial closest to the CO2 tank measures tank pressure, the other measures dispensing pressure. I have yet to empty my first 20lb cyinder, but I understand that for CO2, the first gauge moves very little if at all, until the tank is empty, then it drops like a stone. The best way to determine the remaining CO2 is to weigh the tank, and then subtract the tare (sp?) weight stamped into the metal near the neck of the tank. Only the dispensing gauge is necesary. Drew Lynch Chronologic Simulation, Los Altos, Ca. (415)965-3312 x18 drew at chronologic.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1993 16:28:26 -0400 From: Bill Flowers <waflowers at qnx.com> Subject: Re: Hard, high pH water treatment for new masher (HBD #1205) Almost a month ago I posted the original message requesting help. This is a long overdue "thank you" to all those who responded. Armed with your advice and a detailed lab report I was finally able to make sense of what Miller was saying. Unfortunately I haven't had an opportunity to apply what I've learned yet (too busy delivering on a contract), but over the next week I'll make up for it with 3 batches of beer I plan to start. :-) Once again, thanks to all. - --- W.A. (Bill) Flowers email: waflowers at qnx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. QUICS: bill (613) 591-0934 (data) (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1993 18:25:19 -0600 (CDT) From: jim at n5ial.mythical.com (Jim Graham) Subject: questions on making mead / suggestion re: exploding carboy First, a couple of questions regarding making mead. Then, a suggestion for the guy who had the carboy explode in the closet. After reading Papazian's comments on how good the stuff is, I'd like to try it out. Is brewing mead any different from brewing beer in a single-stage fermenter (I don't even own a carboy)? Is it basically going to be the normal approximately 7 days in the fermenter and then 15 days (minimum) aging in bottles? If not, how long should I expect it to take to ferment/age out? Also, how much is it likely to cost to brew? Is Sam's Wholesale Club most likely to be the best (i.e., cheapest) source for the honey? Or is there a less-expensive source? Is mead one of those things that, like champagne, is typically only for certain occasions? Or is it something that most people would just sit down and enjoy as they would any other homebrew? Does this matter? Do I care? Who knows..... I'm thinking about using the first mead recipe in TNCJoHB, which he calls ``Antipodal Mead (Traditional)''. Does anyone have any suggestions for a mead that might be a better one to start with? Or is this a good start? Btw, adding fruit isn't really much of an option right now, mainly for cost reasons (I'd have to buy the carboy as a secondary fermenter, plus buy the fresh fruit at a fruit stand or farmer's market somewhere, etc.). However, I'm certainly open for suggestions along this line, too---if nothing else, for future reference. > From: TAN1%SysEng%DCPP at cts27.comp.pge.com > Subject: Light struck beer (TAN1) > I have > been relagated to brewing outdoors since several years back I had a glass > carboy explode in my bedroom closet (The saddest day of my life - superbowl > stout exploded, taking out the carpet and most of the clothes in the > closet). Just a suggestion---why not wrap the carboy (whether it's outside or in your closet) in a blanket or something similar? When it's inside, it would at least keep the beer limited to making a mess on the floor, as opposed to trashing the floor, clothes, ceiling, etc.... When it's outside, it would help prevent the problem of exposure to light. Whether it's inside or outside, it would make it far less likely for someone to be hurt (or worse) by shrapnel..... I had a beer bottle explode once, and from that day on, I keep all beer bottles in either a case-box, in a cabinet, or under some sort of towel, blanket, etc., from the day the bottle is capped until it goes in the fridge. If another one explodes, I don't plan on cleaning up glass from all over the apartment (the one that blew sent glass *EVERYWHERE*---I'm just glad I wasn't home). Anyways, that's it for today (or probably next week, by the time this gets posted to the digest). Later, --jim - -- #include <std_disclaimer.h> 73 DE N5IAL (/4) - --------------------------< Running Linux 0.99 PL9 >-------------------------- INTERNET: jim at n5ial.mythical.com | j.graham at ieee.org ICBM: 30.23N 86.32W AMATEUR RADIO: (packet station temporarily offline) AMTOR SELCAL: NIAL - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ E-mail me for information about KAMterm (host mode for Kantronics TNCs). Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1222, 09/09/93