HOMEBREW Digest #1265 Sat 06 November 1993

Digest #1264 Digest #1266

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Plans for Grain Mill (Steve Seaney)
  Hunter Airstat (Bob_McIlvaine)
  water adjustment questions (c-amb)
  Chilling Out, Hops, Brass (Jack Schmidling)
  All-Grain FAQ??? (thomask)
  replies and such from a newneophyte (Mark Bunster)
  Re: cost-effecient brew (REGINAH)
  patio hop growing (Al Lingley)
  RE:Post boil wort handling (Michael Berger)
  rice, the other light grain (Paul Boor)
  Is Pale, Pale?/Pils malt-based extract (korz)
  What's wrong with white hoses? ("Mark B. Alston")
  AAU, IBU, and published numbers (Ed Hitchcock)
  Cutting hop vines  (Jim Busch)
  Airplane Pressure and Beer (Jeff Berton)
  Steam injection (one more time) (WESTEMEIER)
  Brewery Liturature (robl)
  how I sparge (Rick Larson)
  Re: Another immersion chiller (Ed Hitchcock)
  Too long a fermentation time.?.. ("Richard J. Niziak")
  easy wort chilling method (Michael T. Lobo)
  remove obrien at aa_macmail.aa.ab.com (Dave(PD) Heller)
  Eisbocks legal (Scott Stihler (USGS analyst))
  Clubs (Kieran O'Connor)
  Cider (Eric Saidel)
  Rye and Spruce (Darren Aaberge)
  College brewers (esonn1)
  help (Kenneth Wagner)
  Re: diastatic malt powder/ (BIO)" <tillman at chuma.cas.usf.edu>
  Convert to all-grain? (Steven Tollefsrud)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1993 11:32:26 -0600 (CST) From: Steve Seaney <seaney at ie.engr.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Plans for Grain Mill - ----- Dion Writes: I feel that Steve made light of Jack's efforts because he complained about the cost and said right after that he could do a good without much effort (this is a paraphrase). A lot of other people complain about the retail prices of equipment like Jack's and state that they could do as good for a lot less. I was just pointing out why retail prices are generally extremely fair and what really goes into making a product, rather than a one-off copy of someone's design. If you make it yourself and it does not last or does not work quite up to snuff, then you generally don't complain. Jack and other inventors have to make a product which works well and last, which most of them do. - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Jack's mill is a nice piece of work. My complaint about the cost doesn't counter the craftsmanship of the work. Jack however is making a profit in this mill. There's nothing wrong with profit -- if you want to pay the price. Most of the cost associated with the mill is in labor. The mill can be made much cheaper if you use your own time as labor. Furthermore, if you enjoy making things, the labor can be fun -- hence enjoyment becomes another reason to build the mill. Jack's mill is nice, it's not the end all however. I'm sure we can put together another mill that will be better in some respects -- perhaps one of these respects will be manufacturability with a minimum number of tools. I have never intended to copy Jack's design, I would rather try to devise a mill that can be built with largely existing hardware. It would be nice if anyone could build it -- even w/o access to a decent mill and lathe. Then people will copy, improve, copy, improve, ad infinitum. It's always easy to build something with all the tools you need. I've always respected people who do things on a shoe string budget more then ones that do it by throwing money at it. People have been mechanically grinding grain since the 1400's (at least). I don't think they had stainless and carbide. Finally, Jack's mill isn't an invention, it's a craft. There's nothing that special or unique to it. It's simply a good piece of work. I really don't understand Dion's hangup on building a mill. Please go throw water on someone else's parade. We are having fun over here. I am still collecting ideas for parts of the mill. If there are any interesting ideas for the rollers I'd appreciate a note. It'd be nice to use parts that are available at hardware stores, etc. Thanks, Steve - -- Steve Seaney: 608/265-3954: seaney at engr.wisc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 93 13:35:57 EST From: Bob_McIlvaine at keyfile.com Subject: Hunter Airstat The Hunter Airstat is a relatively simple electronic device. It has some nice facilities which monitor the on time for the current day, previous day, and total usage as well as maintaining the the temperature. It also has a digital display for the temperature. And as noted previously in these tombs, has been discontinued. The plans for a similar device are available for $10 from JB Distributing. The plans show the details of a device which will control your fridge temp as set by the owner. It doesn't have the nifty display and monitoring features. JB Distributing says the circuit boards for this design will be available soon and they have the plans for a more advanced model on the drawing boards. They also have plans and circuit boards for other items like a digital brewers thermometer with a 30" probe (great for deep vessels of hot stuff). For more details contact: JB Distributing 123 SilverLake Rd. Hollis, NH 03049 603-465-7633 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1993 10:44:00 -0700 From: c-amb at csc-sun.math.utah.edu Subject: water adjustment questions I have been going over my water analysis and Dave Miller's book to figure out what water adjustments I am going to need before my first all grain. However, Dave leaves out some quantitative information which I seem to need. First let me give you the important numbers (3 year average): Bicarbonate 251 ppm Calcium 43 ppm Sodium 5 ppm Sulfate 12 ppm Magnesium 17 ppm Now, as you can see, the bicarb level is quite high. Moreover, there is not enough calcium to simply boil off the bicarbs. Thus, using Dave's formulas I have calculated that I would need to add approx 2 tsp. of gypsum for 5 gal. of water prior to boiling in order to remove the excess bicarbonate. This will also raise the sulfate level to 292 ppm and this is where I start to get nervous. Dave says that excess sulfate will add a dry edge to well hopped beers. Sulfate combined with sodium makes this quite harsh he tells me. This makes the hophead in me quite nervous. However, how much is too much? Because of my low sodium level am I o.k. with this high level of sulfates? Any info or pointers are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Mark Alston c-amb at math.utah.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 93 11:53 CST From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Chilling Out, Hops, Brass I decided to scrap my original responses to the ad hominem comments on my remarks about chillers and try something completely different. Not only do I have strong feelings about chillers but I also think the net.sense.of.humor needs a little thrashing. I sold my business and retired at age forty because I got tired of kissing the world's behind and making sure that nothing I ever said offended anyone, anywhere on Earth. I make beer and beer stuff and participate in these discussions because it is fun and mutually informative. When things get boring, I inject a little fun but everybody has their own idea of what fun is. If people do not like my humor, that's life and I accept it. The fact that I refuse to use these things .... :) is part of the fun because baiting the humor impaired is right up there with sex as far as I am concerned. It might even be as much fun as "beer drinks". I find that using expressions like "the Lighthouse of Wisdom and Truth" and the "World's Greatest Beer" is a great way to bring the real weenies out of the closet. I have little sympathy for people who take them seriously. I will bite my lip (fingers) and keep my responses non-personal and offer the following summary of the current comments that are worth repeating: 1. If the claims of efficiency are correct, water conservation is a good argument in defense of the C/F chiller. 2. A KB type HOP BACK (tm) will only work properly with a C/F chiller but it remains to be proven that it offers any advantage over a immersion chiller with a tight fitting lid. End of list. No one even claimed that they make clearer beer this time. I refer readers to my previous comments for the counter arguments in favor of the immersion chiller. >From: ed fromohio <NEGATIVE3 at unh.edu >Subject: Bread from mash recipe request >HI, I was wondering if anyone has a recipe or idea for bread from the spent mash.... BEER BREAD 3 cups spent grain (wet) 1 cup flour 1 cup warm water 1 tsp yeast 1/4 cup sugar Mix and let ferment in warm place for several hours or overnight. Add 1 tsp salt and nead in or mix flour, one cup at a time, until the dough will not stick to the fingers. This will take about 5 additional cups, the amount depending on the water content of the grain. Then continue to nead or mix until a silky texture that does not stick to fingers is achieved. Let the dough rise (covered) in a warm place for at least an hour or till it doubles in volume. Then form into loaves and let rise again. When doubled in volume, bake at 375 for 25 min. I roll the dough into bars about 2" in diameter and about 10" long and just lay them on a baking sheet. If you bake full size loaves in bread pans, the baking time would probably be longer. ............ Since getting a Corona, I now dry the spent grain and grind it up with the Corona to get a more acceptable texture. One cup dry and three cups water works out for the above recepie. >From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> >I read in Brewing Techniques that if the vines are allowed to remain uncut at the end of the season, the rootstock will build up energy stores for the upcoming winter season, and be healthier next year. This is obviously not practical for big farms, but due to my inherent procrastination, it is exactly how my plants are now. Comments? No comments here, just the ULTIMATE TRUTH.... From the plant's point of view, it is best to allow it to grow until it goes dorment. The root stock continues to develop as long as photosynthesis is going on. Once it goes dorment or freezes, the vines are dead and it makes no difference what you do with them. There are practical and economic reasons for cutting them earlier but it does compromise overall vigor. >From: npyle at n33.stortek.com >Subject: Brass in the boil >A week ago, Andrew asked about brass in the boil. I have a brass fitting inside of my boiler as well, so I'm also curious to hear the answer. Not sure what the question was but as the use of copper seems to be accepted since time time immemorial, the question ought to be the safety of using zinc in a boiler. Zinc is a useful suplement both for humans and yeast so I guess we can assume that brass is also. js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1993 10:21:26 -0800 From: thomask at ichips.intel.com Subject: All-Grain FAQ??? With the recent proliferation of FAQ's, I've been wondering about a similar resource for grains. What I'm most interested in is some sort of comparative listing of the characteristics of various grains. Color, enzymes, and especially flavor/body profiles like those recently provided for hop varieties. Also interesting would be some sort of interaction guide, noting interesting or perhaps traditional mixes which achieve certain common goals in mashing. Does anybody know a good book for this? Seems like the really excellent technical guides all focus on a single variety of beer, which is too restrictive (especially when I tend to throw style guides to the winds and INVENT)... thomask at ichips.intel.com at cs.washington.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1993 12:54:58 -0500 (EST) From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: Gott cooler fitting An easy way to modify a Gott cooler is to remove the spigot, replace it with a rubber stopper with a hole in the center. Place a glass. metal or plastic tube through the center an attach the the valve you want to use with a length of plastic tubing. I've done this to make a copper coiled mash tun, and it is much superior to the 2 bucket method. Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 93 13:32:26 EST From: Mark Bunster <mbunster at hibbs.vcu.edu> Subject: replies and such from a newneophyte Hello all- maiden post. Excellent digest so far. Packed full of 411... replies first: *Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1993 09:23:05 -0400 (EDT) *From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov *Subject: airlines, porter, brewbup, Sheath and Vine * *Just a few interesting tidbits: *Yesterday my wife tried to take 4 homebrews on American airlines *out of Raleigh-Durham and was stopped at security. Although the *bottles were capped, since they had no label she was not allowed to bring *them into the passenger cabin. They said they could be stowed in the luggage * but we declined, fearing depressurization problems. My family's experience with transporting beers has been much smoother. Ah, but of course they were labeled. If yer gonna take them, slap a commercial label on it just to get it on the plane (in the plane.) I do, however, recall at least one occassion where bee> r> s were stowed in luggage on a transcontinental flight (smuggled much Maisel's) with no ill effects. Just luck I ask the faithful? What say yinz? * Re: Swan V. Taylor's request for info on brewpubs in the Chapel * Hill area. There are none in Chapel Hill, one in Raleigh (Greenshields), * and one in the Winston-Salem area (Lagerhead or Loggerhead?) that I know * of. the one in Durham (aka:Weeping Radish,etc.) bit the big one! * Bummer. So far Weeping Radish is the ony place I've been to in the states that serves by the liter krug. (Then again, the MidAtlantic is lame for good drinking establishments.) As far as I know, the one in Manteo, NC is still open (Manteo is on the Outer Banks, across the sound from Nags Head/Kill Devil Hills). Really good German style drafts, darts, German pub grub, etc. A great diversion while at the beach, and a beautiful drive across the sound if you do it at sunset. Neophyte's question, if not adequately covered in the FAQ: what is the benefit of mashing, what's> > generally involved, and what distinguishes a mash-out from a normal mash? And does anyone else do much substitution of honey for other priming agents? In small quantities, it's wonderful! Even in large quantities it's really good, but you get a really sweet beer, one that bears little resemblance to what the indians called, uh, beer. -- Mark Bunster |Exchange conversation if you dare-- Survey Research Lab--VCU |Share an empty thought or a laugh. Richmond, VA 23220 | mbunster at hibbs.vcu.edu | (804) 367-8813/353-1731 | -edFROM Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1993 13:50:56 EST5EDT From: REGINAH at SOCIOLOGY.Lan.McGill.CA Subject: Re: cost-effecient brew To all you fortunate folks south of the border-- Brewing may not be less expensive than store-bought for you, but up here in the land of excessive luxury tax you can make your own far superior brew for half the cost of commercial beer. Hard to see why anyone in their right mind still buys commercial-- they must put mind altering chemicals in it. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1993 13:58:41 From: axl at cherry-semi.com (Al Lingley) Subject: patio hop growing I live in a condo style apartment and have had limited success growing hops on my deck. I used a 1x3x1 planter box and ran twine up to my bedroom window one story up. I would recommend using larger planter box, as I feel my plants are now root bound. I planted hallertauer which I have been told is a lower yielding variety. The first year netted a few shoots about 7 feet in length, due to my planting late in the spring. Year 2 (this year) netted many 20 ft. vines and about 3 ounces of dried hops. My low yield was mainly due to Japanese beatle infestation. About the only advice I can give is to water daily (soaking), and shake those vines at least once a day (beatles). I fertilized about every 2 weeks with Miracle Grow. Al Lingley axl at cherry-semi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 93 14:14:16 EST From: mberger at wellfleet.com (Michael Berger) Subject: RE:Post boil wort handling My thanks to all those who replied to my recent posting of questions regarding the handling of the post-boil wort and the off-flavors that can come of it. The answers were essentially unanimous and I have summarized the recommendations below. After the boil is complete, the wort should be chilled using your favorite chilling technique. The hot wort should be exposed to air as little as possible in order to avoid the dreaded HSA (hot side aeration). HSA is a common cause of a "cardboard-like" off-flavor. A rapid chilling of the wort also reduces the risk of bacterial "action" that could cause other off-flavors. After chilling is complete, the wort should be racked into the primary using a racking tube with a "copper scrubby" on the end to filter out hops and other solids in the boiler. At this time, the *chilled* wort should be aerated. The primary should be a carboy instead of an open plastic bucket. You can set up the carboy as a "blow-off/by" for the primary. Your chilling method should have brought the wort temperature down to pitching temp so you should immediately pitch your starter. Thanx again. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1993 13:28:03 -0500 (CDT) From: Paul Boor <PBOOR at BEACH.UTMB.EDU> Subject: rice, the other light grain Rice has been mentioned recently as a way to emulate "your bud". I advocate the use of rice in allgrain brews of all lighter type, and have used it lighten porters. It's not just for yaller-beers. Good rice, like Indian Basmati, has a nice aroma as well. I use a half to a pound, cooked well and added to the mash with the regular grain bill. the amazing thing ishow it lowers the finishing gravity, like down around 1005 for a beer that might be expected to be 1015. Rice is used by many commercial brewers, my favorite being The Utica Club Brewery in Utica NY, makers of such greats asSaranac Adirondack Lager. Try their beer if you get to upstate New York. The brewery has also done some nice contract brews in the past, jumpstarting such beers as New Amsterdam and Sam Adams (yes! the boston lager was orginally made in NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 93 14:42 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Is Pale, Pale?/Pils malt-based extract Ed writes: >As a full mash novice I want to stay with simple infusion mashes for >a while. What kind of grain does this mean I am restricted to. >I used Pale (2-row english). The day after I went to another >brew store and they had two Pales(2-row from Germany and from America). >Pale is Pale??? <snip> >Will it be as modified as the english Pale? Is it an oversimplification >to say Pale == you can do an infusion? I was reading Miller last >night and he explains the difference between Pale, Mild, Vienna, Munich, >Lager, Klages etc.. But what I want to know is, what can I infusion mash >as a base grain for recipe (obviously not specialty grains and adjuncts). >Pale is Pale??? No adjuncts used currently, so I don't need extra enzymes. >Describe how to tell if grain is good? Miller goes into it some (or was it >Noonan?), but what do you look for? When you say "simple infusion mashes" you probably mean "mashes with no protein rest," right? You can do this with infusion mashing (raising the temperatures with INFUSIONS of boiling water) or "stovetop" mashing (raising the temp with a heat source. Whether or not you need a protein rest is dependent on how well modified the malt is. Most modern malts that we get in the stores are well-modified. Perhaps some of the custom malts that A-B or Miller or Coors use are less modified, but we certainly won't be getting any of that stuff normally. You can tell how well modified a malt is by looking at how long the acrospire has grown (I believe it was Noonan that described this in detail). What you do is rub off the husk on the acrospire side of the grain and compare the length of the acrospire with the length of the whole kernel. If the acrospire is 3/4 of the kernel length or more, then the malt is fully modified. If it is significantly less than 3/4 of the kernel length, then the malt is less- than-fully-modified. You need to do this on a couple of kernels and consider the average length. Also, as you probably already know, more highly kilned malts (like Munich malt) have less remaining enzymes than the less kilned malts (like Pilsner malt).. Malts like DeWolf-Cosyns Aromatic is reported to be able to convert itself despite being a highly-kilned malt, whereas I believe that DWC Biscuit is not able to convert itself. ******************************* Andy writes: extract brewing as well as all-grain. The problem: the all-grain version will require pilsner malt and the extracts I've been able to find (DME & LME [No, not Male extract]) are all based on Pale Malt. Does anyone out there in HBD-land know of Pilsner Malt extracts that are Unhopped and (hopefully) no adjuncts? I think your best bet is perhaps might be Alexander's Malt Extract. It and Munton & Fison Extra Pale are the two lightest extracts that I know of. The difference between the flavor of Pale and Pilsner malts is really just that the Pale malts tend to have a bit of caramel (just a bit) in the flavor, thanks to the higher kilning temperatures. I would suspect that these two really pale malt extracts will have used the palest malts the manufacturers had available. M&F is in England, so maybe the Alexanders may be the most Pilsner-like of the two. Another consideration may be to use German extracts such as Ireks Bavarian Light or Bierkeller Light, which are probably made from Pilsner malt. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 93 14:07:12 MST From: "Mark B. Alston" <c-amb at math.utah.edu> Subject: What's wrong with white hoses? I am always seeing warnings about soaking hoses in a bleach solution for too long of a period of time. These warnings are always in regards to the hoses turning chalky white. Well, this in itself does not seem like such a problem. I am not too concerned with the aesthetic problems of white hoses :) So, is there another concern that is behind these warnings? What is the problem with white hoses? Thanks, Mark Alston c-amb at math.utah.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1993 18:42:31 -0400 From: Ed Hitchcock <ECH at ac.dal.ca> Subject: AAU, IBU, and published numbers I've been getting lots of use out of the hops FAQ, but I am left with a nagging question. I was trying to follow Pierre Rajotte's belgian ale recipes, but when using the formulae from the hops FAQ the numbers seem way off. For example, one recipe calls for 7 HBU's or 22 IBU's of hops. Another calls for 10 HBU's or 30 IBU's. Now even being super conservative, I get 10 HBU's is roughly equal to 38 IBU's. That's over 25% more! And using the equations unmodified, 10 HBU's is in the range of 48 IBU's, or 60% more. What gives? Just so you can frustrate yourselves too, here are the (simplified) equations I've been using: %Util = 13.11 + 13.86 * TANH((T-31.32)/18.23) IBU's = %Util * %AA * Qty / Vol / 10 Where: T is time in minutes, %Util is in percentages (ie 0-100, not 0-1) %AA is the alpha acid content in percentages Qty is the quantity of hops in grams Vol is the volume of wort in Litres TANH(x) = (e^x - e^(-x))/(e^x + e^(-x)), e being the mathematical constant epsilon, roughly 2.71828 Note the 13.11 value in %Util, versus the 18.11 value in the hops FAQ. This is to convert to the modified utilization table presented by Mark Garetz. ____________ Ed Hitchcock ech at ac.dal.ca | Oxymoron: Draft beer in bottles. | Anatomy & Neurobiology | Pleonasm: Draft beer on tap. | Dalhousie University, Halifax |___________________________________| Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1993 18:03:04 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Cutting hop vines Since I posted a question regarding hop vines/harvesting and the merits of cutting the vines at harvest, I received this excellent summary the issues. I found it interesting, hopefully you will too. Jim Busch > Date: Wed, 03 Nov 93 10:52:27 CST > From: "Edward F. Loewenstein" <SNREDLOW at MIZZOU1.missouri.edu> > Subject: Cutting hop vines Jim, Just read your posting on the homebrew net and hope I can be of some help. Commercial growers of hops mechanically harvest their hops by cutting the vines off at ground line when the hops are ripe and separate the cones from the vines via a machine similar to a cotton gin. Of course some of the cones are a bit overripe, some underripe, but some allowances must be made for mechanization. By picking the cones by hand, as most homegrowers do, you can pick all of the cones when they are ripe. Further, I have found that many hop varieties (Cluster, Nugget and Pearle) produce additional flushes of flowers following initial harvest. Concerning leaving the vines in place after the end of the season. indeed, leaving the vines after picking the cones (while the leaves are still green) does allow the hop plant to produce and store extra carbohydrates in the root system for the following year. Once the plant scenesces (leaves and vine turn brown), no additional benefit is derived. At this time, or shortly thereafter, it is wise to cut the vines and clean-up any fallen hop leaves from the area. The reason for this is that fungal organisms overwinter in and on the dead plant material and if left can infect/reinfect your plants the next growing season. Typically, downy and powdery mildew and verticilium wilt will follow this life cycle. Insect larvae such as aphids can also overwinter in infected dead plant tissue. I try to remove all hop leaves to my compost pile (located well away from my hop mounds), or if I have had a problem with an infection, burn any infected material (downwind from the mounds). I also use the dead vines to weave wreaths for Christmas decorations. My wife decorates these with dried flower arrangements. I've also heard of people selling these wreaths to craft stores. Hope this helps. Ed Loewenstein SNREDLOW at mizzou1.missouri.edu Department of Forestry Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1993 18:58:02 -0500 From: jeff344 at voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov (Jeff Berton) Subject: Airplane Pressure and Beer Andy writes: > Yesterday my wife tried to take 4 homebrews on American airlines > out of Raleigh-Durham and was stopped at security. Although the > bottles were capped, since they had no label she was not allowed to bring > them into the passenger cabin. They said they could be stowed in the luggage > but we declined, fearing depressurization problems. The cargo bay and passenger cabins of commercial aircraft are both pressurized and heated. From a structural point of view, with pressure differentials dominating fuselage design, it's easier to pressurize everything between the forward and aft pressure bulkheads, the cargo bay included. (Bombers' bomb bays, by the way, which must be able to open at altitude, have all sorts of additional fuselage pressure structure that is unnecessary on commercial aircraft.) At cruising altitudes on commercial airplanes, this cabin/cargo pressure is maintained at about 11 psi; that which you'd experience at about 8000 feet altitude. So, during the flight, an additional 4 psi would be added to the pressure differential already experienced by your bottle of homebrew (If more cabin depressurization occurs, you probably won't be worrying about your homebrew!). That's not too large an additional load, considering that a modestly-primed bottle of homebrew is already experiencing a pressure differential of about 20 psi at sea level (This is according to my back-of-the-envelope priming sugar calculation - maybe someone can verify?). So, taking your homebrew on an airplane, either in the cargo hold or as carry-on luggage, shouldn't cause the bottle to blow unless you're already operating on the ragged edge of your bottle cap's safety factor! Given a choice, I'd opt for carry-on luggage, since baggage handlers sometimes lack that delicate touch. - -- Jeff Berton, Aeropropulsion Analysis Office, NASA Lewis Research Center jeff344 at voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1993 19:05:03 -0400 (EDT) From: WESTEMEIER at delphi.com Subject: Steam injection (one more time) Boy, am I sorry I ever mentioned this. Please everyone, calm down and react to what you read, not what you _think_ you read. I know that high pressure steam is dangerous. That's why I specifically stated that this was low pressure steam. The 15 psi or less put out by a home pressure cooker is slightly dangerous, but only if it comes in contact with you or material that can't handle the temperature. I know that modifying a pressure cooker's safety release valve is dangerous. That's why I specifically stated that we didn't modify it (that little valve with the weight on it is not in the center of this particular model. Dan Listermann, who built this gadget, is still kinda computer-shy, so he can't handle direct contact yet. He 's beginning to get the hang of Compu$pend, but isn't quite up to e-mail yet. That's why he asked me to post the original question here, as to whether anyone else had ever tried this technique. It appears that he's the first. OK, back to the drawing board, and he's working on a second version that will incorporate some more safeguards and be less prone to misuse. The fact remains though, that the initial attempt worked superbly when used with care! - -- Ed Westemeier Cincinnati, Ohio westemeier at delphi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1993 19:07:38 -0800 From: robl <ROBL at outside.com> Subject: Brewery Liturature I'm interested in reading about the breweries that were around in the pre- and post prohibition area in the United States. Speciffically historical accounts of Brewery size, specialty, even examples of their logos/labels. I'm rather new to this group (this is my first posting :-) and I'm not sure if this topic was ever previously discussed, or in the archives. I'm looking for any titles of books or articles. Thanks group! ================ Robert Linder Crystal Point Inc phone 206-487-3656 fax 206-487-3773 ================ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 93 21:55:44 CST From: rick at adc.com (Rick Larson) Subject: how I sparge Ed asks about sparging: > What is the best way to sparge. Welcome to the world of all grain brewing! Here is how I sparge (68qt cooler/copper manifold) (sorry about the steps :-). It may not be the best way, but I works for me. 1. Underlet mash with sparge water. I connect my hot liquor tank to the manifold outlet and fill the cooler to the brim. This will help raise the mash temp to mash out. 2. Add specialty grains if used. 3. Stir the mash for even temps. 4. Let sit for 15 minutes. 5. Connect pipe from cooler to brew kettle and draw off about 1 quart. I don't recirculate until clear but enough to remove the *big* chunks. 6. Carefully pour the quart on the top of the mash water. 7. Slowly drain sparge water into brew kettle. 8. I repeat steps 1-7 until I use all my sparge water or the gravity gets below 4P (about 1.020). I find underletting the sparge water will help reduce HSA. Bob Jones and Micah Millspaw recommend underletting the mash for better beer stability in last winters Zymurgy and Norm Pyle restates Bob and Micah's article a recent digest. The batch sparge is very easy and helps when I have other things going on (like wife, kids, house...). This was recommended by several other brewers in this digest. Letting the mash sit for a bit (I use about 15 minutes) help settle the grain bed. Chilling out with my counter-flow chiller, rick Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1993 08:07:22 -0400 From: Ed Hitchcock <ECH at ac.dal.ca> Subject: Re: Another immersion chiller Steven Smith mentioned his 'hang from the edge of the pot' chiller, which sounds pretty cool. I would like to toot my horn once more and promote the joys of the planispiral chiller. It's a flat coil (like and electric stove burner) of 25' of 1/4" OD copper tubing, the last (outer) coil descends to the bottom of the pot as a support, and the in/out tubes hang over the side also for support. The disc/coil is suspended an inch or two below the surface. The cooled wort drops to the bottom, warm wort rises up the sides. I've never had to stir my wort to get it to chill properly, the convection currents are sufficient. ____________ Ed Hitchcock ech at ac.dal.ca | Oxymoron: Draft beer in bottles. | Anatomy & Neurobiology | Pleonasm: Draft beer on tap. | Dalhousie University, Halifax |___________________________________| Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1993 07:00:03 -0500 (EST) From: "Richard J. Niziak" <rickn at copley.com> Subject: Too long a fermentation time.?.. At the end of September, I made a batch of Ocktoberfest and placed the work, etc into the carboy for fermentation. I have been extremely busy since than and haven't yet had the time to bottle it.. Could someone tell me what problems I could run into when I get around to bottling this weekend ??? Like all the yeast is dead and I won't get any carbonation, or the beer is overly fermented..?? And hopefully some answers to fix those problems... Thanks in advance, ########################################################################## + Richard J. Niziak + Senior Systems Engineer + e:mail -> rickn at copley.com Copley Systems + land mail -> Copley Systems, Inc + 165 University Ave + Westwood, MA 02090 + voice mail -> (617)320-8300 x305 + ########################################################################## Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 93 08:13:48 EST From: mlobo at sentry.foxboro.com (Michael T. Lobo) Subject: easy wort chilling method Greetings: After reading todays HBD, I figured I'd put in my 2 cents worth regarding wort chilling. I take the KISS approach ( keep it simple, stupid ) After my boil, I take the 20 qt pot and stick the whole thing into my bathtub full of cold water ( my cold water is VERY cold ). I keep the lid on and in about 30-40 minutes the temp is down to pitching temp & all I do then is transfer to the primary, pitch the yeast and have a home brew {:^) regards, Michael Michael T. Lobo 508 549 2487 Foxboro Co. mlobo at foxboro.com "I Love beer, beer loves me; when I drink too much, my beer speaks for me" -Monty Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 93 09:42:26 EST From: hellerpd at brutus.aa.ab.com (Dave(PD) Heller) Subject: remove obrien at aa_macmail.aa.ab.com Please remove all "obrien at aa.ab.com" or "obrien at aa_macmail.aa.ab.com" from your mailing list. It is a disabled account (for the last year) and the monthly digests bounce around our mail queue as the automatic return fails on the "reply-to" address. P.D. Heller Allen Bradley Ann Arbor, MI 48103 hellerpd at aa.ab.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1993 22:32:04 -0900 From: scott at fm.gi.alaska.edu (Scott Stihler (USGS analyst)) Subject: Eisbocks legal I've discovered some interesting information regarding the legalities of making eisbocks. There has been some question as to the legality of making an eisbock since it does involve a form of distillation. Well, a friend of mine who is in the process of opening a microbrewery (Ravens Ridge) here in Fairbanks had an opportunity to talk to somebody with the BATF. According to this person the amount of alcohol concentrated would be insuffient to, in their books, be considered distillation. Therefore, it is legal for homebrewers to brew eis- bocks. Now you can brew relaxed, not worried and guilt free. Cheers, Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1993 11:23:50 -0500 (EST) From: Kieran O'Connor <koconnor at mailbox.syr.edu> Subject: Clubs A note aobut clubs. I recently moved and have been helping ro re-energize our club in Syracuse, NY. it seems that the way to go is definitley to plan out in advance what will happen at each meeting. We are trying to have an educational aspect, then perhaps a tasting, and then the socializing part. These events are planned out 6 months in advance, and put in the newsletter for long range planning Also, try toget free advertizing. The local newspaper and the local weekly put in free ads. Also, the palce we meet, Clark's Ale House, pays for 1/2 of any fylers, etc which have his name on it (as the meeting place). One otherthought we got form the AHA annual book--we made busniness cards with our name and meeting place--they are in the brew shops and beer reatilers. People can pick them up as a reminder for the meeting. They're cheap--about 20$/500. Kieran O'Connor E-Mail Address: koconnor at mailbox.syr.edu Syracuse, N.Y. USA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Nov 93 10:50 CDT From: Eric Saidel <SAIDEL at macc.wisc.edu> Subject: Cider Coyote suggests a few ways to get apples/and pressing cheap - here's another: if there are orchards in your area there are certainly *abandoned* orchards in your area - these offer a bit more challenge, but lots of apples - for free (or almost, usually the owners are happy if you give them a coupld of gallons of your sweet cider). The advantages - this greatly reduces your price to the price of pressing (it costs us 60 cents a gallon - for something like 140 gallons this year). And you get more variety - in my experience it's the variety that makes for good cider. - eric saidel Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 93 08:57:26 PST From: dra at jsc-ws.sharpwa.com (Darren Aaberge) Subject: Rye and Spruce The last issue of Brewing Techniques has an article about using rye in beer. Basically it sounds like you use rye as you would use wheat in a wheat beer. This article has made me curious about using rye and I was wondering if anyone has tried it. If so, what`s it like? Is it like wheat beer or is it totally different. The article gave the following recipe: 8 lbs pale malt 4 lbs rye malt 1/2 oz Centennial (bittering) 3/4 oz Northern Brewer (finish) 1/2 oz Centennial (finish) 2 tsp Irish Moss Wyeast 1056 Has anyone tried this recipe? Does anyone know of a source of malted rye? I checked my local homebrew shop (Steinbart's in Portland, Oregon), they didn't have malted rye but they did have flaked rye. Regarding the recent thread on spruce beer, I have brewed spruce beer using fresh growths off of a spruce tree. The flavor you get from it does not remotely resemble pine-sol. From reading recent posts it sounds like the people who are using spruce essence are the ones with bad experiences. Maybe this says more about the quality of spruce essence than the flavor of spruce beer. Darren Aaberge Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1993 14:01:42 -0500 From: esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu Subject: College brewers Hola, As a college student I've noticed quite a few student brewers on campus here (Swarthmore College) and I wondered how many of the people in HBD land are student brewers. Considering the stereotype of college beer consumption is keg stands and funneling, it would be interesting to talk with students who actually drink good (home)brew rather than whatever's on special. I've seen _many_ addresses on postings from colleges and universities, but it seems most of the postings are written by people a bit older than the average college student. If you're a student brewer, drop me a line via direct e-mail. I hope to do a features type article on college brewers and sell it to a newspaper or two. Eugene esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1993 13:08:52 -0600 (CST) From: Kenneth Wagner <WAGNER at LUB001.LAMAR.EDU> Subject: help Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1993 15:52:28 -0500 (EST) From: "Tim Tillman (BIO)" <tillman at chuma.cas.usf.edu> Subject: Re: diastatic malt powder/ In HBD #1263 Jill Martz asks... >We are relativey new at homebrewing and I was wondering if anyone could >tell me about diastatic malt powder. Diastatic Malt Extract is an extract with the ability to hydrolyze starches into simple sugars. This is what the enzymes in malted grains do during the mash cycle of all grain brewing. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 93 14:36:48 +0100 From: steve_t at fleurie.inria.fr (Steven Tollefsrud) Subject: Convert to all-grain? I've been brewing with extract (usually Munton) on and off for about 6 years. I started with Williams Brewkits when I lived in Phoenix, then quit for about 3 years when I lived in Munich, Germany (seemed a bit pointless because the beer there is cheaper than water and I was "researching" the beers, the breweries, and the biergartens, leaving no time for even extract brewing). My brewing stuff collected dust in a german keller for three years. Then I moved to the south of France a couple of years ago and found myself in a relative beer desert (well, Munich would be a tough act to follow no matter where I moved). So I dusted off my fermenter and brewkettle, hunted down the address of a homebrew supply shop in the UK and picked up where I'd left off in Phoenix. I started with some basic IPAs and Steam beers, and started experimenting with various grains and yeast types. The results were surprisingly well received by the French natives (a discriminating people, especially in matters of the palate). This was very encouraging. A colleague at work turned me on to the internet and HBD about a year ago. I tuned in just about the time of Jack Smegmling's [sp?] holier than thou pronouncements along the lines that extract brewers are ignorant, lazy, and not worthy to share the same bandwidth with real brewers (all-grain). This was very encouraging/. Even while I put in a couple of cents in defense of extract brewing, I knew, deep down in my heart, that I would eventually move on to all-grain brewing myself: the more I learned about brewing, the more fascinated I became. My only reservations are: 1) Cost of grain: Homebrewing is unheard of in France. I have to have my extract shipped from England. As I'm paying shipping costs for 8-10 lbs of extract per 5 gal. it can add up. How much grain is required to make 5 gallons of all-grain (say OG 1050) and what is the typical cost of the grain ($ or Brit. lbs)? 2) Time: One excuse I've always used for not brewing all-grain is that it is very time intensive. I'm repelled by the image of slaving for hours over a steaming kettle, though I never knew how much time is really necessary to do all-grain brew. With a feisty two year old running around the house, I have even less time than before. Are we talking half a day or a couple of hours? 3) Information sources: Just lurking around the HBD provides a lot of information. You guys (and ladies) are great! But I would need a good, detailed 'How-to' manual. The problem is that I don't have a homebrew store to go to and would have to order books in English through the local French bookstore, ie: without seeing the book first. If I were to buy one book that details the equipment and procedures, what is the best one to order? Why? (publisher please) Steve Tollefsrud steve_t at fleurie.compass.fr Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1265, 11/06/93