HOMEBREW Digest #1278 Mon 22 November 1993

Digest #1277 Digest #1279

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Sam Bashing (snystrom)
  Invert sugar (Chuck Wettergreen)
  RE: Stepping up to a 5 gallon boil (Thomas C Maszerowski)
  Post boil evaporation of DMS/initiators (U-E68316-Scott Wisler)
  Stuff and Nonsense (npyle)
  cider questions and screw caps (Mark Taratoot)
  Wanted: Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout clone (Domenick Venezia)
  Bruheat vs. picnic cooler (Rob Skinner)
  Boiler siphoning (Dion Hollenbeck)
  first all grain! (questions) ("Mark B. Alston")
  Liquid yeast storage ("David H. Thomas")
  crabtree effect (Todd Gierman)
  A Defense of Sam Adams ("Kevin M. Watts")
  bottle bomb weizen (Ulick Stafford)
  Lyles Golden Syrup (Barry Miller)
  sanitation mehtods (Vernon Hutchens)

Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Archives are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 19 Nov 93 23:06:41 EST From: snystrom at aol.com Subject: Sam Bashing Al writes: >The Sam (tm) Adams (tm) product is nothing more >than a Cranberry Ale and reference to the esteemed >appellation "Lambic" is another unscrupulous marketing ploy >by the Boston (tm) Beer (tm) Company (tm). >I continue my boycott of Samuel Adams products! Al, I'm glad your boycott has been so successful. I managed to score my first bottles of "Cranberry Ale" today down here in Florida -- even though the officials at B (tm) B (tm) C(tm) said there wouldn't be enough for distribution in our state. <G> Sure, the lambic is not a lambic and the Octoberfest is not a true Octoberfest. And Samual Adams isn't the best beer brewed in America four years running. But I can remember not too many years ago when I refused to drink ANY American Beer because they all s _ _ _ _ _ _! (censored for political correctness). Sam bashing seems to be in vouge these days, but I think I can say most all of us at one point in our lives enjoyed the beer. And although I, too, have lost respect for the company due to marketing claims, I find it hard to name a company whose marketing practices are up to my standards. Budweiser is not the KING of beers, Hamms "land of sky-blue waters" commercials were filmed in Northern Califorina and Miller's "Lowenbrau" has little in common with the product from Europe. You may not believe anything you read on a bottle from James Koch, and that's the way it should be. Taste is what counts. Anyone who believes anything they read without question deserves what they get. And I believe I'll go get another bottle of Sam's from my fridge. . . Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 93 19:48:00 -0600 From: chuck.wettergreen at aquila.com (Chuck Wettergreen) Subject: Invert sugar All, I've received some questions about my invert syrup recipe and after checking it I realized that what I posted was wrong (gasp!). The recipe is: 8 pounds of white cane/beet sugar 2 pints (US) of water 1 tablespoon (=3 tsp) citric acid mix, heat to boiling (will FOAM! then turn beautiful clear golden color) cool, then dilute to 1 (US) gallon. one (US) pint equals 1 (US) pound of sugar Add too much of this and you'll STILL get that "cidery" taste! Chuck * RM 1.2 00946 * Sleep is an inadequate substitute for coffee. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1993 10:13:38 -0500 (EST) From: tcm6503 at cs.rit.edu (Thomas C Maszerowski) Subject: RE: Stepping up to a 5 gallon boil prf at cherry-semi.com (Paul Ferrara) writes: >to demote my 12qt aluminum pot to lobster boiling, and move on to >something bigger. I've been considering purchasing a "Bru-Heat" >thermostatically controlled boiler as a replacement brew pot ... my >theory being that for approx the price of a quality 24-30 qt stainless >steel pot, I can get a unit that will boil my wort now, AND, be used >for my next leap: to all grain brewing. > >Would this be a wise investment? Can the Bru-Heat bring a 5 gal batch >to a reasonably quick boil? Is it the right way to go for mashing? I've been using a Bruheat to boil the full 5 gallons for years. It does work, but it can be slowwwwwwwww. I recently insulated mine with that blue foam sheet insulation you can get at home stores. I cut thin bat and set them up vertically along the outside with cutouts for the thermostat and spigot. I also cut a piece for the bottom. It cut boiling time down to the point I was able to go from cold water to final cleanup in 2 hours. This is approximately half the time it took before. I can't help with mashing as I'm an extract brewer. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 93 11:05:27 EST From: U-E68316-Scott Wisler <wisler_scott at ae.ge.com> Subject: Post boil evaporation of DMS/initiators In jack's (flick you in the forehead and see if you jump) post on chillers, he advocates sealing the boiler while chilling. While it pains me to admit the idea intriguing, I also immediatly wondered two things. I waited to ask partly because I realized we were being baited, and because I hoped to have time to study up on the topics involved. That not being the case (yet), and since the topic has not been addressed, here goes: Are you sealing in DMS and/or its precursors during the time the wort is still hot? I understand that the long boil has many purposes, among them evaporating unwanted volatiles like DMS and/or its precursors. Within my (admittedly spotty) understanding of the process, if the wort remains above a certain temperature, the reaction which produces DMS will continue until all the formation material is depleted. One's goal therefore is to boil off all the DMS possible, and then chill the wort quickly to prevent DMS from being further produced. Note that I did not say as quickly as possible, but merely quickly :) What I do not yet understand are the details of the reaction, the precursor issues, the critical temperatures involved, how much DMS precursor material is left after an hour boil, and the implications of sealing you pot and thus preventing evaporation of this compound. Further enlightenment would be much appreciated. Second, how do you ge the lid off when its chilled. I know that when I leave a pot of hot peas with lid on the stove overnight (I hate it when I do that), its near impossible to get that lid off. Does the top of your lid bow in? scott swisler at c0431.ae.ge.com (In your best TV announcer voice) Stay tuned for the next episode of: `Bullwinkle at the Bottom' ...OR... `Mashed Moose' Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 93 9:36:36 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Stuff and Nonsense Dion, I understand completely about the Kegging FAQ delays. The boss always seems to want more work out of you just when you volunteer to do something outside of work. ** Mike Sharp: Are you just going to leave us hanging like that????... ** J. Fingerle writes: >My bottle cleaning procedure is this: after I decant a beer, I I don't mean to be abrasive but I don't "decant" beer, I pour it. Decanting is for that grape stuff. ** Chris writes: Chris>I have to agree with Ben's comments. Maybe the "Sam Adams Chris>Cranberry Lambic" is not a true lambic, but it IMHO, it is a very Chris>tasty brew. You are correct, it is not a true lambic, nor is it a pseudo-lambic, ersatz-lambic, imitation-lambic, anything-like-a-lambic. It should not be called a lambic, no matter how good it tastes. Al>>I continue my boycott of Samuel Adams products! Chris>Your loss. Although Koch may be a slime bag, he makes a decent Chris>product. Yes, he makes decent beer. But so do literally hundreds of good, decent people who avoid using the strong-arm tactics of the neighborhood bully to sell their product. Of the hundreds of brewers attending this year's GABF, the BBC tmtmtm was the only one in violation of GABF marketing rules. They were only allowed to attend because the GABF feared the threat of a lawsuit, which it certainly does not need. So, why would you want to buy beer from these people? You can buy good beer, better than Koch's, from good people. I'm with Al on this one: BOYCOTT SAM ADAMS PRODUCTS!!! ** Coyote, how about Rub-a-dub-Dubble for that bathtub brew? ** Al writes: >Would you eat a sandwich you dropped on the garage floor? I'm not sure my personal habits are any business of yours, or that they have a place in the digest, but here's my answer: Yes, but I wouldn't eat it after dropping it on the garage floor and then putting it in a carboy for two weeks 8^O ;-) Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1993 13:12:30 -0600 (MDT) From: Mark Taratoot <SLNDW at cc.usu.edu> Subject: cider questions and screw caps Greetings. Coyote mentions a gallon of cider that has started to spontaneously ferment and smells bad. My advice: LET IT GO WILD!! Last year I tossed one of my gallons of cider into a jug and put an airlock on, just to see what would happen. It smelled terrible for a month or two or three. I let it sit in the cold closet, not wanting to throw it out and eventually after about 6 months it had cleared quite a bit. I was about ready to throw it away, but I racked off the lees just to finish the experiment. I tasted a bit... MMMMMMMMM!!! After about another month or so in the second (third?) jug, I bottled it with just a tiny amount of priming sugar. Now this cider is very nice. One of the best yet! I may do five gallons this way with some extra fermentables this year, but I don't want to start a long project like that since I will likely be moving in the next 6 months. Regarding the cider that needs to be served soon: Kill it with vodka, heat, or cold, then either force carbonate and use a counter pressure filler or serve still. I don't like the sound of this method. Other method: Bottle it a day or three before you serve it and keep it cool!!! ********** Regarding twist off caps: When I first started brewing I used some twist off caps since my bottle collection was not complete. I was using an old-fashioned bench capper at the time. I never had any trouble using twist offs. When my friend left Utah to move to Washington state, he took his capper :( . I then started using a wing-style el-cheapo Italian capper. I found that this capper did not seal the few screw top bottles I still used occaisonally as well as the "real" bottles. (The main problem with the wing capper is that bottles must have a large collar for the capper to grab, so many of my bottles were difficult to cap). Now I have an old-fashioned bench capper of my own that was found BRAND NEW at a second-hand store (Thanks John). I have not used screw tops since I have had this capper, but I think it would cap them fine. The difference: Wing cappers grab the bottle and squeeze the crown onto the bottle while bench cappers just push the crown down onto the bottle. Perhaps the cappers that commercial breweries like SN use cap the bottles like the bench capper and so screw tops are not a problem. I think a bigger problem is cheap, thin-glass bottles. BTW... does anyone have any idea of the life expectency of a bottle for beer. As we re-use bottles, they get pressurized (slowly) and de-pressurized (quickly). How much of this stress can an ordinary bottle take? -toot Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1993 14:27:50 -0800 (PST) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at ZGI.COM> Subject: Wanted: Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout clone *** *** WARNING - WARNING - WARNING - This post may contain flame-bait. *** *** WARNING - WARNING - WARNING - This post may contain the word orgasm. *** If you find such words offensive, you have my sympathy. *** But seriously folks, I'm looking for an all grain Samual Smith's Oatmeal Stout recipe. I just went through the Cats Meow 2 and every HBD from 881031 to 1277 looking for postings containing the words "oats" or "oatmeal. Although there are many requests and lots of extract recipes there is not a single all grain recipe reputed to be a Sam Smith clone! I don't need to tell you, I was suprised! So let's see 'em. (Do it now) Directly to me or post them to the HBD. (Don't wait, do it now) Damn the bandwidth! (Mail recipe now) There have been too few recipes posted recently. This is what it's all about. Getting information into the hands of the People! Freeing the People from the shackles of AB tyranny! Power to The People! Whoa..., flashback. Domenick Venezia ZymoGenetics, Inc. venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 93 16:28:00 +0800 From: rob.skinner at kandy.com (Rob Skinner) Subject: Bruheat vs. picnic cooler Paul writes: >Would this be a wise investment? Can the Bru-Heat bring a 5 gal batch >to a reasonably quick boil? Is it the right way to go for mashing? >Or should I really spend many $$ and buy a stainles steel pot, propane >cooker, picnic cooler mash tun, sparging manifold, etc, etc, etc .... When I was ready to take the plunge to all-grain, several friends talked me into going with the picnic cooler setup. I'm glad they did; it's the closest you can get to unattended brewing. There is no worry about scorched grain, stirring, etc. If your worried about the cost, you might be able to get off cheaper with the cooler setup. If you can dig up an old cooler, are willing to settle for an enamel pot, and have an understanding spouse who will let you use the kitchen stove, you can get started for under fifty bucks. Word of caution though: some inexpensive coolers are made of plastic that cannot withstand the temperature of boiling water. I use a Coleman with the metal exterior, and it's still like new. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 93 08:01:03 PST From: hollen at megatek.megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Boiler siphoning I am leaving too much wort behind in my boiler after siphoning to primary fermenter. I leave about .75 gal as a combination of what is held in the hops and what is left because the hop bed causes my siphon to "break". I use a Sankey keg as a boiler. It has a 1/2" pipe nipple coming in from the side and an elbow and nipple going down into the botto. Over the nipple is a screen (1/8" grid) to keep out the whole hops. When I let liquid out and there is no hops, then all but about 1/2 cup of liquid is removed. 1) How much liquid do you leave in your boiler including in the hop bed. 2) Any suggestions, or do I just figure in the excess wort needed to be left behind? Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 93 10:43:37 MST From: "Mark B. Alston" <c-amb at math.utah.edu> Subject: first all grain! (questions) Well, I just brewed my first all grain yesterday. It was a blast! I have never done an partial-mash before this all-grain but it went fairly smoothly anyhow. However, after having actually done a mash new questions come up which I didn't even think of before. I'll post a summary of my procedures and equipment later. I think that it might be useful to those thinking about going all grain. With the right equipment I think that it can be quite easy. As I just found out. 1) I brewed a porter because my water is high in bicarbs and I didn't want to worry about messing around with my water too much. Since Noonan and Miller and just about everyone else says that a dark mash has a higher p.h. I assume that they mean that I should add the dark grains to the mash at mash in. Otherwise, I will have a mash which is the same as a pale ale mash and will have p.h. problems. Is this not correct? This is where I ran into my problem. Having such a dark mash it was impossible to tell what my p.h. papers were telling me. The wort (or is it not called wort till after the mash?) simply stained them a dark color. Everything went fine anyhow. I achived conversion regardless of the p.h. but it was still confusing. How do you all check the p.h. of your dark mashes? 2) This dark color brought out another problem. There would be no way to tell if iodine went black or not. The mash was black on it's own. Thus, I could not test for conversion. I simply let the mash sit at conversion temp for almost 2 hours. The liquid tasted sweet at this point so I went on. I achived an O.G. of 1.061 so I must have gotten conversion. So, how do you check for conversion of a dark mash? 3) For checking my extraction efficiency do I use the total grain weight (pale, chocolate, patent, crystal) or what? It seems that by including all the grains dark mashes will always seem less efficient than pale mashes even though I might have extracted the same amount from the pale malt. Moreover, I boiled off more liquid than I had intended and was left with only 4.25 gal or so in my carboy. So according to miller it seems that I should do the following: Degrees = (1.061 * 4.25)/10 = .45 since my total grain bill came to 10 lbs (8 lbs pale malt) and I was only left with 4.25 gal. What does this mean. Is this good or bad or what. Miller gives me no idea as to how what numbers I should get. Thanks for any and all info. Mark (c-amb at math.utah.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1993 13:25:25 -0500 (EST) From: "David H. Thomas" <dhthomas at lis.pitt.edu> Subject: Liquid yeast storage I am relatively new to brewing (ca. 10 brews) and am using liquid yeast for the first time. I'm looking for info concerning the storage of liquid yeast cultures from one brew to the next. The folks who sold me the package of liquid yeast (Wyeast London) told me I could reuse the yeast by storing it. Papazhian says not a whole lot about this. What precisely do I save? How much do I save? What do I save it in? Where do I save it? I seem to recall reading somewhere a bit about this--was it Dave Miller's book? (The title of which I can't seem to recall). Any help on this would be useful. Cheers, David Thomas dhthomas at icarus.lis.pitt.edu "What is this quotation stuff about, anyhow?" Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1993 14:37:30 -0500 From: tmgierma at acpub.duke.edu (Todd Gierman) Subject: crabtree effect In digest #1277, the question was asked: >Pardon my igorance, but what is the Crabtree Effect supposed to do to my beer, >and why would one avoid it? It seems it has to do with oxygen production, and >of course I know why I don't want oxygen in my beer at bottling, but could >someone explain the effect in greater detail? Quite simply the "Crabtree Effect" is really an observation that goes like this: In the presence of high glucose concentrations (>0.5%), yeast will continue to utilize fermentation even when oxygen is introduced into their environment. This phenomenon is sometimes called "aerobic fermentation." I don't know whether this explains the phenomenon of carbonating through the addition of dextrose. It may actually be that the addition of dextrose provides a carbon source at concentrations below 0.5% and now the yeast respire giving off CO2 and no alcohol (the addition of priming sugar does not increase alcohol content, right?) You see, basically, yeast ferment whenever they can and respire only when they have to (that is, when fermentables are low). In a glucose based nutrient system, anyway, yeast grow primarily by fermentation - glucose itself represses the expression of the enzymes required for respiration. Once the glucose is depleted to very low levels the yeast then kick into respiration mode, which requires oxygen and which can result in the catabolism of alcohol and acetaldehyde in addition to glucose. Well, you say, "my wort is mainly maltose, so I know they are respiring until the oxygen is depleted." There is actually glucose present in your wort prior to pitching the yeast, as well as other sugars(maltose, dextrins, etc). Glucose and fructose enter the yeast cell via passive diffusion. Maltose, on the other hand, is actively transported and can be consumed at a rate that exceeds glucose, in spite of the fact that it must be broken down enzymatically into two molecules of glucose. So, do the yeast respire early after pitching? I seriously doubt it. Like I said, in a glucose-based environment they ferment their little hearts out (figuratively). Maltose is actually two glucose molecules coupled and once broken is actually catabolized as ordinary glucose. So the real question here is: does maltose affect yeast metabolism in a manner identical to glucose (does it also repress respiration)? I suspect that it does, but do not know for certain. Why do we aerate then? Well, I understand that it is important for the synthesis of sterols, which, I assume, act, in part, as regulators of growth. This is an issue that should be cleared up (fermentation vs. respiration), as it gets thrown around these threads on a regular basis. Perhaps, someone with access to the real brewing literature could better address this question, i.e. the effect of abundant fermentables on respiration in yeast. Todd Gierman Dept. of Microbiology Duke University Medical Center Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Nov 93 15:02:38 EST From: "Kevin M. Watts" <75250.2033 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: A Defense of Sam Adams Chris (responding to Al) writes: >> I continue my boycott of Samuel Adams products! > Your loss. Although Koch may be a slime bag, he makes a decent product. A slimebag? Really? Sometimes this guy comes off sounding like Hitler in the HBD. You may question his marketing techniques regarding the GABF and his trademarking of the word "Boston". Regarding the first...it seems to me that GABF got a heck of a lot of free advertising since 1986/7 when SA began running those radio spots that mention "winner three/four years running of the GABF." True, he may not have explained the ins and outs of the awards process. He should be chastised for it. But if I remember correctly, GABF didn't complain until much later. Meanwhile, their attendance has doubled and tripled. The first time I ever heard about GABF was via those radio commercials, and I've attended two of them now. Regarding the second...as a marketing slimebag myself, I understand the need to maintain product identification. A guy walks into the store and sees "Boston Lager" and "Boston Stock Ale", both SA products, then sees "Boston Bock" or some other product by another manufacturer, and it stinks. Potential for problems for SA? You bet. Trademarking is as old as the hills. The love of Sam Adams inspired my search for good beer. You may disagree with his techniques, but remember, this is a business. How many brewers go bust every year? How many make a real profit? And, more to the point, how many micros can claim the widespread distribution of SA? I walked into a small town bar outside of Decatur, Alabama last year and they had SA on tap! It certainly did beat a Bud. This "slimebag" is the same guy who closed down his plant and took this entire staff to DisneyWorld to celebrate their anniversary. I don't know the man personally, but that sounds like a good boss to me. I suppose I'm about to get flamed by all the pure-of-heart beer geeks out there, and I'm ready. If you know something I don't about James Koch, something truly evil, then please let me know. I just think that calling for the boycott of a very good product and calling people really rude names in a public forum is silly. Just a thought. Now lets get back to the real beer stuff. -Kevin/Chicago Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 93 16:29:48 EST From: ulick at michaelangelo.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) Subject: bottle bomb weizen I had my first ever bottle bomb. It was a weizen and the cause was quite obvious. I deliberately followed every step in Warner's book, even when I questioned it. One such point was to do with carbonataion and for 5 gallons he recommends priming with either 1.6 qt of Speise or 1.8 quarts of wort. Obviously there is more sugar in the former (21B first runnings from Laeuter tun) than in the latter , ~13B, but I used the former anyway. I couldn't bring myslef to bottle after 2 days - the ferment had been low ~60F, but I bottled after 4 without bothering to change yeast. Anyway, after a week I had a perfect, if overcarbonated Weizen. A German friend of mine and another Irishman who lived for a while in Germany thought it was spot on. Anyway, while milling grain for a new batch down in my basemnt (now a 5-10 minute job with the MM instead of the previous 20+ with the Corona), a bottle blew - a longneck returnable, although probably flawed. I immediatly made space in my 40F lager for the rest to stop yeast activity and disolve more CO2. Later that evening my German friend called and asked me to bring over some weizen as his party guests wanted to try it. I told him of the mishap and he responded that usually one case in three of commercial weizen in Germany would have a bottle bomb - so it must be good! Anyway I brought it over and it was a hit with 'genau richtig' being a typical comment. This would seem to prove what a good book Eric Warner has written. He won the best weizen in 1992 at the AHA national, I think, and a brewer following his procedure won this year, although all the judges said his beer was a gusher. My next batch - 2 days old now so about reeady to bottle will be primed with just one quart of Speise. In 1277. Lee Menegoni comments that saccarificqation rests for decoction mashes should be longer because enzymes have been denatured. I'm not sure if this is the case. A decoction procedure should involve a rest at 150-160 for 15 minutes, whcih should be long enough with modern malts to convert all starches in the decocotion that are available, and the actual boil will make the other starches much more accessible. I have found that 20 minutes after combining the mashes is plenty to complete conversion with modern malts. If malt quality is poor, a double or triple decoction should be employed. Norm Pyle asks about the Crabtree effect, but Al K gave a good explanation to which I will only add that when disaccharides such as maltose are present in high concnetration the yeast cells enter their respiration phase consuming oxygen, so that they can release extracellular enzymes that then split the disacchaides into monosaccharides, that can then be absorbed through the cell walls. When monosaccharides (well glucose anyway) predominate the yeast cells do not need to repire as they can absorb the monosaccharides through their cell walls without the need to excrete enzymes. I have one question. Al mentioned that the Crabtree effect will occur if monosaccharides predominate. Is this true for fructose, and if so what happens when sucrose is present? Would the sucrose become invert (fructose and glucose) if added to the slightly acid beer as a bottling sugar, or would the repiration phase be intiated as in the case of maltose or maltotriose? __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at darwin.cc.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 93 15:29:00 -0400 From: barry.miller at som.linet.org (Barry Miller) Subject: Lyles Golden Syrup For those who are interested, Lyles Golden Syrup can be purchased from G.B. Ratto & Company, International Grocers Inc. 821 Oakland St. Oakland, CA 94607-4029. 1-800-325-3483. The syrup is listed in my catalog as item #2770, 16 oz. tin at $5.95. Even if you are not interested in the syrup, get a copy of Ratto's catalog. They have a superb selection of specialty and imported food items, spices etc. at reasonable prices. (I have no relationship with Ratto's other then as a very satisfied customer) Barry Miller barry.miller at som.linet.com - ---- +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | SOM Premium Info Network 516-536-8723 Hayes v.32bis USR DS/Hayes 28.8k | | Oceanside, New York -- Home of the Smartnet International Email Network | +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Nov 1993 20:45:21 -0800 (PST) From: p41539 at tcville.hac.com (Vernon Hutchens) Subject: sanitation mehtods I have been homebrewing for a year now, and I have been sanitizing everything with a mild bleach solution. No problems. A good friend of mine works in the food processing industry, and he says that I should use hydrogen peroxide to sanitize, like the food pros do. Is this a good idea? I am not motivated to change, but he won't leave me alone without a rebuttal. Fisher Hutchens hutchens at igate1.hac.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1278, 11/22/93