HOMEBREW Digest #1296 Mon 13 December 1993

Digest #1295 Digest #1297

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Reply to 12/8/aerlew at drc.usbm.gov (Patrick Seymour)
  Brew suplies around Chambersburg, PA ("Blahnik, Vance T")
  what makes dark extract dark? (Peter Maxwell)
  Kudos and carbonation (Richard Nantel)
  Re: AOL: Censorship ("J. Andrew Patrick")
  re: EKU-28 (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer)
  HBD Reader (Phil Brushaber)
  . ("Leslie G. Hunter"                  )
  Dream Tun (npyle)
  Northern Lagering Methods (G1400067)
  Looking for Commonwealth Brewery's Porter (Dave)
  Starve a lawyer - boycott Sam Adams beer (long) (Chuck Cox)
  misc. answers (Ulick Stafford)
  Non-alcoholic beer (Bob)
  FTP-ing from sierra.stanford.edu (Brett Charbeneau)
  neon beer signs (Jim Pierson)
  Aluminum for boil only OK? (Jim Posey)
  Brewpots: kegs or REAL stock pots? (Brett Charbeneau)
  Happy Customer (Jack Schmidling)
  HopTech Fruit Extracts (brewerbob)
  Beer Archaeologists (Andy Kurtz)
  EKU (Marc de Jonge)
  Just The Yeast, Man. (Phil Brushaber)
  Dealing With Plastic Extract Bags (lanbrew)
  Wanted: Canadian Brewers (Carlo Fusco)
  lagering... (abaucom)
  A Dock Street copy recipe? ("David M. Fresco")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 10 Dec 93 16:24:00 PST From: Patrick Seymour <seymour at ucs.ubc.ca> Subject: Reply to 12/8/aerlew at drc.usbm.gov From: Earle M. Williams <earlew at drc.usbm.gov> Subject: Head Retention, Beer Labels, and less... I cracked the top on a bottle of Nut Brown Ale last night, aged two weeks, and i noticed that while the carbonation was good, there was very little head. I tried pouring the beer from about 4 inches (10 cm) and it foamed up nicely, but within about 10 seconds it had settled to a slim memory of a thick foamy head. I hadn't really tried for a thick head in this beer, but it got me to thinking about past brews that had similar characteristics. Is there something I can add or delete to my brews that would encourage more head? I would appreciate some comments, with or without puns. :> Ahem, regarding your "lack of head" concern... I have been adding an additional 150-200grams of wheat in the grain bag - and recent batches have produced great head. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 93 15:10:00 est From: "Blahnik, Vance T" <blahnv at uf9455p01.minneapolismn.NCR.COM> Subject: Brew suplies around Chambersburg, PA My brother is looking for suppy sorces near Chambersber, PA. Any help is gratly appreaciated Please reply to vance.blahnik at minneapolismn.ncr.com. Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1993 17:15:19 -0800 (PST) From: Peter Maxwell <peterm at aoraki.dtc.hp.com> Subject: what makes dark extract dark? Many recipes based on extracts stipulate dark extract (or amber, if it comes to that). Full-grain recipes, on the other hand, always use basic malted barley and add extra things to get dark beers. So I have two questions: 1. What is it in a dark or amber extract that differentiates it from a light extract? 2. If I start off with light extract can I simply add more of chocolate/black patent, in addition to what might be specified in a recipe calling for dark extract, to achieve the same effect? Peter Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Dec 93 22:43:42 EST From: Richard Nantel <72704.3003 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Kudos and carbonation Kudos to all members of HBD. After three weeks on the net, I'm amazed by the quality of this digest. It has become my primary source of info on homebrewing. One question. I'm having carbonation problems. The traditional 3/4 cup priming sugar per 5 gallons (for most beer styles) produces different amounts of carbonation in different batches of beer. My latest is an all-grain pale ale (a variation of Papazian's Amazeing Pale Ale) which, although delicious, is slightly overcarbonated for the style. Also, this batch reached carbonation in a mere 7 days. Other recipes (using the same type yeast) produce beer with about the same final SG and level of alcohol and will, although primed with the same 3/4 cup per 5 gal ratio of priming sugar, take much longer to carbonate. In fact, some may never reach a high enough level of carbonation. Others have become greatly overcarbonated after 3 months in the bottle. The temperature here is a steady 73%. What's up? (I'm not interested in kegging.) Richard Nantel Montreal, Quebec Canada PS. Correction to my posting in HBD 1294. Molson produces XXX at 7.3% alcohol. Not Labatt. Also, due to public pressure, they've raised the price of this high-potency brew to discourage the cheap-fast-drunk crowd. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1993 00:09:58 -40975532 (CST) From: "J. Andrew Patrick" <andnator at genesis.Mcs.Com> Subject: Re: AOL: Censorship Mr. Craig Goldwyn, I dont think the readership of HBD is going to be very sympathetic to you telling them that they are not a reputable source of information about brewing. Which is what you just did, considering that much of the info about Jim Koch and the Boston Brewing Co that you considered "libellous" and deleted from the AOL Beer Forum was originally posted on the HBD!! +--------------+---------------------------------+--------------+ |Sysop | Andrew Patrick | Founder| |Home Brew Univ| AHA/HWBTA Recognized Beer Judge |Home Brew Univ| |Midwest BBS | SW Brewing News Correspondent | Southwest BBS| |(708)705-7263 |Internet:andnator at genesis.mcs.com| (713)923-6418| +--------------+---------------------------------+--------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1993 22:51:29 -0800 From: mfetzer at UCSD.EDU (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer) Subject: re: EKU-28 People people people!!! Eku 28: Erste Kulmbacher Unionsbrauerei, 28 degrees plato original gravity. Not an icebock, at least they say it is not, and it is not billed as such. Very strong, with a vinous characteristic that's present in some barley wines, but not to such a degree. Not a beer to have with your burger at lunch... it's a 'desert beer', just like there are desert wines. Have it with some icecream? Everything has a place and a time, and at the right time and in the right place EKU 28 is the perfect beer. If we're going to throw out EKU 28 as vile, we have to get rid of a whole slew of beverages that are not intended for mass consumption. Beer, it's not just for breakfast any more! EKU 28, it's just not for breakfast. :*) Mike - -- Michael Fetzer pgp 2.2 key available on request Internet: mfetzer at ucsd.edu uucp: ...!ucsd!mfetzer Bitnet: FETZERM at SDSC HEPnet/SPAN: SDSC::FETZERM or 27.1::FETZERM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 93 22:00:16 CST From: philb at pro-storm.metronet.com (Phil Brushaber) Subject: HBD Reader Like many of you, I get HBD sent to me in one huge file. Even when I used to get it through a PCBoard BBS, It would get broken down into three large files. I'd like it to be easier to respond to individual notes within a given day's HBD. Anyone have any experience with a good reader for HBD? Since this is modestly on subject, private mail is welcome. TIA Phil - ----- Internet: philb at pro-storm.metronet.com UUCP: metronet.com!pro-storm!philb Bitnet: philb%pro-storm.metronet.com at nosc.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 93 09:11 CST From: "Leslie G. Hunter" <KFLGH00%TAIMVS1.BITNET at TAIVM1.TAIU.EDU> Subject: . set Leslie Hunter nomail Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1993 11:51:23 -0500 (EST) From: "THE FOURWHEELIN' 'TALIAN WANNABE JOKEMEISTER." <AD75173%LTUVAX.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Re: Murphy's Irish Stout. I, too just purchased a can of this beer. I was intrigued by the "pressure system". I saw the posting about it on the last HBD, and decided to take a closer look. Sure enough, I saw the plastic insert. I opened the can from the bottom with the tap of a pointed object (learned from my father to save cans for a beer can collection) and I can see some plastic apparatus near the bottom. That's all I know.. Might as well get insight on something I've been trying: I got into winemaking before homebrewing, but it takes too long to make wine, so I'm into making beer now, too. Anyway, a recipe for sparkling wine says to prime it with corn sugar when it's done, and put it in 2-liter plastic bottles. When the yeast settles out, one can siphon the wine off it and into champagne bottles. But this would lose carbonation, right? Well, the recipe says to chill the wine till ice starts to form. In school I learned that cold liquids effervesce less, so this makes sense. QUESTION: has anyone tried this with beer? The first time I tried it, I didn't chill it enough, and lost quite a bit of carbonation. Aaron Dionne Lawrence Technological University Southfield, Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 93 13:49:21 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Dream Tun My dream tun is beginning to take shape, with suggestions from various HBDers. I'm currently thinking of a SS half-barrel keg, insulated somehow (cedar boards?). I would install a pipe fitting near the bottom with a manifold in the tun. The manifold will probably be a set of pipes with holes or slots in them, facing down. It will be a dual purpose manifold: 1) steam injection, and 2) liquor draining. The holes nearest the fitting will be smaller than the ones farther away; an attempt to create an even flow of steam from all holes (this could be more work than its worth, requiring lots of trial and error). The steam injection will be the only method for heating the tun, there will be no direct fire. This should serve quite well as a mash/lauter tun for simple infusion and step-mashes. I expect to have to stir the mash during temperature increases, but not during rests as it will be insulated. The other dual purpose vessel I would need is a hot liquor / steam generator tank. This would be direct propane fired. It could be used to heat the strike water at the start of the mash. Then the temperature would be turned up for boiling and the steam piped over to the mash tun for step mashes. It would need to be able to be closed tightly and would need an outlet at the top for steam and another at the bottom for draining the hot water. I don't expect much pressure to build up, as the only back pressure would be the weight of the mash, but I would install a pressure relief valve in case of operator error. I would need a valve between the steam outlet and the manifold because during draining, it would draw air in as the wort passed by the "T". It would be nice if this thing was insulated as well for efficiency. I think this could be a quarter barrel keg, or a soda keg with the rubber removed. Any ideas on where to purchase these kegs? Am I loony? I could do without all the standard warnings about steam, pressure, etc. I know how dangerous it is. I wouldn't build this thing if I thought it couldn't be done safely. I would appreciate any comments on the ease / difficulty I will have in doing something like this. BTW, this will all be gravity fed: hot liquor tank, mash/lauter tun, boiler, fermenter. One big drawback is that the hot liquor tank will be a good 7 or 8 feet high (to the top of it). The other option is a pump which will push hot water up a few feet (the steam will take care of itself). Comments? Cheers, Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1993 16:43:09 -0500 (EST) From: G1400067 at nickel.laurentian.ca Subject: Northern Lagering Methods Hello, I have a friend who has a cottage on the French River in Northern Ontario. He has been talking about brewing a lager for a long time now, but he does not have access to a fridge to accomodate the required lagering temperatures. Recently, he came up with a pretty unique idea for lagering, without the use of a fridge, but I'm not sure that it's going to work, so I need some advice. He is going to do a full mash and rack of the cold break into a glass carboy. The carboy is going to be sealed up in plastic and placed carefully into the river just before ice-over. The theory here is that once the river freezes, the water temperature below the ice will be at 4 deg. C. This sounds pretty good for cold fermentation. He intends to leave the carboy in the river until ice-out in the spring. He also seems pretty confident that the carboy will not break at any time during this process. There is little to no current which runs at his "brewing" location. I was skeptical to say the least, but for no good reason that I could think of. What am I missing? Greg Pyle g1400067 at nickel.laurentian.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 93 17:21:12 EST From: CARBACIO at ROO.DNET.ICD.Teradyne.COM (Dave) Subject: Looking for Commonwealth Brewery's Porter ISO a great Porter recipe! I'd like to know if anyone can help me duplicate a Porter I experienced at the Commonwealth Brewery, in Boston. I attended a banquet there about three years ago and had this black beauty served. This was before I was into brewing my own, but recall it being light bodied, medium hopped, and well balanced. If anyone has this recipe I'd appriciate a copy. Happy brewing! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 93 16:11:06 EST From: chuck at synchro.com (Chuck Cox) Subject: Starve a lawyer - boycott Sam Adams beer (long) Since there is renewed interest in Jim Koch's legal shenanigans, I though some of our newer subscribers might be interested in reading about my encounter with Koch's rabid lawyers. Last year I was subpoenaed in relation to his lawsuit against the Boston Beer Works. They claimed it was because I had offered to testify as an expert on behalf of the BBW (I wrote a letter to the BBW attorney stating my opinion but it was never used). However it became clear that they were upset about some unflattering (but factual) postings I had made about Koch to the net, most likely the HBD. They subpoenaed me and all of my personal correspondence and written materials related to the litigants in Koch's various lawsuits. As it turns out, the subpoena was quietly dropped when I told their lawyers that while I would challenge the disclosure of personal correspondence, as a master beer judge and brewing instructor I would be glad to be deposed as to the facts of any of my public statements about any of the litigants. Koch's habit of taking legal action against his critics is generally a successful strategy because most folks are too spineless to stand up to him. This time it backfired because not only did I fight, I exposed his tactics to thousands on the net and challenged him to let me testify. For the record, here are some of the facts that Koch doesn't like folks to know: Sam Adams Boston Lager was designed by brewing consultant Joseph Owades. Joe even wrote a paper about it. Koch is not the father of the microbrewery revolution. He is a contract brewer who got started years after the revolution had begun. Until he opened a small pilot brewery in Boston a few years ago, all of his beer was brewed under contract. Even today the vast majority of his product is contract brewed at distant regional breweries. His antics caused the GABF to eliminate the popularity poll. Subsequent misbehaviour caused him to be kicked out of the festival. Koch only got back in by threatening to sue. In various ads he has misrepresented his GABF awards. He is being sued by New York state for fraudulent advertising. Here is a list of organizations that he has sued or threatened to sue (there may be more): Boston Beer Works Commonwealth Brewing Company Boston Brewers Festival Great American Beer Festival By the way, I am told that he has lost his latest appeal in his lawsuit against the BBW. The only remaining appeal would be to the supreme court who has never heard a trademark infringement case. In my opinion, his lawsuits are frivolous. As numerous judges have made perfectly clear, he does not and cannot own the word "Boston". His continued litigation proves that he is abusing the legal system in order to intimidate his competition and critics. In my opinion, Koch is behaving in an unacceptable manner. I continue to encourage beer lovers to avoid Sam Adams products because the profits are used to the detriment of the brewing renaissance. As I like to say, "Starve a lawyer - boycott Sam Adams beer". Here is a copy of the message I posted at the time: > From hbd Tue Dec 15 06:12:45 1992 > Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 15:25:13 EST > From: chuck at synchro.com (Chuck Cox) > Subject: Subpoena > > Well, I was served an interesting document the other day... > > ======================================================================== > > United States District Court > DISTRICT OF MASSACHUSETTS > > BOSTON BEER COMPANY LIMITED PARTNERSHIP, > d/b/a THE BOSTON BEER COMPANY > V. > SLESAR BROS. BREWING COMPANY, INC. > d/b/a BOSTON BEER WORKS > > SUBPOENA IN A CIVIL CASE > CASE NUMBER: 92-10865-K > > TO: Charles Cox > Synchrosystems > 44 Western Ave (wrong address!!) > Cambridge, MA 02139 > > YOU ARE COMMANDED to appear ... > at the taking of a deposition in the above case. > > YOU ARE COMMANDED to produce and permit inspection > of the following documents ... > > Any written correspndence or other documents in your possession which > refer, relate or allude to Boston Beer Company, Boston Beer Works, or > Commonwealth Brewing Company and/or any persons connected with Boston > Beer Company, Boston Beer Works or Commonwealth Brewing Company. > > (signed) Richard A. Savrann, Esq. > > ======================================================================== > > As some of you may recall, I wrote a letter to the BBW attorneys this > summer expressing my opinion about this trademark infringement nonsense. > While the letter was never used, the BBC attorneys found out about it by > reading my postings to the net, and now they want to see it. > > While issuing the above subpoena is perfectly legal, I think it is also > indicative of how absurdly litigious Koch & Co have become. > > FYI: The above case is an appeal to the original trademark infringement > case which BBC lost. They are also suing the CBC for using the word > 'Boston' on their labels. > > Here is a copy of the letter that has them so worried... > > ======================================================================== > > 5 June 1992 > > To whom it may concern, > > In my opinion, consumers will not be confused by any > similarity between "Boston Beer Works" and "Boston Beer > Company". "Boston Beer Company" is not widely known by > consumers, since most identify their products as "Samuel > Adams". In addition, "Boston Beer" is a generic phrase and > is part of the name of a variety of businesses, > organizations and events in the Boston area. > > Sincerely, > > Charles Cox > > BJCP Master Beer Judge > > Member - Boston Beer Society > > ======================================================================== > - -- Chuck "Boston Beer" Cox <chuck at synchro.com> SynchroSystems / Riverside Garage & Brewery - Cambridge, Mass. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 93 17:35:08 EST From: ulick at michaelangelo.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) Subject: misc. answers Brett Charbeneau wonders how to log into sierra.stanford.edu. When asked for a user name respond ftp, and when it asks you for a password as your complete email address respond r at . The at automatically appends your site address. If you are up to no good respond with the address of someone you don't like :-) Dennis Lewis has loitering problems. Perhaps a procedural change would help. Try laeutering very slowly especially at the start. This allows the bed to settle nicely and filter better and not compact. I find that the most effective thing that I did to speed up my sparges was to slow them down! Unfortunately it reads as if Matthew Bohne has a nasty contamination problem. Ring around the neck and gushing has got to be a nice ... em .. ococcus infection or something. Someone (oops can't read my own writing) asks about Murphy cans. If you cut open the can you will find that it contains a cylinder with a small hole. If you try popping open the cylinder it will go pop and part will go flying accross the room. Unless you want your next phone call to be to an eye specialist or ambulance chasing attorney wear a pair of safety goggles while doing this. The container cotains nirogen under pressure that leaks out through the hole when the can is opened and stirs up the froth nicely. This device is patented by an English firm, I think, and is a cumbersome way of countering Guinness' more elegant device without a patent infringement. I loved Mark Bunster's AB busting story. When I went to the park, I didn't even know that there was a brewery there. And I like Kulminator. Who was it told the great story a while back about being at a restaurant with a large group from work? When he saw that they had good old EKU 28 on the menu he ordered a bottle. The rest of the group knowing him to be a beer connoisseur followed suit. I believe the repsonse was what one would expect!! __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at darwin.cc.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 93 13:57:33 PST From: Bob <TATTERSH at WSUVM1.CSC.WSU.EDU> Subject: Non-alcoholic beer In response to the December 9, 1993 posting by GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINC ETON.EDU regarding non-alcoholic beer: In September I brewed my first batch of non-alcoholic beer. Essentially I copi ed a recipe from Papazian. With a few ingredient alterations to his Righteous Real Ale, the procedure is as follows: On Day 1, boil the malt extract in 2 gallons of water, using Irish Moss as a settling agent for the final 15-20 minutes. Without adding any hops in this initial boiling, cool after a 30-45 minute boil suing whatever cooling method you prefer. Pitch yeast in your usual fashion once you have added the necessary amount of water to equal 5 gallons. On Day 12, or whenever you are certain fermentation is complete, siphon the fermented "beer" into a 8 gallon pot. Bring to a rolling boil. Add hops in th e usual time frames. For my batch I added hops at the 5 and 55 minute marks. Irish Moss is added at the half hour mark. The alcohol boils off at 178 degree s F. Once the beer has reached a rolling boil stage, you can be certain that t he alcohol is in the air in your house. Therefore keeping the windows open or your exhaust fan on high is essential or you will inhale some of the alcohol you are trying to avoid in the beer. Cool the beer, then siphon into a priming tank. I strain out the spent hops by personal choice. On Day 13, after the beer has once again settled, add 1/4 cup yeast, 1 cup corn sugar, and a settling agent if desired. It should be noted that live yeast must be added at this point, since boiling from several days before kills the yeast from the fermentation process. 1/4 cup yeast might be a bit much and in a later batch I used just over 1/8 cup and achieved good results. I harvested yeast from the previous batch in this case, but yeast gathered in any fashion accomplishes the task. Then I bottled the beer. About 2 weeks later I tried my concoction. It was very good. In this first ba tch I had not considered how much water I was also boiling off, so I only bottl ed about 4 resulting gallons of beer. In a second batch of non-alcoholic beer I added a gallon of water after the second boil to make up for the water lost. Of course, I boiled the extra water first to rid it of oxygen before adding it to the now alcohol-free beer to avoid contamination. I realize that the shelf life on my non-alcoholic beer should be shorter than one with alcohol since no alcohol remains to act as a preservative. However, the hops should assist in preservation at least to some degree. The other beer I made was a porter, with Williams English Dark extract. The sa me good results occurred. A number of people have tried both non-alcoholic beers and pronounced them at least good. I made companion batches with the same ingredients, but with the alcohol remaining, just to see if there would be a difference in taste. The only difference seemed to be in the subtle taste of alcohol in one beer and not in the other. Other than this, my alcohol-free beers taste remarkably similar to the companion batches that have alcohol. I am also quite certain that no alcohol remains since the porter with alcohol h as a 5% rating. One porter has an obvious kick while the other one has none at all. The most obvious compliment I have received (and by everyone who has had one of my non-alcoholic beers) is when they ask if I am sure that there is no alcohol. Except for the tiny amount generated by the yeast fermenting the corn sugar in the priming tank, the answer is yes. I have however, felt an interesting dullness around my temples after imbibing a non-alcoholic beer of m ine which I attribute possible to the sedative nature of the remaining hops. Usually the effects of hops are hidden by the alcohol in one's beer. Not being a chemist, however, I have no idea if this last statement is correct. While I am responding to the 12/9/93 request, I would welcome any thoughts on my process from members of the HBD. I have only been brewing beer for 3 years and as you can tell I am an extract brewer. The more advanced chemistry that occasionally appears within the HBD is somewhat beyond me, but I enjoy brewing nonetheless. My foray into non-alcoholic beers occurred at the time of my wife's pregnancy so that she could continue to have a "beer" on occasion. And I did want one myself from time to time and cannot stand the commercial attempts at this style. Two other notes: I used liquid yeast originally in the batch from which I harvested yeast for the non-alcoholic beers and I have yet to try a lighter flavored and colored beer with this process. Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Dec 93 19:19:54 From: bwchar at mail.wm.edu (Brett Charbeneau) Subject: FTP-ing from sierra.stanford.edu To all that sent messages aiding me in FINALLY being able to FTP some files from the HBD archives, a very big thank you! I am grateful for all the kind words and encouragement. For the record: I was Telnet-ing when I should have been FTP-ing. Duh.... Brett Charbeneau P.O. Box 1776-MHW Williamsburg Imprints Program Williamsburg, VA 23187 Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Tel: (804) 229-1000 INTERNET: bwchar at mail.wm.edu FAX: (804) 221-8948 Why is it that the pioneers always have arrows in their backs? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 93 18:38:52 CST From: jpierson at csinc.mn.org (Jim Pierson) Subject: neon beer signs Does anyone have neon beer signs or other beer related "stuff" that they are wanting to rid themselves of for a reasonable price? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1993 17:18:31 -0800 (PST) From: Jim Posey <dodger at quack.kfu.com> Subject: Aluminum for boil only OK? Will I impart off flavors, or worse, kill, my new brew if I use a n aluminum pot to pre-boil and cool water to go into the carboy that will be mixed with the fresh wort? Just thought I'd ask after I did it without a thought. (duh) Hoping, Jim Posey Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Dec 93 19:22:59 From: bwchar at mail.wm.edu (Brett Charbeneau) Subject: Brewpots: kegs or REAL stock pots? I have seen 24-quart stainless-steel stock pots for sale recently for as little as $70 (sans lid, mind you). I *have* been considering converting a keg into a brew pot, but at this price I am sorely tempted to just take the plunge. Does anybody have any thoughts about my keg vs. pot quandry? Brett Charbeneau P.O. Box 1776-MHW Williamsburg Imprints Program Williamsburg, VA 23187 Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Tel: (804) 229-1000 INTERNET: bwchar at mail.wm.edu FAX: (804) 221-8948 Why is it that the pioneers always have arrows in their backs? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 93 22:18 CST From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Happy Customer >From: STROUD%GAIA at leia.polaroid.com >BTW, I am sure that you are right that a larger hopper hole would increase the throughput on a MaltMill, but we tested it as manufactured.... Does it really make any difference in the length of my brewday if I spend 2 vs 3 minutes crushing grain?? I certainly didn't intend to antagonize a happy customer and I appreciate your comments. I just thought it was useful to point out that the capacity for high volume milling is built into the MM whether it is needed or not. A substantial number of MM customers are brew pubs, small breweries and grain retailers who crush a great deal of malt and throughput is very important to them. >From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> >Anyone know of a good way to make non-alcoholic beer. I have a friend at work who doesn't drink, and I was wondering if any of the great beer styles of the world can be brewed without alcohol. Here is my semi-annual posting of my thoughts on the subject.... NON-ALCOHOLIC BEER Jack Schmidling Everytime I mention NA beer, people give me funny looks and ask questions like, "why would anyone want to do that to homebrew?" Having been a victim of my hobby some years ago, I drank nothing but Kingsbury for almost 10 years. The thought of going back to that is all the motivation I need. I have been limiting myself to one 16 oz glass of beer, per day for a couple of years and I no longer consider myself a recovering alcoholic. However, making beer is so much fun and hombrew tastes so good that rather then cheat, I have been experimenting with making NA homebrew and have come with a process that works, is simple and most "experts" can't identify what is missing. The basic process makes a one gallon batch for the skeptical but can be scaled up to any size. When you have your next batch ready to bottle, syphon off one gallon before priming. Put this in a kettle with (2) tablespoons of sugar and bring the temp up to 170 F with the lid off, hold it there for 15 min. Let it cool, uncovered until the temp gets below 150 F. Then cover it and cool it to room temp as quickly as possible. You can put it in a sink with running water. When room temp, add 1/8 tsp yeast. I used EDME yeast but I presume that any yeast will do. However, all bets are off if you use Red Star. Let it sit for a while to disolve and disperse, then stir well with a sanitized spoon. Pour the brew into your favorite bottles and cap. It is a good idea to include at least one plastic bottle to monitor cabonation. When the plastic bottle is hard, refrigerate them all. This usually takes no more than a few days at room temp. If you are set up for kegging, it is even easier. Just heat up 5 gallons as above, keg it when cool and force carbonate it. You can also experiment with adding hops during the heating step. I don't particularly like the results but I am not a hops freak. What does it taste like? You'll have to try it yourself to find out. However, I would say that it has a slight hint of a "cooked" taste. This taste can be totally masked by the addition of a pound of roasted barley in an all grain beer or whatever you do to make an extract beer taste like stout. This beer improves dramatically with age. If you can refrigerate it for a month or two before drinking, all of the off flavors will go away and you will be hard pressed to believe it is what it is. Jean Hunter at Cornell has tested a sample on a gas chromatagraph and says it contains around 1.3% alcohol. This can not legally be called NA but it solves my problem completely. It is below the threshold that drives me to continue drinking. More recently I have done some additional experimenting and think I learned the secret to very low alcohol. It is not some exotic yeast or process, it is simply diluting the beer with water. After "cooking", I simply add an equal volume of water (previously boiled) and keg as usual. The result is an NA that is still amazingly good compared to the industrial stuff (NA or otherwise) and half the calories and alcohol compared to just de-alcoholizing the beer. Any off flavors from cooking will also be reduced in half. If you don't like 50:50, use what ever suits you. js Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 93 07:18:57 EST From: brewerbob at aol.com Subject: HopTech Fruit Extracts A question was asked about the fruit extracts from HopTech. I have received the cherry and the raspberry extracts but I have not usd the raspberry yet (the wheat beer is nearing completion as I type this note, another few days!). I used the cherry flavor in a bock beer that is still in lagering but old enough that I was able to sample one the other day. I am very pleased with the flavor it imparts but I offer a suggestion that I should have known myself before I bottled. I used the amount suggested by Mark Garetz (HopTech) for five gallons. The flavor is there but it is less than I was looking for. In a lighter beer, it would probably be fine but in a bock with a "higher than average" hopping rate, it is lees than desired. I suggest that you use your own judgement and and put more than the called for amount in a darker beer and less, perhaps, in a lighter beer. The instructions advise testing first by using drops of extract in a glass of beer but I ignored that! (When all else fails, follow the directions!) In any case, the stuff is great and it is easy to use. Try it, you'll like it! BrewerBob in St. Augustine, FL; charter member of the Northeast Florida Society of Brewers (the SOB's) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1993 08:16:20 -0500 (EST) From: Andy Kurtz <ak35+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Beer Archaeologists Michael Jackson has a really nice piece in the newest Zymurgy (winter '93) on the Durden Park Beer Circle. This is the London-area group dedicated to the preservation of old beer recipes and brewing methods. Anyway, Jackson concludes the piece with a plug for a booklet the group puts out called "Old British Beers and How to Make Them." The address given, of course, is in England (Berkshire, to be exact). I was wondering if anyone knows if the booklet is available stateside? Also, has anyone heard of people doing the same sort of work in the U.S.? I know there are several books on brewing history but has anyone done any archival research into actual recipes? It would probably be a difficult project to undertake, with prohibition putting so many breweries out of work (Pittsburgh had hundreds of neighborhood breweries before the crackdown). But, for that, it would be all the more interesting. I know that the tiny town I grew up in (2500 people in rural Ohio) had its own brewery until just about the turn of the century. I wonder what their swill tasted like? ak Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 93 15:11:15 +0100 From: dejonge at tekserv.geof.ruu.nl (Marc de Jonge) Subject: EKU in HBD#1295 Rob Reed writes: > I just wanted to set the record strait on EKU Kulminator. Actually > '28' refers to the number of pounds of malt that are used per > 1 liter serving. This works out to be about 1.49 metric tons of > malt per barrel. This explains the intense maltiness and the high > alcohol level - 198 proof if memory serves me correctly. No this is not correct, it is over 200 proof, that's why you must freeze it, to squeeze more alcohol molecules alongside in the bottle. > It is used as a gasoline substitute in many European communities. Come on man, everybody in europe knows that gasoline drinking is for schoolgirls only. > It is recommended that you wear a wrist or ankle grounding > strap while you are pouring or drinking this beer to minimize > the chance of a spark induced fire. Just a data point... The new EEC regulation 314159265.359 (sub a ) requires using a flexible rubber tube attached firmly around both the drinkers neck and the rim of the glass to prevent dangerous fumes escaping into the environment. ObBrewing: Just got a sample of 'de Koninck' brewing yeast, report will follow in a few weeks... _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ Marc de Jonge dejonge at geof.ruu.nl Utrecht University, Geophysics dept, Utrecht, the Netherlands -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 93 11:57:00 -0600 From: phil.brushaber at lunatic.com (Phil Brushaber) Subject: Just The Yeast, Man. I have been pitching yeast from the sediment collected from previous batches for some time. Right now I have a Pilsner (using Wyeast Pilsner 2007) fermenting. It seems to have a little more trub in it than usual. I have been collecting the spent sediment from the bottom of the primary and pouring it into a sterilized Mason jar. After a short period of refrigeration the liquid kinda forms three layers: 1) Brown old beer, 2) White Yeast, 3) Tan Trub. It's easy enough to pour off the old beer and keep the remaining sediment... HERE'S THE QUESTION. Assuming that you don't want to pitch all that old trub. How do you syphon off/separate just the yeast? Any thoughts, techniques? - --> Phil Brushaber, Dallas ... (C) Footjoy Brewing: Home of Shoe Brew! ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.11 - ---- =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= The Lunatic Fringe BBS * 214-235-5288 * 3 nodes * Richardson, TX* 24 hrs UseNet, ILink, RIME, FIDO, Annex, Intelec, LuciferNet, PlanoNet, and more! =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 93 14:56:59 EST From: lanbrew at aol.com Subject: Dealing With Plastic Extract Bags As a teacher of brewing classes, I use a lot of Northwestern extract. It is inexpensive and quite good. The easiest method I have found for dealing with the bag is to heat the brewing water and use specialty grains, if applicable. When the water is hot or the grains are removed, slit the bag (hold it over the brewpot) in several places with a sharp knife and drop it into the water. Please be sure that you turn the heat off before you do this. Stir the bag, extract, and everything around for a few minutes, retrieve the bag with your spoon, and you are done. The water will have washed all but a tiny amount of extract out of the bag. This is quick, easy and effective. Lanny Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1993 14:18:00 -0500 From: carlo.fusco at canrem.com (Carlo Fusco) Subject: Wanted: Canadian Brewers MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION - THE CANADIAN AMATEUR BREWERS ASSOCIATION ***************************************************************** WHAT IS CABA? The Canadian Amateur Brewers Association (CABA) is a Federally Incorporated non-profit organization whose purpose is to promote homebrewing as an enjoyable hobby through educational publications, events, and other activities. HOW CAN CABA HELP ME? The Canadian Amateur Brewers Association is dedicated to improving the skills and knowledge of its members. Members are invited to participate in the special events organized including the annual conference, frequent competitions and special seminars. For less than the savings from a single batch of homebrew, you can enroll in the only national club in Canada which will help you brew better beer. THE BENEFITS OF JOINING CABA Newsletter every two months Annual Conference Annual Spring Competition Fall Competition Judge training/Tasting seminar Discounts at retailers Members Forum A greater variety of regional activities across Canada will be planned as CABA's membership increases. For more information write or phone CABA at: CABA 19 Cheshire Dr. Islington, Ontario M9B 2N7 Phone/Fax: 416-237-9130 Compuserve: 71601,3357 Internet: carlo.fusco at canrem.com ligas at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca Fidonet: Carlo Fusco at 1:229/15 - --- * Freddie 1.2.5 * email: carlo.fusco at canrem.com Sharon,Ontario,Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 93 16:41:07 EST From: abaucom at fester.swales.com Subject: lagering... Can someone explain true lagering??? Specifically, what part of the fermentation should be done at cold temperatures. Here is what I've done so far... 1) made ~3/4 quart starter from 4 month old Wyeast Calif Lager slurry that I saved from a previous batch in August. 2) The starter took about 36 hours to get cranking but It smelled and tasted fine so I went ahead and pitched into a cooled (~70F) batch. 3) Now, I let it stay in the house until the batch was cranking (~20 hours) and there was 1.5 inches of kreusen (using a 7gal carboy w/5 gal batch). The house is about 60F. 4) Next I moved the batch to the garage which was around 48F degrees. 5) Since then the temp in the garage has dropped to about 38F and the fermentation rate (airlock clicks) has slowed way down (30 sec). The batch is now 3 days old and there is still some kreusen on top. I have kept the carboy close to the wall of the house and have been monitoring the temp closely. I also have a form fitting sytrofoam container that I'm keeping it in so any change in temp should be slow. (all appears normal, albeit slower) (Of course I didn't research true lagering before I made this batch, that would make too much sense! ;^) My question is this... Should the primary fermentation be done at temps higher than those I am using and then keep the secondary cold for a few weeks/months? (not that I have any real control over the temp! other than the sacrificial cold-beers I drink to appease the cold-weather God) Any input on this subject would be greatly appreciated! :*) Thanks, Andrew +------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Andrew W. Baucom Phone: (301) 572-1327 | Swales & Associates, Inc. FAX: (301) 595-2871 | 5050 Powder Mill Road "Soon, the whole world will know the | Beltsville, MD 20705 joy of my nipples!" - Stimpy | abaucom at fester.swales.com +------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1993 20:46:23 +0500 (EST) From: "David M. Fresco" <fresco at gibbs.oit.unc.edu> Subject: A Dock Street copy recipe? Greetings, I'm interested in making some homebrew that resembles Dock Street. Preferably, this recipe would include malt extracts and speciality grains (rather than all grain). Please send recipes to: fresco at unc.edu Thanks in advance. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= = David M. Fresco = = Department of Psychology = = CB#3270, Davie Hall __o = = Chapel Hill, NC 27599 \<, = = Internet: fresco at unc.edu `,/'(*) = = fresco at med.unc.edu (*) . ./""" = = Voice: (919) 962-5082 """" = = Fax: (919) 962-2537 = =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1296, 12/13/93