HOMEBREW Digest #1323 Thu 13 January 1994

Digest #1322 Digest #1324

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  FAQs / Chillers / HSA? (npyle)
  Commercial Beer Bitterness (npyle)
  Re: Sending Homebrew (Al Gaspar)
  Stout vs. Porter/Mash FAQ/Water Useage (npyle)
  Forgot to sign my message! (VIALEGGIO)
  where do all the answers go ? (Chris Weight)
  Subject: Kegging and Soda ("conley")
  New Sanitizing Tool (Grad student Filip Mulier)
  Melbourne Florida brewpubs ? ("KEVIN CAVANAUGH")
  Beer Bitterness (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Filter Units / Mailing -Flying Beer (COYOTE)
  Re: Why do you enter out of state competitions? (Steve Piatz)
  no subject (file transmission) (Steve Scampini)
  Transporting homebrew (GARY SINK 206-553-4687)
  Sam Adams Winter Recipe (Phil Hyde)
  No yeast infection. (Cree-ee-py Boy)
  5 gallon PLASTIC carboys (GNT_TOX_)
  Filters (jim_sieja)
  Yeast Re-use (Bob W Surratt)
  Strike Temperature ("Dave Suurballe")
  beer in the air (re: PET Beer transport?) (Dick Dunn)
  Homebrew club list (x-4378)" <Simpson at po2.rb.unisys.com>
  dry hopping/carbonation/bottle sanitation (Keith MacNeal  11-Jan-1994 1535)
  Re: RIMS Thermostats and False Bottoms (Jeff Berton)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 9:16:57 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: FAQs / Chillers / HSA? Doug (LUKASIK_D at sunybroome.edu) asks about dry hopping and yeast culturing. Check out the hops.faq and the yeast.faq at the stanford archive site (look at the HBD header for information on accessing it). Here's the TOC of the Hops FAQ: TABLE OF CONTENTS OF FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT HOPS (TOCOFAQAH) The following general topics are presented in this FAQ: Definition of Hops Description of Important Compounds Forms of Hops Bittering Units / Formulae Storage Growing Hops Dry Hopping <------------------------------------------------ !!! Hop Back Using Fresh Hops Hop Varieties (Aroma) Hop Varieties (Bittering) And here's the TOC of the Yeast FAQ: LIST OF CONTENTS: - ---------------- INTRODUCTION SECTION I: YEAST CHARACTERISTICS ACTIVITY TEMPERATURE ATTENUATION FLOCCULATION pH RANGES ALCOHOL TOLERANCES SMELLS AND TASTES OBTAINING CULTURES AND MISCELLANY <----------------------- !!! WHERE TO LOOK IN THE ARCHIVES FOR MORE INFORMATION SECTION II: YEAST PROFILES PART 1: DRY ALE YEAST (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) PART 2: LIQUID ALE YEAST PART 3: LAGER YEAST (Saccharomyces uvarum) PART 4: WEISSEN, LAMBIC, MEAD, AND BARLEYWINE STYLES SECTION III: YEAST MANAGEMENT PART 1: HYDRATION PROCEDURE FOR DRY YEAST PART 2: PROPAGATION OF YEAST STRAINS PART 3: YEAST WASHING FOR THE HOMEBREWER PART 4: PARALLEL YEAST CULTURES PART 5: SEND YEAST THROUGH THE MAIL EPILOGUE: KEEPING THIS RESOURCE CURRENT These are both very good resources for this type of question. Get your very own copy today! ** There have also been several questions recently about an all-grain FAQ. Well, there is no such beast that I know of. Any volunteers? Its a pretty big undertaking so it is not for the faint of heart, the short of temper, or the guy with 3 jobs (leaves out Kinney). Takers? ** DAMON_NOEL/HP0800_01 at mailhub.cs.itc.hp.com writes: >While trying not to worry, sanitizing my counterflow chiller is still a >concern. I have been running sanitizer through it prior to each batch >with no rinse, but over time imagine a material build up in it not removed >by a simple rinse afterwards. I have been daunted by the propect of adequate >rinse following use of hydroxide flush, so have not tried that. But the >thought occurred to me, why not just run the boiling wort through for a >bit before turning on the cold water flow? The immediate question is how >to avoid HSA? If the wort were collected with minimum splash and then >put back to reheat prior to final cooling would that be too much oxygen? >George how much is too much? Has anyone else tried this? The easiest way I've found to sanitize the CF chiller is this: while mashing (or before), boil up a gallon of water in your kettle. Run this gallon through the chiller without cooling water and you have sanitized it. It also helps clean out anything that might have built up in there. I do this again with maybe 2 gallons during clean up after brewing. ** Chris Sack writes about an "immersion-in-ice-water" chiller: >My boss and I (both of us are chemists) talked about this very type of >cooler. Our reasons were the same as Bob's. Easy, good heat transfer etc > >We then did some quick, "back of the envelope" type calculations and >discovered that one would need at least 80# of ice to cool a 5 gal. batch >from boiling to 15 deg.C (60 deg.F). We did not take into account that Chris, I've done no calculations at all, but I don't think I use 80# of tap water to cool my 5 gallons of wort. I know you've already made your chiller, but you might check the decimal point on those numbers. ** Dale Orth asks: Does HSA flavor go away with time ? No Dale, HSA gets worse with time. Lets hope your problem is not HSA. If the flavor mellows I would say it is not HSA and that it is another problem. Your alkalinity looks fairly high, which could cause tannin extraction during sparging, but without some pH numbers on the mash and run-off its difficult to tell. Tannins and oxygen don't mix (well actually they mix too well) so it could be a combined effect. Next time take more numbers and then if you have a problem, you'll be better able to shoot it. Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 8:03:32 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Commercial Beer Bitterness Last week Spencer Thomas, Al Korzonas, and I were having an off-line discussion about perceived bitterness levels. I'll let Spencer present his chart of general bitterness if he likes, but here's some commercial beer bitterness examples for everyone's information. This is from an article by Fred Eckhardt in "All About Beer" magazine from 1992. Note that the IBUs are not the "end all" when it comes to perceived bitterness. Other factors such as OG, FG, grain bill, certain ion concentrations, and other factors can affect it (I'm thinking of the sweetness of Bigfoot and maybe the sharp bite of SN Porter as examples). The units are IBU's, BTW. Human Taste Threshold 10-12 Stroh's 10 Bud 12 Labatt's 13 Miller 14 Michelob 14 Coors 15 Weinhard's Ale 17 Heineken 17 Becks 23 Paulaner Original 23 Sierra Nevada Pale Ale 30 Sierra Nevada Porter 30 Anchor Old Foghorn 32 Full Sail Golden Ale 32 Red Hook ESB 32 Anchor Porter 35 Ballard Bitter 35 Anchor Steam 36 Young's Ramrod 38 Sierra Nevada Stout 40 Grant's Scottish Ale 45 Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale 45 Black Hook Porter 49 Bottled Guiness 50 Anchor Liberty Ale 54 Grant's Imperial Stout 54 Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Ale 55 Young's Special London Ale 56 I didn't include every beer Fred presented, just the ones I thought the most common. Fred Eckhardt ends the article with the quote "Don't be afraid, go for the bitter! Only children fear bitterness." Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 10:59:35 CST From: Al Gaspar <gaspar at STL-17SIMA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Re: Sending Homebrew I know people who have taken wine on board planes with them--a bottle is a bottle. I do not know what our friendly postal service rules are; however, the way UPS words its rules "liquor" is not allowed. Well... I interpret that as being distilled spirits, which beer definitely is not. Wrapping each bottle in bubble wrap and packing them in styrofoam popcorn should protect against breakage. Declaring the entire shipment contents as "gift", should cover other interpretations of the word liquor. I mail gifts to neices and nephews all the time, and I don't have to list each and every toy; I just say gifts or presents. Relax, don't worry... Al - -- Al Gaspar <gaspar at stl-17sima.army.mil> USAMC SIMA, ATTN: AMXSI-TTC, 1222 Spruce St., St. Louis, MO 63103-2834 COMMERCIAL: (314) 331-4354 AUTOVON: 555-4354 relay1.uu.net!stl-17sima.army.mil!gaspar Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 94 10:44:17 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Stout vs. Porter/Mash FAQ/Water Useage COYOTE writes about the Crown Brewery: Stout. Ok stout. Not very heavy. Almost porter-like. I may be putting words into his mouth, but it seems that he is saying that porters are lighter than stouts. (pardon me if I'm misreading you). I don't think this is true, from the samples of both that I've tried. Guiness draft is quite light bodied compared to lots of porters I've had. I was reading in Brewing Techniques about stouts (I missed the issue with the article about porters), and I couldn't find anything that distinguishes the two (stouts and porters). I once thought that it was unmalted roasted barley that made a stout a stout. According to the article, only dry stouts have roasted barley, not sweet stouts, oatmeal stouts, etc. Well? Is there *anything* that distuinguishes a stout from a porter? ** Taylor Standlee asks: >Is there a Mashing FAQ or other resource discussing variations in mashing >proceedures and their subsequent effects? Yes, it is called the HBD ;-O ** A long time ago in a galaxy very near here, Russ Wigglesworth wrote: >I'm curious as to the water consumption that the rest of you experience. Russ mentioned that he uses around 70 gallons to make 10 gallons, and I thought "I can do better!". Well, here's my guesses for my 5 gallon batches (all units below are US gallons): Strike: 3.5 Sparge: 3.5 Cleaning: 4.0 (cleaning, sanitizing primary, chiller) Cooling: 12.0 (CF chiller, COLD Colorado water) Clean up: 0.0 (recycle cooling water on brew day) Cleaning: 5.0 (cleaning primary, sanitizing secondary) Cleaning: 10.0 (cleaning secondary, sanitizing keg, etc.) TOTAL: 38 gallons Well, Russ does better than me but I suspect the larger batch size gives him the edge (He says sheepishly). Amazing to think that my mother-in-law bought me a t-shirt that reads, "Save the water, drink more beer!". If she only knew the truth... Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 11:53:34 -0500 (EST) From: VIALEGGIO at ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: Forgot to sign my message! State University of New York at Stony Brook Stony Brook, NY 11794-5475 Victor Ialeggio Music 516 632-7239 11-Jan-1994 11:51am EDT FROM: VIALEGGIO TO: Remote Addressee ( _homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com ) Subject: Forgot to sign my message! Sorry, I forgot to signoff on my message "Re: Starters & Honey" Victor Ialeggio vialeggio at ccmail.sunysb.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 09:04:08 PST From: Chris Weight <chriswei at microsoft.com> Subject: where do all the answers go ? As a begining brewer who just started reading this digest, I see questions every issue that I'd like to hear the responses to, then next issue I see more questions I also wonder about, then next... but I *rarely* see the answers. Given the obvious amount of collective knowledge out there, I assume they are being answered, just directly by e-mail. Perhaps those folks with particularly instructive answers could post them to all of us, or those receiving the answers could collate them and make one posting ? For that matter, is there a compilation of answers to stupid beginners questions anywhere out there? I'm sure the experienced brewers are tired of answering how-did-I ruin-my-batch-of-beer questions, but it will be a while before some of us are ready for counter chillers and mashing techniques :-) Thanks a batch, Chris. Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Jan 1994 12:16:08 +0300 From: "conley" <conley at macgw1.crd.ge.com> Subject: Subject: Kegging and Soda Do any of you keggers (brewers that keg) use your kegging system for soda as well? I would like to set up a keg tap and a soda tap combo and appreciate any help/experience. Are the 3 pin lock kegs that Rich Ryan talks about good for this? Rich Ryan asked about if a CO2 regulator was needed. Yes. The CO2 cylinder is presurized to the point of liquid. At room temperature (70 F) that is 830 psig. A bit high for a beer! or even a keg..... Boom! A single stage regulator is fine. The pressure will stay at 830 until the liquid is gone and then drop off quickly. So, when there is no more liquid CO2 left it is time to refill your cylinder. TIA PS: I work with high pressure gases that is why I know about CO2. Regards, Douglas J Conley. conley at crd.ge.com GE Corporate Research & Development Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 11:33:05 -0600 From: mulier at ee.umn.edu (Grad student Filip Mulier) Subject: New Sanitizing Tool New Sanitizing Tool I have been getting very lazy in my homebrewing, and have not been soaking the labels off my bottles. The labels pose only a minor cosmetic distraction, and help me save face if my friends hate my homebrew since they prove my great ;) taste in beer. To sanitize my bottles, I fill them with bleach water solution and let them sit around for a few days. I empty them, inspect them for alien beings, and fill them up again to store them with bleach/water until bottling time. Lately, I have gotten even lazier, and dread the time required to fill up the bottles with bleach solution by holding the bottles under the solution in a pail (glub, glub, glub, glub, ...). There must be a faster way to fill these bottles with bleach water. I went to the lawn/garden store and found the answer -a fertilizer/pesticide sprayer! I found a really cheap one made entirely of plastic that you attach to a garden hose. It has a dial on top to set the number of tsp. per gallon concentration, and its shaped like a gun -this may even be fun! Reality reared its ugly head and I thought there must be some safety issues that must be addressed before I buy this thing. First of all, I had to be absolutely certain that it was totally new and was not used for spraying pesticide. It also had to be made of plastic which did not release harmful chemicals. The inside smelled plasticy (polyethylene) but not too bad. I bought it and soaked it in warm bleach water for a few days and the smell went away. Water contact time in the device is minimal, anyway. When using this thing, I fill the reservoir with 1/10 bleach 9/10 water since pure bleach is dangerous to spill when wearing clothes. In that case the dial reads tsp. of bleach per 10 gallons. This tool has a fine nozzle stream spray which I use to fill bottles. It could also be used to sanitize hard to fill things like tubing (wort chillers, racking hose). I am still experimenting with this weapon of microbe destruction, what do you think of it? One problem (feature?) it has is that it sprays 30 feet, so you have to be a little careful if you don't want to sanitize your loved ones. Filip Mulier the maker of Fil's Swill Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Jan 94 12:34:00 EST From: "KEVIN CAVANAUGH" <CAVANAUGH at evax5.gdc.com> Subject: Melbourne Florida brewpubs ? Can anyone tell me if there are any brewpubs in the Melbourne Florida area ? I will be traveling there this weekend and would like to check some out during my short stay. Thanks KC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 12:45:45 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Beer Bitterness Ok, since Norm's prodded me into it, here goes. In response to a recent (off-line) query about how much hops to use, I put together a rough bitterness table. FWIW, here it is. For an "average" beer, OG about 1.040, light colored, "normal" water, etc. IBU 12 = threshhold of perception (i.e., not bitter) 15 = typical American lager 20-25 = mild bitterness 25-35 = medium bitterness 35-50 = strong bitterness above 50 = very bitter Beers with more malt will generally taste less bitter, high sulfate levels can increase the perception of bitterness, dark grains contribute their own bitterness, etc. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 10:49:57 -0600 (MDT) From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu> Subject: Filter Units / Mailing -Flying Beer I saw Jim Busch's post on cheap filters. Sorry I missed your e-mail address Jim. But I'd be interested. What kind of price? How feasable is it for us "netters" to coordinate group purchases. Does this fall under the "hey let's not get commercial" section? But really- Jim - Drop me a line with more info. My e-mail address is AT THE END of my post. :) *** RE: Mailing / Flying with homebrew. This seems to re-occur frequently. seems the concensus if US Post it's a no-no to send homebrew, wherease UPS will do it. I've never been asked by the US post about contents as long as it's within the US. So I don't tell them! Worked on several occasions. But: If you worry- 1. have a homebrew to relax your nerves before going to mail. 2. Write one of those "yeast cultures" or "homebrew supplies" on the package, or if they ask. Handle with Care helps too. As for flying: I've also done that frequently. I prefer to carry it on- so only I rough handle it. I've usually only gotten smiles from the security, or a cutesy- "don't drink it on the plain"... one time I was informed that a bottle was leaking. It was only Rainier, so I wasn't very concerned. But I don't believe you are allowed to open any on the plane. I've had intersting conversations with stewardesses, and co-flyers about breweing- of course many offers to sample my carryons. I usually box them up- newspaper, bubble wrap, what have you and securely tape the box shut. Never been asked to open it, or about the contents. Labels on the bottles- saying it's brew might be helpful to dissuade curious customs personel that it is truly not explosive! Now again- this is only w/in the US. Also be sure the box is small enough to fit under a seat, or overhead. I have heard that the baggage compartments ARE pressurized enough that bottles will survive. Just check your shampoo in your bathroom bag to be sure. FWIW: It is note even "legal" to transport booze of any sort into this great state, unless you pay "Utah" taxes. Even mail-order purchases are supposed to be "claimed" here. A Utah-use tax is accessed. Um...er...if homebrewing isn't legal in this state- is it a good idea to claim, and draw attention to the arrival of brewing supplies? *** Finally- a question: What causes metallic tastes? That's not an oxidation problem??? Right? I've used aluminum for a long time, and only recently found hints of a metallic- before-taste- in a couple brews. I don't think it's due to the steel kegs my brews sit in. But one friend claims he feels his beers have a differnt taste from bottles/ vs kegs. I find different "qualitites"- due to carbonation variation, but not "taste" per se. Anywho....on to more brew. *** oh, and NOW finally...about entering contests out of state: 1. My town is lame. No competititons. Salt lake has had some, but I don't even think they were AHA sanctioned. 2. Ya sure, you could call it ego. Or just a matter of wondering... well how good is my homebrew? I like it. Other people like it, but how well does it stack up in terms of "true to style" and compared with other good homebrewers good homebrew. 3. Money to burn? Not likely (that's why I haven't entered yet!) 4. So where are some competitions gonna be happening? *** Chow for Now. John (The Coyote) Wyllie SLK6P at cc.usu.edu *** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 11:03:45 CST From: piatz at tamarack.cray.com (Steve Piatz) Subject: Re: Why do you enter out of state competitions? Bob Jones writes: > Subject: Why do you enter out of state competitions? > > Why do brewers enter out of state competitions, I'm speaking of non-national > competitions? I'm sincerly interested, the Bay Area Brewoff always gets > entries from far far away. Reasons that occur to me are... > > * No local competitions (hard to believe). > * Poor quality judges at local competitions (also hard to believe). > * Curious about how other states judges feel about your beer? > * Ego, need more ribbons. > * More money than brains. > * Fill in the blank. > > Bob Jones > bjones at novax.llnl.gov I can think of one additional reason. * You are the local competition organizer (or registrar) and want to have your beer judged. I seem to recall that the AHA rules do not allow organizers and registrars to enter the competitiion. BTW - why doesn't that AHA have the first round judges (for the national) send their entries to a site different from the one they will judge at? Steve Piatz steven.j.piatz at cray.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 13:07:07 EST From: Steve Scampini <scampini at hp-and.an.hp.com> Subject: no subject (file transmission) Re: My low carbonation problem/steam beer Thanks to all who took the time to answer my questions. The overwhelming consensus is that 52 F, even for lager yeast, means it may take more like a month than one week to properly carbonate in the bottles. A personal observation: logging in on my e-mail and finding literally tens of responses from all over the world to my questions before I even saw my posting was a real kick. I still haven't habituated on the power of this medium. Hope to have something of my own to throw into the information stew in the future. Steve Scampini Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 12:51:00 -0500 (EST) From: GARY SINK 206-553-4687 <SINK.GARY at epamail.epa.gov> Subject: Transporting homebrew Based on recent postings, thought I'd share my experiences on travelling with the nectar of the gods. I have made at least a dozen cross country flights in the past few years, each time carrying a six-pack of my latest in my checked baggage and/or carry-on. I have never been stopped by security guards, etc. (but have gotten some sly looks). When packing for checked baggage, I place the bottles in plastic bags, then wrap them well in t-shirts, socks, whatever. When i get to my destination, the bottles are nice and cool, but never frozen. Unfortunately, I usually have to wait a day for the yeast to settle again. As for mailing, I find no logical reason why it would be illegal to mail something that is not taxed, is not explosive, and is for personal use. But we are talking about USPS and BATF here, so logic doesn't figure in. How do the beer clubs like Beers Across America do it? I think they use UPS legitimately. ________ ------, | |_| | (( | Gary Sink | )) | Sink.Gary.epamail.epa.gov |~~~~~~~~~~~| Seattle, WA \____ ____/ ! ! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 12:24:28 -0600 (CST) From: Phil Hyde <ST2E5 at Jetson.UH.EDU> Subject: Sam Adams Winter Recipe Hey Anybody got a recipe for this excellent brew? I would prefer an ale. Thanks! Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 12:41:20 -0600 (CST) From: Cree-ee-py Boy <BIRMINGH at FNALV.FNAL.GOV> Subject: No yeast infection. Yeast infection, yea or nay? >Here's what happened: 3 Jan 94 1.063 at 65F (pitched yeast) > 15 hours Bubbles begin > 48 hours Bubbles stop, rack to carboy. 1.028 ^^^^^ This has happened to me before. I racked my beer when it quit bubbling, only reading the SG while racking was underway. Mine was 1030 down from 1060. Seems my roommate had turned the heat off while I was gone for Thanksgiving. Anyway, the agitation of racking combined with my moving the fermenter closer to the furnace caused the beer to begin blowing out the top of the carboy. So, no, I don't think you have a wild yeast problem. It looks like your fermentation got stuck for some reason, and was reawakened when you racked the beer. - -- Phillip J. Birmingham birmingham at fne683.fnal.gov "Tampering in God's Domain since 1965!" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 14:09 EST From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> Subject: 5 gallon PLASTIC carboys We have these 5 gallon plastic carboys at work. They look just like the glass ones, except they're made of clear plastic. They have to be food grade, because they hold water. Would these be suitable for fermenting beer? Could I lager in one of these? Is there a reason people always rack into glass? Nabbing a couple of these would save me a LOT of money. Andrew Pastuszak Philadelphia, PA Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Jan 1994 13:20:59 U From: jim_sieja at ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov Subject: Filters Filters I recently purchased an OMNI brand water filter from my local Home Depot with the fittings and filters required to filter my first batch for about $24 which included two filters. I then soaked the filter housing, the lines and my keg attachments in a bleach solution for sanitation. The filters I purchased were 5 micron (nominal) for filtering rust/sediment and were a fabic type, not carbon. The filters were individually packaged in plastic, and not knowing how to properly sanitize it, I assummed it was clean and just flushed the filter with water prior to starting to filter Ed's pale (my brother's killer all grain recipe that clones an anchor liberty ale). Well, after transfering the brew to the first keg and chilling, I proceeded to transfer the pale ale thru the filter and into the recieving keg for carbonation. The fltering went suprisingly fast, and cleanup was easy. My question is can I somehow clean the filter and sanitize it for future batches, or should I just discard the $3 filter and use a new one each time? Also, should I try to sanitize the new filter prior to use, or proceed as I did previously. Any comments or help is appreciated, and can be sent to directly to me at jim_sieja at ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov Thanks for any help, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 11:43:01 PST From: Bob W Surratt <Bob_W_Surratt at ccm.hf.intel.com> Subject: Yeast Re-use Text item: Text_1 Doug wrote in #1321: >Secondly, although I know this has been discussed (i missed some >of it), can anyone give me step by step procedures for reusing >yeast that comes out of the primary or secondary? What are the >problems that may occur? How many times can you re-pitch the same >yeast culture? How can you store the yeast and for how long. I >have just recently started using liquid yeasts and if possible >would like to get a little more mileage out of them. "My" procedure is to collect the slurry off of the bottom of the secondary and save it for re-use. I first sanitize the jar that will contain the yeast by soaking the jar & lid in a bleach solution for about 30-45 minutes and then thoroughly rinsing with hot water. The jar is then capped & allowed to cool. (I've been using 1 lb. honey jars and these seem to give me enough yeast for re-pitching on my next batch.) After the beer has been racked off of the slurry, I swirl the mixture up & then fill up the jar. I keep this in the refrigerator until I'm ready to use it next time. before re-using, allow it to come up to room temperature. (Take it out at the start of your wort boil) Mix it up & re-pitch after the wort has cooled to the proper temps. Activity has always started after about 4 - 6 hours. I've also reused it up to 5 times with no problems. There is also a great Yeast FAQ in the Sierra.Stanford.Edu archives that contains a lot of great information. If you have FTP access, you can download this. Hope this helps. Bob Surratt Orangevale, CA Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Jan 1994 11:57:19 -0800 From: "Dave Suurballe" <suurb at farallon.com> Subject: Strike Temperature Some discussion of computing strike temperature has appeared here this week and I would like to share my experience. I used a simple formula like Barry Moore's for several years, and like him, I had no problem. My mash temperature was usually very close to my target. Then I started brewing ten-gallon batches, and the formula didn't work anymore. The problem is that Barry's model is too simple. His formula says that the amount of heat lost by the hot water is equal to the amount of heat gained by the room-temperature grain. Real life is a little more complicated than that. The mash tun loses heat, too. The water and the mash tun are at strike temperature together, and the grain is at room temperature. They are mixed, and all reach the same temperature. The water cools down, the mash tun cools down, and the grain heats up. So my new formula derives from this: (the weight of the water times its temperature change times its specific heat) plus (the weight of the mash tun times its temperature change times its specific heat) is equal to (the weight of the grain times its temperature change times its specific heat) . The temperature change of the water is the strike temperature minus the resulting mash temperature. Same for the temperature change of the mash tun. The temperature change of the grain is the mash temperature minus the temperature of the grain before mixing. You can now re-write the formula to solve for strike temperature. You will need to know the "specific heat" of water, grain, and your mash tun. The specific heat of water is 1. The "weight of the mash tun times its specific heat" can be learned through experimentation. Put x gallons of 160-degree water into your room-temperature mash tun and measure the new temperature after a few minutes when the system has reached equilibrium. Using the following equation, solve for "weight of the mash tun times its specific heat": (the weight of the water times its temperature change) is equal to (the weight of the mash tun times its specific heat times its temperature change) Now you need to know the specific heat of your grain. You can do this empirically, like Barry. Brew once, and measure the strike and mash temperatures and plug them into the formula. For my brewery the resulting formula is: Malt(Target - Grain) Strike = Target + -------------------- (6 * Water) + 11 "Target" is the desired mash temperature, and "Grain" is the temperature of the grain before mixing with the water. "Malt" is the weight of the malt in pounds, and "Water" is the number of liters of water. These are my favorite units. The "6" comes from the specific heat of the grain. It is not THE specific heat, but the specific heat divided/multiplied by the various conversion factors for pounds and kilograms. It will be different for you if your grain is from a different source and cracked in a different mill. This is for Great Western 2-row cracked in my MaltMill. The constant for Hugh Baird Munich from the same mill is 5.5. The "11" comes from the specific heat of my mash tun. It will definitely be different for you, and this is the term that is missing from Barry's formula. Suurballe Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Jan 94 12:44:21 MST (Tue) From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: beer in the air (re: PET Beer transport?) > Has anyone ever taken homebrew on an airliner? Yes. > I am planning a ski trip to Colorado this February and plan > to bring some homebrew. I was considering using PET bottles for the > simplicity and saftey. Will they stand up to the pressure > changes at 37,000 feet in a presurized cabin?... Yes. In fact, you'll have more cause for concern traveling to the ski area, since that will almost certainly take you above 10,000 ft, while airliner cabins are pressurized to at least the equivalent of 8000 ft. Very roughly, air pressure in an airliner on a long trip (not the low- altitude short hops) is about 75-80% of sea level. You should be just fine unless your beer is either (a) not properly capped or (b) quite overcar- bonated already. >... Has anyone > taken them in the unpressurized baggage compartment?... The baggage compartment is pressurized. It's at the same pressure as the cabin. (Remember that airlines transport animals in baggage!) >...Will they freeze? Not if you give them some reasonable insulation, like packing them inside where your clothes are. The amount of protection you need to be sure the bottles don't get broken ought to be enough to protect against freezing as well. This is less a matter of the baggage compartment _per_se_ than the total trip including possibly sitting outside in a baggage cart in subzero weather. > Should I allow for expansion in filling? I counterpressure bottle > off of keg's so I have filling options. Carbonate at slightly less pressure than normal, just to allow for opening the beer at high altitude at the ski area. It's not enough that you *must* adjust, but it would be a nice touch. --- Dick Dunn rcd at eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA ...Mr Natural says, "Get the right tool for the job!" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 13:05:00 PST From: "SIMPSON, Mark (x-4378)" <Simpson at po2.rb.unisys.com> Subject: Homebrew club list Howdy All! I was preparing a mailer for the first annual "America's Finest City Homebrew Contest" and I was wondering if anyone had the updated copy (or address of) the list of homebrew clubs and their contacts? My e-mail address is: simpson at rb.unisys.com Thanks, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 16:02:43 EST From: Keith MacNeal 11-Jan-1994 1535 <macneal at pate.enet.dec.com> Subject: dry hopping/carbonation/bottle sanitation >Date: Mon, 10 Jan 1994 08:22:31 -0500 (EST) >From: LUKASIK_D at sunybroome.edu >Subject: Dry Hopping, Using Yeast from Primary > >On my fourth batch I decided to try dry hopping (it is an IPA) for aroma. >Could someone let me know if I am following standard/proper procedures for >this as I can not find anything in TCJOHB to give me directions. I racked >from the primary to the secondary but before doing so ground up 1/2 oz of >Cascade into fine particles and paced it into the bottom of the secondary. >The problem as I see it is that 1) there is a chance of contamination due >to no boiling of the hops, and 2) all of the hops floated to the top of the >carboy as it was filling which made a mess of the carboy neck and doesn't >appear to get full utilization of what I put in. We bottled the beer this >weekend and it seems fine (tasty actually). Am I doing this correctly??? I wouldn't bother with the grinding the hops step. You might contaminate the hops and you will make it more difficult to get them out at bottling/kegging time. Don't worry about the hops floating to the top. You'll still get plenty of what you're looking for from the hops. Contamination isn't much of an issue in dryhopping. >Date: Mon, 10 Jan 94 10:50:35 EST >From: Steve Scampini <scampini at hp-and.an.hp.com> >Subject: no subject (file transmission) > >To Worry, wait or to take action: > >This is my first homebrew batch ever. It has been in the bottles >for six (6) days. The first two bottles I opened have very >little carbonation. The facts are: Wait. It can take as long as 2 weeks for adequate carbonation. >* Extract kit, "American Steam Beer". >* One week in primary, three weeks in secondary. >* Fermented at about 52 degrees F. It's not a quite a Steam Beer then. Fermentation at 52 deg. F is more in line with a lager. Steam beer should ferment in the 60-65 deg.F range. >If I were given to worrying, I might think: > >* Little or no yeast in bottles (yeast settled out very well in >secondary). >* I killed the critters (but how?). >* I've introduced a CO2 sucking infection which eats bubbles and >flattens beer (I bet pond scum would do the trick, though there >is very little of this in my kitchen since the fire). >* I am impatient and should wait one full month (Miller >in his book says that the CO2 forms very quickly but takes time >to dissolve in beer. It is hard to believe the little psssst sound >when I open the bottles in all the CO2 that is needed waiting around >to dissolve. How long does it take for the priming sugar to ferment? The answer is -- you're impatient. Since you are apparently also storing the bottles at a relatively low temperature it will take awhile for the priming sugar to ferment. >Should I: >* Wait and not worry and have a store-bought (this is my first batch). >* Store the bottles at a warmer temp, say 65 F.(what, if any, dangers). >* Buy more yeast, make a starter, pry caps off and eye-dropper in >some yeast and recap (court of last resort). >* Scrub down the walls of my kitchen and wash the curtains in bleach? Wait and not worry and/or store the bottles at a warmer temp. 65F will not be a problem. The higher temp will cut down on the waiting time. >Just a little "relax, it will be alright" from my learned, more >experienced digesters may be all I need (this is in fact what my >learned colleague and fellow worker, Jim Grady has offered). Relax, it will be alright. >Date: Mon, 10 Jan 94 16:10:04 PST >From: Bob W Surratt <Bob_W_Surratt at ccm.hf.intel.com> >Subject: First Time Dry Hoping > I have a question concerning dry hopping. After fermenting for 7 > days, my ale was down to a bubble every 2.5 minutes. I racked to > the secondary and added come whole leaf hops. The ale almost > immediately started out gassing. It's now been in the secondary > for 8 days and I'm still getting a bubble every 30 seconds. > > My question is, do I wait until the bubbling slows down with the > hops and ale together, or should I rack the ale off of the hops > into my bottling carboy and wait. I just don't want to bottle to > early and create any bottle bombs. Check the specific gravity with a hydrometer if you want to be absolutely sure it's OK to bottle. If the SG is stable it is OK to bottle. The addition of hops will cause a release of CO2 from the beer as you saw. If you dryhop for the usual 1 to 2 weeks you'll probably see the airlock activity stop. I wouldn't bother getting the hops off the beer for awhile before you bottle. I've been reading all this discussion of using an oven to sanitize bottles. I say why bother. When it's time to bottle I fill up my bathtub with cold water and add bleach and bottles (bottles have been delabled and rinsed earlier) and let soak along with my bottling bucket, hydrometer, hoses, racking cane, etc. Then I use a bottle washer and rinse the bottles out with hot tap water (just a couple of squirts) and allow the bottles to dry on a bottle drying rack. While the bottles are drying I prepare the priming sugar and rack the beer to the bottling bucket. I haven't seen a problem yet with this method (knock wood). Counter-flow vs. immersion chiller. Pick up any textbook on heat transfer and you'll see that counter-flow chillers are more efficient than immersion chillers (I won't bother with the equations here). Whether or not you need that difference in efficiency is an excercise left up to the brewer. Keith MacNeal Digital Equipment Corp. Hudson, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 16:54:21 -0500 (EST) From: jeff344 at voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov (Jeff Berton) Subject: Re: RIMS Thermostats and False Bottoms Mike McCaw writes: > Reading the Rims Summary in Docs on Sierra, one post in the thread really > intrigued me. I have build the standard Morris Rims unit, and the > temperature control (esp calibration of same) is the big problem. On > 1/24/92, a Dave Pike posted an alternative approach using a Motorola 68hc11. > The details were too sketchy for me (a non-EE) to figure out. I sent E > mail to his address, but no joy. Maybe he's no longer there, maybe our > gateway is ####### again. > Has anyone built his device? Does anyone have at least a conceptual diagram > with pin numbers? I'd love to build it and report on it, if only I could > get some guidance. I built my RIMS thinking I'd eventually need a thermostat, but wanting to get it operational more quickly, I just installed a high-load dimmer switch to control the heat output of my in-line immersion heater. Be sure the dimmer switch is properly rated for use with the immersion heater you're using. Mine works so well, I don't think I'll ever go through the expense and trouble of rigging an intelligent thermostat. With the dimmer switch, I just adjust the heat output manually. When I increase the mash temperature, the dimmer delivers full power; and when I'm maintaining a rest temperature, the dimmer rarely needs any adjustment since it only needs to offset the small, constant, heat loss to the environment. Louis Bonham writes: > On the advice of several fellow homebrewers, I recently > modified my RIMS setup to replace the SS screen false > bottom in the mash/lauter tun with one made from perforated > stainless steel. *Major* improvement, IMHO. Practically > indestructible, easily cleaned, and impossible to collapse in a 30 > lb. (or for that matter, 300 lb.) mash. While I use a > converted-keg RIMS (BrewMagic), there's no reason why a perforated > stainless false bottom wouldn't work just as well in a cooler or > ice chest mash tun. > > The friend (and fellow homebrewer) who fabricated this for me > is a professional with access to industrial class equipment and > supplies, and has indicated that he'd be interested in doing more of > these if there's any significant interest. For my converted-keg > mash tun, the sheet is a 15 3/8" round of 1/8" stainless with 3/32" > perforations, cut in half and spot-welded to 15" of continuous 3/4" > stainless steel hinge. It can thus be folded in half, slipped into > the keg, and unfolded so that it's own weight holds it open. He says > it is very easy to make them in just about any size or shape, > particularly for coolers or ice chests which would not require the > hinge. This sounds great, but it also sounds pretty complex and expensive. For my homemade RIMS false bottom, I bought one of those 16-inch diameter metal pizza pans coated with a no-stick material and perforated with many half-inch diameter holes (used to brown the pizza crust better). I covered the pan with stainless steel screening and threaded it on with fishing line. The false bottom fits nicely at the bottom of my sawed-off pony keg RIMS mash tun with a relatively small ullage space under the pan. While not as strong as your 1/8-inch stainless plate, the pizza pan holds the weight of the grain all right. It stays in place during the mash as long as I don't disturb it very much and it's easily removed for cleaning afterwards. I considered just getting one of those Phil's Phalse Bottoms, but I was concerned about reduced wort flow rate during a RIMS mash due to the smaller open surface area. - -- Jeff Berton, Aeropropulsion Analysis Office, NASA Lewis Research Center jeff344 at voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1323, 01/13/94