HOMEBREW Digest #1324 Fri 14 January 1994

Digest #1323 Digest #1325

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Competitions and wort chillers (Ulick Stafford)
  Ice-bath wort chiller ("Dave Suurballe")
  Mail Order Vendors ("Ray Siemens")
  hop removal (Carl Howes)
  Glenn Tinseth:"The imports are in!" (Joel Birkeland)
  reverse immersion cooler ("McCaw, Mike")
  cornelius keg parts? (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer)
  Stoelting questions (Michael J Singer)
  Pumpkin Stout recipes ("Micah A. Singer")
  Anchor Porter clone wanted, Holiday brew results, etc. (Jim Graham)
  Mail Order Homebrew Suppliers ("Paul Austin")
  upper canada, airlines, dry hopping vs. cask (/R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/)
  Use of Flours in Brewing ("/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/")
  Northeast Brewers Supply (drose)
  1993 Hops, Boom or Bust? (npyle)
  RE: UK hops (Jim Busch)
  getting homebrew on airplanes ("FRED WALTER : ASTRONOMY, SUNY STONY BROOK, 516-632-8232")
  Old Crusty.... (Mark W Nightingale)
  Kettle Mashing (Jack Schmidling)
  Dry Lager Yeast and off flavours (John Eustace)
  Pentagonal Immersion Chiller System ("Palmer.John")
  no subject (file transmission) (Steve Scampini)
  Soda Extracts in Homebrew (JEBURNS)
  Re:  Chiller in ice bucket (correction) ("Christopher V. Sack")
  uploading to sierra.stanf (Carlo Fusco)
  Beer travel in GB (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  BrewArt Collection, volume (George Tempel)
  Re: transporting beer (Emily Breed)

Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Archives are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 17:10:40 EST From: ulick at bizet.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) Subject: Competitions and wort chillers Some time back the point was made, by Jack Schmidling, I think, that competition judges should specialize in a few types of beer. After entering a competition recently, I was reminded of this. Some of the comments indicated that many judges may not be totally familiar with the nuances of individual classes, and it is hard to expect such expertise when judges are expected to judge so many different classes of beer. I realise that varitey is the spice of life and that judging a narrow number of classes could get boring, but it might be useful if a qualified judge of another type of beer was paired with an experienced judge at competitions much as novice judges are, until expertise in the new style could be gained. Comments? Chris Sack mentions back of the envelope calculations that indicate that to cool 5 gallons of wort 80 lb of ice are needed. Surely 40 lb were meant- though still a considerable quantity. One way I first tried a wort chiller was much as suggested except I used 60' of copper wound into 2 coils. I placed one in each of my twin sinks with cold water in the former and ice water in the latter. The method failed due to the severe head requiements for flow through both coils and up loops. None the less a 2 stage system could be considered. On the subject of wort chillers, I was at my local store the other day and they have what seems to be an excellent price on 20' x 3/8" OD immersion wort chillers. They say they'll deliver anywhere in the country for $24.95. The name of the store is Mung Brothers and the phone number is (616) 684 2488. __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at darwin.cc.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Jan 1994 15:42:31 -0800 From: "Dave Suurballe" <suurb at farallon.com> Subject: Ice-bath wort chiller Bob Eddy asked for comments about his plans for an ice-bath wort chiller. I have one of these which I use during drought years because it uses less water. My ice-bath chills the wort to just about 65 degrees without throttling the flow, and it takes 4 7-pound bags of ice per five gallons. The chiller works fine, but I don't like it, because four bags of ice cost me about $4, and that's as much as I pay for the malt. I also don't like driving to the store during the boil to buy the stuff. This is not a drought year in California, and I'm back on the counterflow chiller. I can't explain why my ice consumption is so much less that the 80 pounds predicted by the Chemistry Dept at SUNY, but I've noticed something interesting about the chiller that may have something to do with it. The wort warms the ice water as it travels through it, and the warmer water rises to the top and the cooler water sinks to the bottom. I think this makes the thing work better. The wort can get no colder than the coolant adjacent to its exit. Therefore you want the coldest coolant near the wort exit. (That's why counter-flow works so well.) If I constantly stirred the ice bath so the water was the same temperature throughout, the water near the wort exit would be warmer, and so would the exiting wort. So the temperature stratification seems to be a good thing. Life is filled with simple pleasures: during every brew I looked forward to a certain little sensual treat: at the end of chilling, all the ice was melted; there was only liquid in the bath, and I would extend my fingers and gently touch their tips to the surface of the liquid, like a water insect. The water was hot, like a bathtub. Then, slowly and gently, so as to not disturb the water, I would insert my fingers and hand deeper and deeper into the bath, feeling the water get colder and colder. It was a beautiful continuum, from hot at the top to painfully cold at the bottom, all in a space of several inches. I could never feel the same intense continuum coming back out of the water because I'd already disturbed and mixed the upper layers, I suppose. I wonder, does an amateurish description of a sensual treat have any place in an engineering forum such as this? Suurballe Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 03:47:28 PST From: "Ray Siemens" <siemens at unixg.ubc.ca> Subject: Mail Order Vendors Some time ago, I recall a discussion about using mail order firms for supplies, but I don't remember seeing any reccommended or even suggested. Could anyone out there suggest a few good firms? Ray Siemens University of British Columbia siemens at unixg.ubc.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 13:10:42 EST From: sdlsb.dnet!73410%sdlcc at swlvx2.msd.ray.com (Carl Howes) Subject: hop removal I have been filtering the hops (sometimes leaf/plug, sometimes pellet) out of the wort while pouring it into the primary. Considering the vigor of fermentation on my last two batches it's the only reason I didn't wind up with a fermenter bomb. BTW, for those who haven't used it yet, if you use Wyeast #1084 (Irish Ale) USE A BLOWOFF!!! The first batch I used that yeast on (a stout) blew the airlock off the (6 gallon) carboy. Back to my question. Has anyone got a way of doing this that doesn't require cleaning the filter every five minutes? "Why do it?" is a valid answer if you have reason(s) why I need not bother. Private e-mail to the address below preferred, I will summarize and post if I get enough response. Carl 73410 at sdlcc.msd.ray.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 17:27:21 MST From: birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland) Subject: Glenn Tinseth:"The imports are in!" I spoke with Glenn Tinseth this past weekend and he mentioned that the imports are here, (or should be by the time you read this). Joel Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 94 17:08:00 PST From: "McCaw, Mike" <mccaw at wdni.com> Subject: reverse immersion cooler Christopher V. Sack replys to Bob Eddy that "back of the envelope" calculations indicate that it would take 80 pounds of ice to cool 5 gal of wort to 60 degrees. I have cooled five gallons of wort (in a pot) with about 10 pounds of ice and three or four gallons of water (a kitchen sink full of ice and water and brewpot). It came down to seventy degrees F in about 25 minutes (some agitation). Was the heat of fusion of the ice fully accounted for? BTW, a very similar design appeared in the ALL GRAIN special issue of Zymurgy in the article about the 15-gallon pilot brewery in an Idaho basement. I can't remember whether or not they mentioned ice, but it was definitely a coil in a five gallon bucket. Cheers! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 17:53:50 -0800 From: mfetzer at UCSD.EDU (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer) Subject: cornelius keg parts? Could someone point me to an inexpensive source of cornelius keg parts? Mainly the large O rings, and poppet valves. I'm also curious about the pressure release valves. There seem to be two types: one just screws into the lid, the other I'm not sure how to remove/replace. Thanks! Mike - -- Michael Fetzer pgp 2.2 key available on request Internet: mfetzer at ucsd.edu uucp: ...!ucsd!mfetzer Bitnet: FETZERM at SDSC HEPnet/SPAN: SDSC::FETZERM or 27.1::FETZERM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 20:39:16 -0800 (PST) From: Michael J Singer <MJSINGER at OREGON.UOREGON.EDU> Subject: Stoelting questions I hereby grovel for info. and advice from anyone having firsthand experience with Stoelting homebrew equipment. The stuff looks great and of course costs a lot of $. My brothers are considering such a system for me for a wedding present. I want to know if it would be worth their hard earned greenbacks! I know, lucky me.. My questions are: 1) Do you love the stuff? 2) What are the relative merits of the electric vs. the gas burners? 3) Do you like the false bottom for mashing? I'd be grateful to any respondents. For those who are just wondering: a 7 gallon pot, matching burner, false-bottom grain bed, and wort chiller (all of heavy duty stainless) goes about one thousand bucks! cheers Mike Singer Institute of Molecular Biology Univ. of Oregon Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 23:46:47 -0500 From: "Micah A. Singer" <Micah.A.Singer at williams.edu> Subject: Pumpkin Stout recipes I am getting ready to brew a pumpkin stout beer and I am not exactly sure what type of recipe I should be using. I have heard recipes ranging from real pumpkin to that pumpkin concoction that you put into pumpkin pies. I was wondering what kind of relative benefits each type of different stout affords and if anybody has a tried and true Pumpkin stout recipe they would care to part with. Micah Singer (Micah.A.Singer at williams.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 16:35:47 -0600 (CST) From: jim at n5ial.mythical.com (Jim Graham) Subject: Anchor Porter clone wanted, Holiday brew results, etc. I'm looking for yet another clone recipe.... Actually, I'm looking for two recipies, but the second may be a bit difficult. :-) If anyone has an extract clone of Anchor Porter, I'd really love to know about it.... I'm not able to do all-grain brews right now---no equipment, no space for equipment, no budget to buy equipment, etc., so I am limited to an extract brew. I can handle specialty grains if it's something where I can just steep it in a grain bag while bringing the water from tap temps to a boil. Also, even though this isn't really a beer, does anyone know how to make a reasonable clone of a Pangalactic Gargleblaster? :-) (Non-Hitchhiker's fans, ignore this....) Ok, on to the holiday brews, and the results. I brewed two different Christmas ales (I was hoping my dad would like at least one of them...no such luck---but then, in his opinion, the best beer he's ever had was a can of Keystone...). The first ale was a spice brew, and the second was the same ale with raspberries added. Both of these were originally planned to be 5 (US) gallon batches, but the S.G. was so high I decided to go ahead and make them 6 gallon batches. CHRISTMAS ALE #1 For 6 (US) gallons: 1 tin (6.6 lbs) Ireks Bavarian malt extract (Munich light unhopped) 2 lbs honey 2 oz fresh ginger root (*) (**) 2 tsp nutmeg (*) 4 tsp cinnamon (*) 1 oz Cascade (boil --- 15 minutes) 1/2 oz Saaz (last 2 minutes) 2 packets dry ale yeast (type of yeast? plain old ``ale yeast'') (*) Spices, etc.---add these during last 2 to 5 minutes of boil. (**) Ginger was just peeled and sliced (moderately thin---around 0.5 mm to 1 mm). CHRISTMAS ALE #2 Follow recipe for #1, and then: After wort (still concentrated) cools to 170 deg. F, add 3 lbs 12 oz (wanted 4 lbs) frozen raspberries in grain bag. Steep until wort cooled enough to raise level to 5 US gallons. Remove raspberries, bring up to 6 gallons, pitch yeast, and wait...rather impatiently. Specifics: Ale #1 O.G.: 1.050 Ale #2 O.G.: 1.050 Ale #1 F.G.: 1.008 Ale #2 F.G.: 1.010 #1 was brewed on 9 December, and #2 was brewed on 7 December (the numbering, obviously, was adjusted to make explanation of the recipies easier <grin>). Both were ``sampled'' on Christmas eve and Christmas day, and were good, but the spices and raspberries were a bit over-powering. Now, however, both brews have mellowed out, and are, to say the least, OUTSTANDING! And to think I thought the Sam (tm) Adams (tm) Winter (tm) Lager (tm) was (tm ... oops, he hasn't claimed that one yet ... has he?) was good....both of these make that one look like, well, use your imagination. :-) I would like to find out what these would taste like after a year or two, but, ummm, that's not very likely.... Oh, btw, both of these brews seem to have a *VERY* high surface tension. Anyone have any idea what might have brought this about? Also, I'd expected the version without the raspberries to have a lower specific gravity, but it didn't (all measurements were corrected for temperature, were taken right after vigorous mixing of the wort, etc.). Anyone know why this was the case? Shouldn't the sugar from the raspberries have raised it? Or by steeping them as I did, was the difference a difference in flavor only? Later, --jim PS: One thing to keep in mind when looking at any brew that I particularly like---I don't like brews that have too much of a hop bitterness (I used to, but I suppose my tastes have changed---I now prefer a much smoother flavor that's somewhere between bitter and sweet), and I prefer brews that are medium- to full-bodied. - -- 73 DE N5IAL (/4) < Running Linux 0.99 PL10 > jim at n5ial.mythical.com ICBM: 30.23N 86.32W || j.graham at ieee.org Packet: N5IAL at W4ZBB (Ft. Walton Beach, FL) E-mail me for information about KAMterm (host mode for Kantronics TNCs). Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 94 07:33:45 EST From: "Paul Austin" <huckfinn at vnet.IBM.COM> Subject: Mail Order Homebrew Suppliers For those in the NY area, I recommend Tillson Hobby Emporium. They sell beer, wine, soda, cider, and even vinegar making supplies. I've always found them to be helpful, but I don't know much of their mail order business goes as I always drive there. I know they have an 800 number but I can't find it. For those who can afford the call, try 1-914-352-9001. Ask about the Brew Club Discount. For those who would like an 800 number, send me a note or wait until I can post it. DISCLAIMER: I am not affiliated with the Tillson Hobby Emporium in any way other than being a paying customer. There was a NE Brewer's supply mentioned in the last issue, 1-800-352-9001 (Providence RI), but the person who mentioned it said they weren't too hot on customer service. Would it be possible for someone to put together a FAQ with a bunch of supplier's numbers in it? Since I've mentioned it, will I now get slated with the job? Anyone else think it is a good idea? Or is that misuse of the Internet? Paul Austin Brewer of Malcolm's Catskill Amber since 1993 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 1994 09:39:07 -0500 (EST) From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: upper canada, airlines, dry hopping vs. cask Conley asked if anyone has visited the Upper Canada brewery. I was there sometime in the '80's and remember the beer was good, the tour fair, and the guide less knowledgable than most novice homebrewers. The thing I remember most about the brewery is a lot of broken glass on the bottling line. I brought this subject up before which led to much discussion. Different airports and security systems treat homebrew differently. Some want to see if the bottles are sealed others want to see labels, others don't care. The safest way is to put it in your luggage if you can risk breakage. The pressure inside the luggage compartment is the same as the cabin according to those knowledgeable. For Jim Busch. What's the difference between dry hopping and cask hopping? Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 1994 10:01:00 EST From: "/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/" at mr.cber.fda.gov Subject: Use of Flours in Brewing I'd like to initiate a little discussion on the use of grain flours in brewing. A friend and brewing partner just acquired a significant amount of rice flour, and he'd like to use some of this in his all-grain mashes. I checked the homebrewing literature, and there is not much out there on the subject. Papazian briefly mentions using wheat flour as an adjunct, adding it directly to the mash (as with flaked or pre-cooked grains). Miller and Noonan don't mention the use of flour at all. Dave Line, in the "Big Book of Brewing", provides the most info. I quote: "There are several specialized wheat flour adjuncts available on the amateur market. Their main attribute is to act as diluents to high nitrogen malts with the benefit of maintaining, at the same time, the body and fullness of the beer. The flavour is slight and unobtrusive, which makes these adjuncts ideal partners for lager malts where the delicate hop flavours must be unaltered in the finished beer. The big disadvantage is that the flour increases the tendency to restrict the porosity of the "goods" during mashing that can result in set mashes and flooding during the sparging process" Line's advice is sensible, but it would be helpful to know the optimum amount of flour to use without running the risk of a set mash. Also, I'm curious as to which other flours (rice, rye, corn, etc) brewers have used successfully. Rice, of course, provides lightness and a clean flavor to beer by lowering the protein and polyphenol content of the mash. It also has 80% extract potential (according to Noonan). My guess is rice flour would accomplish much the same function. I'd like to hear the experiences of other brewers who have successfully used flours (of all types) in their mashes. Bill Ridgely (Brewer, Patriot, Bicyclist) __o ridgely at a1.cber.fda.gov -\<, ridgely at cber.cber.fda.gov ...O/ O... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 1994 10:58:20 -0500 (EST) From: drose at husc.harvard.edu Subject: Northeast Brewers Supply Hello: In the last Digest, someone mentioned Northeast Brewer's Supply, saying that their customer service had gone way down. Just another data point. When I first ordered from them, I was amazed at the service; I ordered 50lbs of American 2-row and had it (in Cambridge, MA) in less than 24 hours. Some months later, I ordered some hops and things, and there was a substantial delay; at this time I believe they were in the process of moving to a new (bigger) warehouse, and that caused the delay. However, more recently, service seems to be up to it's old standards. So, if you tried NBS and had trouble, I would recommend trying them again; it looks to me like they are doing pretty well, and that their customer service problems might have been transitional. Their prices (50lbs American 2-row for $26) are outstanding. No affiliation, etc. Just a regular old customer. d. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 94 8:58:57 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: 1993 Hops, Boom or Bust? Bob Jones writes: >Got this note from a friend in England. Any comments? > >me to him > I just got my hands on some good fresh East Kent Goldings and >me to him > Fuggles. I'm >me to him > starting to think about my next real ale. > >him to me >That's pretty good going - I hear there was a bad harvest this year, >him to me >and most of the UK suppliers are selling American Willamette (I >him to me >think) >him to me >as "Goldings substitute". Ironic really. Yikes! I was just planning a nice British bitter with Fuggles and Goldings. I have some good Fuggles plugs, but do you mean I won't be able to find any good Goldings? Yikes! One more thing: I thought Willamette was grown as a Fuggles substitute. Maybe they are using BC Goldings as a EK Goldings sub... Another semi-related comment I would make: this year's Cascade and Willamette crops appear to be quite good in the US, in terms of AA%. This no doubt will make the big brewers happy, as they will be able to use less. The Cascades are somewhere between 7-8%, the Willamettes 6-7%. If the crop was healthy too (big yields), then there should be some partying going in Washington and Oregon this winter. Is this likely to alter the humulene/myrcene ratio drastically? I'd be curious to hear if George Fix (or anyone) has any information on these components. For the homebrewer (or any brewer trying to make a top-quality beer), if they become more and more like the high-alpha hops, then it is net loss, rather than a net gain. Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 1994 11:11:37 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: RE: UK hops > From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) > Subject: UK hops > Got this note from a friend in England. Any comments? me to him > I just got my hands on some good fresh East Kent Goldings and me to him > Fuggles. I'm me to him > starting to think about my next real ale. him to me >That's pretty good going - I hear there was a bad harvest this year, him to me >and most of the UK suppliers are selling American Willamette (I him to me >think) him to me >as "Goldings substitute". Ironic really. Well, interesting indeed. Just yesterday, I talked to Morris Hanbury who assured me the containers of EKG '93 have just arrived. Shipments from this vendor should go out this week or early next. Maybe we pay more , so they ship all these great hops to us :-) ?? What a pity for the UK. Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 1994 11:09:35 -0500 (EST) From: "FRED WALTER : ASTRONOMY, SUNY STONY BROOK, 516-632-8232" <FWALTER at astro.sunysb.edu> Subject: getting homebrew on airplanes My (limited) experiences with bringing homebrew on airplanes: 1. I carried a box containing a dozen bottles of homebrew through security and onto a United flight at Stapelton (Denver), no questions asked. I was not asked about the contents of the box at security! This was in about 1985. 2. I checked a case of homebrew on a United flight at LaGuardia (New York) in 1991. The airline personnel put the case inside 2 ski bags (I already had a plastic garbage bag inside the case); they did not care about the contents, but didn't want any spills in case a bottle broke. There was no problem. (Note: the cargo area is pressurized and heated - they put animals in there.) 3. I attempted to carry a six-pack of homebrew through security at Islip (Long Island) in 1990. Security would not let unlabelled bottles through as carry-on baggage, unless I could prove what the contents were. I did this by drinking a bottle then and there, and carried the other 5 with me onto the plane. It probably does not hurt to call ahead to both the airport and the airline... Fred Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 94 07:58:54 PST From: night at mapme19.pen.tek.com (Mark W Nightingale) Subject: Old Crusty.... Mark Fryling writes: >One more question. I have been looking wherever possible for Rogue's Old >Crustacean Barleywine but I cant seem to find it. Is this stuff available in >bottles anywhere? The things I have read say that its great stuff. Yes... it is bottled!!! This barleywine is precious stuff. It so happens to appear in my local supermarket at least once a month. If you are in to barleywines... it is a must try. I live in southwest Washington...not overly far from where it is brewed...however, I'm not sure of their distribution range... good luck in finding it!!! It should be available at least all over Oregon, some of Washington and Northern California. While you are at it... try Rogue's Chili Pepper brew.... I think it is quite tasty! Haben Sie Durst? -Mark Nightingale Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 94 10:14 CST From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Kettle Mashing >From: btalk at aol.com >My question - I've never seen one , so what is/how does an Easymasher work?? Here is a thumbnail sketch. For complete info, email to me. BRASS SPIGOT FEMALE | CONNECTOR | | ________ | | \_____ \ | | | | | ____ ________|_|___****____|_____ COPPER TUBING / _______X____ ____ ____ \ / / / ****____| \ \ / SS SCREEN /_/ | \ \ | | \ \----################## | \-----################## -----BOTTOM------------------------------ FIG. 1 Fig. 1 shows an exploded view of the EASYMASHER. The strainer is simply a 2 x 6 inch piece of screen, rolled into a six inch tube and clamped to the copper tube. The last half inch is bent over itself to seal it off. The copper tube has a double bend in it to allow it to be rotated so that the end is right on the bottom leaving almost no wort behind. It is easily removed for cleaning. The spigot passes through a clearance hole drilled in the kettle and is retained by the female connector and a washer to take up the treads and make a tight fit. >From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> >Subject: RE: mashing >Jack writes: >> Subject: Kettle Mashing >> The mash should be allowed to settle for 15 to 30 minutes during which time you should get at least some water heated so you can start sparging. If you use something like a coffee pot to heat it in you can sparge as fast as you can heat the water. >15 - 30 seems excessive to me. Not sure this is even worth commenting on but if 15 minutes seems to be excessive, what settling time seems reasonable to you? I can't imagine much settling taking place in less than 15 minutes and I suspect much of the trouble that many beginners have with sparging is a result of rushing into it. > The important thing is to understand that sparging is not normally a batch > process. You want to keep an inch of water over the grain at all times > during sparging until you are within a gallon or two of your required wort > volume. Then you can just let it run dry but you need to get a feel for > how much liquid is held in the grain and essentially lost. <There are many successful micros who allow the water bed to drop below the grain bed prior to adding additional sparge water. No doubt... but that still does not constitute a batch process nor does it make it a good idea. Furthermore, you are once more falling into the "if the big guys do it, it must be good for homebrewers" syndrome. What works well or gets by in a large commercial operation my be totally inappropriate for a home brew sized batch. Lot's of corners can be cut and still produce good beer but there is no physical argument for letting the water level get below the top of the grain bed and a very good reason not to. > The ability of the properly designed flase bottom to handle this is the assumption, something I suspect the Easy***** is incapable of. This has already been refuted by one user so I will not belabor the point. I will however, point out that one of the most interesting aspects of the easymasher has been the number of bad guesses made about the problems preventing it from being practical. I doubt that any successful product has been so negatively received by the "experts" and so positively approved by the people who have taken the trouble to use it. I have no idea how many people have built them from my instructions but I have sold about a thousand and have nothing but positive feedback. All I need to do is to make a large scale model for the micro business and the false bottom will become a museum curiosity. >From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) >Why do brewers enter out of state competitions, I'm speaking of non-national competitions?.... >* Fill in the blank. As a manufacturer of homebrew equipment it is nice to prove that the equipment works by citing ribbons and awards for beer made with it. The more awards, the better.. (I guess) This has been particularly true with the EASYMASHER (tm) because so many "experts" insist that it can't work. >From: BMOORE.UNIX11 at mailsrv2.eldec.com (BMOORE) >Subject: guessless mashing >>From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) >>The most obvious is that there is no guessing about "strike" temp. >>Yousimply shut off the heat when you get there and add more as it >>cools to maintain temp. >Here's a technique I use to take the guesswork out infusion mashing. It involves calculating the thermal energy needed to raise the grist to the proper temperature and balancing that with the thermal energy lost by the strike water..... This is followed by 150 lines of instructions on how to avoid guessing. I seem to have made a poor choice of words. My point was that neither guessing nor caluclating are required with kettle mashing. One simply watches a thermometer and stirs occasionally.... keeps it real simple for us senile old timers. js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 94 10:58:44 EST From: John Eustace <3JCE1 at QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA> Subject: Dry Lager Yeast and off flavours Hi all, I've been advising a local BOP on all-grain brewing and yesterday the owner called me with an intriguing problem. Seems that for some reason his all- grain lagers have the flavour and aroma of "a dairy barn". I assumed this meant that it had a grainy or grassy flavour and aroma and suggested several reasons why these aromas might be cropping up. But then I asked him how his ales were turning out and he told me that they showed no signs of the same flavour or aroma. Of course, I told him right away that the problem must be yeast related. He's using a dried Maori lager yeast (ironically, it comes from Australia, not New Zealand) and, though I think this yeast is pretty awful, he is not at all anxious to get rid of it because it works fine (in his opinion ) for the all extract lagers he brews at his establishment. So my questions are: first, am I correct in assuming that the problem is yeast related given that the processes and grains are exactly the same for his ales and lagers? and secondly, why might the lager yeast be producing these flavours when the ale yeasts are not? A brewers puzzle for all. Cheers JE ps. I suggested he use a neutral ale yeast in a lager recipe to see if it makes any difference. Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Jan 1994 08:35:48 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Pentagonal Immersion Chiller System Hi Group, Well, I've been telling myself for the last two weeks that nobody really cares what John's immersion chiller system is, but after Wednesday's HBD, I couldn't help myself. I had read in the HBD last year about a guy that presented his 3 lobed triangular design, getting more tubing into a smaller area. He commented that more lobes would probably be even more effective. Also the idea was presented by (someone) that suspending the chiller at the top of the kettle allowed convection currents to do the stirring work. Okay, I designed a five lobed arrangement to increase the length of tubing used. (Hey Rocky, watch me try to do an ascii drawing!...) _ (0) Ugh. Well, picture a symmetrical pentogram X with the copper tubing wrapping from the inside, _ / \ _ around some 3 inch circular forms in a retrograde (0X X0) manner, back to the inside and on to the next form. \ __ / You end up with a small pentogram inside, with a X X circular lobe coming off each corner. (0) (0) This design yielded a chiller 6 inches high, 12 inch across and used 50 feet of quarter inch copper tubing which cost 10 bucks. Then my wife told me that we could not use that much water, this is S. Cal., conserve water, (crow sounds...) So I had to buy a pump to recirculate my water. $80.00 >:{ I use two ten lb blocks of ice in the bucket of water and run that to and from the chiller. ice = 3 bucks, no problem. This chiller cools my 3 gallon boils in 15 minutes to 70 degrees. Not bad. I should comment that building the wrapping form for the tubing used 3 inch dia PVC tubing with end caps, held thru the center to a piece of plywood with carriage bolts. Actually wrapping the fifty foot coil was a royal pain but it was worth it. I retrospect, perhaps I should have used 3/8 tubing for better cooling water throughput. But, wrapping 3/8 like this may not work well...? PS. I am working on a Sierra Nevada Porter Clone this weekend, I will let you know how it turns out next month sometime. John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P palmer#d#john at ssdgwy.mdc.com (Its hard to work in a group when you are omniscient. - Q in Star Trek NG) (New NASA Management Slogan) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 94 11:38:54 EST From: Steve Scampini <scampini at hp-and.an.hp.com> Subject: no subject (file transmission) Back to the well for more help: Does anyone have a good mail-order source of standard chemistry hardware such as flasks, glass tubing, flexible tubing, stoppers, etc.. I am aware of the big houses like Cole-Parmer (sp?) and Fischer Scientific; I am looking for a smaller, funkier kind of place where the owner answers the phone and deals with small orders (or a retail outlet in the Boston area). I thought maybe some photographer/brewers (a family album of memorable brewing moments?) out there might also be tapped into such a source. I also realize that some mail-order brewing supply houses sell a small variety of this stuff; I thought there may be a source with more variety. My immediate need is for a yeast starter container as well as some stuff to set up some kitchen chemistry demonstrations for the local grammer school. On another note: I used an immersion cooler for a Thanksgiving boil session. I did the deed in an open garage. Outside temp about 45 F. I ran about 200 feet of garden hose from the outside spigot over the cold, cold ground ahead of the cooler. I filled the hose prior to the session. I think this quick and dirty prechiller got the cooling off to a brisk start. There is alot of cold to be had outside in the Northeast this winter to be put the benefit of personkind. Thanks in advance, Steve Scampini Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 94 11:59:12 EST From: JEBURNS at ucs.indiana.edu Subject: Soda Extracts in Homebrew There has been a discussion regarding the use of fruit flavorings in homebrew. I was wondering if anyone has tried using soda flavorings such as root beer,ginger beer, sasparilla etc.. I almost dumped half a bottle of extract in my last batch but decided to wait. Any actual experiences would be helpful. As a side note has anyone thought of using auto heater cores for a reverse immersion chiller. The chiller has been described recently, a coil of copper tubing in a bucket of ice. The heater cores have lots of fins and are good at conducting heat. I would worry about the solder that is used on them and the fact that they carried anti- freeze. If they could be sanitized a series of them linked together would make a great chiller. Responses to JEBURNS at ucs.indiana.edu Thanks, Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 1994 12:06:18 -0500 (EST) From: "Christopher V. Sack" <cvsack at mailbox.syr.edu> Subject: Re: Chiller in ice bucket (correction) Dear netters, I was informed by e-mail that my calculations were incorrect. I must admit that I used the wrong value for the "heat of fusion" (the heat required to melt one gram of ice) when calculating the amount of ice required to cool the 5 gal of wort. I have no idea where I came up with this value. The amount of ice required to cool 5 gal of boiling wort to 60 deg.F using the chiller coil in an ice bucket method is closer to 40#, not 80# as I reported previously. My apologies to all. Chris +--------------------------------------------------------------------+ | ___ ___ Christopher V. Sack | | / ) | / / ) | Graduate Student | | / | / (___ __ __ | Dept. of Chemistry | | / | / ) __ ) / )| / State Univ. of N.Y. | | / | / / / / / | / Syracuse, NY 13210 | | (____/* |/* (____/ (__\ (__/ |/ \ <cvsack at lor.syr.edu> | +--------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 1994 10:21:00 -0500 From: carlo.fusco at canrem.com (Carlo Fusco) Subject: uploading to sierra.stanf Hello everyone, I want to post some new items to the archives at sierra.stanford.edu, but I no longer have FTP ability. Can I email the items to sierra and have them uploaded? BTW, what I want to upload is the updated version of my "brewing online" article and a spreadsheet recipe formulator that I have been working on. Thanks Carlo - --- * Freddie 1.2.5 * email: carlo.fusco at canrem.com Sharon,Ontario,Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 94 12:47:35 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Beer travel in GB Found this online: Weekend beer breaks are organised by the tourist office in Burton-on-Trent, where there are still five breweries, ranging in size from the huge Bass and Allied plants to the Burton Bridge Inn brewery tap. There are also beer tours available in Sheffield and Dudley. ``Interest in beer tends to be greater where there are relatively few other natural attractions,'' a Camra spokesman commented unkindly. One travel agency promoting beer tours, Magic Compass (0530- 815353), specialises in taking British drinkers to visit breweries and beer festivals abroad. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 1994 13:02:06 +0000 (U) From: George Tempel <tempel at MONMOUTH-ETDL1.ARMY.MIL> Subject: BrewArt Collection, volume BrewArt Collection, volume #1 I am posting the following and submitting the self-extracting archive (in binhex "hqx" form) to sierra.stanford.edu and sumex-aim.stanford.edu (info-mac). Check for the file "BrewArt_1.hqx" on sierra.stanford.edu in a few days (giving Steve Hansen a chance to move it into the proper archive location). Thanks to all those who inspired this collection! - --------------- Welcome to the BrewArt Collection (for Macintosh)! copyright 1994 George (Ty) Tempel ABSTRACT: This collection is the first edition of a set of brewing related clip art that I am in the process of creating and compiling. I have used some of these elements on my beer labels, and a few of my network-friends have found them helpful as well. DESCRIPTION: The artwork is provided in the form of PICT files, which are easily handled by nearly all major applications in the Macintosh universe. I considered converting some stuff to EPS (postscript) format, but not everyone out there has access to nice postscript printers, such as myself. Since the files are PICTS, it is feasible to convert them to one or more various DOS/Windows formats, but you will loose information in the conversion process. Since I don't have a DOS/Windows machine (insert large grin here), I cannot do the conversion for you, so it is left as an exercise for the user (didn't you hate it when textbooks would do that?). Just for the record, I created the artwork using Canvas 3.5, Color-It 2.3.2, and Adobe Streamline 3. Some of the artwork is pre-colored, but you can change that if you like. I have an accellerated Macintosh II (Dove Racer, 32MHz), a DeskWriter inkjet printer, and the Logitech ScanMan. I also find that if you wish to use Avery labels, try to find a box of #5164, which are 3.33" x 4". They come right off of the bottle when you use a little B-Brite cleanser, and some graphics programs support the Avery label formats for templates (mine didn't, however). THE FINE PRINT: This collection is released as brew/credit-ware (I know, an awkward term, but you'll see that it fits). If you decide to use any of the clip art from the collection, you must give me, George (Ty) Tempel, partial credit for the artwork and send me a bottle of the homebrew that you've labelled. It's just that simple. No messy fees, etc. Please remember that it is unlawful to send alcohol via the US Postal Service, but private carriers (UPS, FedEx, Airborne, etc), _can_ ship the stuff, just make sure that the brew is securely packaged (try placing the bottles into tight plastic bags just in case...). I have shipped several bottles without problems, but sometimes I label the contents as "food", "yeast culture equipment", or "glassware" and have never had a problem (knock on formica). I can be reached via the following: George Tempel 65 West George Street Freehold, NJ 07728 netromancr at aol.com Comments and suggestions are welcome, and stay tuned for more collections to be released at later dates! - ------Volume #1 Contents------- animals: ram head pict equipment: enamel kettle (closed) enamel kettle (open) mash tun glassware: glass pitcher, empty pint glass, empty raven's head mug short pint of stout single stylized stein woodcut stylized stein grain...: grain head grain head #2 stylized grain heads pict stylized grain pict hops...: hop flower hop leaf hop plants pict hops vine illustration stylized hop flower woodcut style hop leaf & cones misc label stuff: bronze-like oval label metal placard oval/rect label spices wine cellar - --------------------------- happy brewing! ty Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 1994 10:20:26 -0800 (PST) From: Emily Breed <emilyb at netcom.com> Subject: Re: transporting beer Last summer, I carried twelve bottles of homebrew in my carry-on luggage to England. I'd left the labels on the bottles, in hopes that that would reassure any nervous security folks, but they never even asked to look at the bottles. Ymmv, but I was pleased to get through international security into a paranoid airport like Gatwick with no problems. - -- Emily Breed Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1324, 01/14/94