HOMEBREW Digest #1327 Tue 18 January 1994
Digest #1326
Digest #1328
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Miscellany (RONALD DWELLE)
calculation of specific gravity (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL at igate.abbott.com>
Tillson Science and Hobby Emporium (8-293-5810 or (914))" <huckfinn at vnet.IBM.COM>
Pumpkin "Stout" (Anthony Johnston)
kegging (grayson john)
SNPA Yeast /Culture Question (kesicki)
Beer Across America (Michael Howe)
Re: Pangalactic GargleBlaster (Patrick Seymour)
Insulin Tests (Mr. Raytrace)
LACTIC ACID IN BEER (tony.storz)
list of home brew clubs (Scott Murphy)
mail order FAQ (Don Pickerel at Micom.com)
Clone for Pangalactic GargleBlaster (Earle M. Williams)
Bahamian Brew and NYC Pubs (Todd Anderson)
"Dairy barn" lagers/Acid blend (korz)
Pangalactic Gargleblaster (Steve Jacobs)
Oxygen vs. Air (Dave Smucker)
A different kind of wort chiller (?) (scnsystems)
Pot Boiler? (Bob Eddy)
Hello and aeration stone ??? (steevd)
Help (diacetyl) (Jimmy Patrick)
Clear plastic carboys et Bizzarre Beer recipies (yeebot)
Tahoe area breweries (Jim King)
Ft. Walton area Brewshop (Jim King)
carboys/groc. brewing? (Ivan Shantz)
Plastic Carboys (Richard Nantel)
Help With Heat-- (Ron Rushing)
More shipping talk ("THE FOURWHEELIN' 'TALIAN WANNABE JOKEMEISTER.")
Ur Maerzen, Plastic Carboys (darrylri)
Ur-typ ("Thomas J. Ramsey")
Re: 1st batch / Kitzinger Yeast (npyle)
Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #1325 (January 15, 1994) (mattb18591)
How Do I Add Airlock to Keg? (Phil Brushaber)
Two worts, One Secondary Steam Beer (XLPSJGN)
Wyeast #1084 (P Brooks)
Electric heaters for primary? (David Tetenbaum)
Plastic Carboys (GNT_TOX_)
plastic carboys (GNT_TOX_)
cornelius keg parts source (17-Jan-1994 1001 -0500)
clip art for labels (glasheen)
Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
(Articles are published in the order they are received.)
Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc.,
to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if
you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU),
then you MUST unsubscribe the same way!
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
Archives are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu.
(Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from
listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a
message to that address to receive listserver instructions.)
Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored.
For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 10:24:42 EST
From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE)
Subject: Miscellany
A couple of notes on threads: (sorry, work's been
interfering with my life, and these are a bit out-of-date,
maybe):
Someone asked about plastic carboys. I've started using the
five-gallon kind and am pleased so far. I got it by paying a
$7 deposit and buying 5 gallons of "spring" water at a
local water shop. Only one of the water dealers in the area
would do this--the rest wanted me to sign contracts to have
water delivered to my office for the next century before
they'd let me take out a plastic jug.
I went to the plastic carboy after I broke my second
glass carboy, dropped it 3 inches to the cement basement
floor and it shattered. It was partly a matter of
have-five-homebrews-relax-five-times-and-fumble-finger-while
-cleaning-the-carboy, but also I find that a strong chlorox
solution makes the surface of the carboy very slippery. If I
ever get glass again, I'm also going to buy a pair of those
gloves that NFL wide-receivers wear.
The plastic carboy is working okay, but it's not as
nice to use as glass--you can't see through and watch the
trub settling or the bubbles burping as nicely. I also think
the plastic is harder to clean than glass, but that's hard
to tell.
another thread...
I saw someone was bad-mouthing Freshops out in Oregon
and I just wanted to say that I put in my first order a
couple months ago and was very happy with service and
product both. The guy on the phone told me up front about
the "handling" charge, so it was no surprise. I'll order
from them again. And, of course,
no-commercial-involvement-whatsoever-except-for-
the-half-mill-invested-in-the-company-and-my-obligation-
to-keep-the-owner's-wife-happy-whenever-the-owner-
is-away-doing-whatever-it-is-that-hop-owners-do-that-makes-
their-wives-so-lonely-etcetera-etcetera.
another thread...
If someone is re-doing the yeast-faq, a good piece of
information for some of us would be a comment of performance
at non-ideal temperatures. Like many, my brewery is in the
basement and I can't even hope to control temperature even
if I wanted. I use mostly California Lager and Canadian Ale
yeasts (sorry don't have the brands & numbers at hand)
because the lager works well at higher-than-lager temps and
the ale works well at lower-than-ale temps. I would like to
try other yeasts but hate to invest the money if they're not
going to work well or work at all, besides which my supply
can barely keep up with the demand as is, and if I have one
ruined batch I'll have to go squander money on store-bought.
And, thanks to all for all the good, interesing
threads & thoughts on HBD, a good way to start the work-day.
Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu at Internet)
The Grand River Brewery
"It Can't Taste As Bad As The Water!"
Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Jan 1994 08:57:00 -0600 (CST)
From: "Michael D. Hansen (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL at igate.abbott.com>
Subject: calculation of specific gravity
I am looking for charts, tables, etc. on how to calculate specific gravity for
different combinations of malt extract, spray dried malt, specialty grains,
adjuncts, batch size, etc. For example, if I brew an X gallon batch with Y lbs
of malt extract, Z lbs spray dried malt and W lbs of 2 kinds of specialty
grains how does one calculate what the specific gravity SHOULD be. Does anybody
know of any good references that could provide this? TNCJOHB gives a VERY
limited discussion of this in one of the appendices but it is not sufficient
for most cases.
TIA and brew on my friends!
Mike Hansen (HANSENMD at RANDB.ABBOTT.COM)
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 10:41:48 EST
From: "Paul Austin (8-293-5810 or (914))" <huckfinn at vnet.IBM.COM>
Subject: Tillson Science and Hobby Emporium
I wrote in the last digest that this establishment had an
800 number, I was wrong. the only number is 914-658-3212.
Apologies,
Paul Austin
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 9:47:58 CST
From: Anthony Johnston <anthony at chemsun.chem.umn.edu>
Subject: Pumpkin "Stout"
Here is a recipe that I formulated as an experiment/modification of a
previous recipe that I posted. I had intended it to be a stout, but
wimped out on the larege amounts of roasted barley and other dark malts
necessary for the style at the last minute. Here is the recipe
2 cans (29 ounces each) of libby's 100% Pumpkin (not pumpkin pie mix)
8 oz Flaked Barley
4 oz Belg. Special B
6 oz 60 L Caramel (Briess)
3 oz Chocolate Malt
2 oz Roasted Barley
1 3.3 lb can DMS diastatic malt extract
"Mashed" above ingredients at 150 F (65 C) for 30 mins, then sparged
through grain bag. A real mess. Final volume = ca.3 gallons
Added 3.3 lbs of Amber Briess Extract and commenced boiling.
Hops/Spicing
1 oz Northern brewers Plugs 7.5% 60 mins
0.5 oz styrian goldings 5.3% 30 mins
0.5 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker 2.9% 10 mins
1 cinnamon stick (2 inches or so)
0.25 tsp coriander, ground
0.25 tsp cardamom, ground
0.5 tsp ginger, ground
All spices were added with the Hallertauer Hops in the last 10 mins.
O.G. = ??? (Thank goodness Ive got my computer now so that I can stop
trying to read my own handwritten notes.)
F.G. = 1.015 (Fairly thick stuff)
Yeast was Red Star Ale Yeast, rehydrated in some cooled boiled wort.
Beer was kegged/force carbonated and almost completely gone in one
evening of Christmas partying.
NB: Canned pumpkin dissolves into a horrendously fine mush that will
settle to the bottom of your primary and cause you to lose up to 1
gallon or more (it does not firmly settle out.) Are the results worth
it? I think so, but I will only do 2 or 3 pumpkin brews a year for the
holidays, because it is messy. I would think that using fresh, cooked
pumpkin cut into 1" cubes or so might strain out better, or they might
break down in the mash to a consistency similar to the canned stuff.
Anyone try this.
On a similar note: The leftover beer was left in the keg in my unheated
garage and froze. Is this detrimental to the beer? I have not tasted i
t since I got back.
On a dissimilar note: Where does one obtain agar for culturing yeast?
anthony johnston
anthony at chemsun.chem.umn.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 1994 16:34:32 -0500 (EST)
From: grayson john <jgrays1 at gl.umbc.edu>
Subject: kegging
I have a 1/4 keg at home. I would like to use this for some of my beer if
I am having a party or going camping. To put beer into the keg, I will need
to remove the bung on the side. Where can I get new bungs, and how are
they installed. Also, how long does beer ferment when it is kegged.
Thanks
John
Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Jan 1994 12:36:46EST5EDT
From: kesicki at psc.psc.scarolina.edu
Subject: SNPA Yeast /Culture Question
The following is written in response to some recent postings
questioning the integrity of the SNPA Yeast as it comes from the
bottle.
I am a loyal user of the Sierra Nevada Yeast. From my experiences,
it is perfectly clean and free of anything that might affect the
finished beer. I brew all-grain batches and am very satisfied with
the results of using it in pale ales, porters, and stouts.
I usually just make a starter culture (1oz DME, 1-2 cups H2O, a few
hop pellets, dregs of 2-3 bottles SNPA) a few days before the brew
date. I always make sure to flame the neck of the bottles before
dumping the dregs into the starter. I've done this numerous times
(10) in the last several years, and it always works very well. In
fact, I usually get several batches out of the yeast by repitching
fresh wort onto the yeast of the primary or secondary of a previous
batch.
I suspect that some of the comments about the yeast were made by
people who have never used it, so I just thought I would add my
empirical evidence, although the results are still based on my
opinion of the finished products!!! :)
Culture Question: To save time, I struck the yeast out recently on
petri dishes. The medium was made with DME, water, and agar-agar
from the oriental grocery, boiled until dissolved. The colonies
grew after a few days so I wrapped the plates up and put them in the
frig. One month later, I opened one to innoculate a starter, and
the thing smelled sour, cidery, or like vinegar. There were no
obvious colonies of anything else on the plates. Is this normal (I
don't think so) but it may be due to something in the agar-agar. Oh
yes, I checked the other plates as well--same deal. Any thoughts?
Ed Kesicki
Dept of Chemistry
The USC
Columbia, SC
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 08:55:11 -0700
From: Michael Howe <howe at gwl.com>
Subject: Beer Across America
Hello all,
Not directly homebrew related, I suppose, but here goes:
I am looking for fellow members of "Beer Across America". I received a
year membership for Christmas (thanks mom!) that is to begin in January.
I have yet to receive my first shipment. My question is: when do these
shipments usually go out (i.e. beginning of month? end of month?). What
are the selections for this month. Will I receive some sort of guide
with all of the forthcoming selections.
Please note that I am still relaxed and not worried, just a bit impatient :-)
Thanks in advance,
Michael Howe e-mail : howe at gwl.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 09:54:00 PST
From: Patrick Seymour <seymour at ucs.ubc.ca>
Subject: Re: Pangalactic GargleBlaster
I've got an interesting receipe for a Pangalactic GargleBlaster, it consists
of:
Gin
Squirt
Cranberry Juice
..... and the secret ingredient ..... Dry ice
Cheers
PS
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 9:45:39 PST
From: rkaye at denali.csc.calpoly.edu (Mr. Raytrace)
Subject: Insulin Tests
I remeber quite a while back there was some discussion that involved using
an insulin test to test the sugar content of a beer, in order to
determine the proper amount of priming sugar.
Of course, I didn't save the article.
In my brew group we are having problems getting our brews to a regular
head consistency, and I'd like to get more information, any at all actually,
about these insulin tests. (Were they sugar tests to diabetics?)
How are they used, and what scales and ratios should be used?
-ruaok
Robert Kaye -- rkaye at denali.calpoly.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 11:18:16 -0400 (CST)
From: tony.storz at atomiccafe.com
Subject: LACTIC ACID IN BEER
For those that have experimented with adding Lactic Acid to finished White
Wheat beer (ala Celis), to simulate the secondary lactic bateria
fermentation that Pierre uses, please provide details via HBD or Mail me at
tony.storz at atomiccafe.com. For those who have mailed me questions about the
Celis Clone recipe that I posted, and had their mail bounce, please note new
address.
Thanks.
Tony Storz <Houston>
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 10:18:24 PST
From: Scott Murphy <scott at gordian.com>
Subject: list of home brew clubs
Mark Simpson writes:
>I was preparing a mailer for the first annual "America's Finest City
>Homebrew Contest" and I was wondering if anyone had the updated copy (or
>address of) the list of homebrew clubs and their contacts?
I am keeping a list of email contacts for different homebrew clubs
around the country. If anyone wants it let me know.
scott
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 10:48:46 PST
From: pickerel at micom.com (Don Pickerel at Micom.com)
Subject: mail order FAQ
I've been sending out a file of recommendations that were sent
to me a
while back. I've probably missed some and if you haven't heard
from me
after requesting the list something happened to the mail.
I would be happy to format the list ( it's about 25k now) but do
we want
to post anything that large? Or I could upload it to a site if I
knew who
was responsible for it.
Any suggestions?
- --
-Don-
- ----
-Don-
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 12:26:34 MST
From: Earle M. Williams <earlew at drc.usbm.gov>
Subject: Clone for Pangalactic GargleBlaster
jim at n5ial.mythical.com (Jim Graham)
Also, even though this isn't really a beer, does anyone know how to make a
reasonable clone of a Pangalactic Gargleblaster? :-) (Non-Hitchhiker's
fans, ignore this....)
I use the following recipe, but it requires a willing partner:
1 brick Au, 10 kg (22 lbs)
1 lemon, thinly sliced crosswise
Cut the lemon slices partway, like you would for putting on the edge
of an ice tea glass. Untwist the lemon slice and place on the gold
brick. Using a small piece of twine, tie the lemon slice to the brick.
Hand the concoction to your partner, and have them whollop you in the
head. When you come to, return the favor. Silver or platinum may be
substituted for the gold, but the flavor is not as smooth. ;)
Children should not attempt this without adult supervision!
- --
Earle M. Williams
U.S. Bureau of Mines
Denver, Colorado USA
(Internet) earlew at drc.usbm.gov
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 14:28:30 EST
From: Todd Anderson <TAND1698 at URIACC.URI.EDU>
Subject: Bahamian Brew and NYC Pubs
Greetings!
I just returned from the Bahamas and 90 degree weather to 20 degrees here in
lovely Rhode Island. Anyway, while I was enjoying the sun, I quaffed many a
beer which included Kalik, the only Bahamian Beer. It was very good. Tasted
like an Amstel, but wasn't a light beer. They also have a Kalik Gold brand.
This is a high alcohol beer and actually has the words "EXTRA STRENGTH" on it.
Kind of reminded me of a tylenol bottle. Anyway, this definitely has a punch.
Also a golden lager, the natives told me it had approx. 7% alcohol.
Has anyone seen Kalik in the States. One American there said they saw it in a
Philadelphia store, but I've never heard of it. Any hints would be welcome.
Continuing on the subject of beers in the Caribbean, I was surprised not to
any pale ales in the area. From what I've read about this style of ale (mostly
from Papazian), wasn't this used by the British troops in all of the tropical
colonies because it was much more resiliant to the heat. Maybe they have it in
Jamaica or some of the other islands. Guinness was very popular down there.
Finally, I would like to add to Michael Yee's listing of great pubs in
Greenwich Village. If you walk a few block west from Burp Castle, I would
recommend the Peculiar Pub (brews from all over the world), The Laughing Lion,
The Slaughtered Lamb and The White Horse Tavern. Both the Slaughtered Lamb and
the White Horse have their own specialty brews. Both are excellent.
Cheers
Todd Anderson, Poli-Sci Grad Student at University of Rhode Island
TAND1698 at URIACC.URI.EDU
"Promote World Peace thru Beer"
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 13:42 CST
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: "Dairy barn" lagers/Acid blend
John writes:
>I've been advising a local BOP on all-grain brewing and yesterday the owner
>called me with an intriguing problem. Seems that for some reason his all-
>grain lagers have the flavour and aroma of "a dairy barn". I assumed this
>meant that it had a grainy or grassy flavour and aroma and suggested several
>reasons why these aromas might be cropping up. But then I asked him how his
>ales were turning out and he told me that they showed no signs of the same
>flavour or aroma. Of course, I told him right away that the problem must be
>yeast related. He's using a dried Maori lager yeast (ironically, it comes from
It may not be yeast related -- it may be related to the vigor of the ferment.
Part of the reason that a little bit of DMS (dimethylsulfide) is a
characteristic of many well-made lagers is that the slower evolution of CO2
in a lager drives-off less of the DMS that is produced during the boil and
during chilling. Perhaps it's DMS that they associate with "a dairy barn."
If so, then maybe they can reduce the DMS produced with a more vigorous boil
and make sure that the pot is not covered completely during the boil so that
DMS can be driven-off during the boil.
If it's not DMS, perhaps it's a product of poorly-stored grain that gets
driven off during the more vigorous ale fermentations. Or, maybe it is
the yeast. Have them dry Wyeast Bavarian Lager #2206 and see if they still
have the problem.
******************
Question: Has anyone ever successfully used "Acid Blend" for acidifying
a mash or your sparge water? It's a blend of Malic, Tartaric and Citric acids.
Al.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 15:29:38 EST
From: steve at garnet.spawar.navy.mil (Steve Jacobs)
Subject: Pangalactic Gargleblaster
> Also, even though this isn't really a beer, does anyone know how to make a
> reasonable clone of a Pangalactic Gargleblaster? :-) (Non-Hitchhiker's
> fans, ignore this....)
A long time ago, I saw a receipe for a Pangalactic Gargleblaster. I don't know
if this is the version you were looking for, but here goes:
Soak 6 - 8 Cayenne peppers is a half liter of 100 proof vodka until
the vodka takes on a yellowish tinge (and the peppers become nearly
white). This takes a few months.
Prior to serving, cool the vodka in the freezer for an hour or so.
Mix equal parts of cold pepper-vodka with peppermint schnapps.
Enjoy (if possible)!
Please note: I am not responsible for any cranial or intestinial distress
caused by ingesting this "drink".
Steve Jacobs (steve at garnet.spawar.navy.mil)
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 17:56:49 -0600 (CST)
From: Dave Smucker <TWF99 at ISUVAX.IASTATE.EDU>
Subject: Oxygen vs. Air
More than six months ago I ask in this forum the impact
of using pure Oxygen rather than air for "aerating" the
wort prior to adding your yeast. Several email replies
suggest that it works very well and would improve my
beer.
Well, after 5 patches (15 gallon) of using pure oxygen I
can confirm that it works very well and in my opinion is
the single biggest improvement I have made in one step
in my beer.
What I use is straight welding oxygen through a
stainless steel "air stone" at the end of a length of
1/4 copper tube. I use a 1/4 plastic tubing to connect
from the end of my welding hose the copper tube and run
this at about 2 psi into my 15.5 gallon keg fermenter
while I transfer the cooled wort from the brew kettle.
While I sure this will start some of you off again I
have not seen shorter lag times but rather much larger
yeast build ups and much faster ferment times. Ferment
times are at least half of my old method and in some
case about one third. At the most lag times are cut by
1/12th. I use a build up starter by first using a pack
of Wyeast in a pint of 1.040 wort followed 12 to 24
hours later by pitching this to 3 quarts of 1.040
starter. I then pitch the whole 3 and 1/2 quarts after
24 to 48 hours to my 15.5 gallons fermenter.
What I believe the higher dissolved oxygen from using
pure oxygen vs. air is giving me is growth of yeast to a
much larger number and therefore much faster ferments.
(Blow off losses are also greater.)
The bottom line is that by using pure oxygen vs. air I
am getting faster and therefore "cleaner" ferments. The
beer just tastes cleaner. I have used this with both
normal mashes and some overnight mashes and it has
always worked well. More on the overnight mashes
another time.
Dave Smucker, Brewing beer, not making jelly !!
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 19:21:17 -0500
From: scnsystems%godot.dnet at gte.com
Subject: A different kind of wort chiller (?)
Hi folks! There was some discussion a few days back about various types of
wort chillers. It seems that the basic premise with wort chillers is to run
some cold material (H20 or whatever) thru tubing immersed in the hot wort. This
is the most effective heat transfer, I would guess. What I was wondering,tho,
is if a slightly less but far simple heat transferred could be pulled off
simply by dunking one end of some highly conductive material with lots of
surface area (like copper tubing) into the hot wort, and the other end of some
equally conductive material with lots of surface area (like another copper
coil) into a tub of ice water. There's no running water involved, but \
considerably less fuss with hooking up to sink and whatnot. Would the thermal
transfer be too slow for an effective cold break?
I must confess I missed the start of the discussion, so if this idea was
already put forth at some previous date, I apologise. I try, but do not always
get to read HBD, so a personal reply would be great - especially if it is to
tell me I'm talking nonsense here. Thanks -- AV
(scnsystems at gtec3.gte.com)
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 18:34:37 -0800
From: reddy at qualcomm.com (Bob Eddy)
Subject: Pot Boiler?
I was watching Julia Child's new cooking series a week or two ago and she
had her guest chef (Emeril Lagasse from New Orleans) cooking a Louisiana
Boil. He cooked up a LARGE quantity of shellfish, corn, potatoes, sausage,
garlic, spices, etc. in what looked to me to be at least a 10 gal kettle.
While the food looked wonderful, I immediately thought - "boiler"! He had
this large pot sitting on a propane fired heating element (more like a
large blowtorch!) that they referred to as a "Louisiana rig". Julia
claimed that it is a common piece of equipment in Southern homes and that
it is sold in "every southern hardware store". The heating element is
mounted on a low stand that she claims can hold up to a 30-gallon kettle!!!
I can tell you that, watching the show, the chef had his kettle in a full,
rolling boil and it didn't look like the heating element was having *any*
trouble keeping it going. Is anyone in this forum familiar with such a
device and/or know where one could be procured outside the south (like in
San Diego, for instance)?
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 23:23:12 EST
From: steevd at aol.com
Subject: Hello and aeration stone ???
Hello to all of you Inter-brewers! I have been a fan of this forum for
several months (I've been d/l-ing all the digests from a local BBS), and I
know what it must feel like to be mute. I have observed many conversations,
but have been unable to participate - until now. I have a question. Does
anyone know where I can get a stainless aeration stone? I've seen them
mentioned in previous issues. I only have one requirement: they have to be
cheap.i
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 20:30:59 -0800 (PST)
From: jimmyp at netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick)
Subject: Help (diacetyl)
Help.
All my kegs ran dry and so I made a batch of my quick Pale Ale. Impatience
got the better of me and I threw the the keg in the refrigerator a little
bit too soon. I believe that this knocked the yeast out before they had
a chance to reabsorb some of the diacetyl. Noonan says (_brewing_lager_
beers_) (pg. 156) "It is important that the fermentation temp. is not
prematurely lowered and that the beer is not racked off its yeast sediment
until the diacetyl has been reabsorbed."
Well, I have prematurely lowered the temp. __AND__ racked the beer
off the yeast. OOOPS! Now the only yeast is whatever is still in
suspension.
The Question:
Can I do anything at this point??
My ideas (1) take keg out of refrigerator to warm up and wait for a few
weeks to allow yeast to reduce diacetyl (slowly?) (2) reprime and (2a)
pitch more yeast. (3) Drink beer as is and claim intent :->
Any thoughts etc. would be appreciated. (the beer is drinkable but not
what I had in mind. Pale ale 1.040 OG 1.012 FG
Thanks in advance. Answers here or to jimmyp at netcom.com.
Jimmy
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 94 04:19:08 EST
From: yeebot at aol.com
Subject: Clear plastic carboys et Bizzarre Beer recipies
Howdy Y'all.
>Clear plastic carboys...
Back when I lived in LA the local tap water was so bad we used to swipe full
5gal. water bottles from the orifice and brew directly in them. Afterwards
we'd just return em, not even giving them a good rinse! I bet the water guy
loved that! In retrospect, the beer wasn't as good as I now know it could
have been but roommates loved it anyway. I'm sure oxidation was a problem, as
well as the blistering heat, the sun, etc. Hey, but I'm still alive! A little
stupider though.
Also,
Am in the process of compiling a list of Bizzarre Beer Recipies. Fruits, nuts
(bolts), wood, meat, whatever. If you've actually brewed and drank it,
comments would be appreciated.
No recipie too outlandish! If I get a good enough response I'll make it
available somehow to HBDer's. Thanks in Advance.
Mike Yee
Angst Brewing Co.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 07:13:00 -0800
From: jim.king at kandy.com (Jim King)
Subject: Tahoe area breweries
In answer to requests for Lake Tahoe area breweries:
I just got back from there. I didn't find any north Tahoe pubs, but
there is a microbrewery (no pub) near north shore that makes a pretty
good product. Try Tahoe City brewery's Red. It is on tap all over the
city, including at the bars at the base of Sugar Bowl, and Squaw Valley
Also, there is appearantly a pretty good pub in Truckee (on the 80
freeway, which is the accessway to North Tahoe.)
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 17:01:00 -0800
From: jim.king at kandy.com (Jim King)
Subject: Ft. Walton area Brewshop
H>73 DE N5IAL (/4) < Running Linux 0.99 PL10 >
H> jim at n5ial.mythical.com ICBM: 30.23N 86.32W
H> || j.graham at ieee.org Packet: N5IAL at W4ZBB (Ft. Walton Beac
Ft. Walton beach brewers! My mother lives in Panama City. Do you
know if there are any good homebrew supply shops in the PC/Ft. Walton/
etc. area?
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 94 09:30:32 EST
From: ivan at mutt.cs.jmu.edu (Ivan Shantz)
Subject: carboys/groc. brewing?
Re: Carboys:
A short range advantage to NAFTA may be availability of
glass carboys. My former brewing partner's
folks are retired to Mexico and they brought us some
carboys. Seems glass carboys are plentiful and cheep south
of the border. The political/economic ramifications are
better debated in another forum however opportunity knocks
for some enterprising border runner.
Re:: grocery store brewing
For various reasons, involving the moving of my brewing
partner, sloppy practice on my part resulting in a killer
batch and ultimatums from my wife I quit brewing. However
while dicing through the cupboards I discovered a Munton &
Fison stout kit which had been pushed into a corner. Thing
is at least 2 yrs old. I assume the yeast is questionable
at best. The top of the can is pliable which leads me to
believe that the seal is intact and everything is all right
inside the can. I hate to throw the thing out but don't
want to make the 40+ mile trip to the closest brewing
supply for 2 reasons. 1. isn't efficient for only one
batch.
2. #1 plus if I get in the place again will be tempted to
get paraphernalia etc and get back in the brewing business
which really, really doesn't fit life right now. I accept
that kit brewers are one of the lower life forms however is
there some way that I can use grocery store products and
come up with something palatable. Can I get a yeast start
from some live brew from the local college bar and if so
what brand is best. (Is bottle Guiness live?) Can I
substitute corn syrup for corn sugar? If so at what rate?
Also think I remember trying that once before and concluding
that the folks must have "poisoned" it in some manner that
it wouldn't ferment. Thanks for any help.
ivan at mutt.cs.jmu.edu -- % iternet
Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Jan 94 11:20:45 EST
From: Richard Nantel <72704.3003 at CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Plastic Carboys
I'm suprised to read that glass carboys are the norm in the U.S. and that a
number of HBD readers are hoping to use cheap plastic, spring water-type
carboys. Although these carboys are not safe for beer (O2 permeable), all
homebrew and winemaking shops in my area sell opaque, plastic 5 gallon (6
gallon US) carboys for about $15 Canadian ($12 U.S.?). These carboys are
designed for beer, wine, mead, etc. They're great -- unbreakable, opaque
(no skunk smell in your brew from excess light), easy to clean (stains
don't seem to hold well) and cheap.
One source is Gordon's Cave a Vin (514) 487-BREW
(I'm not affiliated in any way, just a customer.)
Richard Nantel
Montreal, Quebec
Canada
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 1994 10:47:32 +0000
From: f_rushingrg at ccsvax.sfasu.edu (Ron Rushing)
Subject: Help With Heat--
Greetings From Nacogdoches--
Can someone point me towards information regarding burners ? I've been
using a natrual gas stovetop, a cajun cooker-type propane burner, and a
small homemade natrual gas burner. All have worked fine with small
batches, less than 5 gal.
My brewing friends and I have decided to move up to larger batches. We've
been using 15gal SS kegs with false bottoms.
All works well, except for heating the water ! It takes WAY TOO LONG (1-2
hours) to bring water up to boil. We've also been considering larger boils
(> 25 gal), if a heating solution can be found.
Some of you folks may have some suggestions for burners and related
attachments--
Please respond directly as I don't always have tome to scan the HB list.
THanks--
Ron Rushing
S.F A University- Education Media Center
Nacogdoches, TX 75962
f_rushingrg at ccsvax.sfasu.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 1994 12:06:47 -0500 (EST)
From: "THE FOURWHEELIN' 'TALIAN WANNABE JOKEMEISTER." <AD75173%LTUVAX.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject: More shipping talk
IMO, we have concluded that it's possible to send homebrew to people.
What do all of you think about sending homemade wine to another country,
like Italy? Is it more risky because of international laws?
Aaron
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat Jan 15 10:27:44 1994
From: darrylri at microsoft.com
Subject: Ur Maerzen, Plastic Carboys
korz at iepubj.att.com writes:
> "Ur" means "original," as in "Urquell," which means "from the original
> source."
> However, I've seen several breweries add the "Ur-" prefix to some of their
> beers and they all can't be the original. I believe, however, that Gabriel
> Sedlmayr of the Spaten Braurei, *was* the first to brew Maerzen/Oktoberfest.
> Please note that it was modeled after Anton Dreher's Vienna style beer.
> Bring on that BJCP exam -- I'm sure I can make National this time!
Actually, I think that it was his son, Joseph Sedlmeyer, who formulated
the original Oktoberfest/Maerzen styled beer for an 1870s Oktoberfest.
Gabriel, along with Dreher and the brewers in Pilsen, really brought on
the pure culture lager revolution in the 1840s. BTW, Joseph's initials
are in a lovely mosaic on the outside wall of the Spaten brewery along
with Gabriel's, on Marsstrasse behind the Hauptbahnhof, if you ever
visit Munich. Don't bother trying to get a tour during the Oktoberfest,
however. It doesn't work -- I've tried.
Sorry, Al, back to the books. ;-)
-=-
GANDE at slims.attmail.com writes:
> Subject: 5 gallon PLASTIC carboys
>
> >.From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU>
> >We have these 5 gallon plastic carboys at work. They look just like
> >the glass ones, except they're made of clear plastic. They have to
[...]
> I thought this would be a real cool idea too, Andrew. Seems the
> problem is that those clear plastic water carboys are oxygen
> permeable, which would oxidize your batch terribly - especially if
> you lager in them for a substantial period of time.
It's true. These are made from polycarbonate, and they are somewhat
porous to O2. However, not *that* porous. I use them all the time,
and for lagering beer for several months, too. I think they work
wonderfully well: they are very light, they don't break, and they
are easy to sanitize. I run boiling water into them to do the later,
and I've not had any problems with them.
--Darryl Richman
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 1994 13:23:10 -0600 (CST)
From: "Thomas J. Ramsey" <tjram at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Ur-typ
In a recent HBD I saw the following:
> From: mbunster at hibbs.vcu.edu (Mark Bunster)
> Subject: mmm--tasty!
> What can be said of an "Ur-Maerzen"? (My Deutsch tells me "very Maerzen", but
> that doesn't help much.) Spaten claims this on their Oktoberfest.
Well my German (B.A. ... working on M.A. and evetual Ph.D. in Germanic
Languages, if that means anything) tells me that they are claiming to be the
original Maerzen. Ur means original (with definate connotations of rising
from the primordial (sp?) ooze).
Other than that I'm sure that lots can be said about this beer, but I'll
just leave it at that.
Tschuess,
T.J.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 94 13:33:19 MST
From: npyle at n33.stortek.com
Subject: Re: 1st batch / Kitzinger Yeast
Shawn Kennedy asks:
>1) my kit has only one fermenter, yet the directions refer to 2! Do
> I need a second one for the priming sugar mixing stage?
You can get by with 1, but 2 is better. The normal procedure (using 2 vessels)
is to boil up the priming sugar and water, then dump it into the 2nd vessel.
Siphon (rack) the beer into this vessel, so as to mix the priming sugar.
Finally, rack the beer into the bottles and cap them.
With only one vessel, you'll have to pour the priming sugar mixture on top of
the beer in your fermenter. Then, mix it (which stirs up a lot of trub) to
ensure even carbonation across all the bottles. Finally, rack it into the
bottles and cap them. The drawback to this method is that you'll end up with
more "stuff" in the bottles along with the beer. It will settle to the bottom
of the bottles, but you will have more of it to try to avoid when pouring your
beer. For your first batch, this is fine, but you may want to look for a
bottling bucket, or better yet, a carboy.
>2) It says "use a hydrometer" (which I have) to monitor fermentation.
> Do I wait until the fermenter steadies at a single value before
> I bottle, or do I look for a particular numerical reading? The
> directions aren't clear on this.
I would bottle it if it is stable, and anywhere below 1.015.
**
J. Hunter Heinlen writes:
>3rd. Does anyone know anything about the Kitzinger Pure Yeast Culture? It's
>from West Germany, and has the label 'Liebfrau-Milch' on the box top. I
>purchased it from the beer yeast section of my local home brew shop, but the
>instructions indicate that it may be for wines and fermented fruit juices.
>TIA for ANY info. ANY AT ALL.
Well, I don't know anything about Kitzinger but I do believe Leibfrau-Milch
means "mother's milk" and refers the German white wine. I would bet that it is
a wine yeast.
Norm
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 94 11:51:37 EST
From: mattb18591 at aol.com
Subject: Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #1325 (January 15, 1994)
Please cancle my subscription to the homebrew digest. I have an account on
the net and will not be needing to get it through AOL anymore...
Matt
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 94 17:29:00 -0600
From: phil.brushaber at lunatic.com (Phil Brushaber)
Subject: How Do I Add Airlock to Keg?
I want to conduct secondary fermentation in my stainless steel
Cornelius Kegs (Ball type). Has someone out there come up with a
nifty way to install an airlock?
My experience is leading me to believe that it is important
to conduct a LOW PRESSURE secondary if you are going to do it
in kegs. Up till now I have been doing my primary for about 10
days in glass and then transferring to stainless to make more
effective use of my refrigerator space. But I have been developing
a yeasty/sulphury taste in my brews after a few weeks of
pressurized secondary fermentation.
Anyway, any tips on adding an airlock. I thought of using a
#2 stopper (beer bottle size) and an airlock, but when I pulled
one of the posts I discovered there was no way that even the
small #2 cork was going to fit in there.
... I grind grain in my Bass-O-Matic!
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.11
- ----
=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=
The Lunatic Fringe BBS * 214-235-5288 * 3 nodes * Richardson, TX* 24 hrs
UseNet, ILink, RIME, FIDO, Annex, Intelec, LuciferNet, PlanoNet, and more!
=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 94 23:26 CST
From: XLPSJGN%LUCCPUA.BITNET at UICVM.UIC.EDU
Subject: Two worts, One Secondary Steam Beer
Dear Fellow Brewers,
I've just finished pitching the rehydrated lager yeast (stop gasping!)
into my wort, but I'm beginning to worry about the fermentation method
I've chosen. I recently purchased Mares's book, "Making Beer" which
sparked my interest in trying to brew a steam beer. So I purchased
the ingrediants listed in Papezain's book for his only steam beer,
varying only the boiling hops. Mares discussed how the California
style steam beer (Anchor) was brewed in relatively shallow open
primary chambers, then racked to secondary chambers for clarification.
I wanted to replicate this as much as a novice home brewer could, so I
used two 5 gal carboys, each filled to 2.5 gal level, adding one gal
water first and syphoning the concentrated wort into each to make 2.5
gallons. But the problem occurred when the concentrated wort was all
gone, but there was still approximately 1 more gal still to go to make
2.5 gals! Plus, the syphon clogged at the end of the process, leaving
me no other choice but to pour the last bit of the brew into the carboy
So now I have one carboy with 1 gallon of watter added to 1.5 gals of
concentrated wort to make 2.5 gals, and a second carboy with approx-
imately 2 gallons of water added to .5 gallons concentrated wort to
make 2.5 gallons of very low gravity wort.
So the questions are 1) because I expect that the fermentation times
for both carboys will be different, will one run a greater risk of
infection simply by waiting for the other to finish before I blend the
two into a single 5 gal secondary vessel? 2) If so, then how can I
tell? 3) Will blending the two spoil the batch (even if my anal
retentive cleaning has minimized the possibility of infection)?
As always, I sincerely appreciate any and all replies and advise.
Thanks in advance,
John
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 09:39:46 -0800 (PST)
From: P Brooks <pbrooks at rig.rain.com>
Subject: Wyeast #1084
In HBD #1324 Carl Howes is overheard to say,
> of the wort while pouring it into the primary. Considering the vigor of
> fermentation on my last two batches it's the only reason I didn't wind up
> with a fermenter bomb. BTW, for those who haven't used it yet, if you use
> Wyeast #1084 (Irish Ale) USE A BLOWOFF!!! The first batch I used that yeast
> on (a stout) blew the airlock off the (6 gallon) carboy. Back to my
Quick question Carl - what was the temp of your ferment? I've use 1084 for the
first time(s) in my last two batches [a brown and a blond] and both of them
were the longest slowest most invigorous (is that really a _common_ word?)
primaries I've had (8 and 14 days respectively). Previously I'd been using
Wyeast #1098, and often I've have a complete ferment in 36 to 48 hours. The
only variable that really changed other than the yeast was the temp in the
basement - from an average of about 63-64(F) to 59-60(F). Since the brown
tasted quite fine when I racked it to secondary (haven't got around to racking
the blond - it's been one of those weeks) I'm not worried (yes, the 'W' word),
but was wondering if anyone could share their experience with 1084 ferment
times, temps, and degrees of vigorousness. Digest or e-mail would be great.
Thanks.
ciao,
pb
- --
pbrooks at rig.rain.com
Renaissance Information Group
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 11:13:53+010
From: david at eiscat.no (David Tetenbaum)
Subject: Electric heaters for primary?
The title says it all. Please share your experiences with the following
devices: Brewbelts, heater trays, and/or immersion heaters. I have a real
problem with temperature control, and these appear to offer a solution.
Thanks in advance,
David
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 07:45 EST
From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject: Plastic Carboys
Here's a basic summary of my replies on the use of Plastic Carboys.
The basic consensus was "GO FOR IT! ROB YOUR COMPANY BLIND!!"
However, I was cautioned by all that I must be very careful of
scratches on the plastic. A carboy brush would probably be out of the
question for a plastic carboy. Scratching would be quite easy
with this baby.
All yo people with Canadian E-Mail addresses that responded(notably
Mr. Blackmoore), my mailer can't handle an canadian E-Mail address for
some reason. Sorry guys.
Andrew Pastuszak
Philadelphia, PA
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 08:08 EST
From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject: plastic carboys
Ok, now I've made a fool of myself. The posts on the HBD themselves
have warned me to keep away from using plastic water jugs. The kind
people who e-mailed me, had a vastly different opinion than those that
posted to the HBD.
My new question is: if I buy a food grade plastic bucket, how oxygen
permeable is it? Can I lager in that, or do I have to use glass?
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 10:03:17 EST
From: 17-Jan-1994 1001 -0500 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com>
Subject: cornelius keg parts source
I've used BCI in TN (800-284-9410) for keg parts. O-rings for poppets, O-rings
for caps, etc. They are all pretty cheap. Buy lots when you do buy just
so ya have 'em.
Also, they sell Cornelius kegs (re-cond) for about $26.00 or so; the single-
handled ones may be cheaper. They also sell the 3-gal kegs too.
No affiliated, just a satisfied customer.
JC Ferguson
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 10:45:11 -0500
From: glasheen at husc.harvard.edu
Subject: clip art for labels
I was hoping someone out there might be able to give me advice. A
couple of days ago someone recommended going to sierra.stanford.edu
to get beer label images and sure enough there are a bunch of images
as well as recipes (Cat's Meow). However, when I downloaded the images
they were in MS Word format. I tried to view them in Word but the were
jibberish. I then then noticed they had .jpg as a suffix so I thought
they might be in the image compression format "jpeg" When I tried to
view the images in Jpeg Viewer 2.0 the program couldn't get at the
images. I did all of this on a Mac. Maybe I have Jpeg Viewer set up
wrong. Any advice concerning beer label clip art would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jim Glasheen
glasheen at husc.harvard.edu
grubby grad student
Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1327, 01/18/94