HOMEBREW Digest #1327 Tue 18 January 1994

Digest #1326 Digest #1328

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Miscellany (RONALD DWELLE)
  calculation of specific gravity (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL at igate.abbott.com>
  Tillson Science and Hobby Emporium (8-293-5810 or (914))" <huckfinn at vnet.IBM.COM>
  Pumpkin "Stout" (Anthony Johnston)
  kegging (grayson john)
  SNPA Yeast /Culture Question (kesicki)
  Beer Across America (Michael Howe)
  Re: Pangalactic GargleBlaster (Patrick Seymour)
  Insulin Tests (Mr. Raytrace)
  LACTIC ACID IN BEER (tony.storz)
  list of home brew clubs (Scott Murphy)
  mail order FAQ (Don Pickerel  at  Micom.com)
  Clone for Pangalactic GargleBlaster (Earle M. Williams)
  Bahamian Brew and NYC Pubs (Todd Anderson)
  "Dairy barn" lagers/Acid blend (korz)
  Pangalactic  Gargleblaster (Steve Jacobs)
  Oxygen vs. Air (Dave Smucker)
  A different kind of wort chiller (?) (scnsystems)
  Pot Boiler? (Bob Eddy)
  Hello and aeration stone ??? (steevd)
  Help (diacetyl) (Jimmy Patrick)
  Clear plastic carboys et Bizzarre Beer recipies (yeebot)
  Tahoe area breweries (Jim King)
  Ft. Walton area Brewshop (Jim King)
  carboys/groc. brewing? (Ivan Shantz)
  Plastic Carboys (Richard Nantel)
  Help With Heat-- (Ron Rushing)
  Ur Maerzen, Plastic Carboys (darrylri)
  Ur-typ ("Thomas J. Ramsey")
  Re: 1st batch / Kitzinger Yeast (npyle)
  Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #1325 (January 15, 1994) (mattb18591)
  How Do I Add Airlock to Keg? (Phil Brushaber)
  Two worts, One Secondary Steam Beer (XLPSJGN)
  Wyeast #1084 (P Brooks)
  Electric heaters for primary? (David Tetenbaum)
  Plastic Carboys (GNT_TOX_)
  plastic carboys (GNT_TOX_)
  cornelius keg parts source (17-Jan-1994 1001 -0500)
  clip art for labels (glasheen)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 10:24:42 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: Miscellany A couple of notes on threads: (sorry, work's been interfering with my life, and these are a bit out-of-date, maybe): Someone asked about plastic carboys. I've started using the five-gallon kind and am pleased so far. I got it by paying a $7 deposit and buying 5 gallons of "spring" water at a local water shop. Only one of the water dealers in the area would do this--the rest wanted me to sign contracts to have water delivered to my office for the next century before they'd let me take out a plastic jug. I went to the plastic carboy after I broke my second glass carboy, dropped it 3 inches to the cement basement floor and it shattered. It was partly a matter of have-five-homebrews-relax-five-times-and-fumble-finger-while -cleaning-the-carboy, but also I find that a strong chlorox solution makes the surface of the carboy very slippery. If I ever get glass again, I'm also going to buy a pair of those gloves that NFL wide-receivers wear. The plastic carboy is working okay, but it's not as nice to use as glass--you can't see through and watch the trub settling or the bubbles burping as nicely. I also think the plastic is harder to clean than glass, but that's hard to tell. another thread... I saw someone was bad-mouthing Freshops out in Oregon and I just wanted to say that I put in my first order a couple months ago and was very happy with service and product both. The guy on the phone told me up front about the "handling" charge, so it was no surprise. I'll order from them again. And, of course, no-commercial-involvement-whatsoever-except-for- the-half-mill-invested-in-the-company-and-my-obligation- to-keep-the-owner's-wife-happy-whenever-the-owner- is-away-doing-whatever-it-is-that-hop-owners-do-that-makes- their-wives-so-lonely-etcetera-etcetera. another thread... If someone is re-doing the yeast-faq, a good piece of information for some of us would be a comment of performance at non-ideal temperatures. Like many, my brewery is in the basement and I can't even hope to control temperature even if I wanted. I use mostly California Lager and Canadian Ale yeasts (sorry don't have the brands & numbers at hand) because the lager works well at higher-than-lager temps and the ale works well at lower-than-ale temps. I would like to try other yeasts but hate to invest the money if they're not going to work well or work at all, besides which my supply can barely keep up with the demand as is, and if I have one ruined batch I'll have to go squander money on store-bought. And, thanks to all for all the good, interesing threads & thoughts on HBD, a good way to start the work-day. Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu at Internet) The Grand River Brewery "It Can't Taste As Bad As The Water!" Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Jan 1994 08:57:00 -0600 (CST) From: "Michael D. Hansen (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL at igate.abbott.com> Subject: calculation of specific gravity I am looking for charts, tables, etc. on how to calculate specific gravity for different combinations of malt extract, spray dried malt, specialty grains, adjuncts, batch size, etc. For example, if I brew an X gallon batch with Y lbs of malt extract, Z lbs spray dried malt and W lbs of 2 kinds of specialty grains how does one calculate what the specific gravity SHOULD be. Does anybody know of any good references that could provide this? TNCJOHB gives a VERY limited discussion of this in one of the appendices but it is not sufficient for most cases. TIA and brew on my friends! Mike Hansen (HANSENMD at RANDB.ABBOTT.COM) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 10:41:48 EST From: "Paul Austin (8-293-5810 or (914))" <huckfinn at vnet.IBM.COM> Subject: Tillson Science and Hobby Emporium I wrote in the last digest that this establishment had an 800 number, I was wrong. the only number is 914-658-3212. Apologies, Paul Austin Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 9:47:58 CST From: Anthony Johnston <anthony at chemsun.chem.umn.edu> Subject: Pumpkin "Stout" Here is a recipe that I formulated as an experiment/modification of a previous recipe that I posted. I had intended it to be a stout, but wimped out on the larege amounts of roasted barley and other dark malts necessary for the style at the last minute. Here is the recipe 2 cans (29 ounces each) of libby's 100% Pumpkin (not pumpkin pie mix) 8 oz Flaked Barley 4 oz Belg. Special B 6 oz 60 L Caramel (Briess) 3 oz Chocolate Malt 2 oz Roasted Barley 1 3.3 lb can DMS diastatic malt extract "Mashed" above ingredients at 150 F (65 C) for 30 mins, then sparged through grain bag. A real mess. Final volume = ca.3 gallons Added 3.3 lbs of Amber Briess Extract and commenced boiling. Hops/Spicing 1 oz Northern brewers Plugs 7.5% 60 mins 0.5 oz styrian goldings 5.3% 30 mins 0.5 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker 2.9% 10 mins 1 cinnamon stick (2 inches or so) 0.25 tsp coriander, ground 0.25 tsp cardamom, ground 0.5 tsp ginger, ground All spices were added with the Hallertauer Hops in the last 10 mins. O.G. = ??? (Thank goodness Ive got my computer now so that I can stop trying to read my own handwritten notes.) F.G. = 1.015 (Fairly thick stuff) Yeast was Red Star Ale Yeast, rehydrated in some cooled boiled wort. Beer was kegged/force carbonated and almost completely gone in one evening of Christmas partying. NB: Canned pumpkin dissolves into a horrendously fine mush that will settle to the bottom of your primary and cause you to lose up to 1 gallon or more (it does not firmly settle out.) Are the results worth it? I think so, but I will only do 2 or 3 pumpkin brews a year for the holidays, because it is messy. I would think that using fresh, cooked pumpkin cut into 1" cubes or so might strain out better, or they might break down in the mash to a consistency similar to the canned stuff. Anyone try this. On a similar note: The leftover beer was left in the keg in my unheated garage and froze. Is this detrimental to the beer? I have not tasted i t since I got back. On a dissimilar note: Where does one obtain agar for culturing yeast? anthony johnston anthony at chemsun.chem.umn.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 1994 16:34:32 -0500 (EST) From: grayson john <jgrays1 at gl.umbc.edu> Subject: kegging I have a 1/4 keg at home. I would like to use this for some of my beer if I am having a party or going camping. To put beer into the keg, I will need to remove the bung on the side. Where can I get new bungs, and how are they installed. Also, how long does beer ferment when it is kegged. Thanks John Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Jan 1994 12:36:46EST5EDT From: kesicki at psc.psc.scarolina.edu Subject: SNPA Yeast /Culture Question The following is written in response to some recent postings questioning the integrity of the SNPA Yeast as it comes from the bottle. I am a loyal user of the Sierra Nevada Yeast. From my experiences, it is perfectly clean and free of anything that might affect the finished beer. I brew all-grain batches and am very satisfied with the results of using it in pale ales, porters, and stouts. I usually just make a starter culture (1oz DME, 1-2 cups H2O, a few hop pellets, dregs of 2-3 bottles SNPA) a few days before the brew date. I always make sure to flame the neck of the bottles before dumping the dregs into the starter. I've done this numerous times (10) in the last several years, and it always works very well. In fact, I usually get several batches out of the yeast by repitching fresh wort onto the yeast of the primary or secondary of a previous batch. I suspect that some of the comments about the yeast were made by people who have never used it, so I just thought I would add my empirical evidence, although the results are still based on my opinion of the finished products!!! :) Culture Question: To save time, I struck the yeast out recently on petri dishes. The medium was made with DME, water, and agar-agar from the oriental grocery, boiled until dissolved. The colonies grew after a few days so I wrapped the plates up and put them in the frig. One month later, I opened one to innoculate a starter, and the thing smelled sour, cidery, or like vinegar. There were no obvious colonies of anything else on the plates. Is this normal (I don't think so) but it may be due to something in the agar-agar. Oh yes, I checked the other plates as well--same deal. Any thoughts? Ed Kesicki Dept of Chemistry The USC Columbia, SC Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 08:55:11 -0700 From: Michael Howe <howe at gwl.com> Subject: Beer Across America Hello all, Not directly homebrew related, I suppose, but here goes: I am looking for fellow members of "Beer Across America". I received a year membership for Christmas (thanks mom!) that is to begin in January. I have yet to receive my first shipment. My question is: when do these shipments usually go out (i.e. beginning of month? end of month?). What are the selections for this month. Will I receive some sort of guide with all of the forthcoming selections. Please note that I am still relaxed and not worried, just a bit impatient :-) Thanks in advance, Michael Howe e-mail : howe at gwl.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 09:54:00 PST From: Patrick Seymour <seymour at ucs.ubc.ca> Subject: Re: Pangalactic GargleBlaster I've got an interesting receipe for a Pangalactic GargleBlaster, it consists of: Gin Squirt Cranberry Juice ..... and the secret ingredient ..... Dry ice Cheers PS Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 9:45:39 PST From: rkaye at denali.csc.calpoly.edu (Mr. Raytrace) Subject: Insulin Tests I remeber quite a while back there was some discussion that involved using an insulin test to test the sugar content of a beer, in order to determine the proper amount of priming sugar. Of course, I didn't save the article. In my brew group we are having problems getting our brews to a regular head consistency, and I'd like to get more information, any at all actually, about these insulin tests. (Were they sugar tests to diabetics?) How are they used, and what scales and ratios should be used? -ruaok Robert Kaye -- rkaye at denali.calpoly.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 11:18:16 -0400 (CST) From: tony.storz at atomiccafe.com Subject: LACTIC ACID IN BEER For those that have experimented with adding Lactic Acid to finished White Wheat beer (ala Celis), to simulate the secondary lactic bateria fermentation that Pierre uses, please provide details via HBD or Mail me at tony.storz at atomiccafe.com. For those who have mailed me questions about the Celis Clone recipe that I posted, and had their mail bounce, please note new address. Thanks. Tony Storz <Houston> Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 10:18:24 PST From: Scott Murphy <scott at gordian.com> Subject: list of home brew clubs Mark Simpson writes: >I was preparing a mailer for the first annual "America's Finest City >Homebrew Contest" and I was wondering if anyone had the updated copy (or >address of) the list of homebrew clubs and their contacts? I am keeping a list of email contacts for different homebrew clubs around the country. If anyone wants it let me know. scott Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 10:48:46 PST From: pickerel at micom.com (Don Pickerel at Micom.com) Subject: mail order FAQ I've been sending out a file of recommendations that were sent to me a while back. I've probably missed some and if you haven't heard from me after requesting the list something happened to the mail. I would be happy to format the list ( it's about 25k now) but do we want to post anything that large? Or I could upload it to a site if I knew who was responsible for it. Any suggestions? - -- -Don- - ---- -Don- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 12:26:34 MST From: Earle M. Williams <earlew at drc.usbm.gov> Subject: Clone for Pangalactic GargleBlaster jim at n5ial.mythical.com (Jim Graham) Also, even though this isn't really a beer, does anyone know how to make a reasonable clone of a Pangalactic Gargleblaster? :-) (Non-Hitchhiker's fans, ignore this....) I use the following recipe, but it requires a willing partner: 1 brick Au, 10 kg (22 lbs) 1 lemon, thinly sliced crosswise Cut the lemon slices partway, like you would for putting on the edge of an ice tea glass. Untwist the lemon slice and place on the gold brick. Using a small piece of twine, tie the lemon slice to the brick. Hand the concoction to your partner, and have them whollop you in the head. When you come to, return the favor. Silver or platinum may be substituted for the gold, but the flavor is not as smooth. ;) Children should not attempt this without adult supervision! - -- Earle M. Williams U.S. Bureau of Mines Denver, Colorado USA (Internet) earlew at drc.usbm.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 14:28:30 EST From: Todd Anderson <TAND1698 at URIACC.URI.EDU> Subject: Bahamian Brew and NYC Pubs Greetings! I just returned from the Bahamas and 90 degree weather to 20 degrees here in lovely Rhode Island. Anyway, while I was enjoying the sun, I quaffed many a beer which included Kalik, the only Bahamian Beer. It was very good. Tasted like an Amstel, but wasn't a light beer. They also have a Kalik Gold brand. This is a high alcohol beer and actually has the words "EXTRA STRENGTH" on it. Kind of reminded me of a tylenol bottle. Anyway, this definitely has a punch. Also a golden lager, the natives told me it had approx. 7% alcohol. Has anyone seen Kalik in the States. One American there said they saw it in a Philadelphia store, but I've never heard of it. Any hints would be welcome. Continuing on the subject of beers in the Caribbean, I was surprised not to any pale ales in the area. From what I've read about this style of ale (mostly from Papazian), wasn't this used by the British troops in all of the tropical colonies because it was much more resiliant to the heat. Maybe they have it in Jamaica or some of the other islands. Guinness was very popular down there. Finally, I would like to add to Michael Yee's listing of great pubs in Greenwich Village. If you walk a few block west from Burp Castle, I would recommend the Peculiar Pub (brews from all over the world), The Laughing Lion, The Slaughtered Lamb and The White Horse Tavern. Both the Slaughtered Lamb and the White Horse have their own specialty brews. Both are excellent. Cheers Todd Anderson, Poli-Sci Grad Student at University of Rhode Island TAND1698 at URIACC.URI.EDU "Promote World Peace thru Beer" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 13:42 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: "Dairy barn" lagers/Acid blend John writes: >I've been advising a local BOP on all-grain brewing and yesterday the owner >called me with an intriguing problem. Seems that for some reason his all- >grain lagers have the flavour and aroma of "a dairy barn". I assumed this >meant that it had a grainy or grassy flavour and aroma and suggested several >reasons why these aromas might be cropping up. But then I asked him how his >ales were turning out and he told me that they showed no signs of the same >flavour or aroma. Of course, I told him right away that the problem must be >yeast related. He's using a dried Maori lager yeast (ironically, it comes from It may not be yeast related -- it may be related to the vigor of the ferment. Part of the reason that a little bit of DMS (dimethylsulfide) is a characteristic of many well-made lagers is that the slower evolution of CO2 in a lager drives-off less of the DMS that is produced during the boil and during chilling. Perhaps it's DMS that they associate with "a dairy barn." If so, then maybe they can reduce the DMS produced with a more vigorous boil and make sure that the pot is not covered completely during the boil so that DMS can be driven-off during the boil. If it's not DMS, perhaps it's a product of poorly-stored grain that gets driven off during the more vigorous ale fermentations. Or, maybe it is the yeast. Have them dry Wyeast Bavarian Lager #2206 and see if they still have the problem. ****************** Question: Has anyone ever successfully used "Acid Blend" for acidifying a mash or your sparge water? It's a blend of Malic, Tartaric and Citric acids. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 15:29:38 EST From: steve at garnet.spawar.navy.mil (Steve Jacobs) Subject: Pangalactic Gargleblaster > Also, even though this isn't really a beer, does anyone know how to make a > reasonable clone of a Pangalactic Gargleblaster? :-) (Non-Hitchhiker's > fans, ignore this....) A long time ago, I saw a receipe for a Pangalactic Gargleblaster. I don't know if this is the version you were looking for, but here goes: Soak 6 - 8 Cayenne peppers is a half liter of 100 proof vodka until the vodka takes on a yellowish tinge (and the peppers become nearly white). This takes a few months. Prior to serving, cool the vodka in the freezer for an hour or so. Mix equal parts of cold pepper-vodka with peppermint schnapps. Enjoy (if possible)! Please note: I am not responsible for any cranial or intestinial distress caused by ingesting this "drink". Steve Jacobs (steve at garnet.spawar.navy.mil) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 17:56:49 -0600 (CST) From: Dave Smucker <TWF99 at ISUVAX.IASTATE.EDU> Subject: Oxygen vs. Air More than six months ago I ask in this forum the impact of using pure Oxygen rather than air for "aerating" the wort prior to adding your yeast. Several email replies suggest that it works very well and would improve my beer. Well, after 5 patches (15 gallon) of using pure oxygen I can confirm that it works very well and in my opinion is the single biggest improvement I have made in one step in my beer. What I use is straight welding oxygen through a stainless steel "air stone" at the end of a length of 1/4 copper tube. I use a 1/4 plastic tubing to connect from the end of my welding hose the copper tube and run this at about 2 psi into my 15.5 gallon keg fermenter while I transfer the cooled wort from the brew kettle. While I sure this will start some of you off again I have not seen shorter lag times but rather much larger yeast build ups and much faster ferment times. Ferment times are at least half of my old method and in some case about one third. At the most lag times are cut by 1/12th. I use a build up starter by first using a pack of Wyeast in a pint of 1.040 wort followed 12 to 24 hours later by pitching this to 3 quarts of 1.040 starter. I then pitch the whole 3 and 1/2 quarts after 24 to 48 hours to my 15.5 gallons fermenter. What I believe the higher dissolved oxygen from using pure oxygen vs. air is giving me is growth of yeast to a much larger number and therefore much faster ferments. (Blow off losses are also greater.) The bottom line is that by using pure oxygen vs. air I am getting faster and therefore "cleaner" ferments. The beer just tastes cleaner. I have used this with both normal mashes and some overnight mashes and it has always worked well. More on the overnight mashes another time. Dave Smucker, Brewing beer, not making jelly !! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 19:21:17 -0500 From: scnsystems%godot.dnet at gte.com Subject: A different kind of wort chiller (?) Hi folks! There was some discussion a few days back about various types of wort chillers. It seems that the basic premise with wort chillers is to run some cold material (H20 or whatever) thru tubing immersed in the hot wort. This is the most effective heat transfer, I would guess. What I was wondering,tho, is if a slightly less but far simple heat transferred could be pulled off simply by dunking one end of some highly conductive material with lots of surface area (like copper tubing) into the hot wort, and the other end of some equally conductive material with lots of surface area (like another copper coil) into a tub of ice water. There's no running water involved, but \ considerably less fuss with hooking up to sink and whatnot. Would the thermal transfer be too slow for an effective cold break? I must confess I missed the start of the discussion, so if this idea was already put forth at some previous date, I apologise. I try, but do not always get to read HBD, so a personal reply would be great - especially if it is to tell me I'm talking nonsense here. Thanks -- AV (scnsystems at gtec3.gte.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 18:34:37 -0800 From: reddy at qualcomm.com (Bob Eddy) Subject: Pot Boiler? I was watching Julia Child's new cooking series a week or two ago and she had her guest chef (Emeril Lagasse from New Orleans) cooking a Louisiana Boil. He cooked up a LARGE quantity of shellfish, corn, potatoes, sausage, garlic, spices, etc. in what looked to me to be at least a 10 gal kettle. While the food looked wonderful, I immediately thought - "boiler"! He had this large pot sitting on a propane fired heating element (more like a large blowtorch!) that they referred to as a "Louisiana rig". Julia claimed that it is a common piece of equipment in Southern homes and that it is sold in "every southern hardware store". The heating element is mounted on a low stand that she claims can hold up to a 30-gallon kettle!!! I can tell you that, watching the show, the chef had his kettle in a full, rolling boil and it didn't look like the heating element was having *any* trouble keeping it going. Is anyone in this forum familiar with such a device and/or know where one could be procured outside the south (like in San Diego, for instance)? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 23:23:12 EST From: steevd at aol.com Subject: Hello and aeration stone ??? Hello to all of you Inter-brewers! I have been a fan of this forum for several months (I've been d/l-ing all the digests from a local BBS), and I know what it must feel like to be mute. I have observed many conversations, but have been unable to participate - until now. I have a question. Does anyone know where I can get a stainless aeration stone? I've seen them mentioned in previous issues. I only have one requirement: they have to be cheap.i Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 1994 20:30:59 -0800 (PST) From: jimmyp at netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick) Subject: Help (diacetyl) Help. All my kegs ran dry and so I made a batch of my quick Pale Ale. Impatience got the better of me and I threw the the keg in the refrigerator a little bit too soon. I believe that this knocked the yeast out before they had a chance to reabsorb some of the diacetyl. Noonan says (_brewing_lager_ beers_) (pg. 156) "It is important that the fermentation temp. is not prematurely lowered and that the beer is not racked off its yeast sediment until the diacetyl has been reabsorbed." Well, I have prematurely lowered the temp. __AND__ racked the beer off the yeast. OOOPS! Now the only yeast is whatever is still in suspension. The Question: Can I do anything at this point?? My ideas (1) take keg out of refrigerator to warm up and wait for a few weeks to allow yeast to reduce diacetyl (slowly?) (2) reprime and (2a) pitch more yeast. (3) Drink beer as is and claim intent :-> Any thoughts etc. would be appreciated. (the beer is drinkable but not what I had in mind. Pale ale 1.040 OG 1.012 FG Thanks in advance. Answers here or to jimmyp at netcom.com. Jimmy Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 94 04:19:08 EST From: yeebot at aol.com Subject: Clear plastic carboys et Bizzarre Beer recipies Howdy Y'all. >Clear plastic carboys... Back when I lived in LA the local tap water was so bad we used to swipe full 5gal. water bottles from the orifice and brew directly in them. Afterwards we'd just return em, not even giving them a good rinse! I bet the water guy loved that! In retrospect, the beer wasn't as good as I now know it could have been but roommates loved it anyway. I'm sure oxidation was a problem, as well as the blistering heat, the sun, etc. Hey, but I'm still alive! A little stupider though. Also, Am in the process of compiling a list of Bizzarre Beer Recipies. Fruits, nuts (bolts), wood, meat, whatever. If you've actually brewed and drank it, comments would be appreciated. No recipie too outlandish! If I get a good enough response I'll make it available somehow to HBDer's. Thanks in Advance. Mike Yee Angst Brewing Co. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 07:13:00 -0800 From: jim.king at kandy.com (Jim King) Subject: Tahoe area breweries In answer to requests for Lake Tahoe area breweries: I just got back from there. I didn't find any north Tahoe pubs, but there is a microbrewery (no pub) near north shore that makes a pretty good product. Try Tahoe City brewery's Red. It is on tap all over the city, including at the bars at the base of Sugar Bowl, and Squaw Valley Also, there is appearantly a pretty good pub in Truckee (on the 80 freeway, which is the accessway to North Tahoe.) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 17:01:00 -0800 From: jim.king at kandy.com (Jim King) Subject: Ft. Walton area Brewshop H>73 DE N5IAL (/4) < Running Linux 0.99 PL10 > H> jim at n5ial.mythical.com ICBM: 30.23N 86.32W H> || j.graham at ieee.org Packet: N5IAL at W4ZBB (Ft. Walton Beac Ft. Walton beach brewers! My mother lives in Panama City. Do you know if there are any good homebrew supply shops in the PC/Ft. Walton/ etc. area? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 94 09:30:32 EST From: ivan at mutt.cs.jmu.edu (Ivan Shantz) Subject: carboys/groc. brewing? Re: Carboys: A short range advantage to NAFTA may be availability of glass carboys. My former brewing partner's folks are retired to Mexico and they brought us some carboys. Seems glass carboys are plentiful and cheep south of the border. The political/economic ramifications are better debated in another forum however opportunity knocks for some enterprising border runner. Re:: grocery store brewing For various reasons, involving the moving of my brewing partner, sloppy practice on my part resulting in a killer batch and ultimatums from my wife I quit brewing. However while dicing through the cupboards I discovered a Munton & Fison stout kit which had been pushed into a corner. Thing is at least 2 yrs old. I assume the yeast is questionable at best. The top of the can is pliable which leads me to believe that the seal is intact and everything is all right inside the can. I hate to throw the thing out but don't want to make the 40+ mile trip to the closest brewing supply for 2 reasons. 1. isn't efficient for only one batch. 2. #1 plus if I get in the place again will be tempted to get paraphernalia etc and get back in the brewing business which really, really doesn't fit life right now. I accept that kit brewers are one of the lower life forms however is there some way that I can use grocery store products and come up with something palatable. Can I get a yeast start from some live brew from the local college bar and if so what brand is best. (Is bottle Guiness live?) Can I substitute corn syrup for corn sugar? If so at what rate? Also think I remember trying that once before and concluding that the folks must have "poisoned" it in some manner that it wouldn't ferment. Thanks for any help. ivan at mutt.cs.jmu.edu -- % iternet Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Jan 94 11:20:45 EST From: Richard Nantel <72704.3003 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Plastic Carboys I'm suprised to read that glass carboys are the norm in the U.S. and that a number of HBD readers are hoping to use cheap plastic, spring water-type carboys. Although these carboys are not safe for beer (O2 permeable), all homebrew and winemaking shops in my area sell opaque, plastic 5 gallon (6 gallon US) carboys for about $15 Canadian ($12 U.S.?). These carboys are designed for beer, wine, mead, etc. They're great -- unbreakable, opaque (no skunk smell in your brew from excess light), easy to clean (stains don't seem to hold well) and cheap. One source is Gordon's Cave a Vin (514) 487-BREW (I'm not affiliated in any way, just a customer.) Richard Nantel Montreal, Quebec Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 1994 10:47:32 +0000 From: f_rushingrg at ccsvax.sfasu.edu (Ron Rushing) Subject: Help With Heat-- Greetings From Nacogdoches-- Can someone point me towards information regarding burners ? I've been using a natrual gas stovetop, a cajun cooker-type propane burner, and a small homemade natrual gas burner. All have worked fine with small batches, less than 5 gal. My brewing friends and I have decided to move up to larger batches. We've been using 15gal SS kegs with false bottoms. All works well, except for heating the water ! It takes WAY TOO LONG (1-2 hours) to bring water up to boil. We've also been considering larger boils (> 25 gal), if a heating solution can be found. Some of you folks may have some suggestions for burners and related attachments-- Please respond directly as I don't always have tome to scan the HB list. THanks-- Ron Rushing S.F A University- Education Media Center Nacogdoches, TX 75962 f_rushingrg at ccsvax.sfasu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 1994 12:06:47 -0500 (EST) From: "THE FOURWHEELIN' 'TALIAN WANNABE JOKEMEISTER." <AD75173%LTUVAX.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: More shipping talk IMO, we have concluded that it's possible to send homebrew to people. What do all of you think about sending homemade wine to another country, like Italy? Is it more risky because of international laws? Aaron Return to table of contents
Date: Sat Jan 15 10:27:44 1994 From: darrylri at microsoft.com Subject: Ur Maerzen, Plastic Carboys korz at iepubj.att.com writes: > "Ur" means "original," as in "Urquell," which means "from the original > source." > However, I've seen several breweries add the "Ur-" prefix to some of their > beers and they all can't be the original. I believe, however, that Gabriel > Sedlmayr of the Spaten Braurei, *was* the first to brew Maerzen/Oktoberfest. > Please note that it was modeled after Anton Dreher's Vienna style beer. > Bring on that BJCP exam -- I'm sure I can make National this time! Actually, I think that it was his son, Joseph Sedlmeyer, who formulated the original Oktoberfest/Maerzen styled beer for an 1870s Oktoberfest. Gabriel, along with Dreher and the brewers in Pilsen, really brought on the pure culture lager revolution in the 1840s. BTW, Joseph's initials are in a lovely mosaic on the outside wall of the Spaten brewery along with Gabriel's, on Marsstrasse behind the Hauptbahnhof, if you ever visit Munich. Don't bother trying to get a tour during the Oktoberfest, however. It doesn't work -- I've tried. Sorry, Al, back to the books. ;-) -=- GANDE at slims.attmail.com writes: > Subject: 5 gallon PLASTIC carboys > > >.From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> > >We have these 5 gallon plastic carboys at work. They look just like > >the glass ones, except they're made of clear plastic. They have to [...] > I thought this would be a real cool idea too, Andrew. Seems the > problem is that those clear plastic water carboys are oxygen > permeable, which would oxidize your batch terribly - especially if > you lager in them for a substantial period of time. It's true. These are made from polycarbonate, and they are somewhat porous to O2. However, not *that* porous. I use them all the time, and for lagering beer for several months, too. I think they work wonderfully well: they are very light, they don't break, and they are easy to sanitize. I run boiling water into them to do the later, and I've not had any problems with them. --Darryl Richman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 1994 13:23:10 -0600 (CST) From: "Thomas J. Ramsey" <tjram at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: Ur-typ In a recent HBD I saw the following: > From: mbunster at hibbs.vcu.edu (Mark Bunster) > Subject: mmm--tasty! > What can be said of an "Ur-Maerzen"? (My Deutsch tells me "very Maerzen", but > that doesn't help much.) Spaten claims this on their Oktoberfest. Well my German (B.A. ... working on M.A. and evetual Ph.D. in Germanic Languages, if that means anything) tells me that they are claiming to be the original Maerzen. Ur means original (with definate connotations of rising from the primordial (sp?) ooze). Other than that I'm sure that lots can be said about this beer, but I'll just leave it at that. Tschuess, T.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 94 13:33:19 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Re: 1st batch / Kitzinger Yeast Shawn Kennedy asks: >1) my kit has only one fermenter, yet the directions refer to 2! Do > I need a second one for the priming sugar mixing stage? You can get by with 1, but 2 is better. The normal procedure (using 2 vessels) is to boil up the priming sugar and water, then dump it into the 2nd vessel. Siphon (rack) the beer into this vessel, so as to mix the priming sugar. Finally, rack the beer into the bottles and cap them. With only one vessel, you'll have to pour the priming sugar mixture on top of the beer in your fermenter. Then, mix it (which stirs up a lot of trub) to ensure even carbonation across all the bottles. Finally, rack it into the bottles and cap them. The drawback to this method is that you'll end up with more "stuff" in the bottles along with the beer. It will settle to the bottom of the bottles, but you will have more of it to try to avoid when pouring your beer. For your first batch, this is fine, but you may want to look for a bottling bucket, or better yet, a carboy. >2) It says "use a hydrometer" (which I have) to monitor fermentation. > Do I wait until the fermenter steadies at a single value before > I bottle, or do I look for a particular numerical reading? The > directions aren't clear on this. I would bottle it if it is stable, and anywhere below 1.015. ** J. Hunter Heinlen writes: >3rd. Does anyone know anything about the Kitzinger Pure Yeast Culture? It's >from West Germany, and has the label 'Liebfrau-Milch' on the box top. I >purchased it from the beer yeast section of my local home brew shop, but the >instructions indicate that it may be for wines and fermented fruit juices. >TIA for ANY info. ANY AT ALL. Well, I don't know anything about Kitzinger but I do believe Leibfrau-Milch means "mother's milk" and refers the German white wine. I would bet that it is a wine yeast. Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 94 11:51:37 EST From: mattb18591 at aol.com Subject: Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #1325 (January 15, 1994) Please cancle my subscription to the homebrew digest. I have an account on the net and will not be needing to get it through AOL anymore... Matt Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 94 17:29:00 -0600 From: phil.brushaber at lunatic.com (Phil Brushaber) Subject: How Do I Add Airlock to Keg? I want to conduct secondary fermentation in my stainless steel Cornelius Kegs (Ball type). Has someone out there come up with a nifty way to install an airlock? My experience is leading me to believe that it is important to conduct a LOW PRESSURE secondary if you are going to do it in kegs. Up till now I have been doing my primary for about 10 days in glass and then transferring to stainless to make more effective use of my refrigerator space. But I have been developing a yeasty/sulphury taste in my brews after a few weeks of pressurized secondary fermentation. Anyway, any tips on adding an airlock. I thought of using a #2 stopper (beer bottle size) and an airlock, but when I pulled one of the posts I discovered there was no way that even the small #2 cork was going to fit in there. ... I grind grain in my Bass-O-Matic! ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.11 - ---- =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= The Lunatic Fringe BBS * 214-235-5288 * 3 nodes * Richardson, TX* 24 hrs UseNet, ILink, RIME, FIDO, Annex, Intelec, LuciferNet, PlanoNet, and more! =*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*= Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 94 23:26 CST From: XLPSJGN%LUCCPUA.BITNET at UICVM.UIC.EDU Subject: Two worts, One Secondary Steam Beer Dear Fellow Brewers, I've just finished pitching the rehydrated lager yeast (stop gasping!) into my wort, but I'm beginning to worry about the fermentation method I've chosen. I recently purchased Mares's book, "Making Beer" which sparked my interest in trying to brew a steam beer. So I purchased the ingrediants listed in Papezain's book for his only steam beer, varying only the boiling hops. Mares discussed how the California style steam beer (Anchor) was brewed in relatively shallow open primary chambers, then racked to secondary chambers for clarification. I wanted to replicate this as much as a novice home brewer could, so I used two 5 gal carboys, each filled to 2.5 gal level, adding one gal water first and syphoning the concentrated wort into each to make 2.5 gallons. But the problem occurred when the concentrated wort was all gone, but there was still approximately 1 more gal still to go to make 2.5 gals! Plus, the syphon clogged at the end of the process, leaving me no other choice but to pour the last bit of the brew into the carboy So now I have one carboy with 1 gallon of watter added to 1.5 gals of concentrated wort to make 2.5 gals, and a second carboy with approx- imately 2 gallons of water added to .5 gallons concentrated wort to make 2.5 gallons of very low gravity wort. So the questions are 1) because I expect that the fermentation times for both carboys will be different, will one run a greater risk of infection simply by waiting for the other to finish before I blend the two into a single 5 gal secondary vessel? 2) If so, then how can I tell? 3) Will blending the two spoil the batch (even if my anal retentive cleaning has minimized the possibility of infection)? As always, I sincerely appreciate any and all replies and advise. Thanks in advance, John Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 09:39:46 -0800 (PST) From: P Brooks <pbrooks at rig.rain.com> Subject: Wyeast #1084 In HBD #1324 Carl Howes is overheard to say, > of the wort while pouring it into the primary. Considering the vigor of > fermentation on my last two batches it's the only reason I didn't wind up > with a fermenter bomb. BTW, for those who haven't used it yet, if you use > Wyeast #1084 (Irish Ale) USE A BLOWOFF!!! The first batch I used that yeast > on (a stout) blew the airlock off the (6 gallon) carboy. Back to my Quick question Carl - what was the temp of your ferment? I've use 1084 for the first time(s) in my last two batches [a brown and a blond] and both of them were the longest slowest most invigorous (is that really a _common_ word?) primaries I've had (8 and 14 days respectively). Previously I'd been using Wyeast #1098, and often I've have a complete ferment in 36 to 48 hours. The only variable that really changed other than the yeast was the temp in the basement - from an average of about 63-64(F) to 59-60(F). Since the brown tasted quite fine when I racked it to secondary (haven't got around to racking the blond - it's been one of those weeks) I'm not worried (yes, the 'W' word), but was wondering if anyone could share their experience with 1084 ferment times, temps, and degrees of vigorousness. Digest or e-mail would be great. Thanks. ciao, pb - -- pbrooks at rig.rain.com Renaissance Information Group Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 11:13:53+010 From: david at eiscat.no (David Tetenbaum) Subject: Electric heaters for primary? The title says it all. Please share your experiences with the following devices: Brewbelts, heater trays, and/or immersion heaters. I have a real problem with temperature control, and these appear to offer a solution. Thanks in advance, David Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 07:45 EST From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> Subject: Plastic Carboys Here's a basic summary of my replies on the use of Plastic Carboys. The basic consensus was "GO FOR IT! ROB YOUR COMPANY BLIND!!" However, I was cautioned by all that I must be very careful of scratches on the plastic. A carboy brush would probably be out of the question for a plastic carboy. Scratching would be quite easy with this baby. All yo people with Canadian E-Mail addresses that responded(notably Mr. Blackmoore), my mailer can't handle an canadian E-Mail address for some reason. Sorry guys. Andrew Pastuszak Philadelphia, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 08:08 EST From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> Subject: plastic carboys Ok, now I've made a fool of myself. The posts on the HBD themselves have warned me to keep away from using plastic water jugs. The kind people who e-mailed me, had a vastly different opinion than those that posted to the HBD. My new question is: if I buy a food grade plastic bucket, how oxygen permeable is it? Can I lager in that, or do I have to use glass? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 10:03:17 EST From: 17-Jan-1994 1001 -0500 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> Subject: cornelius keg parts source I've used BCI in TN (800-284-9410) for keg parts. O-rings for poppets, O-rings for caps, etc. They are all pretty cheap. Buy lots when you do buy just so ya have 'em. Also, they sell Cornelius kegs (re-cond) for about $26.00 or so; the single- handled ones may be cheaper. They also sell the 3-gal kegs too. No affiliated, just a satisfied customer. JC Ferguson Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 94 10:45:11 -0500 From: glasheen at husc.harvard.edu Subject: clip art for labels I was hoping someone out there might be able to give me advice. A couple of days ago someone recommended going to sierra.stanford.edu to get beer label images and sure enough there are a bunch of images as well as recipes (Cat's Meow). However, when I downloaded the images they were in MS Word format. I tried to view them in Word but the were jibberish. I then then noticed they had .jpg as a suffix so I thought they might be in the image compression format "jpeg" When I tried to view the images in Jpeg Viewer 2.0 the program couldn't get at the images. I did all of this on a Mac. Maybe I have Jpeg Viewer set up wrong. Any advice concerning beer label clip art would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jim Glasheen glasheen at husc.harvard.edu grubby grad student Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1327, 01/18/94