HOMEBREW Digest #1344 Mon 07 February 1994
Digest #1343
Digest #1345
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Coopers Real Ale/oxidation/oak/dryhopping DUH! (korz)
Re: LAMBIC DIGEST ? (Michael Jorgenson 5-5891)
This 'n' That (Jim Posey)
6-pack carriers/The Pint Post (Jim Posey)
RIMS Source Data? (Bob Eddy)
(MHUGH)
Breckenridge Brewery (Dan Wing)
Sweetening mead (David Hulse)
cannabis and beer (Tom Lyons)
Glorious Homebrew/pH/English Brown (npyle)
tipping carboys/oxygen in wort (Jonathan G Knight)
help (DAN CREAGAN)
gluteraldehyde (Ed Hitchcock)
Vienna recipe and IBU help (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Cidex sterilization ("Charles S. Jackson")
Oak aging (Louis K. Bonham)
Homebrewing BBS (Jim King)
Beer Related BBS (Tony_Quinn)
Hales Wee Heavy recipe? (Russell Kofoed)
Using Laaglander in starters ("Mark S. Woods")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 94 15:18 CST
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: Coopers Real Ale/oxidation/oak/dryhopping DUH!
Mark writes:
>Can someone please help me. I have recently purchased a can of Cooper's Real
>Ale extract. The instructions say to add 2kg of white sugar to the fermenter
>along with water and the extract. First question, is this table sugar or corn
>sugar? Next question, why do the instructions with the can not say to boil the
>wort? Every can I have tried plus every recipe I have ever seen always mention
>boiling the wort for several hours. Should I be following the recipe with the
>can? Why does it want me to add sugar? Isn't there enough malt in the can for
>the yeast?
The answers to your questions are:
Corn, poor instructions, it's up to you, because the beer would be weaker if
you didn't, there is enough. I have a friend who brews nothing other than
this kit, just like the instructions on the can. It makes a drinkable, albeit
slightly hazy ale. I was quite surprised that a kit with so much corn sugar
added had a respectable flavor. Even the yeast that comes with the kit is not
too bad (Coopers dry, what else). You can substitute Munton & Fison light
dry malt extract for the corn sugar if you wish, but the beer will come out
"chewier" and not as refreshing. Try it both ways and see what you think.
If you add DME, you probably want to add a little extra hops (say, 1/4 ounce
of Fuggles or something equivalent) to balance out the additional sweetness.
Coopers probably tells you to not boil just to make the kit less daunting,,
but the beer will be clearer (less hazy) if you boil it and you will have
to *boil* it if you add extra hops (right Norm?).
**********
John writes:
>However, if oxygen is introduced while the wort is still hot,
>the oxygen will oxidize the wort and the yeast cannot utilize it.
There will still be plenty of oxygen for the yeast, but indeed, you
want to avoid oxidation of the wort.
>This will later cause oxidation of the alchohols which gives a
>wet cardboard taste.
I don't think so. I believe its the oxidation of other wort components
that give the wet cardboard aroma/taste. I believe that the oxidation
of alcohols results in the production of aldehydes (but don't quote me).
>The key is temperature. The generally accepted
>temperature cutoff for preventing wort oxidation is 90F. Likewise,
I have read 80F in many places.
>if oxygen is introduced after the fermentation has started, it will
>not be utilized by the yeast and will later cause bad flavors.
It can be utilized by the yeast, and in fact, can cause the yeast to
stop fermentation and go back to respiration. This is known as the
Pasteur Effect. I've also read that oxygen introduced during fermenation
can increase the production of diacetyl.
*********
Coyote writes:
>* Well, time to disagree! Oak adds a character, a quality, that is much
>desired for a beer. Even the King (spud) uses Beachwood. Wood is a flavor
>that is much recognized in many QUALITY beers through antiquity. Watch
>that episode of the BeerHunter and you'll understand why.
>They look neat, and add tastes. Besides...it's fun tapping an OAK CASK.
I'd like to point out that European Oak and American Oak are very different.
American Oak add much more intense flavor than European Oak. AB uses
Beachwood to help deal with their overly-flocculant yeast and not for any
flavor it may impart. I agree that original IPA's and Porters may have had
some oak character, but probably not nearly as much as say, Rodenbach.
I've read that at Rodenbach, they diassemble those huge oak tanks after
every (?) batch, scrape the staves with a tool to expose fresh wood and
reassemble. Finally, some Lambieks have an oak character, for example
Cantillon.
*********
Jeff writes (quoting me):
>> Yes. There is no doubt that Czech Pilsner is dryhopped and it is
>> traditionally only dryhopped with Czech Saaz. I recomend whole or
>> plugs (cause they float).
>>
>I think this is incorrect. I believe that the Czech brewers achieve
>their hop character without any dry-hopping at all. In fact, according
You know, I don't know what got into me when I wrote this email... I was
in a rush and knew that I had just thrown together an answer that was not
very well thought out. In fact, Jeff is absolutely right. Dryhopping is
really an English (and subsequently American) procedure. Czech and German
hop aromas are all from late additions of hops in the boil (thanks Darryl).
Silly me. You can achieve a much more intense hop aroma from dryhopping
than you can from late additions.
>> Usually dryhopped:
>> Czech Pilsner, English Pale Ale, Barleywine, American Brown Ale, American
>> Pale Ale, India Pale Ale.
>>
>Barleywine? Al!
Sure. I've tasted quite a few Engish and American Barleywines that have
a significant hop nose... despite having to compete with all those esters.
I feel that East Kent Goldings have a resiny/candylike aroma that can often
be mistaken for an ester.
>> Sometimes dryhopped:
>> Bitter, Scottish Ale, Stouts, Strong English and Scotch Ales,
>> several Belgian Ales (like Orval), Porter.
>>
>Once again, I find this spurious. I do not think that any of these
>(except Bitter and Orval) are commonly (or even "sometimes") dryhopped.
>Unless by that you mean that you've found one or two examples that have
>been. Scotch ales, in particular, are noted for the *lack* of hop aroma
>in the finish.
I meant, just as you said, I've had a couple of examples of each that had
a hop aroma. I agree that I should not have included Scotch Ales in there
- -- the one that I feel has a noticable hop aroma is not even labeled as
a Scotch Ale in Scotland: McAndrew's (just called Calledonian Ale in Scotland).
I appologize for posting such a poorly-thought-out post.
*******
Someone writes:
>It all begins with the grain. The finest of our small Northwest brewers
>brew their specialty beers in the handcrafted tradition using malted grains.
>Wholesome grains called English Two Row and Five Row are roasted to halt
^^^^
Hmmm? Perhaps this is why Pacific Northwest beers are hoppier than the
average beer? 1/6th less malt? Sorry, couldn't resist ;^).
Al.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 94 18:19:11 CST
From: jorgen at orson.mayo.EDU (Michael Jorgenson 5-5891)
Subject: Re: LAMBIC DIGEST ?
I didn't know that such a glorious item existed !!!
Can somebody e-mail/post a subscription netdress for the Lambic Digest?
many thanks
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 16:34:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim Posey <dodger at quack.kfu.com>
Subject: This 'n' That
On a most recent ski trip to the Pacific Northwest, I managed
to fit in a couple of brewery visits:
Bend, OR--Deschutes Brewery & Public House--Mt. Bachelor Ski Area
Black Butte Porter was my vote for best, but their holiday
Jubelale was quite excellent. Exlnt Food, and as entertainment
a brass spitoon on the wall behind the bar for tips--quarters--
tossed by patrons from all over the room--dangerous for the
barkeep!
Seattle, WA--Redhook Ale Brewery--Finally sampled the Wheat Hook
Ale and Blackhook Porter, typically available only in this area,
and got the last of their Winterhook Xmas Ale, thanks to t tour.
Vancouver, BC Canada--Fogg n' Suds Restaurant--an eatery that
pours 20 beers on tap and 275 bottle beers from around the world.
I had a Corsendonk Monk Brown Ale (7.5%) for $8.00 cdn. which
was fabulous, and a La Trappe Tripel (8.0%) also for $8.00 cdn.
No connections, just passing along the info if you're in the area.
Dodger Posey
dodger at quack.kfu.com
friendly waiter. Limited food, though very good, and xlnt
Vancouver, BC, Canada--Fogg n' Suds Restaurant--an eatery that
specializes in beers from around the world, 20 on tap, 275 bott
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 16:52:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim Posey <dodger at quack.kfu.com>
Subject: 6-pack carriers/The Pint Post
Awhile back, someone requested a source for unprinted 6-pack carriers
for his brews. I was in the Red Hook Brewery and picked up a magazine
called The Pint Post, the official magazine of the Microbrew App-
reciation Society.
An ad placed within by The Standard Paper Box Corp, Attn Frank Pattison,
PO box 289, Medina WA 98039 206-454-6100 says they supply stock
generic cartons. No Connection whatsoever to this company.
Also in this issue an article on the term "Lambic" and its usage....
Belgians Protect Lambic Label
The government of Belgium, in conjunction with the European Community,
is making efforts to extablish an _appellation controlee_ to control
the use of the term lambic. The parameters being established would
limit the term to brewers brewing with wild yeasts in the traditional
areas of wetern Brussels (home of the original lambics), the remainder
of Belgium, and the bordering nations of the Netherlands and France.
Furthermore, a lambic's definition stipulates that at least 30 opercent
of the malt makeup be of raw wheat.
Despite this quest to establish and _appellation controlee_, there is no
basis in fact to the published reports that the government of Belgium
is pursuing legel action against the Boston Beer Company of Boston, MA
for the use of the term lambic on their cranberry beer.
According to Jim Koch of the Boston Beer Co., "This is the first I've
heard of it. I can tell you this, I have not received any intimation,
any communication--zippo on this."
The rumor may have started when Micheal Jackson drew attention to this
situation in his wonderful new book, -Micheal Jackson's Beer Companion-
(p 30-31)
this article appears in Vol6 No.4 Winter1993/1994 The Pint Post
Dodger Posey dodger at quack.kfu.com
malt makeup be raw w
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Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 17:51:39 -0800
From: reddy at qualcomm.com (Bob Eddy)
Subject: RIMS Source Data?
I've been reading tons about RIMS systems on r.c.b, Homebrew Digest, the
Stanford Archives, etc. I am interested in finding *one* source that
totally describes a RIMS system and its use. Everything I've seen so far
has it in bits and pieces. I've got a good handle on many of the pieces
but am still in search of the "Unified RIMS Theory". Can anyone direct me
to the source? I'm assuming it's in one of the Zymurgy special issues,
or...?
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Date: Fri, 04 Feb 1994 19:11:07 -0800 (PST)
From: MHUGH at GONZAGA.EDU
Subject:
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 1994 17:56:31 -0500
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Date: Fri, 04 Feb 1994 20:52:04 MST
From: Dan Wing <dwing at uh01.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Breckenridge Brewery
A few of us had lunch today at the Denver location of Breckenridge Brewery,
where they have the bottling operation behind glass at the back of the pub
section.
Their bottling machinery was apparently not completely filling some of their
bottles -- some were only getting 3/4 full (these are the larger bomber
bottles), and they'd get these bottles, uncap them, and pour them, by hand,
into other bottles to get a good fill, with the associated foaming when trying
to do this quickly....
I wonder if the "off" taste mentioned in HBD stems from their bottling
practices??
-dan
very new homebrewer
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Date: Sat, 05 Feb 94 08:45:31 EST
From: David Hulse <DSHULS00 at UKCC.UKY.EDU>
Subject: Sweetening mead
In HBD #1343, Ron McDowell asks "how can you add sweetness to something,
without having that sugar kick off another round of fermentation" (for
his mead). Some winemaking books suggest using lactose (milk sugar)
for doing exactly this. Apparently, the yeast can't ferment lactose!
However, lactose is only about 25% (?) as sweet as corn sugar, so I
guess you'd have to use more of it to get the sweetness you desire. Any
other thoughts on this?
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 06:11:15 -0800 (PST)
From: tlyons at netcom.com (Tom Lyons)
Subject: cannabis and beer
GANDE at slims.attmail.com writes:
>If one brews a "Brain Death Barleywine"
>and submits it to a competion without clearly identifying "Contains
>Marijuana" on the entry form, an unsuspecting BJCP judge with an
>intolerance to THC may have a reaction serious enough to go to
>the hospital.
And ANOTHER reason one should clearly label/disclose ingredients such
as that is that some people simply choose not to partake. If I were
handed such a bottle and drank it without knowing the contents, I would
have put my family, career, livelihood, etc at risk. My company maintains
a drug-free workplace, with random testing. If I failed a drug test I
would lose my job, whether or not I knew I was being dosed. BTW, don't
waste too much time being concerned for me because I work for such a
hard-nosed company. I'm a corporate officer and helped write the drug
policy. Flames to null at nowhere.com.
I trust my fellow brewers enough to beleive that they would not deliberately
fool me or anyone else into ingesting an illegal drug without prior
knowledge and consent. Homebrewers are just too honest and caring to
pull a stunt like that, IMHO.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 94 9:38:04 MST
From: npyle at n33.stortek.com
Subject: Glorious Homebrew/pH/English Brown
I just had to pass on a bit of homebrewing glory and thank the HBD for it:
I had a friend over last week to taste my latest American Brown Ale. It is a
dry-hopped deep copper colored ale that I kegged in the middle of January.
It was cloudy for a couple of weeks and then turned perfectly bright
overnight. The funny part is that I was telling him to come over and taste
my muddy brown ale. When he got there it was perfect!
Anyway, after showing him my home brewery, he proclaimed it the best designed
home brewery he had ever seen. He was really impressed with the roller mill,
custom burner, hop-back, CF chiller. After having a pint or two of ale (was
it the alcohol?) he said that it was the best homebrew he'd ever tasted. Now,
this isn't Michael Jackson, but he has brewed for years and quaffed many a
fine brew in his day. I can't help but think this great success (well, its
kinda great to me!) would be many years off without the wealth of knowledge
here in the HBD. I thank you and my beer thanks you! Kampai!
**
A note about pH: according to Miller, it stands for "power of Hydrogen",
implying the concentration of hygrogen ions, as stated by Tom Leith.
**
Michael Inglis writes about an English Brown with:
>6# 2-Row Klages
>1# Light brown sugar
> .5# Belgian Chocolate
> .5# 60L Crystal
and says:
>The result was a beer that ended up with a noticeable amount of oxidation
>(due
>to a mashing process error), too much alcohol (OG 1.058, FG 1.012) and a very
^^^^^
Impossible unless this was less than 5 gallons. Assuming 5 gallons, you have
58 * 5 = 290 points / 8 lbs. = 36.25 pts/lb/gal. Even with the sugar, I
can't believe this kind of extraction.
>biting roasty flavor more reminiscent of a stout than a Brown Ale. I
>understand the oxidation and alcohol problems, but the biting roasty flavor
>still has me stumped. I am wondering if "Belgian" Chocolate might give a
>stronger flavor than say a "British" Chocolate. Can anyone comment on
>whether
>or not this is correct? If not, then what could the problem be? TIA for
I would guess you mashed-out too high and/or oversparged. To get that kind
of extraction (or near it), you probably sparged to the limit, if not beyond.
The resulting astringency would come off as "biting". Did you take any pH
readings? Also, I believe oxygen and tannins are particularly nasty
bedfellows.
I'm sure someone will correct me if my math is in error...
Norm npyle at n33.stortek.com
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Date: Sat, 05 Feb 1994 12:21:07 -0500 (cdt)
From: Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ at AC.GRIN.EDU>
Subject: tipping carboys/oxygen in wort
To George Tempel, who is worried about tipping over his carboy while sampling
for hydrometer readings: sit on the floor and HUG your carboy. It's a
wonderful bonding experience and you can be sure you won't spill any this way
(or at any rate if you do it will be on yourself! -- hmmm, beer by osmosis?
beer rub-down??)
To John Palmer, who discusses oxygen in wort (a "two-edged sword"), and for
that matter anyone else who wants to chime in: you stste that the
introduction of oxygen after the onset of fermentation is bad. This, I woul
assume, means "do not aerate the wort when transferring to secondary, and be
as careful as possible to avoid splashing etc. while siphoning." Correct?
Can we hear a little more about how oxygen introduced before fermentation is
finished can produce off-flavors? Thanks.
Jonathan Knight
Grinnell, Iowa
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Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 09:39:32 GMT
From: dan.creagan at laka.com (DAN CREAGAN)
Subject: help
help
If this is a human, please send a bit of info about the homebrew list
(ie: traffic, sign up procedure, etc).
Dan Creagan
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Date: Sat, 05 Feb 1994 17:11:55 -0400
From: Ed Hitchcock <ECH at ac.dal.ca>
Subject: gluteraldehyde
Gluteraldhyde is used as a fixative for electron microscopy. I don't have
the safety sheet handy, but people around here treat it with respect. I
personally wouldn't use it anywhere near anything vaguely food related.
ed
____________
Ed Hitchcock ech at ac.dal.ca | Oxymoron: Draft beer in bottles. |
Anatomy & Neurobiology | Pleonasm: Draft beer on tap. |
Dalhousie University, Halifax |___________________________________|
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Date: Sat, 5 Feb 94 22:11:07 EST
From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
Subject: Vienna recipe and IBU help
Ulick Stafford asks how to measure IBUs with LC?
You want "Chemistry and Analysis of Hop and Beer Bitter Acids" by
Verzele. Elsevier, 1991. #27 in Developments in Food Science. ISBN
0-444-88165-4.
He's hot on LC methods.
Then there's the simple method (from chapter 17):
Beer (10g) is acidified with 1ml HCl
1N, 25 ml iso-octane is added and the mixture is thoroughly shaken.
The absorbance (A) of the iso-octane layer is measured at 276nm. The
figure is converted into the content of iso-alpha acids using the
following equation:
Iso-alpha acids/kg = (28.6*Viso*A)/Vbeer - 5.8
The obtained figure is for iso-alpha acids/kg, but this is
practically also the amount per litre as the precision of the
method is too low for measuring this small difference.
He doesn't say what the units are, but I have to assume they're mg/kg
(i.e., ppm, i.e. IBUs). Also, I assume Viso=25 and Vbeer=10. (He
notes that you should always measure the beer by weight, to avoid
foaming problems from affecting the measurement).
The LC method he proposes in the next section requires the use of
special "Hop analysis" column materials.
=S
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Date: Sat, 5 Feb 94 22:34:34 CST
From: "Charles S. Jackson" <sjackson at ftmcclln-amedd.army.mil>
Subject: Cidex sterilization
Mark wrote inquiring about the perfect sterilant - Cidex. While I haev no
experience with it brewing (heck I am still waiting to start my first batch) I
do have a fair experience with the stuff in the surgical arena. It was a
popular sterilizer/disinfectant soak for many years although it has fallen
aside over the past years. It *IS* effective as it kills spores and TB
bacillus if the fomites are given adequate contact time. I can't remember the
exact times required but I believe they rec: 12 hours for total sterilzation.
It comes in a 2 part configuration and after mixing ahs a shelf life of 30
days, after which its effectiveness is reduced.
At last glance it cost about $30.00 a gallon (government price) and
because it is a *medical* product might be difficult for the average joe to
obtain. Who knows, maybe a black market will spring up. Viva la free market
enterprise!
Steve
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Date: Sat, 05 Feb 1994 00:31:29
From: lkbonham at beerlaw.win.net (Louis K. Bonham)
Subject: Oak aging
Recently there's been a bit of traffic regarding oak barrels and
aging, mostly between the "oak imparts tannins; nobody would use
it" crowd vs. the "I've seen lots of oak beer casks; so it must be
OK" crowd.
I would call all of your attention to Terry Foster's discussion of
this subject in *Pale Ale*. In it, he notes that traditional
English ale casks are made from English or Polish oak, which does
*not* impart much in the way of tannins. They are definitely
**not** made from the American or other types of oak that are
typically used in wine or whiskey barrels, as these *do* give a lot
of tannin to the taste. (In fact, Foster quotes one beer cooper who
says he would never use American oak because "it would spoil the
beer's taste.") Thus, to an extent, both sides are partially right
and partially wrong.
As for AB's "beechwood aging," that's more to help the yeast drop
out than anything else.
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Date: Sat, 5 Feb 94 13:27:00 -0800
From: jim.king at kandy.com (Jim King)
Subject: Homebrewing BBS
Mitchell Evans asks about a Hombrewing BBS
H> 1) If there was a homebrewing BBS in your town, would you support i
H> (post messages, participate in get-togethers, etc)
Yes. In fact, being in Anaheim, I would call a San Diego board
regularly.
H> 2) What would you like to see on a BBS?
Recipies, ideas for equipment, reccomdeations of local microbreweries,
etc.
I look forward to seeing you start one up.
- Jim
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Date: Sun, 6 Feb 94 07:06:06 -0800
From: Tony_Quinn at f1004.n202.z1.fidonet.org
Subject: Beer Related BBS
Hi guys,
Just responding to Mitch's post in the last digest about homebrew
related BBS's in the San Diego area. Fidonet 202/1004 <In Heaven
There Is No Beer> is a hombrew related BBS in San Diego and carries
the Zymurgy echo, alt.beer, rec.crafts brewing, rec.crafts.winemaking,
and has the cider, lambic, mead-lovers, and homebrew digests back to
the beginning available for download/FReq. There's full access on the
first call and although its only a lowly OPUS CBCS program, you can
post to the various digests if you wish, and do the other various BBS
things i.e. upload/download/send internet mail, etc. There's no formal
internet access so there's no IRC/WWW/GOPHER/WAIS etc
I personally think that Mitch should jump right in. The more
the merrier. From his address and the one call I've made to his
system, it looks like he's running something UNIX based possibly with
direct internet access. If so, the computer cognoscenti will probably
gravitate there, while the great unwashed can use the older
technology.
By the way
In Heaven There Is No Beer 619 667 0159 Fidonet 202/1004
Tata
Tony
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Date: Sun, 6 Feb 1994 12:41:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Russell Kofoed <kofoedr at elwha.evergreen.edu>
Subject: Hales Wee Heavy recipe?
Howdy folks...I live in the great Pacific Northwest where I can get 100's
of great beers on tap all the time. One of the beers I really, really
like is a Winter ale called Hales Wee Heavy. It is malty, almost
sweet,and really strong. It is mildly hopped(unlike many winter ales and
lagers) and has the fruity overtones of an amber ale. It is amber in
color-although darker than the standard Ambers(Full Sail etc.) I am
looking for a recipe to imitate with. Has anybody tried to match this
one? Should I just take an amber ale recipe and start adding extra malt?
Any good winter ale (but not lagered)recipes would be of help. Thanks in
advance.
Russell Kofoed
kofoedr at elwha.evergreen.edu
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Date: Sun, 6 Feb 1994 21:06:21 -0600 (CST)
From: "Mark S. Woods" <woodsman at genesis.mcs.com>
Subject: Using Laaglander in starters
A few weeks ago I bought some Laaglander DME to use in a beer that a
downstate friend was also going to brew using the same ingredients.
Anyway, I decided to make up 12 quarts of yeast starters using some
surplus Laaglander following Dave Miller's procedure for doing so.
Everything seemed to go well during the process. The next day I pitched a
Wyeast California Lager yeast. Nothing happened. I waited for three days
then assumed something might have been wrong with the yeast (I had punched
the foil container a few weeks before, then didn't use the yeast. I stored
the swelled package in the fridge). I bought another package of the same
yeast, let it swell up then threw it in the same starter. A week later and
still nothing. I gave up for a bit since I had a beer waiting for the yeast.
Now I've experienced the same problem using Wyeast Bavarian Wheat yeast.
After all of the discussion on Laaglander's high finishing gravity, I'm
beginning to wonder if that might not have been the problem all along. I
just checked the SG of my starter wort. It is 1.046. I checked the SG of
my California starter after several days and it was 1.024. I assume now
this is appropriate for Laaglander. Is it likely that the small amount of
wort fermented quickly and I just never saw it? Any comments on my whole
miserable experience?
Thanks,
Mark
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1344, 02/07/94