HOMEBREW Digest #1360 Mon 28 February 1994

Digest #1359 Digest #1361

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Alchohol Spray/Steeping Special Malts (maitlandf)
  results of question on Brettanomyces (Joel Birkeland)
  question on mailing (BILL FUHRMANN)
  Problems with. . . (MAJ TJ CREAMER)
  Reinheitsgebot/High Altitude Brewing (npyle)
  hydrometers, nerds, and antiquity (philosophy ramble) (Laura E Conrad)
  Iodine; 10 gallon batches (AYLSWRTH)
  re nerds/antiquity (Chip Hitchcock)
  rheinheitsgebot (sp?) (James Clark)
  Bock im Stein bottles (Cree-ee-py Boy)
  MICROMASHER (Jack Schmidling)
  Isinglass (George Kavanagh O/o)
  Re: old coffee machine auto-spargers (Ed Hitchcock)
  Bride's Ale (PFLUGER)
  root beer (Sean Rooney)
  drilling (SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42)
  Plastic Buckets/B-Brite/Ice Beer/James Page Kit Esters (korz)
  information ("Eric J. Wickham")
  Wyeast 3056 (Wolfe)
  Sierra Nevada Porter/Chestnut Brown Ale (Jack Skeels)
  nitrogen/CO2 mix (Brian Bliss)
  Even cheaper carboys (snystrom)
  Shelf Life (Paul Merrifield)
  carbonation & 3 other questions (RADAMSON)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 17:11:10 EST From: maitlandf at aol.com Subject: Alchohol Spray/Steeping Special Malts Ok, two questions- first- someone was talking about alchohol spray for sterilizing. Why do you dilute the alchohol in the first place? And as well, do you have to use sterile water? Second-I have been reading about brewing with specialty malts. Papazian says to mix with cold water and bring to a boil, but other people say to steep for various amounts of time at about 150 degrees. What's the difference here? If you were mashing, you would boil the malt. Why the difference with malt extract brewing? Thanks, Mait MaitlandF at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 17:22:11 MST From: birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland) Subject: results of question on Brettanomyces I would like to thank everyone who responded to my questions about the Brettanomyces Bruxellensis culture available from Wyeast. Several people took a lot of time to give lengthy and very informative responses; too lengthy to include here, actually. I would like to try and summarize, hoping that I do not introduce too much distortion: 1) To make a p-Lambic, many suggested using a Wyeast ale culture, a Wyeast Brett. culture, and a GW Kent Pedio. culture. The details are summarized in the Lambic Digest FAQ. 2) Use Brett. in the secondary for an old ale or porter. 3) The taste has been described as sweaty horse blanket. 4) Fermentation times are long, of the order of 1 year. Finally, I didn't mean to sound petulant when I said that I had asked earlier and got no responses. Thanks for all of the help, Joel Birkeland Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 12:19:00 GMT From: BILL.FUHRMANN at tstation.mn.org (BILL FUHRMANN) Subject: question on mailing TO: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Is it possible to get the digest sent out un-digested? That is, is it possible to get the individual messages mailed out. The sysop of the BBS I use has set up a conference that captures the HBD for all of us who are interested. However, since the mail system here only handles messages up to 100 lines in length, it breaks up the digest at random points into shorter messages. The system here handles individual messages very well for reading and it would be nicer to have the HBD that way. * QMPro 1.0 41-6621 * Assaulting expired equines Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 18:05:36 +0000 (JST) From: Brian Schlueter <schluetb at emh.kadena.af.mil> Subject: WORLD-WIDE BREW CLUB LIST WORLD-WIDE BREW CLUB LIST Just a reminder the time is ticking away! Have you entered your brew club? -------------------------------- We need the following info to make the list complete! 1) Brew Club Name or Sponsor 2) Snail Mail Address 3) # of Members 4) Do you want a copy ? (NEW) 5) Information on club meetings..When?, Where?, What? (NEW) 6) Your sources Send to: schluetb at emh.kadena.af.mil If you do not belong to a club, personals will be accepted, We got to know who's out there to get you intouch with a your local club! TO PROMOTE THE SACRED ART OF ZYMURGY.......We All Must BREW-ON! Thank you for your prompt response! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat Feb 26 06:13:08 1994 From: ht6141 at eecs1.eecs.usma.edu (MAJ TJ CREAMER) Subject: Problems with. . . >. . .(now how to say this delicately?). . .not being able to burp! Let me explain, a freshly brewed malt extract (Midlands Brown Ale from James Paige Brewing Co.) produces this effect in the two tasters thus far: There tends to be this increasing pressure feeling either between the shoulder blades or right about where people get the feeling they want to burp, but can't!!! Anybody ever have a batch that results in this prob? Is this an infection of sorts (even though my bottles/brew appear to be crystal clear)? This is such an annoyance, that I am about to trash the whole brew, and start over. TJ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 94 9:56:45 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Reinheitsgebot/High Altitude Brewing Dave Smucker writes: >In HBD #1355 Dan Z. Johnson comments about " Reinheitsgebot " >and how there are good beers in countries without it. True, >but have you ever had a BAD beer in Germany? Have you ever had >a BAD BAD beer in the good old USA? Yep!! Enough said. This is meaningless to the homebrewer. Abiding with Reinheitsgebot, you can make an absolutely undrinkable beer. You can also make a classic. Ignoring it, you can make an absolutely worthless beer. You can also make a classic. Is this disputable? I don't think so. My conclusion: Reinheitsgebot is not the determining factor in making fine beer, therefore it is not meaningful to me. It is worthy of a foonote, for curiosity sake. People love to bash Charlie Papazian in this forum, but he has taught me that making good beer requires very few rules. No, this is not "enough said", but it is for now. ** Don Put mentions that high altitudes affect hop utilization. I presume this is correct due to the lower boiling point of water, but he does not say. I brew at around 5000 feet, so I'd be interested more information in this area. Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 12:59:02 -0500 From: lconrad at world.std.com (Laura E Conrad) Subject: hydrometers, nerds, and antiquity (philosophy ramble) I think it is exactly such intuitive processes as you describe that cookbooks are intended to "teach" beginners. My grandmother (who grew up on a farm in Poland) never used a cookbook in her life, and we have essentially lost some of her recipes, because she wasn't able to describe them in cookbook terms, and she also wasn't good at teaching in person. (If you weren't doing something right, she would come and do it for you.) (It didn't help that she lived in a different state all the time I was growing up.) But the people who write cookbooks have done some thinking about how you describe these things to beginners who are in a different state from their mothers and grandmothers, or are doing something their families didn't do. Some of this thinking is better than others. The soft ball stage for when to stop cooking fudge is nothing like as good as a thermometer. But the people who wrote that fudge recipe were thinking that having to buy a thermometer might really be a barrier to someone who wanted to see what making fudge was like. If we want to expand the brewing community, we need to at least try to figure out what the barriers to TRYING it are, and how we can make it easier, even if it involves some compromises with the way a really committed brewer would brew. Laura lconrad at world.std.com lconrad at epoch.com ... Moreover, it's true that people made beer for centuries (millenia, even) without any fancy aids, but it's also the case that brewing used to be a normal home activity. Everyone was exposed to it from youth on, so they had day-to-day experience with the process. They didn't suddenly wake up in their early 20's to the realization that they could make beer, and have to start from scratch. (You can think of what we're doing in HBD as over- coming cultural deprivation.:-) Moreover, they had a lot more bad beer back then than we want to deal with now! Taking another angle on this: I've brewed now and then for about 15 years. I use some recipes and about an average number of gadgets. But when I bake bread, the only things I really measure are yeast if I use pre-measured packets, and oven temperature. Ingredient measures really are "this much in the hand" of salt and "a glop like this" of oil, "yo much" water, and so on. Now, several points about this, relevant to brewing: * I've been making bread for 35 years. Along the way, it's gotten to where I don't need to measure ingredients, use a thermometer on the liquid for the yeast, time the rising, etc. That doesn't mean these factors aren't checked; it just means I have enough experience to know them without a measuring device. And yes, I screwed up enough along the way...as often as not even *with* recipes. ... * I can't teach anyone to make bread effectively, because by now so much of the process is intuitive that I don't know what to describe. It would be a lot easier if I were less sure of myself. You may work intuitively, but you can't teach intuition. - --- Dick Dunn rcd at eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA ...Mr Natural says, "Get the right tool for the job!" Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 94 13:18:23 EST From: AYLSWRTH at MANVM2.VNET.IBM.COM Subject: Iodine; 10 gallon batches I was in a local homebrew supply shop yesterday and they had a sanitizer (can't remember the brandname - Iodosphor or something?) whose active ingredient is based on iodine. The owner claims that he uses is himself and that it does not require rinsing. I have been using bleach and rinsing well with hot water afterwards and never had problems. But, the idea of using something that does not require rinsing is appealing. So, my question is, does anyone out there use this stuff? What do you think of it? Do you rinse? My main concern would be that it might add off-flavors to the beer, is this a real concern? Also, I have been looking to move up to 10 gallon batches. Since I like to boil all my wort, I would like suggestions from people on what they are using to boil 10 gallons. I am currently living in an apartment with an electric stove, that actually does quite well for 5 gallons - better than electric stoves I have used. Next month I will be moving into a house with a gas stove (my main requirement when looking to buy a house!). Will the gas stove be able to bring 11.5 gallons of wort to a boil reasonably quickly, and keep a good rolling boil going for an hour? Or should I invest in one of these King Cooker things? Also, how much should I expect to pay for a 12-15 gallon stainless steel pot? Any other suggestions or recommendations from 10 gallon batch brewers? Thanks, Thomas Aylesworth Dept. PX8/Space Processor Software Engineering Federal Systems Company, Manassas, VA - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Internet: aylswrth at manvm2.vnet.ibm.com | PROFS: AYLSWRTH at MANVM2 Phone: (703) 367-6171 | T/L: 725-6171 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 94 14:27:24 EST From: cjh at diaspar.HQ.ileaf.com (Chip Hitchcock) Subject: re nerds/antiquity Good points, but are you aware of the old German regulation that actually did use the seat of the pants? A little of the beer was to be poured out and sat in by the inspector (wearing leather pants, according to both sources I've read); the quality was measured by whether the pants stuck to the surface for a moment when the inspector stood up. I'm not making this up(*), and the two sources I got it from would be impeccable if it weren't that they disagreed about the calibration: one says that pants sticking meant the beer hadn't fermented out, and the other said pants not sticking meant the beer was too watery. Can anyone authoritatively support/debunk this story? Reply to cjh at ileaf.com and I'll summarize (if I get anything). * visualize Anna Russell, in the middle of trying to explain Wagner's DER RING DES NIBELUNGEN, saying "I'm not making this up, you know!" while the audience has hysterics.... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 11:53:55 -0500 From: jeclark at bullwinkle.ucdavis.edu (James Clark) Subject: rheinheitsgebot (sp?) and to think that i took five years of german and am not sure of the spelling! anyways, i only caught the tail end of this thread, so if my $0.02 is irrelivant to what was actually being discussed...oh well: a friend of mine introduced me to anderson valley's oatmeal stout. it was the most heavenly beer i had ever tasted (at the time). i was so excited that i told a german friend of mine about it. much to my surprise he went absolutely ape s%#t. he told me that oatmeal had no place in beer and that real beer only had malt, hops, water, blah, blah. i guess what i'm trying to say is that the rheinheitsgebot is not neccessarily a bad thing, but a lot of people take it way too seriously, and i have a hard time accepting this kind of extremist mentality. here's an example (although not from germany): has anyone out there tasted "winterhook ale" (brewed by seatle brewing co. i think?). this beer had only hops, water, barley and yeast, but it had no flavor, no body and was thoroughly uninteresting and even a little unpleasant to drink (imho). i think good beer involves a lot more that just following a strict set of guidelines. happy brewing (and drinking) - --james Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 14:58:46 -0600 (CST) From: Cree-ee-py Boy <BIRMINGH at FNALV.FNAL.GOV> Subject: Bock im Stein bottles Carl Howes asks about Bock im Stein bottles: > Is there anyone > out there who has tried this or has enough knowledge about stoneware > who can tell me if these can be reasonably sanitized? i.e. will my > standard bleach solution do the trick, or should I use heat, or just > toss the idea? TIA. I busted one of these bottles open with a hammer once, and they are glazed on the inside. They ought to do just fine with the standard bleach solution, but you have to be meticulous about keeping them clean, because you can never know whether or not they are dirty otherwise. Phillip Birmingham Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 94 18:20 CST From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: MICROMASHER Not sure just what to call it but a scaled UP version of the EASYMASHER is now available for the bold and adventuresome microbrewery or brew pub operator. I know of no reason why it will not work as well as the homebrew version but I have no way of proving it here. I am looking for a micro operator willing to give it a try. Like the homebrew version, it is all brass, stainless and copper and requires only a drill and a wrench to install it. It seems to me that it would appeal most to the extract brewer who wants to get into all grain but doesn't have $5000 to spend on a mash/lauter tun. The same kettle used to boil the wort can be used to mash and lauter. For more info email or phone, Jack Schmidling (312) 685 1878 Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Feb 1994 09:57:17 From: George Kavanagh O/o <George.Kavanagh at omail.wang.com> Subject: Isinglass Can anyone relate the merits, problems, and methods of use of isinglass finings? I have read TNCJOHB entry, but am curious for more info. I have a boottle of a liquid preparation of "Isinglass Finings" packaged by Wines, Inc. of Akron, OH. Label sez to use 1 tsp per gallon of beer. When? Just before bottling, or should I let it rest awhile between adding the finings & bottling? Thanks! -gk Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 11:19:52 -0400 From: Ed Hitchcock <ECH at ac.dal.ca> Subject: Re: old coffee machine auto-spargers My fellow countryman Glenn Anderson has taken up the challenge of building a SPARGATRON 6000 (The name is tongue in cheek, yes). However, there is one aspect of coffee-maker physics that I had better re-explain. The way a coffee maker works is that water expands in the element, and is forced out (to your coffee grounds) because there is a check valve preventing backflow to the reservoir. Thus for homebrewing purposes, the reservoir and the element NEED NOT BE ABOVE THE MASH TUN. They all sit side by side on the counter. I'm glad Glenn got his to work as a flow-through heater, and that is how he probably got higher temps. But for me, the real fun is that I don't have to have three fifferent levels for reservoir- lauter tun- boiler, since the reservoir and lauter tun sit on the same counter. Also, the SPARGATRON 6000 behaves like a coffee maker in that it burbles and spits in little bursts, which drives my dog nuts. /=======\ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | ____|_ | | |_______|=======|____| |_______| reservoir sparger lautertun ____________ Ed Hitchcock ech at ac.dal.ca | Oxymoron: Draft beer in bottles. | Anatomy & Neurobiology | Pleonasm: Draft beer on tap. | Dalhousie University, Halifax |___________________________________| Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 12:02:07 -0500 (EST) From: PFLUGER at delphi.com Subject: Bride's Ale A few months ago, I read somewhere about an interesting colonial tradition. It seems it was customary to brew a special ale for wedding celebrations. The article claimed this "bride's ale" was eventually shortened to "bridal," and was the origin of the modern word. My former brewing partner is getting married soon, and I want to brew a special bride's ale for the occasion. Unfortunately, the article I read did not say what, if anything, was unique about a bride's ale. Does anyone know of this tradition, and specifically how to make a bride's ale? Recipes would be greatly appreciated. Also, if anyone doesn't know of the tradition, but has a recipe they think would lend itself to a wedding celebration, send it along. ******************************************** ** Greg Pfluger ** PFLUGER at DELPHI.COM ** ******************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 11:14:30 -0600 From: Sean.Rooney at uic.edu (Sean Rooney) Subject: root beer Does anyone have a recipe for making root beer from scratch, i.e. using roots and herbs rather than root beer extract? TIA Sean Rooney University of Illinois at Chicago Department of Genetics U33388 at uicvm.uic.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 94 17:59:00 +0000 From: SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42 at ptp.hp.com Subject: drilling Here's two tips for drilling metal (stainless or not). 1. Drill a pilot hole. I always drill a small hole (about 1/16") before going for anything bigger. This way the larger bit gets a better bite. Take a look at the business end of your larger bits, they usually have a "flat" spot where the two cutting edges meet. Without the pilot hole, this part has to cut metal, and it doesn't do this very well. For holes bigger than 1/4" I usually make two pilot holes, first 1/16, then 1/4. Try it, you'll like it. 2. When I took a machine shop class way back when, I learned a rule for cutting metal... ...FEED, NOT SPEED. What this means, is that to cut metal faster, increase the rate at which the cutting surface is pushed into the metal. This means pushing harder on a drill, or pushing a saw harder along the cut path. The NOT SPEED half means don't go to higher RPM on a drill or faster up and down on the saw. This only generates more heat, which will take the temper out of the cutting edge and leave you with a dull balde or bit. 3. (I lied about just two tips). The bigger the bit, the slower the RMP on the drill. There is an optimum speed for cutting. This is the speed the cutting edge of the drill bit goes around the hole, and is the RPM times the radius from the center of the bit to where the cuttung edge is working. Find the best speed by watching the shavings coming off the drill bit. They should be long and curly, not little pieces. In general, USE LOWER RPM (See tip #2). For a 1/2" bit, you should be to down around 60 RPM. That's one revolution per second. With this low speed, its important to have that pilot hole (see tip #1) because the center of the bit is now going way to slow to cut much of anything. Mike Schrempp Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 94 12:18 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Plastic Buckets/B-Brite/Ice Beer/James Page Kit Esters OWEN writes: >Derek Sheehan wrote to ask what was so awful about using plastic buckets >for primary fermentation, and went on to say that he had excellent >results from plastic. So do I. Some oxygen probably does diffuse through >the sides, but not enough to matter, and in any case the wort is >saturated with CO2 and can't take up much oxygen. Some oxygen does diffuse through the sides of a plastic fermenter, but it's not correct to say that "the wort is saturated with CO2 and can't take up much oxygen." I'm afraid that's not how gasses and liquids work. Leaving your beer in a plastic fermenter for a short amount of time (1 to 2 weeks) won't harm the beer too much, and actually, there's quite a bit more danger of oxygen effect on finished beer than on fermenting beer -- the oxygen will combine with the alcohol in the finished beer to create aldehydes which are rather unwelcome flavors/aromas in beer. >Camden tablets and >citric acid seem to do an adequate job of disinfecting. Boiling water >works well too, and is quite safe on polypropylene. Campden tablets will sanitize the water (or juice or whatever) they are put into, but the liquid is not a very good sanitizer. Using citric acid is a new one on me, but I suspect that the concentration you need for sanitizing is too high to make citric acid economically feasable as a sanitizer. Indeed, boiling water is a good sanitizer, but most (not all) plastic fermenters in the US are polyethylene and not polypropylene (not that this means you cannot use boiling water to sanitize them -- it's just that HDPE tends to get very soft at boiling water temperatures). >Stainless steel looks >good and is probably easier to clean, but for home brewing in 4-gallon >lots, plastic is fine. Just make sure it's food grade and doesn't have >nasty toxic plasticizers that can leach out into your beer. Overally, I agree that if you don't keep the beer in them too long, plastic fermenters are fine and use a 20 gallon one for my big batches, but am very concious to not scratch it and rack the beer into glass secondaries or kegs as soon as primary fermentation is over. ***** Ken writes: >I am using B-Brite for the first time instead of bleach. Should I let it >dry or rinse it? I have a batch of stout in my secondary that I cleaned >with B-Brite. The outside has a few milky stains where I didn't wipe it >off. I did thoroughly rinse the carboy, but I have something similiar >INSIDE the carboy. It's even below the level of the beer. It's a ribbed >carboy and it's right below both ribs and it'a definately on the inside. Is >this from the B-brite? Yes, the milky stains are carbonates. Personally, I rinse when I sanitize with B-Brite or One-Step sanitizers, but in the wintertime, my water has proven to be virtually microbiologically inactive. If you have bacteria in your water, you may want to use boiled, cooled water or cheap industrial beer. I use One-Step (virtually the same as B-Brite), but limit contact time to 5-10 minutes, then I rinse a lot. If you leave the stuff in the container for a while, I think that might be where the problems arise. *********** Several people wrote about ice beer. From my conversation with a person from Anheuser-Busch (just some sap giving out samples at a beer show), the beer is filtered after being chilled to below freezing and some of the ice is thus removed. He said that they put back most of the water however, but that this (in addition to their using corn instead of rice) makes the beer smoother. I reluctantly tasted it, and recall that it had less flavor than their regular beer (which, in the case of Bud, is a good thing), but that I would rather drink water. In no way should the new NorthAmerican Ice Beers be confused with true Eisbocks from Germany (I have not had the opportunity to try Niagra's, so I will withold judgement). Bottom line (in my book): american ice beers are just one more fad. A recent trend by the majors that includes such entries as Miller Velvet Stout, on the other hand, I feel are a "good thing" since they are a stepping stone for swill-drinkers to reach for real beer flavor such as Sierra Nevada, Youngs, Chimay, etc. ******** BUCK writes: **** I HAVE BREWED A FEW OF JAMES PAGE KITS. EASY TO USE. GREAT EASY TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS FOR A NEW HOMEBREWER. I DISLIKED THE PALE ALE THEY HAVE IN KIT FORM. THE BEER HAD EXTREME FRUITY ESTERS. WAS THIS DUE TO THE YEAST SUPPLIED BY JAMES PAGE OR WAS IT TO WARM IN THE HOUSE WHILE FERMENTATION WAS UNDERWAY? Could be both. Higher fermentation temperatures will increase ester production of any yeast. Some yeasts produce lots of esters even at 63F, others produce few esters at temperatures as high as 70F. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 94 14:01:20 EST From: "Eric J. Wickham" <34R7ENG at CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU> Subject: information I'm considering purchasing a brewing kit to brew beer. At what temperarures must it be kept at? Does it need to be heated or refridgeratered? Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Feb 94 13:15 CST From: Wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Subject: Wyeast 3056 I've brewed 2 batches of wheat beer with the Wyeast 3056. Niether has had much of a banana or clove taste to it. The first had a very slight amount of clove esters (I fermented it at around 65F). The second had virtually no esters (I fermented it around 58F like the yeast FAQ suggested). Could anyone who has used a different wheat yeast and had better results give me a suggestion? What about temperatures for the other yeasts described in the yeast FAQ? Does anyone have data points for good/bad results with other wheat yeasts? Ed Wolfe Iowa City, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 94 14:20 EST From: Jack Skeels <0004310587 at mcimail.com> Subject: Sierra Nevada Porter/Chestnut Brown Ale Greetings Homebrewers, A big thanks to Tony Babinec for the great SNPA recipe he posted in early Feb, which I converted to Extract-based (6 lbs Alexander's LME, O.G.=1.050). Looks and smells like a great batch! (Dave Shaver will you ever send the three of us (awaiting) your recipe?) Does anyone have an extract (or otherwise) recipe for SN Porter? I've just fallen in love with this beer. Also, I attended the recent Karnival of Beers in Fullerton (CA), and enjoyed the wonderful selection of beers. Digressing for a moment, it was a decent event, the food looked greasy and dismal, but they gave each person about 50 tasting coupons -- did anybody use them all up?? But,... there was a wonderful beer there called "Chestnut Brown Ale", with a great light-nut flavor to it. Unfortunately I don't remember the brewery's name. Does anyone have a recipe for this or something like it? Recommendations from the Cat's Meow?? Thanks for being there! Jack Skeels JSKEELS at MCIMAIL.COM "HBD --> My favorite Rest Area on the Information Superhighway" Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 14:44:03 -0600 From: bliss at pixel.convex.com (Brian Bliss) Subject: nitrogen/CO2 mix what is the proper storage/dispensing pressure for Guinness when using a N2/CO2 mix? is it different from the "normal" 10-15 psi used to store other brews at, and if so, is this because of the gas mixture or just a Guinness pecularity? bb Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 94 17:56:25 EST From: snystrom at aol.com Subject: Even cheaper carboys In HBD 1343 Michael D. Hansen states he found 5 gallon carboys for $10.99 at Waccamaw in Rolling Meadows. I don't know about the rest of the country, but my source of even cheaper carboys is Corning-Revere Factory stores, when the going price is 8.99, a savings of . . . $2*!!!!! Standard disclaimers apply Happy carboy hunting! Scott *A product of Mexico Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 14:03:00 -0500 From: paul.merrifield at onlinesys.com (Paul Merrifield) Subject: Shelf Life Why is it that the beer brewed at U-BREWS have such a short shelf life of about three months yet if I brew the same extract beer at home it takes that long to age let alone keep for a year or so? Sure one is primed and the other forced corbonated but is this the answer and why? Is it the poorer sanitary conditions at U-BREWS? I would like some thoughts on this. paul.merrifield at onlinesys.com London Ont. Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 19:40:18 -0500 (EST) From: RADAMSON at delphi.com Subject: carbonation & 3 other questions A brew friend of mine has a problem. He's 5 ale-batches along and every one is becoming over-carbonated at about the 2-month-in-bottle stage. He has tried varying his headspace from .5" to 2" within the same batch; regularly primes with corn sugar at 5/8 cup to each _6 Gal_ batch. All are extract ales with some partial mashes (a lb or 2 extra grain). His secondary goes from 2 to 3 weeks and SG stays put for 3-4 days, usually around 1.014-8. And all still the same result. Even his temperatures are normal (69F for 5 days after bottling and then to the 58F basement for storage). He's getting concerned that he can't keep any batch of beers longer than 3 months, and what will he do for the summer?! (I told him to keep brewing). I've suggested longer periods in secondary (mine are known to go around 8), or cut down on priming sugar (I prefer lessor carbs too). Oh, this might matter - he does concentrated wort boils and adds about 3 gal cold water to make 6 gal. (I'm just trying to add the things he does differently than I - since mine are "under-carb'd"). "Isn't anybody gonna help this poor man?" "Quiet, Harriet - That's a sho-nuff way to get him killed." Man, the things we have to worry about...! Thanks, Rick Adamson; Brewer, Patriot, and '94 Steelers Fan (stuck in LongIsland). RADAMSON at delphi.com P.S. I had a couple questions for myself: 1) If I've forgotten to take a final SG reading at bottling time, can I get a valid one from a 'finished' bottle - you know - later, when I pour one to enjoy? 2) When, in the brewing process, would one add fruit extract to, say, a stout? 3) And, when (as above) would one add malto-dextrin (not grain) to, say, a stout? Thanks, again. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1360, 02/28/94