HOMEBREW Digest #1361 Tue 01 March 1994

Digest #1360 Digest #1362

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Mail order source of hop vine roots (Matthew Howell)
  Building a wine cellar (Steven Slaby)
  HOMEBREWING 101, QUEENS OF ("Patricia Moline")
  Re: Isinglass (Josh Grosse)
  potato(e)s (RONALD DWELLE)
  Re: Even Cheaper Carboys (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL at igate.abbott.com>
  Beercaps (Christopher Alan Strickland)
  Pumpkin Ale ("Micah A. Singer")
  Acid Washing (Geoff_Scott)
  spigot installation in plastic bucket (Jonathan G Knight)
  brewing books for the rest of us (Mark A. Stevens)
  UBREW Shelf Life (GANDE)
  Seat of the pants brewing, iodaphor, hop book reveiw (Bob Jones)
  Yeast stickiness/African brews (Michael Sheridan)
  Brewing; the Art of Cooking vs. Science (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Seattle Sally ("C. John Mare")
  British Malt in German Beer (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Cooking vs Science, yeast query (Jeff Benjamin)
  U.K. Brewing/Fermenting (Andrew Ireland)
  Scotch and Scottish Ales (wyatt)
  New Homebrew club (CLINT BIHM)
  How to Get Started/ SN Porter ("Palmer.John")
  Stuck Barley wine... (djt2)
  alcohol sanitation/specialty malts/ (korz)
  Archives (Richard Buckberg)
  low-tech homebrewing: lagering and yeast banks (evanms)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 08:20:49 -0500 From: Matthew Howell <howell at ll.mit.edu> Subject: Mail order source of hop vine roots I am interested in growing my own hops this spring. Can anyone provide me with an address and/or phone number of a good mail order source of hop vine roots? Also, any advice regarding hop growing, for southern New Hampshire in particular, would be greatly appreciated. Matt Howell howell at ll.mit.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 08:45:10 -0500 From: an492 at freenet.carleton.ca (Steven Slaby) Subject: Building a wine cellar I am new to the group, and do not have access to get any archives or FAQ file so here goes my question.... I would like to build a small wine cellar (160 btls) in my basement, and I was hoping to here some suggestions on how to build it. My basement does not have a cold room, but I am in the process of finishing right now, and it is the perfect time to plan any changes to the layout... Thanks, Steve. - -- "Grind on my gas pedal, Redliner touching my Heart" | 67 Firebird Convert. by Max Webster | 82 Seca 650 Turbo | 76 Honda XL250 Steve Slaby, Ottawa, Canada | 86 Jimmy Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Feb 1994 08:45:37 U From: "Patricia Moline" <patricia_moline at mailgate.Armstrong.EDU> Subject: HOMEBREWING 101, QUEENS OF REGARDING HOMEBREWING 101, QUEENS OF BEER, COOPERS, CORNELIUS KEGS Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 06:47 PST From: jdg00 at juts.ccc.amdahl.com (Josh Grosse) Subject: Re: Isinglass In #1360, George Kavanagh asked: >Can anyone relate the merits, problems, and methods of use of isinglass >finings? I have read TNCJOHB entry, but am curious for more info. >I have a boottle of a liquid preparation of "Isinglass Finings" packaged >by Wines, Inc. of Akron, OH. Label sez to use 1 tsp per gallon of beer. >When? Just before bottling, or should I let it rest awhile between >adding the finings & bottling? I've used Isinglass when making cask conditioned ales. I've used it at kegging time, and add it at the same time I add dextrose. I switched back to Polyclar. IMHO, I wouldn't bother using isinglass with bottled beer at all. But then, the stuff I have is powdered, and never dissolved well. When I use Polyclar, I add it immediately after racking to the secondary. - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Josh Grosse jdg00 at juts.ccc.amdahl.com Amdahl Corp. joshua.grosse at amail.amdahl.com Southfield, Michigan 810-348-4440 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 09:51:08 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: potato(e)s A friend of mine just got 100 pounds of potatos that were in winter storage, with the suggestion to use them fast before they go bad. He might just take them to Salvation Army kitchen, but they're mine if I can figure out a way to use them. My guess is that there's starch in them there spuds. Anybody have extraction method/direction? (Please note that my facilities are limited--a 5 gallon grain mash is my max.) Anybody have a receipe for a potato beer? Would I be wasting my time? Cheers ron dwelle [dweller at gvsu.edu] Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Feb 1994 08:33:00 -0600 (CST) From: "Michael D. Hansen (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL at igate.abbott.com> Subject: Re: Even Cheaper Carboys Hi All! As mentioned previously, Corning-Revere oulet stores have 5 gallon carboys for $8.99. In the Chicagoland area there are two outlets that I know of. One in St. Charles at the Piano Factory Mall and one in Wisconsin at the outlet mall at I-94 and Highway 50 (this is the second outlet mall north of the IL/WI border, not the first). I purchased a carboy at the one in St. Charles. Of course, I probably spent $2 in gas getting there...... Brew on my friends! Mike (HANSENMD at RANDB.ABBOTT.COM) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 94 10:22:40 From: Christopher Alan Strickland <beach!chris at cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov> Subject: Beercaps I use the garden variety beercaps, $2 a gross. I boil my before using, is this necessary, or even harmful? I haven't seen anything on preparing caps, in Miller, FAQ's, Papazan, etc. I'm just leary of using unboiled caps for fear of bateria contamination. Sheesh, I'll have to have 2 homebrew's to relax on this one. - -- Chris Strickland Internet: beach!chris at cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 10:41:06 -0500 From: "Micah A. Singer" <Micah.A.Singer at williams.edu> Subject: Pumpkin Ale I just brewed a Pumpkin Ale using a recipe that included hops in their leaf form and the pumpkin mush that you can buy in cans. I was told to use real pumpkin but New England in the winter isn't the place to find it. So, now I have it all in the primary. I know I am going to get a whole lot of sediment when I transfer but I am worried that too much will remain in the concoction. I would be really interested in entertaining any suggestions or methods I can use to minimize sediment in this particular case and in general. Thank you in advance. Micah Singer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 10:09:45 EST From: Geoff_Scott at magic-bbs.corp.apple.com Subject: Acid Washing I need some acid washing advice. Background: I wanted to add the yeast from my favourite brewery to my small collection of slants. They brew with only one strain and it has put up well with their frequent acid washing. It is a very top fermenting ale yeast that they top-crop for repitching. I can't seem to get a sample from the brewery so I have resorted to clandestine measures. I took a 1L mason jar with 500mL starter to a local pub where they serve three real ales from this brewery. I surreptitiously poured about half my pint of bitter into the jar of wort. My plan is to ferment it out, chill it a bit to knock any yeast out of suspension, pitch this yeast into another starter and build up the population through successively larger starters. My mason jar and starter wort were sterilised 15 min. under 15 PSI but obviously the beer engine and my pint glass were not. I realise that acid washing won't solve a wild yeast problem but I thought that it might help knock out some bacteria. Since it is real ale they only use isinglass, it is not put through a DE filter and it isn't pasteurised. The bitter had a slight haze. I think it's yeast since it was at proper cellar temperature and none of their bottled products have chill haze. Here are are my questions: 1. What pH range should I aim for? 2. Which acid should I use? 3. Where do I get food grade acid? 4. At what point should I wash it? 5. Any practical tips for procedure? thanks, Geoff Scott gscott at io.org or Geoff_Scott at magic-bbs.corp.apple.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 09:53:30 -0500 (cdt) From: Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ at AC.GRIN.EDU> Subject: spigot installation in plastic bucket With many thanks to those individuals who gave me the right advice a few weeks ago, I report that I have successfully installed a plastic spigot in my old plastic bucket. Since moving to glass carboys a year or more ago, the busket that came with my original "brewing kit" has been relegated to bottling functions. I had seen nifty looking plastic buckets with installed spigots in catalogs, and I might have actually gone and blown the twenty five bucks plus shipping or whatever it was, had I not seen this little spigot advertised for about three and a half bucks in the Home Brewery catalog (no connection, just a satisfied customer). So, armed with this and a 7/8" spade bit for my drill (about $2 at my local True Value) I performed surgery last night. I sat on the bucket to stabilize it and drilled the hole in just seconds. It did take a half an hour or so of wiggling it around in the hole and fussing with the washers and just a little swearing before I was able to obtain a leak-proof fit. But the patient is doing fine and I am looking forward to using my turkey baster as the Creator intended it to be used: on Turkeys! So for any newbies like me (after 30 batches, I still consider myself a newbie!) who might be wondering about something really useful to do with that old plastic bucket, I highly recommend this approach! Before signing off, I would like to second BadAssAstronomers posting in 1359. This is a "forum on beer, homebrewing, and RELATED ISSUES." These "related issues" are part of what keep me on the digest, including cooking vs. chemistry, women in homebrewing, and the latest exploits of Jim Koch. I Do think we all need to be sensitive to the fact that most of us ARE primarily interested in the middle part - HOMEBREWING - but I would suggest that when another "related" subject comes along, we could all just step back and let it run its course, after which hop utilization formulae and RIMS design can return to the fore. What wastes mor bandwidth, these discussions which are plainly invited by the Digest header, or the countless pleas to "stop, you're wasting bandwidth?" I have learned a great deal from the HBD, and it hasn't ALL been about what I do in my basement! A good day to all. Jonathan Knight Grinnell, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 10:52:49 EST From: Mark A. Stevens <stevens at stsci.edu> Subject: brewing books for the rest of us The discussions that Laura Conrad sparked by suggesting that most brewing books are geared too much toward techno-weenies brings up a lot of interesting points, and I agree with her entirely that we need to see more books that are oriented more toward the casual cook than toward the scientist if we are to really see homebrewing enter the mainstream of household activities. I'm heartened to see brewing machines at large department stores and even those brew bags sold at places like Sharper Image because they introduce brewing to a wider market and add legitimacy to the hobby (how often do boneheads ask you "Gee, is that legal?" or "You mean you can really brew beer in your house?") Al Korzonas' comment that there are already beer books on the market that are written well enough to understand by most people (he cites Papazian as an example) is generally right, but these are still BREWING books more than they are COOKBOOKS. As many of our friends on HBD know, Karl Lutzen and myself have been working on editing a book of beer recipes for Storey Communication, which should be available a couple months from now. In this book, we tried to take something close to the cookbook approach, and I'd be interested in knowing if it's viewed as such (once people get a chance to check it out). We've really only got one place where we talk about *HOW* to brew, and we come at it from the angle of formulating a new recipe...mostly using rules of thumb, although we also do provide info on hitting targets more precisely, the emphasis is decidedly on general ballpark guidelines, and I fully expect lots of comments from the anal retentive crowd about how we should really have given a full technical discussion and dispensed with the ballpark figures. Certainly the technical discussions are interesting to those who've been brewing for a long time and have an inclination toward the science, but these tomes aren't going to attract many newcomers to the hobby whereas more accessible cookbook-type presentations might. Bottoms up! - - Mark Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Feb 94 16:04:59 GMT From: GANDE at slims.attmail.com Subject: UBREW Shelf Life Paul sez: Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 14:03:00 -0500 From: paul.merrifield at onlinesys.com (Paul Merrifield) Subject: Shelf Life >Why is it that the beer brewed at U-BREWS have such a short shelf >life of about three months yet if I brew the same extract beer at ...SNIP I work at a UBREW in Toronto. The reason that the beer doesn't have a good shelf life is primarily due to bacterial infection. Let me clarify. Most patrons use bottles that I wouldn't feed my dog out of, but they get the impression that a squirt of Iodophor at the cleaning station will make the bottles sterile. At the end of the evening there's mats of green molds in the sinks at the cleaning stations, and the customers always complain that the beer never lasts. I guess not. This is not to say that bacteria is not being introduced along the way during the brew cycle, it is. But good UBREW operators check all aspects of the operation weekly by innoculating a slant from each machine and sending off to the lab for analysis. Return reports indicate problem areas and are usually cleaned up. Ask the owner next time what the bacterial counts are on the filters and carbonators, if he tells you then you know he's keeping it clean, if he doesn't know then I would be skeptical that he cares. BTW I've brewed all-grain batches at the UBREW, bottled and kept them for many months without spoilage.....Glenn +----------------------------------+-----------------+ | Internet: gande at slims.attmail.com| "640K ought to | | Glenn Anderson | be enough for | | Manager, Telecom. Facilities | anybody." | | Sun Life of Canada |-Bill Gates, 1981| +----------------------------------+-----------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 08:20:31 +0800 From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) Subject: Seat of the pants brewing, iodaphor, hop book reveiw I have a friend here at work who wanted to try to make beer. He said "just tell me exactly what to do". I did and he made good beer. What he did was use my years of experience, forget his ego and followed directions. It is possible to make good beer without the techno stuff, IF someone holds your hand. Now about the gadjets like a hydrometer, say your cookbook brewer has a problem, then IF they use a hydrometer they can give their brew guru some info that might help solve the problem. I recently noticed a blue stain in one of the buckets I use to hold cracked grain. The bucket had just had some iodaphor in it. It occurred to me that iodaphor would probably work very well as a starch indicator. Has anyone tried it? I keep meaning to give it a try when I'm mashing, but always forget. I'm in the process of reviewing Mark Garetz soon to be published hop book. It does indeed exist and I think it will be worth the wait. It is very well written, and is packed with excellent detailed hop information. He does offer a lot of new and probably controvercial info. so fasten your seat belts, and get a new battery for your calculator. Bob Jones bjones at novax.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 11:19:57 EST From: mikesher at acs.bu.edu (Michael Sheridan) Subject: Yeast stickiness/African brews Hi y'all Thanks to COYOTE for sending me the Cat's Meow because I still haven't figured out how to do a FAQ! ;-) OK, on to my question. I've been brewing from extracts for about a year now, and my newfound access to the HBD is paying off with an increasing appreciation of the breadth of my ignorance. I recently made a *boosted* copy of Papazian's Propensity Pilsener: Snowbound Pils (made during one of the many storms of January) 6.5 # M&F light ME 1 # crystal malt grains 2.5 # honey 1 tsp. Irish moss added at 25 min into boil 2.5 oz Saaz (boiling, entire 47 min) .5 oz Tettnanger (boiled last 12 min) .5 oz Saaz (aroma, boiled last 2 min) 1 14 gr. package Red Star lager yeast [3/4 cup corn sugar, for bottling) Procedure: Crystal malt added to 1.5 gal cold water, brought to a boil, grains removed. Extracts and 2.5 oz Saaz added, boiled 35 min. Added Tettnanger, boiled 10 more minutes. Added .5 oz Saaz, boiled 2 minutes. Wort pot chilled in sink and transfered to fermenter with cold water. Carboy topped off to 5 gal. O.G. was 1.042 (may be a bit low, I later discovered that our water is 0.990!) F.G. was 1.010, bottled 34 days after pitching Haven't tried it yet, but here's the question: what makes some yeast stick to the bottom of the bottle? Some of my ales were just rock solid, I could pour off the beer without disturbing the trub (right term?). One IPA was just like this Pils looks, though, so that just picking up a bottle shows the yeast swishing around like a mini-storm in a brewcup. Any ideas/views/exaggerated claims on this one? Is it the brand of yeast or adjuncts (Irish moss? Dextrin malt? Polyclar?)???? A completely unrelated topic: African honey beer I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Kenya (any other RPCVs out there???), and I had several opportunities to drink stuff called miritini. It was a thick mead with a good head of beeswax and bee bits. My friends told me that the brewing procedure is as follows: Get a largish baobab seed pod, dried out with the seeds removed (about the size and shape of a football). Fill it with honeycomb and some water, and stop up the hole with a waxy rag. Bury it for three days under say, 4" of soil, and then light a small fire over the buried pod and let it burn for around 4-6 hours. When completely cool, dig up the pod and check it out. If it's not great, rebury it for a while. Serve with a straw to get under the layer of wax, or just spit it out as you drink. Anybody have any refinements on this one? There's also an Ethiopian mead called tech ("ch" as in "cheese") that's spiced with a vaguely fenugreekish (?) herb. Anyone with expertise, experience, or ideas on African homebrewing, please post! Let's leave out chang'aa (known in Boston as white lightning) and busaa (a corn mash fermented for 3-6 days, get a group of men and 4 foot long straws and suck out the alcohol. It's sort of nasty), but I think it'd be fun to start an African thread in the HBD. I'll look around for my notes on palm wine. Asenteni wote kwa kunijibu na habari za pombe za kiafrika, Mike Sheridan (PC-Kenya 1988-1990) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 11:40:44 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Brewing; the Art of Cooking vs. Science I tend to be a number-oriented guy, but I also cook mostly seat-of-the-pants. However, I'm still developing my intuition for making beer, and having the numbers to look at helps me determine what effect various changes in recipe or procedure has had. One point that hasn't come up yet: having some numbers can really help in diagnosing potential problems. I've seen so many people asking (in this digest) questions like "my beer stopped fermenting after only 3 days, what should I do?" If they had an original gravity reading and a gravity reading from the "stopped" fermentation, then it's a lot easier to say "Oh, yeah, it just went fast, and now it's done," or "Yup, you've got a stuck fermentation," than without the readings. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 10:02:48 -0700 (MST) From: "C. John Mare" <MARE at vetsci.agpharm.arizona.edu> Subject: Seattle Sally Fellow homebrewer's and beer aficionados, especially those in the Seattle area, I need your help. I will be visiting Seattle for 3 days at the end of next week (March 17, 18, & 19) and I would appreciate advice on which brewery tours are worthwhile (preferably small breweries), and which pubs and/or restaurants carry a good selection of local brews while also serving acceptable food. Your input will be much appreciated. Also, is there a meeting of a local homebrew club which might be open for a visit during this time. I'm curious about the format of meetings of other clubs. Thank you in anticipation. John Mare Old Pueblo Homebrewers, Tucson, Arizona. PS: Please e-mail me directly to avoid cluttering our HBD. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 11:47:17 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: British Malt in German Beer How about trying a decoction mash? It's not that hard: mash-in to your cooler with about 1-1.5 qt/lb water to the protein rest temperature. Let it sit for 10-20 minutes. Remove about 40% (or a bit more for security) of the volume to a pot, getting mostly grains and just enough liquid to not quite cover it. (Try to leave most of the liquid in the cooler.) Heat the decoction on the stove to 150F and hold it there for about 20 minutes for sugar conversion, until it clarifies (you'll see the difference -- it's fun to watch), then heat to boiling and boil for 20 minutes. Slowly add the decoction back to the main mash, with stirring. This should bring the mash temperature up to your saccarification temperature (if you've still got some of the decoction left, just cool it to sacc temp and add it back, if you didn't hit sacc temp, add a bit of boiling water). Let it rest for an hour, then remove about 1/3 of the volume, mostly liquid this time (I drain some from the spigot, getting only liquid), and bring it to a boil. Add back with stirring to raise to mash-out, let the grain bed settle for 10 minutes, and sparge. You should get a maltier flavor (very appropriate for a Bock) and slightly higher extraction than with an infusion mash, and you can use the German malt. It will take about an hour and a half longer than an infusion mash, though. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 9:58:53 MST From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Cooking vs Science, yeast query > How many world-class chefs out there are chemists? Um, more than you might think. Chefs at most of the top schools these days are taught as much chemistry as a brewer might learn at Seibel. If you're going to be a top-notch chef or brewer, it pays to learn *why* the ingredients behave the way they do. If such information appeals to you, read _On Food and Cooking_ by Harold McGee. It's a fascinating look at the science of food, and very readable. > Cider making yeasts? Closer to the subject of brewing, I'm looking for opinions on yeasts for cider making. I have an excellent batch of cider that used the WYeast Pasteur champagne, but it came out drier than I wanted. Anyone have a recommendation for a less-attenuative, low-ester-producing yeast? What about the WYeast Montrachet wine yeast? Reply via email, please, and I'll summarize. - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at hpfcla.fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium." - T.S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 13:00:30 GMT From: Andrew Ireland <andy at memex.co.uk> Subject: U.K. Brewing/Fermenting First off, Thanks to everyone who mailed me and told me about the p-Lambic digest, since I'm only beginning to brew I'll think about joining this later. Now, am I the only person on the HBD to be based in the UK??? I'm just getting into Beer/Winemaking, and enjoy the process and results (hic). My first Gallon of Red wine died a horrible and nasty death, but I have just bottled a "Ten Day Red" wine kit from Boots. Its not bad, and has reasonable (for the price) taste. Has anyone out there on the HBD fermented any other wines from Boots? I have a "Chardonnay" style wine fermenting in a Gallon jar right now, which should be ready in time for the Summer. Since the availabilty of grapes is not exactly brilliant (living in Scotland, the weather being bad for vines), all the wine kits are made from concentrated Grape Juice, sugar, and sachets of yeast. Now I'm thinking of brewing, Boots (a chain of Chemists/Drug Stores) sell wine and Brew kits, and am thinking about buying their "Starter Lager Kit", which for the price "includes everything you need to brew & bottle 5 gallons of Lager", a 5 gallon Plastic Bin, plastic bottles, Siphon tubes, Malt extract, "brewer's yeast", etc... Has anyone made this, or can anyone tell me of any better homebrew shops in the Glasgow area? A forlorn hope maybe, but worth a shot. Cheers! Andy. - --- Andrew Ireland <entirely my own opinions> Memex Information Systems Ltd., East Kilbride, G75 0YN, Scotland, UK. andy at memex.co.uk Tel: (03552) 33804 Fax: (03552) 39676 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 09:30:06 pst From: wyatt at Latitude.COM Subject: Scotch and Scottish Ales I have taken an interest in Scotch and Scottish Ales and would like to hear from anyone else who has similar interests especially if they have any experience. I am especially interested in fermentation temps, yeast strains, sparging techniques, and recipes. I have Noonan's new book but am looking for more specific info. Also has anyone tried Wyeast's new Scottish Ale Yeast(#1728). I can be reached at Wyatt at latitude.com Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 11:45:26 -0600 (CST) From: BIHM at LUB002.LAMAR.EDU (CLINT BIHM) Subject: New Homebrew club Hello out there, A friend of mine here in Beaumont Texas is starting a homebrew club. he asked if I would list it on homebrew in case anyone is interested. Here it goes, if you are interested in joining, giving advice,anything, email bihm at lub002.lamar.edu or Genuardi at lub002.lamar.edu or call Greg Hight at (409)769-1655, he's the one who is starting the club up, I've only brewed 6 batches (But I'm having FUN doing it), so if you have any questions, i'll be forwarding them to him. ttyl8r Clint Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Feb 1994 09:40:48 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: How to Get Started/ SN Porter Hello Group, Eric Wickham at CMU wrote asking how to get started,ie what temps are used. Eric, I tried mailing you my How to Brew Your First Beer, Rev C., but your address bounces. Please email me at palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com with your proper email acct so I can send it to you. At this time, I have not had any luck finding out how to get it onto Homebrew at Sierra so people can FTP it. (Help?) Any other beginning brewers out there can also email me for it. I have mailed out some 300 copies to Europe, North America, and Australia. It is intended to be freely distributed, but all rights reserved and all that. I am happy to be able to contribute something to this great hobby. If you have previously requested it and not heard from me or would like an updated version, just drop me a note. By the way, please use something innocuous like *Document* as the subject. I don't want my boss to realize that I spend all of my time discussing BEER with people. :*) *** Here is my all-grain recipe for Sierra Nevada Porter. I got the ingredients and amounts straight from the brewer during a tour there. Dividing by 500 gave me the following recipe. For 6 gallons: 9.8 lbs of Pale 2row 0.4 lbs of Dextrin Malt (American Carapils) 0.4 lbs of Crystal 60 0.4 lbs of Chocolate Malt 0.2 lbs of Black Patent about 45 IBU of Perle and Liberty Hops (60,30,15 minutes) Wyeast American Ale 80 minute mash at 153F. OG was 1.058, FG was 1.012 I brewed this, and after 3 wks in the bottle is it quite good. I currently have a Panel of Expert reviewing it, and when he tries it, we'll know more on how to tweek the recipe. Right now, I would say be careful of the Black Patent, and cut back on the Dextrin Malt to maybe a quarter pound. I think it has a bit too much of a sweet aftertaste. The Front-taste is fine, as is the Hop balance, though next time I want to pull back a couple of tablespoons of the Black Patent for my taste. For you extract brewers, I would say to use 6-7 lbs of Pale Extract and use all of the specialty grains. *Would one of you veterans comment on my mash time? How would mashing for half that time affect the flavor profile? *** Speaking of Mashing (FAQ), I am still putting the Questions together, and sometime soon I will post that list and solicit responses from y'all. John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 12:57:21 -0500 From: djt2 at po.cwru.edu Subject: Stuck Barley wine... This weekend saw two batches emerge from the cellar. The first was an all grain Barley wine for which I ended up with 2.5 gallons of 1.110 o.g. wort. It was mildly hopped with only 1/2 oz of Bullion. The second was an all grain Porter that began with the late sparges from the Barley wine (waste not!) and yielded 7 gallons of 1.060 o.g., this time more highly hopped. Both batches were cooled and aerated identically. I pitched each batch with identical starters, 16 oz of "Dublin stout" yeast purportedly from Guinness, grown in 2% sucrose, 1% DME for 4 days. Both starters looked identical. The morning after pitching, the Porter is bubbling away happily, and the barley wine was sitting there stock still. It is in a half full 5 gallon carboy, but there seems to be _no_ activity now 36 hours after pitching. Is this a problem of the yeast being inhibited by the high o.g.? This is 11% sugar, well under what grape juice would be, but more than I have used in any of my past brews. This strain is not terribly attenuative in my past experience, but I don't see what attenuation has to do with tolerance of high o.g.'s Do you folks have experience with difficulty in high o.g. worts? I know I might have chosen a different yeast for *finishing* reasons, but is there an obvious preference for barley wines because of sugar tolerance?? TIA, Dennis Templeton. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 94 12:15 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: alcohol sanitation/specialty malts/ Mait writes: >first- someone was talking about alcohol spray for sterilizing. Why do you Those of you considering using an alcohol spray for *sanitizing* (not sterilizing -- you need an autoclave or pressure cooker to even get close), you must consider the contact time. The contact time for sanitizing with 50% ethanol is at least 15 minutes (sorry, don't have my books here). >Second-I have been reading about brewing with specialty malts. Papazian says >to mix with cold water and bring to a boil, but other people say to steep for >various amounts of time at about 150 degrees. What's the difference here? >If you were mashing, you would boil the malt. Why the difference with malt >extract brewing? One very important point that is often overlooked. Charlie's method of removing the grain after the water/grain comes to a boil only works if you do a partial boil and if you don't have high carbonate water. If you put 1# of crystal malt in 1 gallon of average alkalinity water, your pH will be in the low 5's (in Chicago water, it's actually closer to 4.8). Boiling this a short while won't extract a lot of tannins. However, if you switch to doing full boils, then you're putting 1# of crystal in 6 gallons of water and your pH might be somewhere in the 7's or even 8's (in Chicago water, it was 7.4, if I recall correctly)! You don't even have to reach boiling temperatures to get a significant tannin extraction. Secondly, don't confuse steeping of crystal, chocolate, roast barley or black patent malts with mashing. Mashing is where you raise base or color malts (such as pale ale, pilsner, munich, biscuit, aromatic, etc.) to 150F and wait for the enzymes to convert the starches to sugars. Then you separate the liquid from the husks and go to the boil. Crystal malts are already mashed (in the husk, so to speak). When you say "If you were mashing, you would boil the malt." I assume you are referring to decoction mashing, which is considerably more complicated than infusion mashing or stovetop mashing, where you raise the entire mash to the desired temperature all at once. **** Eric writes: >I'm considering purchasing a brewing kit to brew beer. At what temperarures >must it be kept at? Does it need to be heated or refridgeratered? Ales are generally fermented between 60 and 75F and lagers between 45 and 55F. Each yeast has it's own range of preferred temperatures, but for starters, I would suggest that you use one of the newer, cleaner dry yeasts (Nottingham, Windsor, Red Star, Coopers) and ferment between 65 and 70F. Once you get more comfortable with the mechanics of brewing, you can read up on liquid yeasts and their temperature preferences and expand your horizons. Till then, stick with ales and relax. **** Rick writes: >A brew friend of mine has a problem. He's 5 ale-batches along and >every one is becoming over-carbonated at about the 2-month-in-bottle stage. <snip> >All are extract ales with some partial mashes (a lb or 2 extra grain). <snip> >Oh, this might matter - he does concentrated wort boils and >adds about 3 gal cold water to make 6 gal. I'm willing to bet he's got bacterial or wild yeast infections. A couple of possible sources (see above): grain dust and the cold water. Have him try crushing the grain outdoors and boil and chill the 3 gallons he uses to add to the concentrated wort. Besides that, theres all the standard sources for infections: scratched fermenters, grungy hoses, sucking on the siphon hose to start, etc. Watch him do his process and see where he could be going wrong (i.e. putting a sanitized racking cane down on an unsanitized countertop). > 1) If I've forgotten to take a final SG reading at bottling time, > can I get a valid one from a 'finished' bottle - you know - > later, when I pour one to enjoy? You can, but you have to de-gas it -- the carbonation will stick to the hydrometer and throw off the measurement. > 2) When, in the brewing process, would one add fruit extract > to, say, a stout? If the fruit has sugar, add it after the primary fermentation is basically over (so the CO2 from the primary ferment does not scrub out more of the fruit aromatics). If the extract has no sugar in it, then you can add it at bottling time, either in the bottling vessel or in each bottle (a pipette is a handy tool here). > 3) And, when (as above) would one add malto-dextrin (not grain) to, > say, a stout? 100% malto-dextrin should be unfermentable, but there is a chance that there are still some fermentables in there. To be on the safe side, I'd add it in the boil -- don't let your friend with the infection problem use M-D till he gets a handle on his infection -- he'll be making glass grenades! Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 10:13:01 -0800 From: Richard Buckberg <buck at well.sf.ca.us> Subject: Archives What does one need to use for a login and password to get access to the archives at ftp sierra.stanford.edu ?? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 11:44:02 -600 (CST) From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu Subject: low-tech homebrewing: lagering and yeast banks A running line of opinion on the HBD seems to be the division between high-tech and the low tech brewers. WE brew at the level that we brew at and, as near as I can tell, we all produce beers that are infinitely more interesting than the mass market varieties. I've been an active brewer for over five years through nearly 90 batches from meads to ales to lagers. In the intervening time I advanced from extract to all-grain. None-the-less my techniques are simple but effective. I've picked up little suggestions through the Q and A section of Zymurgy and also developed some stuff through basic ingenuity. Here are a couple Ideas that have produced excellent results and involve little work or laboratory expertise. Mini-lagering tanks: Most articles that discuss effective lagering point out that the brew must be under some sort of pressure. Keg owners can adjust to this requirement no problem, while the rest of us just scratch our heads. I read in an obsucre "ask the Professor" column that those that 'don't have it' can simply lager the beer in their mini-lagering tanks---the bottles! I set my old basement frigidaire to about 30 degreesF (I hang an old thermometer from one of the shelves) and set the cases in. After about two weeks, my lagers have crisped up and are nearly as clean as Becks or Berghoff. The beer gets drunk up fast enough to make way for new batches down the line. The same effect cannot be had if the temps are much higher. 30-32F is about perfect. "Heinz" yeast bank: The 1989 Zymurgy Special Issue--Yeast, contained an article by Pierre Rajotte about saving yeast dregs. This issue and the articles by Rajotte are essential to any homebrewer who has an interest in the lively yeast beasts in their beers. This is how I do it: I use 22 ounce glass heinz catsup jars to store my dregs. Soak in a dilute bleach solution. Rinse with boiling water; pour boiling water through a small funnel and this will sterilize the funnel. Do all this just prior to racking to the secondary. Sterilize a stopper and airlock--a 5.5 stopper fits perfect. After siphoning swirl the dregs with the little bit of beer left over until the cake is loose from the bottom. Swab the carboy opening or the edge of your plastic bucket with a little vodka and pour the dregs into the catsup bottle. Leave a little air space in case the yeast is still active. Stopper up and store in the kitchen fridge. When I repitch I swab the jar opening with vodka or aquavit or what ever. The yeast builds up from batch to batch; after 3 or 4 I've got a good 16 ounces of yeast to pitch. Rajotte says the yeast will keep for 2-4 weeks. I can concur and add that I pitched a belgian yeast from a wyeast culture almost 8 weeks after saving with superior results. If in doubt make a quart sterile wort starter, pitch in the saved dregs, and check for life. Intuition is big part of this process. I've saved both lager and ale cultures through many batches--about six is the average; I saved a belgian culture through nearly a dozen ales (tripples, abbeys,white beers, oud bruins, and specials)over the course of a whole year. I can't stress good sanitation enough. Once you get the hang of it.it's like riding a bicycle. And it is economical, too. Divide the # of pitches by the price of a culture (about $4.00) and you have world class brew for the price of dry yeast! Keep a journal of your experience or ask other brewers for their experience. I've done this with many strains and can pass along the staying power of any of them on request. Someday I'm going to invest in petrie dishes, agar, and streaking tools, but for now I'm sticking with my dregs. It's how many breweries do it and it hasn't failed me yet! Mark Evans |-|-|-|-| mashing on the upper Mississippi|-|-|-|-| Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1361, 03/01/94