HOMEBREW Digest #1367 Tue 08 March 1994

Digest #1366 Digest #1368

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Is it really what they say it is? (DAVE SWITZER)
  Celis Grand Cru clone (Mark A Fryling)
  Whole Hop Pellets (WLK.Wbst311)
  seat of the pants test (btalk)
  Drilling holes in glass (sarge)
  sparging (Greg Brauckmann)
  Follow up to hopping Scotch Ales (Keith MacNeal  07-Mar-1994 0929)
  Rejected by Star9gate - und ("STAR9GATE")
  Re: The Yankee Brew News (Automagical Mail Responder)
  Re: Hop aroma and boiling times (Jim Busch)
  Woodruff/weissbier yeast/carboys (RONALD DWELLE)
  SPARGE WATER (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  More beginner questions (bitterness) (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Re: Northwestern Extract (MARK CASTLEMAN)
  Heated mash? (Chuck Wettergreen)
  brewing non-alcohol beers (Louis XIV)
  NOT Pilsener Urquell! (Michael Sheridan)
  3056 ("Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616")
  Connecticut Brewers? (Brian=Wilson)
  Boiling Caps (Keith A. MacNeal HLO1-1/T09 DTN 225-6171  07-Mar-1994 1340)
  Park slope brewpub (david.jacobson)
  growing hops (Chris Lovelace)
  Re: Soda keg taste? (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Plastic bottles - The Experiment (Derek Sheehan)
  Partial Mash -> Full Mash (Christopher Alan Strickland)
  more on sucking bleach into wort (Peter Maxwell)
  re: cold hopping & grassy flavors (Chris Kagy)
  Reply to David Huffman (exe01679)
  Homegrown Hop data point (Mike Dix)
  Bad Taste (Mike Slowik)

Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 06 Mar 1994 17:15:35 -0500 (EST) From: DAVE SWITZER <SWIT1876 at splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu> Subject: Is it really what they say it is? My name is Dave Switzer and I attend the State University of New York at Plattsburgh. Since I live so close to the Canadian border I hear a lot about the Canadian beers on the Market. I have recently heard of a current beer that is rich and also containing 7.3 percent alcohol. It's called Molson XXX. I want to know, does the taste have a logger beer essence or is it a watered down tasting beer such as Coors. I would like to know in order to decide whether to purchase it or not. If anyone can help me out I would greatly appreciate it. Please E-Mail me soon because I have a planned trip to Canada coming up and I would like to know. Thanks alot! Dave Switzer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 8:35:16 EST From: Mark A Fryling <mfryling at magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Subject: Celis Grand Cru clone Hi all, I am interested in brewing something moderately close to Celis Grand Cru (incredible stuff!). Here is the recipe as I have it so far in my mind: 4lbs Klages 2 row Pale malt 1lb Dextrine malt Infusion mash, 155 F, 1hr 6lbs NWestern Weizen LME 1lb Laaglander extra pale DME Add to kettle after mash runnings have been boiled down to a reasonable vol. 25-30 IBU blend of Hallertau, Styrian Gold., and Tettnang Mostly for 60min boil, maybe 5 IBU in last 15 min 0.5oz dried orange peel 0.5oz dried coriander both added at end of boil Dilute to 5 gal of appx. 1.075 wort. Pitch large starter of Hoegaarden Wit yeast, and ferment in my 60F basement Comments? Suggestions? I have one specific question about whether one should mash dextrine malt or treat it like a specialty grain and steep it in the 170 F sparge water? Does this sound like about the right hopping rate? ______________________________________________________________________ Just thought I'd throw in an observation about the use of hop pellets and keeping them out of the fermenter. I never use hop pellets alone; I always use some leaf hops (either as loose cones or as plugs) with the pellets. The advantage of this IMHO is that when I strain my chilled wort through my collander into my fermenting bucket, the leaf hops form a filter bed (not unlike a lauter tun) in which the tiny particles from the pellets get caught. Using this method, I have never observed excessive particulates in my fermenter. Oh BTW, you can send the comments about the Grand Cru recipe directly unless they are of general interest. I'll post the final version if the beer turns out well. TIA Later Mark Fryling <mfryling at magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> "I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy" source unknown Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 05:48:02 PST From: WLK.Wbst311 at xerox.com Subject: Whole Hop Pellets Greetings: In the past I have used 1 oz. packets of dried hop pellets; but have been annoyed at the amount of hop sludge that they create on the fermenters bottom. Recently I came across whole hop pellets, packaged as two, five half oz. segments, akin to a tootsie roll. Are these simply hop cones/flowers that have been compressed, or are they ground up? If not, do I use a mesh hop bag? They are stored frozen, so another question is whether or not they should be defrosted, or are they simply plunked into the boiling wort straight from the freezer? Any advice or comments are appreciated! Thanks Bill K. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Mar 94 08:57:02 EST From: btalk at aol.com Subject: seat of the pants test I have my own version of this historical test- the Sole of the Shoe test. When my sneakers start sticking to my kitchen floor, it is time to lay off the homebrews, get out the mop and clean up the spolled wort ;) Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton ,NY Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 08:44:44 EST From: sarge at tecnet1.jcte.jcs.mil Subject: Drilling holes in glass YES, you can drill a hole in glass. I have drilled several holes in wine bottles in the past when turning them into lamps. Well, not quite drilling. You use a grinder made for the purpose. It looks like the eraser end of a pencil with a rounded end, about 1/2 inch in diameter. Just use it like a drill and lubricate with plenty of water. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 09:06:36 EST From: gjb at endeavour.larc.nasa.gov (Greg Brauckmann) Subject: sparging Would anyone like to comment on the consequences of letting your sparge water temperature drop too low. We use a cooler with a false bottom, but sometimes we run out of water to keep it topped off when sparging. While heating new water the temp sometimes drops to 150 F, or lower. thanks, gb Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 09:33:11 EST From: Keith MacNeal 07-Mar-1994 0929 <macneal at pate.enet.dec.com> Subject: Follow up to hopping Scotch Ales Thanks for all the responses to my question on hopping Scotch Ale. It appears that the BU given by Noonan is IBU. After a couple of questions like "Are you sure he didn't give oz. of hops?", I looked again. Sure enough, further on in the recipe he does give hop quantities in HBU. For the case of the 140 Shilling Edinburgh Ale with a BU of 60 and utilization of 20%, the HBU is given as 20. I think it's time to put an order in for Wyeast 1728 and start making up a gallon of 1080 wort. Keith MacNeal Digital Equipment Corp. Hudson, MA Return to table of contents
Date: 5 Mar 1994 04:51:18 -0500 From: "STAR9GATE" <STAR9GATE at star9gate.mitre.org> Subject: Rejected by Star9gate - und Mail*Link(r) SMTP Homebrew Digest #1365 (March 05, !!!! Original Message >= 24K; See following enclosure. Preview follows !!!! Received: by star9gate.mitre.org with SMTP;5 Mar 1994 04:45:38 -0500 Received: from hpfcla.fc.hp.com by mbunix.mitre.org (8.6.4/4.7) id DAA13724; Sat, 5 Mar 1994 03:55:11 -0500 Received: from hpfcrdg.fc.hp.com by hpfcla.fc.hp.com with SMTP ( 3.20) id AA00676; Sat, 5 Mar 94 01:48:13 -0700 Received: by hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (16.6/15.5+IOS 3.22) id AA00671; Sat, 5 Mar 94 01:00:49 -0700 Date: Sat, 5 Mar 94 01:00:49 -0700 Message-Id: <9403050800.AA00671 at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com> To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com From: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Request Address Only - No Articles) Reply-To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Posting Address Only - No Requests) Errors-To: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Precedence: bulk Subject: Homebrew Digest #1365 (March 05, 1994) HOMEBREW Digest #1365 Sat 05 March 1994 FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor Contents: Sorry about the double posting... (Steven Tollefsrud) The Yankee Brew News (Tom Luteran) air-tight primary fermenter (F. G. Patterson Jr.) Potato beer (STROUD) Boiling caps (Jim Grady) Fullers ESB clone (Matthew Howell) Holes in Glass ("Karl F. Lutzen" ) mail order Wyeast (Matthew Howell) freezing cracked malt (RONALD DWELLE) Hot water hoses/tubing (Rick Gordon) Re: Contaminate, pasteurize, potatos, and Gott (Dion Hollenbeck) beating a dead horse with a blowoff tube ("Steven W. Smith") Sanitizing... (Brian Klimowski) Blow-Off Tubes ("Renee Peloquin Mattie") northwestern extract (TODD CARLSON) BAA/RPS (Brian Bliss) Rejected by star9gate - und ("STAR9GATE") Re: creme soda / BrewTek (Automagical Mail Responder) Drilling holes in Glass (CLINT BIHM) Wyeast 3056 Works too! (I think....) (Jack Skeels) carboys, once and for all (dan_fox) O2 Absorbing Bottle Caps (Mark Garetz) The Brewer's Digest (GNT_TOX_) Holes in Glass (Steve Scampini) SPARGE WATER (greg.demkowicz) waterpipes (korz) Re: Opening a brewery & Ulicks Wit (Jim Busch) Homebrewing 101...Coopers.. ("Patricia Moline") Soda keg taste? (Timothy Sixberry) Red Nectar Info Request (southard) Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 4 Mar 94 10:56:57 +0100 From: vlsisj!fleurie!steve_t at uucp-gw-2.pa.dec.com (Steven Tollefsrud) Subject: Sorry about the double posting... My apologies to the entire homebrew digest community for the double posting of "Sucking bleach into your brew". I canceled the first incorrect version, but my cancel was rejected for having been sent from a different person than who posted the original article ??!! Steve Tollefsrud - ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Mar 94 8:18:31 EST From: Tom Luteran <toml at hpwargh.wal.hp.com> Subject: The Yankee Brew News Hi! Does anyone have info on or know how to get in touch with The Yankee Brew News? Thanks! Tom - -- +----------------------------------------------------+ | Thomas Luteran | INTERNET address: | | Hewlett-Packard Company | toml at wal.hp.com | | Medical Products Group | HP TELNET: 1-659-4770 | | 3000 Minuteman Road | VOICE: (508) 659-4770 | | Andover, MA 01810 | FAX: Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 07:56:57 -0700 From: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Automagical Mail Responder) Subject: Re: The Yankee Brew News (This message has been generated by a program, and is for your information only. No further action is necessary.) Your article has been received for publication in the Homebrew Digest. There are currently 8 article(s) ahead of yours in the queue that will be published first. If you would like to cancel your article for some reason, you may do so any time before it is published, by sending a message to homebrew-request whose body (not subject) contains the line: cancel article 03070756.5252 Remember, send the cancel request to homebrew-request, NOT homebrew! Thanks for your submission and your support of the Digest! Rob (program author) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 10:15:44 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Re: Hop aroma and boiling times greg wrtiers, quoting Rick, > The hop AROMA boils away after about 15-20 minutes, not the "alpha > (acids)". The purpose of the 60 minute boil is to isomerize the alpha > acids present in the hops. This isomerization is what makes the > bitterness. This bitterness cannot be boiled away. Pre-hopped malt > extracts do not need to be boiled for 60 minutes, as the alpha acids > have already been isomerized. (Courtesy of Rick Meyers, Thank-You) The key words here are "hop AROMA boils away *after* about 15-20 minutes" Rememeber that German Pilsners are quite hoppy in the nose, and this is achieved by a hop addition at 15 minutes to cast out. Also, the method of trub removal/wort chilling will influence the hop aroma/bitterness equation. Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Mar 94 11:18:50 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: Woodruff/weissbier yeast/carboys Rick Dante asked about Woodruff. I suspect you're referring to Sweet Woodruff which is a ground-cover/herb that is not too unusual. My wife and I grow it throughout our backyard (mostly to eliminate grass which requires cutting). It is traditionally used as a flavoring in German "May Wine," and when it blooms in the spring, we always drop some sprigs in our glasses of red wine. As an herb, it has a taste similar to Tarragon (I've heard that it is sometimes sold commercially as Tarragon), and we always dry a little bit for use over winter (nice in chicken dishes). I never heard of it for beer, but now that you mention it....why not. Maybe make a "tea" to add to the wort? Incidentally, we never could get it growing from seeds--finally had to buy plants, and it took it several years to get solidly established. I'm planning to divide some in a couple weeks, so I can plant it around the bases of my new hop plants. Different matter--I bought some import Pschorr (sp?), that was called "Pschorr-Sumthing Weissbier with yeast." It was expensive, like $2 for 16 oz., but I figured I'd recover the yeast and get a free starter. The beer was great and I really liked the clove taste, but I couldn't get yeast to grow--I assume it was dead, because I did all the normal precautions. Q--I've read that the Germans demand the yeast with their Weissbier. Is the yeast normally killed somehow? Or did my purchase just have a long ride from Germany to Michigan? I would like to try this again, because I had zero luck with Wyeast 3056. Shift gears again--a place called Little Ole Winemaking Shop (honest), 4 S 245 Wiltshire Ln, Sugar Grove, IL 60554, 708-557-2523, sells 5-gallon carboys for $8 but will not ship them (don't know why). It's just west of Chicago, so next time you're driving a pickup that way... (no connection, blah blah...). Cheers, Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 11:19:11 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: SPARGE WATER greg.demkowicz at circellar.com writes: > it seems the conventional wisdom regarding sparge water > quantity is; .5 gal per 1 Lb grain. For a five gallon batch > and grain bills of 7 lbs or so, this is fine, but what > about 11 lb grain bills? When you're making high-gravity beers, you've either got to put up with lower than optimal extraction rates or with large, long boils. I usually start my high gravity mashes with about 1 quart/lb, giving me some leeway to raise the temperature by adding hot/boiling water (I mash in a drink cooler). In my experience, and with my setup, if I take just first runnings from this, I'll get about .6-.7qt/lb of wort at about 1.090. > While I'm on the topic of sparging, the common chemical for > reducing the pH of hard water is Gypsum. My boiled Tap water > requires 1.5 Tbls of Gypsum to bring the pH down to 5.5 (when > cooled). Aha, a common misconception. You don't want to measure the pH of the strike water, but the pH of the mash itself. The calcium in the gypsum combines with phytins in the malt to liberate phytic acid that drops the mash pH into the appropriate range. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 11:49:31 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: More beginner questions (bitterness) Hop bitterness extraction is complicated and depends on several factors, some of which have to do with the hops, and some of which don't. There are factors that affect the actual iso-alpha acid content (IBUs) in the finished beer, including: 1. Hop AA content. This is related pretty linearly to bitterness, all else being equal. 2. Form of hops (whole versus pellets). Pellets extract better. 3. Length of boil. Longer boil (up to about an hour) extracts more bitterness. 4. Specific gravity of wort. If the SG is over about 1.050, the amount of bitterness extracted from the hops goes down (Mark Garetz will debate this point, but it corresponds to my experience, and that of others). These first four factors are the ones used in the typical formula (such as is found in Papazian's book). But there are more, including: 5. Vigour of boil. A wimpy "simmering" boil won't extract as much bitterness as a strong "rolling" boil. 6. Yeast effects -- some amount of the bittering compounds will attach to and settle out with the yeast. A quick-settling yeast will remove less than a slow-settling yeast. And then there are factors that affect the perceived bitterness, even in beers that have equal levels of iso-alpha acids (the primary hop bittering compound). These include: 7. Final gravity (sweetness and body) of the beer. A light-bodied, dry beer will let the bitterness through much more so than a heavy, sweet one. 8. Water ionic composition. In particular, high sulfate levels will accentuate hop bitterness, sometimes unpleasantly. 9. Carbonation level. All the flavors of a "spritzier" beer will come through more, including the bitterness. 10. Use of bitter, dark grains will contribute a non-hop bitterness. 11. Color -- a dark colored beer will typically be perceived as more bitter than a light colored beer. 12. Hop variety. There are other compounds that can be extracted from hops that are bitter -- in particular, some of the beta acids or their oxidation compounds. And the balance of alpha acids (and therefore iso-alpha acids) differs between hop varieties, and *may* affect the perceived bitter flavor. And I'm sure there are others. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 09:46:44 -0700 (MST) From: MARK CASTLEMAN <mwcastle at ouray.Denver.Colorado.EDU> Subject: Re: Northwestern Extract I have been using Northwestern Extracts almost exclusivly for the past 3 years. NW is indeed made by Briess and can be found for as low as $6 for a 3.3lb bag/box. I have used all four extracts (gold,amber,dark & weiss) and gotten good results from all of them. I know that a NW/Briess dry malt also exists, but i have never used it. Mark W Castleman Big Dog Brewing Cooperative - West My opinions are for this branch of the co-op only. CU-Denver doesn't know I have opinions, And even if it did, it wouldn't care one whit. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 08:31:00 -0600 From: chuck.wettergreen at aquila.com (Chuck Wettergreen) Subject: Heated mash? All-grainers, Does the process of mashing produce heat? I've been using my new Gott cooler for mashing and sparging for about the last five batches. I've had no problems coming up with the right strike water temperature to arrive at the pre-determined conversion temperature. By this I mean, after mashing in, vigorous stirring of the mash for five minutes, and then a five minute rest to let the temperature stabilize, my mash temperature is at or within one degree of what I wanted. Later, however, maybe a half an hour later, the temperature has climbed anywhere from three to five degrees. I preheat the cooler with hot tap water prior to mashing in. Could it be that the water I'm using to preheat is too hot, or is the mashing process producing extra heat? TIA, Chuck * RM 1.3 00946 * Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 11:02 CDT From: Louis XIV <KROEGER at polisci.wisc.edu> Subject: brewing non-alcohol beers Greetings fellow homebrewers -- Has anyone out there in HBD land successfully brewed a non-alcohol beer? I've got a couple of good friends who are beer lovers but, alas, can no longer drink alcohol. I'd love to make them some tasty n.a. brews but have never tried it. I'm looking for any suggestions that anybody has. I suspect that the alcohol can be cooked off by bringing the already fermented brew to just below boiling for a while, and then proceeding with bottling as one normally would. I seem to remember seeing some comment about that on the HBD when I first subscribed. My questions are: Most importantly, would that work? Would it kill off the yeast and prevent carbonation from working? Would it alter the taste? Are there particularly good or bad types of beers to try this with? And, is there another technique that anyone has tried? I'm about to start a new batch and would like to try this with at least part of it. Thanks in advance for the access to everyone's collective brewing wisdom. If anyone would like to reply to me directly, you can send me email at either kroeger at wiscps.bitnet or kroeger at polisci.wisc.edu. Happy brewing! + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + | brian kroeger %% "Whatever universe a professor believes | | %% in must at any rate be a universe that | | kroeger at wiscps.bitnet %% lends itself to lengthy discourse" | | kroeger at polisci.wisc.edu %% - William James | + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 12:20:19 EST From: mikesher at acs.bu.edu (Michael Sheridan) Subject: NOT Pilsener Urquell! Hi brewers! Last week I posted a question about how and why yeast sticks to the bottom of the bottle (still waiting for theories, explanations, etc....) because I was worried about a pils with cloudy, swishy yeast. I got a few useful responses about how the amount of honey that we'd used could affect the unaged taste and possibly create 2 cases of capped glass grenades. Well, we (Kristina and I, a co-brewing couple) tasted the stuff over the weekend, and it's plain awful. Here's the recipe we followed, straight from Papazian (p. 190, Propensity Pilsener Lager): 5 # plain light DME (we used 6.5 # M&F plain light extract, wet) 1 # crystal malt 2.5 # honey 2.5 oz. Saaz (boiling, 45 min.) .5 oz. Tettnanger (flavor, 10 min.) .5 oz Saaz (aroma, 1 min.) 1 tsp Irish moss 1 pkg dry lager yeast (we used Red Star) primed with .75 cup corn sugar O.G. 1.052, fermented at around 40 deg. for 4 weeks F.G. 1.020, fermentation complete?, no bubbles for 6 days Charlie said that this would be something like Pilsener Urquell. No way. It's thick, reddish-brown, and SWEET. The honey comes through FAR too strong and cloying. As for carbonation, this stuff is already more bubbly and heady than any of the ales we've done. This stuff is so yucky that we're considering drastic action. We'll leave a six-pack to either explode or mellow into drinkability, and uncap the rest and rebottle. All I can think to do is to add a weakly hopped gallon of water (making the total around 5.5 gal), dropping the S.G. 10 points, and hopefully shifting the reddish color closer to the golden area of the spectrum. Any other ideas? Repitching some yeast? Tossing in yeast nutrients? Chucking the whole damn thing? Was our basic mistake in the recipe itself, i.e., too many fermentables? Or were our cheapo dry yeasties the real culprits??? Speak, o fonts of constructive criticism Mike Sheridan + Kristina Simmons Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 12:35:27 EST From: "Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: 3056 I too have had acceptable results with Wyeast 3056 on both extract and all grain wheat brews. For the record, I keep the fermentation temp. towards the high side, 70-72 F., until the krausen settles back (about 2-3 days), then cool down to about 66-68 F. I've gone lower, (62-64), but this seems to really slow things down. The banana nose is there but at a level that I like, but I could probably go for a little more on the phenolic (clove) side of things. This is why I have been promising myself to try the 3058 next time... Glen Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 13:18:06 EST From: Brian=Wilson%Eng%Banyan at hippo.banyan.com Subject: Connecticut Brewers? Hello HBDland, This weekend I am going to go to my brother-in-law's house in Connecticut to help him enter the world of brewing. We plan to go to a brew shop and purchase equipment and ingredients and then do his first brew. Unfortunately I'm not from Connecticut and don't know what's available in the way of brew shops. I would appreciate it if some of you Connecticut brewers could EMAIL me suggestions. He lives in Simsbury which is just north of Hartford. PS - info about the local brewpubs would be nice too. thanks - brian Brian at Banyan.Com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 13:42:55 EST From: Keith A. MacNeal HLO1-1/T09 DTN 225-6171 07-Mar-1994 1340 <macneal at pate.enet.dec.com> Subject: Boiling Caps I boiled my caps to sanitize for the first bag of caps. After that I had switched suppliers and experienced linings separating from the caps after boiling. Since then I do a bleach soak along with my bottles. I know some folks who don't treat their caps at all and claim no infection problems. Keith MacNeal Digital Equipment Corp. Hudson, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Mar 94 03:07:46 From: david.jacobson at hofbbs.com Subject: Park slope brewpub The person asking about information about opening a brewpub in Park Slope, Brookly should be aware that a brewpub is scheduled to open there later this year - --- ~ OLX 2.1 TD ~ Imagination Is A Powerful Deceiver Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 15:27:04 -0500 From: lovelace at pop.nih.gov (Chris Lovelace) Subject: growing hops I have a question for all those hop farmers out there. I'm getting ready to order rhizomes that my dad will plant in his garden for me. I have a book on growing hops that says, in one place, that one should plant both bittering and finishing hops and says, in another place, that one shouldn't plant more than one variety of hops together. I want to grow at least two varieties. They'll be growing in a row about 21 feet long, and I plan to put about 9 rhizomes along that row. Does anyone see a problem with planting, say, 6 Cascades rhizomes and then 3 Perle Rhizomes? Is cross-pollenation a consern here? On another, but similar, note, I need to figure out a way to dry the hops when harvesting season comes. The book I have has plans to construct this big drying gizmo, but I don't want to get into that right now. Can they be dried in the oven? How about something like a small hot-air convection oven or a food dehydrator? Any advice is welcome. Private E-Mail is fine. Chris Lovelace LOVELACE at POP.NIH.GOV Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 13:51:51 PST From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: Soda keg taste? >>>>> "Tim" == Timothy Sixberry <tsixber at msrapid.kla.com> writes: Tim> I would be really greatful if someone could give me some advice Tim> on a recent problem. I have two five gallon batches in soda kegs Tim> that were well cleaned, but that now have a definite surup Tim> flavor. I admit that in one I did not replace the lid o-ring, Tim> but I did in the other. The one has a sickeningly sweet flavor Tim> that tastes just like the o-ring smelled(duh), I have replaced it Tim> now. Both of these kegs have the red plastic lids which were Tim> also scrubed with TSP, but I still think its posible that they Tim> could have contributed to the off flavor. Should I switch the Tim> lids to metal ones? I strongly suspect the plastic lids. I have all metal lids and have replaced all the O-rings and have not had any problems. If you need a source for lids, Foxx sells them. dion Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 17:02:21 -0700 From: uchtlds at earth.oscs.montana.edu (Derek Sheehan) Subject: Plastic bottles - The Experiment I have decided to run the experiment. I am going to bottle my next two batches in plastic (PET) 20 oz. bottles. I am doing this for two reasons. First, the plastic bottles will be much easier to store than glass. There is little or no chance of breakage when full or empty. Second, I want to see if the question of oxygen transport through the plastic is an issue for homebrewing. Apparently it is in the soda industry - BUT they typically deal with pressures in the bottles that a homebrewer never has to worry about. Imagine the pressure inside a 2 liter bottle of Pepsi as it is trucked across the S.W. desert! Here is how I got the bottles. Since they are mostly air (when empty!) they are typically made in the same city that the soda is bottled (it is much cheaper to ship the raw plastic than the finished product). I just found the BOTTLE manufacturer. They were very friendly and actually sold me some experimental 20 oz. bottles. A little bit of kindness on our part went a long way. In fact, we bought 720 bottles! We had decided to split the bottles between 6 people. At 15 cents/bottle it comes to $3.60/case. The people at the bottle factory mentioned the CO2 diffusion problem. They said that the shelf life of soda is 3-4 months before it goes flat. From a homebrewing perspective I don't think that this is a problem. The yeast will slowly replenish the CO2, probably at a rate MUCH faster than it diffuses. I also think that the constant pressure in the bottle will keep gasses from diffusing INTO the bottle. At any rate, the plastic bottles may not be such a good idea for mead, wine or any beverage that sits in the bottle for more than 6 months. I will post the results of my experiment. Cheers! - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Derek Sheehan uchtlds at earth.oscs.montana.edu "Better Living Through Montana State University - Chemistry Chemistry" Bozeman, MT 59715 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 19:17:10 From: Christopher Alan Strickland <beach!chris at cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov> Subject: Partial Mash -> Full Mash Just curious, I don't have the equipment for doing a full mash. But I do have what Miller said was required for a partial mash. I was wondering, why couldn't I do a partial mash, put the extract in my beer pot, then do another partial mash to get a full mash? - -- Chris Strickland Internet: beach!chris at cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 16:28:23 -0800 (PST) From: Peter Maxwell <peterm at aoraki.dtc.hp.com> Subject: more on sucking bleach into wort Steve Tollefsrud presented us with "brilliantly clever ascii illustrations" of a "Gerber Bong" for avoiding sucking bleach in when the pressure drops for any reason. The method, shown below (reproduced without permission) || || || || input tube || || <-- tube to fermenter ___||____||____ [__||____||___] | || || | |_||__o_____| | ||oo | | ||oO o | | o | | o | | GERBERS tm| |___________| is great if the air flow is as shown, but what happens when air flow reverses? When the yeasties do really get into action you're going to be forcing the liquid back into the "input" tube (now the output). Doesn't this indicate the use of one of those S-bend airlocks? Or am I missing something? Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Mar 1994 18:42:13 From: chris.kagy at his.com (Chris Kagy) Subject: re: cold hopping & grassy flavors Tim Lawson <lawson at clcunix.msj.edu> said: > Dry hopping adds the aroma of hop oil (which is not grassy) to the brew > and some degree of bitterness. The aroma of the hop oil might very well be grassy, depending on the variety of hop used. Some hops have an aroma that is less, shall we say, "smooth" and that doesn't blend as nicely as others. Also, age will heal a lot of wounds. A young beer that is dry hopped with Cascade smells, to my nose, like a freshly mowed lawn; leave it age for a while and stuff blends nicely. Lots of factors at play here! -chris Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 1994 19:46:32 -0500 (EST) From: exe01679 <exe01679 at char.vnet.net> Subject: Reply to David Huffman Reply to: |From: huffmand at ccmail.orst.edu |Subject: More beginner questions | 1) What's the story on HBU's as in Papazians book? It seems | that you can get the same HBU value using different amounts | of hops with different AAU's, yet you come up with a | different perceived bitterness according to Papazian's | table. So, if a recipe calls for 20 HBU's you could get a | more or less bitter brew depending on how you achieve the | HBU value. I'm confused. Yes Virginia, there is confusion. If you boil 2 oz of 10 % alpha hops you get the same bittering as 4 oz of 5 % alpha hops or 8 oz of 2.5 % alpha hops. Wat effects the bitterness more is the amount of time you boil the hops. If you boil less than 60 minutes you reduce the utilization rate thus reducing the bitterness. | 2) Does the vigor of the boil affect either the color | of the final brew, or the OG of the wort? My Pils is NOT | straw colored (more like red-brown) and I missed the OG by | 10 to 15 points. Yes, the vigor of the boil does slightly effect the color. You run the risk of slightly carmalizing the sugar at higher temperatures. The major question would be did you use extract or all grain. With extract you'll rarely get a nice straw color. Some extracts will but I haven't found one myself. Did you use any crystal malt? How dark was it ? Use a Cara Pils crystal next time. It's a very light malt. The Gravity just means you didn`t have enough malt. With all Grain it's easy on the first batch or two not to hit the gravities. You learn to compensate for your own brewery. Hopefully this helps you David and some others. Dennis Davison - Beer Barons Of Milwaukee exe01679 at char.vnet.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 94 19:07:40 "PST From: Mike Dix <mdix at dcssc.sj.hp.com> Subject: Homegrown Hop data point This is the traditional season for hop growing questions, so I thought there would be some interest: My Hallertauer hop rhizome, which I planted two years ago, has about thirty shoots, up to four inches long, as of March 6. This is in San Jose (37.5 deg N latitude). It does not appear to like full sun at my location: The west side of the house is four feet away, and a covered patio blocks the southern sun. Both seasons, when the growing tip extended above the patio roof, it turned brown and died. The remainder of the plant flourished. I made a primitive trellis of two pieces of water pipe pounded into the ground. They support some aircraft cable, each end of which is staked to the ground. The vines twine around pieces of twine which are tied to the cable. Contrary to the HBD FAQ, I planted the root horizontally, as per "Homegrown Hops". It seems to prefer this, because the root is spreading horizontally over our herb corner. It might be time to divide it. I bought the root from Fermentation Settlement, after trying for a couple years to grow the scrawny "twigs" supplied by Nichols Garden Nursery. It was very pleasant to get a root as thick as my index finger, that "took" right away. Another worthwhile bit of advice from "HH" is to plant the root as early in the season as possible in your location. Nichols did not ship until it was convenient for them in March, so maybe that is why they never sprouted for me. I would be interested to hear other people's experiences. Mike Dix Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Mar 94 23:54:25 EST From: Mike Slowik <SLOWIK%UCONNVM.bitnet at YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu> Subject: Bad Taste This is a call for help. I'm new to homebrewing, and my last four batches have developed a definite medicinal taste. The brew is beautiful to look at, nice head retention, not even a hint of chill haze, but that awful taste... it's not that strong at first , but the burp taste could remove paint. Its like fumes comming out of your mouth! Just a little background, I kit brew following Papazians methods, and I pay careful attention to sanitation. After reading thru the Yeast FAQ it mentioned that chlorine can cause yeast to give off a medicinal taste. I use bleach to disinfect, but I was confident that I rinsed pretty good. I haven't had my water checked (well water, but the well was drilled just last year if that matters). Can anyone out there lend me there experience and guide me toward a fix? Could it be just as simple as rinsing better? Could it be my water is causing some kind of reaction? Maybe there is something else I don't know about. The beer is drinkable, but all my friends keep asking me to break out my home brew, and if my wife gets wind that I'm wasting money on bottled crap my beer allowance could be in jeopardy. E Mail response is great and much thanks. Mike Slowik SLOWIK at UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1367, 03/08/94