HOMEBREW Digest #1404 Thu 21 April 1994

Digest #1403 Digest #1405

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Agar Followup (David Knight)
  Two problems... (David Knight)
  oatmeal stout ("Corey W. Janecky")
  regarding lead and brass... ("DANIEL HOUG")
  incubators ("Corey W. Janecky")
  Job? (Jason Sloan)
  The Brass Thread Again ("Palmer.John")
  GuppyMasher(tm) (berkun)
  Chill Haze (Steve Scampini)
  Mashing In Oven Overnight (Phil Brushaber)
  HopTech Sill Here/Mashout/AB Amber Ale/Lamp for HP (Mark Garetz)
  RE: GRAIN PRICES (greg.demkowicz)
  (Hefe)weizen question (Brant Katkansky)
  bruheat (Rich Ryan)
  water chemistry (Jim Dipalma)
  (kinda) Grand Cru ("Steven W. Smith")
  Re: extract vs all grain, TB BEERS? (Lou King)
  RIMS parts (btalk)
  Re:  Mashing with specialty grains (Bill Hollingsworth)
  Re: spelling, British tour (Jeff Frane)
  Re: Beer Accross America (R. KEITH FRANK, DCR&D B-1222, 409-238-9880)
  Railey North Carolina & BREW PUBS etc... (flehouillier)
  D.C. Brew pubs (es76)
  Aeration: not that crucial? (Paul Sovcik)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 16:02:51 EDT From: David Knight <dknight at ren.iterated.com> Subject: Agar Followup Sorry for the delay in posting this, but I've been out of town for the past week. I got many replies to my request for information on where to buy agar for yeast culturing (thanks to all who responded), and it really boils down to three sources: 1) Scientific outlets. 2) Asian supermarkets. 3) Health food stores. I called some local scientific supply houses and only found one that would sell me agar, by the pound, for about $60 per pound. I think a pound would probably last me the rest of my brewing life, but am not prepared to spend $60 on a yeast culturing experiment that is supposed to save me money in the long run. I tried several small Asian supermarkets in Atlanta to no avail, but haven't tried any large ones yet. I expect to find it at some of the larger ones. By the way, ask for 'agar-agar'. I don't know any local health food stores so I haven't tried them either. One of the responses I got seems particularly useful and may be of interest to the HBD. Here it is: ========================================================================== From: "Charles Ewen" <p00739 at psilink.com> Subject: agar-agar I have before me a package of "Six Fortune Brand Delicious Agar-Agar". I bought it at a local Oriental supermarket (they haven't become PC yet, i.e., Asian). It is a product of Taiwan, net weight 40gr (1.4oz.) and cost $1.79. If memory serves, this will make about a quart of solution, but don't quote me on that - it's been more than a year since I had to use the "roll-your-own" stuff (my sister got a job in a lab). I haven't been doing much streaking this past year; mostly just repitching my favorite little beasties. The only way I ever found this stuff was to talk to the American-educated daughter of the place - her mom, dad, uncles and aunts stood around looking mystified at me as I tried various pronounciations. If you have to walk the aisles looking for it, this particular brand comes packaged in clear celeophane, with red lettering and 2 inch red bands on the ends. It's not in a box, just soft celophane; it's about 4 inches across and 18 inches long. This particular stuff is off-white; kind of a yellowish beige. Good hunting! ============================================================================ Thanks for all the great feedback. Now if I can just find some ... -Dave Knight dknight at ren.iterated.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 16:15:47 EDT From: David Knight <dknight at ren.iterated.com> Subject: Two problems... I recently took a stab at an American Light Lager (for my fiance who thinks that Coors Light is the greatest beer in the world). It was made with 5 lbs of pale malt and 2 lbs of rice, O.G. 1.040, F.G. 1.006, WYeast 2112 (California Lager). Primary ferment at 70 degrees, secondary at 32 degrees for about 3 weeks, bottled with 4 ounces corn sugar. After bottling it was kept at room temperature for 3 days and then at 45 degrees for 2 weeks. There is a small amount of sediment at the bottom (not much, though). I tried one a few days ago and noticed two problems: 1) *NO* carbonation. There is a slight *pfft* sound when you open the cap, but when poured, the beer is totally flat. By the way, I used Pure-Seal oxygen-absorbing bottle caps. 2) The beer has little flavor (that's what I was aiming for), but a rather strange aftertaste that I have trouble describing. The closest thing I can compare it to is milk. I checked in the trouble shooting sections in Papazian and Miller and couldn't find a reference to the taste I'm describing. Has anyone observed anything like this before? It is quite unpleasant. By the way, the yeast was reused from another batch (steam) -- taken from the primary and washed using the method in the yeast faq. Fermentation was vigorous with no off odors. Thanks in advance for any assistance. -Dave Knight dknight at ren.iterated.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 14:16:03 CST From: "Corey W. Janecky" <cjanecky at students.wisc.edu> Subject: oatmeal stout Does anyone out there have a good oatmeal stout recipe. I have been doing mostly extract brewing w/ use of some specialty grains. I'm not equiped to do all grain brewing so that type of recipe won't do me much good. You can send responses to me or to the HBD. I know there have been other people interested in oatmeal stouts so any messages sent to me will be compiled and posted on the HBD. This summer I plan on picking cherries and I'm wondering if anyone has tried the recipe in Papazian-Cherries in the Snow? The recipe sounds really good but is it worth the time/money? Thanks in advance for any/all replies. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 15:51:05 CST From: "DANIEL HOUG" <HOUGD at mdh-bemidji.health.state.mn.us> Subject: regarding lead and brass... Here's some factual information on brass and water quality, maybe I can even relate this to homebrewing. Brass is a composite metal containing (very) approximately 7%-8% lead to lend maleability (sp?). It can contribute lead into drinking water supplies when corrosive water (low pH and low dissolved solids) stands for a period (6 hours typical) in a brass fixture. Notice your nice chrome plated brass kitchen faucet. That first slug of water you make your coffee with in the morning would contain the highest levels of lead given mildly corrosive conditions. What is very important to note is that after this first draw of water is removed, very little lead is contributed to your drinking water by the fixture. Look for a nation-wide public education campaign in the upcoming year to tell people to run their water until they feel a temperature change (to colder) before using it for drinking or cooking. Homebrewing? Personally, since I pride myself on producing a relatively pure product, I won't increase the risk contamination by using components containing a harmful substance. Incidental contact with a brass valve, bottle filler, etc. may not be a problem. Do not use it in wort kettles or mash/lauter-tuns due to the extended contact-time with a hot, acidic solution. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 14:39:35 CST From: "Corey W. Janecky" <cjanecky at students.wisc.edu> Subject: incubators I've been contemplating building some type of fermentation chamber/incubator for my beer and I could use some help w/ ideas. 1. Is this worth my time? That is, is it that important to keep the fermenting wort at a constant temp? 2. What type of device can i use to regulate the temperature. Yes, I know I need some type of thermostat but what kind and what type of heat source should I use. I thought of a lightbulb but won't the light be damaging to the fermenting beer? 3. Are there any books out there w/ plans/directions for construction? Since I also make wine, I sometimes have several carboys fermenting at one time (esp. in the fall-fruit season) so I want a chamber that will hold several carboys. Thanks for any info you can give me. Responses can be sent to the HBD (others may be interested) or directly to me. Thanks again. Corey Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 18:11:48 -0400 From: aa3625 at freenet.lorain.oberlin.edu (Jason Sloan) Subject: Job? I just bombed a histology test. I was wondering... If I can't get into medical school, is there a job in brewing for a biology major? I will have my bachelor's degree in July and I was just curious what a biology major like myself would do if he doesn't get into medicine. On a different note, I am a new brewer (only about 5 batches so far) and was wondering if there was any way to make beer of any quality out of nothing but whole wheat grains and hops and yeast? The reason I ask: There has been some wheat land in my family since the time that they came over from Germany some 120 years ago. Now that I am making my own beer, I was curious if there would be some way to use the grain from the fields that my great, great grandfather once farmed. A somewhat romantic notion I know, but I know that my anscestors used to brew their own and I would like too be able to use some of this grain. I look forward to any and all suggestions! Much thanks. - -- Jason Sloan sloan01?jason at cc01.mssc.edu or aa3625 at freenet.lorain.oberlin.edu - ---Yo ho ho and a bucket of homebrew... Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Apr 1994 15:13:07 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: The Brass Thread Again Hello Group, The Brass/Lead scare has struck again. I am sure many of you have heard about the brass parts used in some home wellpumps. Reportedly, one company has used leaded brass in their pump assemblies. I don't know which company. Here is the lowdown on Brass. Brass is a group of Copper and Zinc alloys that can contain Tin and Lead. The alloys are predominantly Copper, with Zinc ranging from 5-40 percent. The Tin is usually less than 2%, because Cu-Sn alloys are called Bronze. Lead is unfortunatly rather common in Brass alloys, ranging from 0-10%. Brass Casting alloys, known as Red and Yellow Brasses, commonly used for plumbing fixtures, can contain 3-7% Lead. The following alloys are used for plumbing/fixtures. UNS ALLOY Common Name Contains Lead? Usage *Wrought alloys* C23000 Red Brass No pipe C24000 Low Brass No pump lines, flexible hose C26000 Cartridge Brass No Plumbing accessories C26800 Yellow Brass No same as C26000 C27000 Yellow Brass No same as C26000 C34900 Low Leaded Brass 0.35% Plumbing goods C46400- C46700 Naval Brass No marine hardware C48200- C48500 Leaded Naval Brass <2% marine hardware *Cast alloys* C83600 Leaded Red Brass 5% valves, pipe fittings, etc C83800 Leaded Red Brass 6% plumbing supplies, fittings C84200- C84800 Pb'd Semi-Red Brasses <7% plumbing fixtures, fittings C85200- C85400 Leaded Yellow Brass 3% plumbing fixtures, fittings >From the reading that I did today, I think that the Cast alloys are going to be some of the most common that the homebrewer will find in hardware stores. This is not good. All I can offer is for you to keep in mind that the risk from Lead containing plumbing and fittings is always in reference to continual use, you know, water standing in the pipes, etc. For the home brewer, we need to consider the time of exposure against the possible increase in leaching from greater acidity and higher temperature. Consider that the contact area is very small, most of us only use a fitting or two. Consider that the lead is only a small percentage of the alloy. Consider that the lead is fully soluble in the copper, its not hanging out in the wind, so to speak. Looking at this information, I would say that the health risk is small. I will be happy to answer specific questions regarding alloy content and usage. If I find out any further information, I will post it. John Palmer Head Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P, Space Station program palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com OR palmer#d#john.ssd-hb_#l#15&22#r# at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 18:26:12 -0400 From: Daniel McMahon <dmcmahon at blanche.acq.osd.mil> From: dmcmahon Full-Name: Daniel McMahon at pr Subject: Danish Brews & Pubs To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com I know that the HBD extends far and wide. I was looking for some advice/info on brewpubs, etc. in Copenhagen and Oslo. I'll be traveling there next week. I recall several months back a long post from a Danish homebrewer describing his methods. Are you still around? Either way I'll make notes of what I find and share them when I get back. TIA, Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 15:35:59 PDT From: berkun at guiduk.ENET.dec.com Subject: GuppyMasher(tm) I am compelled to offer my experiences in the all grain v. extract war. I have just made the transition and won't go back - but neither can I paint the rosy picture of many of the more experienced all grain brewers. My major complaint is with people who claim that it's "as easy as falling off a log", or "bending copper tubing is easy with a five dollar tube bender". Ha! I say, Ha! The tube bender is eight dollars at my hardware store and it still wasn't easy!!! I have successfully brewed 2 partials and 2 all grains, each better than the last. I am finally acheiving the kind of tastes that I've lusted after in the best professional microbrews. I'm a happy guy. But it was neither easy nor cheap. Building the GuppyMasher(tm) My masher is a 10 gallon Coleman cooler. It cost way too much money (I'm embarrassed to admit how much). I never found any of those deals on coolers that other people find. Yes, I did shop around and I did buy at a discount store. So now I have a big square cooler. I removed the pushbutton and started experimenting with hardware. I got to spend a lot of quality time at my local hardware store and at the Eagle super hardware store. I can't tell you exactly what I ended up with because I assembled it several weeks ago and can't remember exactly what's inside and I'm damned if I'm EVER going to take it apart after all the effort I went thru to put it together and it DOESN'T LEAK! (much) But roughly, it comprises a faucet, a washer, a half inch threaded tube, the existing washer, an O ring or two, a nut, a converter to 3/8" to a compression fitting on 3/8" copper tubing. Thank you Dion H. for your bulkhead suggestions. Now, copper tubing. Copper tubing is not cheap. 10 feet for the manifold (including the manifold I destroyed), and misc. and 25 feet for the chiller. I bought a tube bender. Bending copper tube takes PATIENCE. I ended up taking the tube, the bender an a bunch of homebrew to a friend of a friend who can make anything (Bill Guppy, hence the name, GuppyMasher(tm)), and he patiently bent me up a copper manifold to fit inside the cooler. It follows roughly the pattern shown in the rectangular cooler FAQ, but different, because it's physically impossible to bend copper tube to that exact pattern no matter what they tell you. I was able to borrow a Moto-Tool to cut the slots in the manifold. This is an extra $80 expense because now that I know how cool Moto-Tools are, I have to go out and buy one, so don't ever let one of these fall into your hands or you can just kiss off that money. The astounding thing about this is that it works! I was able to siphon hot water into the standing tube and underlet the mash. And then it ran off pretty well through the manifold and when it slowed too much I just blew into the siphon tube and things picked right up. One problem is the faucet is too high up so the output splashes, so I'll have to attach a tube to it and let it drap on the bottom of the pot receiving the runoff. One other problem is measuring temperature. I seems to vary considerably depending on where you measure. So I'm no where close to figuring mash temperature accurately. Now, about that boiling vessel. I bought the mail order 10 gallon cut off keg from BCI. Good service. But watch out - those cut off edges are still pretty sharp. I used the Moto-Tool to round them off a bit and reduce my hearing capacity at the same time. The keg is narrow and tall. I can only see into it when I stand on tiptoe, when it's on my stove. One stove burner alone is not enough to drive it to a boil. And this is a new gas stove. I'm damned if I'm going to buy a cajun cooker, I want to do this indoors. So I'm balancing this thing on two burners and wasting a lot of gas. Also, the bottom edge has scraped the finish on this new stove, when my wife sees this I'm gonna pay. And finally, you can't put a lid on this thing. No way. This keg is NOT recommended. I'm going to have to fork out for a real pot. Anybody interested in the keg? $30 plus shipping. Chiller Cut a cheap ($5) hose in half and use hose clamps to attach it to the copper tubing. After much tightening it didn't leak too much. For the first actual brewing I replaced the hose clamps with TWO hose clamps (on each side). Turn off the heat, turn on the faucet and twin jets of cold water shot out the hose onto the cookbook shelf. Much tightening of clamps later I have it down to a slow leak. I'm going to have to replace the clamps with compression fittings and adaptors all of which will leak. I know this. But, amazing! It worked, cooled the wort to 90 in 15 minutes and because this whole operation had taken 7 hours and we had symphony tickets and I had lost an hour in the morning because the first water I heated still had some dish soap in it, I decided that 90 was close enough. The upshot: Assembling the equipment was hard. The whole operation leaks. It cost more money than I anticipated. I'm not done buying things. It is still time consuming, but I'm sure I can cut the time down with experience. I haven't yet totalled up what I spent, I'm sure it'll take a year of heavy drinking to break even. I can deal with this. It makes great beer. I love it. I'm not interested in reducing the time too much. This is my hobby. I LIKE spending time on it. This is a long entry, so flame me. I had to brag to someone. Ken B. berkun at guiduk.enet.dec.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 22:07:38 EDT From: Steve Scampini <scampini at hp-and.an.hp.com> Subject: Chill Haze A personal observation on chill haze. I made a California lager beer which was clear as crystal in the bottle at room temperature but hazy as heck at refrigerator temperatures. I stored the last two bottles at 50 F for four months and they were crystal clear after refrigeration. I guess the chill haze settled out. Just for fun, I was wondering if any of you chemists out there have played with centrifuging beer samples to speed any settling? Then I was thinking, heck, that big `ol washing machine over there is nothing more than a centrifuge when it is in spin cycle...and then I was thinking about a bottle rack that fit into the machine... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 20:35:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Phil Brushaber <pbrush at netcom.com> Subject: Mashing In Oven Overnight Recently I re-read some old HBD articles and I came across an interesting article on mashing grain in an oven (presumably at about 130^) in a kettle overnight. It would be great to gain about 1.5 hours on a typical brewday by doing some of the work the night before. Has anyone done this successfully. Are their downsides in extending the mash to 8 hours (overnight) in a oven? pbrush at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 0:18:50 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: HopTech Sill Here/Mashout/AB Amber Ale/Lamp for HP Al Gaspar wanted to know if we are still around (HopTech that is). Yes. Don't know why he couldn't contact us via email, it does seem to be working. Address is: mgaretz at hoptech.com (and yes Don, your memory was good). **** Some have asked about the usefulness and method of the mashout for picnic cooler mashers. The purpose is to stop enzyme activity, but I doubt this is necessary with homebrew mash schedules. In a commercial brewery the mash schedules are likely to be as short as possible (20-30 minutes) and they want to make a very consistent product, so a quick stop of the enzyme activity is probably necessary (they also want to control their alcohol content as close as possible). For us homebrewers, we usually mash a lot longer (60-90 minutes) so most of the enzyme activity is done by this time anyway. So the mashout in and of itself is most likely unnecessaary. I sat in on the UC Davis advanced homebrewing class this weekend, and they recommend no mashout. Having said that, the sparge wants to be at "mashout" temps to insure fast and good extraction. As for how to do it with a picnic cooler, I am a subscriber to the "batch sparge" method where all the sparge water is added to the grain at once. Therefore I get mashout for free because the temp of the water is chosen to raise the entire temperature to about 170F (usually takes about 180F water). (is this the EasyMashOut(tm)?) But if you want to do the traditional trickle sparge, then all you would have to do is add some of the sparge water at boiling to raise the mash bed to 170F and then trickle sparge with 170F water. **** Glen Raudins asked about where to put the taps on his chest freezer. The side walls (at least in *my* chest freezers) have the cooling coils in them. The top is the only place guaranteed to have none. So you can put the tower there, but make sure it doesn't bash the wall when you open the lid. If you want to put the tap on the front (or side) here's how you might be able to figure out where the coils are: 1) Take out all the beer and clean the walls. 2) Mist some water on the walls with a plant sprayer so you have a nice even coating of water droplets on the walls. 3) Turn the freezer on its coldest setting (no temp controller) and let it run for about 5 minutes. 4) Open the lid and look at the walls. Ice should be starting to form where the coil line is. If there is no ice yet, let the freezer work some more and check every few minutes. If the ice layer is even, you have one powerful freezer! Try again with less time. Note that I haven't tried this for the purpose of drilling holes but my chest freezers exhibit this behaviour after I clean them (ice freezing first along the coil lines). It is basically the opposite of what happens when you defrost your car's rear window. **** I haven't seen it here (I might have missed it), but A-B is coming out with an Amber Ale! It will be available shortly in the East, and the first few weeks of May on the West Coast. Supposedly it will be called Elk Mountain. It will be available only on tap. **** Lastly, if anyone out there has a spare (or used) lamp for an HP 8452A Spectrophotometer that they are willing to part with inexpensively, please send me email. (And yes, I know how to get a new lamp from HP, but being short of funds precludes that just now. I also know about most of the "alternate" lamp sources but they aren't much cheaper than HP). Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 09:55:59 -0500 [EST] From: greg.demkowicz at circellar.com Subject: RE: GRAIN PRICES In the recent thread about all-grain versus extract costs, someone asked about grain prices. Well I've been buying 50 lb bags of Schreier for $32.50 from "The Brewmeister, 115 N. Union Ave., Cranford, N.J. 07016 Phone:908-709-9295 or ouside N.J.:800-322-3020. He also carries both the 2 row and 6 row of Briess for the same price and quantity. Yes, They do mail order. Disclaimer: No affiliation, just a satisfied customer! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 1994 01:31:05 -0700 (PDT) From: brantk at adcmail.atlas.com (Brant Katkansky) Subject: (Hefe)weizen question I'm preparing to (attempt to) brew a weizen-style beer. I'd like to approximate the flavor and character of hefeweizen as much as possible. Since I don't yet brew all-grain, I'm going to go with an extract + specialty grains recipe. I've obtained 3.3kg of 60% wheat/40% barley LME (unhopped), and the necessary hops (haven't decided what to use yet). What I'm looking for is suggestions on specialty grains and/or yeast. A few months ago, I brewed a 30% wheat beer using the Wyeast Bavarian Wheat yeast, and I was pleased with the results. However, it doesn't come close to the character of a hefe-. I have heard of a new strain from Wyeast (don't recall the name, but I'd recognize it) that supposedly is ideal for a hefe-style beer. Any suggestions on yeast/hops/grain selection and/or process are MOST appreciated. I'm out of the country with no email access until the 24th, so don't expect any gratuitous thank you's until then. :) - -- brantk at atlas.com | "Electricity is made up of very small particles called Atlas Telecom | electrons, which you cannot see unless you have been Portland, OR | drinking homebrew." --- This message printed with 100% recycled electrons --- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 08:42:32 -0400 From: Rich Ryan <ryancr at install4.swin.oasis.gtegsc.com> Subject: bruheat I am looking for any comments, good and bad on the bruheat. It is a plastic bucket with a heating element in the bottom. I've been told I can use it as both a mash kettle and a boiler. Has anyone used one of these? What is a good price for one? I'm ready to make the jump to all grain and wonder if this is worth the investment. Any info will be greatly appreciated. Rich Ryan ryancr at install4.swin.oasis.gtegsc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 09:02:34 EDT From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Subject: water chemistry Hi All, Picking up the recent thread on water chemistry: >>Crushed malt works very well. >It works well to a point. Depending on your water chemistry, it may not be >enough, or it may be too much. The first few all grain batches I did took forever (2 - 2.5 hrs) for the mash to convert, even though I was holding the temperatures in a reasonable range (~155F). I started checking pH, found that my tap water is ~8.0. Further, when the water and crushed malt were combined, the pH barely budged. I started adding gypsum to the mash, but it required several teaspoons to get the mash pH down to a suitable range. >Gypsum is commonly used to lower mash pH, but >if you have lots of sulfates already in your water, it may cause some >undesirable flavors. Yep, this was my experience, the addition of gypsum got the conversion times down, but the beers were coming out with a very harsh bitterness. I finally had a water analysis done, the results showed my water was extremely high in calcium bicarbonate (I have a private well). Referring back to the brewing books, I learned that calcium bicarb acts as a pH buffer, it's presence inhibits acidification, which explained why the pH barely dropped after mashing in. I started pre-boiling the water, a ten minute boil produced a thick layer of white, chalky precipitate in the bottom of the pot. >>It depends on what is causing the "high" pH but throwing a lot of gunk in to >>get it down when it may not be necessary is not the way to go about it. >True. We all seem to be in violent agreement on this point. With the bicarb removed, the malt acidified the mash nicely, right to 5.3 - 5.4. The mashes reached full conversion in ~45 minutes, I stopped adding gypsum, and the harsh flavor went away. Other than boiling the water to remove the bicarbonate, no other treatment of mash water was required. >Many people can >get away with doing nothing to the water. Others, like myself, have to make >some adjustments which weren't obvious without a water report and some pH >readings. This is the crux of the issue, some people are fortunate enough to have water that is suitable for brewing and requires no treatment. Jack seems to be one of those people, as he's been successful without treating his brewing water. My water is somewhat less than optimal, due to the alkalinity and temporary hardness, but I still manage to brew a wide range of styles successfully. Like Norm, having my water analyzed, reading up on water chemistry, and taking some pH readings at various points in my brewing process helped me to understand what I was dealing with. Jeff Frane writes: >Although Jack will apparently disagree, control over your brewing water >is *enormously* important to an all-grain brewer, and one of the most >essential elements in successfully brewing to style. I agree with Jeff, understanding the characteristics of the water you're brewing with, and how it will impact the process and the flavor of the finished product is extremely important to successful all-grain brewing. Unfortunately, it's probably the one factor most commonly overlooked and least understood by homebrewers. Cheers, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: 20 Apr 1994 06:24:16 -0700 (MST) From: "Steven W. Smith" <SMITH_S at gc.maricopa.edu> Subject: (kinda) Grand Cru Howdy do, all. It's share a recipe and solicit advice time once again. Having guzzled >$10.00 of Celis Grand Cru I thought I'd try to create something similar. While the resulting beer is Damned Tasty and seems to be on the right track, it's spices are more subtle than I'd planned. Next time I'll use more coriander seed (or crush finer) and orange peel, maybe different hops, different yeast (advice on hops and yeast most welcome). Without further ado, the recipe and convoluted procedure for 5 gallons of Tooncinator Motley Cru*: 8 pounds Briess Wheat/Malt powder (2 big ziplocks) 2 pounds Vienna carapils malt (2 small ziplocks) 1 3/4 cups corn sugar 1 oz. Lublin(?) hops, A=3.1 boil (pellets) 1 oz. Hallertau hops, A=4.8 boil (pellets) 1 oz. Hallertau hops, A=4.8 finishing (pellets) 1/2 oz. coriander seed (freshly crushed) about 1/2 oz. dried orange peel (Lawries?) 5 whole cloves (to make me feel good, imperceptable) 2 packages Red Star Ale yeast Crystal bottled water Crushed and steeped carapils. >30 min at 130F, 150F, 170F. Sparged, increased volume to almost 4 gallons, heated and stirred in malt powder. Added hops in 4 portions after boil began, about every 15 minutes until they were all in - boiled another 45 minutes after last addition. Turned off heat, stirred in coriander seed, orange peel and cloves, started the chiller about 2-3 minutes later. Siphoned into carboy, added water to about 5 gallons, pitched yeast directly and shook to aereate. Wort didn't taste unduly strange, kind of hoppy, not too spicy. After secondary fermentation was complete I decided it should be hoppier and added the 2nd oz. of hallertau pellets. 3 days later I reconsidered and racked off the hops. I further decided to test out the scrubbing bubbles theory of hops reduction - I boiled 1 cup of corn sugar and steeped another tsp orange peel and added it - got a fairly vigorous fermentation for several more days. 1 week after the corn sugar fiasco I added another 3/4 cup and bottled. Pretty good, hops are just about right, pretty light on the coriander and orange peel. Very tasty after about 2 weeks in the bottle. _,_/| \o.O; Steven W. Smith, Programmer/Analyst =(___)= Glendale Community College, Glendale Az. USA U smith_s at gc.maricopa.edu * dedicated to the memory of Tooncinator, robotic driving cat from the future. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 10:15:11 EDT From: Lou King <lking at hns.com> Subject: Re: extract vs all grain, TB BEERS? >>>>> On Tue, 19 Apr 94 14:09:33 EDT, fudgemastr at aol.com said: > A propane bruner (Cajun Cooker) 135,000 BTU, it cost me $59. (and it came > with a groovy pot and frying basket that's great for deep frying chicken) I've been thinking about getting one of these, but I don't want to brew outdoors (which is recommended). Do you brew outdoors? If not, what kind of safety precautions do you take (e.g., ventilation, etc)? -Lou King (lking at hns.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 06:48:36 PDT From: kdamrow at ariel.thomas.com (Kip Damrow) Subject: BEER FESTIVAL UPDATE Hello HBD, This is my final shameless plug for the "Great Arizona Beer Festival". This event is set for this coming weekend, April 23 & 24, from 1-6pm both days. The site is Scottsdale Stadium. Attendance is projected to be 5,000 - 8,000 craft beer lovers. There are going to be 30-40 breweries participating in the tastings. There also is a certified homebrew contest. And to top it all off, there are 3 stages for live music. $12 admission benifits two local charities. Tickets available at Ticketmaster or at the gate. Call any of the 8 Arizona micro's for more info. See you there, Kip Micro Distributing Enterprises usual disclaimers DO NOT apply... my company is the exclusive merchandiser for the festival. If you are interested in "Great Arizona Beer Festival" souvenirs (pints with all AZ logo's, T's, embroidered polo's) or my microbrewery gift catalog -- send me e-mail. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 11:10:43 EDT From: btalk at aol.com Subject: RIMS parts I had been in contact with Mark Simpson, San Diego area (if my memory works at all) regarding some RIMS parts. Anyhow, I managed to lose email address. Mark , please contact me. Bob Talkiewicz <btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 11:45:23 EDT From: Bill Hollingsworth <U9508WH at VM1.HQADMIN.DOE.GOV> Subject: Re: Mashing with specialty grains Norm Pyle writes: > This isn't logical. The mash contains enzymes which work to break > down starches into fermentable and unfermentable sugars. The longer > the enzymes are allowed to work, the more fermentable sugars > (smaller sugars) are produced as the enzymes chop away (remember > Charlie's picture of the little lumberjacks?). I can't see how the > unfermentable sugars in crystal malt are immune to this enzymatic > activity in the mash. I agree with your theory (and I do indeed remember Charlie's picture of the little enzymes chopping and nibbling away at the starch molecule), which is why I posted my original question about using specialty grains in a partial mash. It didn't make sense to me to include specialties in the mash, since I thought this would diminish the intended purpose of specialty grain (again, mouthfeel and sweetness). I just kinda figured that with additional enzymatic activity the dextrins in crystal malt would be even further broken down into smaller pieces of three, two, or even one very fermentable glucose molecule. My follow up post was only intended to summarize the advice given to me by the various people I had corresponded with who had opinions on the subject. I'm no molecular biologist, so I really can't say what happens to malt that has already been mashed in the grain when it is reintroduced to an environment of further enzymatic activity. However, I do logically question that if crytal malt can be further broken down, then why didn't it happen during the original mash when the grain was crystalized? Also, it's apparently a fact that many microbreweries mash all grains together (including the specialties), maybe due to time and equipment considerations, and this information may influence whether you would like to do the same. Of course, if you have the extra pots you can choose to steep specialties separately. I guess it all just depends on the characteristic you're after. Anyway, I should talk, I have yet to mash, which was why I posed the question in the first place. Cheers, Bill H. My various E-Mail Addresses ---> OfficeVision: DOEVM(U9508WH) BITNET: U9508WH at DOEVM.BITNET Internet: u9508wh at vm1.hqadmin.doe.gov X.400: ADMD=ATTMAIL/PRMD=USDOE/O=HQADMIN/OU1=DOEVM/OU2=U9508WH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 1994 08:56:37 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Re: spelling, British tour I know that the net is a notorious source of poor spelling (wonder how all these people got through college?), so I'm not pointing any fingers (I don't have that many fingers!), but: for the record, there is no "d" in refrigerator. Really. ====== I have gone on record before complaining about trip reports, brewery tours, etc. I would also like to go on record as saying that Tom Cannon's "Notes on a London Beer Hunt" is a pretty good example of how such a report *should* be done. Concise and full of information; an interesting anecdote or two... > > The trip has gotten me primed for trying cask conditioning > home brew. Does anyone have any experience in real cask > conditioning? I'm also very interested in acquiring a beer > engine. Any sources would be greatly appreciated. > If memory serves, the 1985 Special All-Grain Issue of Zymurgy contains an article by Rande Reed which thoroughly covers the subject of cask conditioning. I *think* he gave sources for ordering casks, engines, bungs, etc from England, and suggestions about building some of the furniture that couldn't be acquired otherwise. At any rate, it's a start. Beer engines are around, as a number of brewpubs will attest; I believe they are pretty expensive. Rande's plan, I think, called for direct tapping of the cask. The drawback that has discouraged me from doing true cask-conditioning is the problem of oxidation. Once that cask has been tapped, the beer needs to be consumed in a couple of days. I suppose you *could* schedule your beer around a big party, but still -- then everybody else would get to drink your beer up. A tough call. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 1994 12:04:52 -0400 From: keithfrank at dow.com (R. KEITH FRANK, DCR&D B-1222, 409-238-9880) Subject: Re: Beer Accross America In response to David Brewer's Question about Beer Across America (BAA), I was a member for a year or so and I really enjoyed it. It was a good deal. Unfortunately, I live in Texas which is, to say the least, a backwards place when it comes to beer laws. The Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission has ruled that BAA can no longer ship to Texas. Apparantely, there is one other state in the Union that has a similar problem. If, however, you live in any of the the other 48 states, here is the info: Beer Across America 150 Hilltop Avenue P.O. Box 728 Barrington, IL 60011-0728 708-842-2337 708-842-2331 (FAX) Regards, Keith Frank (keithfrank at dow.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 12:17:31 EDT From: flehouillier at VNET.IBM.COM Subject: Railey North Carolina & BREW PUBS etc... I'm planning a trip to Railey NC at the start of May 1994 and would like to ask any of you zymurgist out there if you know of any reputable brew pubs or other similar venues that one should visit. Thanks much for your forth coming suggestions. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 12:19 EDT From: Eric_SARLIN at umail.umd.edu (es76) Subject: D.C. Brew pubs This post is directed to Jeff Ziehler who was looking for good brew pubs in the Washington D.C. area. There aren't many worthwhile brew pubs in the district (at least that I know of), though you should check out the Brickskellers off of Dupont Circle. Although they do no on-sight brewing, they, at one point, boasted the largest international beer selection in the world. It's a bit pricey, but worth it. For good brew pubs, you need to hop on the metro, and ride to the "Court House" stop which is near Roslyn, VA. Bardo Rodeo's at 2000 Wilson Blvd. is a retired oldsmobile dealership turned brew pub targeted at the twenty something generation. You'll find great beer, good food, and good music for very reasonable prices. Their India Pale Ale is perhaps the best I've ever tasted. All their other brews are worth checking out too, except their stout. I think they call it Wild Boar stout or something similar, but it's mediocre at best. They usually have between 12 and 20 in-house brews ready to go as well as other beer. You may also want to check out old town Alexandria which has a few small brew pubs with limited selections. Yours in Zymurgy, Eric Sarlin Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 94 11:10:04 CDT From: Paul Sovcik <U18183%UICVM at UIC.EDU> Subject: Aeration: not that crucial? Having come into temporary posession of a copy of Brewing and Malting Science recently, I came upon a very interesting section on wort aeration. An experiment was performed on the effect dissolved oxygen had on unfermented wort. One aspect of the study apparently looked at the yeast replication and corellated that to the amount of oxygen saturated. A graph was shown (sorry, I dont have the book in front of me and I dont know the page numbers) that plotted # of yeast cells vs. oxygen saturation in wort. The graph shows that below a saturation point of 25%, the amount of yeast reproduction dramatically and exponentially drops to presumably zero with no oxygen in the wort. However, at any saturation point above 25%, there is no apprecable difference in the number of yeast cells. And the kicker here is that other findings of this experiment showed that no matter what the oxygen level in the unfermented wort, at the finish of fermetnation, THE ALCOHOL LEVEL WAS THE SAME. From this I would have to assume that fermentation went to completion no matter how poorly aerated the wort was. So, from this study one can conclude that one only has to get 25% oxygen saturation in the unfermented wort for optimal yeast reproduction, and that if one does not achieve this saturation point, the wort will still ferment to completion anyway (without a high final gravity ). This study, however, makes no mention of lag times... So I guess my question now is: What is 25% saturation and how do I get it with the least possible hassle? I am guessing that regularly aerated tap water will have at least 25% aeration if not much more than this, so the simple act of mixing tap water with cooled wort (which would have little aeration) would probably put me in the ballpark for max aeration. I think I have interpreted this study correctly, and, if I have not, Im sure Ill hear about it. :) -Paul Paul Sovcik U18183 at uicvm.uic.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1404, 04/21/94