HOMEBREW Digest #1413 Mon 02 May 1994

Digest #1412 Digest #1414

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  aeration (Jay Weissler)
  Stainless Steel Welding (Terri Terfinko)
  Seperate digests - NOT! (Tom Lyons)
  head retention (Tom Lyons)
  Wyeast 1968 / Propane (npyle)
  Ex-keg now kettle: poison interior coating? (Brett Charbeneau)
  More Water questions (braddw)
  Extracts/IM/long scrolls ("Glenace L. Melton")
  Separating HBD ("T.H. DeWitt")
  Splitting the Digest (David Draper)
  Alcohol content etc. (Phil Miller)
  Homebrewing in Vicksburg, MS (Terry Baldridge)
  Propane Leaks/ Open Fermenters/ Split my Bottom (COYOTE)
  extract and grain digests (Domenick Venezia)
  Diacytel reduction (ELTEE)
  Australia's best beer? (David Draper)
  wort chiller kit (BMFOGARTY)
  RE: Microbrew beer/extract vs. grain HBD/microbrewery (ST201811)
  SATB (ambroser)
  Implicit yeast library ? (Bart Thielges)
  Grain Cracking (Crushing) (Scott McLagan)
  Thread21.exe (Chris Kinney)
  your homebrew mailing list ("O HALLORAN,DEREK JOSEPH,MR")
  Buffer dilution (sbeu)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 29 Apr 94 13:11:28 -0500 From: jay_weissler at il.us.swissbank.com (Jay Weissler) Subject: aeration I've received a number of replies to my aeration posting. Many point out that unboiled water may be more polluted than the air (O2) used for oxygenating. They also point out that oxygen is necessary for yeast reproduction and a good ferment. No arguements here. Brewers who suffer from contaminated water, low pitching rates, etc. may feel that they benefit from aeration. I'll still stick with running the wort down the side of the carboy, but if you want to pump or do the Texas 2Step with your primary, well, whatever aerates your wort... Some pumpers pointed out that pumps should be shut down after about 2 hours of use. I don't know if this common knowledge based on some replies and on my own conversations with local (Chicago area) brew store owners and other brewers. Jeff Frane says: >You might also have sufficient extraneous microorganisms to spoil >your beer... Extract brewers doing a partial boil should make sure >that *all* the water they're using is pre-boiled... And the water >bureau makes that attempt with chlorine (sometimes lots of it), and >boiling helps drive off the chlorine. At least in Chicago and the North Shore tap water seems pretty good. (sufficient chlorine to keep contaminants down, while not high enough to create real problems of its own (my experience, anyone disagree?) May be it's the water, but I have to agree with Jack who I read as saying try it before you start manipulating. Yes, boiling kills contaminates and dechlorinates. It also de-oxygenates, causes precipitation of solids, effects pH, etc. which may may have to compensate for later. I don't know anyone who has ruined a batch because of tap water here. I know plenty (including me) who have ruined batches by messing with basically good water and 2 who attribute ruined batches to aerators. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 94 14:48:45 EDT From: terfintt at ttown.apci.com (Terri Terfinko) Subject: Stainless Steel Welding I am building a brew kettle from a stainless steel keg. I have never brazed or welded stainless and would like some advice. I will be attaching a brass nipple through a half inch hole to install the valve assembly at the bottom of the keg. I have experimented with soldering brass to stainless and to my surprise, it stuck. I was told that silver solder was the best way to fuse the connection. Will a butane torch create enough heat to work with silver solder? Would brazing with a brass rod work? What would be the down fall of using regular plumbing solder? Any advice on welding temperatures, techniques, materials would be appreciated. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 1994 06:17:16 -0700 (PDT) From: tlyons at netcom.com (Tom Lyons) Subject: Seperate digests - NOT! "Joan Donohue" <DONOHUE at darla.badm.scarolina.edu> writes: >I would like to make a suggestion that the beer digest be separated >into two parts: > 1. notes of interest to extract brewers, > 2. notes of interest to all grain brewers. >The homebrew digests are getting quite long and I would prefer to have >less to scroll through every day. I'd like to suggest that it not. I can't beleive that there is such a distinct dividing line between extract and all-grain brewing that anyone could make such a black-and-white distinction. In which digest would you post notes on hop utilization, for example? This is not a flame, just an opinion. For what it's worth, I brew both ways. I guess that makes me bi-fermentable. "Why can't we all just get along?" - Anonymous Tom Lyons - tlyons at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 1994 06:16:01 -0700 (PDT) From: tlyons at netcom.com (Tom Lyons) Subject: head retention rnarvaez at lan.mcl.bdm.com writes: >Well the waiting is all done and I opened my very >first bottle of homebrew last night and was quite disappointed. The beer >didn't have any type of head retention. There was good carbonation, >and a head did form but quickly disappeared. >My question is what should I do to increase the head retention in my >brew. First, congrats on the brew, even tho you were disappointed. Don't give up. I thought my first brew was pretty bad, too. In retrospect, it just needed some minor adjustments. Second, the problem *may* not be in the beer. One of the biggest head killers is the glassware the beer is poured into. ANY soap film, grease, water or other foreign substance in your glass will kill your head dead like Raid. I might be making light (not "lite") of your problem, but pouring beer into substandard glassware was one of my early faux pas. Folks often refer to a properly cleaned glass as being "beer clean", meaning there is nothing inherent in the mug that will shoot head retention down in flames. Well cleaned, well rinsed, and well dried glassware will squeak when rubbed with a (clean) finger. Hard, clear plastic cups are preferable to unclean glassware, BTW, and are standard issue in many beer tastings. Keep on brewing! Tom Lyons - tlyons at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 94 12:06:09 MDT From: npyle at n33.ecae.stortek.com Subject: Wyeast 1968 / Propane Mark Evans asks about the new Wyeast 1968. I've used it for two batches and I know Jeff Frane has used it for at least one. Here's my experience with it: Batch #1 was a bitter fermented around 63F. The OG was 1.045, and the FG was below 1.010 (it was 1.010 after a week - and the beer was crystal clear at this point, didn't check SG after that). I kegged the beer after two weeks of fermentation and it had a very noticeable diacetyl component for at least two weeks after that. Since the stuff flocculates so well I decided that it had dropped out a little early at this temperature and vowed to ferment it hotter the next time. The diacetyl was below my taste threshold within a couple more weeks, but by then the beer was almost gone (obviously the diacetyl didn't harm the drinkability too much!). Batch #2 was a big brown ale fermented around 67F. The yeast was reused from the dregs in the keg of bitter. The OG was 1.060 and the SG was 1.014 a week later at racking. There was no noticeable diacetyl in this batch, though the toasted malt flavor dominates, so it wouldn't be as obvious. This batch is still in the secondary, but it has acted very normal in terms of attenuation. ** Bryan Gros asks about propane leaks, storage, etc. I had a leaky valve in an old tank I bought at a garage sale. It turns out it is practically cheaper to replace the entire tank than to fix the valve. I don't know what's the best way to store the tanks, but if you can do it outside, I'm sure that is preferred. BTW, I get much more than 4 batches out of a 20# tank of propane. It is hard to say, since I use the same propane tanks for grill, camper, and brewing, but it is definitely better than your experience. Cheers, Norm = npyle at n33.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Apr 94 18:19:12 From: bwchar at mail.wm.edu (Brett Charbeneau) Subject: Ex-keg now kettle: poison interior coating? Gang, I just received my BCI-converted 15.5-gallon stainless steel keg with the top cut out - very nice. But... Thinking to myself that this thing has never been used to COOK things in, and may be coated with something to make sterlization easier at the plant, made me realize that firing it up right out of the box may not be particularly prudent. It's an old AB keg - says so on the bottom. Should I prepare it somehow before using it to boil wort? I'd really appreciate hearing from somebody who's had some experience with this sort of thing. Thanks loads! Brett Charbeneau Beer Geek Wannabe in Williamsburg, Virginia P.S. For those thinking about it, the BCI converted keg is a pretty cool deal for $50. The lid to my 10-gallon Vollrath fits on it perfectly and the keg fits my Cajun Cooker like it was made for it. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri Apr 29 16:08:57 1994 From: braddw at rounder.rounder.com Subject: More Water questions In Table #7 on page #55 of Noonan's "Brewing Lager Beer" he cites the "Estimate Character" brewing waters from Pilsen, Dortmund, Munich and Vienna. Does anyone out there know where I can find similar breakdowns of waters suitable for the brewing of dark ales such as Porters, Brown Ales, and or Stouts? Here is a general analysis of my tap water as it came from the local water authority. All measurements in ppm. Ca 3.2 Mg 0.8 Na 10.1 SO4 7.9 HCO3 ???? Cl 15.0 PH 8.8* (WOW !!!) Color 10.0 Turbidity .49 Total Hardness as CaCO3 14.0 Total Dissolved Solids (Spec. Conductance in Micromhos/cm at 25 Deg C) 84.0 * PH adjustment mad with caustic soda. (what does that mean?!?!?) Questions. 1) What should I do to bring the PH down for the mash? How far? Around 7? 2) How should I harden my water? With Gypsum? Will This help mw with question #1? 3) Will pre-boiling the water help me lower the color? (particles in colloidal suspension?) 4) What should I do with ths water to brew the dark ales that I love so much. Private e-mail is welcome. Overwhelmed by Water, Bradd Wheeler. (braddw at rounder.com) Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Apr 94 16:01:01 EDT From: "Glenace L. Melton" <71242.2275 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Extracts/IM/long scrolls HBD 1411 and the couple of previous ones brought up several topics that have been bugging me. 1. EXTRACTS: Why wait for the producers to publish their extract contents? One might ask the chemists in the crowd, or AHA members, or anyone else to send in results such as: specific gravity of the extract (it varies from 1.30 to 1.37 or more), fermentability (sugars/dextrines), hop alpha acid concentration of hopped extracts, etc. These results could be kept in a running file. 2. IRISH MOSS: J. Schmidling's note about the trouble with IM when using his Easy Masher/Sparger prompts the following: Back in the stone age of homebrewing, about 1936-1956, when I first started this insane hobby, if finings or a clarifying agent such as gelatine were used at all it was added just before bottling. What we produced then tasted terrible, but was usually clear. Since I resumed brewing I have made 4 partial mashes and one full-grain mash and in every case added rehydrated Irish Moss during the last 15 minutes of the boil. This has produced sludge (now called trub) galore, but has not aided clarification in the bottle at all, so far as I can tell. On the other hand, racking is greatly hampered because of clogging of the tube etc., and I haven't noticed that it enhances the hot break, which happens before the IM is added. When and why did the practice of adding IM near the end of the boil begin? I should think it should be added with the priming; it's the beer in the bottles you want to clear. 3. LONG SCROLLS: I, too, find only a small part of the daily HBD if sufficient interest to save for further reference. However, I intend to do both extract and all-grain brewing so I would not prefer a split on that dichotomy. A lot of questions are answered in readily available books or quotes from them; the Editor ("janitor") might simply have a few stock replies that would take care of these inquiries. I also think that personal vendettas could be carried out by private e-mail or more effectively on the field of honor with over-primed bottle grenades. [END] Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 1994 14:09:10 -0700 (PDT) From: "T.H. DeWitt" <DEWITT at pebvax.new.epa.gov> Subject: Separating HBD I strongly disagree w/ J. Donohue's suggestion to separate the digest into 2 parts. I enjoy reading about both styles of brewing, although I have only tried the extract method. Many of the discussions are pertinent to both approaches, and much of the info. on all-grain brewing is relevant to extract brewing. I suspect you will find many others with a similar opinion. If you want to reduce your reading, save the daily HBD to file on your PC, use a word processor to find each occurance of "extract", and constrain your reading to those articles. Ted DeWitt Hatfield Marine Science Center Oregon State Univ. Newport, OR email: dewitt at pebvax.new.epa.gov "To err is human, to blame someone else is more human" - Unknown Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 1994 08:09:34 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au> Subject: Splitting the Digest Whud id iz: In HBD #1411, Joan Donohue suggests splitting the digest into extract and all-grain sections. I would like to voice my opposition to this idea, for several reasons. First, from a practical standpoint, it would probably be more work for Rob Gardner--he does enough already. And there would inevitably be instances where a poster would be uncertain to which section his/her contribution belonged (e.g. comments on sanitation, yeast strains, kegging, fermentation and water chemistry,...), with the possible result that the poster might decide to post to both. Bandwidth, bandwidth, bandwidth! Second, from a more idealistic standpoint, my personal view is that both extractors and allgrainers can learn from the postings originating in both types of technique (and partial mashers too of course). I have posted my thoughts on this quite recently. The digest gets very divisive anyway from time to time, unfortunately, and I would very much not like to see that furthered in any way. Yes, the digest takes some time to read every day, but for my money, it is time exceptionally well spent, despite the flaming draff that crops up so often. Finally, splitting the digest would probably result in extractors who have an interest in eventually going allgrain (of which I am one) getting less "incentive" to do so, because they would not be exposed to the allgrain "HBD literature". The only solution I can see to Joan's dilemma is for posters to try to be as descriptive as they possibly can in their subject lines, so that readers can simply skip things that they know they will have no interest in. I would guess that most readers of HBD, after getting used to the format and becoming familiar with our most-frequent contributors, will be able to "see coming", for example, a newbie problem that they don't want to bother reading, or part of a flame fest that they don't want to waste time with. That's what I do, anyway. Just my two copper pennies. - -- ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia Fax: +61-2-805-8428 Voice: +61-2-805-8347 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 94 15:28:36 CDT From: Phil Miller <C616063 at MIZZOU1.missouri.edu> Subject: Alcohol content etc. I am a relatively new homebrewer with three "kits" under his belt. I have had troubl getting much alcohol content out of my batches (pale ale, amber maerzen (quite tasty but no kick), and brown ale). By much I mean less than 2.5% ac- cording to the hydrometer. I have been using a plastic 6 gal. fermenting bucket and have not been doing secondary fermenting (what is this secondary fermenting? It is not on the recipes from James Page). How long should I ferment the batch to get a good alcohol yield, and how much should I expect out of the brews I've made? When is the proper time I should pitch the yeast. Any advice from the pros or the experienced amateur will be given a cheer and drink of my "Miller" LA. Also, when doing mail-order, is Minneapolis-to-Columbia, Mo. too far to send brew kits? In winter it was fine as the kits arrived cold, but will this be the case this wet summer? And finally, what are the benefits to using plastic buckets vs. glass carboys for fermentation? Thanks, Phil Miller c616063 at mizzou1.missouri.edu (It sure is wet here!!!!!! Good homebrew weather!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 94 14:51:12 CDT From: Terry Baldridge <XP2729%LSUVM.BITNET at uga.cc.uga.edu> Subject: Homebrewing in Vicksburg, MS I shall soon be leaving my humble position here at LSU and moving to Vicksburg. I seem to remember seeing at least one person from the waterways experiment station posting to the Home Brew Digest. I would appreciate it if any Vicksburg area brewers would get in touch with me. Email xp2729 at lsuvm.sncc.lsu.edu or terry.baldridge at launchpad.unc.edu Thanks, terry Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 1994 15:17:08 -0600 (MDT) From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu> Subject: Propane Leaks/ Open Fermenters/ Split my Bottom Just want to thank all the folks who forwarded the posts on modifying hunter airstats. I ended up with several copies (SO DON'T SEND MORE!). You're good people. I toast in you general directions. Now I just gotta go screw with the thing! *** Bryan asked about Leaky Propane- as to whether it's a problem. Yes- it potentially can be. There are preventative measures: Take your attachment points apart- add silicon joint tape. Test your connections when the gas line is turned on by dripping a soapy solution. If you have bubbles, you have leaks (works for CO2 2) Get a cap for your tank. Disconnect the tank from the stove when not in use. Bleed all pressure out of the stove lines for storage. Attach cap to tank. problems at the time, so I thought it might just have been smelly sewage. (stinky stuff- ) Then I realized that the dispo tank had ice on it. Hence I tracked the leak, and went OUTSIDE for a smoke! I had my little coleman camping stove (not the coyote cooker) to a dispo propane tank, and for no apparent reason it started leaking. We were having sewer prolems at the time Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 1994 09:05:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: extract and grain digests Joan Donohue in HBD #1411 suggests that the HBD be separated into to digests, one for extract brewing and one for grain brewing. I for one think this is a VERY, VERY BAD idea. I personally know a wide spectrum of homebrewers and the things I learn about all types of brewing get passed along. Some of the most helpful things I've learned from the HBD were by accident. They weren't mentioned in the subject lines and/or were "asides" and were only found because I was perusing everything. There are many many topics that are common to both types of brewing - two digests would duplicate a lot of effort. And frankly the most knowlegable particiants are grain brewers so the extract brewers would probably get the short end of the stick. In no way putting my self into the knowledgable catagory, I for one would forgo the extract edition. To Joan's statement that the HBDs are getting quite long: This is simply incorrect. The HBD is limited in length (hey, that's why there's a post queue) and they are ALWAYS (except Sundays) about 45-47KB long. Also splitting the digest would not yield two digests of half the length. Like disk usage that always expands to consume all available space posting would grow and you would end up with two digests at the length limit. Treat the HBD like a quiet (unless Jack and Kinney are at it again - which I really enjoy - thanks guys, I love you too *<SMACK>*) cup of tea or coffee and enjoy and revel in the 10 or 15 minute respite from the chaos that is otherwise our lives to peruse the HBD. Joan, it is a priviledge and a pleasure to have access to such an incredible wealth of brewing knowledge (you can actually communicate with luminaries, none of whom I'll mention for fear of leaving some out). Relax, don't rush through the HBD because you have a million things to do. Take it as a small personal indulgence. Domenick Venezia ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 1994 06:52:22 -0400 (EDT) From: ELTEE at delphi.com Subject: Diacytel reduction I recently made a German Pilsener using Wyeast Bohemian Lager yeast (if memory serves). It fermented at about 45F for two weeks before I racked. At that time it had a slight diacetyl taste. The temp warmed up so it was about 55F in the secondary for 2 1/2 weeks. When I bottled the diacetyl taste was about the same. After another 3 weeks I opened one up and it was undrinkable due to diacetyl. Will this go away at warmer temps? The weather has been unseasonably warm and my beer is at about 60F right now. I made an ale last winter that did the same thing but it sat at 45F in the bottle for a month before it went away. Is warmer or colder temps better for getting rid of it? TIA hoppy brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 1994 23:17:46 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au> Subject: Australia's best beer? Whud id iz: I was just trolling through some old HBDs, and in #834 there was a posting by Charlie Papazian about his trip to Australia. Turns out that the first beer he sampled was at the homebrew shop I now frequent (the proprietor Mel proudly showed me his autographed copy of NCJOHB, and guess what the inscription said? "Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!"). Anyway, in his post CP mentioned he'd had one of the best bocks he'd tasted anywhere in the world, made by Scharer's, at a place called Picton about 90 min outside Sydney. Well, they have opened a pub right in downtown Sydney, and I've had the chance to give it a try and boy old CP wasn't kidding. They make just two beers, the bock and and amber lager, and pride themselves on brewing using strictly Bavarian materials and techniques. They also pride themselves on eschewing the perennial pub fixtures like sports cable TV, fruit machines (more-or-less slot machines), and beers from the big boys. A very wonderful atmosphere and some of the best beer I've ever had anywhere. Beer-oriented visitors to Sydney CANNOT miss it. It's in the Rocks part of town, 100 Cumberland St. in the shadow of the southern end of the Harbour Bridge. Usual disclaimer, just a mind-boggled customer. Cheers, Dave in Sydney - -- ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia Fax: +61-2-805-8428 Voice: +61-2-805-8347 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 1994 10:10:07 -0400 (EDT) From: BMFOGARTY at delphi.com Subject: wort chiller kit Because of the generally agreed upon "need" for a good wort chiller, I have put together a kit to enable homebrewers to construct one at home with the simplest of tools (screwdriver and pliers) and very little time. I put the kit together after experimenting with chillers at home in my "brewery". When I finally got it right, I decided others might like to put it together and use it. I priced it as reasonably as I could. If you are interested in details on the kit, (where you can get it, how it works, etc) please send me private email to bmfogarty at delphi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 94 11:37:13 EDT From: ST201811 at BROWNVM.BROWN.EDU Subject: RE: Microbrew beer/extract vs. grain HBD/microbrewery Ronald Narvaez asked about getting microbrew beer through the mail in #1412. T he magazine Beer, the Magazine vol 2 no 1 (still on newstands I think) has a wh ole article on this. SOme of the places listed are: Microbrew Express:$15.95 a month; 2246 Calle del Mundo (+tax and SH) Santa Clara CA 95054 415-493-2992 Microbrew to You:$21.95 a month; 428 E. Campell Ave.. (inclusive) Campell CA 95008 800-347-8532 or 408-379-0500 International Beer Club:$20 (inc); 800-854-4903 Beer Across America:$14.95/mo +Tax&SH; 740 Industrial Drive Unit G. Carry Ill 60013 800-854-BEER or 708-639-2337 Beers 2 You:$12.95 for 2 4 packs $14.95 for 2 6 packs (both +tax&SH); 135 West Wells Suite 440 Milwaukee Wis 53203 800-323-BEER or 414-223-4181 Brew to You:$20 instate $22 out (both inc); Box 1565 Woodstock Ill 60098 800-800-BREW Gourmet Beer Society: 43984-C Rancho Way Temecula CA 92590 800-777-0740 or 909-676-2337 I'm not sure how good these are as I've never tried. Check it out.. ***** I'd say keep the HBD as is and don't separate extract from all grain. I learn a lot from both and I hope others do too. ***** How cool would it be to start a microbrewery? How hard is it? I'll be graduat ing from college in less than a year and have no desire to be an academic, whic h is unfortunately what my "major" has left as only route (mathematical physics / logic and philosophy of science). I'm much more interested in starting a micr obrewery or brewpub. Any info can be sent private email to st201811 at brownvm.bro wn.edu. --Peace and love and happy brewing--Jason Pastorius Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 1994 12:11:50 -0400 From: ambroser at apollo.dml.georgetown.edu Subject: SATB SJK%DEV.decnet WROTE: .....that SA had no plans to remake the stuff because it was costing them "over $100 a barrel"..... If my calculation is correct that is (very roughly) about $1.00 for a 16oz bottle. Have you seen SA in big bottles? It's generally $2.99 for 22oz. No, sorry, I don't believe that cost is a "real" reason why they may stop making it (even though it's not available yet). Disclaimer: My "argument" is aimed at the SA tour guide, not specifically the writer of the HBD article. Return to table of contents
From: ulick at ulix.cheg.nd.edu id m0pxIhg-0006LXC; Sat, 30 Apr 94 12:19 EST Message-Id: <m0pxIhg-0006LXC at ulix> Date: Sat, 30 Apr 94 12:19 EST From: ulick at ulix.cheg.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Subject: water shortage, etc. I have been a little amused at some of the posts to do with water lately. While people who live in deserts must conserve water, where water is abundant one must assess the cost, and it is likely that water is cheaper than recyling methods. Here I pay $1.60 for 100 cubic feet of water which is about 3 cubic meters. I don't worry about conserving water (except that they assess the sewage charge to an extent on water usage and that is a little more). I'd imagine Great Western have calculated their water cost, and isn't it nice to know that purchased malt has been well washed? I'm interested in how people find the average brewpub as a place to drink. I don't mean the beer. Most reports on brewpubs naturally concentrate on the beer, but I'm interested in the service and atmosphere. There is a brewpub in town here, that to my mind leaves a lot to be desired. I had another run in with the staff the other day and will never go back. Perhaps it's my grating personality, but I drink in many places and have not had similar problems elsewhere (this side of the Atlantic). But I do know many people who say they were in this brewpub ONCE. I only wnet there lately becasue a homebrewer friend lives walking distance from the place. Speaking of brewpubs - a new one, Dusters, has opened recently in Lawton, MI, about an hour north of South Bend. Lawton is a small town of <2000 people, but the place was quite busy the Saturday I was there. It doesn't sell food and is a beautiful old brick building and is done up very well in an old fashioned sort of way. Two of the three beers were excellent, the red and wheat, while the brown was so-so. They had a Jazz band out of South Bend playing there, whcih was nice, and a touch which is sadly missing from the nearby brewpub. It is a pity it is too far away for regular visits, but I highly recommend it to anyone who passes through southwestern Michigan. There is a place right opposite it, whose name escapes me now, that is a restaurant with around 180 different beers. It is very similar to another establishment in Southwestern Michigan - Zeke's in Dowiagac. __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at ulix.cheg.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 94 12:56 CDT From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: LEAD AND THE EASYMASHER The media hype about lead, brass and drinking water seems to have been just that. I sent samples of tap water and beer made with an EM to a test lab and the report shows no measurable difference in the lead levels. It is useful to note that the beer sent was pretty much a worst case. It was mashed, boiled and fermented for two weeks in kettles with EASYMASHERS installed. The actual numbers in the report were: Tap water ... .006 PPM Beer ... <.010 PPM Due to the complexity of the beer they had to measure it on a higher range and the resolution was only 10 PPB. As a result, they can only say it is undetectable or less than ten. Had they measured the water the same way, they would have gotten the same result. The EPA "Action Level" for lead in drinking water is 15 PPB. I think anyone with an EM or any other piece of brewing equipment with small brass parts can relax...... etc. However, as I do not want to tangle with the EPA's job program for lawyers, starting in about a week, EM's will be passivated with an FDA approved nickel plating. The bad news is the price will have to go up a bit to cover the additonal cost. >From: Jay Hersh <hersh at x.org> >Hmm, Jack I've used Irish Moss for years, never a problem. Of course your problem seems to have nothing to do with the actual effectiveness of the stuff to attract out haze forming matter, but with your systems set up. This just seems to demonstrate inexperience with what Irish Moss is and how it works. Do I hear an echo? I believe I opened and closed my comments with thoughts to that effect. I simply reported my experience for what it was worth. >You mentioned a mountain of crud, so I wonder how much you used. Sounds like you wrote your response after reading the title of my article. I clearly stated that I used 2 tbs in a 10 gal batch. >Instructions on the IM I purchase say 1/2 tsp 30 minutes prior to the end of the boil for 5 gallons. Right but Oracle II has suggested that this is far too little for best results so I increased my use substantially. For what it is worth, the instructions on the stuff I purchased said 1 tbs per 5 gal and that is what I used. >Your problems stem mostly from the nature of your system. Passing your post boil wort through siphon hoses, or fine mesh screens, tubes and/or pumps may not lend itself well to use of Irish Moss. Another echo? > Me I simply pour my wort through a strainer set into the oversize funnel I place on top of my carbouy. Pouring 10 gals through a strainer is not my idea of a very elegant way of doing things. Besides all the hours of settling are lost by mushing it all up again and all you strain out is the IM and what have you accomplished? >The IM does collect in the strainer but what colects is hardly a mountain of crud which makes me suspect you've used too much. Or perhaps your method only removes the expanded IM and little else making the whole process an exercise in futility. >While Irish Moss may not lend itself well to your technique I myself would not think a blanket denunciation is in order. Don't recall making any such denunciation. You really should read more than the title of my article before you make such off the wall comments. >From: malodah at pbgueuze.scrm2700.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl) >The AHA sells 7 full-color pages of ads in every Zymurgy issue, and six of them are generally bought by purveyors of extracts. That fact alone has long caused me to doubt that they'd ever seriously address the extract question, and the fact that they'd even go this far surprises me greatly. By turning the preparation of the worts over to a homebrew club, though, they've created the possibility for enough inconsistency for the makers of the extracts to later claim that the results aren't valid.... Delighted to hear you say that. This is exactly what Zymurgy has done with the grain mill evaluation and the reason I declined to participate voluntarily. I think it is totally inept to turn such evaluations over to homebrew clubs and then publish the data as if it were official AHA findings. I protested vociferously but was ignored and you can bet there will be smoke when the article is published no matter who comes out on top. My guess is they will water it down to the level that it contains no useful information or worse yet, misleading information. From a more pratical point, it seems a bit bizarre to pit advertisers against each other in a trade journal. As the maker of the Rolls Royce, I certainly have no objections to doing it as long as it is objective and accurate. The only way to assure objectivity and accuracy is through qualified, professional testing services with no interest, personal or financial, in the outcome. Just for the record, I have no objection to clubs doing this sort of thing and publishing the results in their newsletters and computer networks. What I object to is the organ of the AHA publishing a second hand report that has the appearance of AHA sanction. js Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 94 13:53:57 PDT From: hpfcla.fc.hp.com!relay.hp.com!daver!nexgen!bart (Bart Thielges) Subject: Implicit yeast library ? It just occurred to me that if HBDers are getting good results by inoculating their batches with yeast cultured from commercial beers like Sierra Nevada and Belgian ales, why not do the same with our own homebrews ? Yes, I realize that storing yeast cultures as sludge at the bottom of a 12 ounce beer is not nearly as optimal as using agar slants. However, the advantage is that no extra work need be done in order to maintain this yeast library. I think we all know that yeast from a bottle of beer may potentially contain a mutant strain of the original yeast and that this is best done with lower etOH beers, so I don't want to spark that discussion. What I am interested in are the two things : 1) First hand experiences with reculturing yeast from your own beer, especially if it resulted in a bad batch which could directly be traced to the yeast. 2) Specific recommendations and guidelines (as in "don't try this with Wyeast Irish Ale" or "taste the beer from which the culture was drawn") Bart bart at nexgen.com <---- Use this address instead of return address Brewing equipment destroyed since last message : 0 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 1994 17:49:50 PDT From: Scott McLagan <smclagan at schdist43.bc.ca> Subject: Grain Cracking (Crushing) Greetings to All. Much thanks to all who responded to my question about grain crushing methods. To refresh your mind, I was asking how to crush the grain without squirting it all over the kitchen with the rolling pin. The vast majority of people suggested a simple but effective modification to my technique: put the grains in a large ziploc back before putting the rolling pin in gear. Another interesting suggestion (from Aaron Shaw) was to use a food processor with the grating disk attachment. I haven't tried this yet but I think it would be much better than my coffee grinder which turns the grains to flour. However, the "wake up and smell the homebrew award" goes collectively to Ronald Narvaez, Renee Peloquin, and Mattie Nic Herriges, who all suggested that I check the supply store for a customer-use mill. Lordy! Will you look at that! Right beside the bags of grain, bolted to the counter, was a hand-operated mill. Cheers, and thanks to all. Scott McLagan (smclagan at schdist43.bc.ca) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 1 May 1994 00:14:20 -0600 (MDT) From: Chris Kinney <cak7887 at silver.sdsmt.edu> Subject: Thread21.exe Hello, I downloaded thread21.* and I am trying to get something out of it. I was wondering if anybody out there has tried to use this program, as it seems it would be a great help for me. I am having problems with it searching the files. The output says that it tried to search the first file in the directory, but it seems as though it isn't even going through the list of files in the directory, or just the next file for that matter. I am pretty sure that I am following all of the documentation correctly, and don't know what to do from here! Any help would be appreciated! Chris cak7887 at silver.sdsmt.edu or just posting would be fine. Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 01 May 1994 08:34:53 -0400 (EDT) From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: Portland, Oregon Hi all (of Y'all), I will be travelint to Portland, Oregon for the Environmental Mutagen Society Meeting from May 7 through about May 13. I would appreciate info. on brew pubs, micros., brew tours in the area, or a possible meeting with fellow homebrewers. To save bandwidth, please use e-mail at: kligerman%am%herlvx at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov or homebre973 at aol.com Thanks, Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 02 May 94 00:19:04 EDT From: "O HALLORAN,DEREK JOSEPH,MR" <B2A1 at MUSICB.MCGILL.CA> Subject: your homebrew mailing list Dear homebrew mailing list types, I, as an avid homebrewer, stumbled upon your mailing list and would very much like to become an active member of your group. I have been home- brewing for a couple of years now and am very interested in learning all I can about the art and science of homebrewing and also in sharing any recipes or information I have learned or found out accidentally.. I look forward to joining your group and will anxiously await all/any information regarding my favourite hobby... thank you Derek O'Halloran Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 02 May 94 02:53:12 EDT From: sbeu at aol.com Subject: Buffer dilution As a chemist, I could not resist responding to D. S. Cummings' posting in HBD#1412 regarding effects of dilution on buffer solution pH. There he "beg(s) to differ" with the contention of CARLSON at GVSU.EDU that dilution of a buffer solution will not change the pH. While Cummings is correct is the definition of pH, he is mistaken in his understanding of the chemistry of a buffer solution. A buffer system is established by the solution equilibrium existing between a weak acid or base and it's salt. Such a solution will resist changes in pH caused by the addition of a small amount of acid or base by reacting with the added compound in such a way as to maintain the hydrogen ion concentration. Buffers will likewise resist changes in pH due to dilution because the pH is principly fixed by the concentration ratio of the buffer pair. The value of this ratio is unchanged upon dilution as both components of the system are diluted by the same factor. It should be noted that an important feature of a buffer system is the buffer capacity. This is essentially a measure of how much acid or base can be added to a buffer before the pH changes sustantially. Most simple buffer solutions have a relatively small capacity and thus one should take care to avoid exceeding it. As explained above, buffers are much more forgiving of simple dilution with "pure" water. However, to the extent that the water contains dissolved salts and other compounds affecting ionic equilibria, this dilution capacity is reduced. It is wise to experiment with your particular buffer solution to determine its capacity with respect to the demands of your intended application. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1413, 05/02/94