HOMEBREW Digest #1416 Thu 05 May 1994

Digest #1415 Digest #1417

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Beerfest in Arcata CA (John Millar)
  Size of the market (nr706)
  brewpub info wanted ("Mark Merchant")
  Help with a BIG KEG.... (Jack Skeels)
  Priming With Cane Sugar (WKODAMA)
  beginning to brew (Herstl)
  spices (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  More Water questions (Jay Weissler)
  CTSP vs Clorine & TSP and other ramblings ("Mark B. Alston")
  party pigs / where to put that carboy (LLAPV)
  Re: Sweet Homebrewed Beverages ("Mark B. Alston")
  Re: Wyeast Problems (John Shepardson)
  Wyeast questions (t_aylesworth)
  Easymasher and Irish Moss (wyatt)
  Wasted space? (jim robinson)
  re:Sparkling cider, kegging (MBige.Roch817)
  Hot Liquor Tank (Terri Terfinko)
  American Micro Brews (Kevin Pratt)
  Hard vs. Soft H2O (FSAC-FCD) <dward at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  RE: Wyeast Hangover (Jim Dipalma)
  Honey Priming (efrainm)
  Beginners Strange Brews (Doug Lukasik)
  Barleywine yeast (Jeff Frane)
  Thermostat for heat & cool (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Mashing Breakfast Cereal ("Palmer.John")
  Chest Freezers (MRS1)
  scotch ale in decline (Mark Youman)
  corking sparkling cider (Henry E Kilpatrick)
  firestone kegs (Eugene Sonn)
  Barley in the Ancient Near East (Steven W. Schultz )

Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 3 May 1994 10:02:27 -0700 (PDT) From: jmillar at netcom.com (John Millar) Subject: Beerfest in Arcata CA I heard through the grapevine that there is a beer festival in Arcata, CA on the weekend of May 15th. Has anyone else heard of this festival and does anyone know where to get more info? Also, I'm always interested in visiting microbreweries and brewpubs. I'd love to hear from anyone who knows of some great brews! Reply to jmillar at netcom.com Thanks, John Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 03 May 94 13:16:04 EDT From: nr706 at aol.com Subject: Size of the market Julio C Rojas asked: ...help me quantify the size of the domestic (U.S.) homebrew market... Haven't checked it myself, but you might see if MRI or SMRB has that info ... my experience has been that their market size estimates aren't great, but it could be a start. Also, have you tried calling Siebel (the brewing institute) on West Peterson? Finally, if none of that yields much, you might try some cheap research, an NFO panel or something. If all else fails, try making assumptions and testing 'em ... it's amazing how much you can figure out that way. NR706 at aol.com <--- a marketing services supplier, also in Evanston Return to table of contents
Date: 3 May 1994 14:08:50 U From: "Mark Merchant" <Mark_Merchant at gatormail.wi.mit.edu> Subject: brewpub info wanted HBDR's, I am fairly new to the homebrew digest and have found it to be a very useful source of information with regards to brewing and beer drinking in general. I am going to be doing some traveling soon and thought that I would try to get a list of interesting brewpubs, breweries, and the like to visit when on vacation. I am going to be in the following areas: Long Island, NY; Phoenix, AZ (and possibly in Mexico and surronding regions); Seattle, WA (and possibly in Canada or nearby areas). I know of some places like Bandersnatches (???) in Phoenix and I've heard that brewpubs are fairly common in Seattle. I was also interested in visiting a malting company someone mentioned recently that is near Seattle or possbily in Canada??? Any info that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -Mark Merchant Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 May 94 13:46 EST From: Jack Skeels <0004310587 at mcimail.com> Subject: Help with a BIG KEG.... Greetings, and please advise, A friend of mine has told me that he has two 1/2-bbl kegs (15.5 gal). they are both the type that has a protective(?) rim on both ends, the top has handle cut-outs, and they appear to be SS. The tap consists of a twist-lock handle unit. The valve in the keg can be removed with only slight ingenuity. It looks like you fill and dispense from the same general opening; fill with the valve removed, and dispense with the valve in place and the tap attached. Is there a name for this type of keg? I told him that the *only* way that I could brew a batch that large was to convert one of the kegs to a brew pot ;-) He said okay! I read in a previous post that a circular saw with the appropos blade will work to cut the top off; tho my now-best-pal-in-the-world wants to use his cutting torch. Question #1: Should we cut, rather than melt, to reduce embrittlement? Question #2: Is this the right "kind" of keg to convert? My guess is yes, as the bottom protective ring looks like it would tend to hold the flame in rather nicely. As far as actually brewing the batch, I'll be doing a partial mash, and will top off the batch with some water (as I can't boil more than about 14 gals I think). Is there somebody who can give me a few pointers as to how to do this whole thing? Like, is there some easy way to ferment the batch as a whole? Can I use the keg somehow? I'm really excited at this opportunity, but really scared of hosing a $50+ batch of beer. Any and all replies will be appreciated. If I get a nice set of information, I will put a BIG KEG INFO file on the archives. TIA and happy brewing, JACK SKEELS JSKEELS at MCIMAIL.COM "Say NO to the balkanization of HBD!" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 03 May 1994 09:48:32 -0400 From: WKODAMA at aba.com Subject: Priming With Cane Sugar A couple of weeks ago Jeff Frane posted about priming with cane and brown sugars as alternatives to the usual corn sugar. Last night I cracked open a bottle of East Kent Goldings ale I primed with cane sugar. Great carbonation; thick, frothy head; and head retention all the way to the bottom of the glass. And, if I may say so myself, great taste (no, there wasn't any dreaded sugary cidery lurking in there either). If one can speak after only one batch, I would recommend cane sugar as a primer. Wesman wkodama at aba.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 May 94 16:06:00 EST From: Herstl <herstl.psych at office.mmc.org> Subject: beginning to brew can you please help me get started with some info about the home brewing process. i promised some friends that I would bring my own to their next October Fest. Many thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 May 94 16:16:39 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: spices I guess because it's not a brewing magazine, Randy couldn't include his usual advice on actually USING spices in making beer. The method that I remember for easily spicing beer, and adjusting the quantity goes like this: Steep some of the spice in a pint of vodka for a week. Then pour a measured amount of your ready-to-be-bottled beer into a glass and start adding the spice tincture a drop or two at a time, until you've got the desired spicing level. Then scale up the amount to 5 gallons and add that amount to your whole batch. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 May 94 15:25:04 -0500 From: jay_weissler at il.us.swissbank.com (Jay Weissler) Subject: More Water questions Bradd Wheeler. asks >Does anyone out there know where I can find similar breakdowns of waters... Hopes this helps. Measures should be ppm Ion Pilsen Munich Dublin Dortmund Burton Ca 7 70-80 115-120 260 260-352 SO4 5-6 5-10 54 283 630-820 Mg 2-8 18 4 23 24-60 Na 32 10 12 69 54 Cl 5 1-2 19 106 16-36 (H)CO3 Nitrates THM pH Ion Milwaukee Halifax Dartmouth London Winnetka Ca 35 13 4.3 52 34.8 SO4 18 10 2.8 77 113 Mg 11 0.6 0.01 16 10.7 Na ? 4 3.8 99 5.2 Cl 5 6.7 8.6 11 (H)CO3 28 3 156 113 Nitrates 0.05 0.05 0.27 THM 0.05 ? pH ? 6.2 7.9 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 May 94 14:47:42 MDT From: "Mark B. Alston" <c-amb at math.utah.edu> Subject: CTSP vs Clorine & TSP and other ramblings First my question: I am quite confused about the differences between using CTSP (clorinated Tri Sodium Phosphate) and straight Clorine bleach with TSP. I have read in many sources that bleach will corrode stainless steel but that CTSP is much safer. Why? Is it simply a matter of lower concentrations of clorine in CTSP than most homebrewers use straight? Moreover, I have heard that the chemical manufactures use stainless steel vats to make their products in. So, what exactly is the deal with clorine. Can I really use CTSP safely on my stainless kegs. I know that alternatives exist such as Idophor but I have just purchased a 0.5 Micron filter system and am trying to figure out the best way to sanitize it. (Please no anti-filter comments, I have never used one myself and don't need to hear the advice of others who have also not used one. I belive that one should try everything before writing it off.) I can't use boiling water (my favorite method, it's soo cheap :) and am worried about using Iodine because of the staining which will occur. The method suggested to me from Cliff at Braukunst is to force a solution of CTSP through it and into the dispensing keg to clean and sanitize the whole works. But, I am nervous about using a clorinated product in my kegs. Any info from those using a filtering system will be appreciated. Now some general blabering: **** We have heard plenty of good reasons about why we shouldn't split the hbd but I would like to add my voice to this. DON'T SPLIT THE HBD!!! **** I have recently started fermenting in stainless steel kegs. I *love* it. You don't have to worry about keeping it out of the light. Racking it from the fermenter to the dispensing keg is simple and does not require siphoning. And I can get my hand down into the keg to scrub it out. Much easier than using a bottling brush on a glass carboy. One suggestion I would make to those thinking about such a setup is to not cutoff the end of the out tube from the fermenter. Simply get youself a brass endcap and a short piece of tubing and make a capped tube about 1.5" long. Then file some V shaped groves on the bottom of the out tube and place the brass tube over the out tube in the bottom of your keg as seen in this sidways ascii drawing: ___________ ________________________ | ________________________<| __________| The V groves allow the beer to flow when the cap gets sucked onto the tube and the 1.5" tube keeps you from sucking up the yeast which has settled on the bottom of the fermenter. In this way you can still use the keg as a serving vessel by simply removing the brass tube. Using a cutoff tube relegates that keg to always being a fermenter. For more info read the Gadgets special issue of Zymurgy or email me with your questions. ***** Finally, how many of us are going to Denver for the conference? I registered on the last day of the reduced prices (April 29). I am looking forward to it and am wondering if there will be many hbd'ers there. ***** Enough for now, Another Mark brewing behind the Zion curtain. Mark Alston (c-amb at math.utah.edu) P.S. my damn spell checker is screwed up. So pardon all my mistspelings Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, 3 May 94 15:50:29 CST From: LLAPV at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu Subject: party pigs / where to put that carboy Howdy! In HBD 1414, Todd says he got a Party Pig for his birthday. Since I fessed up a couple of weeks back that I like mine, I'll pipe up some suggestions. First, put it together first (without the pouch) in a practise run. The clamp can be tricky if you're not sure what you're doing. When you do put your beer into it, & you pump up the pump, a little beer may fizz out of the sides of the red button. Don't worry; I've had no problem with this. Just realize that you probably have enough pressure in there by then. Finally, let it carbonate at whatever temp you carbonate your bottles at. If you chill it right after sealing it, the yeast will go dormant & won't do their magic. At risk of starting another sterilization arguement, I use iodophor to sanitize my pig. Oh, one more thing! Go light on the priming sugar! My Pale Ale I put into there was mighty foamy! There isn't enough pressure in there to carbonate your beer, but there is enough to make a difference. In the same HBD, Don want's to know where people put their carboys. Since I live in Austin, Texas, where basements are an anamoly (yeah, I've been in a basement, once), I put the fermenting carboy in my bedroom closet. It's best in the winter, when the closet itself is about 67 degrees. In the summer, it gets up 85 in there (w/ the a.c. on), so that's when we resort to the brewing fridge. I stuff a towel or something under the door to block out the sunlight. If the temp starts moving up too much, I'll open the door at night to let in the cooler air. Pax limex, Alan of Austin Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 May 94 14:51:29 MDT From: "Mark B. Alston" <c-amb at math.utah.edu> Subject: Re: Sweet Homebrewed Beverages Try steeping some crystal malt (1 lb or so) in about 1 gal of 160 deg F water for 30-60 min before boiling. Strain the liquid into your boiling kettle and brew on. The Crystal malt has quite a bit of unfermentable sugar in it and will carry through to the final product. Mark Alston (c-amb at math.utah.edu) Return to table of contents
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by SERV02.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU From: John_Shepardson.esh at QMAIL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (John Shepardson) Subject: Re: Wyeast Problems Hello Brewtheren, I normally post to rec.crafts.brewing, but would like to make my hbd debut now. I had a very strange Wyeast problem recently that I just have to get off my chest. I popped a Wyeast Belgian White (3944) into a starter a few weeks ago and streaked some out onto a petri dish for future brews. After 24 hours I had no activity in the starter. Since it was brew day I decided to go ahead and use it. This is because I am fortunate enough to be an all grain brewer, and the yeast had the privilege of a good 6 to 8 hours of extra growth before pitching. I smelled the yeast just before pitching and it was unusually sulphery. Not terrible, but not too good. After 24 hours - No action in the fermenter. I looked at the petri dish - no growth. After 48 hours - same thing. This was very unusual. On the third day the fermenter was still on strike but the petri dish was a bit cloudy. I was not relaxed. So I brought the dish into work and had a microbiologist friend look at it. Under the microscope we saw absolutely no yeast. It appeared to be a pure culture of a rod shaped creature with a 6 to 1 length to width ratio that wiggled around as it floated in solution. He said it was way to big to be bacteria and that it reminded him of an aspergillus culture he was looking at recently. I was really flabbergasted. After 50 brews with Wyeast cultures, and minimal contamination problems, this was a real shocker. Luckily I had a 5 gallon batch of ale to rack and poured a gob of slurry into my Belgian ale. Other facts: The pack was dated Feb 26 (or 24) 94. I bought it the day it arrived at the brewshop and kept it refrigerated for two months. The loop was flamed and the dish was clean before use. The starter solution was not in question as the dish was inoculated directly from the Wyeast pack. There was not one single solitary yeast cell on that dish. With my luck, this will probably turn out to be the best Belgian Ale I ever made, but will never be able to repeat it! John Shepardson | "Brewed according to nature's receipt" | ( Hoegaarden 6-pack literature ) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 3 May 94 19:15:31 EST From: t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com Subject: Wyeast questions I plan to start using liquid yeasts in some upcoming brews and have a couple of questions. First, I plan on getting the most out of the yeasts by using a technique mentioned in the Yeast FAQ. It suggests, essentially, brewing a small batch and bottling it into six bottles. Then, when ready to do a real batch, place the yeast from one of the bottles into a starter and, when it is ready, pitch the starter. Any comments on this technique? Second, and more importantly, which yeast(s)? I only brew ales, and I want to use yeast that will work fairly well over a wide temperature range. I looked through a small Wyeast flyer from my local homebrew store, and two caught my eye. The Wyeast Irish (1084?) looked like a good one for somewhat malty beers - sweet stouts and scottish ales. And the Wyeast American (1056?) looked like a good one for general purpose ales. Does anyone have any comments on these yeasts? Are they somewhat forgiving about temperature fluctuations? Anyone want to take a stab at trying to describe taste characteristics? Thanks in advance! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Thomas Aylesworth | t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com Space Processor Software Engineering | Loral Federal Systems, Manassas, VA | (703) 367-6171 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 03 May 94 18:53:32 pst From: wyatt at Latitude.COM Subject: Easymasher and Irish Moss I recently purchased an Easymasher and decided to try it out. I must admit that when I recieved it I was a little aprehensive because it looked a little hokey, the filter part was a stainless steel screen as I expected but it was just wrapped into a tube and folded over at the end. The seam on the side just kinda hung out there and it was a lot smaller than I expected. I decided to put it on my 8 gal enamel pot instead of my 25 gal Stainless pot. I brewed two 7 gal batches and mashed them both using the Easymasher. It did pretty well and the only problem I had was that I kept hitting the screen part and eventualy bent it even though I tried to avoid doing so. Even so, the Easymasher still worked with no problems other than my being slightly annoyed about bending the screen. I used Irish Moss in the first batch and didn't in the second. I didn't really notice any difference and the Easymasher didn't clog but it didn't filter out the trub any better either. Irish Moss does make a difference though and the trub definatly coagulated and settled to the bottom of the fermenter in the irish moss batch as well as clearing the wort significantly. I have used irish moss off and on in the past and the wort clears better with it. One question that I have is that if most of the proteins are taken out, will the beer suffer during the aging process of lagers? I understand that the tannins and proteins react during the aging process giving a cleaner brew and in the process keeping the yeast alive(I read something about this in Noonans book "Brewing Lager Beer). If the proteins and lipids are reduced and a decoction mash is employed, will the tannins remain tainting the beer? In a fresh beer, I can see a definite plus with irish moss but I am not so sure about the cold aged ones. Thanks Wyatt Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 May 1994 15:51:09 +1200 (NZST) From: RICK ZYDENBOS <ZYDENBOSR at INVERMAY.CRI.NZ> Subject: HELP!!! OLD MEAD REFERENCE I am searching for an article that either Charlie Papazian or Michael Jackson wrote on a commercial meadery here in New Zealand. If I recall it was in an old version of Zymurgy but not 100% sure. If someone could help me with this I would be incredibly grateful!! It mentions a lot of the pitfalls he overcame in his first 20 years of brewing mead and I don't want to repeat them. Many thanks in advance!! Rick Zydenbos - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 03 May 94 10:27:43 PST From: jim_robinson at ccmailsmtp.ast.com (jim robinson) Subject: Wasted space? I'm donning my Flame Retardant (TM) suit and here comes my 2 cents. Clang. Regarding the individuals that feel they have their own idea on the content and format of the HBD, "Grow Up". The HBD can and should accommodate the needs of Homebrewers... Beginners and Advanced. There are a number of ways that people expand their knowledge base about brewing. The newbie brewers tend to ask the same basic questions, OVER and OVER, the more advanced brewers are usually very accommodating, helpful, and understanding. The more advanced brewers tend to learn by engaging in *LIVELY* discussions. After a major flame session , I'm sure that the "participants" spend a bit of time researching their position (ie..obtaining napalm) before responding. I personally find these "discussions" to be informative and entertaining. So.. Beginners keep on asking stuck fermentation questions and Advanced homebrewers keep on "discussing" the pH of Boston Whaler bilge water. To the person with cheese floating in his beer, try it on a Ritz cracker, "Everthing goes on a Ritz" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 04:44:43 PDT From: MBige.Roch817 at xerox.com Subject: re:Sparkling cider, kegging Corby: Chances are, you will soon have a big mess on your hands. Unless you used champagne corks and wire hoods to keep them on, your corks will soon pop out of the bottle and spill your precious drink. I believe one of the reasons for standing the bottles on end is in case of explosion. If you use champagne corks, the fit is so tight that you won't have to worry as much about keeping the bottle on it's side (especially since you probably will not be aging this stuff for 10 years). I've followed the same recipes from "The Art of Wine" to make champagne with success. My bottles however, were capped with bottle caps. Good Luck. -Bigs (Rochester,NY) Return to table of contents
Date: 4 May 1994 04:54:14 U From: "OAKQM3" <OAKQM3 at oakqm3.sps.mot.com> Subject: RESIPIENT SERVER IS DOWN Mail*Link(r) SMTP Homebrew Digest #1415 (May 04, 19 !!!! Original Message >= 24K; See following enclosure. Preview follows !!!! HOMEBREW Digest #1415 Wed 04 May 1994 FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor Contents: Metals usage in Brewing ("Palmer.John") A/B vs SA (LLAPV) Anti-homebrew ads, courtesy of A-B ("J. Andrew Patrick") Chest Freezer Taps (Glenn Raudins) More info on HydraPure Valves ("Palmer.John") Testing beer for toxic nasties (tims) Can't tell if fermentation is through (Daniel Neil Roberts) Re: #SAVING WATER WITH A WORT CHILLER (repiii) separate beer digests -- Just say NO! (Jack Skeels) Recipe request for Courage (Kevin Mceachern) Ascii Art (npyle) Heineken recipe request (Roger Grow) Hunter Airstat (Bill Rust) All grain question/Beer-related activities in Boston (GONTAREK) Extract Kit HBU's ("Little, David") Wyeast Hangover (Rich Larsen) homebrew volumes, mothers, dry yeast... (Jeff Frane) Sparkling cider, kegging (Corby Bacco) Spices/light protection/newbies go gonzo (Jeff Benjamin) Chemistry/Spices (Reid Graham) Pete's Wicked Ale/Just a new guy (Jeffrey S Walls) Thermostat for heat & cool (Bob Jones) Conserve Water while cooling. (rnarvaez) Appropriate yeast for Barleywine? (TATTERSH) Conserve Water while cooling. (rnarvaez) spruce beer recipes? (FIGURAP) Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 2 May 1994 13:36:41 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Metals usage in Brewing Hello Group, In response to yesterdays post by Terry for welding/Joining info and other current issues concerning our brewing metals, I offer the following compilation on zymurgical metallurgy. *Steel* The stainless steel most used for Food related applications is an austenitic stainless, 304. 304 is non-magnetic, weldable, and used extensively for kegs. The stainless used for Good pots (like Vollrath) is usually also 304. Other stainless kitchen stuff, like utensils and some pots, will be ferritic stainless, which does not have Nickel in it (or not much) and is less acid-neutral. What makes a steel Stainless? The alloying addition of Chromium (and Nickel) create a significant percentage of those atoms at the surface, where they form tenacious oxides which seal the surface and prevent further oxidation. Anodizing Aluminum alloys is the same idea, creating a solid aluminum oxide barrier to further corrosion. Anodized (black) aluminum cookware, (Magnalite, Calphalon) is acid neutral / acidic food resistant, like stainless steel, because of this heavy oxide layer. Plain (bright) aluminum cookware does not have the degree of surface oxides necessary to prevent reaction with acids. *Brass* Brass is an alloy of Copper and Zinc with some lead thrown in for machinability. The lead percentage varies, but for the common brass alloys found in hardware stores, it is 7% or less. Lead is entirely soluble in Copper. Therefore it does not have a high propensity for leaching out of brass. Jack Scmidling posted yesterday about the lab results on beer made with his Easy Masher (tm) system which is indeed a worst case scenario for wort exposure to brass, because his practice is to let the hot wort remain in contact with th - ------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------ Received: by oakqm3.sps.mot.com with SMTP;4 May 1994 04:54:00 U Received: by motsps.sps.mot.com (4.1/SMI-4.1/Email-2.1) id AA04311; Wed, 4 May 94 02:55:42 MST Received: from UA1VM.UA.EDU by spsgate.sps.mot.com (4.1/SMI-4.1/Email 2.1 10/25/93) id AA03421; Wed, 4 May 94 02:53:35 MST Message-Id: <9405040953.AA03421 at spsgate.sps.mot.com> Received: from UA1VM.UA.EDU by UA1VM.UA.EDU (IBM VM SMTP V2R2) with BSMTP id 2590; Wed, 04 May 94 04:51:45 CDT Received: from UA1VM.UA.EDU (NJE origin LISTSERV at UA1VM) by UA1VM.UA.EDU (LMail V1.1d/1.7f) with BSMTP id 0485; Wed, 4 May 1994 04:51:41 -0500 Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 01:00:45 -0600 Reply-To: Posting Address Only - No Requests <homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com> Sender: Homebrew Digest Redistribution List <BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU> From: Request Address Only - No Articles <homebrew-request@ HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM> Subject: Homebrew Digest #1415 (May 04, 1994) X-To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com To: Multiple recipients of list BEER-L <BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 9:14:15 EDT From: terfintt at ttown.apci.com (Terri Terfinko) Subject: Hot Liquor Tank I have built a hot liquor tank from a keg using an electric water heater element mounted in the side about 2 inches from the bottom. The tank also has a thermometer mounted half way down the side. In general the tank works great, except for the temperature differences between the top and bottom of the tank, usually 10-20 degrees. I was surprised to find how stratified the temperature layers were. I am constantly stirring or recirculating the water. One thought was to install a circulator pump. I have found that this is a bit pricey. A bronze bodied pump for 250 degree ratings costs over $100. Any advice on how to easily get the water temp evened out would be appreciated. Has anyone found a reasonably priced pump? Terry Terfinko - terfintt. at ttown.apci.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 06:33:40 -0700 (PDT) From: krpratt at netcom.com (Kevin Pratt) Subject: American Micro Brews I am a BJCP judge (certified). I am certainly no expert, just an avid and often brewer and beer drinker. I have begun noticing that among pub and homebrewers that the biggest beers are often perceived as their best beer. Many brewers attach a phenominal amount of energy towards high gravity, high alcohol brews and measurements of hops in metric ton increments. The topic of Barley wines and Bocks get far more coverage than ordinary bitters or pilsners, IMHO. I understand that some of it has to do with these beers being rare and expensive as commercial examples, but I see a trend in it. I've travelled to a large number of brewpubs, but recently had a chance to sample beers on tap at an English style pub. The beers I had were Fuller's ESB, Courage, and Guinness. These are the very types of beers that inspired me to brew in the first place. They were fresh, but did not have the oomph or sparkle I remember and now associate with micro- brews. I don't think their taste has changed, but my perception has. Recently, I have heard judges relate to benchmark beers like Bass, Newcastle and Guinness as watery, insipid and undrinkable. The preference is for fuller bodied beers, that are delicious, but are at the extreme top of style if not over. This indicates that our collective judgement of "balance" is changing to something that is much different. A friend of mine made the observation that this may be an extreme pendulum swing away from the budmilloors and that the further the flavor and texture is, the better. While I do like full bodied beers, I don't want to continue on a trend where the winning stout is the one that tastes like espresso with alcohol, or the winning light ale is hopped enough to be used as cologne. I would like other brewers comments on this. Kev. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 9:23:36 EDT From: "Darren L. Ward" (FSAC-FCD) <dward at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Hard vs. Soft H2O I'd like to know if there's been a consensus made regarding brewing using soft or hard water. Which will provide the best product? Does it make sense to use bottled water if your tap water seems fine? Should I cart water from my parents house where they have a softener for their well water? If the differences are minor, that information is appreciated as well. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 09:36:26 EDT From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Subject: RE: Wyeast Hangover Hi All, In HBD#1415, Rich Larsen continues the discussion of Wyeast Scottish: >Perhaps it is the yeast itself. The effect went away after about a week >more in the keg. In short the yeast settled out. I would suspect that the >concentration of the yeast in suspension from your "secondary" sample, would >be as high or higher than my impatient tapping of the keg. I suspect it does have something to do with the yeast. I was going to post, asking about the flocculation characteristics of this yeast. After 8 days in primary, I racked to secondary and left it for another 18 days. Despite the lengthy secondary, the beer was quite cloudy at that point, it seems to be a very poor flocculator. I should add the wort was crystal clear going into the fermenter. I placed the keg in a fridge at 40F, figuring that a period of cold conditioning would help settle out the yeast. After about a week, I tapped it. The beer had cleared considerably, I consumed a pint, and felt fine the next day. Rich continues: >>Then Coyote Writes : >> >>But really- Hops are know to induce sleep. You can drink a hop tea, or stuff >>a pillow with hops to help insomnia- I mean to reduce, eliminate...make sleep! >It may be that the higher concentration of hop components in young beer may >cause the effect also? I really don't think it would have enough influence >to maintain over through most of the next day. Also more commonly higher >hopped beers would cause this problem. I don't think hops have anything to do with it, either. This beer was hopped very lightly in accordance with the style, I estimate 22 IBUs. Also, the IPAs I brew are ~1.060 and very highly hopped, and I don't experience this effect. The seeming poor flocculation and "sleepy time" effect aside, the yeast did produce a slightly smoky/peaty flavor and a bit o' diacetyl, makes a very nice Scotch ale indeed. Comments? Cheers, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 May 94 09:57:44 EDT From: efrainm at aol.com Subject: Honey Priming I use honey extensively in my brewing, I love the crisp, herbal flavor that honey adds to my beer. I've used honey several times to prime. I reccomend that you use 3/4 cup not 1/2, a half cup seems to leave the beer somewhat under carbonated. Make sure to boil the honey for 5 - 10 minutes. Most important of all expierement all you want, after all that is the reason homebrewing is such a fun hobby. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 May 1994 10:00:29 -0500 (EST) From: Doug Lukasik <LUKASIK_D at sunybroome.edu> Subject: Beginners Strange Brews In HBD 1415 Jeff Benjamin notes that many new brewers are making "strange" brews and wonders why. Perhaps like myself they realized that their is a very large world of beer out there that they had never experienced before and want to jump right into it. Perhaps it is due to drooling while listening to the more experienced brewers discussing some of the same strange brews. As a brewer that began in December 1993 I have personally completed 14 batches of brew (12 ales, 2 lagers), have brewed the first from a kit, the next 8 from extract only, and the last 5 as partial mashes, and have experimented with all kinds of adjuncts. The range in alcohol goes from 3.5% to 10% (a dopple bock that ended up being a barley wine - quite good actually), and there are a total of 10 styles completed. Part of the reason in brewing different styles was to find the brew that I would truely enjoy....the other part was that I started to sample all sorts of commercial brew and then just *had* to try and brew one that was similar. All in all I have found that I really love robust porter and pale ale - after three attempts I am extremely close to having a great clone of Anchor Liberty Ale (side by side they are hardly discernable), batch 4 ought to be the match. To suggest that new brewers stick to the basics because the art of brewing is so complicated is like suggesting that when learning to cook we should stick to boiling hotdogs because the use of spices is to tricky. Playing with recipes and trying out new avenues is part of what teaches a new brewer how to brew better beer. It also allows us to find a style that we like and then modify it to suit our tastes just like the experienced brewer does. In addition, those of us with NET access have all you HBDers to help us out when we run into trouble. Finally I would probably agree that not all new brewers end up brewing a batch every week, month after month, but some of us really get involved very early on. Next fall I am planning the move to all grain brewing, expanding my lager styles (still in search of that perfect beer for me), and continuing my ale brewing adventure. With experimentation also comes a few failures (I have actually contaminated a batch with metal (luckily we drank most of this one green before it manifested itself) and have a very disappointing Olde Ale that even my experienced brewing friends don't know what is wrong with). But I beleive it is from our failures and furthered experimentation that we learn to better our brewing and ultimately our drinking pleasure. (Of course all of this could just be my own personality quirk as I also got 43 chickens a month ago (nothing like starting small) and am actually contemplating brewing "Cocks Ale" ;^) Good brewing, better drinking, Doug. <lukasik_d at sunybroome.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 06:57:09 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Barleywine yeast Bob Tattershall writes: > I am about to attempt my first barleywine. It appears that some pitch just an > Ale yeast, others pitch a Champagne yeast, while even others pitch an Ale > yeast and then later pitch a Champagne yeast in the same batch. What is the > proper procedure? What are the advantages of any one method over the other? > In my extreeeeemely humble opinion (Frane's famous Uriah Heep impression), the correct yeast for barleywine is a healthy ale yeast. The important factors are alcohol tolerance, very high pitching rate, and high rate of aeration at pitching. I've found that most of the commercially-available ale strains work well enough (Wyeast's 1056 is an example) and that the most successful method is to first brew a normal-gravity ale and then either pitch fermenting beer or the entire volume of yeast from the bottom of the ale fermentation. Bear in mind that a barleywine shouldn't finish bone-dry, but also shouldn't end up at 1035! You might also bear in mind that one can produce a mighty fine barleywine without starting out at 1.100. You are more likely to get positive results (and avoid sickly sweet, unfinished beer) if you start at around 1.090. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 10:21:07 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Thermostat for heat & cool Hmm. How about a 3PDT switch to cut out the unused side of the thermostat? Like this: thermostat +o\ heater SPDT switch | \ o-------+ |\o-/\/\/\/\/\/--------o heat / \ S / o |- - - - - - - - - - - - \ S S=swinger AC Hot ---|-----o o------- o\| | \ | o-------+ \o----[ frig ]--------o cool | | | +o | AC Neut ---|---------------------------------------------------- Of course, 3PDT switches rated for fridge-type loads aren't so easy to come by. But it would be safer. =S Return to table of contents
Date: 4 May 1994 07:38:27 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Mashing Breakfast Cereal Am I out of my mind?! Well, popular opinion aside, I have been wondering about this. Mashing breakfast cereal that is. So far my candidates are Grape Nuts, Cheerios, and of course Quaker Oatmeal. Captain Crunch w/ Crunchberries could be considered for a specialty beer I suppose. Seriously, I have heard that the Quaker Instant Oats are easier to convert than the Old Fashioned, for making Oatmeal Stout (or Oatmeal Porter in my case). Would Grape Nuts- the all-natural wheat and barley cereal, be mashable? Might it lend a "crunchy, nutty" flavor? And would Cheerios give a Toasted Oat flavor? How about Wheaties or Rice Krispies? This might be a good way to get rid of all those extra boxes in the cupboard that nobody will eat. Its something to think about. What's Science if you don't push the envelope? palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com OR palmer#d#john.ssd-hb_#l#15&22#r# at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 7:38:38 PDT From: MRS1%CRPTech%DCPP at bangate.pge.com Subject: Chest Freezers I'd like to add one more post about Glenns querry on converting a chest freezer to accomidate a beer tap. I have an old Sears chest freezer that I just converted this weekend. What I did was remove the cheapo plastic handle insert and lock from the lid of the freezer. This allowed access into the lid. I then drilled a hole into the plastic inner lid liner and routed my dispensing line up into the lid and out the rectangular hole where the handle used to be. I then attached the line to the tap which is fixed onto a piece of wood large enough to hold a drip tray. The whole mess is attached to the lid. By mounting it this way it takes up little space in front, and does not cause a clearance problem when lifting the lid. ------------------------------|__ Lid | | ____--------X-\Tap / ---------\ \ ---------------------/--------| | / | | / | |Mounting Panel Line in | | | | |-----------Tray | | Freezer front Marty Sanders mrs1 at pge.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 9:43:00 CDT From: Mark Youman <marky at admin.stedwards.edu> Subject: scotch ale in decline My extract based Scotch ale is 3 months in the bottle and the taste is going downhill. I'm noticing a substantial amount of trub-like stuff at the bottom of the bottles that pours out into the glass if I'm not careful. This stuff was *not* present when the beer was at its prime (2 months in the bottle). Is it flucocolated yeast? Is this the cause of the unpleasant metallic-like flavor that has developed? e-mail or post very appreciated mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 10:51:14 -0400 (EDT) From: Henry E Kilpatrick <hkilpatr at mason1.gmu.edu> Subject: corking sparkling cider Re: Corby's question on corking sparkling cider: The first thing you need to do is to obtain champagne style corks and the wire attachments (I don't know what they're called) that secure the cork to the bottleneck. Plastic "corks" from a home winemaking shop will work. Real cork needs to be soaked in water before going into the bottle. I am not familiar with capping procedures for champagne with real corks, but it is likely that you will need a special capper. Unless the procedure has changed recently, the plastic corks can be inserted by hand. After you secure the cork with the wiring, you can store the bottles on their sides. Also, note that you need champagne bottles instead of regular wine bottles or the wiring will not hold. When bottling uncarbonated wine or cider, you should leave the bottles upright for a day or two in case there is too much pressure in some of the bottles. If any corks rise, you replace them. After that, bottles should be stored on their sides until a day or two before you drink the wine. If you use regular corks instead of wine corks, don't use the the wire attachments, use regular wine bottles, and store your sparkling cider on its side, you will probably lose most of it unless you consume it before there is much pressure buildup in the bottle (although, maybe you could keep it refrigerated at fairly low temperatures). Buddy Kilpatrick hkilpatr at mason1.gmu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 10:51:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Eugene Sonn <eugene at sccs.swarthmore.edu> Subject: firestone kegs Hi to all you in HBD land, I threw a party this past week and served a local beer (Yuengling). The beer came in firestone kegs, which despite being quite beat up, worked better than any sankey kegs I've used. I've been pondering buying/not returning a keg in the near future to put homebrew in. Does anyone have an good/bad experience with firestone kegs? I know firestone taps are harder to find, but they seem to keep a seal better because they screw on rather than slip on. Thanks in advance. Eugene eugene at sccs.swarthmore.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 10:51:23 EDT From: Steven W. Schultz <swschult at cbda9.apgea.army.mil> Subject: Barley in the Ancient Near East An archeology student that I know thru the "net" has requested information on the uses of barley for brewing in Near East. He knows all about the agricultur- al uses of barley, its place in commerce, etc., but he wants information on brewing. The best I could do for him was to refer him to The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing by Papazian. Anyone out there who can help, please send me private posts. Thanks in advance for your assistance. Steve Schultz Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1416, 05/05/94