FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  pin->ball-lock / force carbo / stoves (10-May-1994 0911 -0400)
  Dark Weiss & Kegging Questions (Dan Wood)
  Leave trub behind (Rick.Lane)
  gueze culture (Troy Downing)
  Chlorine Concentrations ("Palmer.John")
  Re: Homebrew BBSs (Brian J. Cecil)
  Homebrew BBS's / Kegging CO2 (John McCaskill)
  Improved Zapap, scorched counter, alum. brewpot (Nancy.Renner)
  Re: pin fittings to ball kegs? (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Adjuncts & Extracts (MARK CASTLEMAN)
  oxygen suckers! (burners) (andrewb6)
  Re[2]: pin fittings to ball kegs? (Gary Rich)
  Watney's Cream Stout (rnarvaez)
  read 'em & weap, brewers (LLAPV)
  New BrewPub (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  RE: LOW CALORIE BEERS/ALL GRAIN BREWING QUESTIONS (lynch)
  Anchor Liberty Recipe ("Ball, Timothy B")
  Using Corks ( LARRY KELLY)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 10 May 94 09:19:55 EDT
From: 10-May-1994 0911 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com>
Subject: pin->ball-lock / force carbo / stoves

>Date: 9 May 94 07:10:00 EST
>From: "CANNON_TOM" <CANNON_TOM at hq.navsea.navy.mil>
>Subject: Counterflow Chiller Question + Where's my Glatt Mill?
>
>          This summer we'll be making the move toward brewing in a
>          15.5 gallon converted keg on a King Kooker.  Recently, out
>          discussions have been on the thread "how to chill larger
>          volumes".  We've sort of settled on the Counterflow Wort

I have an immersion chiller that i built with 50' of copper tubing (i wrapped
it around a corny keg - came out nice) and a few hose clamps for about $30.
I can chill 5.5 gals of brew from 212 -> 80F in 10 mins.  no fuss, no muss.


>Date: Mon, 09 May 94 08:24:14 PDT
>From: Gary Rich <garyrich at qdeck.com>
>Subject: pin fittings to ball kegs?
>
>Dion was saying in response to someone wanting to adapt a pinlock keg to his
>ball lock fittings:
>
>         Absolutely NOT!!!  Coke produced the specifications for pin lock
>         fittings specifically so that they had a proprietery size.  No

Either I hallucinated it or it is possible:  I had an old coke keg with 
pin-lock fittings that i converted to ball-lock.  there are lots of diff.
style kegs, you just gotta get the right keg and order the right fittings!
Matter of fact, the keg is on tap now and it works like a charm!

>Date: 9 May 94 08:53 CST
>From: Wolfe at act-12-po.act.org
>Subject: Cookers
>
>     2)   Anyone with experience with the various burners, please send me
>information about your satisfaction.  I'm particularly interested in people
>who have used a burner with a 15.5 gallon SS keg setup (BTUs, time to

I have a King Kooker that i bought used for $20.00 or so.  so far, i've done
about 6 all-grain batches with it on 1 tank (20lb) of propane.  i'm using a
15.5 gal boiler.  the 15.5 gal keg fits very nicely on the stove and it is
at a good height.

>Date: Mon, 09 May 1994 15:40:48 -0500 (EST)
>From: Bruce Wiggins <FAC_BWIGGINS at VAX1.ACS.JMU.EDU>
>Subject: kegging carbonation
>
>I have just started kegging my brew, and would like to ask any experienced
>keggers out there:  how long does it take to force-pressurize a 5-gal batch of
>refrigerator-temperature beer?  I have tried using 10 psi, and this seems to
>take days to get good carbonation.  When I put more pressure on it (20-25 psi),
>it tends to over-carbonate.  What is the optimum pressure/time for
>force-carbonation?

It is the method that you have wrong.  to force-carbo:

1) do not prime
2) put keg in fridge and chill to as cold as it'l go w/o freezing
3) once cold, connect C02 and pressure at 30 PSI... 
4) keep CO2 on and set at 30 PSI
5) shake the shit outta the keg.  you'll hear the hissing of the co2 as the
   beer sucks up the co2
6) do this for 15 or so minutes (you'll be good and spent after that exercise!)
7) disconnect Co2
8) let keg hang out for 24 hrs.
9) reduce pressure to serving pressure, or about 8-12PSI
10) drink.


jc

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Date: Tue, 10 May 94 08:54:13 CDT
From: wood at ranger.rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Dark Weiss & Kegging Questions

My friend Dave, an infrequent homebrewer (aka heathen), claims to have 
recently drank a "dark weiss" made in Germany.  I contended that it would
be difficult to make such a beer conforming to the German beer purity law
(R_?).  Can someone please settle this?  I suspect that I'm wrong, they
must be able to use roasted grains, how else could they make Beck's Dark?

I have many questions on kegging, and have already read TNCJOHB and the
kegging FAQ.  Anyway, here's some background.  Recently I bought a
kegging setup: a 5 lb CO2 tank, 2 gauges, regulator, and misc fittings.
I already had 3 pin-lock kegs.  I also wanted to be able to use the
"Carbonator" caps for 2L pop bottles, which use a ball-lock fitting.  I
got a threaded connection on the end of the supply line, and matching
threaded ball and pin-lock supply fittings.  [shameless plug for Gar
at Heartland Hydroponics in Vernon Hills, IL, who was most helpful].

Seems like an easy way to be able to use either fitting type: if I needed
to I could buy the ball-lock liquid-out fitting plus the line and tap
and use either keg type.  I also purchased the large O-rings for the kegs,
and bought the smaller ones for the dip tubes at a hardware store, like
the FAQ recommended.  Anyway, here's the questions:

Is it recommended to also replace the middle-sized O-rings on the keg
poppets?  If so, will standard parts from the hardware store work?

What are the tradeoffs between natural (priming) and forced carbonation?
Should the dip tube be shortened for natural carbonation?  I'd rather not,
dumping the first glass seems like a better choice.

Sanitation.  Do you need to sanitize the CO2 supply lines or fittings?
Does the CO2 kill the microbeasts?  What about the liquid out side?  
I can force sanitizer through the output side, but I'm at a loss about the
supply side.

How do you measure/monitor the pressure in a keg?  My setup has an in-line
check valve, so you can't use the dispenser gauge to measure pressure at
the keg.  Do you just bleed it off, then restore it to the desired level
using the regulator & gauge?  Seems like a measurement would be a good way
to check for leaks.

I don't have a fridge for keg storage (yet).  My basement has a crawlspace
at one end that stays at about 65 F, usually lower, until late summer.  Is 
this cold enough for forced carbonation?  I thought about icing the keg in
a 7 gallon bucket for serving, then putting it back in the crawlspace 
during idle periods.  Will this temperature cycling hurt the beer?

Do you shut off the main valve when not in use?  I'm kind of paranoid
about finding my CO2 cylinder empty just when I'm ready to dazzle friends
with my kegged brew.  Are CO2 leaks common?  Can you really smell it, like
the Coyote says? 

Sparkling water.  My setup plus the Carbonator caps have been a great hit
for homemade, all natural, juice flavored sparkling water.  My bride is
impressed, and abuse over buying more HB equipment has been minimal.  A 
tip for anyone out there trying to justify the cost.  FYI, my basic
setup was only $125, with a full CO2 cylinder, but without kegs and the 
extra (threaded ball-lock) fitting.  Email if you'd like details on making 
sparkling water, kinda off the subject for the HBD.

Finally, long ago someone posted about having both 20 LB and 5 LB cylinders,
and filling the 5 from the 20.  Sounds pretty cool, and reduces the risk
of being outa gas if the smaller system developed a leak.  Dealing with
800 PSI of CO2 to charge the 5 from the 20 sounds pretty scary though.
Any thoughts/tips/warnings?

Sorry about the long post.  I promise to return to lurking long term
if you'll please answer my questions.  Thanks alot for any thoughts,
advice, or ridicule.

Dan Wood, speaking for the FVHAA, and not Motorola.  wood at cig.mot.com

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Date: Tue, 10 May 1994 10:33:41 -0400
From: Rick.Lane at lambada.oit.unc.edu
Subject: Leave trub behind

>The r.c.b forum has quickly moved me down the learning curve and here's my
>"leave the trub behind" method.  
>
>Depending on the age of your liquid yeast bag, break it so it'll be ready
>to go 24 hours after you start boiling.
>After specialty grains, divert four tbl spns of extract to a saucepan with
>four cups water in it.  Boil this for 15-20 minutes alongside the wort,
>then pour into sterile 500ml erlenmeyer flask.  Force cool to 65 deg F.
>After boil, let lg kettle cool for 20 minutes, then set it in sink in cool
>water twice, then ice to cool wort to about 110 deg F.  
>Pour wort into 5gal carboy thru a specialty grain mesh bag (looks like a
>hairnet) stretched over the funnel.  The bag works better than a filter
>because you can pick up the edges of the bag to move the liquid around and
>thru the mesh.  
>Add distilled, cooled water to fill carboy to very top, then airlock with
>cotton ball.
>When bag is ready, empty yeast into 1000ml flask and add starter culture. 
>You can shake away to aerate the culture.  It should be ready next day for
>pitching.
>
>Next day, transfer clear wort from top down to fermenter and pitch starter
>culture during transfer.  This aids aeration in addition to however you
>usually aerate your pitched yeast.  I use a priming bulb like that used
>to prime outboard motors, but instead blow air thru a hose and tube to
>bottom of fermenter.  
>
>My last batch using this method started bubbling in 10 hours, the second
>day bubbled every 2-3 seconds, and the third day it was done, slowing to
>40 seconds.
>
>My beers have gotten much clearer also.
>
>Good luck.
>
>
>--
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> \ The above does not represent OIT, UNC-CH, laUNChpad, or its other users. /
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Date: Tue, 10 May 1994 11:44:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: downing at FOUND.CS.NYU.EDU (Troy Downing)
Subject: gueze culture

Has anyone tried starting a yeast/bacteria culture from a bottle of
Gueze lambic? I'm curious what might still be viable in a bottle of this 
and what kind of beer it would produce. I'd like to hear if anyone has
tried this and what the results were.

+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Troy Downing, Research Scientist                   (212) 998-5753 (voice) |
| New York University                                (212) 998-3384 (alt)   |
| Media Research Lab                                 (212) 995-4122 (FAX)   |
| 715 Broadway, Rm 1214                                                     |
| New York, NY 10003                                 downing at cs.nyu.edu     |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+


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Date: 10 May 1994 08:53:24 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Chlorine Concentrations

Daniel Houg writes:
>Second, here are some relative concentrations of free chlorine for 
>comparison purposes:
>    chlorinated public water= typically 0.5-1.0 PPM
>    swimming pools= 1.0-3.0 but as high as 10 PPM in Europe
>    restaraunt sanitizing in three compartment sink= 50 PPM
>Chemical test papers that indicate the PPm of chlorine in solution 
>(10 to 200 ppm range) are available from National Chemicals Inc. 
>1-800-533-0027 (NOT an endorsement, just a source) and are about a 
>buck for a vial of a 100 or so.  Note:  nearly EVERYBODY uses 
>chlorine in excess of the amount needed to sanitize (50PPM) so these 
>test strips are interesting to use to see how little bleach it really 
>takes.

Okay. So the swimming pool analogy is all wet.  Combing thru the HBD archives
yesterday, I found this.

*Reprinted from Homebrew Digest #1155,  Thu 03 June 1993:
*Stainless Steels by Dr. George Fix (excerpt):
>This alloy (304) has some resistance to chlorine, but not like 316. Studies
>done with brewing in mind concluded the following:
>
>  1. The relevant parameter is the concentration of the free available
>     chlorine (FAC), independent of its source (bleach, chlorine powder,
>     etc.). 
>
>  2. At room temperature (and a normal pH), 304 is resistant to chlorine
>     as long as the FAC is below 250 mg/l.
>
>Since our standard 1 oz. bleach per gallon gives a FAC of 100 mg/l, one
>could conclude that chlorine bleach can be used to sanitize ss kegs.
>Careful brewers will reject this conclusion. The factor of 2.5 is cutting
>it too close. More to the point, the studies were based on a one time
>application of the chemical to the metal, and does not take into account
>the effects of long time use. I use boiling water or iodophor simply
>because I am not prepared to gamble with ss equipment that I hope will
>be with me in the long run. 

Now I have been using 1 tablespoon per gallon (4ml/l) (1/2 ounce/gallon) and
letting it sit for 20 minutes. By looking at the articles above, the reader is
left with two handfuls of chlorine, looking at his stainless steel keg and
saying Well...?
Does anyone know how many ppms are in a mg/liter??! And how many fluid ounces
per gallon that is?!!
I know, I should be able to figure this out for myself, but its almost 9am and
I have had only one cup of coffee and no donuts.

BTW, FWIW, I am not the Wizard of OZ on these matters, so if you think I am
wrong, blurt it out, I don't mind. I will dig further for the correct answer.
As always, YMMV. 
John Palmer   MDA-SSD M&P  palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com   OR
palmer#d#john.ssd-hb_#l#15&22#r# at ssdgwy.mdc.com


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Date: 10 May 94 12:15:16 ES
From: Brian J. Cecil <Brian_J.._Cecil at wecnotes.semcor.com>
Subject: Re: Homebrew BBSs

Larry Wrote:

>Does anyone out there have any Homebrew BBS phone numbers?
>Only if they support 9600 baud or higher!

>I'm looking for BBS's that have a good supply of recipes mainly.

I do not know of a Bulletin Board that caters to Homebrewers specifically.  
However, CompuServe has a Homebrew crowd that is ready willing and able to help 
out anyone with a question.  They also have many recipes on file.  They are 
located in the Wine Forum. 

Disclaimer:  I am not affiliated with CompuServe in any way.  I'm just a user.

Brian


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Date: Tue, 10 May 94 11:50:19 CDT
From: jhm at texmemsys.com (John McCaskill)
Subject: Homebrew BBS's / Kegging CO2

Larry Kelly wanted to know about Homebrew BBS's.

Try Home Brew University BBS at 713-923-6418 (8-N-1)
They also have another "Campus", but I do not have that number handy.

Bruce Wiggins asked about kegging and carbonation pressures.

Look on sierra.stanford.edu under /pub/homebrew/docs for:

co2.txt		- CO2 temp/pressure/volume chart for kegging
co2.ps		- PostScript version of above
co2-volume.c	- C program to print the above chart

These are also on the above BBS.

When I force carbonate my kegs, I take the gas fitting of the CO2 hose, and
replace it with the liquid fitting and let the CO2 bubble up through the beer.
Chill the keg of beer first, and shake while carbonating.  When you hear the
bubbles stop, shake it some more. Keep this up until it does not bubble any 
more.

Try undershooting your target, and then tweeking the carbonation level up.

John McCaskill

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Date: Tue, 10 May 94 13:44:04 EDT
From: Nancy.Renner at um.cc.umich.edu
Subject: Improved Zapap, scorched counter, alum. brewpot

>From *Jeff* Renner, using my wife's address. 
 
Some ideas for an improved Zapap from a 20 year brewer (13 years full mash 
using a Zapap). 
 
In HBD 1384, 3/29/94, MikeHansen(HANSENMD at  RANDB.ABBOTT 
 .COM) wrote: 
 
>A caution to all you Zapap Lauter tun users: watch the level of the >liquid 
that comes up between the two buckets! I didn't and ended >up with a quart 
or so of precious juice all over the counter (yes, the >to-be scorched one), 
floor, and the inside of my winter coat (Huh? >you say? My lauter tun was 
donning it for insulation; Looks really >funny). Chalk up the second 
installment of the angry-wife syndrome >in the same brewing session. 
 
I've avoided runover of the lower Zapap bucket and increased the capacity  
as well by silicone caulking the gap.  I did this originally to avoid 
pulling air down the side of the sparge, but these are side benefits.  Be 
sure to use food grade caulking, not the stuff with mold inhibitors and 
fungicides (see previous posts).  A better insulator than a winter coat is 
the bottom of the Styrofoam shipping container for a seven gallon carboy.  I 
cut a hole through the Styrofoam and use a part of a broken racking cane 
(lots of those always on hand) as an extender for the outlet tube.  I like 
to brew seven gallons and then dilute to 7-3/4 gal. to fill a quarter bbl. 
Sankey keg, and find I can lauter more than 13 pounds of grain. 
 
>I scorched the counter top next to the stove because of that same >heat 
(bad). Chalk-up another installment of the angry-wife >syndrome. 
 
I avoid scorched stove tops and counters by covering the burner         
reflector bowls, stove top and counters with heavy duty aluminum foil.  It 
also makes cleanups easier, and reduces angry-wife syndrome, too. 
 
I recently retired a 33 qt. enameled steel brew pot when the handle welds 
began to rust and leak. I found a new 40qt. aluminum pot for about $65 
(including lid).  After the extensive commentary on the net earlier, I'd 
like to report that I get no metal flavor, and I get much better hot break 
due to the more efficient boil even though I can use only one burner.  I get 
long stringy break material (like cooked egg white) soon after full boil, 
much more than I used to get.   
 
Jeff     

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Date: Tue, 10 May 94 11:34:41 PDT
From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: pin fittings to ball kegs?

>>>>> "Gary" == Gary Rich <garyrich at qdeck.com> writes:

Gary> Dion was saying in response to someone wanting to adapt a
Gary> pinlock keg to his ball lock fittings:

Dion>  Absolutely NOT!!!  Coke produced the specifications for pin lock
Dion>  fittings specifically so that they had a proprietery size.  No
Dion>  portions of any ball lock QD will mate to threads on any pin lock.
Dion>  This is a shame, since there are a number of fittings including NPT
Dion>  threads which go on the top of ball lock QD fittings which are not
Dion>  available for pin lock.  I have talked extensively to the Hansen
Dion>  technical people (they make the pin lock fittings) and they had never
Dion>  thought to try to adapt some of the ball lock stuff to pin lock.
Dion>  They thought it would not work, and then tried it to make sure,  and
Dion>  sure enough, it does not.

Gary> I was afraid of that myself.  I'm in the opposite situation.
Gary> Does the above "NOT!!" apply to going this direction as well?
Gary> Everything else I have is pin lock and if nothing else, changing
Gary> hoses on the CO2 tank back and forth is a pain.  Since this
Gary> little jewel will fit in the kitchen fridge I'm determined to
Gary> make it work one way or the other.

Well, after several replies from people, I have to admit I was wrong.
I was operating on what I believed to be accurate information obtained
from Spartanburg Firestone Steel who makes the kegs and Hansen who
makes the fittings.  They both specifically stated that Coke had made
the threads incompatible.  From other people's experience, there are
obviously *some* keg and fitting combinations which will interchange.
I have 10 pinlock kegs from three manufacturers with two different
valve body manufacturers and every one of them has the same threads.

I am very sorry for making a hasty and incorrect statement.


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Date: Tue, 10 May 1994 12:42:36 -0600 (MDT)
From: MARK CASTLEMAN <mwcastle at ouray.Denver.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Adjuncts & Extracts

I am toying with the ideea of making a very light ale for the summer 
round-up and much to the chagrin of my Rheinheitsgebot following SO I am
thinking about using corn.  Can you use flaked corn (maize) with extracts 
or does it need to be mashed?  How about corn or rice syrup?

                             Mark W Castleman
                     Big Dog Brewing Cooperative - West 
My opinions are for this branch of the co-op only.  CU-Denver doesn't know I
have opinions, And even if it did, it wouldn't care one whit.


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Date: Tue, 10 May 94 15:24:20 EDT
From: andrewb6 at aol.com
Subject: oxygen suckers! (burners)

in #1420 Ed wolfe writes:

- --I'd also like to hear from anyone who has
experience and/or insights about how to set up a ventilation system for
using one of these oxygen suckers in a basement.

I have no expeience with this, but I've given it a great deal of thought, so
I'd like to throw in my 2 cents.

A few months back the discussion of burners came up (surprise) and someone
mentioned reducing the time it takes to come to a boil by surrounding the keg
with a modified oil drum (I think it was) or some such container.

My thought is this: why not vent this jacket to the outside and get rid of
all that CO2, H2O and C
O etc.

Ridiculous ASCII graphics to follow:

                ____I      I____
 ______________[    I
xxxxxxI    ]       XXX = heat source
 ______________     I      I    ]       xxx = sfc. of wort
               [    I      I    ]       ]   = wall of oil drum (or similar)
               [    I      I    ]       I   = wall of brew kettle
               [    I______I    ]       ___
               [     XXXXXX     ]       ___ = outlet pipe


End of Ridiculous ASCII graphics.

Ok, so hopefully you get the idea.  There's a hole cut in the top of the oil
drum to slide the kettle down into.  The drum is open at the bottom so that
the burner can draw in enough air.  There's a hole in one side of the drum,
near the top, with the exhaust pipe connected to it.  Voila.

You may need to make a baffle or two to even out the hot air flow around the
kettle (for efficiency's sake), but other than that it should be fairly
simple (ugly too).

The only problem I can see is venting the hot air fast enough to keep the
system efficient and to let the burner breath new O2.  I originally thought
of using dryer duct, but depending on the required length, the diameter may
not be big enough.

What say you cyberspace engineers, will this work?????????

Andy Baird
andrewb6 at aol.com

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Date: Tue, 10 May 94 12:31:45 PDT
From: Gary Rich <garyrich at qdeck.com>
Subject: Re[2]: pin fittings to ball kegs?


Well, after several replies from people, I have to admit I was wrong.
I was operating on what I believed to be accurate information obtained
from Spartanburg Firestone Steel who makes the kegs and Hansen who
makes the fittings.  They both specifically stated that Coke had made
the threads incompatible.  From other people's experience, there are
obviously *some* keg and fitting combinations which will interchange.
I have 10 pinlock kegs from three manufacturers with two different
valve body manufacturers and every one of them has the same threads.

I am very sorry for making a hasty and incorrect statement.


        {
        Oh well.  No big deal.  You sure sounded right to me.  It's exactly
        the sort of thing I would expect from Coke (the Annheuser-Bush of
        soda).  I'll bet they tried.  

        I guess I'm going to have to dissasemble the valves and see if I'm
        lucky and have a matching thread type.  Any idea where a good source
        is for new valve bodies?  Sounds like you've talked to a lot of these
        guys.

        }
Thanks
      -Gary R.-
               garyrich at qdeck.com


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Date: Mon, 09 May 1994 14:48:18 -0500
From: rnarvaez at lan.mcl.bdm.com
Subject:  Watney's Cream Stout

Well I have just found Heaven! 
For lunch today I tried a Watney Cream Stout (on tap) and could not
believe just how great this beer is. 
I was wondering if there is any fellow homebrewers that might have a
recipe that I could use that would be somewhere close to this wonderful
cream stout. I have tried a Cream Ale using lactose, and it turned out
fairly good but it wasn't a stout.
Please if anybody could help me make some of this (taste of heaven)
beer I would be forever indebted.


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Date: Tuesday, 10 May 94 15:35:56 CST
From: LLAPV at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu
Subject: read 'em & weap, brewers

HOW TO GET A JOB AT A BREWPUB WITHOUT TRYING

Pay attention, 'cuz I ain't tellin' this but once.  A friend of mine last
week was having a beer at a brewpub he visits on occaision.  He struck up
a conversation with the brewmaster, whom he had chit-chatted with a couple
times before.  It came up that the brewmaster was looking for a new
"cellarmaster" (the guy, in the case of this brewpub, who does the grunt
work in the brewery).  My friend, Jim, expressed some interest, having always
wanted to brew for a living.  The brewer told him he had to interview a couple
of people the next day, but he would get back to Jim.  Well, two days later
Jim got a call with a job offer.  The next day, he had his first day working
in a brewery.

Three days later he met Michael Jackson while on the job.

And all without even trying.

Alan of Austin

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Date:     Tue, 10 May 94 16:39:16 EDT
From: "Peter J. Burke" (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Subject:  New BrewPub

Greetings,

I just returned from a class at the National Institute of Standards (NIST)
and found a great BrewPub and Liquor Store. 
Both in Gaithersburg, Maryland.

The Liquor store is in the Giant Shopping Center directly across from
the light that brings you into NIST. They had more microbrews and
foreign beers than I knew existed. A fine fine selection. Take
route 270 North (from Washington DC) to exit 10, make a right at
the first light, this is the shopping center lot.

The Olde Towne Tavern & Brewing Co. is also in Gaithersburg. I went
from the liquor store (they directed me). At the light that you entered
the shopping center, make a left as if you are going back to I-270.
Go under 270, and make a left on Meem Street. Make a right onto Chestnut.
Finally make a right onto East Diamond St. The pub is on the corner
of E. Diamond and Summitt, park across the street in the train
station lot. They do not have a liscence to brew their own yet, but
they did have; Dominion Lager, Ale & Stout (VA); Dock St Pilsner (PA);
Blue Ridg Porter, Wild Goose Amber, and Old Henreich Marzen, all on tap.

Email to pburke at pica.army.mil if you'd like further info.


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Date: Tue, 10 May 1994 17:50:30 EST
From: lynch at wrgrace.com
Subject: RE: LOW CALORIE BEERS/ALL GRAIN BREWING QUESTIONS

Re: Low Calorie Beers/All Grain Brewing

In HBD1419, PNEUMAND at delphi.com complained of 2 problems from 
homebrewing:
1. Belly getting bigger
2. Head in morning getting heavier

For the second problem, C. Papazain recommended in his book (TNCJOHB) 
using a blowoff tube in the primary fermentor to get rid of nasties in the
beer 
that cause deleterious side effects (e.g. heavy head in bed).  I have tried
this 
only once, but I did not see any real benefit; however, I usually only drink
1-2 
beers per days (i.e. I usually don't get bitten by my beers).

For the first problem, I do have some tried and true suggestions.  First, do
not 
compromise your beer.  The basic problem really is fat intake,of which beer
has 
none. :-)   I had a similar problem with a growing belly (gained 30lbs after
I 
started brewing) and although beer does not have fat, it does have alcohol
and 
alcohol interferes with the the breakdown of fat in the body.  If your
homebrew 
packs a higher alcohol content versus commercial, then your body will have a 
harder time getting rid of the fat.  THE SOLUTION IS TO CUT THE FAT 
(you may also want to limit your beer intake while you are trying to lose
weight 
to help speed the process).  So enjoy your beer slowly, don't eat junk food
(low 
fat pretzels go great with beer) and you will be healthier, happier and more 
relaxed.  I am speaking from experience since I managed to lose 25lbs in 3 
months by just eliminating the fries, fatty meats, high fat milk, etc.
- --------------------------------------- 

I have some questions for any of you recently converted all grain brewers (I 
brew with extracts and add specialty grains to enhance):

1) Besides increased self satisfaction and eventual cost savings, what are
the   
      benefits?
          (e.g. have you ever made a similar beer using all grain versus
extract
                        noticed any significant differences)

2) What are some of the difficulties you faced switching over (e.g.
equipment, 
            technique) and how did you overcome them?

3) Are you completely converted over to brewing via all grain?

4) Is there anyone out there who has converted back to extract brewing?

If I get enough responses, I will summarize.  I think most of the extract
brewers 
would agree with me in the sentiment that we do not know what we are missing 
since we already make very enjoy the fruits of our simple labor.

Thanks in advance, 
John Lynch     lynch at wrc.wrgrace.com



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Date: Tue, 10 May 94 16:02:00 PDT
From: "Ball, Timothy B" <ballti at uh2372p03.daytonoh.NCR.COM>
Subject: Anchor Liberty Recipe


>From: Doug Lukasik
<snip>
>I am extremely close to having a great clone of
>Anchor Liberty Ale (side by side they are hardly discernable), batch 4 
ought
>to be the match.


I'm interested in your Anchor Liberty recipe.  I tried Anchor Liberty over 
the weekend and it tastes almost exactly like the pale I just made.  I just 
wondered how similar our recipes are.

6 lbs. Northwestern Pale liquid X
1 lbs..  Lagglander Pale dry X
1/2  lbs.. Crystal 40L
1/2  lbs.. Toasted 25L
3 oz. Cascade (whole leaf)  5.5%,  60min  (Partial Boil)
1 oz. Cascade (whole leaf) dry hop , one week
1 tsp. gypsum
1tsp Irish Moss
Wyeast London

start gravity 1.053
end gravity  1.010

If I were to use only  1/2 oz. dry hop I think they would be identical.

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Date: Tue, 10 May 1994 19:59:20 EDT
From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY)
Subject: Using Corks

Can someone tell me any information concerning the use of Corks in bottles.

I'd like to bottle some brews in Wine bottles. Is there anything I need to
do to the cork before using.

Larry

Any information is appreciated, Negative or Positive


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1421, 05/11/94