HOMEBREW Digest #1420 Tue 10 May 1994

Digest #1419 Digest #1421

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  My first time... (GONTAREK)
  Evanston.results (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132)
  Counterflow Chiller Question + Where's my Glatt Mill? ("CANNON_TOM")
  Tried and True Porter Recipe Request (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Beginning Brewers (cush)
  Homebrew BBS's ( LARRY KELLY)
  Article (Ulysses Gallman)
  Software (Maj Don Staib )
  re Cl vs stainless (Chip Hitchcock)
  Ireks-Arkady Malt Extract (Thomas Aylesworth        )
  10 Gallon Coleman Water Cooler (jim robinson)
  Wiezen ideas (Carl Howes)
  pin fittings to ball kegs? (Gary Rich)
  Misc. (Mark Worwetz)
  Liquid Yeast (SOC)" <mendrick at chuma.cas.usf.edu>
  Specific Brass Alloys ("Palmer.John")
  Cookers (Wolfe)
  Never too long in the carboy ("Bob DelFavero")
  kegging carbonation (Bruce Wiggins)
  chlorine and you ("DANIEL HOUG")
  Where Do You Ferment Ales - Summary (wegeng.XKeys)
  Novice exotics/Exotic novices?! (pittock)
  wyeast scottish, the verdict from this court. (Rich Larsen)
  Re:Peanut Butter? (efrainm)
  New Yeast Faq Sent to Sierra (Patrick Weix)
  *.JPG Labels in Sierra (Mark Peacock)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 7:43:37 -0400 (EDT) From: GONTAREK at FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV Subject: My first time... Greetings to everyone in Homebrew Land! Well, after two years of extract brewing, I finally took the plunge over the weekend and made my first ALL-GRAIN brew. It was my first time..and yes, I even cried. Seriously, though, I have a few questions for the collective wisdom of the HBD. I made a golden ale using 8 lbs of pale malt, 0.5 lb of cara-pils, and about 4 ounces of crystal malt. Everything went smoothly (I didn't even destroy my kitchen...much to the pleasure of my wife!) during the mash and subsequent sparging. The sweet wort tasted great! After chilling and pouring into the fermenter, I read the original gravity and it was 1.037. My first question is: Is this an appropriate extraction rate for the given amount of grains? I couldn't find an answer in Papazian's book. Is there a chart somewhere that states ballpark o.g.'s for a given amount of grain? I know that this has been discussed before, but I blew past it since I was only an extract brewer. Secondly, for my first all-grain batch, I used a single-step infusion mash. From what I have read, a step-mash is preferred when using under-modified malts. Is American 2-row pale malt under- modified? How do I know when to use an infusion mash and when to use a temperature-step method? It is my understanding that one does a protein-rest during a step-mash in order to activate proteases that chop up proteins, thus making the beer clearer and ridding it of proteins. But aren't aplha- and beta- amylases proteins themselves? Yes, I know that they are, but why activate proteass when there are some proteins that we want to keep around? Maybe I am confused about this. Anyway, I would appreciate anyone answering my questions. Thanks in advance. BTW, I will post my first all-grain recipe when I know how good it turns out! Rick Gontarek Gontarek at ncifcrf.gov ps Making an all-grain brew certainly makes you feel more proud of your accomplishment! If anyone out there is hesitant to start all-graining, email me and I'll tell you how I did it cheaply! Return to table of contents
Date: 9 May 94 12:56:00 GMT From: mlm01 at intgp1.att.com (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132) Subject: Evanston.results CONGRATULATIONS! to the winners in the Evanston First Fifth Homebrew Challenge Best of Show Rosette ribbon & First Second Third gift certificate Dan Kasen Tom&Luann Steven Prentice award Vienna Fitzpatrick Herb Cream Ale Sweet Stout Rosette ribbon Fourth Fifth award Ray Daniels Tom&Luann Strong Scotch Fitzpatrick Ale Dopplebock CATAGORIES Ribbon Award First Place Second Place Third Place Light Lager Dan Kasen Ray Daniels Steve Prentice 11 Entries Vienna Oktoberfest Cream Ale Chicago, IL Chicago, IL Skokie, IL Dark Lager Tom&Luann Mike Montgomery Greg Onyshuck 7 Entries Fitzpatrick Trad. Bock Dark Lager Dopplebock Plainfield, IL Chicago, IL Aurora, IL Light Ale Ray Daniels Mike Montgomery Christopher Nemeth 30 Entries Strong Scotch American Pale Belgian Wit Ale Ale Chicago, IL Plainfield, IL Evanston, IL Dark Ale Tom&Luann Matt Sparami & Brad Reeg 24 Entries Fitzpatrick Mark Maltrich English Mild Sweet Stout Classic Stout Chicago, IL Aurora, IL Evanston, IL Mixed Steven Prentice Tom Keith William Lamb 15 Entries Classic Herb Classic Specialty Fruit Normal, IL Evanston, IL Evanston, IL Mixed - Specialty David Schoemaker Tom Keith Steve Thomas 7 Entries German Weizen Cyser Mead Melemel Mead Normal, IL Lincolnwood, IL Chicago, IL I have no affiliation with this event, just as a participant. Mike Montgomery mlm01 at intgp1.ih.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: 9 May 94 07:10:00 EST From: "CANNON_TOM" <CANNON_TOM at hq.navsea.navy.mil> Subject: Counterflow Chiller Question + Where's my Glatt Mill? Message Creation Date was at 9-MAY-1994 07:10:00 This summer we'll be making the move toward brewing in a 15.5 gallon converted keg on a King Kooker. Recently, out discussions have been on the thread "how to chill larger volumes". We've sort of settled on the Counterflow Wort Chiller concept, and the question is how best to procure or construct one. We're not afraid of spending money if a really good one (better than can be built) exists, but we are looking for the collective HBD wisdom on the best approach. Also, I put an order in at my local homebrew shop for a Glatt Mill last January. Whenever I check on it, the answer is always "I talked to the guys at Glatt, and they're in no hurry to send any". Has anybody out there got one recently? Are they still making them? I'd like to have firm information that I will not likely get one in the near future before I contact JS productions. Tom Cannon DH Brewery Fairfax/Annandale VA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 09:59:59 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Tried and True Porter Recipe Request We used this recipe in our club "brewola" last year. Got raves. It's a mellowish, easy drinking, but flavorful porter. The recipe is derived from Foster's "Blackbeard's Butt" recipe in the Porter book. Ann Arbor Brewers Guild Brewola Porter 5 gallons Extract | All-grain 6.6 lb pale malt syrup | 8.5 lb 2-row pale malt preferably English | preferably English .5 lb English crystal malt | .5 lb English crystal malt .25 lb chocolate malt | .25 lb chocolate malt .25 lb black patent malt | .25 lb black patent malt 2 oz Northern Brewer hops | 1 oz Northern Brewer hops 1 oz Tettnang hops | 1 oz Tettnang hops YeastLab London Ale yeast | YeastLab London Ale yeast | Steep grains in 2 qts water at | Mash grains at 151-153F (66-67C). 160F 30min, and strain into boiler. | Hop schedule: N Brewer for 60 min. Add water to 2 gallons. Bring to | Tettnang in two equal additions a boil and add malt syrup. Add NB | for 15 & 5 minutes. hops. Boil 30 minutes and add 1/2oz | Tettnang, boil 10 minutes and add | remaining Tettnang, boil 5 minutes. | Chill and add to cool water in | fermenter to make 5 gallons. | OG 1.051, bitterness 35 IBUs Gravity for all-grain version assumes you get 28 pt-gal/lb. Adjust pale malt accordingly to your system. =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 09:00:47 -0500 (CDT) From: cush at msc.edu Subject: Beginning Brewers Ok...I cannot resist chiming in on this topic. We have seen many comments on what level beginning brewers should brew at...many comments except the one I make here: Let the beginner decide! One person alluded to a cook not starting with chocolate souffle (I think). True, BUT: an experienced cook who has never cooked that souffle could likely do so after reading the directions once. People who are experienced with tinkering and cooking may be able to jump right in to all-grain with little difficulty. Others may need the learing curve that simple extract-based kits offer. ==> Usually they know who they are, and will operate at their comfort level. I know people who have gone in to all-grain from the first batch, and others who insist that they want to stay with relatively simple extract kits until they are comfortable with the process. We should (IMHO) assist people at the level THEY choose. Sure, there will be some outliers, and some people who get in to 'trouble', but what the hey - even that might be part of the way they choose to learn :-) - -- > Cushing Hamlen, Client Services | cush at msc.edu > Minnesota Supercomputer Center, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 May 1994 10:54:26 EDT From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY) Subject: Homebrew BBS's Does anyone out there have any Homebrew BBS phone numbers? Only if they support 9600 baud or higher! I'm looking for BBS's that have a good supply of recipes mainly. Larry Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 May 94 11:10:40 EDT From: Ulysses Gallman <IQC117 at URIACC.URI.EDU> Subject: Article Please send the article on : Microbrew beer/extract vs Grain HBD/Microbrewery(ST201811) ULYSSES (Uli) GALLMAN ,,, PO Box #5357 ( at at ) Wakefield,RI __oOO(--)OOo____ 02880 IQC117 at URIACC.URI.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 11:50:03 -0600 From: staib at oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don Staib ) Subject: Software Anyone out there in Brewland know of any shareware/software that can create images of the 2D holusion type? I think it would be fun to take some of the beer (mandatory content) graphics I have and create those hidden images for folks to try and "see" during a HB tasting. Thanks, The Braumeister in Layton, Utah! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 10:50:05 EDT From: cjh at diaspar.HQ.ileaf.com (Chip Hitchcock) Subject: re Cl vs stainless "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> writes: > Your local community swimming pools have at least as much > chlorine smell to the water as this concentration Smell isn't a very reliable calibrator. When I was a lifeguard (which included the hourly maintenance of Cl levels), 1ppm of chlorine was considered high. The recommended dilution of bleach for sanitizing is anything from 1 tablespoon to a quarter cup in 5 gallons, or 1:1920 - 1:320; I rather doubt that home bleach is only 2 parts per thousand chlorine. Or taking the calculation from the other direction: Smaller community pools used strong sodium hypochlorite solution (i.e., bleach) delivered by tank trucks, instead of the crystals used by home pools and the gas used by large pools. A ~50,000-gallon pool (25' x 50' x 5' (average depth)) \might/ have used 10 gallons of ]bleach[ on a \\very// hot 8-10--hour day; with lots of sun and lots of splashing to liberate chlorine, the level could drop to 0 in an hour if the chlorination pump broke, so figure only half of that gal/hr was actually active, giving a dilution somewhere around 1:100,000. Call it an order of magnitude more dilute than the low end for homebrewing to allow for the more concentrated solution. I can't challenge the metallurgical knowledge, but the analogy to swimming pools doesn't fly. (I would also have guessed, if a guess were demanded, that pool ladders are typically chrome-plated, but it's been a long time since I looked at one. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 11:11:08 EST From: Thomas Aylesworth <t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com> Subject: Ireks-Arkady Malt Extract Can anyone out there tell me their experiences using Ireks-Arkady's Amber LME? I am wondering what to expect for an o.g. using one 6.6 lb can of their extract in 5 gallons of wort. Also, any comments on taste, content, or fermentability of the extract would be appreciated. I am hoping that, this being a German extract, it will have used Munich or Vienna malts for the color, rather than the Crystal malts that are so prevalent in other malt extracts. Am I dreaming here? Anyone have any suggestions for other good German amber extracts? Thanks. - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Thomas Aylesworth | t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com Space Processor Software Engineering | Loral Federal Systems, Manassas, VA | (703) 367-6171 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 May 94 09:33:47 PST From: jim_robinson at ccmailsmtp.ast.com (jim robinson) Subject: 10 Gallon Coleman Water Cooler I just purchased a 10 Gallon Coleman Water cooler at Smart and Final (Lake Forest CA) for $22.95. Bright orange OSHA approved deal you put on the work truck. Yeah I know, I saw the postings about hot liquids and warranties in earlier HBD's, but such a deal. What I did (sneaky and underhanded) as a test was to add 5 Gallons of 160 degree WATER for 1.5 hours. Of course if it failed the acid test I would have to return if for "factory defects" ;-). I'm happy to report that after 1.5 hours the cooler walls were in perfect shape and the water temp drop was about 3 degrees. The Coleman has a kinda funky shape so the false bottom will be rounded off square. The spigot hole already has a pseudo bulk head fitting so putting in a brass fitting should be easy. Won't be mashing for a month or so, but I'll make sure to post if I suffer a catastrophic failure. Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 94 13:00:23 EDT From: sdlsb::73410 at sdlcc (Carl Howes) Subject: Wiezen ideas Spring has sprung, and it's time to brew a wiezen or three before summer activities end my brewing for a while. I have looked through CMII and found few tasting notes for the recipies there. What I am shooting for is something very close to Weihenstephan Hefe-Wiesbier. Oberdorfer and Tucher did not have enough body for my taste, and I've never cared much for Julius Echter (maybe it doesn't travel well). Private e-mail preferred to the address *below* (or I may not get your message). TIA. Carl 73410 at sdlcc.msd.ray.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 May 94 08:24:14 PDT From: Gary Rich <garyrich at qdeck.com> Subject: pin fittings to ball kegs? Dion was saying in response to someone wanting to adapt a pinlock keg to his ball lock fittings: Absolutely NOT!!! Coke produced the specifications for pin lock fittings specifically so that they had a proprietery size. No portions of any ball lock QD will mate to threads on any pin lock. This is a shame, since there are a number of fittings including NPT threads which go on the top of ball lock QD fittings which are not available for pin lock. I have talked extensively to the Hansen technical people (they make the pin lock fittings) and they had never thought to try to adapt some of the ball lock stuff to pin lock. They thought it would not work, and then tried it to make sure, and sure enough, it does not. I was afraid of that myself. I'm in the opposite situation. I had the great luck of winning one of those lovely 3 gallon ball lock kegs at the Temecula S. CA. Homebrewers Festival raffle a couple of weeks ago. Many people were waving $$ at my wife (you know who you are) when she went up to trade the ticket for it. If there's no other way I will buy this keg his very own set of ball lock fittings but I'd like to avoid it if possible. Does the above "NOT!!" apply to going this direction as well? Everything else I have is pin lock and if nothing else, changing hoses on the CO2 tank back and forth is a pain. Since this little jewel will fit in the kitchen fridge I'm determined to make it work one way or the other. ============================ Chris Pencis was looking for a tried and true porter recipe. You said you had looked through the Cat's Meow. Look again at the Tina Marie Porter recipe. This one is great, though arguable not really a porter (lets not start that again...). My last go at this recipe added Redhook yeast, dry hopping with Styrian Goldings and bottle primed with Lyle's Black Treacle. It was awesome. It's an all grain recipe but should be easy to modify to partial mash. - Gary Rich - garyrich at qdeck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 09:02:41 -0600 (MDT) From: Mark_Worwetz at Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz) Subject: Misc. Howdy from Zion! A few thoughts: To: PNEUMAND Nice to see your first post, but couldn't find your NAME! Don't worry about making a ultra-light beer, just do what the big boys suggest: Get some EXCERSICE by playing on the beach with bikini-clad babes, or go skiing off a high rise, or go climbing up a mountain, or shovel snow off a billboard, etc. you don't see fat people in their commercials, do you? To: Robb Harris Sounds like you have discovered why Bugs Bunny (TM) was such a wild, party kind of guy. High-octane carrot juice! Perhaps you could call it BunnyBrau (TM). In regards to the wort chilling with less water, try filling your sink with a bag of ice and cold water. Then use a pump to recirculate the water through your chiller. I am only a partial boiler, but this will chill 3 gallons of wort for only $1 of ice and three gallons of water. The warmed water is then used to wash the brewpot and other stuff. If you live in a dry climate, a swamp-cooler pump is ideal and pretty cheap. Calmly enjoying spring and a homebrew in Utarrr, Mark Worwetz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 15:44:45 -0400 (EDT) From: "Jon Mendrick (SOC)" <mendrick at chuma.cas.usf.edu> Subject: Liquid Yeast In regards to Eric Tilbrook's comments on liquid yeast, I must say that I have experienced the same results. I recently brewed some immitation Newcastle with London Ale liquid yeast and let me tell you this: I had alien objects floating in my carboy for 5-6 days. The stench of the yeast filled my closet for a week. The primary ferment didn't even start for 3 days, although it did eventually take off and lasted 5 days. However, I haven't tried it yet, so I have no idea if liquid yeast is better than dried yeast. The guys at the Brew Shack here in Tampa told me that it was better. They haven't steered me wrong yet, so I have to believe them. I'll wait and see! Return to table of contents
Date: 9 May 1994 08:50:03 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Specific Brass Alloys Dave Suurballe wrote: >I have just learned that the brass I use is: >ASTM B-16 Alloy 360 and >ASTM B-453 Alloy 353 or 345. Okay Dave, What you want to look at here are the alloy #s, the 360, 353 and 345. The ASTM Spec.s just tell you to what specification the alloys are Produced to. Its the other numbers that specify the composition. So, going back to the UNS table I posted, for example: UNS C36000 is alloy 360 from above. The C stands for Copper and the folks at UNS add two zeros to make the designation length agree with other alloys, such as steels which use the last two places to indicate grade or temper. So, 360 is UNS C36000 and has 3% lead. 353 is C35300 at 1.8% lead and 345 is C34500 at 2% . John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com OR palmer#d#john.ssd-hb_#l#15&22#r# at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: 9 May 94 08:53 CST From: Wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Subject: Cookers My 15.5 gallon SS boiler is almost ready for action. I need some info though: 1) Where can I get neoprene washers? I don't want to weld the nipple on. I was told that neoprene would be water tight and that it would withstand the heat of the boil. Unfortunately, I can't find any. 2) Anyone with experience with the various burners, please send me information about your satisfaction. I'm particularly interested in people who have used a burner with a 15.5 gallon SS keg setup (BTUs, time to bring 10 gallons to boil, cost, how well it fits the bottom of the boiler, where I can get one). I'd also like to hear from anyone who has experience and/or insights about how to set up a ventilation system for using one of these oxygen suckers in a basement. Send private email to: Ed Wolfe wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 May 94 15:18:39 From: "Bob DelFavero" <delf at microrim.com> Subject: Never too long in the carboy pqmertz at fergus.cfa.com wrote to ask if he should bother with a beer that's been in the secondary since January. I'd say go for it, but don't expect it to be the best beer you ever made. I recently bottled a batch that spent 13 months in the secondary, and it's come out just fine. Here's what I'd do: First, inspect it and taste it. If it's not visibly contaminated and doesn't taste off, pat yourself on the back for your good sanitation and then make up a yeast starter and add it to the bottling bucket along with your priming sugar. Bottle as usual. I actually had two batches that sat side by side for 13 months. One picked up some sort of mold and had to be used as bathtub ring remover. The batch that I bottled has a little more sediment than I usually see, and the carbonation and head retention are on the low side, but I underprimed so I'm not entirely willing to blame the long secondary time for that. The beer was a very hoppy IPA type, and the long aging has mellowed the hop bite, but it's still a very drinkable, hoppy beer. Robert Del Favero The Bunny Brewery Bellevue, WA delf at microrim.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 May 1994 15:40:48 -0500 (EST) From: Bruce Wiggins <FAC_BWIGGINS at VAX1.ACS.JMU.EDU> Subject: kegging carbonation I have just started kegging my brew, and would like to ask any experienced keggers out there: how long does it take to force-pressurize a 5-gal batch of refrigerator-temperature beer? I have tried using 10 psi, and this seems to take days to get good carbonation. When I put more pressure on it (20-25 psi), it tends to over-carbonate. What is the optimum pressure/time for force-carbonation? Thanks in advance! Bruce Wiggins (aka Brew Swiggins) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 15:10:57 CST From: "DANIEL HOUG" <HOUGD at mdh-bemidji.health.state.mn.us> Subject: chlorine and you Here's some facinating (ack) info on chlorine for your perusal or rejection. First off, a reader queried as to what the advantage of Chlorinated Trisodium Phosphate might be over regular chlorine rinse-- probably the major one is that TSP is a good cleaner for many types of residue and a clean surface is absolutely necessary for proper sanitizing. If your articles to be sanitized are clean, then there is little advantage. Second, here are some relative concentrations of free chlorine for comparison purposes: chlorinated public water= typically 0.5-1.0 PPM swimming pools= 1.0-3.0 but as high as 10 PPM in Europe restaraunt sanitizing in three compartment sink= 50 PPM Chemical test papers that indicate the PPm of chlorine in solution (10 to 200 ppm range) are availablefrom National Chemicals Inc. 1-800-533-0027 (NOT an endorsement, just a source) and are about a buck for a vial of a 100 or so. Note: nearly EVERYBODY uses chlorine in excess of the amount needed to sanitize (50PPM) so these test strips are interesting to use to see how little bleach it really takes. Third, I stupidly left about 1/2 cup of bleach mixed with about 1 gallon water stand in my Cornelius keg for a month or so (under CO2 pressure no less). The corrosive environment with -lots- of contact time DID perforate the stainless steel so now I can shoot a very fine stream out of my keg about 15 feet! Not cool. However, incidental sanitizing of your stainless/aluminum/ brass(!) parts followed by a rinse is perfectly acceptable. This rinse could even be optional if it weren't for the undesireable effects upon taste of beverage. Restaraunts have been doing so for years with no ill effects upon their equipment, state rules even require the sanitizing rinse to be the LAST step in the wash, rinse, sanitize process. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 14:07:59 PDT From: wegeng.XKeys at xerox.com Subject: Where Do You Ferment Ales - Summary A week ago I asked about where people ferment ales. Most of the replies discussed fermenting in rooms that were between 60 and 70 degrees F, such as bathrooms, kitchens, home offices, and basements. Most replies also discussed blocking light through the use of dark rooms, blankets, towels, and paper bags. A couple people mentioned that the fermentation temperature will not necessarily be the same as the ambient air temperature, sine fermentation gives off heat. Someone also mentioned that a concrete floor may be cooler than the ambient air, which would tend to lower the temperature in the fermenter. Many thanks to everyone who replied. /Don dlw.xkeys at xerox.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 May 1994 12:58:06 +1000 From: pittock at rsbs2.anu.edu.au Subject: Novice exotics/Exotic novices?! Continuing the current thread: >Some random comments from the Miskatonic Zythepsary: > >Jeff Benjamin wondered why novice homebrewers don't just do "simple stuff" >and stay away from the "complicated" recipes with spices, herbs, peanut >butter, etc. Well, gee, Jeff, speaking as a novice ... It's my homebrew, >why shouldn't I screw it up royally if I want to? To add my 2c worth (US 1.5c) to the "novice brewers doing their wild thing": I was quite preoccupied with brewing stout (extract style) whilst I was starting out. I experimented with using a Coopers Stout kit, plus adding varying amounts of light and dark malt extracts. Then I wanted to make a seriously gutsy stout so got into using 500g of Malto-dextrin (non-fermentable). The exotic twist came with the addition of one seed from "star anise" (aniseed used in asian cooking) into each bottle (750ml). At a month in the bottle the brew took on a delicate aniseed/licorice palate - not quite identifiable to the unknowing, but noticable as "interesting". As the brew aged/evolved, the aniseed palate strengthened. At 18 months the last bottle was downed at a special occasion - a small glass each was quite enough! It became a cross between a respectable stout and the liquor ouzo. I don't intend on repeating it - but it was a turning point for a kit brewer. That brew put me on the trail to mashing (every kit brewer MUST try a partial mash - it changes your perception of what homebrew can be!) The legend of the aniseed stout lives on in the hearts and minds of those from Monash University Dept Genetics. Chris Pittock. |\___/\___ | o \ | Wibble -------- | _________/ |/ /| / | / | /| _______________/ |__ / | __/ ------------ | / { at } | /.. Bruce | . VVvvvvvvv\ )) | ___///_ / | ___ | o< /o \// AAA^^^^^^/ ___-------- \ | o< )____ __/\\ \_____________\ \------- \| o< \\ \ \__\ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 14:37:05 -0500 (CDT) From: Rich Larsen <richl at access1.speedway.net> Subject: wyeast scottish, the verdict from this court. In HBD1416 dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Writes, responding to me : > Hi All, > > In HBD#1415, Rich Larsen continues the discussion of Wyeast Scottish: > >>Perhaps it is the yeast itself. The effect went away after about a week >>more in the keg. In short the yeast settled out. I would suspect that the >>concentration of the yeast in suspension from your "secondary" sample, would >>be as high or higher than my impatient tapping of the keg. > > I suspect it does have something to do with the yeast. I was going to >post, asking about the flocculation characteristics of this yeast. After >8 days in primary, I racked to secondary and left it for another 18 days. >Despite the lengthy secondary, the beer was quite cloudy at that point, it >seems to be a very poor flocculator. I should add the wort was crystal >clear going into the fermenter. > I placed the keg in a fridge at 40F, figuring that a period of cold >conditioning would help settle out the yeast. After about a week, I tapped >it. The beer had cleared considerably, I consumed a pint, and felt fine the >next day. Well the verdict is in, on a re-trial anyway. Batch 2, made with the dregs of the previous batch was consumed by several knowlegable homebrewers. I should note, several gallons were consumed. I had at least 8 pints during the course of the day, as did the other guests. In fact, I had to suggest that we switch to the case of special micros (Thanks Andy!) so the homebrew would make it through the evening. Anyway to make a long story longer, after at least 10 hours of partying and drinking mostly the homebrew, I woke up the next day, after only 6 hours of sleep, feeling fine, feeling perfect, feeling better than when I went to bed (that IS the point of sleep isn't it :-) ) In fact I was feeling so good, I was ready to go again after breakfast. So it aint the yeast's fault in the previous batch. A few notes about the second batch, SG 1070 FG 1014! Fermented perhaps a bit lower, low to mid 60sF. Beautiful strawberry ester in the pitcher from the keg, mighty caramel flavor, with a tad of roasted barley. An EXCELLENT beer! If anyone wants the recipe, E-mail me and I will oblige, if enough requests I'll post. SO.... do not discount the Wyeast Scottish. It makes a wonderful brew, it attenuates like gangbusters and clears fairly quickly. If you watch the fermentation temperature, I think you will do ok with this yeast. => Rich Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514 The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL (Not a commercial establishment) "I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 May 94 00:37:08 EDT From: efrainm at aol.com Subject: Re:Peanut Butter? I wouldn't suggest it. You'll get a nice oil slick on your brew, probably no head either. If you don't mind greasy beer go for it,maybe you can call it the Exxon Valdez Pale Ale. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 22:28:17 -0700 (PDT) From: weix at netcom.com (Patrick Weix) Subject: New Yeast Faq Sent to Sierra Hi all, I finally stopped procrastinating about the yeast faq ( I am now procrastinating about something else which is why I was working on the Yeast Faq), and the new Yeast Faq is now at sierra. It is updated to include the new Brewtek, Yeast Lab, and Wyeast strains. As always, I would love to hear about any and all terrific yeast news. Patrick weix at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: 09 May 94 21:55:53 -0500 From: Mark.Peacock at f22.n2201.z1.fidonet.org (Mark Peacock) Subject: *.JPG Labels in Sierra Re: *.JPG Labels in Sierra Archive Can someone please explain what format .JPG is? Thanks, Mark Peacock - --- WM v2.09/91-0150 Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1420, 05/10/94