HOMEBREW Digest #1453 Sat 18 June 1994

Digest #1452 Digest #1454

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Cloudy beer (Alexander J Ramos)
  sources for malted barley (SIMJONES)
  Early Blooming Hallertau Hops (Mark Evans)
  Spruce Extracts (Alan_Deaton_at_CTC)
  CPR cpvers homebrew (Aaron Birenboim)
  RE: Alt Bier Yeast (Jim Busch)
  Aflatoxin in moldy grain ("Jeff M. Michalski, MD")
  Yeasty beer/Malt liquor (Philip Gravel)
  Propane burners/Grain mill shipping (Philip Gravel)
  Filtration (George J Fix)
  Alternative to dry hopping ?? (keith.prader)
  Starter Media Again (Jeff Frane)
  Fw: Fw: Fw: Internet Virus Alert (Jim Brewster)
  cancel article 06161050.1152 (Jim Brewster)
  Filters and clarification (keith.prader)
  What's this fuzzy stuff? (Karl Elvis MacRae)
  Kingfisher Beer and Mark Garetz's Book (Jack Skeels)
  Australian Pubs (Robert Pryor)
  re:somebody help me dryhop.. (Steven B Gruver)
  Rightful brewing (Ilkka Sysil{)
  dryhopping/oak in IPAs/bottle bombs (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Disinfectant (fischer)
  king kookers (Btalk)
  Good Baltimore Microbrew Pub (e048???? - Dan Bethke)
  1st Annual State Fair of TEXAS H (Ken Haycook)
  Brass vs. Plastic Valves ("JAMES W. KEESLER")
  Montreal Beer Fest (Richard Nantel)
  Floaters Solved by Cold and Drinking ("Andrew C. Winner")
  A dry hopped beer with really nice legs ("Steven W. Smith")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 09:08:10 -0400 From: Alexander J Ramos <geotex at eecs.umich.edu> Subject: Cloudy beer Greetings: I have been brewing for about 2 years now (from extracts) and I am very happy with my finished products. A problem that I have been unable to beat thus far, however is getting the beer clear. Here is a quick overview of my process: Boil Chill with immersion chiller Filter through mesh collander into primary (poured through) When primary fermentation stops, rack to secondary. When beer clears in secondary, rack to bucket, bottle. I am not using any agents to help clear the beer right now. Does anyone have any suggestion on how to get my beer from being cloudy? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 10:19:05 -0400 (AST) From: SIMJONES at Upei.CA Subject: sources for malted barley Finally time to get into all grain brewing. Could someone direct me to a supplier of malted grains in Atlantic Canada or New England. Many Thanks. Simon Jones (SIMJONES at UPEI.CA) AVC, UPEI Charlottetown, PEI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 08:29:55 -0600 From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans) Subject: Early Blooming Hallertau Hops I have a hallertau vine that is showing some very early, very healthy looking hop cones. This seems a bit strange. At least a bit early. I guess the obvious course of action is to lower the poles and harvest the cones when ready. Is anyone else experiencing such an early produce of cones? What varieties? Where are you located? This pole has 3-5 hallertau vines on it but only one is conin' out. None of my Mt. Hood or Saaz are doing it. I'm hoping that I can harvest and then reset the pole for a second (and third?) harvest in August/September when they usually produce. E-me with your hoppy experiences. Also, anyone do the fish emulsion spray route to control pests/fertilize? Brewfully yours in the Midwest (where high temps are challenging my abilities to brew heat wave ales.) Mark Evans ================================================================= | Mark Evans Dubuque, Iowa | | Practitioner of | * | Visual, Literary, and Zymurgistic arts | * | Evanms at LCAC1.Loras.edu | | 319-582-3139 | ================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 07:58:05 From: Alan_Deaton_at_CTC at relay.aar.com Subject: Spruce Extracts Text item: Untitled I just read mr. 00rjzakjr's posting about his success with brewing spruce beer using bottled spruce essence. I feel the need to clarify something. In Charlie's book, the recipe calls for 1/2 bottle spruce essence. Beware, different manufacturers produce different concentrations of spruce in their extracts. A couple of years ago I brewed a batch of spruce beer. I followed Charlie's recipe to the letter, however, having relaxed with perhaps a few too many homebrews previous to brewing, I failed to notice the manufacturers recommenation on the back of the bottle instructing me to use 1 ~ 1 1/2 tablespoons per 5 gallon batch. Since then I have seen the very same spruce essence in more than one size of bottle at my local supply store. As Tom Waits says, "The large print giveth and the small print taketh away." The result of this oversight was 576 ounces of a fluid that resembled Pine-Sol in all ways except cleansing power and public ridicule which continues to this day when I make any mention of beers with non-stanard ingredients. The point is this: Be careful with spruce. I'm sure it can add a wonderful new dimension to homebrew, but it must be used in the same moderation that homebrew is consumed while brewing. One last thing, I have been forbid from brewing any more spruce beer. If there is anybody in the Chicago area who would be willing to trade some spruce beer for some magnificent honey ale, let me know. I'll do the driving. I would like to know what a good one tastes like. "It would have been O.K. if it had cleaned the stains off the kithcen counter" -The woman I love /Alan Deaton alan_deaton at relay.aar.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 94 08:05:47 MDT From: abirenbo at redwood.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) Subject: CPR cpvers homebrew On my way to work, Colorado public radio did a nice piece on homebrewing. Featured was one of the newer members of the Unfermentables John Barnholt. John, you came across great. He's been brewing about a year, and is active in the steering commitee of the Unfermentables,\ and will be head organizer of our competition this fall. He took the reporter through a specialty and extract stout brewing session, and mande some nice comments on beer and beer style in general. Also featured was Mark Evanson, owner fo the areas oldest brewing shop,k and if I'm not mistaken, the voices of Andy (dangit andy... whats your last name), Jim Edgins, and others while judging at nationals. I was there, and never noticed any reporters, outside of one from what's brewing magazine... a local beer publication (and some folks from the AHA). It was aa good piece, saying mainly that HB ain't what it used to be. They're making GOOD beer now, and forcint the biggies like COORS to take notice. They also interviewed a bewer from coors who was judging. I don't remember the name. However, Alex, a quality-control guy at coors has been very nice to the Unfermentables, and judged at competitions. He could be considered a "professional pallate". aaron Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 10:19:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: RE: Alt Bier Yeast Roger writes: > Subject: Re: Will the real Alt yeast please stand up > > The latest, just-arrived issue of ZYMURGY lists Wyeast 1338 as being a > true Dusseldorf Altbier strain. It lists 1007 as being a Kolsch yeast. > Several different articles in Zymurgy, by different authors, have said > the same things. I believe the Zymurgy articles, even though the Wyeast > folks themselves disagree. (Hence part of the confusion here.) I have > read elsewhere that the new Wyeast Kolsch yeast (without the starter) is > a strain newly brought over from Cologne. > > Wyeast 1338 *DOES* leave high residual maltiness. This is how you get a > good malt profile in a medium-gravity (1048 max) brew. It is necessary to It is always difficult to determine the real sources of strains as they move through the yeast industry. It makes it quite hard for the home- brewer to make intelligent choices. Several times one of our local micros have used the Weihenstephan Alt yeast. I have also used this same strain from the local micro. The yeast *will not* flocculate. This subject was brought up to the yeast bank folks at Weihenstephan and thier answer was that this is *the* Alt yeast and tough, it wont flocc. This apparently is a non issue in Germany where the vast majority of Alts are filtered beers. Unfortuneatly, our local "German" micro no longer has a filter. So, I ask, do any of these "Alt" yeasts sold by the yeast suppliers flocc? If they do, I would be suspect of the "authenticity" at least in terms of what is used Dusseldorf. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 94 09:53:43 -0500 From: "Jeff M. Michalski, MD" <michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu> Subject: Aflatoxin in moldy grain >Rich (who undoubtedly is paying attention in that Siebel class) writes: > >>Mildewed or moldy grain may be growing Aspergillus, which is a source of >>Alphatoxins. This substance is a known carcinagen... something I don't >>think you'll want in your beer. > >Someone check me on this, but I believe that not all Aspergillus is nasty. >I believe that some form of Aspergillus is what is used to make Sake. > >You have to be careful with that class, Rich. You would not be the first >person I know to come out of it with "Chicken Little Syndrome" (the sky >is falling!). One person I know who took that class now smells diacetyl >in every beer. Isn't it Al Korz who said that holding a mouthful of brandy in your mouth will kill you? Aspergillus species are common fungi that are ubiquitous in our environment. Various types can be found on our skin, ears, or in soil. A. flavus, the species that makes aflatoxin, is a mold found on peanuts, corn, and *GRAIN*. >From Dorland's medical dictionary: AFLATOXIN "a toxic factor produced by aspergillus flavus...in experimental animals it causes liver necrosis, bile duct proliferation, and cirrhosis, and on prolonged administration, leads to hepatocellular carcinoma and cholangiocarcinoma. It has also been implicated as a cause of human hepatic carcinoma." There have been reports of communities in eastern Europe/Russia that have been struck with epidemics of liver injury and death after the harvesting of grain that had been left in field too long that resulted in the development of A. flavus infection on the grain. My advice is never use moldy grain in the fabrication of anything for human consumption. I don't even eat moldy peanuts! Al, no flame intended, but leave the medical stuff to health professionals and stick to your area of expertise. JEFF M. MICHALSKI michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 22:06:07 -0500 (CDT) From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel) Subject: Yeasty beer/Malt liquor In HOMEBREW Digest #1449 dated Tue 14 June 1994, ** from David Rodger >I'm a relatively new brewer, with 4 batches of extract completed, and I'm >noticing a strong "yeasty" nose to all the ones that I've tasted so >far. >Questions: > >2. Here's my current process, using only a plastic primary fermenter. > Day of brewing: > --------------- > Boil wort > Sparge wort thru to plastic fermenter > cool wort > pitch yeast > > Wait for primary fermentation to complete: (3-5 days?) > ------------------------------------------ > bottle Why not wait for a few more days before bottling to allow more yeast to settle? I ferment one week in a primary and one week in a secondary and my beers don't have any yeast smell to them. >And, this is what I think is recommended: >Day of brewing: >- --------------- >Boil wort >Sparge wort thru to plastic fermenter >cool wort >pitch yeast >siphon from plastic bucket to glass carboy; aeration is ok > >Next Day: >- --------- >Rack from carboy back to plastic bucket (do not aerate the wort) > >Wait for primary fermentation to complete: (3-5 days?) >- ------------------------------------------ >Rack from plastic bucket to carboy >let settle out (1-5 days?) Too much handling, in my opinion. Why not just do a primary fermentation the plastic bucket. After the vigorous fermentation has subsided, rack the beer to the glass carboy and let it sit in there for another week or so. By this method, you will separate the beer from most of the trub in the primary and allow time for any additional fermentation to take place and for the yeast to further settle. ** William_L._King asks: >Here is an easy question that has bothered me: What is the difference between >malt liquor and beer (ale and lager)? No, it's not a joke, though some of the >labels on ML sure are! Malt liquors have a higher alcohol content than beers. Apparently some regulations require that the alcohol content not exceed some level in order to be called a beer. Hence the need for the name "malt liquor". - -- Phil _____________________________________________________________ Philip Gravel pgravel at mcs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 22:02:22 -0500 (CDT) From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel) Subject: Propane burners/Grain mill shipping In HOMEBREW Digest #1450 dated Wed 15 June 1994, ** Steve Christiansen asks: >I would like to increase my brewing capacity to 10 gallon batches >using a converted keg for a kettle. Obviously when I do, my electric >stove won't cut it any more, so I've been looking at propane cookers. > >How many BTUs are enough? I need enough heat to bring 12 gallons of >150F runnings to boiling by the time the sparge is done, but I don't >want to burn up mass quantities of gas generating more heat than I need. > >I've seen two brands of big cookers in local discount stores, the >170,000 BTU King Kooker, and a 140,000 BTU cooker from Camp Chef (#SH-140L). >Any pros or cons about these? One negative comment I have heard about these kinds of burners is the lack of adjustment control on the flame. Either they are on full or if you try to throttle them, you get a yellow, sooty flame. Someone (I can't find the post now), suggests a smaller burner (35-50K K BTU) that has better flame adjustment. As a point of reference, the poster said that a typical burner on a gas range produces about 9-12K BTU. ** Rich Ryan said: At the risk of adding more fuel to the neverending grain mill debate... >>Jack said, >> >>The "manufacturer" (that's me) received complete restitution from UPS for >> the damage and to imply that it was an "initial" attempt to slough off >> production problems on shipping damage is less than unkind. > >That's funny, I had a feeling you would say that. At least you staying with >the same story you told him. I'm glad you've cleared up your production >problems. Given Jack's description of the damage to the product, do you **really** think Jack would knowingly have shipped it that way???!!! Knowing the pride that people (Jack and others) have in the products they sell to the people in this field and their participation in the discussions here, do you think any of them would ship such an obviously defective product??? - -- Phil _____________________________________________________________ Philip Gravel pgravel at mcs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 94 10:47:11 -0500 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Filtration Jim Busch reports: >Phil writes: >> >> I have been pretty successful filtering some of my beers using a >> cartridge filter. (You know the one which is about 12" high, popularized >> by "The Filter Store", also used by home applications like Teledyne). >> >> When I bought it, it came with a 0.5 micron filter. (Great for light >> lagers, filters haze, all yeast and even some bacteria). From a local >> hardware store I got a 5 micron water filter (sometime used on some >> darker beers, gets out any junk, but does not filter chill haze or bacteria). >> >> What I am looking for is a 3 micron filter (recommended by George Fix). >> Dr. Fix says that it is a good compromise filtering out haze and large >> amounts of yeast but not too much body. Does anyone out there know of a >> source for a filter of this size? (3 micron) Thanks!! Jim responds: >George uses a different kind of filter than a cartridge. Its pretty >hard to find a 3 micron cart filter with the required efficiency numbers. >The Filter Store does sell a 5 micron high efficiency cart filter, its >about $22 versus $31 for the .5 . You are quite right, 5 (and 3) microns >will not remove haze and bacteria, at least completely. Some haze will >be reduced, but I suspect if you have a large chill haze problem, 3 is >not going to resolve this. It was my understanding that 3/5 is real good >for a polished product, free of most (over 95%) of the yeast biomass. >The 5's from the HW store are just not that good, the efficiency is too >low. It is good for a one shot disposable yeast filter. A professional >DE filter is good to around 5-7 microns, and if this is good enough for >my favorite micros, its good enough for me. >Lots has been said about the use of large amounts of IM, rehydrated. I >think this is a good idea along with some aging, and a 5 micron filter. >(if you want real clear beers). I completely agree with Jim's conclusions, particularly with the IM/coarse filter combination for beer clarification. Filtration is one of the topics I want to treat in my talk at the AHA conference next week. What I will mainly do is show some slides of various configurations, and to present data showing how beer is affected (SG, color, protein levels, et al) at various micron sizes. Conceptually there are two types of filtration. One is what I call a collinear system where the velocity field of the beer to be filtered is collinear with the velocity field of the filtered beer. Examples commonly found in micros include sheet filters using DE (vertical flow), and plate and frame filters (horizontal flow). An alternative is provided by cross flow cartridge filters, where the filtered beer flows at (roughly) right angles to the beer to be filtered. It is my opinion that cartridge filtration is the most rational and effective of the two types. I currently have a graduate student doing computer simulations of the two types of flow fields (using the two phase incompressible Navier-Stokes equations), and with every criterion we are using to evaluate the two flow fields the cartridge/cross flow configuration is winning hands down. My own filtration system is built around cartridges I purchased from Zahm and Nagel. They are not the only firm that sells cartridges for small scale pilot systems, and indeed I am aware of at least four others. (I will bring a complete list to Denver). I have three of Z+N's reusable cartridges. One is made of porcelain and is rated at 3 microns. The other two are stainless and are rated at 1 and .45 microns, respectively. (The latter is used only to generate data for presentations, and to convince clients that they do not want to get involved with submicron filtration!). The reusable cartridges specifically designed for brewing do cost more than the ones found in many homebrew outlets. However, when evaluating this longevity should be taken into account; e.g., I got mine in 1978 and they have been performing reliably ever since. Rodney Morris has informed me that the micron ratings of some the filters sold in homebrew shops are way off the mark. He found that some ".5 micron" filters were in fact effectively 7-10 micron filters and conversely. These are not necessarily inferior products, and indeed he gives most good marks assuming the actual micron rating is acceptable. The differences apparently come from termnology different from what is standard in brewing. In any case, I will give some ideas in my talk at Denver on how we can estimate the actual micron ratings of our own filters. In addition, I am going to work on Rodney to do an article for BT or Zymurgy on this subject. George Fix Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Jun 94 08:28:47 -0800 From: keith.prader at wtgw.worldtalk.com Subject: Alternative to dry hopping ?? Has anyone ever made a hop tea and added it at priming time before bottling?? I had a freind suggest this as an alternative to dry hopping. They said to steep about 1 oz. of hops in 2 pints of water for 10 minutes. By all means do not let it boil. Let it cool and add it to your cooled priming solution immediately before bottling. My results were a _VERY_ hopped up beer. Did I use too many hops? Perhaps the steeping temp was too high ? If anybody could post/send any info on dry hopping and alternatives that would be great. Keith Prader keith at worldtalk.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 08:54:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Frane <gummitch at teleport.com> Subject: Starter Media Again Gary Kuyat is speculating: > > BTW, did you ever tast Wyest starter culture pack stuff? It is NASTY! What > ever is in there probably isn't hops, but it's not just sugar water! I'd bet > it's some kind of bacteria inhibiting agent. Any comment from Wyeast? > Gary is right, the stuff tastes pretty bad. But... nyet hops and inhibition is not the concern. All that media is autoclaved (twice, as I recall). The extra stuff in the media is for enhanced yeast growth. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 18:40:59 -0500 From: jmb31 at cornell.edu (Jim Brewster) Subject: Fw: Fw: Fw: Internet Virus Alert >Contents: >Fw: Fw: Fw: Internet Virus Alert ("Charles R. Smith" <crs6 at cornell.edu>) > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 16:48:43 -0400 >From: "Charles R. Smith" <crs6 at cornell.edu> >Subject: Fw: Fw: Fw: Internet Virus Alert > >Cayugabirders: > >Take note of the following alert. >------------------------------ >From: "Stephen DeGloria" <sdd4 at cornell.edu> >Wed, 15 Jun 1994 08:21:38 -0400 >To: Multiple recipients of list <cugis-l at cornell.edu> >Subject: Fw: Fw: Internet Virus Alert > >====================================================================== >IMPORTANT!!! >=============================== >Internet Virus Alert > >A Virus has been discovered on Internet that is disguised as CD-ROM >shareware. Unknown hackers have illegally put the Chinon name on a >destructive shareware file and released it on the Internet. This >catastrophic virus is named "CD-IT". -- DO NOT DOWNLOAD. IT WILL >CORRUPT YOUR HARD DRIVE. The program, allegedly a shareware PC utility >that will convert an ordinary CD-ROM drive into a CD-Recordable (CD-R) >device, which is technically impossible, instead destroys critical >system files on a user's hard drive. The program also immediately >crashes the CPU, forces the user to reboot and stays in memory. > ***** WIDEST DISSEMINATION IS REQUESTED ***** >[These programs make their way to the local BBS systems in no time, so >even if you aren't directly on the Internet, keep an eye out for this >one. -Ed.] >====================================================================== >----------------------------------------------------------------------- >Stephen D. DeGloria SCAS/CfE/CLEARS >158 Emerson Hall 607 255 6328 voice >Cornell University 607 255 6143 fax >Ithaca, NY 14853 USA sdd4 at cornell.edu e-mail >----------------------------------------------------------------------- >********************************************************************** > Charles R. Smith > NY Cooperative Fish and Wildlife Research Unit > National Biological Survey, Department of Natural Resources > Fernow Hall, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853-3001, USA > Voice: 607-255-3219 FAX: 607-255-1895 > Internet: crs6 at cornell.edu >********************************************************************* > >------------------------------ >End of Digest >************************ > > Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 12:55:44 -0500 From: jmb31 at cornell.edu (Jim Brewster) Subject: cancel article 06161050.1152 cancel article 06161050.1152 Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Jun 94 08:00:57 -0800 From: keith.prader at wtgw.worldtalk.com Subject: Filters and clarification In HBD 1449 Phil Brushaber was trying to locate a certain filter for his brew filtering. This has made me curious as to filtering methods and filters that the HBD'ers use. I would like to start a thread on filters and the related topics. I think that there is some good info out there for the people like myself who are always looking for a means to get a nice clear beer but have minimal knowledge on the subject. Keith Prader keith at worldtalk.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 94 10:00:22 PDT From: Karl Elvis MacRae <batman at cisco.com> Subject: What's this fuzzy stuff? Well, I've got my first batch in bottles, carbonating happily away, and a second batch in the primary. So last night, I decided to sample a bottle, to see if all was well. ...And I find that, in addition to the sediment in the bottom, there's some weird coating on ths inside of the bottles. Not much; it really only is enought to make it look like haze, which is what I thought it was until I picked up the one clear-glass bottle I used. No, there's some coating there. The beer *tastes* fine; but it's *very* hoppy (It's a basic bitter, and a little *too* heavy on the hops), so I can't tell if there are any weird flavors hiding under there. But there are none of the usual off flavors I've read about; no skunkiness, no fruityness, no cardboard flavor... So, does this sound like a contamination? Or is this just part of the beer clearing? (It's been in bottles for about 1.5 weeks) -Karl - -- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Karl Elvis MacRae Software Engineer Cisco Systems, Menlo Park, CA, USA batman at cisco.com 415-688-8231 DoD#1999 1993 Vulcan Eighty-Eight -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- "Hi, you look different! Are you a puppet?" -Barb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 94 12:45 EST From: Jack Skeels <0004310587 at mcimail.com> Subject: Kingfisher Beer and Mark Garetz's Book Greetings! I just saw the post on Mark Garetz's book, and I'd like to chime in with my first impressions (I've only read it once, and it three times with Miller before I REALLY understood). I think that the book is worth the money. I got the book for $14.95 + tax from my local shop, Brewbuddy's (no affiliation with either, yet....) In particular I really liked the hop-type reference section. He has done some really good work at collating basic information about different hops, the beers that they are good for, and plausible substitutes. I plan to use the book when I visit Brewbuddy's as they ALWAYS seem to be out of the hop that I need, and I am forced to substitute (sometimes with very poor results). Mark's book would have saved me much frustration. I haven't really delved into his formulas yet, so I won;t comment on them except to say that he seems to provide ample discussion. In general, he writes with a pretty even-handed style, like his do-what-you-like-best approach to things such as aroma hopping techniques. The sections on the history, growing, care and packaging of hops are well-written and informative. FWIW, I recommend the book. ** (thanks Norm!) Does anyone have an all-grain recipe for Kingfisher? I don't mean the bland, worn-out stuff that one usually encounters by the bottle in the US, I mean the rich yummy version that one finds on tap in better Indian restaurants in the UK. Last time I was in London I couldn't get enough. Working recipes or just good ideas would be great! TIA, and good brewing, Jack Skeels JSKEELS at MCIMAIL.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 11:49:01 -0600 (MDT) From: Robert Pryor <Robert.Pryor at m.cc.utah.edu> Subject: Australian Pubs I am heading downunder in August for 3 weeks and would like to know where to go for good brews. Areas we will be visiting: Sydney, Melbourne, Hobart, Brisbane, Bundaberg, Cairns. TIA Rob Pryor (Robert.Pryor at m.cc.utah.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 10:59:52 -0700 (MST) From: Steven B Gruver <gruver at GAS.uug.Arizona.EDU> Subject: re:somebody help me dryhop.. I've dry-hopped several times and have found the results favorable. I use the whole flower contained in a piece of cheesecloth. When the fermentation is complete, I simply remove the cheescloth with the spent hop flowers and throw it away. What's nice about dry-hopping is that the oils from the hops actually add a layer of protection against oxydation during the fermentation process. Good luck Steven B.Gruver > gruver at gas.uug.arizona.edu< University of Arizona - - - /| ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ====|=|=|=== | Kappa Kappa Psi--Omega ((| | |)) \| LIFE MEMBER - - - (((<<<---IN STEREO--->>>))) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 21:48:42 +0300 (EET DST) From: Ilkka Sysil{ <isysila at clinet.fi> Subject: Rightful brewing Concise discourse on rightful brewing. Collected theses PART 1. Thesis 1 The raw materials of real beer are exclusively malt(s), fresh hops (not hop extract!), and fresh water. Quality malts deserve decent treatment with a roller mill instead of extermination with some rubbishy flour-making kitchen wonder. Thesis 2 Brewing yeast is a delicate living organism (unicellular fungi) prevailing in hundreds of strains with distinct characteristics of metabolism having major impact on flavour profile of beer made with particular strain. Hence the profound understanding of the basics of yeast metabolism and general behaviour is indispensable right from the start when selecting strain that matches to the particular style brewed. We should not even try to talk about microbiologically inferior dry yeasts and beer together. Thesis 3 Brewing beer is a delicate biotechnical (biochemical) process in which only rightful ingredients (mentioned in Thesis 1) are used. The biotechnical/-chemical laws governing the brewing process must be fully understood. When dealing with electronics one must distinguish between AC & DC and know the law of Ohm at least, otherwise the aftermath is black and bitter smoke. I have seen astoundingly numerous questions like " What is an enzym, is it an animal...how about alfa amylase then ????" etc. Plenty of informative texts on brewing (for the literate) have been published since Martin Luther (the medieval German one). Books urging decadent and dangerous habits & practices such as relaxing and not worrying instead of serious and diligent study of the biotechnical principles & laws of brewing process can not be recommended. Thesis 4 Malt extracts should not be regarded as raw material of beer at all. The ingredients of malt extracts are unknown. Malt bill of canned extract is unknown, quality and amount of adjuncts & additives are unknown, mashing sequence and thus sugar contents (fermentables vs. dextrins) is unknown, hops & hopping sequence are unknown; what is known actually??? Aside from aforementioned, plenty of the flavour compounds that make beer have been either destroyed or evaporated by boiling off the water. Finally the plenty of non-malt-originated sugar used with extracts in order to boost OG, inevitably leads to a grave disbalance of fermentables vs. amino-nitrogen. This disbalance always induces unhealthy fermentation and leads to inferior result that has nothing to do with beer. Ridiculously pompous texts like "LAGER", "BITTER" or even "REAL ALE"!!! printed on extract cans merely desecrate the names reserved to classify real beer. Extracts do not make mediocre or lousy beer, they do not make beer at all. We should realize, that using extracts is only self-fraud and wasting money. Malt extracts are incontrovertibly even at their best only malt SURROGATES. Btw quality malt is cheaper than any rubbishy extract! END OF COLLECTED THESES PART 1. Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Jun 94 19:36:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: dryhopping/oak in IPAs/bottle bombs LARRY writes: >1) What type of hop should be used when dry hopping? Pellet, Whole, Leaf There are several schools of thought. I subscribe to the "dryhop with whole hops or plugs (compressed whole hops)" school. My main reason for not using pellets is because whole hops float (for the most part) and then you can simply siphon out from under them. This has worked well for me. >2) Do you just drop them into the secondary or primary? Yes, in the primary (I only use a secondary for fruit beers and lagers), but only when the fermentation is almost done -- CO2 will scrub out hop aromatics. >3) Should the be placed in some type of nylon straining bag for easy >removal before racking? If answer to the nylon bag is yes, should the bag >be sanitized with say B-Brite? I choose to not use a bag for several reasons: sanitation, extraction from the carboy after use, restricted contact with the beer. If you do insist on using a hop bag, boiling water is a better choice for sanitation than B-Brite. >4) How long does one keep the hops in the wort? I recommend 7-14 days for ales. I don't have any experience dryhopping at 40F, but I suspect it will take longer. >5) What's a good hop to use for dry hopping? Depends on the style. For English Ales, East Kent Goldings are my first choice. Other options for English Ales are Fuggles (a bit rougher) and Styrian Goldings (related to Fuggles, but actually smell more like East Kent Goldings). Although Pilseners are not traditionally dryhopped (the hop nose comes from late kettle additions) I would use Czech Saaz for them. For American Ales, you can use just about any pleasant smelling hop (like those mentioned above) or Cascades, Centennial, Mt. Hood (Hallertauer-like), Liberty (another Hallertauer relative), Tettnanger (actually a cousin of Saaz, but a distant one). I've read that some people are using Nugget as an aroma hop. There is no reason you could not dryhop with Clusters or Eroica, but you might not like the result -- the aroma will be quite "rough." John Isenhour brewed up an interesting beer all with Pride of Ringwood -- even dryhopped! It smelled and tasted like wood or the bark of a tree. Interesting. >6) How many ounces of hops should I use on the average? Generally speaking, I use about 1 ounce in a 5 gallon batch, but sometimes, when in a hurry or just feeling heavy-handed, I've put as much as 3 ounces in. *********** Marc writes: >I'm brewing an IPA, (straight out of Papazian's book), and something >strange seems to be going on in there. My brew has spent about 1 1/2 >week in the secondary now, and there is a very thin layer of *something* >floating about 2/3 of the way up in the carboy. The stuff is very light >This is the first time I use "Oak Chips" in the secondary. Has anyone >noticed "unusual" suspended goodies in their brew with this technique? Sorry, I have no idea what that "something" is, but would like to comment on the use of oak chips in IPAs. They don't fit the style. The casks in which IPAs were shipped, were made of European Oak (which imparts little or no flavor to beer) and they were pitch-lined, so there was very little if any contact of beer with oak. Oak flavor IS appropriate when trying to duplicate some Lambics and, of course, Rodenbach (which are fermented in un-lined oak casks and tuns), but not IPAs. ******** Allen writes that he's got some exploding bottles. I suggest trying to releave the pressure (slowly, carefully) and then recapping. The overcarbonation may be due to infection (which may or may not make the beer taste bad) or it may be that you overprimed or maybe just that you bottled it before the beer had finished fermenting. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 13:16:50 -0700 From: fischer <kfischer at ucssun1.sdsu.edu> Subject: Disinfectant Howdy I was wondering if anyone has used Amphyl for washing their beer bottles? I was thinking about using it. It is primarily used as a microbial disinfectant. But I was thinking that maybe some residual Amphyl might kill the yeast in the bottle. It's primary ingrediant is o-phenylphenol. Anyone have any comments? Seems to me as though it couldn't be any worse than bleach. Thanks, Keith kfischer at ucssun1.sdsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 94 15:28:17 EDT From: Btalk at aol.com Subject: king kookers Steve Christiansen asks about this. I 've had a 170,000 btu King Kooker for about 6 months. My particular model has a pot support ring that is the same diameter as the Molson 1/4 keg I use for a pot. Seemed a little hairy at first, but it stays put w/ no trouble. I thought about welding tabs onto the ring to prevent the keg from slipping, then thought of using a few hose clamps oriented so the screw part would stop keg slippage. I can't say enough about this set up. It is nice to brew outdoors (even in winter) plus it promotes household harmony ;) Propane mileage is about 4-5 batches per 20 lb tank . I've just started mashing , and it is a real advantage to be able to have mass quantities of hot water ready. I also have done some 1.5 hour boils. The flame is fully adjustable. Go for it. Regards, Bob Talkiewicz<btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 94 17:55:08 EDT From: dgbe048 at ascs.aro.allied.com (e048???? - Dan Bethke) Subject: Good Baltimore Microbrew Pub This message is for any homebrew fanatic visiting or living in the Baltimore, Maryland area. You just have to try Racer`s Cafe! They have 15 different microbrews on draft all the time. They rotate to different microbrews all the time. I don't know how they do it, but they only charge about $1.75 for every one of them. Even better is happy hour with 3 brews for $3 (3-7 every day). I have had many tasty brews there from wheats to seasonals. No, I don't own the place, this just sounds like an advertisement. They are at: 7732 Harford Rd., Parkville MD (5 minutes inside the Baltimore beltway) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 19:28:31 -0500 (CDT) From: khaycook at unicomp.net (Ken Haycook) Subject: 1st Annual State Fair of TEXAS H > ANNOUNCING The very first State Fair of TEXAS Homebrew competition. > > Finally after several years of trying and a change in the state ABC > laws we in Texas are going to have a competition. Unfortunatly it is > for Texas Residents only. It is an AHA sanctioned competition so > judging points will count. We will offer categories for all AHA styles. > Each first will get a State Fair Ribbon as well as a neat Stein. If > you are interested, contact me at the address or phone below: > > Ken Haycook > 4751 Hovenkamp > Dallas, TX. 75227 > 214-381-3770 > > Regards, > Ken > > Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Jun 94 21:26:37 EDT From: "JAMES W. KEESLER" <74021.376 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Brass vs. Plastic Valves I have various vessels that have 1" holes in them for those plastic valves that all the brew supply stores have for racking and bottling. And while I have kept hot water and wort away from them, they still leak. Does anyone know if a brass/copper equivalent exists or could anyone describe a set up using compression fittings, etc. that accomplishes the same thing. I haven't had much luck in the hardware stores and I figured the bandwidth here, with its accumulated knowledge, might be able to set me on the right path. TIA Regards, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Jun 94 21:44:34 EDT From: Richard Nantel <72704.3003 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Montreal Beer Fest I posted a message a couple of weeks ago informing readers of the Montreal International Beer festival. I attended this event tonight (Thursday, 16 June) and must tell you that it was very disappointing. They had announced that more than 150 beers from all over the world would be featured. The true breakdown is as follows: of 15 booths, eight feature Quebec Microbreweries, one Ontario microbrewery, two feature Molsons and Labatt products that you can pick up at any corner store in Canada, the remaining four feature popular, easily purchased beers from Japan (Sapporo and Geikkekan), British Isles (Guinness, Bass, Smithwicks, Double Diamond, Newcastle, McEwan's, etc), and Belgium. The Belgium display seemed promising advertising 25 beers. Unfortunately, the beers they offered that were well-rated in Jackson's Pocket Guide to Beer were sold out (on the first night!) They may have more Chimays tomorrow, they said. On top of everything else, they've set up a music stage featuring a hard rock band a few feet from the booths -- forget about a quiet evening sipping a Trappist ale. On the bright side, I picked up a real Guinness Draught glass for five bucks. My apologies if anyone attended based on my earlier post. If you did, I hope the excellent Quebec microbrewery products made your trip worth the effort. Richard Nantel Montreal Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 22:59:27 -0400 (EDT) From: "Andrew C. Winner" <acwinner at wam.umd.edu> Subject: Floaters Solved by Cold and Drinking Just a quick message. Thanks to all those who took time out from the debating mills to offer thoughts and solutions to the strange floating white granuals in my secondary. I bottled and noticed smaller particles of the same stuff in the bottles. After 3 weeks in bottles, I tried a suggestion from several brewers -- refrigeration. It worked! Whatever the stuff was settled within 2 days and the product was a very fine (IMHO) bitters. Two cases were happily consumed by old friends at a college reunion in upstate NY the other week. Definately not an infection -- no off tastes at all. Must have been some sort of hops debris (first time using whole hops vice pellets). Thanks again, Drew (acwinner at wam.umd.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 1994 22:14:37 -0700 (MST) From: "Steven W. Smith" <SMITH_S at gc.maricopa.edu> Subject: A dry hopped beer with really nice legs Zounds! another home-made, lo-tech brew gadget to make dry hopping easier: put pantyhose in your beer :-O Briefly (I'm trying!); cut one leg off of the pantyhose, rinse it, put it in a coffee cup full of water and boil in the microwave for a couple of minutes. Insert the (orange) tip of your racking cane into the toe and stretch the nylon up the length of the cane. My cane has a semi-conical-plastic- thingy TM that clamps onto the tubing to hold it securely in the neck of the carboy - I pulled the nylon up over it and fixed it in place with a wire twist tie*. I did get an unusual amount of foaming initially (CO2 bubbles in the siphon tube) but it subsided quite a bit when I stretched the hose/filter tighter. A good length would probably be from the toe to knee height. In the grand tradition of the HBD I tried valiantly to create an ASCII graphic of it - 'fraid you'll have to use your imaginations for this one. The major advantage of this method over the choreboy (IMHO) is that the entire submerged length of the racking cane becomes the filter surface so it doesn't clog. The tip on the cane is necessary, as it draws liquid "from above" rather than directly up the end of the tube. In case y'all couldn't tell, I'm quite pleased with this innovation and plan to make it S.O.P. My S.O. provides an abundant supply of slightly used filter media. I think this may be the definitive way to get those pesky strawberry particles outta my mead too. :-D I like to ruthlessly smash fruit before adding it to any fermentable. You'd have to add spiders later in the process... * An alternative method might be to stuff the pantyhose through the neck of the carboy, securing it around the top with a rubber band and then inserting the racking cane. _,_/| \o.O; Steven W. Smith, Programmer/Analyst =(___)= Glendale Community College, Glendale Az. USA U smith_s at gc.maricopa.edu "Verbosity leads to unclear, inarticulate things" Dan Quayle Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1453, 06/18/94