FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  Extracts (Longish) (Martin Lodahl)
  Brewery Festival and Tour (npyle)
  Kegging without a fridge? (Reid Graham)
  Seattle Brew Clubs ("Ball, Timothy B")
  corny keg ownership (Btalk)
  Newby Questions (Douglas R. Jones)
  Lager yeast questions (Jay Lonner)
  Help me make an Apple Beer (RAYMUN)
  1994 AHA National Homebrew Competition Results 1/2 (Darryl Richman)
  Harvesting Yeast Dregs (WLK.Wbst311)
  1994 AHA National Homebrew Competition Results 2/2 (Darryl Richman)
   (WIRESULTS)
  peppers&hangovers (Alan P Van Dyke)
  Cleaning new wort chiller? (Midas Operator 3)
  Headspace (Kelly Jones)
  10-25 gallon systems (BrewTim)
  pepper beer (Rob Skinner)
  Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #14... (OfficerRon)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 11:15:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: malodah at pbgueuze.scrm2700.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl)
Subject: Extracts (Longish)

In HOMEBREW Digest #1460, Fred Nolke asked:

> Who has the foggiest what's in the extracts (canned, bagged, dried,
> or drummed) we use? ...
>	...  Brewing Techniques and Zymurgy should have long
> articles in every issue containing detailed analyses of who puts
> what in their extracts and what that means to the brewer.  They
> have next to nothing.

Hate to interrupt a rattling good rant, but you raise some questions
I've wondered about myself, and others I can answer for you.  Read
my article ("Malt Extracts:  Cause for Concern") in the July/August
'93 issue of Brewing Techniques (V1, #2) for further cause to
be suspicious of extracts;  most of the information in it appeared
here in HBD as long ago as '90.  FYI, Zymurgy is preparing a major
article on extracts, but I'd be _very_ surprised if it contained the
sort of data you're looking for, with the necessary rigor.

Part of what my BT article discussed was research done at the University 
of Saskatchewan, where worts made from over 40 extracts were
analyzed both through fermentation studies and HPLC.  The findings
were pretty shocking, suggesting that exctracts aren't really just
the concentrated worts we always thought they were, that worse,
some are adulterated with additions of simple sugars not declared
on the label, and that there's a high degree of correlation between
these "juiced" extracts and fermentation problems.  The University
elected not to publish the list of tested extracts out of fear of
litigation ...

> 			...  How do we solve it?  We have to convince
> the producers that it is in their economic interest to obtain and
> publish the data.  

That was Prof. Ingledew's opinion, when he published the study.
Four years have passed without any of the extract producers "breaking
ranks" with the rest and publishing the sort of data we need concerning
their product.

>		... We have to get Zymurgy and Brewing Techniques
> writers interested.

Have you _any_ idea what you're asking?  The Saskatchewan study was
no minor undertaking.  High Performance Liquid Chromatography
(which was used the analyze the constitution, especially the
sugar profiles and free amino nitrogen content, of the worts)
is not cheap.  All of the extracts were bought "blind," to assure
that the sample was truly representative of what we might buy,
and that isn't cheap, either.  Preparing worts (diluting with sterile
distilled water to precisely 12 degrees Plato) isn't as simple as it 
sounds, nor is a consistent fermentation study.  Then, if you truly
succeed in all of that, you have the lawyers to deal with.  Who's
in a position to fund something like that?  The folks who sell full
pages of color advertising to extract producers?  Not likely, is it?

> and defend yoursales...with data.  And the inventors of adjuncts;
> the Brits, M&F, etc...I've heard they're full of corn.  Flames
> invited - we need something to generate combustion and break the
> data block.

I disagree.  Meaningless noise does no one any good.  The malt extract
industry supplies both the brewing and food industries.  The food
industry's requirements are less stringent than ours, so they have
little to worry about there.  In the brewing industry the primary
markets are commercial and non-commercial, basically brewpubs and us.
Ask your retailer roughly how many of his customers are extract brewers,
vs. the all-grainers.  Producers aren't likely to change until that
ratio does, and their market begins to dry up.  There is no market
pressure for them to change now, as there was in the case of yeast,
where a single producer of top-quality liquid cultures punched a major
hole in the dry-yeast market.  In that case, we had a clear alternative.
In this case, our only clear alternatives to extracts of unknown
composition are either to not use them at all, or to go partial-mash,
using relatively small amounts of relatively neutral extracts.
If producers aren't stressed, they won't change.

	- Martin

= Martin Lodahl		Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning, Pacific*Bell =
= malodah at pacbell.com      Sacramento, CA USA	            916.972.4821 =
=    If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids,   =
=  Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!  (Unk.)   =


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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 11:10:55 -0700
From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com>

Subject: Theses as feces

One can tell that homebrewing is predominantly a male hobby by the frequent
arguements that "Mine is bigger than yours" that frequently arc across
the heavens. It's a "if you ain't a all-grainer, you ain't shit"
philosophy, and it gets tedious after a while.

The use of extracts is neither a mortal sin nor proof of low intelligence.
It is a technique, an ingredient, a process. Arguements about cost, or
convienience or space requrements are useful, but not terribly
important. I guess that if "beginners" start with extracts, then those who
become more "advanced" are more than happy to look down on the lowly
newbies. But we all gotta start somewhere. I've got just under 100 batches
over my belt. I like the hobby. I've made beer, wine, sake, and mead. I
say this to say that there is a place in the world for extract brewing. (Gasp!)

If your personal brewing philosophy tells you that brewing with extracts is
somehow sub-human, fine. But this is OPINION, not TRUTH. This forum is for
exchanging ideas and information, not insults. This information is often
exchanged by someone making a bold statement, often of a brewing
philosophy nature, such as "This technique is worthless for the following
reason". Statements are then made to back up this point. Subsequent
responses tend to either support or dispute the point. But these blanket
statements about how "you don't do it my way, so you ain't shit" get us
nowhere.

Until such time as we can come up with a way to determine whether or not yours
is indeed bigger, I suggest you stop waiving it around.

Rich Webb

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 12:19:43 MDT
From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com
Subject: Brewery Festival and Tour

I went to the Colorado Brewer's Festival last weekend and had a great time.
I got there at the start of the fest, at noon on Saturday, and beat the crowds
and most of the heat.  It was an absolutely wonderful time, and I also picked
up a keg at one of the local breweries for a party that night.  Some notes
from this local unnamed micro:

They high gravity brew at 115% concentration, i.e. 15% over the normal OG.
They didn't offer this information, and were a little uncomfortable
explaining it, but were forthcoming once I asked the question (I had heard a
rumour).

They filter out the yeast in their amber ale and force carbonate (it has lost
some of its character since the old days).  Five gallons of this beer
disappeared in record time at the party so it obviously is still quite good.
Also, I tasted a clone of this beer from the local "Beer Store" (Brew on
Premises shop); its not really very close at all.  I'd say they missed on the
yeast (they only use one type), the malt (something just not right here), and
the finishing hops (just not enough), but everything else was quite close. ;-)

They bottle condition their Abbey and Trippel (OK, I gave it away) for 15
days, I believe, with a yeast that is different from the fermentation yeast.
Why, because of the high alcohol content?  No, so you (that's you, the
homebrewer) can't steal their proprietary yeast (at least that's what the
tourguide told me!).  The tourguide said that he lets these beers age at
least another month at home before drinking them and they take on a much
mellower character, so if you get them really fresh, which is possible, you
might want to age them a bit.

They use only ale yeast in this brewery (including the conditioning yeast).

Their mash/lauter tun was mentioned to have a false bottom.  I looked down in
it and lo and behold I saw a huge copper manifold (looked exactly like a
large version of my own).  Even my 3-yr-old recognized it from the
homebrewery.

They use lots of American malt and Canadian malt (that's about all I saw)
which says to me good beer can be made with these malts.

They use a two-roller mill, rather than the six-roller mills you hear about.
I didn't see the mill, BTW.

They give free samples before/after the free tours and have an authentic
Belgian gal serving the samples and generally running the front desk (a nice
touch for a Belgian brewery).

They've grown from a basement operation (last keg I bought from them was
lugged up the basement stairs by a pregnant woman) to a real powerhouse in
the micro market.  Their kids still play in the brewery all the time
(obviously they aren't too anal about sanitation!).

All in all, this was a great brewery tour, so any of you locals that haven't
done it, do it.  And if you non-locals plan to visit Colorado, email me for a
fairly current list of brewpubs, micros, etc.

Cheers,
Norm = npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 13:04:41 -0600
From: graham at SEDSystems.ca (Reid Graham)
Subject: Kegging without a fridge?



I have recently taken the plunge into kegging and have a couple 
questions for the keg gurus out there.

1.  Am I crazy to be doing this with out a fridge?  I've got the kegs 
in the basement at about 65xF.  Using the CO2/temp graph, I need a lot 
of pressure ~30psi to get the volume of CO2 to the correct level. 
Dispensing at 30psi was fun but not to be tried again!  So, I vent the 
keg and repressure to a dispensing pressure of 5-8psi, but still get 
vast amounts of foam.  After the foam condenses back into liquid the 
beer is not really carbonated well at all.  I suspect that I need to 
lower the temp of the beer to a point where I need much less pressure?

2.  A fridge may be in the works, but in the mean time will I be 
any more successful if I pop the keg in the freezer for a couple of 
hours before dispensing?

I remember a posting a couple of months ago that was similar to 
this one.  If the poster still has any of the replies he got I would 
appreciate getting a copy.


TIA,  Reid Graham	graham at sedsystems.ca

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 12:52:00 PDT
From: "Ball, Timothy B" <ballti at uh2372p03.daytonoh.NCR.COM>
Subject: Seattle Brew Clubs


I will be moving to Seattle/Bellevue soon and am looking for some local brew 
club info. 

Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 15:40:40 EDT
From: Btalk at aol.com
Subject: corny keg ownership

I would imagine that the majority of the folks on HBD and other homebrewers
are like myself in this respect- Homebrewing is a just hobby. Like other
hobbies, interest comes and goes. While homebrewing my be an all consuming
passion right now, chances are that interest will diminish, if not totally
disappear. Maybe the interest will surface again, maybe not.
Anyhow, here is my point about keg ownership/deposits. When your interest in
homebrewing fades (or your liver does!), isn't there some likelyhood that
your once coveted corny kegs will actually end up back in the hands of the
soft drink bottlers? In effect just a long term rental.
"I didn't steal them, I was only borrowing" ;)
Regards,
Bob Talkiewicz<btalk at aol.com>


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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 14:46:17 -0600
From: djones at iex.com (Douglas R. Jones)
Subject: Newby Questions

I have just made my second batch. The first batch (done 2 weeks ago) went
as follows:
Ingredients:
        3.75 lbs of Coopers Bitter hopped extract
        4 lbs bulk Amber extract
        1 pkg Edme yeast

Using only a single carboy for brewing (Billington kit I received as a gift)

Boiled water in a stainless pot and added extract. Dodn't know about
removing from heat first (electric stove). Has a classic boil over. Per
Charlie's book I put 22 gallons of cold tap water into sanitized carboy.
Added hot wort. Added more cold (76F) tap water to make 5 gallons. Didn't
seem cool enough. Capped the carboy (Sunday Night 8 pm). By next morning
solution was down to 80F. Pitched yeast and shook the hell out of it (8am
Monday). Placed it in bathtub, with towel wrapped around carboy to keep it
dark. Added blowoff tube and placed end in a sanitized bucket with some
water in it. By 2pm same afternoon, I had foam coming down the tube. By
midnight (Monday) it had quit. So following evening (Tuesday, 30 hours
after pitching yeast) put fermentation lock on. By next (Wednesday) evening
no apparent bubbling. Upon HB store recommendation I left it alone. Friday
night I added 1 tsp gelatin mixed with water as a fining agent. Bottled
Sunday with 3/4 sugar using a bottling bucket. Beer smelled OK, and seemed
pretty clear. Been in the bottles 8 days now and is clearing with a small
layer of junk at the bottom of the bottles. Oh yes SG: 1.053, FG: 1.014
Questions are:
1) Why did the initial fermentation go so fast. I thought it would last
   2 - 3 days?
2) Why did all activity stop within 3 days? Seems pretty quick!
3) Do I have 45 bottles of decent beer or do I have 45 bottles needing to be
   dumped, cleaned and made ready for the next try?
4) When can I drink the stuff?

Second Batch
Ingredients:
        5 lbs bulk Wheat extract (60% Wheat, 40% Amber)
        1.75 ozs. Saaz for boiling
        1 oz. Hallertau for finishing.
        2 pkgs (10 gms) Windsor yeast

Smarter this time. Boiled water, covered and removed from heat. Put warm
tap water into sanitized glass, added yeats and covered with Saran Wrap.
Warmed extract in hot water and added to water. Put back on stove and
started it boiling. Once boiling set timer for 60 minutes. (Slight boil
over this time) Added Saaz at the beginning of the 60 minute period. After
40 minutes added Hallertau. After 60 minutes covered wort and placed in
sink with ice water. Changed water a couple of times. Also swished wort.
Used cold water from the 'fridge spigot and cold water from the Ozarka
dispenser to partially fill carboy. Added wort by scooping from pot with a
sanitized sauce pan and straining it through a sanitized blue plastic
strainer. Seems mostly Hallertau removed. Had to clean strainer to allow
wort to pass. Added more water from 'fridge spigot and Ozarka dispenser
until 5 gals. Took temp. 76F, pitched yeast. Time 1am Saturday. Into
bathtub, wrapped in towel. Blowoff tube inserted into a sanitized bucket of
water. By 10 am Saturday foam starting up tube. Left town. By 3:30pm Sunday
no activity. Affixed fermentation lock. Beer smells like beer. No activity
discernible on the lock. Will probably leave alone until this weekend.
Questions:
1) Why no activity after only 2 days?
2) Do I need to dump and start over?
3) Go ahead and bottle and hope for the best?
4) What am I doing wrong? I seem to complete fermentation really fast?

TIA,
Doug
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of                |    Douglas R. Jones
     both Time and Space'          |    IEX Corporation
       Led Zeppelin                |    (214)301-1307
                                   |    djones at iex.com
- -------------------------------------------------------------------


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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 13:31:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay Lonner <8635660 at NESSIE.CC.WWU.EDU>
Subject: Lager yeast questions

I brewed my first-ever lager last weekend, and have some questions concerning
what I consider to be an overlong lag time and a weak primary fermentation. 

I used WyEast's Czech Pils #2278 from a 1-quart starter in a 5-gallon batch.  I
chilled the wort (and the starter medium, to avoid temperature shock) to
fermentation temperature (50 degrees) prior to pitching, and it took 5 days
before I saw signs of active fermentation.  But "active" really isn't a good
word to use, since I am getting at most one airlock glug every 6 seconds.  I'm
not getting much in the way of krausen -- a little foam on top, but nothing
like I get in my ales (which doesn't come as a huge surprise for a
bottom-dwelling yeast).  I pitched the yeast 8 days ago and so far the SG has
only come down some 10 points (if that).

This is an all-malt brew (step-mash using Klages as the base malt) so I'm
ruling out the Crabtree effect.  I used a one-quart yeast starter and my
standard aeration wand-thingie, techniques which frequently yield three-day
complete fermentations in my ales.  Is this just normal behavior for lager
yeasts, or for this strain in particular?  What can account for this weirdo
behavior?  Most importantly, is there anything I can do at this point to speed
things up?

TIA for any words of advice or clucks of sympathy.

Jay.

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 16:31:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: RAYMUN at delphi.com
Subject: Help me make an Apple Beer



Well i'm thinking about trying to design an Apple Homebrew recipe 

myself, but I have a few questions.  I have never designed a recipe

before.

 

I want to make an Ale, light to medium in color (not dark or stouty

looking)

 

Should wheat malt be used?

Should I crush or puree the fruits? (ie. make an apple sauce out

of the apples)

HOw much fruit should be used? (I want the drinker to be able to recognize

that there is fruit in the brew) 4-5 gallon batch of beer will be made

 

Basically I'm asking if anyone can throw my way any input he/she should

have in designing a recipe of this type.   What types of grains should

I use? Munichs, Pale Malts, Crystals...etc..etc.  I prefer to use and All

Grain type recipe instead of using extracts.

 

Thanx in advance,

Raymun at delphi.com

 

PS Please respond quickly. I'm itching to making it NOW!

 



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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 13:53:56 PDT
From: Darryl Richman <darrylri at microsoft.com>
Subject: 1994 AHA National Homebrew Competition Results 1/2

Third Place	Barley Wine
Carl  Eidbo, Ray Taylor and Jim Gebhardt
Fargo, ND
Homebrew Club: Prairie Homebrewing Companions
subcategory: Barley Wine
Name of beer: North Dakota Farmer's All Grain Barley whine


Second Place	Barley Wine
Ray Call,
Stockton, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: Barley Wine
Name of beer: Romulin Ale II


First Place	Barley Wine
David M. West, Bill Pankratz
Milford, MI
Homebrew Club: Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
subcategory: Barley Wine
Name of beer: Spring Heaven


Third Place	Belgium & French Ale
Bill Yearous,
Galt, CA
Homebrew Club: Brew Angels
subcategory: Belgian Strong Ale
Name of beer: A Taste of Brussels


Second Place	Belgium & French Ale
Phil Rahn,
Cordova, TN
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: White/Wit
Name of beer: Pale Face


First Place	Belgium & French Ale
Shawn Bosch, Joseph Bosch
Wading River, NY
Homebrew Club: Brew-52's
subcategory: Flanders Brown
Name of beer: Icy Hollow Brown Ale


Third Place	Belgian Style Lambic
Gunther Jensen,
Pacoima, CA
Homebrew Club: Maltose Falcons Homebrewing Society
subcategory: Fruit
Name of beer: Forbidden Kiss


Second Place	Belgian Style Lambic
Douglas Faynor,
Woodburn, OR
Homebrew Club: Capitol Brewers of Salem
subcategory: Fruit
Name of beer: Kripple Kreik


First Place	Belgian Style Lambic
James Liddil,
Tucson, AZ
Homebrew Club: Old Pueblo Homebrewers
subcategory: Gueuze
Name of beer: Wild Pseudo-Lambic


Third Place	Brown Ales
Charlie Wiemann,
Carol Stream, IL
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: American Brown
Name of beer: Satchmo


Second Place	Brown Ales
Russell Levitt,
Bloomington, IN
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: English Brown
Name of beer: Get Your Thumb Out Your Butt


First Place	Brown Ales
NO FIRST PLACE AWARDED,
,
Homebrew Club:
subcategory:
Name of beer:


Third Place	English Style Pale Ale
James L.  Raders,
Minneapolis, MN
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: India Pale Ale
Name of beer: Iowa Pale Ale


Second Place	English Style Pale Ale
John O'Neal,
Tucson, AZ
Homebrew Club: Old Pueblo Homebrewers
subcategory: Classic English Pale Ale
Name of beer: Nelson's Victory Ale


First Place	English Style Pale Ale
Mike Harper,
Oakdale, CA
Homebrew Club: Stanislaus Hoppy Cappers
subcategory: India Pale Ale
Name of beer: White Oak Ale


Third Place	American Style Ale
Ross Hastings,
Edmonton, Alb
Homebrew Club: Edmonton Homebrewers Guild
subcategory: American Pale Ale
Name of beer: Immaculate Ale III


Second Place	American Style Ale
Chad Thistle,
Santa Rosa, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: American Pale Ale
Name of beer: DW7


First Place	American Style Ale
John M.  Arends,
Calistoga, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: American Pale Ale
Name of beer: Vince's Pale


Third Place	English Bitter
Ray Call,
Stockton, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: English Extra Special
Name of beer: Mock Fuller's


Second Place	English Bitter
George Fix,
Arlington, TX
Homebrew Club: North Texas Homebrewers Association
subcategory: English Extra Special
Name of beer: Vineyard Bitter


First Place	English Bitter
Michael Byers,
Santa Cruz, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: English Extra Special
Name of beer: Be Bop Bitter


Third Place	Scottish Ale
Kregg Dickerson,
Folsom, CA
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: Scottish Export
Name of beer: Screamin' Scotch Ale


Second Place	Scottish Ale
Carl Hinsman,
Yarmouth, ME
Homebrew Club: Maine Ale & Lager Tasters  (MALT)
subcategory: Scottish Heavy
Name of beer: MacLeoud's Revenge


First Place	Scottish Ale
Michael Byers,
Santa Cruz, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: Scottish Heavy
Name of beer: What's Under The Kilt?


Third Place	Porter
Neil Gudmestad, Ray Taylor
Fargo, ND
Homebrew Club: Prairie Homebrewing Companions
subcategory: Robust Porter
Name of beer: Pullman Porter


Second Place	Porter
David Bunnell,
Clovis, CA
Homebrew Club: San Joaquin Worthogs
subcategory: Robust Porter
Name of beer: Converter Porter


First Place	Porter
David A. Lose, Glenn Klein, Dale Dockins
Sebastopol, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: Robust Porter
Name of beer: Jim Bob Porter


Third Place	English and Scottish Strong Ale
Ray Daniels,
Chicago, IL
Homebrew Club: Chicago Beer Society
subcategory: Strong "Scotch" Ale
Name of beer: Wee Heavy


Second Place	English and Scottish Strong Ale
Don R.  Griffiths,
Fayetteville, AR
Homebrew Club: Fayetteville Lovers of Pure Suds (FLOPS)
subcategory: Strong "Scotch" Ale
Name of beer: Milligan's Wee Heavy


First Place	English and Scottish Strong Ale
Bob Gorman,
Waltham, MA
Homebrew Club: The Boston Wort Processors
subcategory: English Old Ale/Strong Ale
Name of beer: English Strong Ale


Third Place	Stout
Ron Bouffard,
Bowdoinham, ME
Homebrew Club: Maine Ale & Lager Tasters  (MALT)
subcategory: Foreign Style
Name of beer: Black Velvet


Second Place	Stout
Robert  Burko,
Milwaukee, WI
Homebrew Club: Brewtown Brewmasters
subcategory: Imperial Stout
Name of beer: Cream City Imperial Stout


First Place	Stout
Jim Gebhardt,
Fargo, ND
Homebrew Club: Prairie Homebrewing Companions
subcategory: Imperial Stout
Name of beer: Rapid Run Stout


Third Place	Bock
Jim Lopes,
Fresno, CA
Homebrew Club: San Joaquin Worthogs
subcategory: Traditional German Bock
Name of beer: Turnberry Bock


Second Place	Bock
Darryl Richman,
Bellvue, WA
Homebrew Club: Maltose Falcons Homebrewing Society
subcategory: Doppelbock
Name of beer: Ein Bischle


First Place	Bock
David M. Cooke, James Prince
Yorktown, VA
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: Doppelbock
Name of beer: Halucinator


Third Place	Bavarian Dark
Stu Tallman,
Rochester, MA
Homebrew Club: The Boston Wort Processors
subcategory: Munich Dunkel
Name of beer: Stubrew


Second Place	Bavarian Dark
Tom Altenbach,
Tracy, CA
Homebrew Club: Draught Board Home Brew Club
subcategory: Schwarzbier
Name of beer:


First Place	Bavarian Dark
John Rittenhouse,
Folsom, CA
Homebrew Club: Gold Country Brewers Association
subcategory: Munich Dunkel
Name of beer: Backyard Brown


Third Place	German Light Lager
Dan Leithauser,
Thornton, CO
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: Dortmund/Export
Name of beer: Leithauslager


Second Place	German Light Lager
Bill Murphy,
Brookline, MA
Homebrew Club: The Boston Wort Processors
subcategory: Dortmund/Export
Name of beer: Wortmunder Export


First Place	German Light Lager
Keith Weerts,
Windsor, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: Dortmund/Export
Name of beer: Fallen Oak Dortmund


Third Place	Classic Pilsner
Vince Shumski,
York, PA
Homebrew Club: Harrisburg Area Homebrewers Assoc. (HAHA)
subcategory: German
Name of beer: Vince's X-Pils


Second Place	Classic Pilsner
Mick & Vi Walker,
Fargo, ND
Homebrew Club: Prairie Homebrewing Companions
subcategory: Bohemian
Name of beer: Harvest Pils


First Place	Classic Pilsner
Alan Pagliere,
Ann Arbor, MI
Homebrew Club: Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
subcategory: Bohemian
Name of beer: First Pilsner II


Third Place	American Lager
Todd W. Anderson,
Lompoc, CA
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: American Premium
Name of beer: Warbonnet


Second Place	American Lager
Rick Larson,
Sevastopol, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: American Premium
Name of beer: American Pride


First Place	American Lager
Jeffery C. Cypert,
Ross, TX
Homebrew Club: Zymurgic Enthusiasts of Austin
subcategory: Cream Ale/Lager
Name of beer: Clarabelle's Cream Ale


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Date: 	Mon, 27 Jun 1994 13:55:58 PDT
From: WLK.Wbst311 at xerox.com
Subject: Harvesting Yeast Dregs

Greetings:
I was reading one of Miller's books yesterday on the subject of culturing the
dregs of  bottle conditioned beers such as Chimay and the like.  Unfortunately,
he maintains that some other beer makers bottle condition their beer with an
entirely different yeast strain than what they used for their primary
fermentation, making such a harvest for the homebrewer useless.  Specifically I
am entertaining suggestions as to what brands of bottle conditioned ale
homebrewers have successfully harvested nice yeasts from. I have heard that
Sierra Nevada is good (same as Wyeast 1056?) as well as the legendary Chimay.
Can anyone suggest a good Belgian Wheat beer with viable yeast, and any other
ale yeasts for that matter ? I have used Wyeast in the past, but I am feeling
especially adventurous in wanting to try something a bit different.  In this
way I can sample a few new brews and hopefully purloin the yeast to boot!  I'll
share any suggestions! Thanks!
Bill King

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 13:54:53 PDT
From: Darryl Richman <darrylri at microsoft.com>
Subject: 1994 AHA National Homebrew Competition Results 2/2

Third Place	Vienna/Oktoberfest/Marzen
John Roberts,
Jamaica Plain, MA
Homebrew Club: The Boston Wort Processors
subcategory: Marzen/Oktoberfest
Name of beer: Red Oktober


Second Place	Vienna/Oktoberfest/Marzen
Jeff Niggemeyer,
Kent, WA
Homebrew Club: Impaling Alers
subcategory: Vienna
Name of beer: Wizard Lager


First Place	Vienna/Oktoberfest/Marzen
Byron Burch, Dave Woodruff
Santa Rosa, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: Marzen/Oktoberfest
Name of beer: Protection of the Holy Vergin Octoberfest


Third Place	German-style Ale
John Manczuk,
Watauga, TX
Homebrew Club: Cowtown Cappers
subcategory: Dusseldorf-style Altbier
Name of beer: None Given


Second Place	German-style Ale
Dave Shaffer,
Lafayette, CO
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: Kolsch
Name of beer: Klink Kolsch


First Place	German-style Ale
Bill Murphy,
Brookline, MA
Homebrew Club: The Boston Wort Processors
subcategory: Kolsch
Name of beer: Kolsch 45


Third Place	Fruit Beer
David Norton,
Kenosha, WI
Homebrew Club: Bidal Society of Kenosha
subcategory: Fruit Beer
Name of beer: Summer's Cherry Ale


Second Place	Fruit Beer
Mike Sternick, Jan Sternick
Denver, CO
Homebrew Club: Unfermentables
subcategory: Fruit Beer
Name of beer: Fillmore Peche


First Place	Fruit Beer
Allen E. Jr. Bavry,
Sarasota, FL
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: Fruit Beer
Name of beer: Cherry Pie


Third Place	Herb Beer
Ray Daniels,
Chicago, IL
Homebrew Club: Chicago Beer Society
subcategory: Classic Style Herb Beer
Name of beer: Aspen Export


Second Place	Herb Beer
Mike Cobb,
Mountain View, CA
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: Herb Beer
Name of beer: "Bingbadaba" Chile Pepper Ale


First Place	Herb Beer
Dan Rabin,
Boulder, CO
Homebrew Club: Hop Barley & The Ale'rs
subcategory: Herb Beer
Name of beer: Chatauqua Holiday Ale


Third Place	Specialty Beer
John Manczuk,
Watauga, TX
Homebrew Club: Cowtown Cappers
subcategory: Classic Style Specialty Beer
Name of beer: Ho Ho Ho X-Mass Ale


Second Place	Specialty Beer
Grant Johnston,
Woodacre, CA
Homebrew Club: San Andreas Malts
subcategory: Classic Style Specialty Beer
Name of beer: Hazelnut Brown Ale


First Place	Specialty Beer
Paul Sullivan,
Brooklyn, NY
Homebrew Club: New York City  Homebrewers Guild
subcategory: Classic Style Specialty Beer
Name of beer:


Third Place	Smoked
Tom Altenbach,
Tracy, CA
Homebrew Club: Draught Board Home Brew Club
subcategory: Bamberg-style Rauchbier
Name of beer:


Second Place	Smoked
George Mika,
Warrenton, VA
Homebrew Club: Brewers United for Real Potables (BURP)
subcategory: Classic Style Smoked Beer
Name of beer: Raven Doppelbock


First Place	Smoked
Morris Schademan,
Portland, OR
Homebrew Club: Oregon Brew Crew
subcategory: Classic Style Smoked Beer
Name of beer: Old Smokie


Third Place	California Common Beer
Gary Arkoff,
Tigard, OR
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: California Common Beer
Name of beer: Oregon Sunshine


Second Place	California Common Beer
Paul Hale,
Burlington, VT
Homebrew Club: Green Mountain Mashers
subcategory: California Common Beer
Name of beer: Spank'er Steam


First Place	California Common Beer
Walter Dobrowney,
Saskatoon, SK
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: California Common Beer
Name of beer: Steamer


Third Place	Wheat Beer (Ale)
Robert A. Miller,
Ft Collins, CO
Homebrew Club: Mash Tongues
subcategory: German-style Weizen/Weissbier
Name of beer: Blucherbrau Weiss


Second Place	Wheat Beer (Ale)
Phil Kaszuba,
Essex Jct, VT
Homebrew Club: Green Mountain Mashers
subcategory: German-style Weizen/Weissbier
Name of beer: Last Stop Wheezin'


First Place	Wheat Beer (Ale)
Thomas O'Connor III, MD,
Rockport, ME
Homebrew Club: Maine Ale & Lager Tasters  (MALT)
subcategory: German-style Weizenbock
Name of beer: Three Year Weizenbock


Third Place	Traditional Mead
Paddy Giffen,
Rohnert Park, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: Still
Name of beer: Be Still My Heart


Second Place	Traditional Mead
David Suda,
Toronto, ONT
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: Still
Name of beer: Mary Ann's Mead


First Place	Traditional Mead
Andrew Lamorte, Suzanne Price
Littleton, CO
Homebrew Club: Hop Barley & The Ale'rs
subcategory: Still
Name of beer: It's My First Mead


Third Place	Melomel, Cyser, Pyment, Braggot
Mitch Gelly,
Mt. Horeb, WI
Homebrew Club: Madison Homebrewers & Tasters Guild, Ltd.
subcategory: Still
Name of beer: Nibble Cyser


Second Place	Melomel, Cyser, Pyment, Braggot
Gordon L. Olson,
Los Alamos, NM
Homebrew Club: Los Alamos Atom Mashers
subcategory: Still
Name of beer: Cherry Mead


First Place	Melomel, Cyser, Pyment, Braggot
Byron Burch,
Santa Rosa, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: Still
Name of beer: Annointing Oil


Third Place	Metheglin, Hippocras
David Sherfey,
La Crescenta, CA
Homebrew Club: Maltose Falcons Homebrewing Society
subcategory: Still
Name of beer: Afterglo II


Second Place	Metheglin, Hippocras
Robert Grossman,
Haddonfield, NJ
Homebrew Club: HOPS: Homebrewers of Philadelphia and Suburbs
subcategory: Sparkling
Name of beer: Dixie


First Place	Metheglin, Hippocras
Kevin Stiles,
Orefeield, PA
Homebrew Club:
subcategory: Still
Name of beer: Hypocrite's Hippocras


Third Place	Cider
Ron Page,
Middletown, CT
Homebrew Club: The Boston Wort Processors
subcategory: Sparkling
Name of beer: Pommes Poem


Second Place	Cider
Paddy Giffen,
Rohnert Park, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: Specialty Cider
Name of beer: Mulling Gabriel


First Place	Cider
Martin Stokes,
Old Town, ME
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory: New England Style
Name of beer: New England Cider


Third Place	Sake
Charles Hessom,
Redwood Valley, CA
Homebrew Club: Sonoma Beerocrats
subcategory:
Name of beer: Diaphanous Kimono


Second Place	Sake
Mike Karnowski,
New Orleans, LA
Homebrew Club: Crescent City Homebrewers
subcategory:
Name of beer: End Marijuana Prohibition Sake


First Place	Sake
Dale Howell,
Wellington, FL
Homebrew Club: Palm Beach Draughtsmen
subcategory:
Name of beer: Sake

Homebrew Club of the Year

Sonoma Beerocrats

2nd place:	Boston Wort Processors
3rd place:  TIE	Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
	Hop Barley and the Alers


Sakemaker of the Year

Dale Howell
Wellington, Florida


Cidermaker of the Year

Martin Stokes
Old Town, Maine


Meadmaker of the Year

Byron Burch
Santa Rosa, California


Ninkasi Award Winner

Michael Byers
Santa Cruz, California


Homebrewer of the Year

James Liddil
Tucson, Arizona

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 15:59:25 -0500
From: WIRESULTS at WINET.mste.org
Subject: 


re: keg crimes and AB intentions

As a brewer in the process of getting a micro up and going, I can tell
you this about keg ownership:

BATF requires the brewer to mark the kegs with the plant address
the beer came from (exactly).(see 27CFR25) I assume from the regulations
that if a brewer filled someone elses keg that they could get in a heap 'o
trouble from BATF. Anyway, the brewer buys kegs and has their ID imprinted
on it in an indelible way. They DO NOT TRANSFER TITLE to that keg to the
wholesaler of retailer when those entities purchase the contents. That
keg belongs to the brewer untill such time as the brewer sells that keg
to someone else. If the Jeweler analogy turns out to be true, then I suspect
that there will be a substantial number of law suits against the retail
segment of the industry started or a least some serious education going on
soon.

As to intentions of the Big Boys: I don't think that they care about the
homebrew fads. Their problem is with the micros and pub brewers. The beer 
market is *FLAT* and has been for the last several years except for the 
micro market which has been growing at nothing short of spectacular rates 
(better than 30%). While they don't eat into that much market, they do not 
go un-noticed by the Big Boys as potential threats to the main core business. 
For this reason the Big Boys are undertaking building some of their own 
or are puchasing regional ones. Here in the North Woods, Miller bought 
Leinenkugels (run length 170 bbl) to fill that market that they could not. 

Interestingly enough, Home brewers are very good for the mico and pub
business as some of the postings (I'm going to...) indicate.

Yers in suds...

rjl
Viking Brewing Company

business as some of

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Date: Monday, 27 June 94 16:40:22 CST
From: Alan P Van Dyke <llapv at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu>
Subject: peppers&hangovers

Howdy, y'all...

In HBD 1460, Dodger Posey asks for advice in making a chili pepper beer.  Go
for it, Dodger, but think twice about them habaneros.

There are different ways to make a chili beer.  The way I did it last summer
was by the "Ed's Cave Creek" method:  chunk a serrano in the bottle.  Another
way is to "dry-pepper", adding peppers during the secondary, then bottling
without the chili peppers.  Both have advantages.

In the bottle method, simply brew up a nice light beer (I used a Bohemian
Pilsner).  Wash off the serrano in water, add one to each bottle, proceed as
usual.  With this method, you can do just a few bottles, instead of 50, &
it looks neat.  You can also eat the serrano afterwards.  Drawbacks:  you
are limited in the type of pepper you can use.  Ed's uses serranos, & so did
I.  The reason I did was because it could fit into the bottle; jalapenos are
too thick, & I imagine an habanero would be as well.  Besides, an habanero
would be too spicy; the bottle method gets spicier as it ages.  I found 3
weeks optimal, as the spiciness does not interfere with the taste of the
beer.

In the "dry-peppering" method, you can control a lot of factors.  You can
take the beer off of the chili peppers & stop the beer from being too spicy,
& you can use whatever pepper you want.  Drawbacks are that you miss out on
the great effect with the pepper in the bottle, & you have 5 gallons of a
chili pepper beer (okay, okay, not so bad, but in my house, 50 bottles goes
a very long way, & I like variety).

There was a lot of discussion last summer about chili pepper beers.  Those
who "dry-peppered" suggested around 50 serranos or jalapenos for about 2
weeks.  Of course, you can play around a lot with this; different people
have different tolerances.  There was also a lot of discussion about
habaneros.  These peppers are -very- spicy.  I would not even consider using
the bottle method with them, & if I were to use the dry-pepper method, I'd
be very skimpy with the habaneros.  I know of no one that eats whole habaneros
(and I live in a city with an annual jalapeno eating contest), and farmers
who work with them go to great extremes to protect themselves when handling
them.  If you hold a habanero & then rub you eyes with you fingers, you will
have to wash out yours eyes.  They will cause physical harm.  Be -very-
careful if you choose habaneros.

Furher discussions concerned using Tabasco, pure absicum (sp?), "hot sauces",
etc.  Don't bother.  Tabasco has vinegar in it (remember, you're putting this
into you beer), absicum extract has no flavor (half the point, right?), &
salsas have all sorts of things, including tomatoes & onions.  Stick with
whole, fresh, clean peppers, & you'll do fine.

And whatever you do, avoid chipotles.  I still have nightmares from it all.

Concerning hangovers:  well, I tested it out this weekend, & this worked:
20 oz H2O, 2 Tums, 2 Tylenol, & one of my wife's prenatal vitamins.  I did
this after 5 hours of sleep (I didn't stay awake long enough to do it before
I went to bed), got another 4 hours.  Whenever my stomach felt queesy, I
nibbled on a little something, an old trick for morning sickness.  Otherwise,
I felt fine all day.

The whole thing that brought up the hangover issue was whether people suffered
them from homebrew.  I believe a lot of people theorized that the live yeast
helped ward it off.  I did have commercial beer this weekend, & I could feel
the hangover coming on (headache, nausia, etc.) when I tried this remedy.
However, I had a homebrew party last month, & was fine without any remedy.  I
don't remember if I was as drunk, though.  I don't think that adjuncts make a
difference, though.  The beers I had this weekend were Rheinheitsgebot; one of
my homebrews at my party had turbinado & malto-dextrin (is that barley?).

Happy brewin',

Alan of Austin

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Date: Tue, 28 Jun 94 08:51:55 EST
From: <mop3 at BoM.GOV.AU> (Midas Operator 3)
Subject: Cleaning new wort chiller?

Sorry if this is a FAQ, but I was recently given a 10 metre (33')
length of 3/8" OD copper tubing that I'm going to turn into a
wort chiller. Firstly any tips or hints about doing this? Is the
length OK as is, or should it be shorter?

The main question is how do I go about cleaning it so it's clean 
enough to immerse into my precious wort without harm to either me
or my beer?

TIA Stephen	s.hudson at bom.gov.au

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 18:15:06 -0600
From: Kelly Jones <k-jones at ee.utah.edu>
Subject: Headspace

In HBD #1160, Erik Speckman did a pretty good job of debunking some
previously posted myths about headspace.  I would like to add to one
thing he said:

>This will mean
>that it takes *longer* to reach a given level of carbonation with a large
>headspace.
(snip)
>In this case, larger headspace may actually lead to a lower level of
>carbonation after reactant/product equalibrium is reached beacuse it
>absorbs a larger volume of the total CO2 produced.

While this is generally true, in practice CO2 is much more soluble in
beer than in headspace; the amount of CO2 in your headspace is small
in relation to the amount in your beer.  Thus, headspace does not have
_much_ effect on either carbonation time or level, so relax.

As to exploding bottles, the only possiblity I can see here is that if
the bottle is truly full, there is no room for expansion of the liquid
due to heat, or as a previous poster mentioned, freezing.  Since water
(and I assume beer) will expand much more than glass will when heated,
increasing temperatures will increase the pressure in a bottle. At an
extreme case, 12 oz of beer may expand by 2 or 3 ml if subjected to a
30 degree C change in temperature (please tell me nobody does this to
their beer!).  This could indeed lead to broken bottles, but it has
nothing to do with the pressure produced by carbonation.  If you're
really going to subject your beer to temperature extremes, leaving
5-10 ml of headspace may be a good idea.  But don't get too hung up on
the importance of headspace.

Kelly


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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 21:37:46 EDT
From: BrewTim at aol.com
Subject: 10-25 gallon systems

After my 50th all-grain 5-gallon batch I've settled upon a set of recipes I
would much prefer to make in larger quantities. I'm beginning investingation
of some systems advertised in Zymurgy and Brewing Techniques. 

Does anyone have any advice regarding what to look for in a large-scale
system? I'd like a gravity-fed system if possible, but have also been
enchanted with the RIMS concept. Has anyone built their own system, and how
much effort was it to locate someone to weld stainless? What are your cost
comparisons (making it yourself versus buying a setup retail). 

Private E-mail to avoid clogging up the Digest, if possible. Thanks.

Brewtim at aol.com


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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 17:24:00 -0800
From: rob.skinner at kandy.com (Rob Skinner)
Subject: pepper beer


	Regarding chili beer:

DP> a) what should I use as a base brew? hops?
DP> b) how should I sanitize the peppers? or at all?
DP> c) when should they be added? bottling, steeping?
DP> d) should I put emergency instructions on the bottle?

   a: A conservatively hopped light lager
   b: By all means sanitize the peppers.  I would squish them and toss
      them into 1-2 cups of boiling	water for a SHORT time.	 I've used
      whole peppers that were dunked in boiling water to kill any surface
      organisms.  The finished beer seemed to have a wild yeast infection.
      Perhaps there is subsurface contamination of the peppers that is 
      not affected by a short boil???
   c: Bottling, steeping, secondary.  Steeping is probably the simplest, 
      and most repeatable.  
   d: Only for sissies and children. 
   
   Rob Skinner <rob.skinner at kandy.com>
     

 .. My modem is baroque; please call Bach later.
- -- MR/2 2.03 NR

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 22:26:19 EDT
From: OfficerRon at aol.com
Subject: Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #14...

*****ATTENTION HOMEBREW BBS SYSOPS**********
Please E-mail me info on your BBS's including phone numbers.  I
am attempting to put a list together for distribution.  Thank you in
advance..

OfficerRon at aol.com


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1462, 06/29/94