HOMEBREW Digest #1478 Mon 18 July 1994
Digest #1477
Digest #1479
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Jim Busch & Bud vs Ice Bud & Yeast Wars (Steve Peters)
Bung in carboy (Gordon Baldwin)
Hydrometer/Temperature variation table (Mark Evans)
Danny has a question (ELQ1)
John Higby (Thomas Aylesworth )
Beer-Bread Recipe ("Upward, not Northward!")
Stuck Bung (Mark Childers x313)
Priming with fruit juices? (gahaasx0)
Re: Carboy Bunging Problem (BeerGeek1)
yeast culturing (Bruce Wiggins)
resend message ("SMTPGW")
Re: Repost of All Grain Equipment and Hops Article (Automagical Mail Responder)
New(?) German Malts in USA (26023-Mark Nevar(LCU221)30)
homebrew supplies by email ("F. G. Patterson Jr.")
Merry Ann and Ginger Beer (David Deaven)
Extraction efficiency (Domenick Venezia)
Tubing qualities (Anatum)
GW malt direct (Rick Dante)
Cleaning Bruheat elements, Guerilla brewing (Kinney Baughman)
Homebrewing in England (Maj Don L. Staib)
RICE WINE (aaron.banerjee)
Boiling stones (Domenick Venezia)
Yeast starters (Domenick Venezia)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 09:31:08 -0700
From: Steve Peters <stevep at pcx.ncd.com>
Subject: Jim Busch & Bud vs Ice Bud & Yeast Wars
I would like to thank Jim Busch on behalf of myself and hundreds (thousands?)
of
other brewers reading the digest for the excellent primer on grains posted in
Digest #1475. It is this selfless spirit of helpfullness and the sharing of
information that makes this forum renown. Thanks for making it work Jim!
now, in other news: the other night I was seized with curiosity. Just exactly
what was the difference between Bud and Bud Ice? Exactly how hot is the "ice"
they use to brew it? I trucked down to the local Plaid Pantry and bought a
bottle of "Bud" (just bud, not dry, or lite, or clear, or draft (ha!) or
anything) and a bottle of "Ice Bud" and took them home to compare. I took
bottles from the dark part of the cooler hoping to find beer spared the UV
light. Also at this point I must add that I am not a beer judge, I just play
one on the homebrew digest.
"Ice Bud" "Bud"
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
color in bottle: lite! (clear bottle) dark brown (brown bottle)
color in glass: golden yellow very pale yellow
head: none at all small fizzy head
Taste: vague malty taste no taste at all, like thick
vague alcohol aftertaste water. hint of
sweetness?
hint of sweetness?
specific grav. 1.010 1.008
conclusions: Ice Bud has an actual perceptable flavor which I think tastes
better than Bud (i.e. tastes better than nothing). Maybe the ice brewing thing
really works ;> ? How Bud manages to have absolutely no taste I'll never
figure out. I was actually impressed that the beer I bought wasn't skunked
like most bud I've experienced.
also, results of my belgian dry yeast packet from under the can lid vs Wyeast
Belgian ale. I made a batch of Brewferm Diablo. I split a litre or three off
and fermented it with the yeast pack from under the lid, and used Wyeast
belgian
(fermented in the mid 60's F) for the rest:
The dry yeast gave the beer acceptable flavor reminiscent of belgian beers I've
tasted. However, the liquid yeast developed a much more pleasant final
product. It's as if the dry yeast flavor has rough edges, and flavor of the
liquid is smooth and soft. Results of the famed girlfriend test:
dry yeast beer: um... tastes slightly like cough syrup
liquid yeast beer: fruity! interesting!
conclusion: chuck the yeast packet, shell out the cash for good liquid yeast.
- --
Steve Peters
stevep at pcx.ncd.com
Sustaining Engineering and Support
Network Computing Devices
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 09:36:19 -0700
From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com>
Subject: Sake making, part 1
In HBD #1476, Jim Cave asks for tips on making sake for a friend.
Last year I bought Fred E.'s book on how to make sake. His method
wasn't real clear, so I tried to interpet what he said
into something that I could use. I made sake last spring using the
first method mentioned here. Since then, Fred came out with a
'different' method, and I did the same interpetation of that method.
I have not tried the second one. I sent examples of the first
method to the nationals this year. I'd like to tell you how well it
did, but I've not received my judging sheets back from them. Youl'd
think that for a 10$ entry fee, they could at least keep track of
the entrants. Oh well, that's a gripe for another time. In any case,
I'm rather proud of the sake that I did make, even though it
didn't win the nationals...
In any case, Fred does publish a Sake newsletter, which contains
a lot of information on commercial sake and tasting critiques.
If you are interested, give me a buzz and I'll give you the
address.
Good luck!
Rich Webb
Guide to making Sake, part 1 of 2
(standard mash size, approx 3-4 gallons)
Yamahai-Moto (Original style yeast mash)
Day 1 Wash 1.5 cups of rice and soak overnight in fridge at temp = 40 deg
Add 1/2 cup Koji to 2.5 cups cold water, 3/4 tsp yeast nutrient,
and a pinch of Epsom salts. Mix together, and store overnight in fridge.
Day 2, am. Steam the rice, and add the hot rice to the cold Koji
mix. Blend well and store, maintaining temp = 74 deg
Day 2, pm. Stir the mix.
Day 3, am. Stir the mix.
Day 3, pm. Stir the mix.
Day 4, am. Stir the mix.
Day 4, pm. Stir the mix. Place the mix in the cold place, temp = 50-60 deg
Day 5, am Sprinkle yeast on the mix, but do not stir in. Cover
and maintain temperature.
Day 5, pm Raise temperature of mash to 68-74 deg, and stir yeast into mash
Day 6, am. Stir the mix.
Day 6, pm. Stir the mix.
Day 7, am. Stir the mix.
Day 7, pm. Stir the mix.
Day 8, am. Stir the mix.
Day 8, pm. Stir the mix.
Day 9 Stir the mix
Day 10 Stir the mix
Day 11 Stir the mix
Day 12 Lower temperature to 50 deg, and allow to rest for 5 days. 13, 14, 15
Day 16 Wash 2.5 cups of rice and soak overnight in fridge at temp = 40 deg
Add 1 cup of fresh Koji to Moto and stir.
Prepare a water mix of 1.25 tsp Morton Salt Substitute into a
little warm water, then
add water to make 2.75 cups of water. Chill this water to temp = 40 deg
overnight.
Hatsuzoe (the first addition)
Day 17, am. Steam the rice, and add the hot rice to the chilled
water and salt substitute mix.
Blend well and cool, achieving temp = 85 deg. Place this mix into
the Moromi vessel.
Add the Moto to the Moromi vessel. Mix thoroughly, maintaining
strict sanitization.
Stir the Moromi every 2 hours for 12 hours. Maintain the fermenter
at temp = 70 deg
Odori (the dancing ferment)
Day 18, am Stir the mix
Day 18, pm Stir the mix
Wash 6 cups of rice and soak overnight in fridge at temp = 40 deg
Add 1.5 cups of Koji to the Moromi vessel and stir the mix.
Place 8.75 cups of water in the fridge at temp = 40
Nakazoe (the middle addition)
Day 19, am Steam the rice, and add the hot rice to the chilled
water mix. Blend well and cool,
achieving temp = 85 deg. Add this mix to the Moromi vessel, and stir
for 30 min. Should now have about 3 gallons.
Wash 10 cups of rice and soak overnight in fridge at temp = 40
deg (*Note: for
dryer and sweeter sake, delay adding 1.5-2.5 cups of rice and an equal
amount of water for adding at Yodan)
Place 1 gal of water in the fridge at temp = 40
Add 2 cups of Koji to the Moromi vessel and stir the mix.
Day 19, pm Stir the mix
Tomezoe (the final addition)
Day 20 Steam the rice, and add the hot rice to the chilled water
mix. Blend well and cool,
achieving temp = 85 deg. Add this mix to the Moromi vessel, and stir
for 30 min.
Moromi
Day 21, am Stir the mix. Try to achieve temp = 50 deg
Day 21, pm Stir the mix.
Day 22 Leave the mix alone. Maintain temp close to 50 deg.
Yodan
Day 34 Either add water or rice or don't. (*If adding water or
rice, wait 3-5 more days for Moromi ferment to be completed.)
Day 37 or so Rack to secondary fermentation container. Press the
rice lees to extract all possible
liquid. Be careful not to aerate the liquid or contaminate the lees.
When fermentation stops, wait 10 more days, then rack and add finings.
When the jiu is clear, rack and pasteurize. Cool and store for 3 weeks
to 2 months at 50-60 deg.
Protect the jiu from light by bottling in brown containers. Another
2 months aging is recommended.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 09:36:36 -0700
From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com>
Subject: Sake making, part 2
Guide to making Sake, part 2 of 2
("standard mash size, approx 3-4 gallons)
Kontoka Shubo-Moto (latest style yeast mash)
Day 1 Wash 1.75 cups (12.5 oz) of rice and soak overnight in fridge
at temp = 40 deg
Place 5 oz of water in the freezer.
Day 2 Steam the rice
add the following to 3.25 cups (26 oz) water: Stir to dissolve, and
heat to 140 deg. 3/4 tsp yeast nutrient, 1/8 tsp Epsom salts
add the steamed rice to the warm water mix, and establish temperature
of 131 deg
heat 1/3 lb koji to 131 deg (do not microwave) and add to rice
mix. maintain temperature for 12 hours.
Day 2, pm. cool the mix to 122 deg using the 5 oz frozen water
add 6 ml of 75% liquid lactic acid or 1 tsp dry citric acid to
moto. Mix thoroughly
and reduce heat to 68 deg. Add yeast and hold at temp for 2 days.
Day 4 raise temperature to 77 deg. hold temp for 4-5 days
Day 8 Wash 3.4 cups (24 oz) of rice and soak overnight in fridge
at temp = 40 deg
Add 0.7 lbs of fresh Koji to Moto and stir.
Prepare a water mix of 1.5 tsp Morton Salt Substitute into a
little warm water, then
add water to make 3.75 cups (30 oz) of water. Chill this water to
temp = 40 deg overnight.
Hatsuzoe (the first addition)
Day 9, am Steam the rice, and add the hot rice to the chilled
water. Blend well and cool,
achieving temp = 85 deg. Place this mix into the Moromi vessel.
Add the Moto to the Moromi vessel. Mix thoroughly, maintaining
strict sanitization.
Stir the Moromi every 2 hours for 12 hours. Maintain the fermenter
at temp = 70 deg
Odori (the dancing ferment)
Day 10, am Stir the mix
Day 10, pm Stir the mix
Wash 7.1 cups (50.5 oz) of rice and soak overnight in fridge
at temp = 40 deg
Add 1 lb of Koji to the Moromi vessel and stir the mix.
Place 10 cups (80 oz) of water in the fridge at temp = 40
Nakazoe (the middle addition)
Day 11, am Steam the rice, and add the hot rice to the chilled
water. Blend well and cool,
achieving temp = 70 deg. Place this mix into the Moromi vessel.
Wash 6.2 lbs of rice and soak overnight in fridge at temp = 40 deg
Add 1.4 lb of Koji to the Moromi vessel and stir the mix.
Place 21 cups (168 oz) of water in the fridge at temp = 40
Day 11, pm Stir the mix
Tomezoe (the final addition)
Day 12, am Steam the rice, and add the hot rice to the
chilled water mix. Blend well and cool,
achieving temp = 70 deg. Add this mix to the Moromi vessel, and stir
for 30 min. Should now have about 4 gallons. Stir the Moromi every 2 hours
for 12 hours.
Day 13, am Stir the mix
Day 13, pm Stir the mix
Day 14, am Stir the mix
Day 14, pm Stir the mix
Day 15, am Stir the mix
Day 15, pm Stir the mix
Day 16, am Stir the mix
Day 16, pm Stir the mix
Day 17, am Stir the mix
Moromi
Day 17, pm Stir the mix. Lower the temperature to 50 - 60 deg,
the lower the better.
Day 18, am Stir the mix
Day 18, pm Stir the mix. Can take gravity readings on 18th and
22nd day. Racking will stop fermentation
Yodan
Day 32 Either add water or don't. Adding no water yields 19%,
adding 32 oz water yields
16%, adding 72 oz yields 14%, adding 127 oz yields 12%, adding 166
oz yields 11%
Day 37 or so Rack to secondary fermentation container. Press the
rice lees to extract all possible
liquid. Be careful not to aerate the liquid or contaminate the lees.
When fermentation stops, wait 10 more days, then rack and add finings.
When the jiu is clear, rack and pasteurize. Cool and store for 3 weeks
to 2 months at 50-60 deg.
Protect the jiu from light by bottling in brown containers. Another
2 months aging is recommended.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 10:56:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: gbaldw at zaphod.usin.com (Gordon Baldwin)
Subject: Bung in carboy
I have never used this method to get a bung out of a carboy, but it works
great for getting corks out of wine bottles. Take a bandana and tie a
knot in one corner. put the knotted corner in the bottle with the rest
of the bandana laying flat around the opening of the bottle. Shake the
cork onto the bandana and into the mouth of the bottle. Now slowly pull
the bandana. The cork will snug into the mouth of the bottle and the
knot will catch on the backside of the cork and pull it right out. A
little lubricant will make it easier.
- --
Gordon Baldwin
gbaldw at usin.com
Olympia Washington
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 13:13:49 -0600
From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans)
Subject: Hydrometer/Temperature variation table
A few new brewers have queried about Hydrometer readings that vary due to
wort temperatures. I posted this table from Byron Burch's "Brewing Quality
Beers: the Homebrewer's Essential Guidebook" (1986) some time ago, but
thought it was worth reposting. The temp. is the beer/wort temp. at the
time of gravity reading.
Degrees C. Degrees F. Correction
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
0 32 subtract 1.6
5 41 subtract 1.3
10 50 subtract .8
16 60 read as observed
20 68 add 1.0
25 77 add 2.2
30 86 add 3.5
35 95 add 5.0
40 104 add 6.8
45 113 add 8.8
50 122 add 11.o
55 131 add 13.3
60 140 add 15.9
This table also helps to estimate the hot sparge prior to boiling.
Brewfully, Mark Evans
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 94 11:03:11 PDT
From: ELQ1%Maint%HBPP at bangate.pge.com
Subject: Danny has a question
the following is a question posed by Danny Dumps of Outhouse Brewing
McKinnleyville Ca. forwarded by ELQ1
Howdy folks, After reading Illkas comments on modern brewing, I thought
I'd stop chilling by carrying the boiler and dunking it in a creek, so I
stole, or I mean bought some copper tubing and a friend said to wrap it
around a parking pipe, but they are 4" and I need a least 8" so I went to
the Safeway parking lot and used a light standard, its just over 8". I
wrapped it real nice and tight and it looks good, now for my question,
How do I get the dinged dang thing off the light standard?
Danny P. Dumps Outhouse Brewery
Ed Quier ELQ1 at PGE.COM
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 94 14:52:43 EST
From: Thomas Aylesworth <t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com>
Subject: John Higby
Sorry to waste HBD bandwidth like this . . .
John - I got your note, but I can't seem to respond to your e-mail
address: unisql!jonh at cs.utexas.edu. If you have another address, let
me know and I will respond to it, otherwise call me (voice) at the
number in my .sig and I will be glad to help you out!
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas Aylesworth | t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com
Space Processor Software Engineering |
Loral Federal Systems, Manassas, VA | (703) 367-6171
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 15:30:31 -0500 (EST)
From: "Upward, not Northward!" <CULP1405 at splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu>
Subject: Beer-Bread Recipe
I FTP'ed this off a recipe archive for vegetarians. It's pretty simple. Not
quite up to the sophistication of the all-grain brewers 8-), no doubt. But hey,
we LOWLY EXTRACT BREWERS gotta do our thing too! Oh,I ain't baked it so...
3 cups self-rising flour
1 12-oz can/bootle of GOOD of beer
2 tablespoons sugar
Mix ingredients and put into greased loaf pan. Don't overmix. Bake at
375 degrees for about 1 hour.
Options: You can cut down on the self-rising flour and add whole-wheat
flour, bran flakes, rolled oats, nuts, and 1/2 cup raisins in any
combination. For example, I use 1 cup white flour, 1 cup whole-wheat
flour, 1/2 cup bran flakes and 1/2 cup rolled oats.
MAKES 1 LOAF.
ACTAULLY I AM CURIOUS...IS IT NOT A BAVARIAN CUSTOM TO ADD A FEW GRAINS OF
UNCOOKED RICE TO YOUR GLASS OF WHEAT-BEER? WHY?
Kirby Culp, culp1405 at splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 13:48:12 -0500
From: dev1!markc at uunet.uu.net (Mark Childers x313)
Subject: Stuck Bung
To the guy with the Stuck Bung in his carboy, I think the perfect tool for
removing it is one of those bow-fishing arrows. They have a collapsable
barb on each side of the arrow point. So, if the bung has a hole in it,
he should be able to slip this point thru (collapsed) and have the barbs
open when he pulls on it. VOILA!
If the bung doesn't have a hole maybe he could just shoot this arrow
into the bung with the bow and VOILA! Safety goggles might be in order
for plan B.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 94 14:12:34 mdt
From: gahaasx0 at ccmail.wcc.com
Subject: Priming with fruit juices?
Has anyone primed with fruit sugars/juices?
Any ideers on the proper amount of fruit juice
per 5 gallons to add just PRIOR to bottling?
Tasty results can be had by priming with corn sugar,
honey, unfermented wort, etc... but what are the
conversions of 1 cup honey = X cups fruit juice,
apple or other. Can't you just imagine peach,
apricot, apple, pear, strawberry, raspberry, etc?
This might take longer than corn sugar, but it
should be worth the wait.
Greg.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 94 16:50:34 EDT
From: BeerGeek1 at aol.com
Subject: Re: Carboy Bunging Problem
Just my .02 worth:
If the stopper has a hole in it life is good. Just string to the middle of a
short nail ( the length of the nail must be less than the width of the carboy
openning). Turn the carboy upside-down, and shake it till the stopper gets
stuck in the opening with the hole facing down. Then, while holding onto the
end of the string (w/o the nail) push the nail thru the hole in the stopper .
The nail will now fall flat and you can pull on the string to remove the
stopper.
I have done this far too many times...
-M
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 17:09:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Bruce Wiggins <FAC_BWIGGINS at VAX1.ACS.JMU.EDU>
Subject: yeast culturing
I have a couple of questions about culturing yeast.
1. The yeast faq says that dried malt extract is the best medium to use for
starter cultures. I made up a culture medium from DME, but it is very
turbid--lots of suspended solids after autoclaving. I could
filter/decant the clear wort off of the hot break material, and then
re-autoclave, but this seems like too much work. I know that some people
grow yeast on laboratory media, such as LB or YM. Will yeast that are
grown in these media be good for pitching? Or do they really need to be grown
in malt extract medium? My goal is to inoculate a liter or so of _clear_
medium with a colony, grow up the yeast, and then pitch.
2. Is there a recommended number of active (ie, glycogen-containing) yeast
cells to be added to 5 gal of wort? Or, to put it another way, what is the
optimum concentration (cells/ml) of active yeast in the wort right after
pitching? Can you count the number of _active_ cells microscopically?
3. What is the relationship between initial yeast concentration and wort
oxygenation? If you pitch at high levels, is less oxygen required in the wort?
(I am going on the assumption that the oxygen is required for yeast
multiplication, and if lots of yeast is added, less growth is required.)
4. Bringing back the thread of "Who Owns The Kegs?" (and at the risk of
injecting more "lawyer-eeze" into things): Who owns the yeast strains? If a
company spends lots of time and $ developing a great strain, is it stealing to
culture and maintain that strain yourself, instead of buying it from them each
time you brew? I know that some strains of bacteria are patented... Just some
food for thought.
Thanks in advance for any info about culturing.
Bruce Wiggins
fac_bwiggins at vax1.acs.jmu.edu
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Date: 15 Jul 1994 03:50:20 U
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Subject: Homebrew Digest #1476 (July 15, 1994)
HOMEBREW Digest #1476 Fri 15 July 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Re: club bylaws (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Repost of All Grain Equipment and Hops Article (Arthur McGregor 614-0205)
Helles bock recipe requested ("DEV::FVH")
Honey (kit.anderson)
beer bread apologies (Liana Winsauer)
BUZZ-Off Results (Robert Mattie)
CO2 chemistry/Malts/Skunking (Philip Gravel)
Re: Dunk cooling (Aidan "Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen)
Quick Ferment?? (Ratchet107)
first batch problems (John Harres)
Yeast questions (ELTEE)
Re: Carboy Bunging Problem (Arthur McGregor 614-0205)
wort splashing (Bob_McIlvaine)
Carrying hot pots (Spencer.W.Thomas)
no subject (file transmission) (Steve Scampini)
Oak chips (Bob Jones)
recipe request (Nada Khirdaji)
Re: Trub & specific gravity (Brendan Halpin)
Partial Mashing ("Palmer.John")
Sake information please. (Jim Cave)
Fruit Fly Beer? (Aaron Shaw)
Re: carboy bunging problem (STU_CEPARTIN)
Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
(Articles are published in the order they are received.)
Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc.,
to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if
you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU),
then you MUST unsubscribe the same way!
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from
sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via
mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a
message to that address to receive listserver instructions.)
Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored.
For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 14:49:58 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
Subject: Re: club bylaws
John DeCarlo x7116 writes:
> Can anyone explain why a homebrew club would *want* to have by-laws?
An issue that has come into prominence recently is that of liability
for alcohol-related accidents. (I.e., someone gets in a wreck on the
way home from a club meeting.) Some clubs have incorporated in order
to shift potential liability from individual members to the
corporation (which is essentially penniless, so not a good target for
lawsuits).
=Spencer
- ------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 16:18:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Arthur McGregor 614-0205 <mcgregap at acq.osd.mil>
Subject: Repost of All Grain Equipment and Hops Article
Sorry for the messed-up post yesterday, don't know what happened. Hope this
is
easier to read.
Hi All
All Grain Equipment Questions:
My wife just bought me a Gott Cooler for my B.D., so I shall
be transitioning to all grain soon. I was wondering about brew
pots. I have seen adds in brew supply catalogs and seen canning
pots in department stores for 8-8.5 gal ceramic on steel pots,
but they are listed as medium duty. I have also read in the HBD
of some brewers whose ceramic on steel brew pots had the handle
break off. How sturdy/reliable are these brew pots, and how
would I know short of buying one? I know that kegs can be
modified, but don't have one, ye
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Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 15:14:05 -0600
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Subject: Re: Repost of All Grain Equipment and Hops Article
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Date: Fri, 15 Jul 94 20:02:55 EDT
From: man at lcwdw1.att.com (26023-Mark Nevar(LCU221)30)
Subject: New(?) German Malts in USA
Red Bank Brewing and Brunswick Brewing (both NJ) have begun selling German
malts from the Steinbach maltster. At least the label says Maelzerei
Steinbach. Supposedly, they are the exclusive importer and have brought
in 40,000 lbs. Zip City (NYC), Mountain Valley (NY), and Stoudt's (PA) have
all bought some according to the owners of the stores. I haven't gotten
much info from them, mostly because they are hard to pin down. I've been
told the protein level is 11%, but haven't seen any data. Now the real
interesting part is the grain types:
Pilsener
Vienna (10L)
Wheat
Dunkel Wheat
Dunkel
Faro (black)
Sour
Rauch (smoked)
The sour is used in lieu of water treatment in Germany, but I can see uses
for it in a Wit. Zip City is unveiling their smoked beer next week which was
made with 100% Rauch malt (which I find hard to believe). A dark wheat with
dark wheat malt sounds good and if that is real Vienna malt, I can see an
Octoberfest coming up. The Dunkel malt is supposedly a dark (20L) pilsener
malt. Has anyone heard of this stuff? Dr. Fix?
I bought some and plan to try some experimenting, but I'd like to here
from others who have information.
Price? $1.50/lb, discounts start at 20 lbs with 55 lbs. for $44.50.
Brunswick Brewing - 908-572-5353 (my closest store at 30 mins away)
Red Bank Brewing - 908-842-7507 (Tom is the true importer of this)
No affiliation, blah blah blah
Mark Nevar
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Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 23:00:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: "F. G. Patterson Jr." <patterso at mason1.gmu.edu>
Subject: homebrew supplies by email
FYI:
After I asked in HBD for the identities of brewing supply stores with
internet-accessible addresses, I learned of two stores. I sent email to
each, requesting a catalogue. I got a response in less than a day:
from each a catalogue is in the surface mail (no emailed catalogue!)
and email orders are accepted. I have no knowledge yet about the stores
or how they do business.
They are:
1. St. Patrick's of Texas stpats at wixer.bga.com
stpats at bga.com
2. South Bay Homebrew Supply 74557.1102 at compuserve.com
P.O. Box 3798
Torrance, CA 90510-3798
Phone (310) 517-1841
Fax (310) 517-1842
PAT PATTERSON
Fairfax, Virginia
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Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 23:17:54 -0500
From: David Deaven <deaven at ishmael.ameslab.gov>
Subject: Merry Ann and Ginger Beer
This recipe, inspired by others I've read here and in the _Cat's_Meow_,
turned out well and I thought I'd share it. OK, OK, I'm an extract
brewer (my father keeps telling me to graduate to all-grain) but I can
still enjoy a good beer!
Dave Deaven
"Merry Ann and Ginger Ale"
Ingredients for 5 gallons
6.6# John BUll light extract
3C crystal malt, crushed
1C roasted barley, crushed
hunk ginger, grated
steep the crystal malt, barley, and ginger in warm
water to make a tea to be added to the boil.
1oz N. Brewer's hops (50 min, bittering)
hunk ginger, grated (5 min)
1oz Cascade hops (aroma, <5 minutes)
chill quickly. OG=1.042
1pkg EDME ale yeast + 1pkg John Bull ale yeast
hydrate in pint of 100F water at least
10 min before pitching
Rack to secondary after peak krausen (2 days for me).
Prime and bottle when done (8 days total for me).
This had a great ginger bite when bottled, and after
10 days in the bottle is a delicious brew with a pleasant
ginger finish. It's not very full-bodied, and this
strange yeast combination produces a characteristic taste I'm sure
can be improved, but the method of adding ginger at the end of
the boil seems to have produced the effect I was looking for, so
I'm happily relaxing.
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Date: Fri, 15 Jul 1994 22:22:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com>
Subject: Extraction efficiency
I brewed an Alt today with a single decoction mash and got 105% extraction
efficiency! So what is wrong with this picture:
I took a number of SG readings throughout the boil. Initially I had 8
gallons, boiled for a while and reduced it to 7. Both readings give
extractions of 105+%. At 6 gallons I had 1.041 (corrected) which yields
about 102+%. I used 4 lbs Klages and 3 lbs Light Munich. I was aiming at
an OG of 1.048 and hit 1.045 with 4.75 gallons into the carboy.
Are my expected points for an infusion mash and a decoction mash (even a
single) that much more efficient?
8 gallons at SG at 51.00 C: 1.020
SG at 59.00 F: 1.031
7 gallons at SG at 43.00 C: 1.028
SG at 59.00 F: 1.036 (corrected)
Expected
Grain Pounds Yield
- -----------------------------------------
LAGER 2-ROW 4.0000 35.0000
MUNICH LIGHT 3.0000 33.0000
Total SG points: 239.0000
Total lbs grain: 7.0000
Expected points: 34.14
Actual points: 35.99
Extraction efficiency: 105.40%
Cheers,
Domenick Venezia
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia at zgi.com
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Date: Sat, 16 Jul 94 09:37:25 EDT
From: Anatum at AOL.COM
Subject: Tubing qualities
Hello homebrewers,
I'm relatively new to the Digest, but have been inspired and educated by the
info and threads
shared on it.
I made my first all-grain pale ale a few days ago and got psyched up and
prepared for it by
reading some back logs of the Digest... and things went great. My
approximation of Fuller's
London Pride is merrily bubbling away.
An attempt to give some info after taking so much - regarding tubing
formulations - hope it's of
interest.
Norprene A-60 (R) tubing is designed for high temperature applications, with
a range from neg
60 to plus 275 degrees. It is ozone and U.V. resistant, although those
features aren't so
important. It is flexible but retains its shape, can be autoclaved 5 times
and is compatible with
sanitizers (like Idophor).
Tygon (R) B-44-3 is targeted to the food, dairy and beverage industries, is
heavily used in the
soft drink industry. B-44-4X is used in food and milk processing plants.
Manufacture claims the
bores of each are smoother than stainless steels and won't trap bacteria, and
so flush-clean very
easily. There is a braided version as well.
Anyone looking for a supplier can E-mail me direct. I'm don't make/sell the
stuff - I'm a wildlife
consultant but used the tubings in a previous aquarium business. Hope this
helps.
Yassou! Greg Tatarian anatum at aol.com
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Date: Sat, 16 Jul 94 05:08:30 PDT
From: rdante at icogsci1.UCSD.EDU (Rick Dante)
Subject: GW malt direct
Way back in HBD #1469 (July 7th 1994) Don Put writes:
>>From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com>
>>Subject: This bud malt's for you
>Richard writes:
><Some good info on GW malt snipped>
>>If you have GW malt that is individulally bagged, then it has gone
>>through another set of hands, as GW is not in the business of fooling
>>around with bagged malt.
>There is a GW malting facility in Los Angeles, actually it's in one of the
>industrial suburbs (I think it may be Vernon), and they sell directly to
>homebrewers every Wednesday. You have to place and order on Tuesday, and
>the minimum order is 100lbs, then you pick it up on Wednesday in a
>container supplied by you. Last time I checked, it was $0.23/lb. I
>believe it's a two-row variety, but I'm not sure which one. Also, I'm not
>sure if it's the same as they supply to Bud, or one of their other products.
>I've never used it (I'm kinda stuck on the Belgian stuff myself), but I
>know a lot of local homebrewers who do; they seem to like it just fine.
>
>don
>dput at csulb.edu
This sounds great. Could somebody supply the phone number and address of this
Great Western facility in Los Angeles?
Also, do they only sell pale 2-row to homebrewers on these HBer's Weds? Or
might they also sell some other varieties that I (or anyone else) would be
interested in such as malted wheat?
Also, does anyone know if GW has a malting facility in the Bay Area?
Thanks
Rick Dante
rdante at ucsd.edu
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Date: Sat, 16 Jul 1994 13:38:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR at conrad.appstate.edu>
Subject: Cleaning Bruheat elements, Guerilla brewing
Steve asks:
>Does anyone out there know what the best cleaning agent is for cleaning
>scale off the heating element of a Bruheat(tm)?? Reply by e-mail is fine,
>as I can't imagine this is of general enough interest to warrant posting.
A couple of years ago I discovered that boiling 1 tablespoon of B-brite
in a gallon of water after a round of brewing will float the light, white
sugar scale off the Bruheat element without scrubbing. If you don't do
something to remove the white scale, it will become brown the next time,
then black, and much more difficult to remove.
Pass the word along. There a lot of Bruheat owners out there who bought
their Bruheats before I started including this hint in the instructions.
- ---------------------------
On another note, I thoroughly enjoyed Gregg Tennefoss's post yesterday
about the disasterous experience with his refrigerator that still resulted
in a good beer. I've been thinking a lot lately about "guerilla brewing" -
that's when you brew a beer in which several if not all the rules of
brewing are broken and you still come up with a good beer. For several
different reasons, I've had the occasion of late to do a couple of
"guerilla brews". They're still fermenting but so far, so good.
I think Gregg's experience is important. We spend a lot of time (and
rightfully so) splitting the fine frog hairs of brewing science trying to
improve our efforts. But in doing so, we lose sight of how forgiving
brewing can be. I'm reminded of the fellow who was homebrewer of
the year about three years ago. He had brewed a dunkelweizen in honor of
his newly born son. He checked his beer one day and discovered the cork
had blown, beer was all over the basement and it had been left unattended
for a couple of days. He almost threw it down the drain but decided to
recork it and give it a chance. It won Best of Show in the AHA Nationals.
Something to remember when brewing angst strikes.
Cheers!
___ ----------------------------------------------------------- ___
| | Kinney Baughman | |
| | baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu | |
\ / \ /
| "Beer is my business and I'm late for work" |
---------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Sat, 16 Jul 94 12:05:36 -0600
From: staib at oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don L. Staib)
Subject: Homebrewing in England
Andy, stand by to cast off! I lived in England for 3 years,
compliments of Uncle USAF, and here is the scoop as I know it for
homebrewing.
Wow, perfect choice! I think the British probably invented the
homebrew industry. Ever look at the extract kits in your local supply
store? Most of them are English made, even though the types say
Bavarian Pilsner, Dortmunder Lager, etc.etc. They started doing
homebrew to beat the Queen's taxes. They can brew a 5 gal batch, with
one extract kit and some sugar ( :-( ), for about 10p a pint. About
15 cents. Far more people homebrew over there then here! Supplies
for brewing can be bought in every chemist's shop (term for drug
store). Even the small one in our village carried things. The larger
ones like Boots the Chemist's has pressure barrels (I brought 2 back),
all the wine and beer supplies that you can stand. If you watch and
catch sales you can get extract kits for about 2 Pound 50 Pence which
is about $4.00 American. Those are the average kits, and higher
quality ones go up 1 or 2 Pounds Sterling. Generally I found that
kits are half the cost of here. My pressure barrels were 20 Pounds
each, or about $32.00. Over here the same thing costs $70-75.
You can take your B-B-Q grill, and get your American propane bottle
refilled, however there's one catch...The normal way the British buy
propane is to bring in their empty bottle, and trade it in on a full
one. There are two kinds of bottles and fittings. One for cooking
and one for heating (calor gas room heaters) I think the threads on
the heating bottle is the one that fits the American regulator. It is
cheaper to use their bottles, you get more for less. Not every little
propane supplier can fill your American bottle, because all the little
distributers send their emptys into the big plant to get them
refilled, and delivered back to their shop...so you have to locate the
nearest propane "filling station" if you want to do it that way, and
you will pay a little more for that service!
You won't have any trouble finding folks that homebrew, it is a way of
life for many. Many try and brew as cheaply as possible, hince the
sugar brewing. Well, I could talk all day, send me an email with your
further questions and I'll get you answers. I still have British
friends I keep in touch with over there.
The Braumeister in Layton, Utah U.S.A.
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Date: Sat, 16 Jul 94 14:56:51
From: aaron.banerjee at his.com
Subject: RICE WINE
I was wondering if anyone has made, or knows how to make Japanese/Chinese style
rice wine. I'm interested in learning the process. If you know a good recipe,
please contact me directly at:
aaron.banerjee at his.com
thanks.
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Date: Sat, 16 Jul 1994 12:08:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com>
Subject: Boiling stones
There was a recent thread on boiling aids to prevent boil over. Bottom
bottles, melted or otherwise, and I think some one called one such thing a
"clacker"? Basically we are talking about boiling stones, an aid to
bubble nucleation. I use bottle caps (5-10) - used ones since I generate
so many. Also used ones are nicely bent so they can't stick to the
bottom.
Cheers!
Domenick Venezia
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia at zgi.com
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Date: Sat, 16 Jul 1994 12:19:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com>
Subject: Yeast starters
I have been doing something for a while with my yeast starters that is
counter to the "standard model". It has worked well for me and I'm
describing it here to perhaps elicit comment. Using standard canning
techniques I make 1500 ml of starter solution (~1.040) and end with 3
Pilsner Urquell 550 ml bottles capped and cooling. When they are finally
at room temp 2 go into the refridgerator and one is decanted into a
sterile 1000 ml flask. This flask is innoculated and fitted with an
airlock and placed in the dark. It is allowed to ferment out and
flocculate which takes about 48 hrs. The supernatant is decanted and the
second 500 ml aliquot of wort (at room temp) is added. This one goes a
bit faster and is allowed to ferment out and floculate too. The same with
the 3 aliquot of wort. In 5-7 days I have about an inch of yeast in the
bottom of the flask, not slurry, nearly pure yeast. Now, on brew day
while transferring cool wort from kettle to carboy, I decant the 3rd
supernatant from the yeast flask and divert ~500 ml of the wort into the
flask which is refitted with the airlock. While I spend the next 30
minutes rocking and rolling my carboy to aerate, the yeast wakes up and
starts burping, then I pitch.
Why do I do this? I make my starters with light DME (no hops), a yeast
nutrient (YNB), and water. Pitching rates can require 1-2 quart or more
starters. A 2 quart starter is ~10% of the volume of a 5 gallon batch.
Even 1 quart is ~5%. This is quite a contribution to the final product.
I mean, people are worried that their keg gaskets will impart flavors and
aromas to their beer! What do you think 1/2 gallon starter of some
totally different recipe does! So that's my rational, it is an attempt
to pitch only yeast and no other ingredients into my carefully crafted
recipe.
Given that everything is done with the utmost care to sanitation (squirt
bottle of 95% ethanol, flame throwers, etc.) any comments?
Domenick Venezia
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia at zgi.com
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1478, 07/18/94