HOMEBREW Digest #1479 Tue 19 July 1994

Digest #1478 Digest #1480

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Mill efficiency, Fruit Flies, Japanese beetles (Ulick Stafford)
  Filtering vs Fining (Jack Schmidling)
  Up a Kriek! (Bill Rust)
  Anchor Screwtops? (JEFF GUILLET)
  thread21 (Chris Kinney)
  Comparison between WYEAST British and London ESB yeasts (Mark Peacock)
  get (Robert L. Striker)
  Extract Syrup to All Grain (RAYMUN)
  Re: Homebrewing in England (Tel +44 784 443167)
  Liquid Malt Extract Yeast Starter/Primer (Chris Strickland)
  racking (Chuck E. Mryglot)
  Siphoning (Guy Mason)
  Japaneese Beetles (Steve Scampini)
  Help! Flocculation, clearing, etc. (Dean J. Miller)
  Micro Beer Clubs (Bruce Kiley)
  Good News/Keg Gaskets (npyle)
  malt "fact" sheet (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  lactose help requested (Frank Haist)
  Parafilm (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  underpriming/Boiling Kettles/Elf Moron Co. Beer in SD? (Barry Nisly)
  Anchor bottle caps ("Dave Suurballe")
  Pilsner wont clear. (Steve Matkoski)
  Re: Jim Koch <tm?> (Greg Ames)
  Mash and Sparge Times (berkun)
  Tied House Peach Wheat clone? (Karl Elvis MacRae)
  honey (Bryan L. Gros)
  mailing lists (DONNA DeANGELIS-BLAINE Residence Dep)
  unsuscribe (Barkin)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 16 Jul 1994 17:26:27 -0500 (EST) From: ulick at ulix.rad.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) Subject: Mill efficiency, Fruit Flies, Japanese beetles Al K mentions a friend whose efficiency jumped from 22 to 29 after switching from a Corona to a JSP Maltmill. I remember discussing this with Jack once, as I had not noticed any significent improvement when I switched, and his comment was that he hadn't either when he tested his Corona, and reckoned, as I do, that many people who use Corona do not set the plates close enough. I doubt if Al's friend was 'shreding' his grains. My guess is he set it so no flour or shredded husks passed, leaving many untouched rgrains. This is not an efficient way to use a Corona. Brian Gowland explain succintly why fruit flies are bad, but didn't know the bacteria thay carry. It is the aerobe acetobacter, which make acetic acid (vinegar). This is one reason lambic breweries encourage spiders. They deal with fruit flies attracted to the sweet wort in open fermenters. Jim ? recommends against the application of Sevin to hops to solve a Japanese beetle problem. I must strongly disagree. You may as well feed the Japanese beetles as spray on Safer (TM) products, and no old wives' remedy worked for me last year. A beetle trap did catch quite a few, but I worried that it attracted more of the bastards than it snuffed out. I did hear of another remedy the other day-to go out in the evening and spray 'em with a mixure of alcohol and soap, but I don't know about anyone else, but I'm damned if I am going to climb up on a ladder to sray hops everyday. I dusted with Sevin around a week ago (I would have preferred liquid, but I had the dust on hand) and haven't seen a Japanese beetle on my hop plant or roses since. The packet recommends weekly application, but I'll wait till I see another one it. I will not dust for a while before harvest and everything should be OK. But if your religion doesn't allow the use of 'toxic chemicals', there are many things you can do to satisfy your god, but they are about as effective as prayer for eliminating Japanese beetles. Anyone know any critter that eats the bastards? __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at darwin.cc.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 94 11:52 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Filtering vs Fining The following comments should be taken as they are intended, viz., my opinion based on a significant investment in time, equipment and innate ingenuity. You may feel differently based on your own experience but I pass mine along for those who can use it. A comment made by Al K. some time ago caused me to review my understanding and procedures regarding beer clarity. He said something to the effect that, my beers are not particularly clear, which roused no response from me because it is more or less true. However, in defense, I don't bottle beer so he has never had a chance to see or taste one that sat around, (undisturbed) for a few months and secondly, I transfer my beer from primary directly to a 10 gal keg and have the tendency to start drinking it far too early. The last few gallons are usually clear but the chances of him stopping by at that moment are rather slim. The other motivation was.... toot! toot! My wedding reception. After much pondering, Marilyn and I decided to get married in my garden and have the reception in my house. This of course means the drink of choice is homebrew and no excuses for cludy beer. The question was, how best to clear it? I made 4, ten gallon batches (3 pilsners and one ale) and filtered one after 30 days and it is only marginally clear. The next was transferred to another 10 gal keg with one tsp gelatine dissolved in 500 ml of 170F water. After 10 days, I drew a pint or two of turbid beer, after which it ran sparkling clear. I pumped the top half to one 5 gal keg with a dip tube from the top and the rest into another keg from the normal liquid tube off the bottom. There was no difference in clarity of the two until the very bottom was reached when a bit of sludge started running out. After studying the sludge on the bottom and the manner of drawing, it seemed obvious that transferring a second time was not necessary. My kegs have the liquid tube bent toward the middle so they are about 1/2" off the bottom and that seems to be all that is necessary to keep from drawing the sludge up. There was a clear circle on the bottom about 2" in diameter which was what was brought up with the first draw and the rest stayed behind. The other two batches were/will be transferred from primary to keg with gelatine and served from this keg. This is more or less the way cask conditioned ale is cleared but it's nice to know it works so well at home and with just old gelatine. I have concluded that filtering may be appropriate for commercial operations or homebrewers that like to fuss endlessly with equipment and some folks have luck with Irish Moss but I vote for gelatine fining. js Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 94 12:18:00 -0640 From: bill.rust at travel.com (Bill Rust) Subject: Up a Kriek! Greetings Brewer's! Just a few questions regarding Kriek beers. My sister (bless her heart) sent me a can of Brewferm Kriek extract for my birthday. Well, I would like to try to do it justice with a partial mash recipe. While I was devising a recipe, I came up with a couple of questions: 1) I've heard that Kriek is a Belgian (Lambic?) style ale made with wheat. Does the Brewferm kit have any wheat malt in it?? 2) I want to have the equivalent of 10 lbs. of cherries in the recipe, and I read that the Berwferm kit already has approximately 6 lbs. worth of cherry flavoring/extract. How can that be? It's only a 3 lb can. Do they skimp on the malt extract, and should I adjust by adding more malt? 3) Any tips on yeast? I am entertaining the idea of trying a Lambic culture, but I have never tried one before. So far, I have come up with... KRIEK #1 3 lbs pale 2-row malt 1 lb wheat malt 1 can Brewferm Kriek (hopped) .75 to 1 additional AAU Hallertau pellets (45 min.) 4 lbs. cherries (in secondary) WYeast #1007 (or a Lambic culture I can get locally) METHOD (ala Dave Miller): Single step infusion mash, 153 deg. Ferment 1 week, 65 deg. Rack, add washed and crushed cherries. Ferment 4 weeks Rack to secondary (tertiary?, at least 3 weeks) Prime with 1/2 cup brown sugar and keg Age 6 weeks before tapping, 45 deg. I have many extract brews under my belt and #2 partial is coming soon. Any comments would be appreciated! +-----------------------------------------------------------------------+ | I can't say whether we had more wit amongst us | BILL RUST | | than usual, but I am certain we had more | Systems Analyst | | laughing, which answered the end just as well. | | | | Shiloh, IL | | OLIVER GOLDSMITH (1728-1774) | bill.rust at travel.com | +-----------------------------------------------------------------------+ - --- ~ SPEED 1.40 #1651 ~ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 1994 15:33:00 GMT From: jeff.guillet at lcabin.com (JEFF GUILLET) Subject: Anchor Screwtops? John Keith Hopp writes: >Plus, SA is reasonably cheap ($5-6/per) and the bottles are tough and >reusable (as Anchor has gone to crappy screw-tops). Huh? I just got back from the Anchor Brewery tour a couple of weeks ago and they're not using screwtop bottles. They use the same bottle for all of their beers (made especially for them by California Glass Company in Oakland). BTW, I don't have a problem with Jim Koch, either. I think he makes a reasonably good bunch of beers (even if he does lie in some of his commercials - he doesn't have a son who asked him the other day if he was successful, for example). =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Jeff Guillet - San Francisco, CA - <j.guillet at lcabin.com> "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing..." =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -- SPEED 1.40 [NR]: Evaluation day 74... Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 1994 18:00:10 -0600 From: Chris Kinney <cak7887 at silver.sdsmt.edu> Subject: thread21 I mailed a while back, but didn't get any response, so I hope this time somebody can help me!!! I have all the back issues of HBD on my hard drive and am trying to use the program thread21 to search for a particular pattern and then output to a file the issues that deal with that subject. All I can get it to do is to search the first file in a directory, and the search comes up empty no matter what! Help would be much appreciated! post here, or e-mail cak7887 at silver.sdsmt.edu, which ever you prefer Thanks in advance! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 1994 21:39:25 -400 (EDT) From: Mark Peacock <mpeacock at oeonline.com> Subject: Comparison between WYEAST British and London ESB yeasts First, an HBDsummary (tm) from a couple of brewers who also tried ESB: Mark Evans says about ESB: It consistently pooped at high F.G. I tried repitching saved dregs with some success; I got the FG down to about 1.016 or so, but that is still high in my book for a 1.050 OG ale. Eric Urquhart writes: The yeast has the annoying habit of dropping from suspension early and refusing to work anything past 1.020 or so. However, 2 people have used the same yeast to make very good ales which attenuated well. They were average gravity pale ales to start (about 1.045) but were fermented on the yeast cake from aprevious 5 gallon batch using the same yeast. <snip> My advice if you like it is to grow a truly massive starter and pitch only the yeast cake into the fresh wort and keep it roused (2 times a day) during fermentation. Back to my experiment... I racked both batches to the secondary after three days. At this time, the British was still burping, but the ESB was silent. The next morning, the British was silent, but the ESB was burping 1-2 times/minute. Seems that the racking woke up the ESB. I haven't taken any more SG's, but I plan to do so this week. I'll post the results when available. To the question on fermentation temperature, I ferment in my basement which was holding a fairly steady 68 F over the three-day primary. A reply to an unrelated post... after secondary comes tertiary. Mark Peacock Birmingham, MI - where in winter, you can naturally condition a lager in your basement Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Jul 1994 20:53:49 -0600 From: striker at tcm.mn.org (Robert L. Striker) Subject: get GET HOMEBREW mpmsamp1.xls Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 07:25:37 -0400 (EDT) From: RAYMUN at delphi.com Subject: Extract Syrup to All Grain Can someone give me the formula for converting extract to all grain? I have an idea how I would do it, so let me explain how I perceive it being done and someone can correct me if I'm wrong or tell me I'm right? example: Syrup Extract = 46/pts/gallon Pale Malt = 36/pts/gallon (above would be a pound each) Of course above assumes 100% extraction of Pale Malt, and extract is always 100% anyways. So for the sake of arguements lets say my extraction effecientcy if 75% when mashing. forumla= 46 / (.75 x 36) = 1.704 difference between the two malts. So if I'm understanding this correctly I would have to increase my Pale Malt amounts by 1.704. Recipe example: 8 pounds malt extract If I wanted to substitute real grain for the extract syrup, I would take 8 lbs and multiply it by 1.704, for an amount of 13.63 lbs of Pale Malt grain. Is this correct????!!!! Correct me If I'm wrong, Praise me if I'm right! This should also work in converting DME to Grain too, Right? RAYMUN at DELPHI.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 13:03:48 +0000 From: Brian Gowland <B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk> (Tel +44 784 443167) Subject: Re: Homebrewing in England In HBD 1478, staib at oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don L. Staib) writes about "Homebrewing in England" in a very positive and enthusiastic way. As a UK homebrewer, it is sad that I cannot share his enthusiasms or positive opinions of the UK homebrew industry. His comments about the range, availability and low price of extract kits are quite correct and a lot of the British public must buy these kits otherwise the shelves of the various chemists (drug-stores) and homebrew shops wouldn't carry so many. I brewed from kits for quite a long time before eventually coming to the conclusion that they were not worth the money. I'm not a homebrew snob - I would quite happily drink a kit brew - but I would prefer to make a brew either from pure extract & hops or full-grain (as I have recently started to do). The fact is that the prices that Maj Staib quoted are really the very low end of the kit market and the better quality kits will cost much more. The cheaper kits contain all sorts of sugars, syrups, colouring and flavouring and generally result in what is referred to as "the classic homebrew taste" that all kit brewers will recognise. The cheap kits that I have done have also, sometimes, resulted in some of the most hideous hang-overs that I've ever experienced. One friend stopped drinking my homebrew for several months until I converted to pure-extract brewing. Maj Staib claims that the British started homebrewing to beat the Queen's taxes. Homebrewing dates back until at least the time of the Saxon's if not well before that. In recent centuries, ale and beer were part of the staple diet of all people (children included) due to the health hazard from drinking water. The recent wave of homebrewing grew up in the 1970s as a reaction against the commercial breweries' attempts to force the public to drink the rubbish that they called beer. This is when many of the kits appeared. Unfortunately many of the kit manufacturers thought they could get away with putting rubbish in their kits (many still do but some have cleaned up their acts). This discouraged as many would-be homebrewers as those who decided to perservere. The recent discussion about the US advert. that slammed homebrewing shows an attitude that much of the UK public as well as the US public hold about homebrew being nasty, cloudy and foul smelling/tasting. Much of this opinion grew up as a result of poor quality kits with poor quality instructions. The late (great) Dave Line's books about homebrewing from the 70's were an attempt by him to educate the British public that you could make good homebrew. Ironically, the rise of CAMRA and their success in persuading the commercial breweries that we wouldn't put up with the garbage, means that commercial brew is now much more acceptable and the homebrew industry in the UK went into some form of suspended animation. It took me a great deal of time to find a homebrew shop who catered properley for people like me who wanted to learn more about the "science" (in a fun way) of brewing from extracts, hops and grains. Many shops may sell some of the raw ingredients but wouldn't know what to do with them - if you don't want a kit, your on your own. I've also been given "advice" in homebrew shops which goes completely against what I know to be correct. Maj Staib also states that you won't have trouble finding folks who brew - this to an extent is true - many people in my local pub(s) brew, but only from kits. When I start talking about extracts and grain they look at me like I'm some sort of mad scientist or a "smart-ass". The fact is that brewing as a full-time pastime/passion is very low-profile. Most people think that its more complicated than it really is. British home-brewers are often accused by US homebrewers of brewing to save money - this, I'm afraid, seems to be the case with many of them. I brew because I want to drink good homemade ale. Incidentally, I buy my raw ingedients (grain & hops) in bulk and can put together an all grain mashed brew for the same price as an average-quality kit. I save money AND I get good brew - OK it takes longer but I get a brew that I know the contents of AND I haven't had a single hangover since starting pure extract or full-grain brewing. There aren't even any home-brew societies that I know of. The best advice I could get was "find a wine-making society - many people who make wine also brew"! That was from someone in a homebrew shop! I don't wish to criticise or offend Maj Staib in any way - please don't take this as such. It is good to know that he was able to find a good group of people here that participated and that he still keeps in touch with them. The fact is, however, that much of the UK homebrewing industry is driven by the kit manufacturers themselves and many of the British public put up with that without realising that they could go further. Maybe I have just been unlucky but having "talked" to other readers of HBD and r.c.b. in the UK via email, it seems that we are few and far between. Most say that they don't have any or many friends who also brew. Keep the faith - happy brewing to all, Cheers, Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 08:38:10 -0400 From: stricklandc at cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov (Chris Strickland) Subject: Liquid Malt Extract Yeast Starter/Primer I've used used DME in the past to start my yeast starters. I use about 3-4 tbs for 1 1/2 cups water. I'm curious, I have about 3 lbs of liquid malt extract (LME) left over from my partial mashing days. Can I use this instead of the DME for starting the yeast (I keep it frozen in the freezer). Also, why couldn't I use the LME for priming? If I can use it, what adjustments in measuring should I use: 3-4 tbs of DME -> 4-5 tbs LME - Yeast starter 1 1/4 cups DME -> 1 1/2 cups LME - Primining Hows the above look? +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Chris Strickland | Allin1: stricklandc | | Systems Analyst/Statistician | Email : stricklandc at cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov | +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 08:53:07 EDT From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot) Subject: racking I have a question about racking.... eg. When is the proper time to rack to secondary. Usually I wait until the kreusen has fallen. But recently i was thinking.... should it be racked before the yeast enters autolisys (sp) and I notice the sulfer smell? Also, what might be the consequences for racking too late. Thanks, ChuckM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 09:17:25 +22305931 (EDT) From: gam at beluga.must.com (Guy Mason) Subject: Siphoning Greetings Fellow Brewers, I have a minor problem with siphoning. When I get my siphon flowing from the primary to the secondary, I end up loosing the siphon before I get all the wort out of the primary. I end up leaving about 5-6 inches of wort in the primary. I'm sure if I relaxed and didn't check every 30 seconds it would be much better, but hey I'm a nervous chef... Does anyone have some nice ascii graphics for an EasySucker(tm) or Suck-O-Matic(tm) that would hold the siphon hose in place at a proper position? _ _ O O /---------------------------uuu--U--uuu---------------------------\ | Guy Mason When Brewing is | | MUST Software International Outlawed only | | E-mail : gam at must.com Outlaws will | | Phone : (203)845-5137 Fax : (203)845-5252 Brew. | \-----------------------------------------------------------------/ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 9:24:14 EDT From: Steve Scampini <scampini at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: Japaneese Beetles I have had absolutely great luck this year protecting my garden from hordes of J. Beetles using those traps which use both a floral and a sex pheremone (sp?) lure. I have to empty the bag at least once every two days and have caught (no exageration) five pounds of bugs!! Only one or two rare beetles have found my garden. Make sure you place the trap about 30 feet away from your plants (not in amoungst them). Good Luck. Steve Scampini Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 11:14:30 From: djmiller at tasc.com (Dean J. Miller) Subject: Help! Flocculation, clearing, etc. Help, I think I may have a problem!! I brewed a barleywine a couple of weeks ago. Here is the basic recipe: 16# Alexader's pale malt extract 2 oz. black malt 1# honey 1# golden brown sugar 2-1/2 oz Hallertauer Northern Brewer Plugs 3-1/2 oz Fuggles leaf hops Wyeast Belgian Ale Yeast Champagne Yeast I boiled everything for 90 minutes with NB plugs, sparged, pitched the Fuggles, cooled and pitched the Belgian Ale Yeast, OG was 1.112. After about a week I racked to the secondary, during which time it was happily fermenting away, sg was 1.038. I added the Champagne Yeast to the secondary and it continues to ferment happily, if slowly. It has now been fermenting for 2 weeks at about 75 degrees. The problem I have is that the Belgian yeast does not seem to be flocculating or settling out of solution. I stll have at least another 3 weeks before I plan to bottle and I wanted to know if I was needlessly worrying or whether I need to be doing something different. I have never used clarifying agents and I have always had very clear beers (I always rack to a secondary). Any clues, oh assembled wisdom of beeriness?? TIA dean Dean Miller djmiller at tasc.com I'd rather be brewing... Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Jul 94 11:18:41 EDT From: Bruce Kiley <73551.3367 at compuserve.com> Subject: Micro Beer Clubs I am looking for phone #'s to the micro "beer of the month clubs" I have the # for Beer across america. I recently found a # for The Trolley-America's Beer Club (800) 638-2337. I can not the number to work properly. Does anyone know of or use this club? Are there anyother ones out there that are any good. Bruce 73551.3367 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 9:40:40 MDT From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Subject: Good News/Keg Gaskets I am happy to bring some good news to the group. A couple weeks ago I reported that my latest amber ale was possibly infected by dry hopping. I was suspicious of the hops because they were home grown and I didn't really know how they were dried/handled. I was also suspicious of my own wacko taste-buds, as I've tasted stealth flavors in beers before. Also, the fact that the beer wasn't getting worse indicated to me that infection wasn't as likely as I had first guessed. I had several others taste this beer, including the HBD's own John Palmer and nobody detected any off-flavors. I think that the harshness of the dry hops were mis-perceived by me. This harshness mellowed and the beer was fine. As a footnote, I'm starting to appreciated dry-hopping less, and finish hopping more. Dry hopping seems to me to be very susceptible to getting overdone, whereas I've never seen a beer that was over-finish-hopped. ** Also, Domenick wrote: >I mean, people are worried that their keg gaskets will impart flavors and >aromas to their beer! ... This is no brewing myth, Domenick. I have completely ruined a half keg of beer by not changing the gaskets on the keg, and I am just one of many. The aromas in the keg gaskets are insidious, and they ARE worth worrying about. Cheers, Norm = npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Jul 94 16:43:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: malt "fact" sheet Rich writes: >1.2. 2 row Lager malt 2 degrees L > >This malt is also kilned at low temperatures to preserve the color >and enzyme level. It can be lower in >enzyme and protein level than 6-row malt, but this quality depends >on the strain of barley used in the >malt. This malt is high in enzyme, and is poorly modified, so it ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This was true years ago, but virtually all base malts these days are fully modified. There are some exceptions, but what you get at the HB supply store is fully modified. Also, this malt is known as "Pils" or "Pilsener" malt. >1.3. Pale Ale malt 3 degrees L <snip> >and is less likely to produce DMS, which can lead to a 'sweet creamed >corn' aroma. Good point... it should be noted that 2-row lager (or Pils) malt has MORE of the precursors of DMS and thuss more likely to have some residual DMS in beer made with this malt. >1.4. Wheat malt 2 degrees L > >Wheat malt is a naked grain, in that it has no husk to add polyphenols, >and has a high protein content, >often causing protein haze. It is difficult to malt, and has practically >no enzymes, thus cannot convert This is a common misconception. In fact, wheat malt has quite a bit of enzymatic power and can easily convert itself without help from other grains. It cannot, however be lautered without some kind of husk or chaff to form a filter bed. By the way, unmalted wheat and unmalted barley do not have enzymes. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 09:49:09 PDT From: haist at cogsci.UCSD.EDU (Frank Haist) Subject: lactose help requested Two weekends ago I brewed up a honey ginger ale. Upon racking it to the secondary this past weekend I found that while the ginger taste was right on the mark, the body is a little too dry for my taste and is lacking any real body. In retrospect, this is not surprising given the recipe. The recipe was: Gingersnap Honey Summer Ale (5 gal) 6 lbs pale 2-row (Great Western) .5 lb wheat 3 lbs honey 1.5 oz Cascade (6.1 alpha- 60 min boil) .5 oz Czech Saaz (5.1 (?) - 10 min) 4 oz ginger (peeled and thinly sliced - 2 min boil) SNPA yeast 500 ml starter OG = 1.053 gravity at racking = 1.007 I think this beer provides me with a perfect opportunity to experiment with lactose in order to alter the body post-hoc. Having never worked with lactose what can I expect? According to Papazian lactose will not add much sweetness, which is too bad because that is one thing I'd like to add. What type of flavor or change does lactose add? How much should I use in 5 gallons (I'll probably only add it to 2.5 gallons and bottle/keg the other half without lactose to note the differences)? Any help is greatly appreciated. If there is sufficient info/interest I'll summarize what I get to the HBD. Thanks in advance. - ---Frank Frank Haist, Ph.D. UCSD Cognitive Science Dept. fhaist at cogsci.ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Jul 94 16:59:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Parafilm Sorry for the bandwidth, but my mail to Noel keeps bouncing. I'm afraid I don't have Parafilm... try sending email to Dan McConnell (Dan McC) or Jeff Frane (--Jeff). I'm sure they will be able to help you. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 11:14:56 +0800 From: barry at odf.UCSD.EDU (Barry Nisly) Subject: underpriming/Boiling Kettles/Elf Moron Co. Beer in SD? I bottled my first attempt at a porter (Plain Jane Porter) 2 weeks ago. It was an extract loosely based on Papazian's recipe for "sweet" porter. However on bottling day, I went to grab my corn sugar and remembered that I used the last of it on the previous batch. No problem, I say, I'll just use some of this honey sitting right here. After measuring it out, I find that it's just over 1/3 cup. I figure that's close enough (Papazian says 1/2 cup, right?). Primed and bottled ala Papazian. I let it condition 10 days and popped the top on one to taste it. Drinkable but terribly underprimed. No bubbles at all. No head either. Just dark brown, kind of bittersweet liquid. Now I pose my question: Is there anything I can do to (force) carbonate this batch short of buying a counter-pressure bottle filler? These are bottled in champagne bottles, which usually take longer to "condition", but after 10 days in the bottle without so much as a bubble or two I'm a little worried (I know I shouldn't be). I'll drink it but my wife and friends won't (can they truly be considered friends then? ;-)). Also, we bought our townhome in December (BTW, it's great living in a new house with new appliances) and the kitchen is laid out nicely except for the fact that the microwave over the stovetop leaves me about 13 inches of room for my boiling kettle. Right now I do extracts in a 16 qt Malaysian stainless pot that I bought from Target. Works fine for extracts but I'm feeling the need to move on to all-grain and this is the crux. If I can find a short and wide boiling kettle that holds around 7.5 gallons I'd be set. Maybe it would even fit over two burners. Is there such a beast to be had? All of the Vollraths, et al, are too tall :-(. Large propane burners intrigue me but what would the neighbors think of that setup on my balcony? Not an option (too much work/new equipment). Same with the Bruheat type stuff. No coolers either - I'd like to stick to kettle mashing. Is anyone else experiencing the same problem? I know, I can get away with partial mashes but I want to go straight to all-grain if I go at all. I'd even buy aluminum if the thing fit. By my calculations, a pot 12" tall by 14" dia. would hold just over a cu ft (which is 7.48 gal) which should be large enough to hold a 5 gal batch (~6.5 gal after sparging, right?). Any ideas? Get a keg and cut it to fit? My last batch was a Wiezen (Marital Bliss Wiezen - been married a month and loving every minute of it) and it is now bubbling away after racking. Talk about aroma, the room smelled like bananas for 4 days! I'll make sure that I have enough corn sugar for this one. One last thing - has anyone found the alleged good beer from A-B (Elk Mountain Somethingorother) in the San Diego area? I would guess the SD Brewing Co. might have it since they have what seems like gigabrews on tap. Barry Nisly bnisly at ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Jul 1994 11:29:17 -0700 From: "Dave Suurballe" <suurb at farallon.com> Subject: Anchor bottle caps john keith hopp <jhopp at unm.edu> says: "Anchor has gone to crappy screw-tops" This is not true. Anchor is crowning with the usual non-twist caps on non-twist bottles. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 15:31:14 -0500 From: sematkos at mailbox.syr.edu (Steve Matkoski) Subject: Pilsner wont clear. Hi, I brewed an extract pilsner about 3 weeks ago. It sat in the primary for about a week and then was transferred into a secondary. After two weeks in the secondary the beer has yet to clear. There is about a 1/2" of spent yeast in the bottom of the carboy. How long should I let this stay in the carboy? I would like to get it clear before bottling. TIA! -steve. sematkos at syr.edu ====================------- ---- - - CAUTION: Signature Under Construction! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 1994 16:14:55 -0400 (EDT) From: Greg Ames <tga at maelstrom.timeplex.com> Subject: Re: Jim Koch <tm?> On Thu, 14 Jul 1994, john keith hopp <jhopp at unm.edu> writes: >What's the real beef against Jim Koch <tm?>? What has been his >reprehensible behaviour so as to warrant constant derision in HBD (a >search through HBD back issues yields little detail). I have to profess, that after several months of on-again/off-again lurking, I have yet to discover the reason for this Jim Koch hated as well. I've heard his name in reference to lawsuits, but no details. >I really do want to know (natch, private replies OK-I would summarize and >re-post) You aren't the only one. :-) Greg tga at maelstrom.timeplex.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 14:17:22 PDT From: berkun at decwet.enet.dec.com Subject: Mash and Sparge Times I have been wondering about Mash and sparge times. I am new to all grain with about a half dozen batches to my name. Mash Most people seem to mash for about an hour. However, Dave Mosher's new book recommends mash times on the order of 2 to 2 1/2 hours. I've done anywhere from 1 to 1 1/2 hours. What's right? How much does it vary per style or mash temperature. Should you just do an iodine test and not worry? Sparge There has been some discussion of this lately, but still I wonder... I have had extraction rates from 22 to 30. The 30 numbers are when I use a _lot_ of water, ending up with 7 or 8 gallons, which means a very long boil. I'm not worried about getting every last point out of my grain, but neither do I like to waste too much. I have a copper manifold in a cooler. I buy my grain at a store that grinds it for me, so I don't have control over the grind and I couldn't tell a good grind from a good grinder anyway. I have recycled the first runnings (sometimes several times, just for kicks). I can control the flow easily by adjusting the faucet I placed on the cooler. It's too soon to say for sure how much that seems to affect the extraction. Is slower better? I.e. turn the faucet way down? Is more water better? I.e. end up with very long boils? Should I stir more? I don't stir much now, as it seems to cause the heat to disappear faster and I'm also concerned about HSA. Should I be perfectly satisified with 25 points? Should I mash longer? Any other ideas? Thanks! Post or email, I'll summarize replies. Ken B. Seattle Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 14:31:11 PDT From: Karl Elvis MacRae <batman at cisco.com> Subject: Tied House Peach Wheat clone? I just tried the Tied House (Palo Alto's brewpub) peach wheat. It's a prett nice beer; my wife is *nuts* for it. We want to try to produce something similar. Problem is, I am not much of a drinker of wheat beers, and have never made one. SO I need some suggestions on how to produce an extract recipe that will aproximate it. Anyone out there have any good ideas? Thanks.... -Karl -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Karl Elvis MacRae Software Engineer Cisco Systems, Menlo Park, CA, USA batman at cisco.com 415-688-8231 DoD#1999 1993 Vulcan Eighty-Eight -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- "Supermodels have webbed toes. They're separated from other mortals at birth, and raised by tibetan monks in an ashram in Escondido." -Barb, on how Supermodels are different from the regular kind. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 14:38:46 PDT From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros) Subject: honey Last week was a long post about adding honey to beer and about the Bison brewing company doing research on amounts and types of honey to use. I have enjoyed their honey basil ale in the past and have played with my own recipes for this beer, but all that work seemed a bit excessive. My question about this article was the idea of diluting honey to approximately the OG of the wort, then adding it when the beer is at high krausen. The obvious problem with this approach was also addressed; namely that of dealing with the wild yeast and bacteria that is in most honeys. But what is the advantage of this approach? Most people that have used honey in the past have, I'm sure, simply added a measured amount of honey to the boil. This takes care of wild yeast as well as dilution. So what's wrong with this approach? - Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 16:46 PDT From: DONNA DeANGELIS-BLAINE Residence Dep <REGDBD at UCSDMVSA.UCSD.EDU> Subject: mailing lists homebrew mailing list Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 22:57:43 EDT From: Barkin at aol.com Subject: unsuscribe unsuscribe Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1479, 07/19/94