HOMEBREW Digest #1500 Sat 13 August 1994

Digest #1499 Digest #1501

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Hopped Reception (Thomas J. Ryder)
  Chewing tobacco as pest control (Sean C. Cox)
  CO2 connections (Bryan L. Gros)
  Berry Beer Recipe Wanted ("Ray Siemens")
  recipe request (Kirk Williams)
  Re: CA law (Rick Myers)
  Extra bottles, Colorado Chillers (john keith hopp)
  Re:  re green priming (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Special Holiday Ale (Mark E. Perkins)
  Bad rumors..... (KWH)
  That Oaky flavor (Phil Miller)
  SG corrections again/Anchor Porter thx & info (David Draper)
  Summer's Fading Light Ale (Mark Evans)
  Another useless post - speculation on "bine" (Dan Strahs)
  Phil's Philler update (Ed Westemeier)
  what's the truth about Wyeast #1056 ? (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
  Mash set-up costs: first-time alternatives (Mark Evans)
  Re: Counter Presure Filler For Sale (Jon Higby)
  Sources for Gott 10 gallon coolers (Rich Lenihan)
  Mini-Kegs (Ralph Lambalot)
  Re: Diacetyl production (Jim Busch)
  Legal to make homebrew in West Virginia ? (Mark A. Stevens)
  Phil's Philler (Dan Listermann)
  Re: keg sanitation summary (Dion Hollenbeck)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 08:02:27 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing Yet another installment of The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing By Richard B. Webb, the Brews Brother's 1993 Homebrewer of the year part 5 The Mash (cont) 2.2. Extracts Commercial malt extracts are made in the same way as I have described above. However, the extract manufactures have taken the extra step of removing some or all of the water that the sugar is suspended in. Doing this requires a tremendous amount of energy, both in the heating of the extract, and in the vacuum process by which water is most economically removed. Furthermore, certain unscrupulous extract manufacturers have been suspected of substituting corn sugars and other cheaper sugar alternatives for malt sugar in order to increase profits on their products. All grain brewing allows you to be 100% sure about what goes into your pridefully crafted brews. There is nothing wrong or sinful about using malt extracts. There are many wonderful malt extract kits available in the market today. Extract brewers have taken many knocks concerning their "beginner" status. This is mere provincialism. The use of malt extracts allows the all-grain brewer to thicken up a batch of normally extracted sugars without the long term boiling that would otherwise be required to reduce the sugar solution to the higher gravities required for styles like bocks and barley wines. 2.3. Non-barley additives Other substances, called adjuncts, can be added to the mash or kettle for a number of reasons. The most common adjunct, at least in British style brewing are various kinds of sugars. Because the malting of barley is so labor intensive, and therefore expensive, many types of sugars have been added to the boiling kettle to stretch out the mix. Along with the previously mentioned cane and corn sugars are the intermediate steps in the production of these sugars. Molasses results from the initial boiling of the sap of the sugar cane. Condensation of molasses gives a product called brewers licorice, which tastes very similar. Further refinement yields brown sugar, and finally cane sugar. Other type adjuncts are more commonly added to the mash tun, with the most commonly added grain being wheat. Wheat is hard to malt, because it lacks a protective husk around the grain. Wheat is also higher in proteinaceous material, which can lead to a particulate haze in the final brew. However, it is impossible to make a wheat beer without wheat, so one must use it to match a particular style. Also, the use of a little wheat in the mash can contribute to improved head retention, and so many of my recipes call for a pound or so of wheat in the grain bill. Other grains can be added to the mash, but are not always malted. Rice is often used to stretch out barley sugars. In fact, the big mega-breweries use a lot of rice (and corn) to make the beer that makes the money that powers the hydroplanes and dragsters that seem to be these companies main products. Rice is not malted, but must be boiled, prepared just like you were going to eat it, to soften up the starches inside the grain. If this is not done, the enzymes provided by the barley malt will not be able to gain access to the starch in the grain. Another method of making starch available to the enzymes is used with grains like rye, oats, and corn. These grains are crushed in special rollers, with the heat released by this operation serving to cook the grain. The crushing action also makes little grain bits out of big grain bits, making enzyme access that much easier. These grains, especially rye and oats, could also be boiled, but this would allow some nasty oils to be leeched out. What other kinds of starch can be used to make beer? Your imagination (and the trust of your friends) is all that stands between you and the next big micro-brewing revolution. If you can think of a starch, it can probably be mashed into your next brewing adventure. Many cultures make their own kind of beer without knowledge of barley, but other sources of converting enzymes must be found. Sake is a type of rice beer that uses only rice for starch and sugar. A special mold is added that releases the enzyme that is responsible for this transformation. Millet and other grains are used for many intoxicating native beverages. In many cultures, it is the women's job to masticate (or chew) the grains to make them soft. Their saliva contains the same enzyme that converts starch to sugar. (This is where the trust of your friends comes in. Maybe you don't want to tell them how you made the beer until after they've tried it...) For other sources of starch, the sky's the limit. Potatoes? Sure. Pumpkins? Why not. Peanuts? OK. Chickens? Well maybe not. The important thing is not to limit yourself to doing what everybody else does. You can't learn anything if you don't make mistakes. Till next time, Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 11:49:05 EDT From: tryder at pen.k12.va.us (Thomas J. Ryder) Subject: Hopped Reception In #1498, Mark Evans told of his Hop Vine Monument. Several years ago, my brother gave me a couple of bits of cascade. I threw them into the ground right next to my deck. Two years later, it became obvious that the vine was no longer satisfied climbing to the top of my deck rail, so I trellised it to the roof of my ranch house. No longer satisfied with living the bound life of trellis vine, my cascade explored the outer limits of known space by creeping up the TV antenna which extends about 10 or so feet above the roof. Now a year later, I harvest cascade from my TV antenna while perched on a step-ladder on the roof. Although I don't reccommend this harvesting method for everyone, I personally find it uniquely exhilerating. My wife still swears that the TV doesn't bring those channels in like it used to. - -- __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ tryder at pen.k12.va.us Thomas Ryder Nathanael Greene Elementary General Delivery Stanardsville, VA 22973 "Zivela slobona Hrvatsku!" aloc tied Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 11:59:42 EDT From: scox at factset.com (Sean C. Cox) Subject: Chewing tobacco as pest control Ed Ditto mentioned using a chewing tobacco solution for beetle control, apparently an effective measure. Nicotine is used widely as a pesticide for all kinds of nasties, so it's not surprising that it works well for beetles. His caution about spraying vines vs. cones is somewhat understandable, if he's not a smoker, he probably ought to avoid it, but smokers can probably go ahead and spray everything, as they'll get far more nicotine from their cigarettes than from their hops. I'm curious as to the cost efficiency of steeping chewing tobacco vs. just buying some kind of nicotine spray at the local hardware/garden shop. -- Sean -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- -=-=- Sean Cox =-= FactSet Data Systems -=- scox at factset.com =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=EOT Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 09:08:53 -0700 From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros) Subject: CO2 connections How do people use their CO2 bottle for uses other than plugging into a keg? I mean things like purging carboys, purging hops jars for storage, and in a closed fermenation system like the one described in the latest Brewing Techniques? What sort of connections do you use? I was thinking of an open tube and just control the flow with the regulator. Is this right or are there connectors with valves out there to be had? Thanks - Bryan bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 09:12:06 PST From: "Ray Siemens" <siemens at unixg.ubc.ca> Subject: Berry Beer Recipe Wanted Well, its berry season here in Vancouver and, after sampling a framboise ale the other night, I've promised a friend that I'd make a batch of my own with some berry (blackberry, raspberry, etc.). Could anyone suggest a favorite recipe? or point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance! Ray Siemens University of British Columbia siemens at unixg.ubc.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 10:47:51 MDT From: williams at dracaena.lanl.gov (Kirk Williams) Subject: recipe request Im looking for an all-grain recipe to immitate Petes' Wicked Winter Ale. This was a seasonal beer that i first heard about last winter; and i couldn't get enough! so i thought i'd try my hand at it for this winter. It was a nutmeg and raspberry ale. Thanks! k. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 10:56:17 MDT From: Rick Myers <rcm at col.hp.com> Subject: Re: CA law Full-Name: Rick Myers Ed Quier writes: > Regarding Ca. law, I contacted the Ca. Alcohol Bev. Control who stated > that it is legal for an individual to brew 200 gals per person [adult] > with a max of 300 gal. per household per year. It is legal to take to It sounds like the person on the other end of the phone didn't know what they were talking about, and didn't bother looking it up! The FEDERAL limit is 100 gallons for one head of household, and a maximum of 200 gallons per household per year. I doubt that CA's BATF will override the federal BATF... Rick Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 12:31:24 -0600 (MDT) From: john keith hopp <jhopp at unm.edu> Subject: Extra bottles, Colorado Chillers First, I have 2 cases of 12oz refillable beer bottles (mostly SA or same type) to give away to anyone who wants them (free!). E-mail me (I live in Albuquerque, NM) if you need them. Second, does anybody remember "Colorado Chillers," made by Coors in about 1984-85? I lived in a special test market and consumed many (yes, I liked them big commercial brews back then) that year. According to an article in Southwest Brewing News (April/May '94), they were suddenly removed from the market due to the fact that they would go "skunky" when exposed to sunlight (foolish green bottles they were served in). Well, golly, I liked it. It had a very dry taste and a clean finish (unlike Zee Zima's(tm) Fresca(tm) taste). Anyone remember these? If so, have you attempted a recipe to imitate it? If anyone does, please post/e-mail a recipe (extract-based, please). Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 14:47:50 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: re green priming Chip Hitchcock writes: > I don't think it works that way---that's the point of including the > SG drop in the formula (to get not just the concentration but the actual > fermentables with this specific yeast/wort pair). Well, that would be a different formula. Let's start from "first principles". First, I'll derive my "0.004" rule of thumb: 1 "volume" of CO2 at Standard Temperature and Pressure (STP = 0C, 1atmosphere) contains (44 g/mole) / (22 l/mole) = 2 g/l Thus, 1 liter of CO2 dissolved in 1 liter of water (1 volume) is 2g/1000g = 0.2% by weight. 1 gram of "sugar" produces about 0.5 gram of CO2 when fermented. Thus a 1% solution of sugar produces a 0.5% solution of CO2, or 2.5 volumes when fully fermented (attenuated). Finally, 0.004 SG difference corresponds to a 1% sugar solution, so 0.004 SG difference results in 2.5 volumes carbonation, about right for a pilsner style, for example. Again, this assumes 100% attenuation, which you (should) get from corn sugar, but not from wort. Alternatively, to get 1 volume of CO2, you would need a .4% sugar solution, corresponding to a SG difference of 0.0016. Next, let's consider attenuation. From Fix (e-mail, HBD approximately #880), we have RE = .1808*OE + .8192*AE, where OE = original extract (i.e., extract of finished wort in deg. Plato) AE = apparent extract (i.e., measured deg. Plato of finished beer). RE = real extract of finished beer in deg. Plato Thus RA = 1 - RE / OE = .82 * (1 - AE / OE), where RA = Real Attenuation (% sugars fermented). Finally, let's go back to my equation and fix it up to take attenuation into account. I had V(b)*E(b) + V(w)*E(w) E(m) = --------------------- V(b) + E(b) rearranged to [E(m) - E(b)] * V(b) V(w) = ---------------------- E(w) - E(m) This doesn't change. But the calculation of the desired E(m) does change. Let VC be the number of volumes of CO2 desired in the conditioned beer. This requires the full attenuation of a 0.4*VC percent sugar solution, or a (0.4*VC / RA) percent wort. Thus, the desired rise in final gravity is (1.6 * VC / RA) "SG points". Thus E(m) - E(b) = 1.6 * VC / RA Plugging this into the equation above, gives VC * V(b) V(w) = ----------------------------------------- 0.51 * [1-E(b)/E(w)] * [E(w)-E(b)] - VC Finally, an example: 1.050 wort, 5 gallons of beer, FG 1.008, desired carbonation 1.5 volumes, we get E(m) - E(b) = 3.5 V(w) = 0.45gal = 1.8 quarts Starting with the equation for a given inital volume, where V(i) is the initial volume, before the wort is taken for priming, we get 1.95 * VC * V(i) V(w) = --------------------------------- [1 - E(b)/E(w)] * [E(w) - E(b)] The example gives V(w) = 1.7 quarts. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 16:00:57 EDT From: perkins at zippy.ho.att.com (Mark E. Perkins) Subject: Special Holiday Ale Fellow HBDers-- There have been a few requests in HBD lately for recipes for Holiday Brews. I have what I think is quite a unique 8*{) recipe (more like a meta-recipe, actually) that I would like to share with y'all. I haven't actually tried this one, but I think it deserves consideration. Special Holiday Ale: I was buying a glass baster at a HB supply store some time back, and commented to the guy there that my old plastic baster smelled like turkey, so I didn't want to get it near my brews. He said something about cranberry sauce that got me thinking (always dangerous, but especially so on this particular day): Why not make a variation on the Cock Ale described by Papazian in TNCJOHB, namely a Cranberry-Cock Ale, as a special brew for the holidays? 8^{0 (It gets worse....) The next day, while commuting to work, I got to thinking again (extremely dangerous so early in the morning). When I first took up brewing, and started reading HBD, someone was posting a series of articles for brewing with potatoes (you guessed it!). Why not make a Potato-Cranberry-Cock Ale? Just think about it. This could be the perfect holiday brew. On the one hand, if you don't manage to get your shopping done for holiday dinner, you could just have a few of these brews, and you wouldn't notice. On the other hand, you could serve this w/ traditional dinner and you and your holiday guests wouldn't know if you were eating or drinking. I should make it clear to the readership that I'm still fairly new to brewing. This is my first serious(?) attempt at recipe formulation. I'm not sure what the hopping schedule should be, or what yeast use. Any and all comments are, of course, welcome. Email or post suggestions for improvements and I will collate them and summarize to a future issue of HBD. Cheers, Mark perkins at zippy.ho.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 16:10 From: KWH at roadnet.ups.com (KWH) Subject: Bad rumors..... I hate to bring up such a bad subject, but a person in my brew club recently "informed" us that Dave Line had died of cancer that was in some way related to his brewing practice -- wrong use of plastic fermenters, or something. He also said that Cher Feirstein, who contributed several mead articles to the Cat's Meow and HBD, had died in similar manner. It sounded like a bunch of crap to me, but I have no idea what the actual circumstances were. Does anyone know anything about these rumors? The last thing I want to do is sound morbid, but I would like to dispell any false information about any potential dangers of homebrewing. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 17:34:02 CDT From: Phil Miller <C616063 at MIZZOU1.missouri.edu> Subject: That Oaky flavor A couple of weeks ago I posted a note regarding an oaky flavor in one of my recent brews. Well, looking at the bottlenecks, there is a ring around the neck at the beer level. This is a telltale sign of an infection. Unfortunately, it is not restricted to one bottle, each one has a ring. *SIGH* An unrelated question, while racking my brew from primary to secondary, the brew splashed and I'm afraid of that I aerated it. I have had no activity since racking it (There still was some activity in the air lock on the primary before I racked) and was wondering if aeration may cause fermentation activity to subside or stop altogether. I have a tight seal on top, so I don't think fermentation gasses are escaping. Any ideas, yonder homebrewers, on aeration and the problems it causes. "A circus ain't shucks| Phil Miller to a church!" | Dept. of Economics from Mark Twain's | University of Missouri, Columbia Tom Sawyer | Internet: c616063 at mizzou1.missouri.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 09:36:23 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <David.Draper at mq.edu.au> Subject: SG corrections again/Anchor Porter thx & info Dear Friends, in response to my posting of Dave Line's SG correction table and query about whether it still holds up, I got some clear responses, some private and a post or two. Unfortunately Line's table is WAY off at temperatures >110-120F. The best correction procedure I got came from Christopher Lyons via Domenick Venezia. This is an equation generated from a third-order polynomial fit to SG vs T data in the CRC Handbook (the "Rubber Handbook") and is as follows (T in F): Correction = 1.313454 - 0.132674*T + 2.057793e-03*T^2 - 2.62763e-06*T^3. This is a big change from the Line approach. As an example, consider a wort whose gravity we measure as 1.030 at various temps (ok, so it is a series of worts <g>). Here are corrected gravities using the polynomial and Line's table that I posted the other day (again, no correction at 60F): Measured grav = 1.030 T, F Poly says: Line says: 50 1.029 1.029 70 1.031 1.031 80 1.033 1.032 90 1.034 1.033 100 1.036 1.037 110 1.038 1.041 120 1.040 1.046 130 1.043 1.051 140 1.046 1.058 150 1.049 1.065 160 1.052 1.073 170 1.055 1.083 Wow! If you believe Line and measure your gravity at high temperature, you are going to be miles from reality. Not much change at pitching temps though, so for me, I have got the ABV about right for my beers but it looks like I have been overestimating my extraction rates some by using Line's values for T in the 120-130F range. Bummer. All is not rosy for the polynomial though, because I performed my simple test of reading the gravity of the same liquid at several temperatures to see if I got the same results. A poster in yesterday's digest (sorry I didn't write down your name) rightly pointed out that one must be careful about influences of T distributions and the shape of the testing vessel. I tried to minimize these by suspending my (sanitized of course) hydrometer in the brewkettle after a thorough stir, so that my T and grav readings were reproducible in at least 3 readings at each T. Results: T, F Measured grav Poly adjusted Line adjusted 176 1.024 1.052 >1.066 (Table ends at 170F) 120 1.038 1.049 1.058 92 1.044 1.049 1.049 So, we seem to be converging with the poly, but not with Line, and the differences are smaller with the polynomial. I conclude from this that Dave Line's SG correction should NOT be used--the polynomial, although apparently not perfect, is a big improvement. Finally, thanks to the several people who got back to me about the yeast used in Anchor Porter. The summary is that, up until about a year ago, they used the same yeast as in the Steam (2112?), but have now changed to an ale yeast. So there is nothing sinful in using 2112 to make a Porter (data above on SG come from said Porter, BTW). Cheers, Dave in Sydney - -- ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper at mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428 ....I'm not from here, I just live here.... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 18:45:42 -0600 From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans) Subject: Summer's Fading Light Ale Seen lots of requests for specific recipes on the board. Here's one I worked up, and I thought it was sorta unusual. Perhaps someone else might enjoy it. It's another thing to do with that stray Alt yeast you might have lurking around the fridge. "Summer's Fading Light Ale" (the light refers to the color not the strength) 8# DWC pale malt 1# DWC aromatic malt 1 oz. caramel malt--30lovi 2# light clover honey 2 oz. grated fresh ginger--45 min 1/4 oz. chinook--full boil 1/2 oz. cascade--25 min. 1/4 oz. cascade--steep 1/4 oz. cascade--dry hopped in secondary--16 days alt yeast (headstart cultures) 4th pitch 3/4 c. dextrose to prime. mash: 122f--15": 150f+ 90" Boil: 75" ferment temp: 70 F Primary: 5 days; secondary: 16 days OG: 1.055; FG: 1.009 (Honey really lowers the FG!) has a beautiful blonde color with a rosey tinge. Chinook and ginger really blend with the cascade. Slightly warm but refreshing. Enjoy! Mark Evans ================================================================= | Mark Evans Dubuque, Iowa | | Practitioner of | * | Visual, Literary, and Zymurgistic arts | * | Evanms at LCAC1.Loras.edu | | 319-582-3139 | ================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 17:30:32 -0500 (EST) From: Dan Strahs <STRAHS at msvax.mssm.edu> Subject: Another useless post - speculation on "bine" Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> wrote: >I'm curious if anyone has a complete etymology for the word "bine". >My American Heritage College Dictionary has the following: > > bine n. The flexible twining or climbing stem of certain > plants, such as the hop or woodbine. [Alteration of BIND, > VINE.] > vine n. 1.a. A weak-stemmed plant that derives its support > from climbing, twining, or creeping along a surface. b. The > stem of such a plant. > >Not much help in determining how hop stems got their own word. My >Webster's Unabridged at home isn't much help either. The alteration >is fairly obvious, but why the separate designation? Any linguists >out there have an answer? Not that I'm a linguist in the end 8~). But as many of us know, hops are closely related to hemp, which is used to make rope and twine. Seems like, long before hops were put into beer, they might have been used for a similar purpose. Hence, bynde -> bind ->bine. Just an observation - I can't fall back on blaming authorities for this possible faux-pas. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 08:39:30 +0500 From: ed.westemeier at sdrc.com (Ed Westemeier) Subject: Phil's Philler update In HBD 1499, George Kavanagh said about Phil's Philler: > I have used same for about 5 batches and find it a good > replacement for the inexpensive "valve-on-the-end-of a-cane" > filler. It does take some getting used to, as it is not spring > loaded as the cane end valve is (don't hold it upside down; > the beer will flow!) > However, it does fill with less agitation, and the fill level remains > the same when you remove the filler. > I recommend it as a useful addition to your brew gadget > collection. I too have used this clever gadget for years, and really like it. Although George's comment has been correct until now, I noticed the other day at a homebrew supplly dealer that the current models ARE NOW SPRING-LOADED! Very nicely done, and the spring seems to be of good quality. I think the best bottle filler has just been made even better. I think the price is the same, too. Disclaimer: Although I know Dan Listermann, I have no connection with his business -- just a satisfied customer. Ed Westemeier, Cincinnati, Ohio. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 09:20 EDT From: CSS2 at OAS.PSU.EDU (SPEAKER.CURTIS) Subject: what's the truth about Wyeast #1056 ? I'm very confused about Wyeast #1056; many folks on the HBD talk about it as "Sierra Nevada's yeast". Someone else came back and said that it is not SN's yeast.In the last issue of Zymurgy's yeast guide, the say it is Sierra's yeast.A day or two ago, someone came back on the digest and said it isn't... Does anybody know for sure??? I've also heard that SNPA has a different yeast used for bottle conditioning vs. fermentation...again, anybody know for sure??? Confused in PA Curt css2 at oas.psu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 08:53:00 -0600 From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans) Subject: Mash set-up costs: first-time alternatives The recent thread on mash set-up costs has been fascinating, but I imagine it could be daunting for a shy, wanna-bee all-grainer. And while a cadillac set-up often makes a superior brew, one can scrounge for equiptment and still make excellent beer. Then, as prosperity arrives, upgrade each component. This is my set-up--which has been only marginally upgraded in the last few years. My brew fans (wife, friends, and family) love my brew and my kids still get new clothes each year when school starts. ;^) (this is definitely a five gallon set-up) 5 gal. enamelled/steel pot (got it from mom :^) 6 gal. enamelled/steel pot (got it a flea market near Maquoketa, Ia. for $5; I'm careful with the handles. (when my big pot doesn't hold all the wort, I just put the excess in the other, boil, and combine in the carboy. it's only a minor hassle.) Listerman sparge system (my big purchase) $34.95 (this replaced my leaky old Zapap lauter) Immersion Wort chiller (a major mash component need): 25 ft. of 3/8 copper ($18) bent into a coil; plastic hosing for each end(12 ft: $6) hose clamp ($1.50) replacement coupling for faucet ($2) mash tun: a box large enough to hold my brew pot. The box is lined on all sides with 1/2 inch rigid styrofoam insulation (A la Papazian). I found the insulation in the cellar of a house I rented. Heat source; a four burner gas stove ( a friend gave it to us) Total for this stuff? About $75 bucks. There is a bit of moving around in my system. The floor always needs mopping afterward. The grains that don't get to my compost get slurped up by the dog. My next move is to get one of those Phil's Phillers. Then perhaps a nice SS 7-10 gallon pot. No...I better wait until after I get my degree in December. Never worrying and brewfully yours, Mark Evans Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 94 9:17:08 CDT From: unisql!jonh at cs.utexas.edu (Jon Higby) Subject: Re: Counter Presure Filler For Sale In a recent HBD, Timothy Sixberry says: > Yes I bought a CPF from Braunk( what ever), and I can't stand the thing. I > had every problem previously mentioned and more. Then some kind soul here > on the digest suggested just sticking a plastic tube up my beer tap, and > just filling right from the tap. I went exactly the opposite way - first the tube on the end of the tap to the Braukunst CPF. Bottling from the tap produced 30% foam and lost a fair amount of carbonation. Here is how I use the Braukunst CPF successfully: 1.) I put a bunch of ice and water in an empty keg with a little sterilizer (iodine based). I use this right before I start bottling to completely cool the CPF. Otherwise, the first 2-3 bottles have more foaming as the CPF cools down. This is not unique to the Braukunst CPF, it is part of the reaction when a carbonated liquid is warmed up. 2.) Completely chill all the bottles (I put mine in the freezer with a cap loosely placed on top). 3.) Have your keg as cold as possible. 4.) The procedure: A.) Purge the bottle with CO2 B.) Cover the release valve with a finger to allow the pressure to build up (2-3 seconds). Then shut off the gas valve. C.) Turn on the beer valve. Notice that since your finger is still covering the release valve, that no beer flows in. D.) Slowly let pressure out of the release valve so that the bottle fills slowly. You should have very little foaming. I never completely remove my finger from the release valve - it flows to fast then and causes a lot of foaming. E.) When the liquid level reaches the desired point in the bottle, completely cover the release valve again. Some foam may come out the release valve before the liquid is at the desired level, but after 3-4 bottles I don't get any foam coming through the pressure release valve. F.) Turn off the beer valve. G.) Keep you finger over the release valve for another 3-4 seconds. Slowly remove your finger from the release valve (lets the little pressure in the head space out). H.) Remove the CPF, cap. I.) Go back to A.) 5.) Run some more of the solution in step 1.) through the CPF and release valve to clean it. > > So- COUNTER PRESURE BOTTLE FILLER FOR SALE !! Used once and never again. > $20 If your still interested drop me a line. > Part of why I bought the Braukunst CPF, was the money back if not satisfied clause. Send it back and get your $36 refund. I think if you try my method first, you'll end up keeping it. For those of you who have a non-Braukunst CPF, the pin/ball valve on your CPF where you release the CO2/air from the bottle is a pressure relief valve (releases at about 6 PSI) on the Braukunst CPF. I simply use my finger to control the flow / release rate from the bottle. I also have no problems filling bottles all by myself. Jon - -- Jon Higby ---- UniSQL, Inc. ---- email: unisql!jonh at cs.utexas.edu Denial clause: Prices subject to change w/o notice, actual mileage may vary. Fat-free, high fiber, tastes great. If you've read this far, you must be looking for this: Any opinions I expressed are just that - my opinions. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 11:10:56 -0400 (EDT) From: rlenihan at world.std.com (Rich Lenihan) Subject: Sources for Gott 10 gallon coolers If you are unable to locate a source for Gott 10 gallon cylindrical coolers, send a check for $46.75 to: Rubbermaid Specialty Products P.O. Box 547 Dept. K Winfield KS 67156-0547 The model number is 1610. This price includes S&H (within US). If you have questions, call 800-347-3114. Sorry, I don't know what the non-800 number is. Other sources include: Builders Square Ace Hardware True Value Hardware Servistar Hardware BTW, the person I spoke with at Rubbermaid thought I would be foolish to buy directly from them since I "could probably get it much cheaper locally". Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find it myself so I'll probably send them a check RSN. -Rich Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 11:02:55 -0400 (EDT) From: Ralph Lambalot <lambalot at walsh.med.harvard.edu> Subject: Mini-Kegs I recently purchased a 5 liter mini-keg setup. I'd appreciate if anyone would share their mini-kegging experiences with me by e-mail. Many thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 11:21:25 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Re: Diacetyl production Algis wrote: > Subject: Oxygen during fermentation > > aeration of post-ferment beer. During fermentation, the addition of oxygen > increases diacetyl production. > >At Samuel Smiths brewery in Tadcaster, they use a yeast that is so highly >flocculent that they must pump beer from the bottom of the fermenter and >spray it onto the top (Yorkshire Stone Squares, BTW). I've seen this in >person and I can assure you there was plenty of oxygen available, both for >me to breathe and for the spraying beer. The spray was fan-shaped, perhaps >a 45 degree angle and perhaps three feet in width when it disappeared into >the frothing head. The increased diacetyl production is certainly verified >by tasting the beer -- SS Old Brewery Pale Ale has a strong diacetyl >component. Sounds like a classic British technique. This is commonly done in several Peter Austin Breweries. Funny, the Austin systems typically use Ringwood yeast which is a high diacetyl producer anyway. Some folks just cant enough diacetyl. Personnaly, I dont mind some, but a lot of these beers push the levels way beyond what I prefer. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 94 10:56:24 EDT From: Mark A. Stevens <stevens at stsci.edu> Subject: Legal to make homebrew in West Virginia ? There's been a lot of discussion the last couple days about the legality of homebrewing in West Virginia, sparked by Paul Stokely's story of a friend who had his beer & equipment confiscated. Everyone was quick to accuse the cop of being ignorant and overzealous, but maybe he knew something we don't. (Did you notice that *NOBODY* cited an actual state code or a binding court decision???) Lots of observations about how there are homebrew supply shops in the state, and how there are homebrew clubs, but that doesn't prove much. When did Georgia finally sanction homebrewing? I believe it was only in the past few months. Yet there have been clubs there for years. The existence of clubs and shops doesn't really prove anything about the status of the law. I decided to try to find out what the situation really was. I called AHA and they said the law is not clear, but that they would send me some info explaining what they knew about it. (Hopefully I'll get this soon and it might help explain things a bit--- send me email if you want to know what AHA sends me). Paul mentioned that his friend's lawyer did not know whether or not homebrewing was legal, so I decided to call my own lawyer. He also did not know offhand (I guess the question doesn't come up too often ;-). He did, of course, offer to research it for me and is perfectly willing to find the relevant statutes.... if I agree to pay his fee. I declined for now...I'm curious, but not curious enough to break out the checkbook! I've also been corresponding by e-mail with Bill Henson (awchrd2 at peabody.sct.ucarb.com) who reports that he called several offices in the state government, including the Attorney General's office and the Alcoholic Beverage Commission, and was told that they do not specifically have any law that prohibits homebrewing, so their offices consider homebrewing to be legal by the fact that it is not specifically prohibited. In any case, it sounds to me like there may not be any state law on the books that specifically allows homebrewing, but that there's also nothing that specifically bans it. Because the law is silent on the question (or at least real quiet) it could be that a cop is within the bounds of reason to think that laws applying to commercial alcohol producers (especially tax laws) should apply to homebrew as well. If the state has a law on the books requiring licenses and tax bonds for any brewery, but doesn't specifically exempt home brewers, then it certainly seems like the cop might be justified in thinking that homebrewing is an illegal activity. Maybe not "justified", but perhaps also not "ignorant". In any case, before we bash this cop anymore, we ought to find out for sure whether *HE* is the ignorant party here, or whether *WE* are the ones who are ignorant. If anybody finds solid proof either way, please post. Cheers! - ---Mark Stevens stevens at stsci.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Aug 94 09:37:14 EDT From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Phil's Philler I want to thank George Kavavagh for the nice things he said about Phil's Philler. There is one thing I would like to point out though; all of the phillers produced since October of 1993 ( about half of all sold) have a light stainless steel spring in them which makes them much easier to use and has allowed for an opening of the porting for better flow. Dan Listermann Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 94 09:55:16 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: keg sanitation summary >>>>> "Adrien" == Adrien Glauser <Adrien_Glauser at tvo.org> writes: Adrien> First: Do NOT/NEVER use chlorine (an acid) or any abrasive Adrien> substance to clean your kegs. The reason being is that Adrien> chlorine will eat the keg, leaving small pits, and any Adrien> abrasive substance will also scrape and pit the inside of the Adrien> keg. These pits and scrapes are perfect places for bacteria Adrien> and other stuff to hide in. Think of it being compariable to Adrien> plastic fermentors. Once they are scratched, you might as well Adrien> through them out. With steel wool, small fragments break off Adrien> and get stuck in the stainless and this will make your beer Adrien> taste bad. Again, not a good thing. Adrien> Some people did mention that you can use chlorine/bleach. The Adrien> trick is to use a concentration that is weak enough and use a Adrien> short expose time to reduce the time that the chlorine has to Adrien> eat your keg. <- "Not with my expensive kegs you don't!" Agreed that abrasives should not be used. Agreed that steel wool is horrible, it will even cause rust to appear on the surface of the SS because the steel is embedded in the SS and the steel is rusting. However, I have to disagree about chlorine. At least over in rec.crafts.brewing (and I think in HBD also) John Palmer who is a metallurgist gave an excellent explanation of use of chlorine. Chlorinated products are safe if you use them in the concentrations appropriate for sanitization, you do not let them sit in contact with the SS for extended periods of time (days) and you fill the keg completely with sanitizer solution. The problem arises at the top of the liquid where it meets air. Some interaction with oxygen goes on right there and nowhere else that causes the free cholrine concentration to go way up and it then can indeed pit the SS. I have been using CTSP on my kegs for a year with no ill effects. I use 1 TBS per gallon of hot water, completely fill the keg and leave it to sit for 20 minutes and then thoruoghly rinse out. John, care to correct me in any errors? If you are not on HBD, then I will forward back into HBD. dion Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1500, 08/13/94