HOMEBREW Digest #1503 Wed 17 August 1994

Digest #1502 Digest #1504

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Brewing Belgian Beers (#3): Doubles ("Phillip Seitz")
  Re: Berry Beer Recipe wanted (David_Arnone)
  Beer King Kegs (Mark Montminy)
  keg --> brew kettle (George Tempel)
  gott vs ? ("Charles S. Jackson")
  Re:Hydrometer readings (Jim Busch)
  Lautering (George J Fix)
  Book Review (George J Fix)
  Forfeiture Law ("Upward, not Northward!")
  Lab Service (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Comments on keg fermenting (Rick Dante)
  mash #29 ("Anton Verhulst")
  yeast (CLAY)
  BJCP PREP QUESTIONS (brew.hawaii)
  Keg Fermenting (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Kegs from friend (Dan deRegnier)
  Happy Holidays Homebrew Comp ("Ginger Wotring, Pharm/Phys")
  boiling grains?? (mdemers)
  Going to Germany, looking for things to do (Erik Mitchell)
  bad sanitizing ??? (Chad Reiber)
  Trip from DC to Stoudts Brewery ("CANNON_TOM")
  Pilsner Urquell date code (ALKinchen)
  Various items ("Harrington, Stephen J")
  Tumbleweed (Chris Lovelace)
  Water Heater Elements (Rich Larsen)

****************************************************************** ** NOTE: There will be no digest administration from August 15 ** through August 26. PLEASE be patient when requesting changes ** or cancellations. ****************************************************************** Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 09:14:33 -0400 From: "Phillip Seitz" <p00644 at psilink.com> Subject: Brewing Belgian Beers (#3): Doubles Brewing Belgian Beers (#3): Doubles Description: 1.060-1.070, 6-7.5% ABV, 18-25 IBU, 10-14 SRM Dark amber to brown. Sweet malty aroma. Faint hop aroma ok. Medium to full body. Malty, plum-like flavor. Very low bitterness, no hop flavor. Medium to high carbonation. Low esters ok. No roasted flavors or diacetyl. This beer focusses on malt flavors, and doubles should be malty and sweet with a noticeable plum character. Modest alchohol flavor is ok, as are low levels of esters, but the malt flavors should predominate. Doubles are usually full-bodied with fairly moussy carbonation that produces a very nice head. Brewing method: As with all Belgian beers the base should be pilsner malt with various amounts of caramel malts (Belgian varieties work especially well here, including both Caramunich and Special B) and a portions of sugar to control body (start with one pound per 5 gallons). Roasted malts can also be used for coloring, but should not be tasted. Toasted Belgian malts contribute a pleasantly nutty flavor, and these can be used in fairly high quantity (+/- 2 lbs for a 5 gallon batch). However, their use requires mashing. Yeast choice seems to offer some flexibility, though strains with a smooth, fruity character complement the raisin/plum flavors of the caramel malts better than yeasts yielding spicy flavors. Extract brewers will not be able to use the Belgian toasted malts, but otherwise should be able to produce a nice, malty brew. Start with pale extract and a hefty infusion of Belgian caramel malts, then add sugar to the kettle. Common problems: 1) Solvent/banana flavors. Fermentation defects due to high temperature ferments or poor yeast health seem to be the most common problem. Cooler ferments, higher pitching rates and more aeration should help. 2) No plum flavors. Needs more caramel malts, or a switch to Belgian varieties. Belgian Munich and Special B may be especially helpful. 3) Excessive alchohol. Even a good double will often taste like malt with a layer of alchohol over it, but this can be overdone. Fusels are particularly unwelcome. Reduce fermentation temperature or the quantity of adjuncts. 4) Inappropriate carbonation. Carbonation should be moussy, but should not interfere with your ability to appreciate the flavors. Adjustment in priming or longer bottle conditioning may be needed. Commerical examples: Westmalle Dubbel (6.5% ABV), Affligem Double (7% ABV), Grimbergen Double (6.2% ABV), Steenbrugge double (6.5% ABV) Sample recipe: Andy Anderson's Aaron's Abbey Ale (slightly revised) ANDERSO_A at HQ.NAVSEA.NAVY.MIL All grain recipe for five gallons: 9 lb Belgian pilsner malt 2 lb Belgian biscuit malt 1 lb Belgian aromatic malt 4 oz Special B 1 lb Dark candy sugar 1.4 oz Tettnang pellets (4.4%) boiled for 60 minutes (goal is 25 IBU) 0.5 oz Hallertau Hersbrucker plug (2.9%), boiled for 5 minutes 1 Tablespoon Irish Moss, boiled for 15 minutes Fermented with 1 quart Chouffe yeast Primed with 1 pint of Chouffe yeast and 4/5 cup dextrose OG: 1.065 FG: ? Process: The malt bill assumes an extraction of 25 points/lb, so adjust to fit your brewing setup. Mash schedule: 1. Protein rest for 30 minutes at 120F 2. Boost temp straight to 158F for saccrification. Hold until conversion is complete. 3. Mashout at 170F for 10 minutes and sparge with 170F water. Fermentation: I started it at 58F but the Chouffe yeast was extremely sluggish. When I increased the temp to 60F the fermentation took off. Keep the ferment temp low or the fusel levels will greatly increase. Bottling: The Chouffe strain is not a highly flocculating yeast. [Phil's note: I disagree, but this is Andy's recipe...] Either accept murkiness, do multiple rackings, briefly lager the beer to drop the yeast, or use some sort of finings. I used multipe rackings and finings. In any event, when priming use a greater amount of sugar (4/5-1 cup dextrose) and pitch some new and healthy chouffe. Ageing: Give this beer at least 1-2 months before drinking. I really needs time to mature (just as we all do). [Phil's notes: Looking at this recipe I'd probably substitute one pound of caramunich for one pound of biscuit, but I can't really complain--I was one of the judges that gave this beer first prize at the AHWBTA] Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 09:24:57 EDT From: David_Arnone at Warren.MentorG.com Subject: Re: Berry Beer Recipe wanted Well, I have a number of fruit beer recipes under my belt. Unfortunately, I don't have any on hand. However, I can offer some observations. In the berry catagory I've used strawberry, blueberry and raspberry. Other fruits I've tried include apple and cherry. In my opinion, I liked the contributions of raspberry and apple over the others. I have found that cherry, blueberry and strawberry offer too much of a sour. citrus-like tang, especially as they age. Of course, it matters how much fruit you add as well. I don't like overpowering my brews with fruit taste. With the raspberry I think I used 2 lbs for 6 gallons. There are several recipes in the Cat's Meow. Dave Arnone dja at warren.mentorg.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 9:42:25 EDT From: Mark Montminy <markm at merlin.dev.cdx.mot.com> Subject: Beer King Kegs This is my first post to the digest, be gentle :) I recently purchased a Beer King mini keg setup. For those unfamiliar with these, they are the 1-1.5 gal "tin" kegs with a plastic (or metal) tap that uses the small food grade CO2 cartridges for dispensing. I only kegged one keg of my first batch. I didn't want to waste an entire batch if I messed something up, good thing :) At the advice of the shop owner, I primed as usual (3/4 cup mixed in bottling bucket). To compensate for the overpriming in the keg, we thought I should leave minimul headspace in the keg. Did that. In case you're wondering, the reason for the 3/4 cup was because the rest of the batch was going into bottles. The problem, after about a week in the keg, it all of the sudden developed a nice "kink" in the top of the keg at the seam, presumably due to pressure. I immediately tapped the keg to relieve the pressure (and my wife's concern about cleaning the kitchen). As expected, the first several glasses (without the aid of the CO2) were foam. After a bit it calmed down. I screwed in the CO2, adjusted the valve until it sounded like the keg was pressurized, and all seemed well. The next few days I was able to draw a few glasses, then nothing, no pressure. The CO2 was dead. I tossed in another, hoping to drain the keg and figure out what went wrong later. I managed to get 2-3 more glasses before it was spent as well. I've got two possible theories. 1, my tap is hosed and has a gas leak. It sounds like it does. 2, the "kink" in the keg is keeping the tap from sealing against the bung. If this was the case though, I would think the natural carbination would having leaked out over the first night. It seemed to hold, it's just the added CO2 that seems to leak right out. I'm open to any suggestions as to how to determine where the problem could be. I'll buy a new keg for my next one to be sure it isn't the keg, but I'd also like to somehow test the tap. I'd also appreciate any hints/tips others have on priming/cleaning/etc. - -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Internet: | Fidonet: markm at merlin.dev.cdx.mot.com | mark_montminy at bloomco.bilow.uu.ids.net Motorola Codex (617)821-7187 | The Bloom Beacon BBS (508)399-7536 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Nothing cures insomnia like the realization that it's time to get up. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 08:50:11 +0000 (U) From: George Tempel <tempel at MONMOUTH-ETDL1.ARMY.MIL> Subject: keg --> brew kettle keg --> brew kettle Hi all... Has anyone posted directions on modifying a keg into a brew kettle? I've got an AB-Bud keg (with the metal handles up top, no rubberized plastic on top or bottom) and would like to Sawzall the top dome out of it and add a drain/false bottom to it. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance ty Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 94 19:53:22 CDT From: "Charles S. Jackson" <sjackson at ftmcclln-amedd.army.mil> Subject: gott vs ? Fellows Brewers, I am moving along the path to all-grain (walking slowly) and collecting the needed items. I have brew kettle from BCI on the way with the requisite nipple and gas cock in hand (thanks Steve Kemp) ready to install. Built my immersion chiller today (< $20.00 with tubing and fittings) and already had a propane burner from a fish cooker (175,000 BTU) I inherited. My question, that I have grappled with since first beginning to consider all-grain is which type of mash system. I know this has been hashed and re-hashed but I never saw it presented like: "I perfer this system because..." and "My thingy(tm) is better than his because..." I am leaning toward the 10 gal gott but wonder about all the hype regarding wierd chemicals leaching out under the conditions (hot) that the plastic was not intended to take. The mail order place that I get my stuff(tm) has a system like phil's but all SS (read$$). I like the idea of a round design because I like the looks of phil's sparger. I haven't read any negative posts about it and the gentle action seems to be just the thing. Private or post@ your descretion. And thanks to all you brewmeisters out there. Everybody here is a brewmeister when talking to me. Thanks to Rich for the info on Gott/Rubbermaid. While Rubbermaid may *think* we can get cheaper locally, they are wrong. at least in my metropolitan area of Alabama. I found the 10 gal'er at the local Ace Hardware for the all time low price of 49.49. I'll save myself three bucks, wait a few days to get it. With the three bucks I can buy 4 bottles of Bass Ale. Steve - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- "Brewing beer is far more exciting when it both a hobby AND a felony!" The Alabama Outlaw Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 11:29:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Re:Hydrometer readings > 1). Can I oversaturate the O2 content of the wort using pure O2? IN theory, yes. IN practice at running times of an hour or less, and not injecting, you will not achieve oversaturation. > > 2). Should I still put a bacterial filter in-line between the O2 > tank and wort? Not a bad idea, but probably not needed. Be sure the O2 does not have any anti_fungicide in it. > > 3. Always read at the bottom of the meiniscus : | | | | > (the bottom of the u's --->) |\_/| |\_/|<-- tube wall > | | | | > | > hydrometer Usually this is true. Some hydrometers read from the top of the meiniscus, check the hydrometers literature. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 10:24:20 -0500 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Lautering Chuck writes: >From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot) >Subject: Sparging rate and George Fix > Last night I was reading the article by George Fix in the latest issue of >Zymurgy. It is an article on grain crushing and had some interesting statements >about extraction and sparging. I'll try to paraphrase... George wrote that >he gets much better malt flavor with a quicker rather than slower runoff. >For his 13.3 gallon system this was 20 - 30 minutes... and evidently he does >not suffer from poor extraction. (This would linearly extrapolate to about >7 - 11 minutes for 5 gallons, my calculations). He recognized that many >homebrewers sparge at 2 or 3 times this rate and attributed it to equipment >and/or poor crush. I do not believe optimal run off times scale well with respect to brew volumes. A striking case in point is provided by the recent article "Lautering: Back to the Basics" which appeared in MBAA Tech. Qr. (Vol.30, No.3, 1993). The authors are senior brewers at Millers, and they describe their lautering procedures in detail. There is much here of conceptual interest, their intriguing mash up/vorlauf procedure being a case in point. However, their flow rates, which range from 700-750 bbls./hr. for the first wort to 900-1000 bbls./hr. during sparging, are of zero relevance for us. Their batch size is 1100 bbls., and they collect 1200 bbls. of sweet wort to get this. Counting up the times quoted their total time is near 120-130 mins. I have a mash tun which has a working capacity of 15.5 gals. It also doubles as a lauter tun. It has a ss false bottom similar to those found in Diversified Metal Engr. systems. The slot width is .6mm = .025 inches. Assuming a reasonable crush (say by a MM or whatever) I can achieve a maximal flow rate of 1 gal. per min. Before I started doing test brews for my new book I was operating it at 1 gal. per 6 mins. during sparging. This lead to run off times of 50-60 mins. after recirculation (vorlauf). I found as far as the malt flavor of beer is concerned a rate near 1 gal per 3 mins. gave the best results. I mentioned this in the Zymurgy article simply to put a bug in the ear of those who enjoy playing around with such things. When optimizing flow rates for one's own system do not rule out a priori shorter run off times. Try different schemes and see what they give you in terms of finished beer flavors. I should also say that the effect is marginal and not major. There are indeed more important issues. >Also, I got the impression that he measures extraction directly from the >mash before runoff. >If George is reading this, possibly he can elaborate... eg, his sparge times, >equipment, extraction measurement techniques, his extraction rates... I track the SG throughout the mash since this gives a clear indication of how well grain carbohydrates are being dissolved. (A refractometer makes such readings a piece of cake!). What is striking is how different temperature programs give such dramatically different results. I will summarize my findings in a post latter this week. Cheers! George Fix Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 10:24:47 -0500 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Book Review I have just completed a review of the book "Beer and Wine Production" published by the American Chemical Society. The complete review will appear in an upcoming issue of Brewing Techniques. This book quite simply is a gem. It follows a previous book "Chemistry of Wine Making" which was published ACS in the 1970s, and now is regarded as a classic. That beer now gets an equal footing shows how far our beloved libation has grow in esteem during the last few decades! Even the articles on wine making in this volume are of interest to brewers. A striking example is the article on Bretts. There has been a serious flame fest between selected academic types in or near Davis, Ca. and selected wine makers (many of whom live in France) over the value of the "Brettanomyces flavor" in wines. It make the flames seen on HBD seem like child's play! In any case the article on Bretts in this volume is one the most balanced and well documented ones I have seen in English. Brewers of Belgian beers will find much of interest here. The other major article is on beer oxidation, and was written by N.J. Huige of Miller Brewing. This too is a balanced and well documented essay. Much to my surprise my own work on HSA gets quoted. In spite of this defect the author does a terrific job of linking up oxidative mechanisms with finished beer flavors. Brewers and judges both will find much of value here. There are other interesting articles, and the whole is going to make this one a classic. George Fix P.S. I have just finished Darryl Richman's new book on Bock beer, and it too is a gem. It is fortunate that it is possible to brew and read at the same time for there is a lot of good stuff out there! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 11:28:02 -0500 (EST) From: "Upward, not Northward!" <CULP1405 at splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu> Subject: Forfeiture Law Greetings All, this is a short note from the fringe. I don't know much about the law; but I have read an occasional issue of "High Times" magazine-the one for.. whatever it is. These have featured horror stories of people that really have lost their cars, houses, boats, and money over pretty trifling violations of "THE LAW". One article featured a fellow whose confiscated car was driven around by the police and damaged badly. Another woman lost her house. More stuff that I don't remember offhand. Bad. And All this happens WITHOUT ANY CONVICTION WHATSOEVER. I don't want to start a flaming over any tangental issues. Just to say that it can be the case that bad things can happen. On the plus side, I don't think that home-brewing is seen as being nearly as outrageous as growing things. Those over-bearing penalties may not be applied. Also if SOMEONE happens to have a mil. address please be aware of DISA. And the possible penalties for using military property for personal purposes. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 09:15:54 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Lab Service I saw an ad in Summer Zymurgy for Homebrewer's Lab Service and tried to call them today, but the phone is no longer in service. Does anyone know what happened to them, or if there is a lab to which I can send a sample for analysis to determine what kind of infection has been grown in my beer? thanks, dion Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 10:06:49 PDT From: rdante at icogsci1.UCSD.EDU (Rick Dante) Subject: Comments on keg fermenting I also ferment in my kegs. Actually Dion is the one who showed it to me and got me into it. Thanks Dion! :) I have a few comments that might offer more encouragement because some of Dion's methods might not be too encouraging for some of us who don't like to fiddle with PHG (Pre-Hewn-Gadgets :) ) "A non-obvious trick is to use liquid dip tubes (these are the tubes attached to the liquid "out" valves - the ones the beer actually flows through when leaving the keg) which are shorter than standard length so that when you rack, the trub is left behind. The length to cut off will vary depending on how deep a sediment layer you usually get. I use 1.75" shorter than normal for the tube in a primary fermenter and .75" shorter for the tube used in a secondary fermenter. " I never sacrificed a single liquid dip tube. My reasoning is that the yeast will form a nice cake and the beer will make a channel leaving the main cake alone. It seems reasonable enough to work for me. First I hook up a faucet to drain the first bit of yeast when I transer. Then I hook up the jumper hose between kegs. I sit ready at the end and try to slow the flow down by careful control of the pressure differential between the kegs. When the beer is all gone from the primary the yeast will start to flow. I pull the liquid disconnect off of the seconday keg (it probably doesn't matter which disconnect you pull). Just don't let the yeast transfer and don't worry if a little does. Just try harder next time. I think Dion's shortening of the dip tubes is a good idea. I also think that slotting a dip tube at the bottom and putting a brass cap (an inch long or so) is a good idea to create a "hard" channel (this was suggested some time back in HBD). But if making these modifications would hold you back from keg fermentation then just ignore them and use my method which is to not modify the dip tube. My methods make good beer as Dion would probably confirm. So pick yer method out of the three that have been presented and put those kegs into fermentation duty! "I use a blowoff tube on the primary fermenter which goes down into a bucket with about 3" of sanitizer solution. It is attached to the gas in valve body which has been modified by removing the inside poppet valve. The poppet valve is the little round thing in the center of the valve body. When you remove the valve body from the keg and look inside, yoy see a triangle with a rivet through it and a spring. This is the bottom of the poppet. To remove the poppet from the valve body, remove the valve body from the keg, place it threaded end down on the floor and use a pin punch to push gently down on the poppet. It will drop down and out.Just get some vinyl hose to fit snugly over the valve body. If you cannot get a tight fit, use a hose clamp, but I have never needed one. The size tubing I use is 5/8", but your size may vary due to the diameter of the valve body (I have pinlock kegs). " I remove my gas disconnect and the gas dip tube altogether. The 5/8" hose fits nicely around my threads which I then use a hose clamp to keep tight. It seems like some ball lock kegs have different sized threads (I have ball lock kegs) but the 5/8" hose fits all the kegs I've tried. I like my method because it's easier (just pull all the gas plumbing out and clamp the gas hose to the threaded nipple), has a bigger blowoff diameter, and the gas plumbing stays clean so that when I want to rack, I just plop it all in boiling water then remove the hose and put it back together. Two methods, both work, take yer pick. "Replace the poppetless primary gas valve with a valve body with a valve in it and pressure the primary to 10psi. Purge the secondary with CO2 and seal it up and pressurize to 10psi. Weigh the primary on a scale and take it off. Put the secondary on the scale and leave it there so you will know when the transfer is almost complete. " I don't use a scale. I roll with the punches. I'm a renegade. Actually the scale idea is a good one. I have a digital scale that take 10 seconds to sample and display. Thus this technique is out of my grasp until I get a new scale. Actually, I've tried to guestimate the beer volume by letting the receiving keg pressurize. An empty keg filled half way has twice as much pressure as when empty. Etc, etc. Actually I like Dion's method a WHOLE lot better. But since I don't have an appropriate scale I just sort of lift up the kegs gently (don't want to disturb the beasties) to gauge the beer levels. Like I said, I'm a renegade. Thanks Dion for the treatise. Thanks for getting me into keg fermenting oh so many months ago. It keeps my eyes off my beer and the light outta my beer! I still watch that stupid blowoff hose and container as the fermentation is pumping away. Fermentation amazes me. I can't help but watch every time. My girlfriend laughs at me. At least the yeasties work in full darkness now. Rick Dante rdante at icogsci1.ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 13:14:02 -0400 From: "Anton Verhulst" <verhulst at zk3.dec.com> Subject: mash #29 My 29th all grain effort was remarkable (to me :-) for 3 reasons. It was my first wheat beer, my first decoction mash, and my first set mash. I've just racked it into secondary and the first taste tests are very encouraging. Here's what I learned about making wheat beer. The grain bill called for 70 % wheat and 30% pale malt. I tried several settings on my adjustable Maltmill but found that the setting for the best wheat crush was the same as the setting for the best barley crush (don't ya just hate it when Jack is right :-). Wheat is harder and crushing it requires more arm or horse power, as the case may be. Having a home brew near by to replace fluids lost due to the sweat generated by cranking the mill is recommended :-). When you add barley to the mash water it tends to float and you have to stir it to get it to mix with the water. Not so with wheat. As soon as the wheat hits the mash water it dives to the bottom of the tun and tends to stay there. Despite all the hoopla, the decoction turned out to be no big deal at all. After a 30 minute protein rest, I scooped out about 40% of the mash. The decoction was pretty thick as I only used enough liquid to allow the decoction to be stirred easily. The decoction was brought up to 158F, stirring all the time, and held for 15 min. It was then brought to a boil and held there for 30 min. at the end the decoction was slowly added to the main mash. When finished, the whole mash was at my target temp of 148-150F for sachrification. The sparge was difficult. Wheat forms a much denser grain bed and at one point the sparge actually stuck. After a bit of trial and error, I found that the easiest way of getting the sparge going again was to put a little back pressure (by blowing?) into the outlet. This cleared the slotted copper manifold and loosened up the grain bed. Fermentation was also interesting. Wheat beer has a much denser head and so I also had my first unexpected blow off ( I use a 7 gallon plastic bucket) and had to replace the air lock several times. The batch was 10 gallons split into 2 five gallon ferments. One batch was pitched with yeast cultured from a bottle of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, and the other with a Weihanstephan #68 culture (thanks Todd G.). As expected, the beers are very different due to the phenols produced by the #68. Both are very tasty and should turn out nicely with more aging. The next wheat beer should be better still. - --Tony Verhulst Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 13:25:54 -0500 (EST) From: CLAY at prism.clemson.edu Subject: yeast Has anyone tried (and been successful) producing a pale ale at 75-80 F? Suggestions and tales of past experiences are hereby solicited. I have one carboy available, the other being full of my eternally-fermenting mead, so would ideally like a quick-and-dirty one-container recipe (extract only) with a yeast that won't go off on a phenol tangent. Otherwise I may have to break down and buy an old 'fridge, a difficult proposition to get past the Financial Management Department (see also She Who Must Be Obeyed...) thanks. C. C. Lay Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 10:35:46 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing Yet another installment of The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing By Richard B. Webb, the Brews Brother's 1993 Homebrewer of the year part 6 3. Water What we call water is actually a rather complicated molecule formed from hydrogen and oxygen atoms. The structure of this molecule gives it some rather unique and interesting chemical properties. For our purposes, the most interesting of these properties is the way that water acts as a universal solvent for stripping bits off of bigger chunks and suspending the bits in solution. This type of reaction happens at several stages in the brewing process, and it is useful to understand how to make this happen to your advantage. 3.1. Salts Before you get the water from your tap, the most common form of substance suspended in your water are various types of salts. A salt is also a molecule containing various elements or compounds, held together by a weak electric bond. In water, this bond is broken, allowing the salt to be dissolved and the component elements or molecules to be held in solution. The most well known salt, which is so famous that we just call it 'salt', is a compound called Sodium Chloride. It is easily dissolved in water, separating into it's constituent elements of Na (sodium) and Cl (chlorine). Other types of salts use chemical compounds to make up one or another of these pieces. Calcium Carbonate, which is popularly known as Chalk, uses a molecule with three oxygen atoms and a carbon atom to form a Carbonate group, which binds to a Calcium atom to form the salt. The salt known as Gypsum (or in some British brewing books as plaster of Paris) also contains one atom of Calcium, but instead of a Carbonate, it binds with a molecule formed from four atoms of oxygen and one of Sulphur, called a Sulfate. The last salt we brewers must be concerned with is known as an Epsom salt. It uses the same Sulfate group as Gypsum, but it joins with a Magnesium atom instead of a Sulphur atom. Water chemistry is as simple as that. You don't even have to know the names of the different components of the salts. But you do need to do a little bookkeeping if you wish to keep track of the amounts of the various salt constituents in your brew. This is what you need to know: Adding one teaspoon of table salt to a 5 gallon batch gives 110 ppm Sodium. Adding one teaspoon of table salt to a 5 gallon batch gives 170 ppm Chlorine. Adding one teaspoon of Gypsum to a 5 gallon batch gives 142 ppm Sulfate. Adding one teaspoon of Epsom Salt to a 5 gallon batch gives 70 ppm Sulfate. Adding one teaspoon of Chalk to a 5 gallon batch gives 57 ppm Carbonate. Adding one teaspoon of Gypsum to a 5 gallon batch gives 59 ppm Calcium. Adding one teaspoon of Chalk to a 5 gallon batch gives 39 ppm Calcium. Adding one teaspoon of Epsom Salt to a 5 gallon batch gives 18 ppm Magnesium. The abbreviation "ppm" stands for parts per million. It is a measure of how much of particulate matter is suspended in solution, whether it is salt in water or smog in air. It is often the desire of the brewer to match the mineral content of the world's great brewing centers in order to better match the world's great beers. This is because the source of water for say, Munich is unique, due to the various rock and salt formations that the ground water must flow through before it is used for brewing. It is also important to know the maximum allowable amount of these various salt components. There are other sources to tell you the mineral content of Munich, or Burton-on-Trent, or wherever, and how many ppm of various salts are required to match the classic pale ale, but here is my bit of advice for you that I picked up: Do not exceed 200 ppm of Carbonate. Do not exceed 150 ppm of Sulfate. Now all you have to do is keep track of how many ppm of the various salt constituents to match the beer style you are trying to achieve. But there is another method for getting the minerals to match the style. Learning as I go, Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 07:24:53 From: brew.hawaii at hol.com Subject: BJCP PREP QUESTIONS Aloha! Here in Hawaii, we have loads of homebrewers, but no beer judges. We're doing an ed course to prepare for the BJCP test and would like a copy of the 200-or so questions that are floating around. Much appreciated if you've got a set. Mahalo. Hawaiian Homebrewers Association. Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Aug 94 18:10:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Keg Fermenting Just four words of advice to those contemplating fermenting in Cornelius Kegs: "beware of clogged blowoff." By using a poppetless valvebody as Dion suggests, you are hoping that the small hole (about 1/4" or so) in the top of the valve body will not clog with hop bits. This can be a very messy (and even dangerous -- if you don't have a overpressure relief valve in the lid as some older kegs don't) proposition. Based on my own experience with clogged blowoff tubes on glass fermenters it can happen quite easily and is virtually guaranteed if you try to ferment fruit. A possible (untried) solution would be to mount a large valve in the lid of the keg and put a blowoff tube on that. When you want to transfer the beer, you can close the valve and use the unmodified connectors to push the beer out. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 14:17:49 EDT From: Dan deRegnier <YC06 at MUSIC.FERRIS.EDU> Subject: Kegs from friend Hello all-- I recently received 3 corny kegs from a friend. On top of that he also gave me a 20 lb CO2 tank. Free! Man, do I know how to pick 'em. He didn't use them for beer. He used his for, get this...dispensing soda pop. Oh well. He didn't give me a regulator or tubing (the nerve of him!) Anyway, I need to get a regulator. Any suggestions? I read that I can still prime with dextrose or malt. Is this better, orshould I force carbonate. Is there a difference in the taste? One lastquestion, I don't have a frig with a tap through the door, although I dohave a frig I can use to store a keg. Would it be worth while to store the keg in the frig and remove it when I want to have a beer? I am assuming the CO2 tank remains outside. Thanks. ********************************* Daniel P. deRegnier, MS, MT(ASCP) Ferris State University Big Rapids, MI 49307 yc06 at music.ferris.edu ********************************* Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 13:29:25 -0600 (CST) From: "Ginger Wotring, Pharm/Phys" <WOTRING at SLUVCA.SLU.EDU> Subject: Happy Holidays Homebrew Comp Date sent: 15-AUG-1994 The St Louis Brews are pleased to announce the return of our Happy Holidays Homebrew Competition! This is an AHA sanctioned event, using the standards and categories provided by the AHA, with the exception of one special beer style, Christmas Brau. This is a winter warmer/kitchen sink type beer. Entries are due by 5pm 29 Nov. Judging will be held on the afternoon 10 December, with a banquet and award ceremony following. We welcome all entries, and urge everyone interested to come judge with us! Please pass this information along to other brewers who may be interested. For additional information, contact me at wotring at sluvca.slu.edu, or 314/773-7867. - -- Ginger Wotring, HHHC coordinator internet: wotring at sluvca.slu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 13:46:44 EST From: mdemers at ccmailpc.ctron.com Subject: boiling grains?? Fellow HBDers, Yesterday, a brew buddy and I made up a batch of Octoberfest brew. The recipe (extract) came from _Homebrew_Favorites_ by Lutzen and Stevens (the spiced beer section). Anyway, the recipe calls for 0.5 pounds of crystal malt and specifically says to leave these grains in the kettle for the entire boil!!?? I usually take the grains out of the kettle before the boil begins for fear of extracting tannins from the grain husks. This is the only recipe I have ever seen that called for this. So, what's up with this recipe? Has anyone else done this and with what results? Why would you want to leave the grains in for the boil? Is this an Octoberfest thing or what? Am I needlessly worrying or overanalyzing here? confused, md P.S. We decided not to boil the grains. (too worried) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 15:05:57 EDT From: Erik Mitchell <T400453 at UNIVSCVM.CSD.SCAROLINA.EDU> Subject: Going to Germany, looking for things to do I have a friend who is going to Ramstein air force base in Germany (Somewhere near the french border). He is going to have several days to travel around Germany and is interested in gettting a good exposure to German Beer. Also, I would appreciate anyone reccomending goot beers for him to bring back from Germany. I will be glad to post a summary of the posts if interst warrants. Thanks in advance Erik Mitchell <T400453 at univscvm.scarolina.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 12:58:15 -0400 From: creiber at attmail.com (Chad Reiber) Subject: bad sanitizing ??? Like most of us, I sanitize my potential beer bottles in a water and bleach solution overnight, then rinse with my handy bottlewasher in the next day. After a few minutes of drip drying, I begin to fill and cap. This time I followed my usual procedure only to find a white powdery substance on the bottles after they dried. What can this be ?, a bleach reaction to the water ?. I rinsed a few more times and finally bottled my beer. The final brew result was just not up to snuff. It tasted fine out of secondary, I can only guess that the bottling caused some sort of off flavor. Private E-mail okay. Thanks, Chad ... Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Aug 94 15:15:00 EST From: "CANNON_TOM" <CANNON_TOM at hq.navsea.navy.mil> Subject: Trip from DC to Stoudts Brewery Message Creation Date was at 15-AUG-1994 15:15:00 Anyone from outside the Washington DC metropolitan area please ignore this post. I apologize in advance for posting a regional piece of information. The BANOVA homebrew club has organized a bus trip to the Stoudts Brewery Bavarian Beer Festival this Saturday, August 20. We will depart the area at 11:00 AM and return about 10:00 PM. If anybody is interested, please contact me at the above address. At this time (3:20, 8/15) there is plenty of room. If anyone is displeased at this regional only posting, please feel free to flame me privately to preserve bandwith that I am unfortuantely wasting. I now return you to your regularly scheduled program. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 15:54:56 EDT From: ALKinchen at aol.com Subject: Pilsner Urquell date code Does anybody know how to read the Pilsner Urquell four character date code. Apparently, the last digit is year. Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Aug 1994 11:50:49 -0800 From: "Harrington, Stephen J" <sharrington at msmail4.hac.com> Subject: Various items I have been asking some questions lately and received quite a few private emails so I thought I would summarize: Reusing yeast from Homebrew bottles - ----------------------------------- Most everyone said it was doable. Most people said they had good results, although this was not universal. Since there isn't much yeast in the bottom you have to step it up. Doing it from bottles made from fresh yeast packages is better (less chance of wild yeast strains). Others indicated that it is just a much work as saving the yeast from a previous batch's fermentor (some use primary, others use secondary), but you get a ton of yeast from the fermentor and it is fresher. I even got some information on a thing called a BrewCap (the last thing I need is more brewing gagdets 8*). I guess I will try all of these methods and decide for myself which is easiest. All-grain in a 5 gallon ss pot - ------------------------------ I asked about a technique for modifying recipes by increasing the grain bill to get the necessary fermentables in a wort volume which would fit in my 5 gallon stainless steel pot. Unfortunately I got no answers to this question. People suggested I buy a enamel on steel pot (~$40), or split the wort into two smaller pots. Another suggested I buy an Aluminum pot (~$55). I was actually hoping to do the all-grain without buying any additional equipment. I appreciate everone's input though. Unless someone out there HBDland can answer the original question, I might have to bite the bullet and get the bigger pot (which requires an outdoor burner and a wort chiller and ....AARRGGHH....Partial mashes are sounding better and better). Mystery Marzen - -------------- I made a Marzen which had an unreasonably high Original Gravity. My mistake was not calibrating the reading from the 4 gallons of wort I had to the 5 gallons for which the value I was shooting for was meant to describe. 1.078 * 4/5 = 1.0624 -- Much more reasonable Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond to my questions. I find the HBD an invaluable source which enhances and improves my brewing. Stephen Harrington Manhattan Beach, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 16:31:09 -0500 From: lovelace at pop.nih.gov (Chris Lovelace) Subject: Tumbleweed I'm headed down to visit my parents in Winston-Salem, NC later this week and I'm thinking about a side trip to Boone to check out the Tumbleweed brewpub. Does anyone know where in Boone it is located? Does anyone know if its possible to get a tour of their brewing facilities? I'm also going to check out The Mill and Dilworth in Charlotte, Greenshields in Raleigh, and the Stroh's brewery in Winston (hey, don't laugh--there's something to be learned at every brewery...if you look hard enough :-) TIA, Chris _________________________________________________________________ Chris Lovelace LOVELACE at POP.NIH.GOV National Institute of Mental Health, Laboratory of Psychology and Psychopathology Bethesda, Md U.S.A. _________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 15:37:02 -0500 (CDT) From: Rich Larsen <rlarsen at squeaky.free.org> Subject: Water Heater Elements Has anyone tried/used/succeded in using a water heater element inside a keg to create an electric mash/sparge tun. I know it should work for a hot liquor tank for heating sparge water, but I was wondering if y'all thought it would scortch the hey-zoose out of the mash. => Rich Larsen (New sig under construction) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 13:38:39 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: Modified guide For all of you who have A) already received the guide, or B) have written to complain about the line width, here is some welcome news. I have recompiled the text version of the document to eliminate the (and I agree that they are) anoying lines of different length. Which is to say that all of the line lengths are now 90-100 characters long. Totally inappropriate for the HBD, as it limits the lines to 80 characters long. If you wish to get a complete copy, with all of the lines of the same length, give me a buzz. If you can take such a copy and send it back to me with all of the lines being less than 80 characters long, all the better. I wouldn't have to continue submitting the funkified line lengths. When I originally wrote this thing (sometime last summer), it was the summation of most everything that I cared about knowing in brewing. My philosophy hasn't changed, but my knowledge has. For instance, Algis Korzonas was completely right in pointing out that the stuff removed from a decoction mash is indeed the thick part, as it is the grains that are boiled. Last summer, I was removing liquid and boiling that up. It's still a technique, but it's not real appropriate to call that a decoction mash. (However, it will heat up the mash when the hot liquid is returned to the mash. But the enzymes will have been destroyed...) In any case, I wrote it for my own ammusement, way before I ever discovered the HBD. I thought that it might be entertaining/illuminating/educational for me to publish it on the HBD, and see what brewers of experience much and little thought of it. By this, I mean to expand the knowledge of others (if what I've written can be of use), and also myself, when the enevitable corrections begin to stream in. I agree that the format of what makes it into the HBD stinks. If you could only see it in it's original Interleaf WP format. There it is a thing of beauty... Of course the content is still the same. I guess that what I'm after is for you (the gentle and gentile reader) to try to look past the format, and concentrate on the content. Published, chagrined, and re-formatted, Rich Webb Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1503, 08/17/94