HOMEBREW Digest #1519 Tue 06 September 1994

Digest #1518 Digest #1520

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Re: Hop Utilisation (Aidan "Krazy Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen)
  st. pats (Gregg Tennefoss)
  Stuff on www (MELOTH MICHAEL S)
  Any other Brew sources around? (PAULDORE)
  Bottle carbonation woes (Lee Bollard)
  Copper manifolds (Lee Bollard)
  Re: Wort Chiller Construction, Terry Terfinko (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Insulated Brewpots. (Erik Speckman)
  2-bucket sparging/2-day brewing/wheat re-req (David Draper)
  Cookers / Flaming / Hops / Garbage (COYOTE)

****************************************************************** ** NOTE: There will be no digest administration from August 15 ** through August 26. PLEASE be patient when requesting changes ** or cancellations. ****************************************************************** Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 5 Sep 94 17:28:25 EST From: Aidan "Krazy Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen <aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au> Subject: Re: Hop Utilisation Full-Name: Aidan "Krazy Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) wrote: | Anything longer than about 15 or 20 minutes and most of the hop | flavor will boil off. Hmmmm ... one solitary "data point" with no backup, vaguely heresay references and no background in scientific reasoning: The fella at the brew-pub had a bitter that had just ONE addition of very fresh EKG hop plugs at the beginning of a one hour boil and it had plenty of hop flavour (from memory it was 1kg of EKG in a 500 litre batch). Go figure. Aidan - -- Aidan Heerdegen e-mail: aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 1994 09:30:47 -0400 (EDT) From: greggt at infi.net (Gregg Tennefoss) Subject: st. pats I realy can't believe that I'm making myself flamebait again but ... It's very interesting that we can sit back and click our keys and flame and rant and rave about a product or company and then get upset when they defend themselves. I DO NOT think the digest is the place for blatent advertising. But, I do believe that a company has the right to defend itself. It is in our own interest to hear both side so that we may make informed decisions. For the record Lynne did not write the "offending" post, her husband did. I also know that Lynne has been highly resistent to responding via the net. The post also did not read much like an advertisement but a statement of some facts and some defense. I just got a brain storm (maybee just a drizzle) why don't why just stop all product and company endorsements all together by anyone. How do we know for sure that the authers are not covert agent of the company poseing as a mere homebrewer just to lure us into their traps. In fact, how do we know for sure that the complaints are not some sort of conspiracy by the competition. (Please note heavy sarcasm here) Just my 2 bottle caps worth. "LET THE FLAMES BEGIN" Disclaimer: I hereby swear that I have no connection what so ever with St Pats (although Lynne does sound cute!! { oh no here come the sexist remark flames}) or any other beer related product etc ....... Hell, I'll even admit to drinking a Bud and liking it. cheers Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 1994 09:23:59 -0600 (MDT) From: MELOTH MICHAEL S <meloth at spot.Colorado.EDU> Subject: Stuff on www I'm not the most competent internet user in the world so I would like help with the recent addresses posted on the digest about accessing beer related information. Speficically, I know how to ftp, but what does http://...... mean and how do I access it? * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Michael S. Meloth Phone: 303-492-5204 University of Colorado FAX: 303-492-7090 Campus Box 249 Internet: meloth at spot.colorado.edu Boulder, CO 80309 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 1994 13:26:39 -0400 (EDT) From: PAULDORE at delphi.com Subject: Any other Brew sources around? Hi all, I was wonder if there are any other Homebrew online resources around the world besides this HBD and rec.crafts.brewing? I have called a few BBS's in the USA and they are pretty lame. Any one know of any other FTP's besides - sierra.stanford.edu. I'm looking for recipes, brew techniques, other usefull homebrew information. Pauldore at delphi.com PS. Post your reply on HBD for others to take advantage of. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 94 10:54:27 PDT From: Lee Bollard <bollard at spk.hp.com> Subject: Bottle carbonation woes I didn't think this would ever happen to ME. Yes I found an exploded bottle in one of the cases I bottled 2.5 weeks ago. This batch yielded only 4 gallons, but I forgot to adjust the corn sugar and used 3/4 cup anyway. I also forgot to stir after siphoning it into the brew. The gentle swirly of the siphoning is all the primed mixture got before being bottled. Are these fopas enough to cause bottles to explode? The bottle was a heavy-duty long-neck returnable Bud 12oz bottle BTW. Not a wimply bottle by any means. Perhaps it was weak/damaged? My brew tasted great at bottling, but at two weeks the bubbles tasted really big and overcarbonated. Assuming this doesn't improve with time, what should I do? Note: I have acquired some corny kegs. Dare I open all the bottles and empty them into a keg? Thanks for the advice! Regards, Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 94 10:56:20 PDT From: Lee Bollard <bollard at spk.hp.com> Subject: Copper manifolds I'm looking for a good manifold system for my 10 gal Gott cooler. I can't find the proper parts. 1. Bulkhead fitting. All I can find is a bulkhead fitting that has 3/8 compression fittings on each end. This may work. 2. Valves. I can't find any "spigot" valves like the EasyMasher uses (see advertisement in BT for picture) All I find are inline-type valves. Okay, but less than ideal. 2. 3/8" copper tubing. No T's or L's are available for this size pipe (except compression T's which are huge). 3. If I could find a 3/8 x 1/2 x 1/2 compression "T" I could use 1/2" copper pipe for the manifold (in a circle configuration), and use the 3/8 bulkhead fitting. But does such a "T" exist? 4. Are there any mail-order catalogs the list brass and copper parts? This would make this job infinitely easier! 5. I'm open to ANY ideas that will make building this manifold easier. I'm trying to avoid just using a rubber stopper to attach the manifold, as it doesn't seem too secure. Thanks in advance, Regards, Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 94 11:34:11 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: Wort Chiller Construction, Terry Terfinko >>>>> "Guenther" == Guenther H Trageser <73672.613 at compuserve.com> writes: Guenther> There is a very simple trick to preventing kinks while Guenther> bending metal tubes. Fill them tightly with dry sand. You Guenther> may only need to do this with your inner tube, but for a Guenther> perfect bend you should try and fill both tubes. its bound Guenther> to work a treat. This is a good suggestion, but a better one is to use salt. If you have ever tried to remove tightly packed sand from inside a tube, you know it can sometimes be close to impossible. With salt, you can just dissolve it out with water. dion Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 1994 12:54:46 -0800 From: especkma at reed.edu (Erik Speckman) Subject: Insulated Brewpots. I am gradually working my way up to all grain brewing. The biggest impement is keeping 6-7 gallons of wort boiling on my electric stove. I haven't actually tried it yet, I don't want to spend money on a pot until I am sure I can do it, but I really have my doubts. So today I was wistfully thinking about my first all-grain batch and it occured to me that I could probably pull of a full boil if I had some way of insulating the sides of the pot. Has anyone done this? I was thinking of making some sort of blanket to wrap arround the kettel but I am not sure of suitable materials. It would need to be cleanable and it shouldn't be something that sheds fibres into the wort. What ever it is, it has to be cheap, say under $20. I would appreciate any suggestions. ______________________________________________________________________ Erik A. Speckman Seattle, Washington Good Brain Doesn't Suck especkma at reed.edu especkma at halcyon.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 1994 08:27:04 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <David.Draper at mq.edu.au> Subject: 2-bucket sparging/2-day brewing/wheat re-req Dear Friends, now that my mashing routine is getting relatively well- established, I have come up with a couple of questions that I am hoping some of you can help me with. 1. I use one of the drilled-bucket-in-a-bucket sparging setups. I have had good advice from several highly knowledgeable net.brewers to underlet the inner, drilled bucket with hot water to a) give a continuous liquid path from the base of the grain bed to the spigot, and b) to avoid oxidation, which could result if the wort simply fell to the bottom of the outer bucket. It strikes me that the net effect here is to add a bunch of water (6 litres in my case) to the sparged wort. Seems this would greatly reduce the apparent efficiency, since the actual extracted wort is diluted by that volume. For my current partial-mash, partial-boil-volume (17L brewpot) procedure, that 6 L is a substantial portion of my boil volume. Does it all come out in the wash, that is, would I estimate the same extraction if I could avoid the dilution (e.g. through use of a slotted manifold in a cooler, eezymasher, etc)? Something tells me this must be the case, because my extraction rates have steadily improved as I have got my mashing legs about me, from the 23's (pts/lb/gal) at first to tonight's just over 30, and it doesn't seem reasonable that my extraction could be nearly 25% better than what I am measuring. I am sure someone has thought all this out, and I'd like to hear from you if you have. 2. Owing to the wildly different schedules kept by my wife (long hours, home late most nights) and myself (easy life of the egghead academic, work when you want to), and the addition of mashing & sparging to my brewing procedures, many recent batches have been made on two successive days: mash and sparge on the first, leaving the wort till the next evening to boil, cool, and pitch. I figure anything growing in the sweet wort overnight will get nuked by the boil, and so far there have been no problems. Last time I did this, I noticed great huge globs of stuff (a technical term) that look like break material in the wort when I fired it up the next day. Presumably these were protein masses of some kind that formed as the wort slowly cooled from sparge temps to ambient. I did nothing to separate this stuff from the wort, thinking it might still be required for reactions that take place only during the boil. Did I guess right? Or should I rack the wort off any such stuff in future 2- day brews? What *is* that stuff anyway? Not to sound petulant, but I got just one response to my request for tasting notes on American-style (i.e. non-phenolic) wheat beers (Thanks Jim Larsen). I know there are PNW brewers out there who have this info at hand--so I'll reiterate my request one more time and then shut up about it. Thanks to all, Cheers, Dave in Sydney - -- "Life's a bitch, but at least there's homebrew" ---Norm Pyle ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper at mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428 ....I'm not from here, I just live here.... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 1994 00:53:03 -0600 (MDT) From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu> Subject: Cookers / Flaming / Hops / Garbage Guy McConnell had a summary of his search for a ..... Cooker for 15 gal keg. I'd like to chime in that the Camp Chef/ Cache Cooker (aka Coyote Cooker :) can do the trick. It's got a sturdy cast iron frame that holds plenty. The frame seems sturdier to me than the King Cookers and Cajun Cookers I've seen in stores. The stoves handle dutch ovens fine. They do make low and high pressure units. One, two, even three burners Short, of with extension legs. Even folding legs are available. I don't make any money from them, in fact I gave them $68 for the two burner unit I frequently brew 15+ gallons on (like my amber ale I made today!) *** Al's Flaming Flasks question. Air goes in as the agar comes out. Yeah, it does. I submit. Test tubes can be effectively flamed to push air out. Flasks benefit by flaming the lip to remove surface contaminants so they don't get into the plated. The real key is to work quickly, yet smoothly, and as I said before, keep the flask tilted so a drop doesn't run up and down the side drawing surface contaminants with it. Reflame the lip every 5 plates or so, just for the 'noid-ness of it all! *** richard childers: Spoke about drying hops. He suggested > a light bulb to heat a dryer frame unit * I'd have to disagree. A light bulb may be fine for a yogurt or yeast incubator, but the three things which will screw up hops are 1. Oxygen, i.e., oxidation 2. Light. 3. Heat I'd suggest a different source of heat than a light bulb, if any at all. Personally, I find in my dry western climate ... ("Utah may be a desert, but it's not dry!" Upcoming microbrewfest moto!) ... that two days on a window-screen/frame leaves them nicely dried, but not crisp. Personally I'd chose to favor the not too dry over crisp and crumbly. I'd guess that heated dehydrators could quickly overdo hops. I have a homemade fruit dryer that can fully enclose the shelves, but a friend has it borrowed, I just have two of the shelves. They work fine. BUT: I keep them in the garage, so they are out of direct bright light. >>I would think that if you boiled them up green you'd get chlorophyll- -flavored beer, rather than hops-flavored beer. >The whole idea of "curing" is to get the chlorophyll to slowly break down into less detectable components ( I surmise ) and to extract the water, also, of course, so as to inhibit infections. ( I would think that going into some detail on excatly what "curing" is might be good, in the Hops FAQ, if it does not already do so. ) * I believe the "whole idea" is to reduce the water content so that the hops can be frozen without turning to mush. I'd questioned whether there was any NEED for drying before use, and haven't received any true reasons. I don't think that drying is going to break down chloropyl. The cones remain green after drying (unless they get too much light!- when they turn brown) indicating that they still contain chlorophyl. So- to test such a theory impirically, I chose to USE some freshly picked Williamette hops (cones as big as my thumb- my GREEN thumb that is!) as finishing hops in todays brewing effort. Added a carefully measured out... handful at the end of the boil. Well, they smelled good before they went in, and well....the smelled even better after they went in. It'll be a couple weeks until I can properly complete the experiment and report my results. But I didn't detect any "green" aromas that I don't normally detect with the use of finishing hops. FWIW: THe pulley system (if you've caught my previous descriptions) are working well. They've been up and down a few times now. The Nugget challenged the top of the pole, so before it could tangle I dropped it down a bit, and tied it out on a guy wire to keep it from the top. * Jack S.- You once attempted to design a home test of alpha acids for home-hop-growers. Did such an effort ever pan out? Does anyone know of an economical method for the homegrower to guestimate alpha content of homegrown hops without the expense of lab equipment or standars...etc? *** As for OAQwhathisbuckets, and other consistent bouncers- I say- Scrap the Bastards- if they are repeat offenders. I semi jokingly slammed the garbage in the digest once before. For my efforts to keep the digest clean I received a very rude and insulting e-mail from Mr. OAQKwacker "explaining" that it wasn't his fault his mailer burped so. He so wanted to be sure I got the message, that he sent me two copies of it. There are other sources for receiving the digest than direct mail. Sierra and others have them archived. NEWS also has RCB with the HBD. If this is to be a recurring problem, and the recipient is unable to fix it at his/her end, then I vote (no democracy here!) to dump the busters for ALL of our benefits. Such digests filled with regurgitated error messages are a nuisance, and a waste of all of our time. Receiving the digest direct is a privelage, which should be justly earned. Granted- give them warning, but if three's a charm, then DUMP the buggers! Just my 2c. 0 |\ |\| \/| \-\-\- John (The Coyote) Wyllie SLK6P at cc.usu.edu -/-/-/ \ | --- Smithfield Utah, it definitely ain't dry! ---- Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1519, 09/06/94