HOMEBREW Digest #1537 Tue 27 September 1994

Digest #1536 Digest #1538

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Demerara & turbinado...one last time (Matthew Sendbuehler)
  trub-free fermentation (Jeff Stampes)
  Cold Break (guyruth)
  Force carbonation (Pat Anderson)
  Yeast questions (mkropp)
  Pumpkin Ale recipe (MR_SPOCK)
  Plastic fermentation bucket and heat (EricT10)
  Lost Brewbud\Lactic Acid (GubGuy)
  Sam Adams Triple Bock, What to mash in? (In a bee hive I'm a sent you)
  Another Very Satisfied Customer (Gary Bell)
  starters/non-flocculent mutants/IBU calculations (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Vinegar (Ectoplasm)
  Mega blowoff! (Ectoplasm)
  pumpkin, plastic, mead, DC, wheat (uswlsrap)
  Brewing Climate in C Springs? (Bill Kitch)
  Hops - AA determination (BrewerBob)
  continued (accidentally hit the send key prematurely) (uswlsrap)
  Cross-Country beerfest (Yeebot)
  CO2 empty already? (Lee Bollard)
  Top Ten List=noise ("Daniel F McConnell")
  More kegging questions... (Lee Bollard)
  Thermometer Alert! (Frank Longmore)
  Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1535 (September 24, 1994) (Barkin)
  Re: Odd & Ends (Automagical Mail Responder)
  Re: homegrown hop update (Jim Ancona)
  Beer Chiller ? ("Terence McGravey {91942}")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 10:51:38 +0059 (EDT) From: Matthew Sendbuehler <sendbu at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> Subject: Demerara & turbinado...one last time Spurred on by some e-mail suggesting that these two words really mean the same thing, I did a *little* bit of research, and came up with the following: 'Demerara' is indeed a coarse, yellowish/golden cane sugar from British Guiana. AKA 'Demerara Crystals.' Sources that go into detail suggest that a particular process lends it distinctiveness. (One mentions tretment with sulphuric acid.) 'Turbinado' comes up much less frequently in the sources, but appears to be a generic term for a particular grade of refined sugar. It isn't raw sugar, but is considerably less refined than the white stuff. I would conclude that Demerara may be a turbinado, but not all turbinados are Demerara. (I wonder if the root of this word is the same as that of 'turbine', which would suggest a reference to some aspect of the refining process?) The bottom line (for me, anyway): if you don't mind using cane sugar in your beer, any 'true' brown sugar would be an improvement over ultra-refined white sugar, and may even lend some character. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 94 17:00:59 MDT From: jeff at neocad.com (Jeff Stampes) Subject: trub-free fermentation A few days ago I appealed to the HBD for help in keeping trub out of my :? (Whoops) There was a brief discussion recently looking for ways to keep the trub out of your fermenter . . . there was actually a fine method descibed in a recent Zymurgy. I don't recall the exact details, but as I remember it involved building a very simple device for racking. I think it called for a copper scouring pad tied over the end of the racking cane, along with a couple of other simple modifications. Haven't tried it personally, but look at back copies of Zymurgy and give it a shot! Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 94 08:04:09 EST From: guyruth at abq-ros.com Subject: Cold Break Four batches ago I switched my mash temperature program from single-step to two-step. I start at 140F for 30 minutes and then attempt to get up to 158F for another 60 minutes, but have only been able to get to 156F. Anyway, in all of the last four batches I have not had any cold break appearing in my fermenters. I use a counterflow wort chiller. Can anyone suggest a reason for this and whether it is good or bad that I'm not getting any cold break. Thanks in advance. Guy (Albuquerque, NM) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 06:59:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Pat Anderson <pata at connected.com> Subject: Force carbonation abaucom at fester.swales.com was asking about kegging... Here is my standard info on force carbonation. Here is the sequence: 1. Sanitize the keg, purge the air with CO2, and rack the green beer over to the keg. The beer going into the keg should be CLEAR - use gelatin finings in a second carboy. 2. Determine the correct pressure for the temperature and desired carbonation level ("volumes" of CO2) from the chart. CO2 dissolves more readily at lower temps, so you might want to chill, but I carbonate at cellar temp, usually 64^ F., and that works fine. 3. Pressurize the gas line before attaching to keg - THIS IS IMPORTANT!! It keeps the beer from flowing backwards into your gas line. 4. Agitate the keg for 5 - 10 minutes. A good way to do this is to sit in a chair, and put the keg across your lap with the gas side UP. Alternately raise each knee while listening to the long version of _American_Pie_. 5. Put the keg in the fridge to cool and settle to let the foam subside. 6. If you have any patience, leave the beer in the fridge for a week before drinking - but you don't have to... 7. A pressure gauge/bleeder valve, used in conjunction with the chart, is very handy to monitor and adjust keg pressure to maintain correct carbonation level... (Chart from Anton Verhulst, I don't know who originated it, but thanks!) Volumes of CO2 desired Temp 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 3.0 32F 3.5 4.4 5.4 6.3 7.3 8.2 9.2 10.1 11.0 12.0 12.9 34F 4.3 5.3 6.3 7.3 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.2 12.1 13.1 14.1 36F 5.1 6.2 7.2 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.2 12.3 13.3 14.3 15.3 38F 6.0 7.0 8.1 9.1 10.2 11.2 12.3 13.3 14.4 15.4 16.5 40F 6.8 7.9 9.0 10.1 11.2 12.3 13.4 14.4 15.5 16.6 17.7 42F 7.7 8.8 10.0 11.1 12.2 13.3 14.4 15.5 16.7 17.8 18.9 44F 8.6 9.7 10.9 12.1 13.2 14.4 15.5 16.7 17.8 19.0 20.1 46F 9.5 10.7 11.8 13.0 14.2 15.4 16.6 17.8 19.0 20.2 21.3 48F 10.4 11.6 12.8 14.0 15.3 16.5 17.7 18.9 20.1 21.4 22.6 50F 11.3 12.5 13.8 15.0 16.3 17.6 18.8 20.1 21.3 22.6 23.8 52F 12.2 13.5 14.8 16.1 17.3 18.6 19.9 21.2 22.5 23.8 25.1 54F 13.1 14.4 15.7 17.1 18.4 19.7 21.1 22.4 23.7 25.0 26.3 56F 14.0 15.4 16.7 18.1 19.5 20.8 22.2 23.6 24.9 26.3 27.6 58F 15.0 16.4 17.8 19.2 20.6 21.9 23.3 24.7 26.1 27.5 28.9 60F 15.9 17.3 18.8 20.2 21.6 23.1 24.5 25.9 27.4 28.8 30.2 62F 16.9 18.3 19.8 21.3 22.7 24.2 25.7 27.1 28.6 30.0 31.5 64F 17.8 19.3 20.8 22.3 23.8 25.3 26.8 28.3 29.8 31.3 32.8 66F 18.8 20.3 21.9 23.4 25.0 26.5 28.0 29.6 31.1 32.6 34.1 68F 19.8 21.4 22.9 24.5 26.1 27.6 29.2 30.8 32.4 33.9 35.5 70F 20.8 22.4 24.0 25.6 27.2 28.8 30.4 32.0 33.6 35.2 36.8 72F 21.8 23.4 25.1 26.7 28.4 30.0 31.6 33.3 34.9 36.5 38.2 74F 22.8 24.5 26.2 27.8 29.5 31.2 32.9 34.5 36.2 37.9 39.5 76F 23.8 25.5 27.2 29.0 30.7 32.4 34.1 35.8 37.5 39.2 40.9 78F 24.9 26.6 28.4 30.1 31.8 33.6 35.3 37.1 38.8 40.5 42.3 80F 25.9 27.7 29.5 31.2 33.0 34.8 36.6 38.3 40.1 41.9 43.7 Volumes of CO2: British style beers = 1.0 - 1.6 Most other beers = 2.4 - 2.85 High-carbonation beers = 2.85 - 2.95 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 13:37:34 -0400 (EDT) From: mkropp at BIX.com Subject: Yeast questions This has little to do with actual brewing so those who don't like worthless posts can feel free to skip to the next one. A question came up about yeasts in general. What are the basic differences between the different types of yeasts (baking, the stuff we use, and the "brewers" yeast that many use as a dietary supplemen)? Could you make bread with "brewing" yeast? Do they all have the same the same B vitamins as "brewers" yeast? Inquring minds want to know. /\/\ike Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 15:14:50 -0400 (EDT) From: MR_SPOCK at delphi.com Subject: Pumpkin Ale recipe A couple of people have posted with questions about pumpkin ale. Here is a basic how-to I posted to rec.crafts.brewing.--- RM -- Well, It took me alot of searching but I finally found a recipe for Pumpkin Ale. I got it from the October '93 issue of Ale Street News. (Good thing I save such things) Here is what the article had to say : 10lbs 2-row malt 1lb crystal malt 20oz Pumpkin 3.5 oz Herzbruker Hops water gypsum 0.5oz cascade hops a healthy yeast starter solution (Wyeast 1056) NOTE ** BE SURE THE PUMKIN YOU BUY IS PIE MAKING PUMPKIN AND ** NOT "COW or CARVING PUMPKIN!!! The jack-o-lantern and ** cow style are bitter and not that pleasent to eat. METHOD: 1. Peel the skin off and core 2lbs of pumpkin. 2. Boil in 2 gallons water for 20 min. and save water for mashing. 3. Take 20oz of pumpkin and puree in a blender. 4. Add the puree in alternating layers in your mash. 1 layer of grain - 1 layer of puree then mash water (at 162). Adjust the mash temperature to 150 degrees and hold for 1hour or until starch is converted. 5. sparge with enough water to collect your usual amount (5-6gal) 6. Boil with 1 oz Hersbruker for 80min. Add 1.5oz for 30min. Add the Cascade for 10min. Add the remaining hops at the last minute. 7. strain out hops and chill to 75degrees. 8. Pitch yeast and ferment for 3 days. 9. Rack off to secondary for 3 weeks. 10. Bottle anytime thereafter with 3/4 cup corn sugar. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Note: The above is not my recipe but when I brew this beer I will use Irish moss and my hop schedule will not have so much late addition hops. I don't want the hop flavor or aroma to overpower the pumpkin. Have fun! --------------------------------------------------------------------- RM --- Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 94 15:18:08 EDT From: EricT10 at aol.com Subject: Plastic fermentation bucket and heat I am a novice brewer and would appreciate some wisdom from those of you who know much more about brewing than I. So far every one of my first five brews have tasted fantastic to my friends and me and I enjoy the process of creating my own fine brews. I live in a rural setting and have my own well,the water from which is very hard (calcium) and contains much iron. I filter the unsoftened water through one large inline and one faucet mount carbon filters and it then tastes just fine. I boil all the water I use for the brewing process to settle out what remaining minerals I can. Recently, to speed the cooling of the wort, I have begun to boil three gallons the day before I boil my wort so that it can cool overnight. I put those three gallons into my sanitized (with Chempro SDP) 5 gallon plastic fermentation bucket and put the airlock in place to prevent overnight contamination. I worry that the boiling water temperatures could leach harmful or bad tasting chemicals from the plastic into my water. Would I be better off letting the water cool in my stainless steel brew pot? Or would that be inviting in foreign yeasts, etc? Should I use the water that goes through my water softener and is much "softer" but worse tasting? Should I just "relax and have a homebrew?" Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom. And thanks to whoever maintains this forum. Eric Thompson Galesville, WI erict10 at aol.com ethompso at uwlax.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 94 15:33:47 EDT From: GubGuy at aol.com Subject: Lost Brewbud\Lactic Acid I've lost track of an old brewing buddy of mine. Name: John Griffith. Last seen: Portland, OR. Activities: Brewing & entering brewing competitions. If anyone knows the whereabouts of John, please email. Lactic Acid: In my attempt to brew an authentic Belgian White, many sources have suggested using small amounts of Lactic Acid. Upon trying to obtain some, I ran into a bit of trouble. The local pharmacist can get it for me, but at outrageous prices. I called every pharmacy in my local calling area and probably 5 long distance before I found one that had Lactic Acid in stock. Anyone know a good source for this stuff? I can't be the only one who has had this much trouble finding it. I guess the moral is: If you need Lactic Acid for your beer, better expect to look long and hard. (There was suggestions to maybe try a chemical supply house for it; none available in my area and mail order is VERY expensive for chemicals, at least in my neck of the woods). So, just wondering if anyone else has had this experience and if so where they finally found it. TIA, GubGuy at aol.com -Ray Ownby- Ninc est Bibendum (Latin; "Now is the time to drink") Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 18:17:44 -0500 (EST) From: In a bee hive I'm a sent you <STU_GJCARRIE at VAX1.ACS.JMU.EDU> Subject: Sam Adams Triple Bock, What to mash in? Is Sam Adams outrageously expensive Triple Bock out yet? Anyone tried it? Worth the money? I know I'll buy at least one just to see, but I was interested in any opinions anyone has. Also, is there any consensus as to which is the best device for mashing? A large brewpot or modified cooler? Are there any companies that produce a good modified cooler type thing or a lautering tun? My homebrew store does not. Finally, is there any way to find out about local competitions? I have not been brewing long and am very impressed with my beer, but I am still curious as to what aspects of brewing I should be working on. Thanks for any info. Gregg *********************** We gotta get on the road ***************************** * Gregg Carrier (aka Uncle Zany, the guy in the floppy green hat) * * 332 Old S. High St. stu_gjcarrie at vax1.acs.jmu.edu * * Harrisonburg, VA 22801 (703) 434-8214 * *************************** Destiny Unbound ********************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 18:53:23 -0700 From: gbell at ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell) Subject: Another Very Satisfied Customer Jack Skeels <0004310587 at mcimail.com> wrote: >I've just had yet another great experience with certain mail-order homebrew >upplies shop, Brewer's Resource of Camarillo CA. I won't waste any >bandwidth with the details of the pleasure-causing support and assistance >that they provided, past OR present, but I do want to let y'all know that >these folks do a great job. I've tried many, and read 20+ catalogs, and >they are the best. Phone (800) 827-3983. No connection, just a very >satisfied customer. Same here! Very helpful, great catalog, and the prices are the best that I've found - often by as much as 30%. Gary Bell, Lake Elsinore, CA "Quis dolor cui dolium!" - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 22:51:01 -0400 (EDT) From: MJL at UNCVX1.OIT.UNC.EDU Subject: TRUB VI RESULTS Here are the results of the TRUB VI Open, Durham, NC. My apologies for the week delay in this posting. I was not the official organizer. Results of TRUB OPEN VI September 17, 1994 115 Entries Judged English Pale Ales 7 entries (5a,b) Brian Cronk - First Place Ed Wolf/Carol Ligouri - Second Place Tom Werdegarner - Third Place American Hoppy Beers 11 entries (6a, 23a) Tom Wedegarner - First Place Tom Wedegarner - Second Place Mark Mosley - Third Place Lighter Ales 14 entries (7a,b,c,8a,b,c,18b) Bob & Linda Heckman - First Place Bob & Linda Heckman - Second Place Bruce Pitner - Third Place Darker Ales 9 entries (4a,b,c,9a,b) Bruce Pitner - First Place Jim Carroll - Second Place Ronald Raike - Third Place Stouts 14 entries (11a,b,c) Bruce Pitner - First Place Porter Dickerman - Second Place Ed Wolf/Carol Ligouri - Third Place Strong Beers 10 entries (1a,10a,b,11d,12c,d) Mike Lelivelt - First Place Jim Carroll - Second Place Roman Davis - Third Place Ligher Lagers 8 entries (14a,b,15a,b,16a,b,c,d,e) Kevin Hardee - First Place Bob & Linda Heckman - Second Place A. J. Delange - Third Place Darker German Beers 12 entries (12a,b,13a,b,16f,17a,b,18a) A. J. Delange - First Place Mike Lelivelt - Second Place Mike Lelivelt - Third Place Belgians 9 entries (2a,b,c,d,e,f,g,3a,b,c) Kevin Hardee - First Place Ed Wolf/Carol Ligouri - Second Place Fred Hardy - Third Place Specialty 9 entries (19a,b,20a,b,21a,b,22a,b,c) Ed Westemeier - First Place Craig Pepin - Second Place Craig Pepin - Third Place Wheats 8 entries (6b, 24a,b,c,e) Mike Lelivelt - First Place Scott Bickham - Second Place Ed Wolf/Carol Ligouri - Third Place Meads 4 entries Brian Towey - First Place Keith Houck - Second Place Andy Kagan - Third Place Best of Show - Mike Lelivelt - Strong Scotch Ale Best of Show, Runner Up - Kevin Hardee - Son of Christmas Light (Cream Ale) Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Sep 94 22:14:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: starters/non-flocculent mutants/IBU calculations Bob writes: > I have another issue which is bothering me a bit. I have been using liquid > yeast now for the last 4 batches but I never get a real active fermentation. > Recently I read that I should always use a starter with liquid yeast. I > haven't done this yet. Should I be doing it and what is the best method of > doing a starter? BTW, the beer comes out great but maybe it could be better... I could not reach Bob either. This is the exact type of question that should be answered by the Yeast FAQ. I've already sent Patrick some things on this topic, so perhaps the next revision of the FAQ will answer this question better. In the meantime, the bottom line is that while you can brew a good beer with Wyeast without using a starter, you are asking for trouble. Two things that can happen when you underpitch are 1) infection and 2) high final gravities. What I do is use a 1 liter starter (1.030, unhopped wort) for 5 gallon ale batches and a 2 liter starter for 5 gallon lager or high-gravity batches. Basically, you want to make a small batch of wort, cool it, aerate it and then pitch your yeast into it. The airlock on a starter is not going to be as fast-moving as one on a 5gallon fermenter -- consider the difference in size! Also, with a 1.030 wort, you won't get the kind of kraeusen you would expect with 5gallons of 1.050 wort. Keep this starter at 70F or so till it ferments out. Yes, that's right, ferments out. Pitching at high-kraeusen as is written in many books is NOT the best time to pitch. You can then pour off the spent wort if you wish and pitch the yeast. Don't wait too many days after the yeast has fallen out of solution in the starter or they will begin to autolyse. I try to use the yeast within 3 or 4 days of the yeast falling out of solution. ******** Seth writes: >Aside from serving as a >preservative, is there any reason to add hops? There have been some that suggest that it's best to start the yeast in a media that is similar to the wort that they will be fermenting. Personally, I don't hop my starters. >Also, does it matter what kind of malt extract I use: light, medium, or >dark? I use M&F light. I think that it probably doesn't make much difference, but perhaps the acidity of the starter may go up as the extract gets darker. Still, I don't know if this matters at all. ****** Rich writes (quoting Glenn): >>I've been re-pitching yeast from the primary for the last 10 batches or so >>and have noticed that the yeast starts to lose it's ability to floculate >>after about 3 successive re-pitches. I've noticed this with 1007 and 1056 >>and was wondering if this was a mutative quality or just due to the fact >>that my initial pitching volume was larger with each batch. > >Where are you harvesting the yeast? If you are saving the sediment from >the primary, I would expect the opposite to happen, I.E. You get a high >flocculator. It is possible that the yeast has mutated, but that usually >results in off flavors as well. Not necessarily. If the wort was high in gravity, the alcohol can cause the yeast to mutate. This is the exact reason that Sierra Nevada doesn't harvest yeast from their Celebration Ale or Bigfoot Barleywine. I seem to recall that one of the problems they encountered was flocculation problems. There is some stuff on this in back issues of HBD. >>the 3rd batch generally had to be dosed with PVP to get the yeast out >>of suspension. > >PVP removes protiens that cause chill haze. Yeast can be removed with >gelatin or insinglass. PVP (aka Polyclar) removes tannins, not proteins, and will help yeast settle, but it's correct that gelatin or isinglass (watch spelling) are better suited for fining yeast out. ********** Rich writes: >Hop pellets are generally more bittering or more effcient than whole hops >by weight. > >If the above statement is true then a concern arises with IBU calulations. > >Are IBU calulations based on whole hops? If so, the additional bittering >power of pellets are not taken into account and therefore IBU calulations >made on recipes using pellets are incorrect. I believe that Ragers formulas were based upon pellets. I've tested beers at Siebel that were made based upon Rager's formulas and this is what I can say for MY setup: pellets, 5-gallon, high-gravity boil, hop bag, a 40IBU target, using Rager's formulas PLUS 10% (for the grain bag), non-blowoff, resulted in a beer measured at 41.5 IBUs. >Whatcha think? I think I would add 10% if I were using whole hops in place of pellets, but this is just an estimation -- I would do taste-tests to determine the right %. Note, that although more optimistic than Rager's formulas, Randy Mosher's formulas (specifically his Hop-Go-Round) *DO* have separate scales for pellets and whole hops. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 1994 16:04:03 +0930 (CST) From: zoz at cs.adelaide.edu.au (Ectoplasm) Subject: Vinegar Howdy HBD dudes... I have been brewing out of control for most of the year (352 L since April) and am starting to run out of storage space for beer, even considering my consumption rate. So I was thinking of maybe brewing up some spiced or fruit vinegar, to consume & give to gourmet friends etc. So does anyone know how vinegars (e.g. malt vinegar, balsamic vinegar) are produced? I assume, since wine and cider vinegars are made from grape juice and cider, that malt vinegar is made from some beer-wort-like starting point. Any ideas, collective wisdom? Beerserk, Zoz - -- zoz at cs.adelaide.edu.au http://www.cs.adelaide.edu.au/~zoz/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 1994 21:26:25 +0930 (CST) From: zoz at cs.adelaide.edu.au (Ectoplasm) Subject: Mega blowoff! Hi again HBDudes - Today I experienced my first blowoff (phwoar! eh readers?!) Both my 20L extract-based cream stout and my 44L extract-based pale ale went absolutely ballistic, shooting foam through my airlocks, out from under the lids and generally all over the place. It is my first blowoff of any sort in 14 batches. The 44L batch is in a 60L keg, so that's a fair bit of foam! The 20L fermenter was bulging like it was about to explode! (blocked airlock). So I was wondering, if I give you a bit of background, if anyone can tell me what, if anything, I have done wrong! OK, I'm gonna let you into my deep dark spine-chilling secret. I am a very naughty boy. That's right, I never boil my wort, and in fact have never done so, even for partial mashes, extra hops, whatever. I never felt the need to do so, 'cause I made beer that I liked to drink without doing so. But when I brewed last night, I was brewing such a pair of simple kit recipes that I decided I wasn't wasting enough time on my brewing without doing partial mashes etc., so I thought I'd give boiling a try to see if it made my beer appreciably better. Well, I don't have the equipment to do a full boil (much less chill it afterwards), so I dissolved the extracts etc. in 8L of water (my biggest pot) and started heating it up. I added marbles to act as boiling chips and kept stirring it as I heated it, but as I was doing so I started to think about the friend of mine who boiled his wort for the first time and ended up with toffee-flavoured beer, and then I started to get real paranoid and began smelling toffee every 5 seconds, so I lost my nerve and dumped everything into the fermenter. Some hot break had definitely formed, though. And of course it ended up in the fermenter along with everything else... (including marbles, but I fished them out with my stirrer). So, dudes, the questions: 1) Is getting the wort real hot but not boiling it a bad thing? Did it cause the massive blowoff? (must have, 2 unbelievably huge blowoffs at the same time, for the first time, is too much of a coincidence). 2) What nasty effects can I expect from dumping hot break in the fermenter? 3) What's the best way to avoid wort caramelisation? Slow heat to boil/ fast heat to boil? (For the record, I had the gas burner on full until I got the jitters). Sorry for the all-question post [again], but I've posted a couple of answers in the past so I hope my average isn't too bad ;) Beerserk [blowoff], Zoz - -- zoz at cs.adelaide.edu.au http://www.cs.adelaide.edu.au/~zoz/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 94 13:59:43 EDT From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Subject: pumpkin, plastic, mead, DC, wheat - ----------------------- Mail item text follows --------------- To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: pumpkin, plastic, mead, DC, wheat Tom Pratt asks about adding pumpkin to secondary for a "seasonal twist": - ---You'll probably get all kinds of different advice about pumpkin beers, or at least I did when I thought about making one last year. Use less hops, use more hops; use fresh, use canned; have to mash, don't have to mash; et cetera... One thing that was never suggested to me was the idea of adding it to secondary, and I'm not sure why you would want to. If you're thinking of the pumpkin as a "fruit," and are thinking of adding it to secondary because that's the way some people do fruit beers (I don't, I steep at the end of the boil), I'd advise not to. Pumpkin itself has rather little flavour. Pumpkin beers will have that "pumpkin pie" taste from the spices, not really from the pumpkin. If you want to add something to secondary, add the spices (sparingly!) and save yourself the hassle of dealing with the pumpkin. (It can be messy and you also lose a lot of volume, so brew more in anticipation of that.) The pumpkin itself will add c olour and affect the mouthfeel. Bob Paolino Disoriented in Badgerspace Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 1994 13:00:41 -0500 From: kitchwa at mail.utexas.edu (Bill Kitch) Subject: Brewing Climate in C Springs? Am moving soon to Colorado Springs. Would like some advanced info on the brewing climate there. Are the good suppliers? Is there an active club? Any mirco/brewpub in town? email please: kitchwa at mail.utexas.edu TIA, WAK Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 94 14:08:26 EDT From: BrewerBob at aol.com Subject: Hops - AA determination A hops Question - Is there an easy "at home" way to determine the AA percentage of hops? On our last morning in Yosemite (Wowona Lodge to be specific, in case anyone should be familar with it), my wife and I aquired several ounces of fresh, "ripe" hops from the vines growing up the porches of the lodge. We had seen them earlier but decided not to "steal" any, thinking the owners may be homebrewers and get upset if we took some of their hops. There were at least fifty vines. However, as we were packing the car to leave, the gardner was tearing them down and cutting them off at the roots! He said they would start turning brown soon and he just needed to get them out of the way. He told us to help ourselves, which we did. He didn't know what kind they were. My problem now is how to use them. If I knew what kind they were, it would help, but I don't. To use them for bittering would be tricky unless I have some idea of the AA. They have a great smell and they taste like they might be relatively high in AA but I really don't know, not having eaten many hops off the vine. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Email is fine if you feel the info is not of interest to the multitudes. I will, of course, name the brew after Yosemite or Wawona or both. Thank you. - BrewerBob at aol.com My "Brewpub Report" will follow in a day or two. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 94 15:13:05 EDT From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Subject: continued (accidentally hit the send key prematurely) - ----------------------- Mail item text follows --------------- To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: continued (accidentally hit the send key prematurely) Continued after premature send.... The pumpkin will provide colour and a fuller mouthfeel. I've added the pumpkin in mid-boil (finally got around to addressing the "when" question) As for hopping, I was convinced to go with _more_ hops than for a standard pale ale (not more than for an IPA, of course :-) ) because I felt the argument that you need the hops to balance the extra sweetness more compelling than the argument that you should hop lightly to let the pumpkin come through. Besides, I like hops!BTW, that pumpkin brew took a BOS even though it was young, and the spices have rounded out nicely for an even better brew since then. I wish I had more of it (the volume of my 5-gallon batch went to about 3-3.5 after racking and bottling) I don't claim expert status, this is just what worked for me, and I'd be interested in hearing more as I prepare to brew this year's pumpkin ale. "Dave in Sydney" speaks out for plastic! - --I now confess to the hbd, as I have to others face-to-face, I use plastic and make no apology. Dave stated all the advantages and refuted the criticisms quite well! The key is being careful about cleaning and storing your plastic equipment. I live in an apartment, and my water sources are the bathtub and sinks. I don't have a big basement work tub (or a basement) to fill carboys for sanitising, and I don't feel like redoing and undoing the hardware to be able to put a hose on the kitchen sink. I thought about a carboy for secondary, and even bought one, thinking that a 5 gallon one (too small for primary, but would be okay for secondary) might fit under the bathtub faucet--no, it didn't quite make it. (BTW, for the person who suggested taking a drinking water one for the $6 deposit, I wonder how those who have raised the question of keg theft-for-deposit would respond. Spare yourself the ethical dilemma and seek out a Corning outlet store, where the 5 gallon carboys are $9-10.) Sanitation and rinsing is easy, ( and if it's easy, it's more likely that you'll do it thoroughly), they're easier to handle, they're less risky, et cetera. Here's something that Dave didn't mention. It's easier to aerate your wort simply and cheaply. You don't have to try to shake a heavy carboy around and you don't have to come up with elabourate gadgetry. I boil my egg whisk (the kind of hand egg beater without the crank) to sanitise it and use it to aerate. You can't fit one of those through the neck of a carboy. I know that "serious" brewers turn up their noses at plastic, but I like the convenience (and safety), and brew only ales, so the question of extended storage isn't an issue for me. - --On a lighter note. The reference to mead (or meade?) reminds me of something I saw the other evening. I'm a member of the municipal band here in Madison, and we were reading a piece that stated it was commissioned by the Kansas Music Education Association (or was it administrators?) District I. K-MEAD must be a honey of an organisation :-). Aaron Banerjee asks if there are any brewers in the DC area: - --Before he gets flamed for making what on the surface appears to be an obvious question of fact, let me mention my experience. When I was new at all this and preparing to move from grad school in Minnesota to Madison for my new job, I posted an inquiry on rec.crafts.brewing about whether there were any homebrew clubs in Madison. I knew my phone number-to-be and included it in the post. The first week in Madison, I received a call from someone in the MHTG and was invited to attend their weekly meetings. I got involved right away with our annual microbrewery festival, and have since worked on competitions, trips, other events, and just plain enjoying beer and sharing advice on brewing. I've certainly learned a lot since asking my silly net question. And to answer the literal question, yes, there are. One is my brother, and a couple others are members of our club who have moved from Madison to DC/NoVa. If the brewers in DC are anywhere near as friendly as they are here, you'll hear from them soon! Finally, Michael Teed asks about his problems with excess phenolics in his wheat beer: - --I don't know that I have any answers, but I do have a couple questions. I've never tried diluting at bottling time, so I can't respond to that. I don't have the numbers at hand and haven't used it often enough to have it committed to memory, but is the 3068 you mention the Wyeast Bavarian Weizen culture, or one of the other ones? After having used it (of course), I've been told that the Bavarian Weizen can be rather inconsistent, and the Yeast Lab culture was recommended instead. The weizenbock I made with it (far more malt, of course, than the weizen recipe you reported--even without the dilution) was in many respects an excellent brew, but it did not have the intense phenolic character expected of the style--quite the opposite "problem" from what you report. I, too, had a room temperature fermentation, but the banana and clove character was mostly gone by the middle of secondary fermentation. I entered it in a couple competitions, and got a ribbon in one, and a fairly decent score but no award in the other. (The rest, of course, was consumed and enjoyed at club meetings and at home :-), but five bottles and a couple of entry fees is a fairly small price to pay to get some blind evaluation . ) In the latter competition, one judge commented, correctly, about the low level of phenolic character (and appropriately scored it down), yet suggested in another comment that I should get the fermentation temperature down to the 50'sF. I made it at the upper end of the temperature range, and he suggested the lower end. Am I wrong, or shouldn't I expect more of the weizen(bock) character at warmer fermentations than cooler?? What experiences have others had with weizen cultures?? Is the Wyeast (still) as inconsistent as once reported?? Also, is diluting at bottling time recommended, or should you really just brew more if you want more (equipment capacity permitting)?? BLATANT SHAMELESS PLUG.... Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild November Classic competition is November 19. All styles of beer (but no cider/mead/sake) will be judged as such alongside beers of other styles in two categories: "This" and "That" according to entrants' choice. Style is important, of course, but the most important consideration is whether it's good beer. We'll try to avoid downgrading scores because "it's an enjoyable beer, but you should have entered it as a dry stout rather than a foreign style stout." (face it, it's happened to all of us; substitute the style names of your choice) Email for forms. Snailmail is MHTG, Box 1365, Madison, WI 53701-1365. This is also a call for judges!!!! Cheers! Bob Paolino Disoriented in Badgerspace Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 94 15:57:46 EDT From: Yeebot at aol.com Subject: Cross-Country beerfest Greetings! Winter is rapidly approaching these parts of the Hudson River Valley and not being able to stand another winter such as the one before, I'm moving back to LA. (Actually, it's just time for the annual or at least bi-annual move cross country) Via Wash DC, Memphis, New Orleans, Houston, Austin, etc.; aka The Southern Route! Are there any must-see Brewpubs, Breweries, or freaky side-shows along the way? My only must-see right now is the Celis Brewery. BTW, I'm not on any set itinerary and will be willing to deviate from the current course. I really appreciate any response and will post any good stories if and when I get to the other side. Mucho Gusto, Michael Yee Angst Brewing Co. yeebot at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 94 14:58:22 PDT From: Lee Bollard <bollard at spk.hp.com> Subject: CO2 empty already? I'm new to kegging (using Corny kegs) and my 5lb CO2 tank is reading empty already. (at room temp too!) The guage started out reading about 800lbs. When I placed the cylinder into the fridge the reading immediately went to about 500lbs. I assumed this was normal. I've only dispensed one keg of beer, and used CO2 for various brewery tasks such as flooding carboys and testing used kegs for pressure holding ability. I understood that a 5lb cylinder of CO2 would last long enough to dispense *8* kegs of beer! Is this accurate? I noticed a couple leaks over the past few weeks, but they were very small/slow ones and have all been fixed by tightening connections. How long should I expect a 5lb cylinder of CO2 to last? Now that the guage reads zero, how long will the CO2 last? It's not actually empty yet. Thanks! Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Sep 1994 18:52:18 -0400 From: "Daniel F McConnell" <Daniel.F.McConnell at med.umich.edu> Subject: Top Ten List=noise Subject: Top Ten List=noise I know this is not Homebrewing, but it is beer stuff. I stumbled on The World's top 10 beer brands, by volume in 1993. Source: Impact Databank, 1994. Has anyone tried Brahma Chopp, Cerveja Antarctica or Polar? Please don't tell me that they are similar to the first 4 on the list. Rank Brand Brewer 1 Budweiser Anheuser-Busch Inc. 2 Miller Lite Miller Brewing Co. 3 Kirin Lager Kirin Brewery Co. Ltd 4 Bud light Anheuser-Busch Inc. 5 Brahma Chopp Cervejaria Brahma 6 Coors Light Coors Brewing Co. 7 Heineken Heineken N.V. 8 Cerveja Antarctica Antarctica Paulista 9 Polar Cervveceria Polar S.A. 10 Ashai Super Dry Ashai Breweries Ltd DanMcC Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 94 18:22:30 PDT From: Lee Bollard <bollard at spk.hp.com> Subject: More kegging questions... My Cornelius kegs hold pressure fine mostly.., but sometimes, after removing either a CO2 or liquid connector, there is seepage at the poppet. Fiddling with or pressing the poppet a bit usually stops the seepage. Is this normal or do I need new poppets? Or do I need new valve assemblies? Regards, Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 1994 20:34:27 -0500 (CDT) From: Frank Longmore <longmore at tyrell.net> Subject: Thermometer Alert! THERMOMETER ALERT! Recently, at Sams's Wholesale Club (here in Kansas City), I bought 3 dial thermometers for about $11. Seemed like a real good deal. Each has a 1" diameter dial, and a 5" long shaft perpendicular to it. The scale goes from 0 to 220 deg. F. They say "Cooper" and "NSF" on the dials and come with a red plastic holder. The shafts are about 1/8" in diameter, making them easy to install into a mash tun or a boiling pot wall, using a 1/8" hose barb. BUT THERE'S A CATCH! After checking all three against a few other thermometers at 72 deg. F, I proceeded to infusion mash 5 lbs of grain in my 6 gal insulated bucket. My temperatures all were too low. (hmmmm... suspicion mode activated...) I brought one to work, along with another very similar thermometer ("Igloo" brand, blue holder). What I found was that in a real 150 deg. F. heat chamber, the "Cooper" read 142 deg. and the "Igloo" read 140 deg. F. I next tested them with boiling water and the "Cooper" was 3 deg. low, and the "Igloo" was 5 deg. low. WHAT TO DO? Maybe just adjust them to be correct at 150 deg., It's pretty easy to twist the scale to change the calibration. Maybe I'll find a better thermometer.... But my Belgian ale came out delicious! lots of dextrins and body, helped no doubt by the really high conversion temperature... Caveat emptor, cherchez la fahrenheit, your mileage may vary... Frank >>>>>>>>>> Frank Longmore Internet: longmore at tyrell.net <<<<<<<<<<< >>>>>>>>>> Olathe, Kansas Compuserve: 70036,1546 <<<<<<<<<<< >>>>>>> I feel more like I do now than I did when I started... <<<<<<< Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 01:23:56 EDT From: Barkin at aol.com Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1535 (September 24, 1994) UNSUSCRIBE! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 01:43:30 -0600 From: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Automagical Mail Responder) Subject: Re: Odd & Ends (This message has been generated by a program, and is for your information only. No further action is necessary.) Your article has been received for publication in the Homebrew Digest. There are currently 28 article(s) ahead of yours in the queue that will be published first. If you would like to cancel your article for some reason, you may do so any time before it is published, by sending a message to homebrew-request whose body (not subject) contains the line: cancel article 09260143.4643 The cancel request must appear *exactly* as it does above, otherwise the request will fail. No need to put 'please' in there, since the requests are handled by a program. Remember, send the cancel request to homebrew-request, NOT homebrew! Thanks for your submission and your support of the Digest! Rob (program author) ****************************************************************** * NEW POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: 26 Sep 94 8:19:12 EDT From: Jim Ancona <Jim_Ancona.DBS at dbsnotes.dbsoftware.com> Subject: Re: homegrown hop update In HBD #1535, David Sapsis <dbsapsis at nature.Berkeley.EDU> writes: >On another note, also relating to the use of wet hops as presented in >hop.faq, hops are *not* 80% water; that is, there is not 4 times the mass of >free water as that mass leftover after drying. Consequently, the suggestion >of using 6 times as much mass of wet hops as dry ones is way off base. All >hops are measured for moisture using a dry weight basis, so 100% MC >indicates that hops at this level of moisture are one-half water. I recently harvested half a grocery bag of home grown hops. They weighed 20 oz. fresh. After drying on a screen in my attic for two days they weighed 4 oz. So in my case, they really were 80% water! Just one data point, YMMV. Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 09:56:05 EDT From: "Terence McGravey {91942}" <tpm at swl.msd.ray.com> Subject: Beer Chiller ? Is there any type of device on the market to chill beer while it is being dispensed ? I've seen people rent kegs for a keg party and receive a cooler with a cooling unit in it surrounded by ice. I guess the keg comes warm. Is there anything like this available to homebrewers who do not have the luxury of a spare fridge ? I'm sure I could make one by bending some copper tubing into a small wort chiller and submerse this in a cooler of ice between the keg and the tap but I would like to know if there's anything sold for this purpose ? Terry McGravey Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1537, 09/27/94