HOMEBREW Digest #1538 Wed 28 September 1994

Digest #1537 Digest #1539

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  King Cooker Use (Mark Montminy)
  Colorado Brewpubs (tmarcus)
  New Orleans (MTL) <fcost at ARL.MIL>
  Carboy crates (Henson W.C.(Bill))
  Too fresh hops (Bob Jones)
  Yeast/Temps/??? ("Todd M. McGuinness")
  Private email netiquette (uswlsrap)
  Aeration equipment (Jay Lonner)
  Re: Re. kegging (Dion Hollenbeck)
  cider in plastic? (RONALD MOUCKA)
  Keg carbonation (Gordon Baldwin)
  Using the yeast faq in local newsletters. (Patrick Weix)
  Re: homegrown hops (Jeff Benjamin)
  Yeast re-use / Yeast FAQ (It's mine-Go Away! :-) (Patrick Weix)
  Plumbing parts for SS kegs ("Palmer.John")
  Brazilian Red?? (Mark Alf)
  High-gravity fruit beer ? (Mark Worwetz)
  Subscription (Lee Reither)
  Aeration Equipment (Martin Lodahl)
  starting out (Philip Bollman)
  failing to find 'phor, fussy fermentation (Gee Starr)
  Steam, Glorious Steam (Martin Lodahl)
  Harpoon Octoberfest ("Terence McGravey {91942}")
  Canadian commercial cider questions (michael j dix)
  Step mashing (Matt_K)
  be published (John Kenny)
  Phil's Philler (fleck)

****************************************************************** * NEW POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 10:01:28 EDT From: Mark Montminy <markm at merlin.dev.cdx.mot.com> Subject: King Cooker Use I've been watching the digest for a followup, but haven't seen one... I just recently moved out to the garage doing full (extract) boils using a King Cooker, and have two questions: - What's the best way to control the flame? I've got both the adjustable regulator, and the adjustable venturi (?) on the casting. I get a nice blue flame by either turning up the regulator, or opening up the venturi to allow more air. Both sound like they're consuming propane like mad :) - How does one keep the "trub" from burning on the bottom of the pot? Or is this just something to live with? I get a nice circle where the flame is of burnt "stuff". I'm assuming it's hops and grain particles from the pellets and specialty grains. Should I just deal with it and scrub the pot clean when done, or can I avoid this? Any other general advice on using this puppy is more than welcome. - -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Internet: | Fidonet: markm at merlin.dev.cdx.mot.com | mark_montminy at bloomco.bilow.uu.ids.net Motorola Codex (617)821-7187 | The Bloom Beacon BBS (508)399-7536 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Just remember: when you go to court, you are trusting your fate to twelve people that weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 09:35:55 From: tmarcus at aspect.dmc.com Subject: Colorado Brewpubs hello all, I will be flying into Denver on Oct. 15th and heading up to Rocky Mountain National Park via Boulder to do some backpacking. I'll be returning to Denver on the 21st and have already got my AHA tickets to the GABF. Does anyone have any brewpub suggestions for the trip between Denver and RMNP. e-mail direct is fine. I'll post a summary or send direct if there is any interest. TIA - Todd A. Marcus - tmarcus at aspect.dmc.com Brewito Ergo Sum! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 10:09:37 EDT From: Fred Cost (MTL) <fcost at ARL.MIL> Subject: New Orleans Fellow Homebrewers, Three homebrewers in a group of five people are heading to New Orleans from 6 - 11 October for nothing but fun. I've been there once, and am a bit familiar with Bourbon St. What else should we do and see? Is the Dixie Brewery worth seeing? Any tips on swamp tours, riverboats, etc.? Please send private email to the address below. TIA, Fred fcost at arl.army.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:00:27 -0500 From: awchrd2 at peabody.sct.ucarb.com (Henson W.C.(Bill)) Subject: Carboy crates I have seen several postings on the dangers of moving and handling full carboys. I have crates that I made for all my carboys. These are made from firring(sp?) strips purchased from the local lumber yard. I make the crates tall enough so that I can stack them ( I have 6) in the space of two. It makes moving and lifting a full carboy very easy, also I can store clean ones upside down to keep out dust. If anyone is interested in details, please private E-Mail, if response is high I'll post. Regards, awchrd2 at peabody.sct.ucarb.com (Henson W.C.(Bill)) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 07:57:32 +0900 From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) Subject: Too fresh hops As David Sapsis says in a recent post, regarding the use of wet hops, >Distinct flavors of pine/citrus, somewhat reminiscent of grapefruit are all >over the wet-hopped sample. About a year ago Mr. Fresh Hops (Mark Garetz) came over for a little beer talk and a few brews. He brought along a beer for tasting. I tasted it and told Mark the hops were too fresh! He about passed out. This is the first time I have every experienced this. The flavors and smells were as Davis says pine/citris and grapefruity. Now as far as fresh hops goes, Mark does a bang up job. Maybe too good a job in some cases? This really is a rare thing. I would not expect this to happen in almost any case where we as consumers are buying hops that are either shipped or stored for any length of time. Now as for those fresh off the vine hops some of you are growing, user beware. Bob Jones bjones at novax.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:10:08 -0500 (CDT) From: "Todd M. McGuinness" <tmmpci at Mcs.Net> Subject: Yeast/Temps/??? Hbers, I am not certain whether it is me but today my HBD was all messed up. What happened? I also didn't get a reply on my question about a Raspberry Wheat recipe using all fresh ingreds, and All-grains. Any one??? Bueller, Bueller, Bueller? Also would like to ask again for any Attenuation info on Wiehenstephen Wyeast, yeast bag??? Hey can we stop going off about Demera already. ;-) Private response O.K. TIA Todd Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 11:09:15 EDT From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.COM Subject: Private email netiquette - ----------------------- Mail item text follows --------------- To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: Private email netiquette One way to be a "contributor" to hbd is to respond to brewers' questions by private email if the response would appear to be of limited general interest to the group. I've posted questions, answered questions, and received answers to my own questions from others who took the time to reply. Sometimes when I answer questions by private email, I wonder if they are ever received. (I know that a decent mailer will offer the option of an automatic confirmation message, but not everyone--myself included--has access to a decent mailer.) If you post a question and get an answer by private email, a brief reply is a good courtesy to observe. You don't have to gush with thanks, just let the person know you got it. (At the very least, it tells the sender s/he can delete the original message and avoid clutter.) I usually try to thank a sender for a reply, but sometimes I forget also. I'll try to observe my own advice. Now, a question for you folks in the Nutmeg State: I'd previously asked for recommendations on breweries/BPs in Hartford, as well as elsewhere in Connecticut and Rhode Island. I repeat my thanks for the suggestions. The trip still isn't for a couple weeks, and it occurred to me that it would be helpful to know about stores in Hartford where I can expect to find a good selection (preferably at decent prices) of Northeastern brews to take back with me. I know that the concept of decent beer prices in Connecticut is oxymoronic, at least compared to Upstate New York, but I won't be back there until the holidays, so I'll live with Connecticut prices for the moment. Private email, of course. Thanks! Bob Paolino Disoriented in Badgerspace Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 08:22:02 -0800 (PST) From: Jay Lonner <8635660 at NESSIE.CC.WWU.EDU> Subject: Aeration equipment Whoa, Monday's HBD sucked big-time! What happened? But one thing that cropped up in that issue was GubGuy's question about aeration equipment. I too am interested in finding a source for an in-line activated charcoal filter. Not finding one is what has kept me from using an aquarium pump to date. But in the meantime one of the neatest tricks I've learned on the HBD is the construction and use of an aeration wand. What it is is a piece of racking cane with a bunch of small holes drilled near one end. When racking from boiler to primary, stick the undrilled end of this into the fermenter, and connect the holey end to your racking hose. When you start your siphon this will draw lots of air into the wort -- it's like a carburator for wort. I used to have occasional problems with stuck fermentations, but since using this device I've had no trouble at all. Best of all it's cheap -- free, even, for those who have broken racking canes lying around (and who doesn't). I don't know whose idea this was originally, but whoever you are, thanks! Jay. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 08:40:52 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: Re. kegging >>>>> "Stan" == Stan Fisher <stanf at indirect.com> writes: >>> Question: What CO2 pressure/time-length is needed to artificially >>> carbonate 5 gallons O'beer? >>> >>> (the keg is refrigerated, the CO2 is not, and the beer was primed >>> with ~1 cup malt extract for several weeks and had pressure when I >>> initially tapped it) >> No problem. Pressure up to 35 to 40 psi and shake for several minutes. >> Then let the beer settle for several hours before bleeding down the >> pressure and sampling. Stan> Ouch! Does anyone have the "Volumes of CO2" chart in ascii to Stan> post or mail to these folks? 35 to 40 psi is a roll of the Stan> dice! If you shake too long you've got a gusher if you shake to Stan> short (time) you're still flat. Usually I just mail the chart to people when they ask this type of question, but there have been so many questions on carbonating, I guess it is time to post it. The credit for the chart goes to someone else, I just have archived it. Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- While we're on the subject of kegging and pressure, I've come up with a formula and a table for determining what pressure to apply to achieve a certain carbonation level. I believe that this table is more useful compared to the other table that has appeared on the HBD and elsewhere. It's smaller (fits easily in an 80 column window), but contains all the needed information in a more obvious arrangement. (It makes more sense to me to ask "what pressure do I need" rather than "what do I get if I use this pressure"). Besides, it can do any temperature. You can print the table out and stick it in your brewing logbook or on the side of your kegs. TABLE Look at the row that corresponds to your keg temperature, and read the number at the column corresponding to the desired carbonation level. That number is the pressure to apply to the beer, in PSI. PRESSURE REQUIRED FOR DESIRED CARBONATION Volumes of CO2 desired Temp 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 3.0 32F 3.5 4.4 5.4 6.3 7.3 8.2 9.2 10.1 11.0 12.0 12.9 34F 4.3 5.3 6.3 7.3 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.2 12.1 13.1 14.1 36F 5.1 6.2 7.2 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.2 12.3 13.3 14.3 15.3 38F 6.0 7.0 8.1 9.1 10.2 11.2 12.3 13.3 14.4 15.4 16.5 40F 6.8 7.9 9.0 10.1 11.2 12.3 13.4 14.4 15.5 16.6 17.7 42F 7.7 8.8 10.0 11.1 12.2 13.3 14.4 15.5 16.7 17.8 18.9 44F 8.6 9.7 10.9 12.1 13.2 14.4 15.5 16.7 17.8 19.0 20.1 46F 9.5 10.7 11.8 13.0 14.2 15.4 16.6 17.8 19.0 20.2 21.3 48F 10.4 11.6 12.8 14.0 15.3 16.5 17.7 18.9 20.1 21.4 22.6 50F 11.3 12.5 13.8 15.0 16.3 17.6 18.8 20.1 21.3 22.6 23.8 52F 12.2 13.5 14.8 16.1 17.3 18.6 19.9 21.2 22.5 23.8 25.1 54F 13.1 14.4 15.7 17.1 18.4 19.7 21.1 22.4 23.7 25.0 26.3 56F 14.0 15.4 16.7 18.1 19.5 20.8 22.2 23.6 24.9 26.3 27.6 58F 15.0 16.4 17.8 19.2 20.6 21.9 23.3 24.7 26.1 27.5 28.9 60F 15.9 17.3 18.8 20.2 21.6 23.1 24.5 25.9 27.4 28.8 30.2 62F 16.9 18.3 19.8 21.3 22.7 24.2 25.7 27.1 28.6 30.0 31.5 64F 17.8 19.3 20.8 22.3 23.8 25.3 26.8 28.3 29.8 31.3 32.8 66F 18.8 20.3 21.9 23.4 25.0 26.5 28.0 29.6 31.1 32.6 34.1 68F 19.8 21.4 22.9 24.5 26.1 27.6 29.2 30.8 32.4 33.9 35.5 70F 20.8 22.4 24.0 25.6 27.2 28.8 30.4 32.0 33.6 35.2 36.8 72F 21.8 23.4 25.1 26.7 28.4 30.0 31.6 33.3 34.9 36.5 38.2 74F 22.8 24.5 26.2 27.8 29.5 31.2 32.9 34.5 36.2 37.9 39.5 76F 23.8 25.5 27.2 29.0 30.7 32.4 34.1 35.8 37.5 39.2 40.9 78F 24.9 26.6 28.4 30.1 31.8 33.6 35.3 37.1 38.8 40.5 42.3 80F 25.9 27.7 29.5 31.2 33.0 34.8 36.6 38.3 40.1 41.9 43.7 PRESSURE REQUIRED FOR DESIRED CARBONATION Volumes of CO2 desired Temp 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 3.0 01C 4.2 5.2 6.2 7.2 8.1 9.1 10.1 11.1 12.0 13.0 14.0 02C 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0 11.0 12.0 13.0 14.0 15.0 03C 5.7 6.8 7.8 8.9 9.9 10.9 12.0 13.0 14.0 15.1 16.1 04C 6.5 7.6 8.6 9.7 10.8 11.9 12.9 14.0 15.1 16.1 17.2 05C 7.3 8.4 9.5 10.6 11.7 12.8 13.9 15.0 16.1 17.2 18.3 06C 8.1 9.2 10.3 11.5 12.6 13.7 14.9 16.0 17.1 18.2 19.4 07C 8.8 10.0 11.2 12.3 13.5 14.7 15.8 17.0 18.2 19.3 20.5 08C 9.6 10.8 12.0 13.2 14.4 15.6 16.8 18.0 19.2 20.4 21.6 09C 10.4 11.7 12.9 14.1 15.4 16.6 17.8 19.0 20.3 21.5 22.7 10C 11.3 12.5 13.8 15.0 16.3 17.6 18.8 20.1 21.3 22.6 23.8 11C 12.1 13.4 14.7 16.0 17.2 18.5 19.8 21.1 22.4 23.7 25.0 12C 12.9 14.2 15.6 16.9 18.2 19.5 20.8 22.1 23.5 24.8 26.1 13C 13.7 15.1 16.4 17.8 19.2 20.5 21.9 23.2 24.5 25.9 27.2 14C 14.6 16.0 17.4 18.7 20.1 21.5 22.9 24.3 25.6 27.0 28.4 15C 15.4 16.8 18.3 19.7 21.1 22.5 23.9 25.3 26.7 28.1 29.6 16C 16.3 17.7 19.2 20.6 22.1 23.5 25.0 26.4 27.8 29.3 30.7 17C 17.1 18.6 20.1 21.6 23.1 24.5 26.0 27.5 29.0 30.4 31.9 18C 18.0 19.5 21.0 22.6 24.1 25.6 27.1 28.6 30.1 31.6 33.1 19C 18.9 20.4 22.0 23.5 25.1 26.6 28.1 29.7 31.2 32.7 34.3 20C 19.8 21.4 22.9 24.5 26.1 27.6 29.2 30.8 32.4 33.9 35.5 21C 20.7 22.3 23.9 25.5 27.1 28.7 30.3 31.9 33.5 35.1 36.7 22C 21.6 23.2 24.9 26.5 28.1 29.8 31.4 33.0 34.6 36.3 37.9 23C 22.5 24.2 25.8 27.5 29.2 30.8 32.5 34.1 35.8 37.5 39.1 24C 23.4 25.1 26.8 28.5 30.2 31.9 33.6 35.3 37.0 38.7 40.3 25C 24.3 26.1 27.8 29.5 31.3 33.0 34.7 36.4 38.1 39.9 41.6 REFERENCE Volumes of CO2: British style beers = 2.00 - 2.40 Most other beers = 2.40 - 2.85 High-carbonation beers = 2.85 - 2.95 FORMULA If you use a spreadsheet or a programmable calculator for your brewing endeavors, this formula works very well (it was used to create the table): Pressure = F(Temperature, Volume) P = -16.6999 - 0.0101059 T + 0.00116512 T^2 + 0.173354 T V + 4.24267 V - 0.0684226 V^2 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 16:15:35 GMT From: rmoucka at OMN.COM (RONALD MOUCKA) Subject: cider in plastic? Brewers, Along the same lines as Chris Cooper's question regarding cider in corny kegs, can you do the same in a plastic carboy? Would the long term fermentation (2 months) in plastic result in oxidation or acidic cider in plastic problems? Also, I've heard that the blue tint plastic carboy I have is a "vinyl" product and not as vulnerable to problems the old style plastic carboys (clear plastic) were. Any comments? Thanks, Ron rmoucka at omn.com This message created on OMN BBS (303) 667-1149 data Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 08:52:32 -0700 (PDT) From: gbaldw at zaphod.usin.com (Gordon Baldwin) Subject: Keg carbonation What I use to carbonate my kegs is to refrigerate the carboy before transfering, then once the keg is full, crank to 30 lbs and shake inverted for 4 minutes, remove the gas and leave overnight. Works like a charm. If the carbonation is off I adjust it in the first few glasses. I tried the lower pressure, but I ended up shaking for about 30 minutes and I don't have the arm strength for that. Plus over that time period my beer warms up and the target pressure changes. Last thursday I brewed my ASCII standard ale using Red Star (they have cleaned it up a lot in the last few years), and on Saturday I brewed a wheat. I did the old Father Barlywine trick(where has that dude been?) of racking the first beer out of the bucket and dumping the second beer right onto the dregs of the first. Well I pitched at 2pm and had foam to the top of the bucket by 5pm and by the 10 pm it looked like the foam was going to take over my workbench. By morning the foam died down and when I racked it Sunday morning at 10am the sg was down to 1.008 from 1.052. Temperatures were right about 70 in my garage. By this morning (Monday) it is starting to clear. When I have done this before the beer has picked up some harsh tones that take a week or so to go away. This definitely gets my record for the fastest ferment. At this rate I could keg in 72 hours from the beginning of the brew session. (I think I will give it more time than that to age) - -- Gordon Baldwin gbaldw at usin.com Olympia Washington Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 08:56:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Patrick Weix <weix at netcom.com> Subject: Using the yeast faq in local newsletters. This is for Doug Mewhort in Canada, but it applies to many: Anyone may use the Yeast Faq in any non-commercial venture. If you're going to make money, I want my cut! I consider Homebrewing Clubs as non-profit, even though you may pay for a newsletter. Other magazines that promote the practice of brewing, but are for profit should contact me about writing an article. Donations of any amount and honorary Brew Club memberships are cheerfully accepted but not required. I put the Yeast Faq together to disseminate information; and I hope that others find it useful. The only thing I ask is that I get credit for putting it together, and that the contributors get credit where noted, i.e. don't edit out my thanks to save space. Thanks for asking, Patrick "The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away." Tom Waits /------------------------------------------------------------\ | Patrick Weix weix at netcom.com | | UT Southwestern Medical Center weix at utsw.swmed.edu | | 5323 Harry Hines Blvd tel: (214) 648-5050 | | Dallas, TX 75235 fax: (214) 648-5453 | \------------------------------------------------------------/ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 10:02:07 MDT From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Re: homegrown hops David Sapsis <dbsapsis at nature.Berkeley.EDU> writes: > ...hops are *not* 80% water; that is, there is not 4 times the mass of > free water as that mass leftover after drying. Consequently, the > suggestion of using 6 times as much mass of wet hops as dry ones is way > off base. All hops are measured for moisture using a dry weight basis, > so 100% MC indicates that hops at this level of moisture are one-half > water. Thus, assuming all other things equal between wet and dry cones, > one would use twice as much fresh, wet hops as an equivelent mass of dry > ones. I figured this out myself, the hard way. I wish David had posted this last fall when I made beer with fresh-off-the-vine hops. I had heard the "hops are 80% water" stat, and so assumed you wanted about 8 times as much undried hops by weight. Whew. I was a little conservative, and so ended up using 9 oz of homegrowns off the vine. Not only was this high to begin with, but I have since (empirically) determined that these hops are relatively high alpha to start with. I ended up with a wonderful pale ale that was so bitter that my roommate, who usually quaffs every homebrew in the house before I even get to taste any (Hi Pat!), doesn't often care to drink it. It's an ESB^5 -- Extra Super Bitter^5. I have since used undried hops at a rate of about 2X that of dried, which matches David's statement above. This has produced excellent results. As far as flavor goes, I have not noticed much of a difference between fresh-hopped ales and those made with the same hops that have been dried first. However, I haven't done any side-by-side comparisons. The beers I've made have also been quite different from each other, which may have covered up any slight differences in hop character. - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium." - T.S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 09:03:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Patrick Weix <weix at netcom.com> Subject: Yeast re-use / Yeast FAQ (It's mine-Go Away! :-) First, an answer to your question: >I've been re-pitching yeast from the primary for the last 10 batches or so >and have noticed that the yeast starts to lose it's ability to floculate >after about 3 successive re-pitches. I've noticed this with 1007 and 1056 >and was wondering if this was a mutative quality or just due to the fact >that my initial pitching volume was larger with each batch. >There was no detectable (at least on my behalf) change in the finished beer >with 3 re-pitches other than the length of time it took to clear; the 3rd >batch generally had to be dosed with PVP to get the yeast out of suspension. >I am considering washing the yeast using Dave's recommended procedure in the >Yeast FAQ at Sierra, perhaps this will "clear up" my problem. It may, it depends on how you are ``repitching''. If you are not doing the yeast washing as detailed in the yeast Faq, then you may be carrying along debris and whatever. This may be slow to settle out, although the yeast may be flocculating just fine. >A quick note on the Yeast FAQ, I've noticed that it is considerably out of >date, early 1993 I think. I would be glad to update it in both text and HTML >for the WWW users if I can collect enough detail from all of you about the >new strains available. Actually, the yeast Faq was last updated in May of 1994. I recently put out a call for information, and I will put out another version of the Faq soon. You must have looked at an out-of-date version. I have been updating it about twice a year since its inception. The most recent version can always be found at: sierra.stanford.edu:/pub/homebrew/docs/yeast.faq.Z To all who keep copies of the Faq available on WWW: Please make sure that you have the latest version! I will try to post a html version to sierra at the time of this next update. Patrick Return to table of contents
Date: 26 Sep 1994 09:15:15 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Plumbing parts for SS kegs Greg Ames asked about the Types of Stainless steel fittings: Having just completed my own fact-finding on this subject, I understand what they are talking about. There are several types of standard fittings made by various companies. Examples are Swagelock, Cajon and the AN (flare-type). Then you have your standard compression and National Pipe Thread. I think what Greg's supplier was wanting to know was what type of connection was he seeking. I just finished putting together my systems parts over the weekend. I found that I could easily obtain stainless pipe, but had no end of trouble getting it threaded. Solution was to purchase copper soldering fittings that were threaded to NPT for the chrome plated brass ball valve and silver solder those over the SS pipe. (Get the pipe welded in first.) If you are welding the pipe, make sure that it is an L grade, suitable for welding (ex. 304L, 316L) or 321 (which is alloy stabilzed). Your fittings don't need to be a particular stainless unless you are welding to them. Stainless or Brass work great. On Greg's question about the difference between copper and brass: Brass is stronger, harder and machines better, hence its use over copper for threaded fittings. (Thats where the lead comes in by-the-way, it acts as an intrinsic lubricant for machining. The lead exists as minute globules within the brass, and during machining a micro thin film ends up getting smeared over the surface.) Copper is used for Sweat (solder) fittings because copper can be easily extruded to form these simple shapes and it solders readily. There is periodic concern about lead in brass and its potential for toxicity. When you add up all the factors concerning this for home brewers, you get a non-problem. The amount of lead on the surface is very small, the contact times are relativly short, and you only use a couple of small brass fittings anyway. For the very cautious, I talked to the Chem Lab and they recommended the following soaking solution to dissove off the surface lead. Glacial Acetic Acid mixed 1-to-1 with Hydrogen Peroxide. We are talking Lab strength here. I will conjecture that as this concentration works very well and quickly, then the non-lab strength grades available from supermarkets and drug stores will also work, just taking a lot longer. By the way, this solution must be at room temp or the hydrogen peroxide will degrade. Anyway, my SS part solution was a 3/8 Ball valve connecting to 3/8 NPT-to-3/8 copper Sweat fitting, Silver soldered to the SS pipe. The 1/2 inch pipe was welded with fillet welds thru a 1/2 inch hole in the keg. Inside the keg, the pipe is swaged-out holding a collar and nut that the Flare elbow attaches to. The elbow is an adapter that has female NPT on the other end, and an NPT/Compression T fitting hooks up to this. The Compression T fitting attaches the circular tubing manifold that will run around the inside circumference, to facilitate whirlpool trub removal in the boiler. In the Mash/Lauter Tun keg, the same arrangement will have a smaller diameter and be a double loop to get the manifold away from the keg walls, covering more area under the mash, while not obstructing the movement of grain on the bottom of the keg. Hopefully, this will preclude scorching during step mashes. On ball valves; I have noticed several varieties. Many are imported from Italy. The ball valve I finally selected was forged brass, chrome plated and used Teflon seals around the ball. It is manufactured by B&K and distributed by Ace Hardware. I like it. I mounted it 4 inches out from the keg to get it away from the heat of the propane burner the keg sits on. I have had a lot of fun building my system. If anyone has questions on why/how I did it, feel free to mail me. John Palmer - Metallurgist for International Space Station Alpha MDA-SSD M&P palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 09:55:35 -0700 From: alf%elcx.dnet at esu36.ateng.az.honeywell.COM (Mark Alf) Subject: Brazilian Red?? My friend was at the local brewing supply store last Friday and bought some 'Brazilian Red' dry extract. Does anybody know what this is? He said the guy in the store didn't know anything other than 'It's new.' It was a dark reddish brown, coarse powder and it sparkled in the light. Could this possibly be some kind of unrefined sugar? If you know anything about this, please respond. Thanks, Mark Alf (Alf%eccx.dnet at esu36.ateng.az.honeywell.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:56:14 -0600 (MDT) From: Mark_Worwetz at Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz) Subject: High-gravity fruit beer ? Howdy from Zion! I have just bottled a very tasty high-gravity cherry ale (OG 1.072) and have a question for the HBD meisters. I have made several high gravity beers using 9 lbs. Breiss Amber extract, specialty grains, hops and Wyeast 1338 European Ale. I usually end with a terminal gravity in the 1.014-1.018 range. This seems quite good for a brew with such a high OG. With my latest batch, I added 8lbs of cherries and 1/2 lb raspberries for a fifteen minutes steep at the end of the boil (ala Papazian). It went through what seemed a very active primary and secondary fermentation (three weeks total) and finished very clear and tasty. However, the final gravity is 1.024! This seems quite high to me (67% attenuation). I have gotten conflicting information about the fermentability of the cherry and raspberry juice. Is the fruit sugar fermentable? If so, how much of it is fermentable? I only worry because if it is fermentable, and the fermentation was just stuck, I may have created two cases of bottle bombs. Private responses OK, but I have not seen any mention in the HBD of fruit fermentability. If all responses are private, I will post a summary. TIA, Mark Worwetz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:12:19 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: Yeast lifespans In HBD 1535, John "RaceBrewer at aol.com" Mulvihill asks about the lifespan of a single cell of yeast. I got to thinking about how to increase the lifespans of my yeast cultures. What kind of factors influence the lifespans? What steps can I take to make them last forever? Well, as close to forever as is possible... Optimum temperatures? pH level? Light environment? Praise singing? What can I do to keep these buggers alive? Ever curious, Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: 26 Sep 94 10:06:59 -0600 From: Lee.Reither at erpcbbs.mmbbs.mn.org (Lee Reither) Subject: Subscription Please cancel my subscription. Lee.Reither at erpcbbs.mmbbs.mn.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 10:29:34 -0700 (PDT) From: malodah at pbgueuze.scrm2700.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl) Subject: Aeration Equipment In HOMEBREW Digest #1536, Ray Ownby asked: > ... I need some specifics on wort aeration since I plan > to make a Belgian White for my next attempt to find Beer Nirvana. As I > understand it, Belgian beers need much more oxygen than most other kinds. Why would that be? > ... I decided to go with an aquarium pump and airstone ... > ... Miller has a little more, seemingly contradictory information > on the subject. Refering to the aquarium pump setup, I quote from the book: > "To use this wort aerator, simply insert it into the airlock opening in your > starter tank and let the pump run until the headspace is full of foam. > Repeat this every hour for 5 hours *after* pitching. Then remove the device > and let the wort settle for about 7 hours before racking the wort off into > your fermenter." After pitching? Everything I've read on the subject > says to not introduce oxygen once the yeast has been pitched. So Question > #1: does anybody follow this method of aeration? If so, has it seemed to > detrimentally affect your finished product? First, I don't usually use this method, but I don't see how it could cause a problem. Following this method, what you'd be essentially doing is keeping the yeast in their aerobic mode for a longer time than is normally the case, and as yeast reproduce much more rapidly under those conditions, you'd be growing up a larger biomass. When you stop feeding it air, fermentation will begin after the air's depleted. If the wort is cool when you begin the process, there should be no problem. > ... I am reluctant to pump room air > through my cooled wort. The accompanying illustration of this aerator shows > some kind of in-line filter attatched, but the book makes no mention of this. > Question #2: What is a good filter material to screen out the nasties > before they contaminate my precious fluid? And where can it be obtained? This is a very legitimate concern, in my opinion. I've seen frequent references to 0.2 micron filters being used for the purpose, but I've just used the method that I got, if I recall, from Pete Soper, a much-missed HBD contributor of years ago, and have since seen in a contribution to Brewing Techniques: A small widemouth bottle with a 2-hole stopper, a long tube going through one hole that nearly reaches the bottom, and a short tube in the other hole. Run tubing from the pump to the long tube, and from the short tube to the airstone. Fill the bottle about half-way with mild hydrogen peroxide solution or cheap vodka, and bubble the air through it. Works fine. - Martin = Martin Lodahl Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning Pacific*Bell = = malodah at pacbell.com Sacramento, CA USA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! (Unk.) = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 12:37:26 -0500 (CDT) From: Philip Bollman <umbollma at cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: starting out I am just starting out making beer. I have made two batches from a kit and they turned out ok but not great. I was woundering what I needed to start making beer, and a recipe for a good but some what simple first batch. Could you please send the information to one of the addresses below. Thank you. ______________________________________________________________________________ P. Bollman E-Mail: umbollma at ccu.umanitoba.ca U of M Computer Engineering ap634 at freenet.carleton.ca ______________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 12:37:34 -0500 From: geestarr at edge.ercnet.com (Gee Starr) Subject: failing to find 'phor, fussy fermentation ...I've been following the HBD closely for a few months, now. I am a lurker, not so much out of shyness or lack of community-spirit, but because when I ~do~ post, my epistles tend to suffer from massive verbal hemmorhaging, so I sit tight as much as I can. At any rate, Hi There at last and nice to finally meet you guys in person... Intermittently over the past several weeks, there has been some discussion of the merits of Iodaphor versus bleach for sanitizing. I had never heard of Iodaphor until it popped up here in the HBD, but based on what I've read so far, I'd like to give it a try. Unfortunately, nobody here on the Third Coast (Nashville, TN) seems to have heard of it either. Pharmacies and surgical supply stores simply scratch their head. And the proprietor of Music City's lone brew store (who, though a kindly fellow, has a surprisingly cursory knowledge of homebrewing -- reflected in the frustratingly narrow selection of inventory in his store ... which is yet another example of why, for this novice extract homebrewer, the HBD has time and again been a much more valuable source of information than the flesh-and-blood resources at hand, but I digress exceedingly) well, he has never heard of the stuff, either. So I humbly ask the HBD community, where may I find Iodaphor? Is it available through a mail-order house, perhaps? I confess I am not a reader of Zymurgy; if last month's issue contained a two page spread advertising "Uncle Gummo's Iodaphor Warehouse," then I will bear my chagrin as appropriate. Oh, and if you have moment, I'd like to trouble whoever e-zaps me a response with one more personal question: If / when your fermentation is stuck, do you usually pitch another batch of yeast, or do you go ahead and bottle it? Why? Is what you do dependent on the gravity? I've heard (and read) arguments either way. I'm curious because my last two batches have gone kaput at around 1.033-36 (from 1.072-76). The results, of course, have been a bit sweet to the taste -- which isn't so bad in a ginger beer but is not what I want with Galena hops. Clearly I'm lacking something in the yeast department (never thought I'd complain about that), and I've been researching the faq's and archives for pristine (yet practical and pragmatic for the non-professional) pitching procedure. In the meantime, however, I'm curious as to how you folk treat slacker colonies. TIA, and I'll be glad to sum 'sponses if public desires -- just zap me. gee / \ o o o (GeeStarr at edge.ercnet.com) o O "...and the 'G' stands for 'non-sequitur'..." o Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 11:10:54 -0700 (PDT) From: malodah at pbgueuze.scrm2700.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl) Subject: Steam, Glorious Steam In HOMEBREW Digest #1534, Kevin Kane asked about a favorite subject of mine: K> I've noticed that anyone posting, describing, brewing, etc, anything K> about "steam beer" will religiously note that this has been trademarked by K> Anchor brewing. Papazian gives a brief explanation about it in his book. K> K> Here's my problem: I was recently reading the novel _McTeague_ by K> Norton and ran across a paragraph where the doomed hero enjoys a pitcher of K> steam beer with his friend, Marcus. In light of some of the bandwidth on K> trademarks like "Boston Ale", etc., how does this fit in with Anchor's fine K> brew? What I'd like is a little more historical information, if possible.By K> the way, the novel takes place in San Francisco. And in HOMEBREW Digest #1535, Allan Rubinoff abswered: A> McTeague (by Frank Norris, not Norton) was written in about 1900. At A> the time, steam beer would have been very common in SF. A> A> By the time Fritz Maytag bought Anchor, Anchor Steam was the last A> remaining steam beer. So Maytag was able to trademark the term. To which I'd like to add a couple of glosses. Norris used steam beer in that novel for a very specific reason. Steam first appears in the very first paragraph of the book, and is used to define the title character. At the time the book was written (the copyright on the copy I have is 1899) steam beer was cheap swill. Born from the necessity of fermenting with lager yeast without access to ice or mechanical refrigeration, it was quickly eclipsed by lagers when the railroad made ice-harvesting in the Sierras a viable proposition, but hung on as it could be produced both quickly and cheaply. Surviving commercial recipes bear no resemblance to the world-class beer of today, beyond their heavy hopping and fermentation in shallow pans. An 1894 article in Western Brewer (this is from memory; I could easily be wrong) described steam beer as "not a connoisseur's drink;" by having it be McTeague's favorite beverage, Norris established right away that the loutish mineworker-turned-quack-dentist was coarse in his tastes. Obviously, it doesn't work quite the same way today ... As Allan says, no one else had used the name for a long time when Maytag revolutionized the style. It's his contention that anyone using the name now will be attempting to trade on the reputation of Anchor's product, so he registered and defends the trademark. Homebrewers feel a certain resentment because of this, and their punctilious use of the "<tm>" delicately lampoons the absurdity of it. - Martin = Martin Lodahl Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning Pacific*Bell = = malodah at pacbell.com Sacramento, CA USA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! (Unk.) = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 14:53:10 EDT From: "Terence McGravey {91942}" <tpm at swl.msd.ray.com> Subject: Harpoon Octoberfest There have been requests for additional info so here it is : Harpoon Octoberfest : Friday September 30, 5:30-11:00; Saturday October 1, 1:00-11:00 and Sunday October 2, 1:00-7:00. In the brewery and under circus tents with cold beers, food, bands, dancing and prizes. Admission is $6, cash bars, public parking and free shuttle from South Station. For more information call Harpoon voice mail 617-574-9551 x2. Mass Bay Brewing Cop. is located at 306 Nothern Avenue in the Marine Industrial Park. The Brewery is past the World Trade Center and Jimmy's Restaurant. To reach Nothern Ave. follow Atlantic Ave. past the Congress Street intersection, and take the first right onto Nothern Ave. Harpoon is located one mile down the road on the left. From 93, take Exit 22 when coming from the south, and exit 23 when coming from the north. Terry McGravey - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 13:13:53 PDT" From: michael j dix <mdix at dcssc.sj.hp.com> Subject: Canadian commercial cider questions Calling on Canadian and other knowledgeable members of HBD: Some fifteen years ago I noticed that canned cider in six-packs was available in Montreal grocery stores, right next to the beer. After buying some and trying some, it seemed to be similar to beer in fizziness and alcoholic content. If my recollection is correct, this suggests that no sugar was added, and that enough cider could be fermented at one time to last from harvest to harvest. So, I have some questions about how it is made: 1) What apple varieties are used? 2) What is the typical O.G. and titratable acidity? Is sugar added? 3) Are any details known about fermentation and aging? (e.g. yeast) 4) Is a year's supply made at one time, or is it made from stored sweet juice or concentrate throughout the year? 4a) If it is all made at once, how can it last for a year without changing (or does it?) Best regards, Mike Dix (mdix at dcssc.sj.hp.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 16:25:18 edt From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca Subject: Step mashing Message: I have a quick question re. mashing in a picnic cooler. I currently use single step mashes. A recipe I want to try calls for multi step mash. Is this possible in a cooler or do I have to do this on the stove top/in the oven? Private e-mail is fine. I'll summarize if there is enough interest. Thank's in advance Matt Matt_k at ceo.sts-systems.ca P.S. The HBD is a great digest. It is entertaining and VERY educational. It has roused me from my brewing sleep and has caused me to start brewing again. All grain this time. An electric brew kettle (cut off keg) is currently under construction. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 94 17:26:27 PDT From: jkenny at telogy1.com (John Kenny) Subject: be published I am looking for information on used brewing equipment available in the S.F. Bay Area. Other topics I am intersted in are the effects of high altitude (above 7,000 feet) and temperature fluctuation on the brewing process. My only stab at brewing was not a failure, but wasn't a great triumph either. Please send any info to.... jkenny at telogy1.com or call(415)462-5207 Thanks, John Kenny Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 21:26:33 -0400 From: fleck at newton.franklincoll.edu Subject: Phil's Philler OK. What's the deal with my Phil's Philler. . . For about 10 batches of bottling it worked like a charm and I thought it was the best $10.95 I ever spent. Now, though, it seems to get stuck in the filling position and my brew overflows. I have been faithful in cleaning and sanitizing. I don't notice it hanging up on anything. But during my last three bottlings it has not shut off properly. Any suggestions? TIA Susie Fleck fleck at newton.franklincoll.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1538, 09/28/94