HOMEBREW Digest #1611 Thu 22 December 1994

Digest #1610 Digest #1612

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Yeast Combinations (WLK.Wbst311)
  DON'T READ THIS if you don't want your boss to hear you laughing (uswlsrap)
  I Have a yeast and don't know its name (Timothy Staiano)
  Body, Red Dog ("Harralson, Kirk")
  Volume problems in a Cooler Mashtun (djt2)
  Proteins, dextrins and body ("Allen L. Ford")
  Red Dog (Bob Bessette)
  Homebrew Digest #1607 (Decembe (m.bryson2)
  Air Pump Filter? ("Timothy P. Laatsch)
  Pitching Champagne Yeast / Iodophor / Starch Test (npyle)
  More on Sam Adams (Jim Busch)
  Amaretto/ Irish Cream Recipes ("KEVIN FONS Q/T BPR X7814)
  Rogue Saint Red Recipe (MFOR8178)
  Mill Review, Gears (Jack Schmidling)
  Water Analysis Help ("KEVIN FONS Q/T BPR X7814)
  Peated Malt (Steve Armbrust)
  Clogged funnels (TPuskar)
  Farmers' Ale (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 04:47:00 PST From: WLK.Wbst311 at xerox.com Subject: Yeast Combinations Greetings Paul Baker writes: >On a related note: a few months back on RCB someone posted a raving review >of a barley wine they had made using ale yeast and then pitching champagne yeast >after the first racking. That is another yeast combination which may be >worth exploring. If anyone has any experience out there please speak up... I have used the combination of Wyeast 1056 and Red Star Dry Champagne Yeast for both Barley Wines and Dry, Hard Ciders with excellent results. I let the 1056 poop out, rack, and add a good, sweet starter of the Red Star, as I like to give the secondary fermentation a good, strong start since the gravity at this point can be quite low. The secondary fermentation can be quite long, maybe 2 weeks minimum. The longer, the drier, at least in my opinion. Bill K. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 09:20:29 EST From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Subject: DON'T READ THIS if you don't want your boss to hear you laughing - -------------------- Mail Item Text Follows ------------------ To: I1010141--IBMMAIL I1218157--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: DON'T READ THIS if you don't want your boss to hear you laughing HOPPY HOLIDAYS TO Y'ALL Like most clubs, we get newsletters. I don't know if this is copyrighted:-),but I'm lifting it anyway from a newsletter from another region about a competition in still another region. So here it is, excerpts from a top ten list (items relating to particular clubs or non-public brewing personalities omitted). If you've heard these before, direct flames, as usual, to bgates at microsoft.com. TOP TEN REASONS WHY THE (deleted club) didn't win the (deleted competition) 9. Thought the wet t-shirt was supposed to go _inside_ the carboy. 8. No category for beers that suck. 6. The toilet bowl fermenter experiment was a miserable failure. 5. Judges constantly distracted by Fred Eckhardt mooning them. 4. Followed Charlie Papazian's advice to freely substitute black patent for pale malt. 3. The Brewing Stud was too busy "sparging the grist" (if you know what I mean) (RAP's note: that wasn't in Andy Patrick's sparge definition) 1. We don't need no stinkin' (award) because we're the (club), damnit| HOPPY HOLIDAYS AND A HOPPY BREW YEAR| Now go have a beer, Bob Paolino / Disoriented in Badgerspace /uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 09:25:13 -0500 (EST) From: Timothy Staiano <tstaiano at ultrix.ramapo.edu> Subject: I Have a yeast and don't know its name Greetings and salutations! Well, the subject heading sounds wierd but it's true. Now, I work at the Mtn. Valley Brew Pub in Suffern, NY; we just started getting a new yeast strain from Yeast Lab (according to brewer Jay Misson). He told me that it's a new strain from England and gave me about 8-10oz to take home (watta guy!). Now, to all of you biological/zymurlogical (?) graduate/postgraduate degree holders and all of those much more adept at brewing than I, any idea what it is? Post private or public if you think it's important. TIA Have a Hoppy! Tim Staiano tstaiano at ultrix.ramapo.edu (insert catchy slogan/ascii drawing here) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 94 09:52:20 EST From: "Harralson, Kirk" <kwh at roadnet.ups.com> Subject: Body, Red Dog In HBD 1609, Algis R Korzonas writes: >>Body is what I'm after here. Should I bother with higher mash >>temperatures? >Higher mash temperatures will decrease fermentability and subsequently >increase the body of a beer a little, but MOST of the body of a beer comes >from proteins not dextrins. I've wondered about this, but never had anything to back it up. Does this mean that I'm wasting my time adding Cara Pils (<= 1 pound) to my mash to get more body? When Papazian writes about using a "protein developing step mash", are these the proteins that add body, or are they used for some other reason? I have made my last few batches using Fix's 40-60-70 mash schedule. I think this has given me a significant improvement (over single step infusion) in the overall malt quality in my beers. I have heard of people adding a vanilla bean in the boil to increase mouth feel and smoothness, but I have never tried it. In HBD 1610, Bob Bessette writes: >I had the rather unpleasant experience this past weekend of trying the new >Red Dog beer made by Anheuser Busch. Can anyone really tell me that there is >any discernible difference between Red Dog and AB's other no-taste beverage >Budweiser? Also is there any discernible difference between Red Dog and Red >Wolf? This stuff doesn't even deserve to be called swill. I can't believe they are pricing this like a micro brew, but people around here are lining up to buy it. I think "red dog" is an interesting name for a beer, because it's football slang for an all-out blitz. Thats the term we used to use for people drinking as much beer as they possibly could with the single purpose of getting incredibly drunk, or blitzed. Coincidence??? I really don't think AB would do this intentionally, but you know those marketing guys :) Kirk Harralson Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 10:30:38 -0500 From: djt2 at po.cwru.edu Subject: Volume problems in a Cooler Mashtun Ken B writes about too much volume for step mashes in his cooler; I just switched from a 5 gallon Gott to a 14 gallon rectangular Coleman, mostly because I moved to 10 gallon batches. I used to have trouble getting the temperature up for mashout too, but really the extra volume and the geometry of the rectangular tun allows better stirring of the thinner grist. However, here are a couple of things to consider: 1) Why mashout? The only advantage I can see is improved consistency for the big brewers. I doubt I've ever made two batches alike, so stopping the enzymes on the clock seems of low importance. I used to do a 1 step (65C) mash and it was just fine, though I use a protein rest now. 2) Use a "decoction" to get the temp up. At the end of the enzyme rest, remove 2 quarts to a saucepan and boil it, then return it to the tun for mashout. Another note; I have been doing batch sparges after the suggestion (I think) of Geo. Fix. That is, thin grist, recirculate briefly, then collect the runnings quickly. Add sparge water to make a thin grist again, stir, recirculate briefly and collect again at maximum flow. Repeat once more, then sparge conventionally to the desired volume. The geometry of all (4 total) of the cooler manifolds I've seen still leaves pockets of poorly sparged grain. It is so disheartening to spend hours collecting runnings (terminating at 1.015) and then find you're dumping sweet grains into the compost bin! The batch process (in a couple of tries) has been faster and resulted in better yields for me than the slow conventional sparging. YMMV Dennis Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 09:43:57 -0600 (CST) From: "Allen L. Ford" <allen at darwin.sfbr.org> Subject: Proteins, dextrins and body In HBD 1609, Al Korzonas wrote: >MOST of the body of a beer comes from proteins not dextrins. Please quote your source(s) of this information. I would like to read more on this subject. Thanks. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Allen L. Ford <allen at darwin.sfbr.org> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-= Southwest Foundation for Biomedical Research San Antonio, Texas =-=-= Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 11:17:21 EST From: Bob Bessette <bessette at hawk.uicc.com> Subject: Red Dog HBDers, I want to correct a statement made in a recent HBD. I stated that Red Dog was made by Anheuser Busch. It is not. Red Wolf is made by AB. Red Dog is made by Plank Road Brewing which is Miller. I think the bottom line is that Red Dog is swill IMHO and in the opinion of everyone that emailed me. Red Wolf did not receive much higher reviews than Red Dog but I take it it does at least have some color to it. Just for the record, I did not buy the 6-pack of Red Dog. It was brought to my house by my brother-in-law who then, in turn, ended up drinking my home brew. Do you blame him? Bob Bessette (all-grainer...) bessette at uicc.com Systems Analyst Unitrode Integrated Circuits Merrimack, NH 03087 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 94 16:03:00 UTC From: m.bryson2 at genie.geis.com Subject: Homebrew Digest #1607 (Decembe I'd like someone to clear up something that I run across periodically in the HBD. People mention that a clogged blowoff tube in your carboy could lead to glass grenades( i.e., carboy explodes). Do people wire down their bungs like champagne bottles? Wouldn't the building CO2 pressure either blow out the bung or whatever's plugging the tube before the carboy went boom? I realize that the thickness of the glass in a carboy may not give an indication of just how sturdy the carboy is, but I'm having trouble visualizing this problem. On the other hand, I have had a fermentation lock bubble off a carboy before. This may be a trivial question, but it bugs me every time someone mentions it. TIA, Duke Nukem Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 11:38:05 -0400 (EDT) From: "Timothy P. Laatsch <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu>" <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu> Subject: Air Pump Filter? Hey HBDers, Season's Greetings! I recently acquired an aquarium pump for wort aeration and had a few questions regarding its use. 1. What type of filtering device is preferable? I am considering a sterilized, in-line filter of either cotton, glass wool, or a commercially available 0.22 um material. I want to keep out nasties without excessive wear on the pump---it's a major cheapo! 2. What is the best approach for introducing oxygen with this type of system? I thought that I would begin aeration as soon as I have chilled the wort, but I am unsure how long to continue the aeration process before pitching and how long it should continue after pitching. I recall some discussion on this topic in recent HBDs, but I can't recall which ones and I don't have an easy way of searching old ones by topic. Any help is greatly appreciated. Have a great holiday season! Bones ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Timothy P. Laatsch laatsch at kbs.msu.edu k'zoo, MI (aka Larryland) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Timothy P. Laatsch Graduate Student in Microbial Ecology Michigan State University Kellogg Biological Station Kalamazoo, MI laatsch at kbs.msu.edu Allow me to brew or give me death! +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 94 10:12:15 MST From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM Subject: Pitching Champagne Yeast / Iodophor / Starch Test Paul Baker writes: >On a related note: a few months back on RCB someone posted a raving review >of a >barley wine they had made using ale yeast and then pitching champagne yeast >after >the first racking. That is another yeast combination which may be worth >exploring. If >anyone has any experience out there please speak up... Well, I did this last year, out of necessity, not design. I had a barley wine that wasn't finishing, so I finally broke down and pitched a wine/champagne yeast (can't remember). It helped it along to completion and the bwine is doing fine. BTW, I don't feel this is necessary if you pitch a sufficiently large yeast population and aerate well - the ale yeast should do fine. On the subject of the bwine, it is over a year old now and it is remarkably stable. Overall, I have had very good luck with beer stability, but then I don't often do the George Fix stability test (ship the beer UPS in an uninsulated box to/from Texas in the middle of August - or something like that!). My beers do really well for months at a time in my basement and/or refrigerator. Maybe all that attention to HSA avoidance and sanitation does have a positive effect! The only drawback of course, is that if the beer is bad to start, it tastes just as bad 6 months later! ** Al K wrote: >For Iodophor, the recomended >concentration is one that provides 12.5 ppm of free iodine (see bottle >label for the proper dilution). I'm going to stick my long neck out here and say that this doesn't sound right. I believe that you are after 5 ppm of *free* iodine for sanitizing. This 5 ppm of *free* iodine can be obtained if you have 12.5 ppm of *titratable* iodine. Does this sound better? Maybe some of you chem pros out there can verify. Bottom line is, as Al says, follow the directions on the bottle. ** GRMarkel (who?) wrote: > I have been using the iodine test for conversion with mixed results. When I > mash with Klages grain, I usually can see a change (or lack of) in color > about 70% of the time. But when I mash with Pale Malt, I have yet to get a > positive test for conversion. Is there another method for testing for >conversion, > or do most of you work on blind faith (like me)??? The key to the iodine test is to collect only liquid. The husks and chunks of grain will test positive for starch. I've had good luck testing only the liquid portion of the mash. Have a Beery Merry Christmas (and a Hoppy New Beer!), Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 13:22:03 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: More on Sam Adams Steve Stroud helped to clarify the Sam Adams production locations in a recent post. I checked some of the bottles and it does state that the Honey Porter and the Cream Stout are made in Leiheigh Pa, and the Lagers were made in Pittsburgh, Pa. I must have gotten the Stroh and Lion breweries mixed up when I read of the location of the Honey porter last summer. Steve, any idea/comments on why AS dropped the FX Matt brewery from thier contracts? Jim Busch Colesville, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 12:58:46 -0500 (CDT) From: "KEVIN FONS Q/T BPR X7814 <KFONS at china.qgraph.com>" <KFONS at china.qgraph.com> Subject: Amaretto/ Irish Cream Recipes These are not beer recipes, however, it's the holiday's and they compliment any homebrew rather well. Happy Holidays, Kevin <KFONS at QGRAPH.COM> _________________________________________________ Amaretto 2 Cups Sugar 2 Cups Water 2 Cups Vodka 2 Cups Brandy 1 Ounce Almond Extract Combine sugar and water in a medium sauce pan, bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Stir in liquor and extract. Transfer to tightly covered bottles. Makes 6 Cups _________________________________________________ Irish Cream 1-3/4 Cups of your favorite liquor (Irish Whiskey, brandy,rum,burbon, scotch) 1 (14 oz.) Can Sweetened Condensed Milk (not evaporated) 1 Cup (1/2 pint) Whipping or Light Cream 4 eggs 2 tablespoons chocolate flavored syrup 2 teaspoons instant coffee 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 teaspoon almond extract In a 6 cup blender, at low speed, combine all ingredients. Blend until smooth. Store in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator, up to one month. Shake or stir before serving. _________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 94 14:26:56 EST From: MFOR8178 at URIACC.URI.EDU Subject: Rogue Saint Red Recipe I went to my Favorite watering hole last nite, and tried a new beer(for me), Rogue SAint Red Ale. It was delicious. Very highly hop aromatic bouquet So, Does anyone out there in cyBEERspace have any idea how to recreate this palatable delight? If so, send me a recipie(private Email,thanks) TIA ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Michael Formica See you all in MFOR8178 at URIACC.URI.EDU 57 Diana Drive CyBEERspace (401) 789-5833 Kingston, RI Programming Asst. 02881 HomeBrew Extrodinare Photorgasmergrapher "I still shroom every now and then just to clean the pipes out"-J. Garcia "Spread Seeds of Truth, Person by Person, Acre by Acre"- Ellis $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 94 14:11 CST From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Mill Review, Gears >From: "Dan Listermann, Cinci " <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> >I was a little perplexed to read Jack Schmidling's posting on HBD 1607. I was given a copy of the unedited text of the artical to review this past summer. > I had believed that Jack recieved the same copy. The copy seemed to be very "raw" as there were many grammatical errors and a redundant sentence. I even doubt that the editors had a chance to look at it closly. What you (and I and no doubt, Glatt) received officially from Zymurgy was the galley proof which resulted from weeks of bitching and numerous letters and harsh words about the original report submitted to Zymurgy by the club that conducted the "evaluation". After giving up on the normal channels, I wrote a personal letter to C.P, demanding to see the article before it was published or else! Although I never heard from C.P., I received my copy of the proof you describe within a week. Contrary to your feeling, it was severly edited but still far short of being objective. >Reading Jack's recent posting causes me to question a number of things. >If Jack would be so kind as to fax me ( 513-351-0610) a copy of the text he quotes, it could go a long way toward explaining his deep feelings of frustration with the Zymurgy artical. Unfortunately, sending you the report could compromise the source who was kind enough to make sure I knew what was going on there. You will just have to take my word for it or try to get a copy from someone in the club. All I can add is how nice it is to have friends in the right places. >From: Hauptbrau at aol.com >Subject: Malt Mill / Gear drive upgrade >Has anyone had any problems upgrading their "o" ring driven malt mill to a gear driven malt mill? I have... In the upgrade, I recieved only two gears with no instructions on how to install the gears. You certainly did not get them from me or you would have received instructions on how to do it. > The only way to install the gears was to cut off the shaft and bore the roller to fit a new longer shaft. You also would have been told that you need to exchange your roller for a gear compatible one. > The new gear was placed on the new shaft on one side and the other gear was placed on the other roller where the hand crank is attached. What really upset me was that a normal person could not upgrade their "o" ring malt mill without some exstensive machine work. I think this should be stressed to the homebrewers when buying an "o" ring drive malt mill. By the way, the gear driven malt mill works much better. The Gear Drive Option (GDO) requires an extended shaft on the "passive" roller. All adjustable mills have been shipped with extended shafts for oveer two years and adding gears in the field is a trivial job. The flyer that describes the MM clearly states that the GDO is only available on the adjustable mill as a standard option. On older mills or on fixed mills, we have to do a roller exchange to add the gears. My heart bleeds for all the trouble you went through and I think your dealer should be taken over your knee. They have all the info needed but if they don't read it, you are stuck holding the bag. js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 15:12:37 -0500 (CDT) From: "KEVIN FONS Q/T BPR X7814 <KFONS at china.qgraph.com>" <KFONS at china.qgraph.com> Subject: Water Analysis Help Can anyone create a WATER.FAQ, it would be very useful. This is the information I have so far, for Milwaukee, WI: Hardness 143ppm Ph 7.5ppm Chlorine 1.2ppm Calcium 96ppm Floride 1.1ppm Chlorides 16ppm Sodium 7ppm Does anyone have complete information and relevant analysis for Milwaukee? Which additional measurements should I request? What do the measurements mean to my brewing? What adjustments should I make, how and when? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Kevin Fons <KFONS at QGRAPH.COM> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 94 13:35:01 PST From: Steve Armbrust <Steve_Armbrust at ccm.co.intel.com> Subject: Peated Malt Text item: Text_1 A while back, there was some traffic concerning the Scottish peated malt that many homebrew shops now carry. People warned that it didn't impart the same flavor as smoking the grains yourself, and that a little goes a long way. I complained that even 1/4 pound in a five gallon batch of pale ale caused an overly-strong and unpleasant flavor. However, after about three months in the bottle, that same ale has mellowed out quite nicely. So, if you've experimented with the peated malt and were disappointed, be patient and set it aside for a while. It will definitely get better. Steve Armbrust in Portland, Oregon Steve_Armbrust at ccm.hf.intel.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 1994 17:10:43 -0500 From: TPuskar at aol.com Subject: Clogged funnels I also cursed the clogged screen on my 10 inch funnel until I figured a way to prevent it. I drape a nylon straining bag (notice I didn't say sparging bag ) :-) over the top of the funnel. When flow through the screen slows down, I just swoosh (another technical term) the bag a bit and flow picks up. Using this method, I leave most of the gooey trub in my brew pot which makes it easy to toss out. I reuse the nylon bag and toss it into my sanitizing solution with the other stuff. Works for me! Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Dec 94 15:16:00 GMT From: mlm01 at intgp1.att.com (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132) Subject: Farmers' Ale I have seen talk about Farmer's beer but couldn't remember if it was on HBD or CBS or judgenet, so I'll post to all 3. The recipe below comes from a book titled "Homemade Beverages by a Practical Brewer". The book was copyrighted 1919 by Western Distributers in Calgary, Alberta Canada. Farmers' Ale - ------------ Mash potatoes with 1/10 of its weight of ground barley malt. This mixed with some water and exposed in a water bath to a heat of 160 F, thence boiled with hops, cooled and fermented into beer. Mike Montgomery mlm01 at intgp1.att.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1611, 12/22/94