HOMEBREW Digest #1656 Mon 13 February 1995

Digest #1655 Digest #1657

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Sanitizing kegs (Al Pacifico)
  Sleepy yeasties (Ian the camel)
  Automated brewing (BILL MARKS)
  Belgian Trippels (Diane S. Put)
  Hail to Ale Competition (offpeak)
  5L taps/ftpmail (Ronald Moucka)
  BBC Hops (Ronald Moucka)
  BBC hops/another use for steam (Ronald Moucka)
  Gravity dispensing and Oxygen (Gilad Barak)
  RIMS Temperature Control (Evan Kraus)
  Wooden Casks (Terry Terfinko)
  Re: AHA/BJCP/HBWTA split (David Cutkosky)
  Rare Hops (Gary Bell)
  Re: Feeback Request: UK-Oriented Homebrewing (Tel +44 784 443167)
  My ESB (Jim Busch)
  Re: Belgian Dubbel (John DeCarlo              )
  Re: Water Adjustments (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  AHA and the BJCP (Mark A. Stevens)
  Re: removing rubber (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Belhaven recipe (Jim Cave)
  RIMS Temperature Control (Jeff Berton)
  Preparation of Isinglass (Jim Cave)
  RE: Grain FAQ, Cloudy Beer Problem (Jim Dipalma)
  Aeration in 2ndary/Screw-top Buckets/ (" Patrick G. Babcock")
  Pressure Relief Valves for Soda Kegs, Stirring (Waldon, Tracy )
  Newsgroups? (Scott Howe)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 9 Feb 1995 12:46:35 -0800 (PST) From: Al Pacifico <pacifico at u.washington.edu> Subject: Sanitizing kegs Since there's been a lot of discussion about sanitizing Cornelius kegs lately, I wanted to share an approach I've used and see what people think. I take a 5 gallon keg and add about two gallons of boiloing water, then seal it. I shake it up real hard and let it sit on the floor a while. I then might flip it and rest it on its top to let the boiling water contact the lid and seal for a while. Then I attack a quick disconnect to the "in" connector while it's inverted to drain some boiling water through that connector. The shaking of the keg generates steam and pressure within, so the water comes out pretty quickly. I use this technique to sanitize the pressure relief valve and the "out" connector and siphon tube. I've never had any problems with my kegs using this technique, although if the boiling water sits in there a long time, the rubber boot at the bottom smells kind of funny. Anyone tried this or had problems with damaging kegs or inadequately sanitizing them? al pacifico university of washington Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 1995 16:48:55 -0600 (CST) From: Ian the camel <ianq at owlnet.rice.edu> Subject: Sleepy yeasties Had a quick question for the hefty stout-makers. Was making a stout with some of the following: 6 lbs dark malt extract, 4 amber, 17.6 oz. turbinado and a pound of treacle. All in all, starting gravity was about 1.110 (Oy!) and, after a little vigorous fermentation with Irish Wyeast, it settled to around 1.047. Upon tasting, it's still pretty sweet, and presumably the high alcohol content made life unhappy for the poor little yeasties (that'll teach me to use so many sugars). Pitched in some addtional Wyeast sweet mead in a honey starter, and not much happened (after two or three days it was still 1.047). Any suggestions? I want to stray from champagne yeast because it might rob the treacle of its flavor. The local brew store suggested blue lalvin yeast in an apple juice starter. Anyone have any suggestions? Furthermore, does anybody have any idea why apple juice is allegedly so effective? Thanks muchly. Ian Quigley (ianq at owlnet.rice.edu) Baker 151, Rice University Houston, Texas 77005-1891 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 09 Feb 95 18:56:00 -0400 From: bill.marks at nccbbs.com (BILL MARKS) Subject: Automated brewing Norm Pyle's luke warm response to the idea of automating an all grain system got me thinking. Can it be done - not should it - but can it. I'm going to try it just for the fun of it. I'm going to automate it using a 386 and a couple of ADCs and relay boards. That part is simple at least in terms of locating hardware that will work. I already have the pumps and temperature sensors and a gas fired recirculation system using a Superb propane burner that I can fine adjust to raise the mash temperature at 1.5 - 2 deg F per minute. I have even got good, consistent numbers for the overshoot so I know when to quit pouring the BTUs to it and hit the temperature I want. The problem: valves. I need a source for solenoid or motor operated valves in the 3/8 inch pipe size range. I'm going to nedd 8 or so. AQny thoughts out there in HBD land? E-mail is fine or answer in the digest and keep the thread alive. Obviously, I would like to hear from anybody that has actually automated a 3 vessel, 15 gallon system. TIA Bill Marks Portsmouth, RI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 95 18:24:21 PST From: diput at eis.calstate.edu (Diane S. Put) Subject: Belgian Trippels >From *Don* Put: Dave Pike <davep at cirrus.com> asks: >What's the HBD's concensus on the best sugar for brewing Belgian style >Trippels? Does corn sugar work ok, or does an invert or candi sugar >work better? I just brewed a tripple, trippel, or triple (I have found it spelled different ways in different publications, although the spellings with double "p" seem to be more common) and about 13.5% of the grain bill was sugar. Rajotte, in the _Belgian_Ale_ book, states that you can use "up to about 25% of total extract" when brewing this style. Here's what I added for a 10 gallon batch: 1 lb. Clear candi sugar (which I'm told is just regular sucrose) 1 lb. Medium candi sugar (it's nice to have most of my family in Belgium!) This is a combination of carmelized sugar and invert sugar in almost a 50/50 mixture according to the spec sheets I have from Candico, Belgium's premiere producer of sugar products. 2 lbs. Invert sugar made using Jeff Frane's recipe from Zymurgy. Thanks, Jeff! This was added to the wort obtained from 26lbs. of Belgian Pils malt. The resulting wort (11.5 gallons post boil) was 1.088 SG. I pitched a large, healthy yeast starter (this is very important for these high- gravity brews) and it fermented out to 1.010 at 60F. I tasted it tonight and it's everything a trippel should be: clean, fairly neutral tasting (none of the higher alcohols that really don't belong here), a slighty sweet finish, good mouth feel, and a lingering warm feeling from the alcohol (about 10.23% by volume). It's extremely smooth for being so strong. I plan on conditioning it for a couple months at 50F (my cellar temp right now), then pitching fresh yeast at bottling time. This is extremely important when you want to reproduce the lively nature of the Belgian high-gravity ales. It's also good practice for any high-gravity beers. Hope this helps, don (diput at eis.calstate.edu until Feb. 20th) (dput at cello.gina.calstate.edu after Feb. 20th) - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 1995 22:18:09 -0500 From: offpeak at aol.com Subject: Hail to Ale Competition I have a story to relate about a recent AHA Club-Only competition. I am pretty steamed, but would like to get others' opinions. A brewer in our club, The Prairie Homebrewing Companions of Fargo, North Dakota, had a pale ale pass the club gauntlet, and be entered in the Hail to Ale competition in Florida. Today, he got his score sheets back: two recognized judges scored the IPA 47 and 47 in the first round. This ale did not place in the second (final) round! After calling a couple of other members of the club, he called James Spence, at the AHA, to see what kind of scores the first, second, and third place finishers had. The scores were 44, 37, and 36, respectively. Reportedly, Spence said "high scorers do not always win this type of competition". There apparently was some kind of second/final round, but apparently no scores were given; it was some kind of perception thing. If the story above is accurate, which I believe it is, what is the use of entering this type of contest? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 15:43:41 GMT From: rmoucka at omn.com (Ronald Moucka) Subject: 5L taps/ftpmail Fellow Brewers, Two quick questions: I would like to obtain a second 5L mini keg tap for parts. Does anyone out ther have one they've given up on? I'd be willing to pay a few bucks for one, especially if the tapping part is still functional (I don't care if the CO2 end isn't). Secondly, can someone help me with ftpmail? I've tried every syntax I can think of, but can't seem to get it to work. My access to the net is through a BBS, and is not "real time" so I'm forced to use the ftpmail method. I'm trying to get a DOS copy of SUDS. I know the archives have moved, but do the archives include only back issues of HBD, or does it include all the FAQ's, programs, etc? Sorry this isn't directly beer related, but I've run out of options. Many TIA .:. :.:. /|~~~~| (_| D | | B | Ron Moucka, Brewmaster `----' DayBar Brewing, Ltd. "It's not so much an indication of our legal structure as it is a reflection of our abilities." rmoucka at omn.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 17:54:06 GMT From: rmoucka at omn.com (Ronald Moucka) Subject: BBC Hops Brew Buds, About 3 months ago I sent Jim and the good folks at Boston Brewing Co (tm) a check for $12.00 for a pound of the illusive Mittlefrueh hops rumored to be available to homebrewers. Although the check has not been cashed, I never heard a word from them. Has anyone else out there tried this and received anything from them? Unfortunately, I don't seem to be able to put my hands on their address or phone. Can anyone help me here? Am I just a chump or what? .:. :.:. /|~~~~| (_| D | | B | Ron Moucka, Brewmaster `----' DayBar Brewing, Ltd. "It's not so much an indication of our legal structure as it is a reflection of our abilities." rmoucka at omn.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 16:27:17 GMT From: rmoucka at omn.com (Ronald Moucka) Subject: BBC hops/another use for steam Brewers, The day I posted my question about what ever happened to the Boston Beer Co hop offer, I received a calendar from BBC with their address and phone on the first page. Cool daily calendar with a beer quote or trivia for each day of the year. They can be had free of charge by writing BBC at The Brewery, 30 Germania St., Boston, MA 02130 or call 617 522- 3400. Say what you will about Jim Koch and his business practices, they make a decent beer and if you can overlook the blatant commercialism of their freebees, they are nice. Anyway, as for the hops, they are still available. According to the person answering the phone at BBC, they are waiting for a large enough number of orders to make a bulk mailing. One pound of Mittlefreuh hops (pellets I think) for $12. Send a check to the above address. My thanks to those of you who answered my post. Hope this answers any questions. On another note, I've noticed a lot of talk about steam lately. I have another use for steam that was suggested by a member of my local brew club. I've been using it for a few years now with no ill effects. I use steam to clean my kegs. I picked up a tea pot at a second hand store for 25 cents. Take a drilled rubber stopper (#8 I think) and insert a short piece of copper tubing (4"). Now attach a 4- 6' piece of hose to the copper tube and a liquid disconnect on the other end. Now simply insert the stopper in the tea pot and connect the liquid disconnect to the keg. Make sure you attach a gas disconnect to the other side of the keg to vent out the steam. Put some water in your tea pot and boil. The steam will sanitize the kegs and poppets in 15-20 minutes. Make sure your system is open or the pressure will build up and blow your stopper across the room in no time. Takes an hour or two to cool and you will want to drain the condensation from the keg. I've never had a contamination problem using this method. YMMV All disclaimers apply. Brew On, .:. :.:. /|~~~~| (_| D | | B | Ron Moucka, Brewmaster `----' DayBar Brewing, Ltd. "It's not so much an indication of our legal structure as it is a reflection of our abilities." rmoucka at omn.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 12:08:04 --300 From: gilad at orbotech.co.il (Gilad Barak) Subject: Gravity dispensing and Oxygen In HBD1654 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> said: >[snip] > you can always gravity tap the keg, however, you will be introducing > oxegen, and therefore should probably finish it off within 5 days before > the beer spoils. IMHO oxygen has nowhere to come from because this is a sealed container with CO2 in the headspace. What will happen is that with gravity dispensing the pressure will simply drop and the beer will get less carbonated, but not oxygenated. When beer is dispensed by gravity the headspace grows and the pressure falls (Dalton`s law - Pressure * Volume = constant). The dissolved CO2 in the beer will diffuse to the headspace until equilibrium is reached (Henry`s law) so what actually goes into the increased headspace is CO2. The pressure in the headsoace will rise but will be lower than at the beginning and the beer will now be less carbonated. It will not spoil, it will simply go flat. - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gilad Barak - Israel gilad at orbotech.co.il - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 95 6:54:11 EST From: Evan Kraus <ejk at bselab.bls.com> Subject: RIMS Temperature Control With all the talk of AI or PID control for say a RIMS system by a PC. Has anyone written any code to say read an A to D device such as that shown in the Jan/Feb issue of BT and take those readings and say pulse an electronic relay or triac and keep the mash temp within a desired range and at selected times raise said temp up to complete a mashing schedule ? Well if your out there I am interested and can build the components required to interface with the I/O of a pc. I already use a RIMS and love it but I am interested in further automating my mashing procedures What I am looking for is a program that will read an A/D device and is able to pulse a triac etc. with the ability for me to put in the times and temperatures for a at least of 4 rests and to possibly increase the speed of the pump during the move up in temp from one rest to another. I would also suppose that there are others out there that would also be interested in this !! Evan Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 95 8:20:09 EST From: Terry Terfinko <terfintt at ttown.apci.com> Subject: Wooden Casks John Dunlop asks: >Can anyone provide me with addresses or phone numbers of USA < >suppliers of wooden casks and supplies in the 3 to 5 gallon range.< The Brewlab carries some unique items for casking beer. They have 3 to 15 gallon oak casks. They are putting a new catalog together and will soon have an 800 number for mail-order. No affiliation... etc. The Brewlab 1039 Hamilton Street Allentown, PA 18101 Phone: 610-821-8410 Cheers, Terry Terfinko - terfintt at ttown.apci.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 08:45:45 -0500 From: davidc at interaccess.com (David Cutkosky) Subject: Re: AHA/BJCP/HBWTA split In HBD #1654 (Norman Pyle) npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM writes: >I for one, can't help but see this AHA/BJCP/HBWTA split as a power struggle. >If so, this can do homebrewing no good at all. I'd like to hear some >discussion from current BJCP judges on this. What's going on here, folks? Norm: This is currently being *hotly* debated on the beer judge digest. This probably isn't the correct forum to be discussing the political impacts of organizations in the brewing community. The header information from the digest is included below. See the archive site for past copies of the digest and the reaction of respected judges. THE BEER JUDGE DIGEST digest submissions: judge at synchro.com administrative requests: judge-request@ synchro.com send cancellations & rank updates to the administrative address messages sent to the wrong address will be ignored FTP Archives: guraldi.hgp.med.umich.edu in /pub/judge WWW Archives: http://guraldi.hgp.med.umich.edu/Beer/Judge Gopher Archives: guraldi.hgp.med.umich.edu Editor: Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> Archivist: Spencer Thomas <spencer.w.thomas at med.umich.edu> - -- David, St. Charles, IL Dammit Jim, I'm a homebrewer davidc at interaccess.com not a doctor! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 07:23:46 -0800 From: gbell at ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell) Subject: Rare Hops I dropped by to visit a friend who runs a small brewery yesterday and discovered a new hop. It's called Columbus, and is *very* impressive. It's a high alpha hop (13.5%) but still retains great aroma qualities. I think it's derived from Cascade (?), but it has greater complexity of aroma - it has a faint spiciness that reminds me of Hallertauer. My buddy had just used it for aroma in his IPA and it was stunning! I assume it will be awhile before we see it in the homebrew catalogues, though! Cheers, Gary - -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gary Bell "Laxo, non excrucio, poto cervisia domestica." Lake Elsinore, CA (909) 674-3637 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 13:28:49 +0000 From: Brian Gowland <B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk> (Tel +44 784 443167) Subject: Re: Feeback Request: UK-Oriented Homebrewing In HBD 1654, "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt" <FLEMINGKR at afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil> wrote: > > I've now seen two of your HBD posts and assume you haven't seen > any responses. I'm replying publicly because I would like HBD > reader's thoughts here, too. > My reason for multiple postings were, partially based on the reasons behind the original request. I, as a UK reader of HBD, will often only scan quickly through HBD if I am short of time. If most of the postings appear to be on subjects that are not applicable to me then I will not spend too much time on any particular issue of the digest. I occasionally miss interesting posts this way. My fears were that other UK brewers may do the same and hence the second posting to catch anybody that slipped through the net (no pun intended). :) As far as response is concerned, I have had a fair number of responses, mostly from UK readers of HBD and r.c.b but a few from the US and Canada. Some of the non-UK repsonses have been simple "yes" votes but others have expressed worries similar to your own and for similar reasons. > > ...much if not most of our supplies come from the the UK, as did the > Sex Pistols, I believe. > Don't you go blaming me for the Sex Pistols - that was Malcolm MacClaren's fault. :) > > So....although I feel strongly you should have your own news > group if you want one (and shouldn't have to answer to anyone > to put one in place), I for one would hate to lose insight into whatever it > is you're doing with beer over there. I don't mind > subscribing to another news group and don't see what harm it > could do--but I'm a USENET neophyte. > This is one of the sentiments expressed by the non-UK respondees. Firstly, it is not our intention to take a "we're having a party and you're not invited" approach. Although there is a complication that uk. prefixed groups may not be widely available outside of the UK, this is, I understand, not always going to be the case. I believe that at least some of these groups are available outside of the UK which shows that non-UK site administrators may well be open to accepting the group if there is sufficient interest in their specific content. So why propose a service which may not, in the short term at least, be available to some of the people who may be interested? Basically, uk. groups are not part of Usenet and so do not have the same problems associated with setting them up (request for votes, minimum numbers etc.). They are likened to the alt. category in that they are less formal and less complicated to set up (although there are some small formalities). Judging by response that I have had, there are nowhere near enough people for the idea of a Usenet group to be taken seriously but this sort of issue is not considered so important for uk. goups. I and one or two other UK net-brewers have been talking on and off about the desire for UK-specific services since sometime last year and, it is not only me who feels strongly that the heavy leanings of HBD and r.c.b toward non-UK issues ultimately dilutes the usefulness of these areas to us. My discovery of the uk. prefixed groups and the relative ease of access to them is the result of the requests for feedback on this subject. If it turned out that there were only one or two of us that felt this way then it would have shown that it was us who had the problem. As it turns out, it would appear that a good number of UK net-brewers feel the same way and so my request seems to have been justified. Whether or not a new group would be a success or not is another matter but the facts would indicate that we UK people need to sort something out between us to enhance, not replace, what HBD and r.c.b can do for us all. On an overall note, it is a sad fact that the UK HB world is nowhere near as advanced or progressive as that in the US. This doesn't mean that there aren't HBers out there who don't want help or contact with other UK homebrewers. What it means is that there are limited resources available to UK HBers where they can get that help or make that contact. It is as a result of these facts that some of us feel that a UK specific service would strengthen our HB world and be a positive thing all round. There are one or two other issues which are on the cards and may come about if we can get our acts together - assuming that any of these things happen then we will keep you all posted. Cheers, Brian Gowland Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 11:01:11 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: My ESB Ive got a lot of requests for my ESB recipe, so Ill post it. Its not Fullers ESB, but on an engine, its close enough! Munton & Fison Pale ale malt Dewolf Munich 3-5% Dewolf CaraVienne 3-5% Dewolf CaraMunich 3-5% OG 13.2, FG 3.2 Kettle hops, 70g Styrian Goldings, 60 min 15g Styrian Goldings, 25 min Finish 36g East Kent Goldings, 0 min 36g East Kent Goldings, dry hop Note these are whole hops (5%), reduce if you use pellets. Mash 148F 10 min, raise to 152-4F for 45, raise to 170, lauter. Use a British yeast like Wyeast 1098/1968. I actually brew this to an cast out OG of 16.3P and dilute to 13.2P. If you brew a regular version, then go low or skip the Munich malt. I dont list pounds of malt, since this will vary with each brewers system. - -- Jim Busch busch at mews.gsfc.nasa.gov "DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER!" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 95 11:08:03 EST From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org> Subject: Re: Belgian Dubbel DCB2%OPS%DCPP at bangate.pge.com wrote: >Paul had asked if anyone had a recipe for Belgian Dubbel. >I used this recipe when I did my first mashing. It came out dark and quite >strong. Since the bitterness is rather low it has a deceptive sweetness >about it that masks it true strength and a lot of body. Know your limit<g>. >For 5 gallons (US) use: > >9.5 lbs pale malt >4 oz. Crystal malt (20 deg L) >4 oz. Brown malt After tasting many Belgian Dubbels, and brewing the the Belgian Special B malt, I suggest that you really need at least 4 oz. of this (if not 8 oz or more) for a more authentic version. John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 95 11:09:33 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: Water Adjustments Pulsifer at aol.com wrote about Water Adjustments: > I added gypsum. The pH was still high. A common misconception. Gypsum, in and of itself, does NOT reduce pH. It adds calcium, which reacts with compounds *in the grain* to produce acid (phytic acid, as I recall). So your pH measurements are really irrelevant unless you do them in a mash. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 11:08:23 -0500 From: stevens at stsci.edu (Mark A. Stevens) Subject: AHA and the BJCP In HBD 1654, Lee Bussy (leeb at southwind.net) writes: > I have seen a couple of posts from people regarding the AHA's > pullout of the BJCP. > First of all, the thread should never have been started here. After > this I suggest we keep it to the JudgeNet where it belongs. > Second, It doesn't concern the average homebrewer, but it does > suggest a general trend in the AHA towards a kinder, gentler > dictatorship! Homebrewers who are not judges and don't read JudgeNet should at least be aware that the AHA has chosen to abandon the BJCP. They should know that the BJCP continues to exist independently of AHA. They should not be surprised when the AHA rolls out an "alternative" (i.e., controlled by AHA with no input from homebrewers) judging program and they should not be surprised to hear about growing discontent with AHA in the homebrewing community. Yeah, JudgeNet is the best place for the discussion to continue, but Average Joe Homebrewer should at least be aware that the issues exist so that he or she can look for the discussion if they're interested and will at least know to take whatever Zymurgy prints about this issue with a ton of salt. Cheers! - ---Mark Stevens stevens at stsci.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 95 11:04:12 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: removing rubber Algis R. Korzonas wrote about removing rubber: > I suppose you could use fine steel wool, but I believe you would > have to use *stainless* steel wool (if you can find it). I recall reading > somewhere that regular steel wool should not be used on stainless steel. How about a "ScotchBrite" pad? It's sort of "plastic steel wool". I bet it would do the trick nicely. =Spencer in Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 9:32:28 -0800 (PST) From: Jim Cave <CAVE at PSC.ORG> Subject: Belhaven recipe There have been several requests for the Belhaven (export) recipe. This one is the one that is the export (i.e. bottled version). Wheeler and Protz have the actual brewers formulations. Note: Most of you will find that you will get probably 20% more extract from this recipe than they indicate. You will want to adjust for your systems. The percentages given include the sugar added (i.e. 86% pale, 2.5% crystal, 1.5% black, and 10% maltose). From: Wheeler and Protz, 1993, Brew your own Real Ale at home. ISBN-85249-113-2 CAMRA, St Albans. Belhaven, 80/ Scottish Cask-Conditioned Ale OG: 1.0415 Mash: Pale malt: 3,900 g (86%) Crystal Malt: 115 g (2.5%) Black Malt: 65 g 1.(1.5%) "In the copper" Maltose syrup:450 g B.C. Bramlings: 23 g (start of boil) Fuggles Hops: 31 g (start of boil) Goldings: 12 g (last 15 minutes) Irish Moss: 1 tsp (last 15 minutes) Mash temp 65 C Mash Liquor 10 litres Mash time 90 minutes Boil time 2 hours Alcohol content 4.2% Final Gravity 1.010 Bitterness 28 EBU Final Volume: 23 litres The extract version calls for replacing the pale malt with 2,850 g of non-diastatic, light coloured exctact. For the mash, Protz in his other book (Real Ale drinkers almanac-CAMRA) quotes the same percentages as above but instead of Maltose syrup, he quotes liquid sugar. Personally I don't think it matters. I think you'll have to adjust all ingredients proportionally on this one to match your brewing system. Enjoy! Jim Cave Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 13:16:15 -0500 (EST) From: jeff344 at voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov (Jeff Berton) Subject: RIMS Temperature Control Kirk writes: >I argue that >because the period of the entire wort circulation cycle is >small (~8 gallons of mash liquor pumped at ~7GPM) my temp >reading *is* the temp, for all practical purposes. What we >don't know (among many other things :->) is whether we can >actually pump that fast thru the grain bed or not. TBD. I think you'll find that to be true. In my RIMS, I have several thermistors mounted throughout the system. When I'm pumping at my maximum rate, I can't tell the difference in temperature between the thermistor in the mash tun and the thermistor at the exit of my 1000W electric heater. The tun is insulated, and my magnetic-drive pump is rated at 5.5 gpm at zero head. I'm sure there is some friction head loss when pumping through a grain bed, but my eye can't tell the difference in the pumping rate. I'll have to measure it next time I brew. Incidentally, the only time I do not pump at the maximum rate is when I'm sparging. I first tried sparging with the pump off, but the tun developed temperature gradients throughout the process. Now when I sparge, I take advantage of the basic RIMS concept and I pump at a reduced rate (with the heater slightly on) so that I do not disturb the grain bed. Donbrew writes: >Tried dimmer, don"t work at all. You do need the flicker effect of the >controller on the heater. Full power on at any time is death to enzymes in my >experience. For those of you, like myself, who are intimidated by building complicated control circuits, I use a dimmer with success. It's rated at 1000W (the same as my electric immersion heater) and cost about $20. Any hardware store will carry them. As I approach a rest temperature, I turn the dimmer down. It's easy to find the equilibrium setting required to maintain a temperature. I can even walk away for fifteen minutes at a time without worrying about straying from my desired temperature. And since the heater exit temperature is virtually the same as my mash temperature, I don't think I'm denaturing any enzymes or scorching the liquor. I think a good pump is essential to a RIMS' success. Here's a question for everyone: at 1000W, I can heat my particular mash at about one degree Fahrenheit per minute. Is there any information that would indicate this is too slow? To compensate for the elevated beta amylase reactions, I suppose I could simply target a higher starch conversion temperature, but I haven't worried about it. Some large breweries' mash tuns are heated, rather than infused with hot water. What is a typical heating rate in such a brewery? Also, rather than using a dimmer switch, has anyone tried to control their electric heaters using one of those variable time-delay solid state relays? They just turn the current on and off at intervals set by a knob, and, from the heater's point of view, would have much the same effect as a dimmer switch. And since dimmer switch prices rise dramatically with capacity, I would think such a relay would be better suited for controlling heaters greater than 1000W. - -- Jeff Berton, Aeropropulsion Analysis Office, NASA Lewis Research Center jeff344 at voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 10:32:18 -0800 (PST) From: Jim Cave <CAVE at PSC.ORG> Subject: Preparation of Isinglass There has been some discussion about the correct use of Isinglass. Isinglass is a very good fining and I believe that it is the best one to use in cask-conditioned ales. It does, however, require some additional preparation which includes: rehydration, addition of acid blend, use of a blender, and refrigeration. Apparently, if the temperature of Isinglass exceeds 20 C it will become inactive. Also, I have found that if it is frozen, it will also become inactive. Wheeler (Home Brewing, The CAMRA guide) states that preparation will require blending, preferably one hour. He does not mention the use of acid blend. However, he does indicate the appropriate quantity to be used: 50 milligrams per litre of beer to be fined. This works out to about 1.25 g per 25 litres, or about 1 gram per 5 U.S. Gal. It should be mixed into a small quantity of beer prior to adding to the main batch. Terry Foster (Pale Ale, Classic beer series) indicates he uses 5 grams of dry Isinglass and 5 grams tartaric acid (or winemakers acid blend) and one gram of sodium metabisulphite to one pint (English?) of water. This is shaken 3-4 times a day for 4 days. He uses 6 oz of this to 5 gallons of beer. (Note, this is a slightly higher quantity). I use the following procedure: 2.5 grams of Isinglass, 2 grams of ascorbic acid, 500 ml water. Stir and let sit in fridge for a couple of hours. Blend with a Braun hand blender for a minute. Return to fridge. Blend when you feel like it a few times more. There should be no chunks visible. Ready for use in 12 hours. Shake gently before using. Store in stoppered bottle (Grolsch bottle is good). Use a third of this solution (167 mls) for each cornelius keg. Beer is bright in 24 hours. You should try and be as sanitary as possible when doing this. What I am not sure about is the precise pH that is required. I'm guessing. There may be someone on the 'Net who knows. Vancouver water is the softest in the world (< 5 ug hardness) and is slightly acid. Therefore, there is no buffering going on. Jim Cave Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 95 10:59:56 EST From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Subject: RE: Grain FAQ, Cloudy Beer Problem Hi All, In HBD #1654, GRMarkel asks: >A couple of months ago someone submitted a summary of grains and their uses. >I thought it was going to be entered as a FAQ - grains but after searching >the sanford site I could not locate it. If someone could tell me what >number(s) of HBD this summary appeared in, it would be a great help. I saved those articles, and have them online. In the interest of conserving bandwidth, I won't re-post them here. Anyone who would like a copy, send private email to the address below. Ken Schroeder writes about a problem with cloudy beer: >For the past three or four months my beers have been coming out cloudy. Even >several weeks of cold conditioning does not clear the beer. Cloudiness can occur from many causes, each of which requires different treatments. >I recirculate the wort as I raise >the mash to strike, allow the grain bed to set and start a long sparge (1 to >1.5 hrs.) once the wort runs clear (subjective term). ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The wort from your lauter tun should run very clear after a few minutes of recirculation. If it doesn't, you likely have either a filtration problem, or you're getting unconverted starch in the wort. Check the crush, the husks should be nearly intact. If they are shredded, the filtration provided by the grain bed will suffer, and you will have difficulty getting the wort to run clear. As for the unconverted starch, sacc. rest temperatures of 60C-68C are reasonable, but you did not mention how long these temps are held, or whether you checked for complete conversion. Also, check your grain bed temp, it should be under 170F. >My mash usually sits at about >5.4 or 5.3 pH during the mash and dropps to 4.8 to 5.0 during sparge. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is a sign that the sparge water is over-acidified. A good rule of thumb here is to acidify the sparge water to 5.7-5.8 or so, so that the pH in the tun will *rise* from ~5.2-5.4 at the beginning of the sparge, but still be somewhere under 6.0 at the conclusion (excess tannin extraction becomes a problem if the pH rises above 6.0). Check the pH of the wort just prior to the boil, it should be roughly 5.7-5.8 or so. A pH of 5.0 or less, which yours is, inhibits the coagulation of proteins, you will not get a good hot break. The resulting high level of long chain proteins in the beer causes both haze and stability problems. If the beer is clear at room temperature but becomes cloudy when chilled, then you have a chill haze problem. Rehydrate 1 TBS of Irish moss a few hours before the boil, and add it for the last 15 minutes. Fining with polyclar at the end of secondary fermenation is also effective against chill haze. Finally, there are some strains of yeast that have notoriously poor flocculation characteristics (Wyeast 1098 English, e.g.). I've had wort that was crystal clear after trub seperation turn extremely cloudy after pitching with 1098. Two weeks of fermentation and racking to secondary does nothing to improve the clarity, I routinely have to fine with gelatin when using this yeast. Hope this helps, Jim dipalma at sky.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 15:06:49 EST From: " Patrick G. Babcock" <usfmchql at ibmmail.com> Subject: Aeration in 2ndary/Screw-top Buckets/ *** Resending note of 02/10/95 13:50 * Man's mind, stretched by a new idea, never goes back to its * * original dimension. - Oliver Wendell Holmes * Subject: 2ndary Aeration/Immersion chiller/Screwtop Buckets/Cloramine/BJCP -=> In HBD #1654, Cap'n Kirk asks about aeration during fermentation (that's effectively what dropping the beer is, right?)... Oxidation of the beer, and the associated 'off' flavors, are the traditional concerns (in the U.S, anyway). This is not intended as a flame against Brian; just a simple statement! I was also intrigued by his post regarding dropping the beer. Perhaps we've been too damned concerned with something that isn't going to have a great effect on our beer? (Another occurrence of those 'experts' spouting their opinions, I would imagine?) Anyway, I, too, intend to try this dropping of the beer on my next British ale (superstition will prevent me from doing it on anything else until I prove it out on that for which it was intended...) -=> in HBD #1654, Eamonn McKernan asks about stirring the wort while immersion chilling goes to work... Yes! Stirring the hot wort (gently) to move it around the chiller coils will improve efficiency. Actually, when I was an immersion-type guy, I used to do it by moving the chilling coils around in the wort (had about 3 inches in any given direction...). Did this on and off (figure in the boredom factor, and the intense boredom factor) during the cooling. Never resulted in an infection. -=> In HBD #1653 someone asks for screw-top buckets for less than a fortune... B&B brewing has screw-tops for $10.50 + shipping; $9.75 each for two or more. B&B Brewing 1-800-834-5459... ...ask for a catalog. (BTW: I'm not affiliated...) -=> Dean A. Pulsifier asks about chloramine removal... I may have posted this here before (so many forums, so little memory...), but I believe chloramines can be removed through the use of activated charcoal filtration. I achieve this through an Omni Whole House filter (BTW: this is the basis for the Filter Store's beer filter. It and the necessary conversion fittings can be had for a lot less than their filter. The 5 micron cartridges? If you make your's out of the same size unit as their's, I assume you could buy the cartridges from the Filter Store...). Anyway, my house water also smells and tastes a lot better since installing this puppy. Change the cartridge about once every six months (depends on your usage)... -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Thermal barrier. Cross at your own risk. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- -=> And, also in HBD 1654, Lee Bussey preaches that ol' time religion - Oh, ye lowly ones... Well, Lee, I'm sorry you feel that we are not worthy of discussing this topic here. Personally, I've met several judges who aren't worth a cracked carboy. (Must have cheated on their tests, hey?) On the other hand, I've met more who were very knowledgeable, and actually helpful. (You seemed to fit this category, as do the majority of judges.) However, about every judge I've ever met demonstrates that same arrogance, at some point or other. Granted, you've studied, demonstrated your knowledge on a grueling test, and sat in judgement over many peoples' brewing endeavors. You've probably bolstered a few; probably crushed a few. I'm happy for you. Just remember - Homebrewers aren't for judges - in fact, the converse is true: judges are for homebrewers. Without people willing to have the fruits of their efforts scrutinized, beer judges would find life tediously boring. Yeah, you've made a 'sacrifice' to try and help us meek little brewers out. Doesn't mean we have to appreciate it... Sorry for the flaming, but this is a democracy. We can talk about anything we like. (Cordiality? Public flammables beget public flames. I'm sure I won't be alone...) Brewing with napalm in Detroit.... P.G. Babcock Return to table of contents
Date: Fri Feb 10 15:35:30 1995 From: <TWALDON at fcc.gov> (Waldon, Tracy ) Subject: Pressure Relief Valves for Soda Kegs, Stirring Dave Pike asks: < Does anyone know of, or use, automatic pressure release valves while fermenting in corny kegs? Brian North of North Brewery Supplies in Milwaukee carries just such an item. I don't have the address or phone with me at work, but he should have an ad in Zymurgy or Brewing Techniques. The item comes with or without a gauge and I believe it runs $15 to $25. I have not used one, but have had my eye on it myself. One note of caution when fermenting in 5 gallon kegs is that the decrease in the ratio of bottom surface area to volume may cause a reduction in diacetyl pickup as fermentation ends. Reportedly the problem is much less pronounced when using 10 gallon cornelius kegs. Certainly the yeast strain is particularly important here. Eamonn McKernan asks: < I'm looking for your vote on immersion chillers: To stir or not to stir? Stir. If you are using an immersion chiller the lid will already be cracked open a bit for the hoses. I find this to be plenty of room for the handle of my large SS spoon to stick out. I don't stir for the first 10 - 15 minutes (until wort gets down to about 120 F) because I'm lazy. Although I could argue that it's to reduce hot-side aeration. I then just sort of pump the blade of the spoon up and down to get some movement of the wort. If your tap water is as warm as it is in N. Virginia, then the stirring is the only way to go. No problems with infections and unlikely to occur since lid stays on the pot. Although a healthy dose of yeast doesn't hurt either. Tracy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 1995 11:42:45 -0800 From: Scott Howe <howe at appmag.com> Subject: Newsgroups? Greetings, and pardon my cluttering the Digest with this. I need some advice on Brewing/Beer Newsgroups. I am getting Net access through work, and they tell me they will only give me access to two newsgroups. I am going to get on the Austrailian Rules Football list, so that leaves ONE for Beer. Our news server privides a few that deal with beer. Of the following, I need to pick ONE. Which ONE should it be? alt.beer alt.beer.like-molson-eh rec.food.drink.beer muc.lists.beer.homebrew rec.crafts.brewing uiuc.org.homebrewers Another thing I need to know is whether any of the above have the mailing list option (Like HBD) in which case I would not pick it for the newsgroup, and get on the mailing list instead (Prefered!!!). Maybe something said about each group any of you are a part of would be nice as well. My guess is that the alt.beer.like-molson-eh group is not for me, eh. But I could be wrong. What do the other homebrewing lists have that HBD does not? My guess on the "beer" ones is that they have more info on commercial (mostly Micro) brewers, which does sound interesting to me; you can never have too much gossip! :) Thanks in advance for PRIVATE E-MAIL RESPONSES ONLY. No need to clutter HBD with this any more than necessary (and my note is bad enough!). :| --Aubrey Howe, III Brew more Beer!!! Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1656, 02/13/95