HOMEBREW Digest #1674 Wed 08 March 1995
Digest #1673
Digest #1675
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Beverage Survey (Carl P. Borchgrevink)
Boiling Chlorox--ENOUGH!!//Magnetic SS (Kirk R Fleming)
Belgian Candi Sugar in U.S. (Jeff Frane)
Perled Barley (M.Marshburn/D202)
underhopped (McKee McClendon)
Inexpensive Scale (Randy M. Davis)
No annual mailing yet (James Spence/AHA/BJCP)
Well water (Robin Hanson)
Boiler sight glasses (Kelly Jones)
Stuck Fermentations/Dry Hopping w/pellets/Dishwasher Detergents (Keith Frank)
SS Sanitary Valve Parts ("Diane S. Put")
(Brian Keith South)
Re: Dryhopping/Belgian Malts (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Morris Mashing (was RIMS) (Will Self)
dryhopping (Alan P Van Dyke)
Orlando, Clearwater, and Ft. Meyers FL (ecklund)
Uncompressing Stanford .z files (William G.Garrison)
From Concentrate (Matthew Sever)
Canning question results / Spring Street offering ("Harralson, Kirk")
Beer Bread (Arthur_S_Ward.henr801h)
Replacement Temp Control ("Harrington, Stephen J")
stains /chlorine /chiller /RIMS (Eamonn McKernan)
Bottling lagers (Montgomery_John)
Superb dealers ("Todd Orjala")
minikegs, brewpubs, and assorted ("BARRON, GRAHAM LARS")
The Beer Formula Calculator 1.3 (Carlo Fusco)
Magnetic Stainless (Kirk R Fleming)
Fiberglas odors (Philip Gravel)
CO2 gas question (p scott colligan)
Minikeg problem / taste difference (Fredrik Stahl)
Re: Hop Family Tree (Tel +44 784 443167)
Portland Beer Attractions (Steve McKeeby)
Gadgets source (Henson W.C.(Bill))
Sight Glass Fittings & Mash Out-Yield (Timothy J. Dalton 07-Mar-1995 0743)
yeasty in septic tank (Btalk)
"nonsense" from them "No-Nonsense(TM)" hose. (" Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054")
General Introduction ("Hermes G. Saad")
Hop analysis methods ("Daniel S McConnell")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 1995 08:59:38 -0700
From: carlb at msu.edu (Carl P. Borchgrevink)
Subject: Beverage Survey
Dear brewers:
I am a homebrewer at the early stages: I still use extracts! I subscribe
to this list in order to learn from you all. Soon I will venture beyond my
current level of brewing.
I am with the School of Hospitality Management at Michigan State University.
Right now I am in the process of collecting data regarding guests' global
perceptions of beverage service/programs at restaurants. It occurred to me
that some of you may be interested in sharing your opinions with me. If so,
send me a message (CarlB at msu.edu) and I will forward a survey to you. The
survey is relatively lengthy, and I cannot post it to homebrew.
Sincerely,
Carl
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 08:47:44 -0700
From: flemingk at usa.net (Kirk R Fleming)
Subject: Boiling Chlorox--ENOUGH!!//Magnetic SS
This "boiling chlorox" thread is driving me nuts--***no one proposed
using boiling chlorox for anything***. Here's the story so no one need
be concerned about this:
Brian asks for a better pump...
>HBD #1661 (Brian Ellsworth)
Using some cheep plastic connecting hose, I hooked up...bilge pump
...to move the cold water through the cooler and return it to the sink.
I have looked high and low for a better submersible pump...that can
both handle the cold and give me a sufficient pressure...Anyone know of
a source for a better, small, cheep pump?
Pier responds...
>HBD #1664 (Pier Dutcher)
<Anyone know of a source for a better, small, cheep pump?>
...I went to my local...store and picked up a small pump used to
circulate water in those little garden fountains...it's supposed to
recirculate 360 gal./hour. Pier Dutcher (pedu at chevron.com)
Al may not have seen the original post and warns....
>HBD #1666 (Al Korzonas)
>Pier writes:
>Improvement" - type discount hardware store and picked up a small pump
>used to circulate water in those little garden fountains...
Careful...these may not be food grade and also may not be made to handle
hot liquids or sanitizers...
Pier corrects the requirement with a joke...
>HBD #1668 (Pier Dutcher)
I don't have the original request for info...but the requester wanted
some method of recirculating water through the cooling coils of his
chiller. I have no intention of pumping wort through it, but if some
other adverturous soul would like to see what happens if a similar
pump is used on boiling Clorox, I'd love to see the results. ;-)
Kinney thinks someone is actualy doing it and asks...
>HBD #1670 (Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR at conrad.appstate.edu>)
Subject: Boiling clorox
Pier Dutcher mentioned boiling clorox in his post about "cheep pumps".
This reminds me of a question I've been wanting to ask. I'm almost
positive that boiling clorox ruins its sterilization properties. I've
heard that this causes it to degenerate into some kind of harmless salt.
- ------------------------------------------------
There it is...poor Brian just wanted a better bilge pump, Pier offered
a fountain pump, Al simply made an honest observation that Pier's pump
wasn't food grade and might not handle hot liquids OR sanitizers, Pier
said I'm not using it for that but YOU can pump hot chlorox thru it if
you want to (just a joke) and Kinney observes hot chlorox don't works.
I hope this clears up where the thread started--a mis-read of a pump
requirement, and a little humor. No one was using or proposing the use
of boiling Chlorox.
Magnetic SS--
John P will correct, please, but I recall as a stainless steel
fabricator we would sometimes gets stainless alloys that were
indeed detectably magnetic. We returned these materials since
their corrosive-resistance properties weren't good enough for
yacht-deck hardware, but they did come shipped as stainless. I
can't recall the alloy number, but we would have most likely
ordered 301 or 302, I think (it's been over 20 years). John?
Kirk R Fleming
-flemingkr at afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil
-BEER: It's not just for breakfast anymore.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 08:37:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Frane <gummitch at teleport.com>
Subject: Belgian Candi Sugar in U.S.
Just as a point of information (and standard disclaimers apply): F. H.
Steinbart has succeeded, again, in stocking Belgian candi sugar. They
have three colors: clear, amber (75 l) and dark (275 l). The sugar is
the classic rock candy form: big, big crystals on strings. If you are
interested, give them a phone call; they do mail order in a big way.
(503) 232-8793. Tell them you heard about it on the 'net.
- --Jeff Frane
Return to table of contents
Date: 6 Mar 95 10:39:41 EST
From: M.Marshburn/D202 at cgsmtp.comdt.uscg.mil
Subject: Perled Barley
Two short questions! Perled Barley - Can this stuff be ground, roasted and
used in place of roast barley in stouts? Also can it be substituted for
unmalted barley? It's readily available in bulk at the grocery store and
appears to be barley thats been dehusked.
Belgian Wit - Is this a lager or an ale? - I have a recipe of 4lbs DWC pils,
4lbs raw wheat, 1/2lb rolled oats, 1oz coriander, grated rind from 2 oranges
and 2 lemons, wyeast 3944 belgian white. The recipe doesn't go into any
fermenting details. Does it sound authentic? I've never mashed or lautered
raw wheat, is there anything I should be particularly careful of?
TIA
Reply to:
m.marshburn/d202 at cgsmtp.comdt.uscg.mil
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 95 11:58:54 EST
From: McKee McClendon <R1MJM1 at VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU>
Subject: underhopped
Did anyone see a reply to the query about what to do about underhopped
beer after it is bottled. I too had that problem. I boiled .75 oz.
Hallertau plug for 45 min. and .25 oz for 15 minutes in an extract
recipe for Kolsch. When I oppened a bottle 2 weeks after bottling it
had almost no hop flavor. Can anything be done to save 35 bottles of
beer?
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 95 10:10:33 MST
From: Randy M. Davis <rmdavis at mocan.mobil.com>
Subject: Inexpensive Scale
A year ago I purchased a Cuisinart model SA-105 portion scale for weighing
hops. This is a pendulum scale of plastic (mostly) construction that
the manufacturer says is accurate to 3 grams. It has a capacity of ~300 grams
and may also be read in ounces. The cost was $35.00 Can. which was the most
reasonable price I have seen for a scale claiming similiar accuracy.
It has also proven to be useful for specialty malts and priming sugar. I often
wonder how I did without one for so long.
- --
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Randy M. Davis rmdavis at mocan.mobil.com Calgary Canada (403)260-4184 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Return to table of contents
Date: 06 Mar 95 12:26:29 EST
From: James Spence/AHA/BJCP <70740.1107 at compuserve.com>
Subject: No annual mailing yet
Several judges have emailed me saying they have not received the BJCP's annual
mailing.
The BJCP has not sent an annual mailing this year yet.
In early January, some judges received updates to Certified/National/Master.
Someone assumed this was the annual mailing but it was not.
Cheers,
James
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 10:43:08 -0700
From: rhanson at nmsu.edu (Robin Hanson)
Subject: Well water
I have recently moved and now draw my household water from a well. I have
noticed that after a certain time the water started to "not smell so good".
I then clorinated the well. Does anyone out there have a well and if so how
often should it be clorinated? Last time I added Chlorine, the clorine smell
in the water put my brewing schedule back a week.
It it safe to use well water or as anone had any problems?
Thanks,
Robin
Robin Hanson
Rhanson at nmsu.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 10:45:59 -0700
From: k-jones at ee.utah.edu (Kelly Jones)
Subject: Boiler sight glasses
Jim Hunter, in HBD #1672, recommends (if I understand him correctly)
tapping into the side of the fitting for the drain in order to install a
sight glass. I would add a warning for those who are considering this:
You will not be able to read the boiler volume while wort is draining! The
flow of wort past the end of the sight tube creates a Bernoulli effect
which draws the fluid level in the sight tube way down, making it
impossible to get an accurate reading. Worse yet, if you pump fluid out of
the boiler, as I sometimes do, it is poosible to suck air into the pump
from the open sight glass tube.
You would be better off installing your sight glass at a point on the
boiler *other than* the drain outlet, unless you have absolutely no
intention of measuring wort volume while draining the boiler.
Kelly
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 12:08:40 -0600
From: keithfrank at dow.com (Keith Frank)
Subject: Stuck Fermentations/Dry Hopping w/pellets/Dishwasher Detergents
**** from Bruce DeBolt ********
Miscellaneous topics, some from recent posts.
1. Stuck Fermentations
I've used Wyeast 1098 British 4 times with a one pint starter (porter,
bitter, cream ale, ESB) and had stuck ferments on 3. Reviewng my records
I've noted a ferment temp. at or below 70F for each of them. I put my
fermenter in a water bucket to keep the temperature fairly constant. The
bitter (1.035 OG) fermented completely but the others stopped at 1.020-1.022.
The last time this happened (ESB, 1.050 OG) I tried rousing the yeast by
rocking the carboy with no success. The next step was to heat the bucket
water from 70 to 75F by pouring in hot water. Within minutes the
fermentation kicked off again (slowly) and finished at about 1.013, which
was fine. The local homebrew shop said it was common to get stuck ferments
in the winter. Try slightly heating your carboy in a bathtub or other
container if you have the same problem.
By the way I've never had this problem with Wyeast 1056 (American), 1333
(European), or the Irish Ale yeast.
2. Dry Hopping
For those who want to dry hop with pellets in a glass carboy I would like
to make a suggestion - don't use a hop bag. It's a real hassle to cram that
bag into the neck. Just try weighing it down with marbles sometime to sink
it - it's amazing how bouyant one ounce of hops can be! I just dump the
loose pellets in the fermenter. At siphon time I sanitize that same hop
bag and a plastic twist tie and put it over the end of the cane, works
great and is easy to get through the neck. This was based on the panty
hose suggestion from the digest last year. My wife wasn't around to pick
out the best candidate so I had to improvise with the hop bag.
Based on what I've read on HBD I think I'll switch to whole hops.
3. Dishwashing Detergents
The dishwashing issue comes up routinely so I thought it might be
interesting to post the typical composition of consumer powdered
dishwashing detergent:
- Sodium tripolyphosphate 20-40% (adds alkalinity, emulsifies greasy
soils, suspends solids)
- Chlorinated isocyanurate 1-3% (oxidizes protein soils, sanitizes)
- Low foam nonionic surfactant 2-4% (wets surface, emulsifies greasy
soils, improves sheeting action)
- Sodium silicate 8-15% (protects metal machine parts)
- Sodium carbonate 0-35% (adds alkalinity)
- Sodium sulfate 0-35% (filler)
- Misc. (color, perfume, 0-3% (aesthetics, reduce foaming)
defoamers)
- Water (bound) 0-20% (filler)
This info is about 3 years old and comes from a surfactant consultant.
Formulations are always changing but the sodium tripolyphosphate
seems to be in all of them. It is used in liquid autodish formulations as
well as institutional formulations (restaurants, etc.)
4. Aromatic Malt - based on suggestions I'll try 1/2 lb in my next alt and
post results.
Bruce DeBolt
c/o keithfrank at dow.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 09:34:15 -0800 (PST)
From: "Diane S. Put" <dput at cello.gina.calstate.edu>
Subject: SS Sanitary Valve Parts
>From *Don* Put:
I recently acquired a 20 gallon SS fermenter that has a three-piece SS
ball valve mounted to the bottom. Actually, one flange of the ball
valve has been sanitary welded to the bottom of the fermenter, which is
how it was designed to be attached, and three SS studs provide the
mounting for the rest of the valve that consists of the body with the ball
and an outer flange that retains the whole unit. There are three teflon
gaskets and two teflon seats in the valve. The manufacturer's logo
appears to be either PBM or IC. Does anyone know who made this valve and
where I could get some new gaskets and seats if these don't clean up okay?
TIA.
don
(dput at cello.gina.calstate.edu)
PS - This fermenter was made by United Utensils Company (UTENSCO) in
Port Washington, NY, but the phone number listed on the fermenter is
now a lawyer's office. Directory assistance doesn't list another
number. Anyone know if UTENSCO still exists?
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 10:20:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Brian Keith South <bks at uclink3.berkeley.edu>
Subject:
Please send me information about home brewery
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 95 13:34:42 EST
From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
Subject: Re: Dryhopping/Belgian Malts
On D/C pils malt: Apparently the "formulation" changed shortly after
the Brewing Techniques article was published, and a protein rest is
now *not* recommended (by Fix, anyway).
On Special B: This seems to vary wildly in quality from batch to
batch. I had some D/C Special B that was wonderfully raisiny. Then I
got some more (still D/C) that was very much like chocolate malt.
=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 95 11:56:24 -0700
From: wself at viking.emcmt.edu (Will Self)
Subject: Morris Mashing (was RIMS)
Friends, now is our opportunity to put a halt to yet another acronym
disfiguring our speech and writing. I refer to the term "RIMS".
Why don't we call it
******************
* Morris Mashing *
******************
rather than RIMS. Thereby we could give credit where credit is due,
and we could avoid an ugly term.
My understanding is that the system was invented my Rodney Morris. Let
us show our gratitude for Rodney's contribution with this terminology,
as in the other arts and sciences!
People who see "RIMS" for the first time have no idea what it is.
People who would see "Morris Mashing" would at least know that it's
a system of mashing. This could admittedly spawn some jokes about
"Morris Mashing bashing", but could they be as bad as any jokes spawned
by the other term?
What do you all say?
Will Self
Billings, Montana
Return to table of contents
Date: Monday, 6 March 95 13:18:45 CST
From: Alan P Van Dyke <llapv at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu>
Subject: dryhopping
Howdy, y'all,
Recently (sorry, I didn't write down who or what HBD issue) someone suggested
using a hop tea instead of dryhopping, on the grounds that dryhopping was "a
pain in the tush." He didn't exactly describe how he dryhopped, but I do know
that it's easier than doing an extra boil.
I dryhop with pellets in a hop bag. I simply sanitize the bag with my
favorite method (don't want to start another sanitation thread here), pop in
around an ounce of pellets, & weight it with a sanitized table knife. I then
shove it into the carboy, & let it go for a week. On bottling day, I remove
the bag, dump the spent hops in the compost pile, & bottle. I use pellets
only because they are easier to get into the carboy. No fuss, no muss.
The problem with the hop tea is the boiling. The boiling water will drive off
the very thing you're trying to put into the beer- the volatile aroma. Even
if you just steep the hops in the water, a lot of aroma is going to be lost.
To me, the point of dryhopping is no boil at all, keeping those volatile oils
working for a better America (or at least a better pale ale).
Alan Van Dyke (my real name) llapv at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu Austin, TX
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 14:17:31 -0500
From: ecklund at tcpcs3.dnet.etn.com
Subject: Orlando, Clearwater, and Ft. Meyers FL
Almost time for my annual "southern sojourn" to a place where the sun still
shines. With the Major League Baseball situation being what it is, I should
have more time on my hands to pursue other interests. I would certainly
appreciate any suggestions anyone out in HBDland may have regarding "Don't
miss" brewpubs or micros in any of these three areas. (The first toast
is to you!)
TIA and regards,
Bill Ecklund
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 1995 11:34:02 -0700
From: ggarrison at qualcomm.com (William G.Garrison)
Subject: Uncompressing Stanford .z files
Perhaps someone out there can direct me to the "Uncompress" utility for .z
downloadable files. Trying to download from ftp.stanford.edu and can't find
it on their system.
Also, what program is needed to view the .jpg image files?
Thanks in advance.
Lost in the Burgh
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 95 13:59:57 -0500
From: Matthew Sever <msever at phc.com>
Subject: From Concentrate
I'm a beginner homebrewer (extract and grain), and am planning to
make a fruit beer for my next batch. I was drinking a cranberry
juice blend this morning and was thinking how nice it would taste
with some hops and malt (but won't most everything?). Anyway, I was
wondering if anyone has ever tried brewing with a juice concentrate?
I've read about doing it with frozen fruit, but have never heard
about doing it with a fruit juice. I imagine that the sugar in it
might give it an off flavor (cidery, perhaps?). Furthermore, if it's
'no sugar added', would that make any difference? Any suggestions,
experiences or recipies would be appreciated, and private e-mail is
fine. If I get anything interesting I'll post later.
TIA, Matt
[Before anyone starts throwing SA Cranberry 'Lambic' recipies at me,
I'm looking for a bit more pronounced fruit taste ;^) ]
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 95 15:42:06 EST
From: "Harralson, Kirk" <kwh at news.roadnet.ups.com>
Subject: Canning question results / Spring Street offering
Several people replied privately to my post about using canning
methods for wort (HBD 1668). Most agreed that 240F was the minimum
canning temperature to be absolutely safe for low-acid (ph > 4.6)
food, but many people said they used a boiling water bath anyway since
the threat of botulism was so low. Some people said these people have
just been lucky so far. Some people brought up very good points,
seemingly contradictary to the arguments for pressure canning. For
example, wort preparation prior to fermentation is brought only to
boiling, not 240F, without botulism risk. Does the alcohol level
prevent this? If it does, then either method for canning wort would
seem to be acceptable.
In last Sunday's Baltimore Sun, there was an announcement for a public
offering of 2.7 million shares of Spring Street Brewing Company of New
York City. The purpose of the offering, according to founder Andrew
Klein, is to raise $5 million to expand the microbrewery's marketing
efforts and finance development of new beers. It went on to describe
the the products (Wit and Amber Wit). Does anyone know anything about
this company and/or the founder? Initial offering is at $1.85/share
(a prospectus is available by calling 1-800-948-8988). No affiliation
(yet).
Kirk Harralson
Bel Air, Maryland
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 13:25:59 PST
From: Arthur_S_Ward.henr801h at xerox.com
Subject: Beer Bread
Does anyone have a recipe for beer bread ?????????
- ----------------------------------------------------
Thanks - Art Ward
Arthur_S_Ward.henr801h%xerox.com at
vmsmail:SMTP
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Date: 6 Mar 1995 14:09:30 -0800
From: "Harrington, Stephen J" <sharrington at msmail4.hac.com>
Subject: Replacement Temp Control
Well, here I am again asking for info.....
The Hunter temperature controller which I have had for the past few years has
crapped out, and since I had a controller, I would always skip past posts
dealing with them. The only thing that I do remember is posts saying that the
Hunter is no longer in production. So what is the latest and greatest way to
control the fridge? I am looking for a reasonably priced gadget that is as
easy as the Hunter, and please, do not suggest I make something out of parts
from radio shack. I am always amazed by the posts of some of the things that
people put together to brew with. After a long day of work, the first thing I
want to do is have a homebrew and the last thing I want to is engineer
something.
TIA,
Stephen Harrington
Manhattan Beach, CA
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 95 17:12:38 EST
From: Eamonn McKernan <eamonn at rainbow.physics.utoronto.ca>
Subject: stains /chlorine /chiller /RIMS
People seem to disagree over what exactly these post-brewing brown stains
are that appear on kitchen walls. Some say it's wort, others that it's
water condensation that collects dirt from the wall as it runs. But the
important, and sad conclusion is that irrespective of its exact composition,
I'm gonna have to clean it up. Bummer.
****************
Chlorine evaporates over time. Really? How quickly? I keep 6 gal of chlorine
and water solution in an uncapped carboy. I rack it to vessels that need
sanitizing, let it soak, then rack it back. I've been using the same solution
for weeks. How much longer is it good for before I should mix it anew?
****************
I converted my 25' of 3/8 copper tubing immersion chiller into ed hitchcock's
planispiral chiller that was discussed recently. I promised that I'd experiment
with this design, and report results. Unfortunately, the preliminary results
are not good. 6+ gallons of porter-to-be was chilled last night using this
setup in a plastic bucket. The top half of wort chilled over 15 minutes or
so, yet burning hot to the touch wort remained on the bottom despite the
fact that hot stuff, being less dense, is supposed to rise and stir things
up. Very disappointing to me as a fluid dynamicist in training. One theory:
gravity stratification in the wort. The heavier wort (with more sugar and
stuff dissolved in it) was on the bottom before chilling began. Even at a
higher temperature, perhaps it's still heavier. I should really devote
some time to experiments with water to test this. For now, I merely offer
the caveat to anyone considering this idea: Just because Ed's works, doesn't
mean that yours will. 45 minutes chill time is LONG.
****************
A RIMS question: Is it better to add all "sparge" water at dough in, and just
forget about sparging? Efficiency might be lower with this method, but it
sounds easier. How much would efficiency suffer? Or even better, add it
when stepping up temperature. This would decrease times between temperature
steps. But it'd be harder for me to automate by computer. (Yes my computer
project is still a go. I'll be posting progress as it happens, but things
won't really take off for another month or so)
So many questions...
Cheers,
Eamonn McKernan
eamonn at rainbow.physics.utoronto.ca
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Date: Mon, 6 Mar 95 16:18:00 CST
From: Montgomery_John at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil
Subject: Bottling lagers
Hello all,
The time has come to bottle my latest attempt at a Czech pils and was
curious about temperature considerations during the bottling process.
Does everybody else bottle theirs on the kitchen floor like me or do
you have special temperature controlled rooms to keep your precious
lager at the 'perfect' temperature throughout the bottling process?
'Preciate any help.
John M.
montgomery_john at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil
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Date: Mon, 6 Mar 95 16:22:24 -0500
From: "Todd Orjala" <t-orja at maroon.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: Superb dealers
Several people have e-mailed me requesting names and numbers of
dealers in the Twin Cities who sell the Superb gas burner
which I described in HBD 1672. I am a satisfied customer at
both but have no other affiliation:
Northern Brewer
800 681 2739
nbrewer at winternet.com
Wind River Brewing
800 266 4677
73071.1754 at compuserve.com
You must specify propane or natural gas. They do come with
optional legs which I do not use since I find it more convenient
and stable to have the burner on the floor so I do not need to
lift a heavy kettle to waist level to get it on/off the burner.
Those wishing to fully utilize gravity may find it advantageous
to have it up on legs.
I reread my original post and realized that I neglected to include
the word "cannot" when describing my ability to monitor gas
consumption. I have no reason to think it is a gas guzzler and would
guess that at 35,000 BTUs it is more efficient than the cajun cookers.
The main advantage I can see to this stove versus the cajun cooker
style burner (which I have not used) is that the flame is much
more widely distributed which minimizes scorching. It is really
very much like a burner on a heavy-duty commercial gas range.
Regards,
Todd Orjala
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Date: Mon, 06 Mar 95 14:00:55 EST
From: "BARRON, GRAHAM LARS" <GBARRON at MUSIC.CC.UGA.EDU>
Subject: minikegs, brewpubs, and assorted
Fellow Real Beer Drinkers of America,
First of all a big thank you to all of you who responded with such
enthusiasm to my request for Belgian White extract recipes. I really
appreciate it. Due to the number of requests I have had for a
compilation of all the recipes I received, I am putting together a
file including all of them (and my own) that I will gladly e-mail to
anyone who requests it. It will be ready in a week or so I hope, so
just write me and I'll get one to you.
Second, a question on minikegs -- the kind made by Fassbier and
other companies, NOT the Party Pig. I read the recent review in
Zymurgy, but I would like to hear from others out there who have
experience with these systems in regards to their opinion about if they
are worth the money (my local homebrew shop sells minikeg systems for
$69.99, but I'm not sure what that includes), have you encountered any
problems, are they easy to use/store, etc. TIA.
Third, can anyone tell me why such great brewing companies, such
as Sierra Nevada, Pete's, Grant's (Yakima), and others use screwtop
bottles? I would expect them, of all breweries, to recognize the need
of homebrewers such as myself,who are still kegless and bottle all of
their homebrew, in regards to pop-top bottles. I mean, as you all know,
we cannot use those type bottles. Any answers?
Also, Georgia is facing a situation somewhat similar to Miss. in that
we have brewpub legislation pending but dying in the state legislature.
Any fellow homebrewers in GA I would like to encourage to post the
telephone numbers to the HBD of the State representatives responsible
for the legislation and its looming demise. I have been unable to
obtain it. I would also like to encourage the AHA and AOB to get
involved although I know it is not really their area.
Thanks again and keep on brewin'!
Graham Barron
gbarron at music.cc.uga.edu
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Date: Mon, 06 Mar 1995 20:47:49 -0500
From: Carlo Fusco <fusco at io.org>
Subject: The Beer Formula Calculator 1.3
Hello Brewers,
After getting feed back on the first Beer Formula Calculator, I have
updated it. You can now download the new and improved Beer Formula
Calculator 1.3 from:
ftp.stanford.edu
/pub/clubs/homebrew/submissions
I am sure Stephen will eventually move them, so if you don't find them
look in:
ftp.stanford.edu
/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer/programs
The Beer Formula Calculator, is a MS Excel single page spreedsheet for
helping you formulate your all grain recipes. Give it a try and tell me
what you think. BTW, it is in both .hqx for Mac users and .zip format
for PC users.
Cheers
Carlo
PS: For those of you without FTP access, I can email you a copy BUT, I
can only send it in .hqx format. If you need the .zip file, you will
have to find another way of getting the file.
- --
Carlo Fusco Aurora,Ontario,Canada Certified Beer Judge (BJCP)
fusco at io.org <- best bet Canadian Amateur Brewers
ab779 at freenet.toronto.on.ca Association Board Member
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Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 19:43:00 -0700
From: flemingk at usa.net (Kirk R Fleming)
Subject: Magnetic Stainless
After posting last time that I remembered getting truckloads of
stainless stock into our little fabrication shop in the 70's and
having to return it, I took down one of those refridgerator
magnets and started "testing" all the stainless in sight.
Starting with the cheap stainless flatware in the kitchen, I found
this material to be highly magnetic. Moving to the "special
occassion" stainless (we don't have special occassion silver), it
was slightly magnetic--almost enough to support the weight of the
magnet, but not quite.
Then to the Revereware saucepans--all from the same original set.
The large unit and the smallest 1 quart pan were both slightly
magnetic--just perceptible. The mid-size unit, a 2 quart pan, was
highly magnetic. Then off to the stainless mixed-drink shaker--
you know, the things you use with a pint glass to shake Martinis.
Some attraction detectable.
I then checked the ends of the Sankey kegs I'd removed in building
The Brew Monster, and found they were not even slightly magnetic.
Finally, I ended the evening's materials engineering exercise with
three stem-and-poppet assemblies from three Sankey kegs. The tubes
themselves showed no detecable attraction, but the poppet housing
(the part you lock the coupler (or "tap") into, was quite magnetic.
This part appears to be a turned forging to me.
Conclusion? Stainless steels come in spectrum of formulations many
of which are indeed magnetic. Twenty years ago we felt the magnetic
materials were inferior for resisting corrosion due to freshwater
pollutants and to saltwater exposure. I'm not sure we had any basis
in fact for this, or if it just seemed intuitive.
Kirk R Fleming
Patriot, Beer Punk
Colorado Springs CO
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Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 23:47:25 -0600 (CST)
From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel)
Subject: Fiberglas odors
===> CLAY at prism.clemson.edu wonders about the odor in Fiberglas:
> Trust me, you
>don't want to make beer in fiberglass anything. By way of perhaps more
>accessible example, go check out newly poured "cultured marble" sink tops
>at your local kitchen-and-bath shop. Many of them are made of the same
>resins. That distinctive odor is, you guessed it, fiberglass. Don't ask
>what part of it smells - I'm an entomologist; if I'd been smart enough to
>be a chemist I'd have retired by now.
The odor is probably due to residual styrene or ethylbenzene. I'm a
chemist and if I were that smart, I would have retired by now. Instead
I do computers...
- --
Phil
_____________________________________________________________
Philip Gravel pgravel at mcs.com
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Date: 6 Mar 1995 17:12 EST
From: pscott at cascades.cc.bellcore.com (p scott colligan)
Subject: CO2 gas question
As a new kegger I was wondering what the pressure of a newly filled 5lb
CO2 canister should read. The last time I had mine filled, the pressure
was very close to the "time to buy more gas" mark. After only 1 5 gal
batch, my CO2 is empty. I did discover a bad O ring which will be replaced
soon, but I can't help thinking I was shorted when I filled my CO2.
Thanks in advance.
Scott Colligan pscott at cc.bellcore.com
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Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 10:05:55 +0100
From: Fredrik.Stahl at mathdept.umu.se (Fredrik Stahl)
Subject: Minikeg problem / taste difference
I thought I would tell you a little story. It's a bit sad at first but
fortunately it has now achieved a happy ending.
I normally put most of my beer in minikegs, the Fass-Frisch type, and
dispense with the Party-Star tapper. This has worked well for about 6
months until about a month ago. I then managed to spray most of my kitchen
walls with beer when pushing down the tap into the keg. I thought I had
cleaned everything but later I found the kitchen phone sticking to my ear,
so I guess I missed that one.
Well, anyway, it seems that the beer was flowing out from the small hole at
the top of the plastic tube which you push into the keg. Here is an ASCII
scetch of the bottom of the tap with the plastic tube disconnected:
| |
|_________|
|E | | E| <--- Bottom end of tap (rests on top of keg)
U | | U
| |
| | <--------- Small plastic tube, CO2 comes out here
(3)
I
I
I
|I| <--------- Rubber seal which could slide on the
pipe (5)
I
I
I <---------- Metal pipe, leads beer from keg (2)
I
EE EE <------- Threads
|| ||
|| O <------- Small hole (4)
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
| | | | <------- Tube gets thicker here (6)
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
|_| |_|
\
\---------- Beer goes in here (1)
The beer should flow from (1) through the tube, into the metal pipe (2) and
out through the tap. CO2 comes from the small plastic tube (3) and should
flow out through the small hole (4). The problem was that I thought the
rubber seal (5) should cover the small tube (3). This caused the beer to
gush out through the tube and the small hole when inserting the tap. It
also made the tap suck CO2 from the top of the keg instead of beer from the
bottom.
The solution is obvious, as my supervisor sais, at least when you know it.
The rubber seal should seal off the plastic tube where it gets thicker (6).
I believe it was glued there from the beginning. A better solution would be
to have a "rim" on the tube to keep the seal in place, but it seems to work
just to push it in place.
Paul Bell mentions in HBD #1672 a taste difference between bottles and
minikegs. My experince is the opposite: my kegged beers usually have a
maltier, smoother taste, and the bottled beer has a (very small) hint of a
"cidery" taste.
I have also found that priming with DME instead of sugar gave better head
retention and a maltier taste. Now, I'm not sure if I trust myself on this,
since I have only done this experiment once (the actual amounts of
fermentable priming sugars may differ and the beer was taken from different
parts of the green beer, the beer for sugar-primed bottles last).
Well, sorry about the long post, but if anyone encounters the same problem
it may spare them some lost beer. I hope I got the technical terms right,
feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions.
Skaal, as we say in Sweden.
Fredrik.Stahl at mathdept.umu.se
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 09:32:05 +0000
From: Brian Gowland <B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk> (Tel +44 784 443167)
Subject: Re: Hop Family Tree
In HBD 1673, dhvanvalkenburg at CCGATE.HAC.COM wrote:
>
> As far as I can tell all hops originated from one of two lines; either
> Fuggles or Hallertauer-Mittelfrueh. The following is a first draft
> showing those two families of hops. Any inaccuracy is something that
> I would like to know about. I would invite any input, additions etc.
In "Home Brewing - The CAMRA Guide", Graham Wheeler states that
although there was once an actual Goldings strain, these days the term
Goldings actually refers to a "class" of hops rather than any one strain
and he suggests that the original Goldings strain has long since disappeared.
He doesn't indicate anywhere that "Goldings" are descended from Fuggles
and I have always undestood that the two were unrelated.
Also, in your tree, you put East Kent Goldings as descendents of
Goldings - E.K. Goldings are actually just Goldings - the E.K. prefix is
simply to show where they are grown and doesn't necessarily mean they are
a different strain. Styrian Goldings are, however, one of the Goldings
"varieties" - a class of hop that covers hybrids of Goldings crossed with
other hops. If you are going to cover hybrids then you really do need to
do a proper "family" tree and include the "marriage" lines. I can't really
add much more - GW mentions various hybrids but doesn't give complete
parent information. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Brian
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Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 07:04:06 -0500
From: mckeeby at tcpcs3.dnet.etn.com (Steve McKeeby)
Subject: Portland Beer Attractions
Where does one go in or around Portland, OR for "beer" related entertainment?
I will be traveling there 3/13/95 and have no idea where to go.
TIA,
Steve-Kalamazoo
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 07:43:25 -0500
From: awchrd2 at peabody.sct.ucarb.com (Henson W.C.(Bill))
Subject: Gadgets source
HBD'ERS,
Here is a terrific source for an awful lot of gadgets and materials,
in
addition to heat and chemical compatibility charts. They carry pH
meters,
tubing, etc. They also take M/C, Visa and AmEx.
Cole-Parmer Instrument Co.
7425 North Oak Park Ave.
Niles, IL. 60714-9930
Always lurking,
awchrd2 at peabody.sct.ucarb.com (Henson W.C.(Bill))
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 95 07:46:56 EST
From: Timothy J. Dalton 07-Mar-1995 0743 <dalton at subpac.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Sight Glass Fittings & Mash Out-Yield
"Jim Hunter" <Jim.Hunter.LDIV at quickmail.llnl.gov>
wrote a detailed description of how to make an o-ring fitting for a sight glass
from a standard compression fitting. There are commercial fittings available
that use an O-Ring and a specialy designed ferrule to hold tubes in place, just
as the fitting he described does. Its called the Ultra-Torr fitting, available
from Swagelok/Cajon (there are distributors all over the country for these,
our local one is Cambridge Valve & Fitting in Billerica, MA). These fittings
were designed for vacuum work (hence the name - we've used them down to 10^-6
torr with no problem). I've used them in my brewery with no problem too.
Just be sure to check the temperature range on the O-Ring to ensure its
appropriate for the application you have in mind. I believe viton is standard,
with some other options.
+++++
flemingk at usa.net (Kirk R Fleming) wrote:
> Why would a mash-out have any effect on yield at all?
Increased solubility of sugars and dextrines at higher temperatures.
It doesn't increase conversion, but rather your ability to extract the
converted sugars and dextrines from the malt, thus an increase in yield.
Tim
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 08:15:22 -0500
From: Btalk at aol.com
Subject: yeasty in septic tank
Charles Deaton wonders if the leftover yeast will damage his septic system.
I doubt the yeast will do anything harmful. You don't have to worry about
reactivating your septic tank-think about all the bacteria etc laden 'stuff'
that goes into it on a daily basis.
(I live in upstate NY and used to work for the division of the county health
dep't that dealt with both new and old septic systems.)
If you are concerned about the health of your septic system,the best thing to
do is to have the tank pumped out on a periodic basis (3-4 years or so).
The so called septic tank cleaners or reactivaters in a box will do more harm
than good. New York's recommendation is to avoid these products. Email me if
you want more info.
Regards,
Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton, NY <btalk at aol.com>
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Date: Tue, 07 Mar 1995 08:24:08 EST
From: " Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054" <debaydr9 at ibmmail.com>
Subject: "nonsense" from them "No-Nonsense(TM)" hose.
Tom Williams wrote concerning using nylons in the boil.
Careful here.
Nylons are not just made of nylon. Most also contain a small proportion of
elastomeric polyurethane fibers (e.g. Spandex, Dolorstan (tm), Lycra (tm)) to
give them their stretch. The polyurethane fibers are not nearly as chemically
resistant as the nylon and contain numerous additives as well (Zinc stearate
and silicon oil are common).
Probably nothing wickedly toxic here, so don't fret too much, I've strained
cooked fruit juices through panties myself :-). All the same, I'd stick to pure
nylon netting or muslin.
Bob Bloodworth
"Hopfen und Malz gehoeren in den Halz"
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Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 07:28:03 -0500
From: "Hermes G. Saad" <hermes at pipeline.com>
Subject: General Introduction
- --Hi, Iwondering how I can find a Homebrew news group?
I need advice about a dark lager. Namely, how long must it be stored in
cold temperatures?
I have a question about a mead (my first batch) I'm brewing. With the
inclusion of yeast nutrient, how long should primary fermentation last? its
been five and a half weeks and there's CO2 coming out of the airlock 8
times a minute.
thanks
Hermes
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Date: 7 Mar 1995 08:48:17 -0500
From: "Daniel S McConnell" <Daniel.S.McConnell at med.umich.edu>
Subject: Hop analysis methods
Subject: Hop analysis methods
I have completed preparing a lab guide for measuring hop bitterness
in hops and beer. All methods are from The ASBC Methods of Analysis,
Volume 8, 1992 which is referenced to J.Inst.Brew., J.Am.Soc.Brew.Chem.,
Analytica and Anal.Chem.
Method 1: measurement of bitterness in beer
I posted this a week or so ago
Method 2: alpha and beta acids by HPLC
Method 3: alpha and beta acids by spectrophotometry
Due to the rather technical nature I will refrain from posting the
procedures to the entire HBD. I will be happy to send the method to
those that would like a copy. Caveat: if you don't have a UV/VIS spec or
a rpHPLC these methods will be useless. Is there a hop FAQ where
these procedures can find a safe home?
DanMcC
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1674, 03/08/95