HOMEBREW Digest #1675 Thu 09 March 1995

Digest #1674 Digest #1676

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  cheap water pump ("Ted B. Simpson")
  Advanced Brewers course in DC (sadvary)
  Please remove me from your mailing list (Neil Pruchansky)
  Seattle area Brewpubs/micros (Mark Evans)
  Re: "Jurassic Beer" ("Thomas Aylesworth")
  Hop family tree/ CP's OG calculations (Gary Bell)
  Refrigerator trouble (JTFinnell)
  St. Louis, hot-cold Breaks (HOMEBRE973)
  Wort Pump (dsanderson)
  RE:phenols and unitanks (Jim Busch)
  brewing (KALLMON)
  brewing Soda Pop questions (dbrigham)
  Wort Pumps (Bryan Dawe)
  Annual HVHB Homebrew Competition (Greg Holton)
  flaked rice (PRYBAK)
  Constant Stirred Mash / stains / chiller pump / Miller Celis Deal / acid washing (Rich Larsen)
  CLUB ADDRESS UPDATES--Is ZYMURGY listing correct for your club? (uswlsrap)
  4th Central ILL HBC Results (Tony McCauley)
  "Free" carboys/Freezing yeasts (TPuskar)
  pellet dryhopping/"stuck" ferment/magnetic SS/hop tree/DMS yeast (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Holy Bananas (as I recall) (Tim Fields)
  Re: Flat beer (Dave Coombs)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 07:06:32 -0700 (MST) From: "Ted B. Simpson" <tsimpson at du.edu> Subject: cheap water pump Two quick things: First, the best source for a cheap water pump (free, in my case) is old dishwasher pumps. They are stone simple pumps, designed to handle all sort of particulate garbage, and come complete with motor controller and bypass/dump solenoid if you are so inclined. I used one mounted under a small "table" affair with an inverted plastic carboy with the bottom removed to make a super immersion chiller. The carboy is the reservoir, ice is added (I have two brew fridges so I have excess freezer capacity. I freeze bricks of ice in tupperware and use it all on brewday to cool wort.) along with water, the pump shots it through hose to 1/2" copper tubing immersed in hot wort and the return water, now warm, is shunted aside for the first few minutes, then later water is recirculated, chilled by ice, and so on. The cheap pump is the heart; all this wouldn't be worth it if cost was high. This pump is designed to chew up food, so ice chips don't phase it. Frankly, I can't find any drawbacks-just use a GFI to safety yourself, and don't pump any fluid that will ever be consumed by humans-these pumps come really fouled with years of spooge! Second, I also made a counterflow chiller (wanted to use a hopback, so immersion was out) of hose, male adapters, and non-valved "Y" fittings. I forgot who mentioned this earlier, but great and beery minds must move together, because this system works cheaply and well. One thing I did find out was that you can use plastic washer nozzles (just a cheap cone of plastic sold for washing walks and so forth and available in the lawn and garden section of the hardware) as the thimbles (?) for the 3/8" copper where it exits from the "Y". Drill the nozzle out almost to size, use a tapered reamer to slowly remove plastic until copper is a tight slip fit through nozzle. Slide nozzle over tubing, screw onto "Y" and all done. I didn't even have to silicone it. No leaks. This counterflow chiller is being hooked up to the recirculating ice water pump system above. I have put another "Y" in line with the water line from the pump through the chiller. This "Y" has valves and the other side flows back to the water resrvoir. The result is that I can determine the flow rate of ice water through chiller using a shunt bypass rather than a motor speed control. The pump is never overloaded and with a thermometer probe inline with the chilled wort I can "dial-in" the exact temp I want the wort chilled to prior to pitching. Enough BW... Happy Brews to you! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 09:11:52 -0500 From: sadvary at netmon.dickinson.edu Subject: Advanced Brewers course in DC Being that the Advanced Brewing course offered by the Brewers Guild is sold out for this weekend (3/11 - 3/12) in D.C., I was wondering if there are any folks that can't attend and wish to "sell" their slot? I'm sure we could do the exchange through the Guild people. I know there are future course offered, but a friend is going down and I could room with him and save $$$. -Bill Sadvary Carlisle, PA 717 245 1610 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 09:22:36 -0500 (EST) From: Neil Pruchansky <npruchan at keene.edu> Subject: Please remove me from your mailing list Please remove me Npruchan at newpisgah.keene.edu from your mailing list. thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 08:34:32 -0600 From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans) Subject: Seattle area Brewpubs/micros Hope this isn't being too redundant. (I won't be going to Anacortes or the San Juans... although I would love to!) I will be visiting Seattle the third week of March and want some suggestions on Micros or brewpubs worth visiting. Private e-mail is fine. (and no, I will not be going on the tour of Kurt Cobain's neighborhood.) Brewfully Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 10:12:26 -0500 From: "Thomas Aylesworth" <t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com> Subject: Re: "Jurassic Beer" Jeff Hewit (jhewit at freenet.vcu.edu) comments on Flag Porter and Norvig Ale and asks: >Does anyone know more about these beers? How much is true, and >how much is pure marketing BS? BTW, neither appears to have >any yeast sediment to use as a starter for "Jurassic" Homebrew. I went to a beer dinner last November at the Brickskeller in DC where Alan Eames, the beer historian/anthropologist, was speaking about these beers. He has something (although I'm not sure exactly what) to do with their now being available commercially. The stories as you posted them are the same stories he told, and I have no reason to doubt their truth. The yeast for the Flag Porter came from a bottle that was found in a ship recovered from the English Channel. The bottle was taken to a lab, and they discovered it was beer which still contained viable yeast. They managed to culture it. Eames also claimed that the beer used a "traditional 1850" porter recipe - but really didn't go into much detail on how he got this. He did claim that his research had convinced him that the original porter was made with beans as part of the grist - this was the only part of his story that I found highly dubious, although I suppose it is possible. He did say that the Flag Porter did not contain beans. As for the Norvig Ale, that story also is as you say, and Michael Jackson's influence has been documented by MJ in a letter to the Barleycorn. The Norwegian beer making tradition apparently involves passing down "beer totems" from generation to generation. These totems are used to stir the fermenting beer, thus picking up yeast (and numerous bacteria) that is added to the next batch when it is stirred. Michael Jackson managed to come into possession of a totem that had been passed down for many generations, had a lab culture the yeast, and, again, a beer was made using it. I don't know what the recipe is based on, but it is not very hoppy, and definitely contains what we would now call "off-flavors", although I suppose that they could also be described as "a rare taste of the ancient Scandinavian ales of legend" - depending on your perspective. It was an interesting speech, and I always enjoy reading and listening to Mr. Eames, although I do always try to keep a healthy dose of skepticism. Still, he has done more research on traditional brewing methods than anyone of whom I am aware. As for the beers, I agree completely with your assessment of the Flag Porter - interesting, but not exceptional and certainly not worth the price I've seen in stores. The Norvig Ale was complete swill, IMO, and only interesting for the story behind it. Now that I have heard the stories, I don't feel the need to buy either of these products! :-) - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Thomas Aylesworth | t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com Space Processor Software Engineering | Loral Federal Systems, Manassas, VA | (703) 367-6171 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 07:23:42 -0800 From: gbell at ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell) Subject: Hop family tree/ CP's OG calculations In HBD #1673: Don posted a family tree for hops. This is a great idea, and looks interesting. I'm particularly interested in the Fuggles line. Don states that Fuggles or Hallertauer are the root of all hops. I was under the impression Cluster was the oldest hop variety and was perhaps the ancient ancestor. I'm also wondering where all the older bittering varieties such as Bullion and Northern Brewer fit into this scheme. ***** Ralph is understandably confused about Charlie's calculations of the contribution of successive pounds of DME to wort OG. I, too, am starting to wonder if Charlie is from the Delta Quadrant. Look at the table on Page 268 and you will find that 1 lb/gal. gives 40 points, a second pound adds another 30 points, the third pound adds another 40 points, a fourth pound adds only 20 points, and a fifth pound adds 20 points. What kind of strange polynomial equation predicts this kind of relationship? DME contributes about 42 points per pound per gallon. Thus if you add 10 pounds of DME to 5 gallons you get 42 X 10 / 5 = 84 points, giving you an OG of 1.084. This is what Suds calculates. Adding your 1/2 lb of Crystal (24 points/lb/gal) and 1/4 lb of Chocolate (20 pts/lb/gal) would give you 84 + 2.4 + 1 = 87.4 points (1.087). No rocket science. Cheers, Gary - -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gary Bell "Laxo, non excrucio, poto cervisia domestica." Lake Elsinore, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 10:29:45 -0500 From: JTFinnell at aol.com Subject: Refrigerator trouble Hello: ***Warning - slightly off Homebrew Topic *** -but still related- Our used refrigerator, circa 1975, finally died. I would like to have a spare refrigerator for lagering and storage of my brew. 1. Is it worth a service call to find out what is wrong, or should I just junk the thing ? 2. Is there anything that I could check to service the thing myself ? 3. Is there a better forum/listserv that someone knows about to find out the answers to these questions ? TIA private email is best. John Finnell Fresno, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 10:50:56 -0500 From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: St. Louis, hot-cold Breaks I will be in St. Louis for 5 days (Union Station Area) starting March 12, and would be interested in brew pubs, breweries, homebrew shops, and beer related activities in the area. Please reply by e-mail to save bandwidth. Kinney Baumann mentioned that he would hate to leave hot break in the fermenter but that cold break was no problem. Please correct me if I am mistaken, but I was under the impression that hot and cold break were basically the same thing-- coagulated proteins--, and it was just a matter of degree or amount of break material that precipitates out with temperature changes. Dan McC posted a method for using a spectrophotometer for estimating hop bitterness using isooctane and octyl alcohol. Is it really as simple as it sounds, and is it reproducible with worts of different colr and densities? Thanks, Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 10:48:19 EST From: dsanderson at msgate.cv.com Subject: Wort Pump I've been seeing allot of questions regarding Wort Pumps with most people pursuing Aquarium solutions. May I suggest a boat bilge pump. They're small, portable, plastic, submersible, cheap and move plenty of volume. They'll push from 450 GPH to over 1000 GPH depending on model. A 450 GPH version will cost around $20. Some are available with a built in float switch that will turn them on and off in the presence of fluid. They run on 12 VDC, use very little current and can be powered from battery or power supply. Could be the perfect solution. Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 11:06:59 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: RE:phenols and unitanks David asks: <I noted with interest Jim B's comments about a low-temp rest increasing <the content of precursors of 4-vinyl-guaicol. Jim, does this mean that <these precursors are there, but can only be made into bona fide phenols <provided the proper yeast is working on them (e.g. a Bavarian weizen <yeast)? I ask because I really dislike phenolic flavors (yup, denying me <the bliss of Bavarian wheat beers) and want to be able to make US-style <wheats that do not have phenolics, but wish to make use of low-T rests as <part of my mash program. Note that I specifically quoted Warner on this, this is where I first heard of it, but Im quite certain that Eric knows of what he speaks. I feel there are two issues going one here, the first is providing the required precursor, ferrulic acid, in the wort. The second is providing a yeast strin that can consume this and decarboxylize this into 4-vinyl guaiacol. This second part is the key to your question, as you noted. Certainly, using a yeast like Wyeast 1056 in an american wheat ale (yuck!) will not result in a phenol beer. So, go ahead and do a low temp rest to handle all those gums in wheat but use a clean yeast. Kirk writes: <I guess there was a mis-understanding somewhere (me or Jim B) regarding the fermenter concepts. Mostly on my end, I think! >If you're going to this amount of effort, ditch the keg idea and go all >out and have a ... SS sheet rolled to make the top <By "top" do you mean the cylinder portion of the tank (vice the lid)? <If so it sounds like you're suggesting an advantage to custom building <an entire cc fermenter. The idea was to have a cone added to an <existing unit (for maybe $100) as opposed to buying a complete unit <off-the-shelf (a minimum of over $400). I already have the cylinder, <why buy another one (and custom fab it, at that)? In fact, the beer <keg cylinder design is better than one I could have built (at any <reasonable cost, because it already has a chine and partial keg-end at <the top for strength, and the sides already have strengthening ribs in <then for shape retention. These features would easily double the cost <of a simple rolled cylinder, eh? What did I miss? I did mean the cylinder part. I dont like the idea of going to the effort of welding a cone onto a keg. I guess it can be done, especially if you are a welder or know a cheap, good one. Just buying and rolling a cone is not cheap. I think it is a lot better to weld to a more sturdy and thicker sidewall than a keg. If you use 304 SS, 12-14 guage it will be plenty strong enough. I just think you need to carefully consider all the costs and then make a tradeoff decision. Maybe if you get the welding done cheap enough, and find a cheap way to get a cone, you might get it done for $200. Id be suprised if it can be done for $100, assuming you are paying for a welder. Also, dont neglect to include the work required to polish the interior welds to a sanitary finish. If you dont do this, its not worth doing. Dont get me wrong, the keg may be a great way to go, but you might end up paying 75% of the cost of something that will be a better fermenter. Also, consider a simple open fermenter made from a cylinder, you can still harvest yeast from the top or the bottom after you rack/keg the beer. <I interpreted Will's suggestion (HBD #1667) to mean he wanted to have a <bottle in place into which the yeast/trub would collect on a *continuous* <basis--not just something to drain the fermenter into on a batch basis. I dont see the advantage of this over just opening and closing a valve when needed. You save one fitting this way. Jim Busch busch at mews.gsfc.nasa.gov "DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER!" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 12:46:11 -0500 From: KALLMON at aol.com Subject: brewing I am interested in starting to brew my own beer, and was wondering if you guys could give me some helpful tips. Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 11:26:10 EST From: dbrigham at nsf.gov Subject: brewing Soda Pop questions 1) forgive this post if it strays too far from the home brewing topic 2) forgive me if I haven't managed to look in all the correct FAQ files and back issues - --------------------------------------------------------------------- Some Questions on Making Soda Pop at home with Home Brewing Equipment - for Christmas my wife ordered me a home brewing kit being sold at a discount through the Damark mail order catalog. This kit inlcuded the equipment needed to brew app. 3.5 gallons of beer - plastic fermentor, caps, capper and some canned extract with dry generic 'beer yeast'. It also included a bottle of root beer 'extract', a package of dry Red Star yeast and instructions on making the root beer. I made the root beer according to the instructions - basically: mix up warm water with sugar, add extract, prepare Red Start yeast with some warm water then add to mix - then bottle right away and store in the dark at app. 65 degrees F. Worked great. Now I have gone and purchased from a local homebrew supplier some more soda extracts and tried one batch, using the extract instructions (same as the ones with my kit) and the homebrew store guy sold me Nottingham dried ale yeast to use. Well, what is happening is the ale yeast is 'top fermenting' in the bottles and leaving a nasty ring and residue at the top of the soda as well as dropping to the bottom of the bottles. I have given the bottles over 6 weeks now, some warm and some cold and the scum on the top of the bottles just sits there. My original batch with the Red Star yeast (didn't say anything more than that on the label) did not have this problem - all the yeast residue ended up on the bottom of the bottle and I don't remember seeing anything at the top of the bottle during the process. From watching my own ales ferment I realize this scum at the top is what shows up with the beer, which leads me to the question (I know - long winded!): - should I be using something other than ale yeast (like whatever that Red Star strain was)? - should I be letting it do its thing in the fermenter for a day or two then siphon into bottles to avoid the scum? (would this produce some alcohol?) Thanx for any and all information!!! Dana Brigham - National Science Foundation - dbrigham at nsf.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 95 11:33:36 MST From: Bryan Dawe <bryand at gr.hp.com> Subject: Wort Pumps Don Put asked about wort pumps in hbd1673: > There are a couple magnetic drive pumps listed in the Grainger catalog--one > made by Little Giant and one by TEEL--but both of these have "glass-filled > polypropylene parts" that contact the liquid. I have used the TEEL 1/25 HP magnetic drive pump listed in the Grainger catalog to pump 200 degree F wort into my CF wort chiller for about 15 five gallon batches. My guess is that my application is a bit more demanding than the one Mr. Put described in his HBD article. This pump has performed flawlessly in every single use. I open the pump head (after I have rinsed it by pumping fresh water through the system) following each use to dry it off and inspect the pump. The pump still shows no sign of wear. I have no reason to think that this pump will not serve me for fifty years. > In the back of the catalog, there's a list of materials and their > reactions to various liquids. One of the liquids is beer and it > states that polypropylene is "satisfactory to 72F" in contact with > beer. Now, I know that the wort's pH is higher than that of the > beer, the wort will be chilled to about this temp, and that the > contact time while I'm transferring the wort will be fairly short, > so I don't think the contact with the polyporpylene parts will really > be an issue. Will it? Absolutely *not* an issue. That table has an error or two in it. And one of those errors is in the "Beer" row. Think about it. What is in beer? Water, sugar, ethyl alcohol, some organic acids, and a several other compounds in incredibly small amounts. What does the table say about water and polypropylene? No effect. Sugar solutions? No effect. Ethyl (or methyl, propyl, isopropyl, and hexyl for that matter) alcohol? No effect. What about acids? Check out acetic, carbonic, lactic, phosphoric, sulphuric, nitric, and hydrochloric acids. No effect. Check out the "Whiskey and Wines" row in that table. No effect on polypropylene. Kind of makes one wonder just what was in that "beer" that had a "Severe effect - Not Recommended (satisfactory up to 72F)" on polypropylene. Must have been Miller Lite. :-) In any event, it isn't anything that *brewers* need to be concerned with. The fact is that glass reinforced ("glass-filled") polypropylene is pretty tough stuff until you put it into some seriously nasty organic solvents, none of which are going to get anywhere near your beer. Some other useful properties of glass reinforced polypropylene (from a Special issue of a Materials Engineering peridical that I keep around): Water Absorption (24hr): 0.02% - 0.05% Heat Deflection Temp: 275F - 310F at 66 psi 250F - 300F at 264 psi Continuous Use Temp: 250F The heat deflection temperature is the temperature/pressure combination required to cause a permanent deformation of the material. The 264 psi pressure value is applicable in this application since the pump impeller does experience quite a bit of pressure. The moisture absorption *might* be an issue if you were planning to use the pump continuously. In this case there is the possibility of slightly increased pump head wear over *years* of use. In any event, few homebrewers (or microbrewers for that matter) need be concerned with continuous use of their pumps. The temperature specification on the magnetic drive pumps in the Grainger catalog is not there for the materials in the pump head, but for the cooling characteristics of the *motor* used to drive the pump. All of those motors in the pumps are fan cooled. Fan cooling looses its effectiveness when you have a hot fluid flowing past the motor housing. Not to worry, however, the motors used to drive these pumps have built in thermal protection. The worst that will happen is the pump will shut off if it gets too hot, just like your hair dryer. Not that this matters in Mr. Put's application since he expects to pump cooled wort. The pump I use is rated for use with fluids up to 180F. I use it to pump 200F wort for about 15 minutes when I brew. The pump is only starting to grow warm by the time I am finished using it. Remember, these specifications are written by engineers, and, for a variety of good reasons, engineers write incredibly conservative specifications. I should know. I'm an engineer. I am planning to move to a 10 gallon brew length soon. I plan to use this same pump in the same fashion for the larger brew length. I have no reason to think that it will not be able perform its job for many years to come in this even more demanding application. Hope this information helps someone. Bryan P. Dawe bryand at hpgriy.gr.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 14:22:31 -0500 (EST) From: holton at kgn.ibm.com (Greg Holton) Subject: Annual HVHB Homebrew Competition Hudson Valley HomeBrewers,inc. AHA Sanctioned 5th Annual Homebrew Competition Saturday March 25th, 1995 at River Station Restaurant 25 Main Street Poughkeepsie, New York 12601 Schedule of Events 8:00 River Station opens to Judges and Stewards 9:00 Calibration Beer, Judging to follow 12:30 Break for Lunch - Restaurant opens 10am to Public 1:00 Resume Judging 3:00 Best of Show - Judging Area Open to Public 3:30 Announcement of Raffle Winners 3:45 Competition Prizes to be Awarded 4:00 Distribution of Remaining Beer Entries for Sampling Participation Open to All Non-Commercial Brewers How to Enter: Entries accepted: March 1st to March 18th, 1995 (5pm) 3 bottles: 10-14 Ounces (No raised glass or labels) per entry (Entry Information and Restrictions inside) PRIZES 1st, 2nd and 3rd places in each category: Ribbons and Certificates. 1st in each category: Hudson Valley Homebrewers Tee-Shirt and $15 Gift Certificate 2nd in each category: $7.50 Gift Certificate 3rd in each category: $5.00 Gift Certificate 1st, 2nd and 3rd in Club Awards: $30 for 1st, $20 for second, and $10 for 3rd BREWMASTERS CUP Trophy and Brewing Session at Matthew Vassar's Brew House Best of Show: 1st - Case of Alexanders Malt donated by Party Creations 2nd - Woodstock Brewing Company Sweatshirt and glasses Colonna Capper & Corker 3rd - Case of Brewferm Malts Top Hudson Valley HomeBrewers Club Member (Total Points) - $100 Family Portrait from Concept Photography Entries may be UPS directly to Party Creations only Party Creations RD 2 Box 35 Rokeby Road Red Hook, NY 12571 (914) 758-0661 Entry Information & Restrictions ENTRY REQUIREMENTS 1. Entry must be home brewed ... NO commercial brew allowed, Amateurs only! 2. Entry fee is $5.00... five(5) or more entries are $4.00 for each entry. Make all checks payable to Robert Carter. 3. Brewers may enter only one (1) beer per SUBCATEGORY. 4. Brewers must submit 3 (three) bottles, 10-14 ounces per entry with no distinguishing marks, raised glass (NO GROLSCH) or labels (painted or otherwise). Caps should be plain or any writing blacked out. 5. Each bottle must have a completed bottle tag fastened by rubber bands only. NO TAPE ALLOWED! 6. Please fill out only one entry/recipe form per entry. 7. If subcategory indicates multiple styles (e.g. Pilsener, Bohemian or German) please indicate which style you would like it judged as on the brewers comment line on the recipe form. 8. Entries should be dropped off or shipped to addresses listed on cover page. All entry fees, and recipe forms must accompany entries when submitted No entry will be returned and all entries become the property of the Hudson Valley Homebrewers, inc. 9. ENTRY DEADLINE IS 5:00PM, SATURDAY, MARCH 18, 1995. This allows time for settling and processing of your entry. Call ahead for any other entry or delivery arrangements. CONTEST RULES 1. All forms required by the rules must be completed by entrant. 2. Beers will be judged in the category entered. Reassignment of beers entered in wrong categories is prohibited. 3. Decision of the judges is final. 4. Only beers rated GOOD (scoring 25 points or higher) will qualify for awards and prizes. 5. Categories with less than six (6) entries will be collapsed to category that most closely resembles its style. 6. First place winners in each category will compete for Best of Show. 7. Club quality awards will be calculated from the top three winners of each category. 8. Score sheets will be returned as soon as possible - Including a self- addressed, stamped envelope will speed them on their way to you. 9. Any entry not meeting the above guidelines will be disqualified. SHIPPING PACK YOUR ENTRIES WELL! We recommend shipping by United Parcel Service. If asked the contents of your package by UPS tell them Bottles, but they are double-boxed and well padded. Be sure to ship them to Party Creations with the required entry fee, recipe form and bottle labels rubber-banded. Competition questions should be directed to: Robert Carter 34 Townsend Ave. Newburgh, N.Y. 12550 (914) 565-3921 Judging questions should be directed to: Paul Stolarski 37 Shaker Lane Hyde Park, N.Y. 12538 (914) 229-7316 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 15:48:48 -0500 From: PRYBAK at aol.com Subject: flaked rice Hi! I have about a pound of flaked rice and would like to use it in an extract batch. Is it possible to mash the rice without any grains? If so what mash schedule should I use? Thanks - email okay! Paul Rybak Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 16:18:33 -0600 From: rlarsen at squeaky.free.org (Rich Larsen) Subject: Constant Stirred Mash / stains / chiller pump / Miller Celis Deal / acid washing Have the results of the constant stirred mash ever been posted? I.E. Did it increase astrigency, extract rate. How was the beer? ____________ >From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Reminded me about streaking walls. This is due to the humidity produced when boiling the wort. The brown/colored streaks are due to dripping moisture. The solution? Wash the walls occasionally. (no jab at anyone's cleanliness) Ronald also says he has a wood burning stove. The dirt on his walls is probably soot from the stove. Smokers will also notice a marked increase in this phenomenom. _______________ >From: Pulsifer at aol.com writes : > > My wife decided to come over and see what this contraption was. She >wanted to know it worked. I told here you put it in the pot and ran water >through it for 15 to 20 minutes. She thought it would use "too much" water. >I told here that I could get a pump and recicrulate ice water from the other >section of the sink (sounds like approval to spend more money). > > I found what could be a very good solution. I was going to get an >aquarium power head. They are completely submersible, have suction cups for >attaching to side of sink and some have a plastic filter over the intake >(keeps ice chunks out of the pump). ummm... if you are planning on running the hot output from the chiller over the ice and recirculating it through the chiller in a "closed" system you are going to melt all your ice in the first few minutes. The initial output from a immersion chiller actually steams. I suggest you slow your water flow down a bit and stir the wort constantly during the chilling. Granted I have a 50 foot coil of 3/8 copper tube, but I chill 7 gallons of boiling liquid down to pitching temperature in around 5 minutes using this method. _____________________ On the Miller - Celis deal: I'm probably opening myself up as flame bait with this one, but a similar deal was struck with Linenkugels a while ago and as far as I noticed it has done nothing but helped Linenkugels business. I'm hoping that Miller will help Celis distribute more of his good product to more areas that he couldn't reach before, thus helping to educate the unninitiated just that much more. Now if AB had bought him out... that would be a different story. _____________________ >Date: Mon, 06 Mar 1995 02:25:19 -0800 (PST) >From: PGILLMAN at POMONA.EDU asks >does anyone know the ph levels that commercial breweries use when they >wash yeast with tartaric acid to remove the trub and contaminants? >i tend to brew batches back to back, and would like to attempt this >procedure in order to extend the number i can do using a single yeast. You want to get as close to a ph of 2.0 as possible. This will knock out most of the bacteria, but will not do anything to the wild yeasts or trub. ___________ => Rich <rlarsen at squeaky.free.org> ________________________________________________________________________ Rich Larsen, Midlothian, IL. Also on HomeBrew University (708) 705-7263 Variety is the spice of life. ________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 1995 16:57:23 EST From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Subject: CLUB ADDRESS UPDATES--Is ZYMURGY listing correct for your club? We'd like to be able to update our mailing/newsletter-exchange list. If your present club address is NOT the same as the most recent AHA/ZYMURGY club list, please let me know. Although I'm sure we're not the only ones interested in such information, out of consideration for digest bw, make it private email. I suppose if you're posting something anyway, another line for an address correction wouldn't hurt, but certainly don't post to the digest just to give an address correction. And while you're writing to me, let me know if you want to designate a club email contact. Now go have a beer, Bob Paolino / Disoriented in Badgerspace / uswlsrap at ibmmail.com "If I could see...if I could See all the symbols, unlock what they mean, Maybe I could, maybe I could, maybe I Could meet the artists, and get to know them personally."-Those crazy WPG boys Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 16:06:14 -0600 (CST) From: afmccaul at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Tony McCauley) Subject: 4th Central ILL HBC Results The ABNormal Brewers hosted the 4th Annual Central Illinois Homebrew Competition on March 4, 1995. The competition drew 98 entries in 14 flights. Congratulations to all of the winners. Brown Ale - 7 entries 1st -- Dave Lubertozzi - Brewers of South Suburbia 2nd -- Ed Wolfe & Carol Ligouri - THIRSTY 3rd -- Ed Wolfe & Carol Ligouri - THIRSTY English Pale Ale - 5 entries 1st -- Roger Meridith - Central Illinois Brewers Assoc 2nd -- Tom Fitzpatrick - Chicago Beer Society 3rd -- John Griffiths - Fayettesvill Lovers of Pure Suds American Pale Ale - 10 entries 1st -- Mark Kellums - Central Illinois Brewers Assoc 2nd -- Steve Stacy - Missouri Assoc. of Serious Homebrewers 3rd -- Eddie Brian - THIRSTY English Bitters & Scottish Ales - 6 entries 1st -- Mike Hansen - THIRSTY 2nd -- J.D. Eichman - Inland Empire Brewers 3rd -- Ed Wolfe & Carol Ligouri - THIRSTY Porter - 5 entries 1st -- Bob DeVries - not affiliated 2nd -- Roger Meridith - Central Illinois Brewers Assoc 3rd -- Steven Solick - not affiliated Barley Wine, English and Scotch Strong Ale & Imperial Stout - 8 entries 1st -- Dennis Davison - Chicago Beer Society 2nd -- Dennis Davison - Chicago Beer Society 3rd -- John Yoder - ABNormal Brewers Stout - 8 entries 1st -- Mark Soboleski - Beer Brewers of Central Connecticut 2nd -- Dennis Flaherty - not affiliated 3rd -- Dave Beedle - ABNormal Brewers German Lager & Classic Pilsener - 9 entries 1st -- Tim Artz - Brewers United for Real Potables 2nd -- Bob DeVries - not affiliated 3rd -- Steven Solick - not affiliated Bock, Bavarian Dark & Vienna, Marzen/Oktoberfest - 5 entries 1st -- John Griffiths - Fayettesvill Lovers of Pure Suds 2nd -- Dave Lubertozzi - Brewers of South Suburbia 3rd -- Micheal Garcia-Gualdoni - not affiliated American Lager & California Common - 7 entries 1st -- J.D. Eichman - Inland Empire Brewers 2nd -- Mike Riddle - Marin Society of Homebrewers 3rd -- Ed Wolfe & Carol Ligouri - THIRSTY German Ale - 5 entries 1st -- Tom McDaniel - THIRSTY 2nd -- Thomas Grant - Merrimack Valley Brewers 3rd -- Dave Holsclaw - ABNormal Brewers German Wheat & American Wheat - 7 entries 1st -- Dennis Davison - Chicago Beer Society 2nd -- J.D. Eichman - Inland Empire Brewers 3rd -- Ed Wolfe & Carol Ligouri - THIRSTY Belgian Beers, Fruit Beers, Herb Beers & Speciality Beers - 9 entries 1st -- Eddie Brian - THIRSTY 2nd -- Tim Artz - Brewers United for Real Potables 3rd -- Jay McNiel - not affiliated Traditional Mead & Fruit Mead 1st -- Dennis Davison - Chicago Beer Society 2nd -- Alan Carder - ABNormal Brewers 3rd -- Dave Holsclaw - ABNormal Brewers Best of Show -- Dennis Davison -- Berliner Weisse 2nd BOS -- Dennis Davison -- Still Cranberry Mead 3rd BOS -- Roger Meridith -- English Pale Ale The BOS judges quickly cut the field to 4 beers before the tough negotiating started. The first beer to get cut was Dennis Davison's Imperial Stout. Dennis came very close to a sweep of the BOS round. Needless to say, Dennis was gloating. Congratulations on the fine showing, Dennis. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 17:14:48 -0500 From: TPuskar at aol.com Subject: "Free" carboys/Freezing yeasts Somewhere over the past week or so I read that both photo processing shops and metal finishing shops get various chemicals and reagents in glass carboys and often pitch them out after using the chemicals. I can't find the original post/article to respond to the poster. Does anyone have any info on this? Can we really get "free" carboys? I don't know what chemicals might be delivered in these things but would be concerned about cleaning. Anything that phjot developers use probably won't do a homebrew much good. Frugal Brewer are you out there? Any comments? I've just been given a yeast sample that has been described as "irreplaceable" and would like to store it for posterity. I'm afraid that it might mutate is kept only on slants or plates and was thinking about freezing it in glycerol. Like my home autoclave, my liquid nitrogen tank is on the fritz <g> so I was going to just freeze it in the better halfs freezer--if I can find room amongst the hops! ;-) Can anyone tell me if normal household glycerol is acceptable. Does it have to be treated, read sanitized, in any way before adding the yeasties? Should I just scrape as much off a slant or plate as I can and mix real well or can I take some slurry from the bottom of a starter and mix it about 2:1 (in favor glycerol) and freeze that. Any comments would be appreciated. Apologies to Dominick Venezia--I know you commented on this once before, but that was when I was just getting started and I can't find your post. Finally, what category does ouatmeal stout fall into for the AHA style based competitions? Is it in the classic dry category or can it vary by sponsor definition? TIA Tom Puskar Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Mar 95 15:03:00 -0600 From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: pellet dryhopping/"stuck" ferment/magnetic SS/hop tree/DMS yeast Tracy writes: >Al's comment that "his [friend's] beer did smell great" >upon dryhopping with pellets leads me to ask if you have >found other hop forms, particularly plugs, offer a poorer >quality? I've had several packages of extremely bad plugs, but they were few and far between. The distributor did not hesitate to replace them. Their quality was obviously bad upon opening. In stead of the wonderful, familiar hop aroma they smelled cheezy or like hay. Well-packaged hops of all types (pellets, plugs, whole) all have fine aromatic properties. Actually, pellets seem to have the most intense aroma. This is not surprising since the lupulin glands have been broken open during the pelletizing. No, actually, what I meant was, that despite all the troubles my friend had bottling (he had put the pellets into his keg and they clogged the diptube), the beer had a great aroma. The one time I used pellets was in the primary and I think that I may have put them in too early. Shortly after I added the pellets, they sank and then were covered up by settling yeast. The resulting beer had a rather faint hop nose, far weaker than a similar beer made with whole hops. >I will admit to having tried dryhopping with plugs >and not caring for the _flavor_ (don't recall aroma problems). >It seemed to add a slight resiny character. It was not a >flaw with the beer to start with, honest! I don't believe it >to have been the hop variety either. I did talk to one other >person who felt that they noticed this same effect. Has >anyone else noticed this effect? "Resiny" is a term I use to describe the nose on several varieties of hops, most notably East Kent Goldings, British Columbian Goldings, Styrian Goldings and Nugget. Did you use one of these hops? Also, flavour and aroma are rather intimately linked. Without our noses, we can only sense four flavours, the ones we call "tastes." Combined with our sense of smell, the four tastes linked with the hundreds of aromas we can distinguish are what we term as "flavours." ***** David writes: >The yeast began to work almost immediately and blew off gasses hard for 24 >hours. After it slowed I removed the blowoff and attached the airlock late >that evening. The next morning the bubbles were already at one per minute. >What caused this sudden reduction in activity? I checked the temperature >and it was at 75, I dropped the temp to around 70 but no activity resumed. >What can I do now? Wait a week for the yeast to settle and bottle. It's just about done. At 75F it is not uncommon for a batch of beer to completely ferment in two to three days. This is the most common question I answer from beginners. They are surprised that beer can be done in a few days. Often they miss the fermentation completely. They pitch the yeast and then come back to look at the airlock two days later and there is no activity. Yes, but... there is almost always a brown ring of crud in the fermenter, just above the level of the beer. This ring is what I ask the brewers to look for (I'm usually answering these questions on the phone) and inevitably it's there. I tell them that they simply missed the main part of the action and that the ale should be ready to bottle in about a week or so. **** Lee writes: >stainless. Magnet. Nope, wasn't stainless. There are some types of stainless steel that are ferromagnetic. **** Don writes about the Hop Family Tree. In some cases it does help to know the genetic relationships of hops, but in most cases, it does not. Cascades, for example, were an attempt, if memory serves correctly, to be a Fuggle replacement. You can smell that as a Fuggle replacement it was a catastrophic failure, but I personally love the grapefruity aroma of Cascades and am glad that the the experiment went astray. Also, consider that Fuggles and Styrian Goldings are related, but in my opinion, Styrian Goldings have a resiny aroma that has more in common with East Kent Goldings than the woody, earthy Fuggles. If indeed Chinook is related to EKG, then that was another experiment that took an unexpected turn -- the two hops couldn't smell more different. **** Mario writes: >Has anyone had trouble with Wyeast California Lager producing DMS? I have not. Some yeasts have a tendancy to produce sulphury aromas, but none that produce DMS. DMS can be produced by bacteria, however. You may have gotten a bacterial infection that took till conditioning time to reach sensory threshold. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 18:27:00 EST From: TIMF at RELAY.RELAY.COM (Tim Fields) Subject: Holy Bananas (as I recall) I tried to reply to the recent posting here in HBD regarding banana flavors using Wyeast 1214 - but I ran afoul of the message length limit :). Whomever you are, pls drop me an email note with an address and I will send you some good info re this yeast in particular, and re Belgian ales in general. It was compiled by members of a local bew club here (BURP). It should be available via HBD archives as well (or so it indicates). Tim Fields timf at relay.relay.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 18:25:28 -0500 From: Dave Coombs <coombs at cme.nist.gov> Subject: Re: Flat beer larrymerkel at i-link.net (Larry Merkel) has a few flat beers in an otherwise consistently carbonated batch (unless I misread). >> now). Any ideas? Some possibilities: >> >> The caps didn't seal well on the flat ones. That has happened to me. I finally thought ot look at the cap and saw that the seal had come loose from the metal (probably during boiling) and therefore hadn't seated properly. I just soak caps in bleach now. >> The priming sugar didn't distribute well in the carboy. This is possible. I usually put the priming solution in the bottom of the bottling vessel just as I start racking into it from the fermenter. The beer jet from the siphon mixes it all quite nicely. >> The bottles that were flat had some infection that killed the yeast >> and kept those from carbonating. The bottles were sanitized for 4 hours in >> 15 gallons of water and 3/4 cup bleach. They were all clean to the naked >> eye before being sanitized. It's possible that was too much bleach, but if most of the batch was fine, I doubt this is your problem. dave ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Coombs david.coombs at nist.gov National Institute of Standards & Technology Tel: (301) 975-2865 Intelligent Systems Division FAX: (301) 990-9688 Building 220 Room B-124 recep: (301) 975-3441 Gaithersburg MD 20899 USA http://isd.cme.nist.gov/staff/coombs/ Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1675, 03/09/95