HOMEBREW Digest #1688 Fri 24 March 1995

Digest #1687 Digest #1689

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Stuck at 1020 (Jonathan Ward)
  Digest experts read!!!!!! ("Lee C. Bussy")
  ON the air, WHEAT (Jack Schmidling)
  Growing Hops and determining AA (TPuskar)
  Re: Internet Brewing Resources... (Mark A. Stevens)
  Reno Brewpubs (Jeff Nielsen/Atlanta)
  Dry hopping / Phenolic fans / M&F Malt (Keith Frank)
  Flaked Wheat/ Racking from kettle ("Drink up lad. There's no bones in it!")
  GA Brewpubs/Mead/Artic ("pratte")
  Re: Orange Peel (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Awesome Marijuana Beer Recipe! (MnMGuy)
  Re: Tax treatment of hard cider (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Pressure brewing (MnMGuy)
  RE: Saison Ale-recipe and notes (Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna)
  moving hops (RONALD DWELLE)
  Growing hops ("v.f. daveikis")
  Fifth Annual March Mashfest _Results_ (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist))
  Re:  The Fermentap Review (Mark Prazer)
  Minor correction to Clasic Am. Pilsner style (Jeff Renner)
  Re:  Vented Boils, Desert Hops, Roasted Barley (Nic Herriges)
  maibock recipe? ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
  Fermtap looks cool! (Matthew J. Harper)
  cancel subscription ("Tonkyn, John C")
  Brewing Study in Belgium (michael j dix)
  Pre-Prohibition Lager (Yeastbud)
  Internet beer resources (Philip Gravel)
  Cooler Mashout ("Robert W. Mech")
  Racking (Gregory J Egle)

****************************************************************** * NEW POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 06:47:54 -0500 (EST) From: Jonathan Ward <JWARD at delphi.com> Subject: Stuck at 1020 HBDers I'm a year into homebrewing and I have an embarassingly simple problem. Stuck fermentation. I have been at 1020 for the last week and a half, and am nearing the end of my rope. Details: Pale ale, OG around 1050. Pitched a second generation Chico Ale (worked the first time) and had a good two day's worth of fermentation. Oh, wort was 6 or so lbs dry malt extract, 1 lb crystal malt. After two weeks, I repitched with rehydrated dry ale yeast and shook pretty vigously in a lame attempt to reaerate (although I know adding air at this point isn't a great idea). After minimal bubbling for a week, there has been no real change. The beer has been at about 70F the whole time. Theories: 1) Both yeasts were bad. Unlikely. 2) Lots of unfermentables in wort, so 1020 is right FG. Can't believe that. I used M&F light. 3) Not enough air in wort. This seems reasonably likely, since I get impatient with shaking carboys. But it hasn't happened before. I know liquid yeasts need a lot of oxygen (and second generations even more so) so this is my suspicion. But enough theories. What should I do? Thinking that I had cured the problem, I dry hopped the beer after introducing the dry yeast. And I don't mind the taste of it (flat and warm). So should I just keg? Or rerack, add yeast nutrients, more yeast and wait some more? (And if I do option 2, should I try to aerate through sloppy racking and a little carboy shaking? E-mailed opinions will be great. I will do whatever gets the most votes, and report the results if I get more than 10 opinions. Thanks. Jonathan Ward Chicago, IL [JWard at delphi.com] P.S. -- Has anyone tried Blue Ridge Lager by micro Rainbow Ridge Brewing Co. Slick blue bottles, no adjuncts, employee ownership and a '93 GABF gold. I have never tasted a better Bud/Coors/Miller clone, and certainly not as expensive. Maybe it's too subtle for my hops-driven palate, but I won't spend another $6 on that again. `[1;34;42mRainbow V 1.12 for Delphi - Test Drive Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 07:11:55 +0000 From: "Lee C. Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Digest experts read!!!!!! I'm looking for an elusive thing called an Un-digester. I know some have the ability to chop up the digest into individual messages and this would be very handy for me and assist in answering some of the posts that I might be able to help with. TIA ...Oh, BTW, Beer beer beer beer beer beer beer. There, on track again! - -- -Lee Bussy | The 4 Basic Foodgroups.... | leeb at southwind.net | Salt, Fat, Beer & Women! | Wichita, Kansas | http://www.southwind.net/~leeb | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 07:14 CST From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: ON the air, WHEAT Our move to the country is now complete and the first trial run of the new brewery is in the "lagering room". The MM factory is back on line in its new 3000 sq ft home. The brewery is in its own 500 sq ft mini barn and it really is fun to have everything in its place instead of having to set things up each time I brew. The EASYSPARGER is now history because of water complications and I have the sparge water heater in the loft and it is gravity fed to the mash tun right below. The mash tun is gravity fed to the boiler and the chilled wort from the boiler is pumped to the fermenter in the fridge. I had a few unplanned problems with either too much or not enough hot water on the first run but I think I have it figured out for the next. The good news is that the well water seems to make fine beer. I still have not been able to locate my pH meter but the mash proceeded as normal with the usual extract yield of 33 pts and the beer tastes normal. The water is very hard and has a strong sulphur smell but it dissipates within an hour if just left out and immediately upon boiling. I got 60 lbs of wheat for $5 from a farmer down the road and 25 lbs of corn from another for a beer so it's tough to stick to the Reinhightsgbot tradition with that kind of stuff around. The last batch had two lbs of corn and I am going to try wheat in the next, which brings me to..... >From: kr_roberson at ccmail.pnl.gov >I have a MaltMill (tm, etc, etc) that I use for grinding, and I wanted to relate my experience with raw wheat so far. I've made two white beers with 50% raw wheat, the first with hard red and the second with soft white. Boys and girls when they say hard as in "hard red" they are not kidding. I was grinding with a drill motor and the ol MM would seize up if ANY backed up in the rollers. No loading up the hopper on this stuff. I had to unload the hopper several times before I was done. Major pain. Pouring it in slowly in a very thin stream did the trick...... I have done a bit of experimenting on wheat and pretty much agree with your comments. The MM was designed to crush malt and what ever you can do with raw grain should be considered a bonus. Even the MMII with a 1 hp motor can only take wheat at about 10% of the rate for malt. Here is one place where an adjustable mill can speed things up as you can run the wheat through wide open much faster and a second pass at the nominal setting full tilt. I milled 15 lbs that way and then ran it through the Corona to make flour and it worked very well. Just for reference, the Corona is no picknic either on wheat and it has to be run through several times to get good flour (for bread). Question? Does raw wheat need to be pre-boiled like corn to gelatinize it? If not, why not? js Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 08:33:35 -0500 From: TPuskar at aol.com Subject: Growing Hops and determining AA I'm thinking of growing my own hops but was wondering how I would determine alpha acid content. I saw the recent posts regarding spectrophotometric analysis, but like my liquid nitrogen tank and autoclave, my UV-Vis spec is out for repairs.<G> Many of you guys out there are associated with universities and commercial labs and have easy access to analytical capabilities. How 'bout us *really* homebrewers who have to make due with classic kitchen chemistry. How can we determine AA? Is there a lab somewhere where I could send dried hop flowers and have AA determined? How stable will the content be if stored properly (in freezer?). Has anyone out there in Central NJ (Monmouth, Ocean cty) tried growing their own hops? Does our soil, ran, etc support hop growing? TIA Tom Puskar Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 08:36:32 -0500 From: stevens at stsci.edu (Mark A. Stevens) Subject: Re: Internet Brewing Resources... In HBD 1687, Patrick Babcock (usfmchql at ibmmail.com) asked for a compilation of network resources dealing with brewing. There are some of these compilations available through the world wide web. The most exhaustive is probably the World Wide Web Virtual Library: Beer and Brewing page, maintained by John Locke. John's done an excellent job of exhaustively searching out brewing resources on the net and creating a usable index of them. The URL is: http://www.mindspring.com/~jlock/wwwbeer.html Spencer Thomas also has a quite exhaustive list on his beer page. The URL is: http://guraldi.itn.med.umich.edu/Beer/ On the Brewery site (of which I am one of several maintainers), there is a list of Online resources that we feel are very close to the subject of homebrewing. We're not as exhaustive as John or Spencer because we limit our links to only those resources that deal with homebrewing as opposed to beer appreciation in general, and we limit it to sites offering useful information that doesn't duplicate what we, or Spencer, or other sites already provide. Our URL is: http://alpha.rollanet.org/Online.html Hope this helps. Cheers! - ---Mark Stevens stevens at stsci.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Mar 95 09:05:02 EST From: Jeff Nielsen/Atlanta <70273.574 at compuserve.com> Subject: Reno Brewpubs I'll be laying over in Reno, Nevada next week, and I'd like to visit a local brewpub if Reno has any. I've already looked in the publist, and didn't see any listings for Reno. I'll be staying in a downtown hotel and I don't have access to a car. ************* I'm having trouble attaining the appropriate final gravities since I switched to using Cornelious kegs as fermenters. For example, my pale ales (1.045-1.055 O.G.) finish in the 1.020-1.022 range. My latest brew was a stout (1.078 O.G.) that finished at 1.034! Yeast used in my pale ales were Wyeast 1968 Special London and Wyeast 1056 American Ale. The stout was fermented with Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale. Yes, I made starters, pitching one to two quarts. These are all-grain brews; aeration with a venturi tube during racking from the boiling kettle to soda keg. I've read here in the past that the geometry of these kegs aren't really optimum. Do I need to do something more elaborate with aeration? I really like the convenience of using these 5 gallon kegs as fermenters. Can anyone out there help me with my poor attenuation problem? Jeff Nielsen Sweat Mountain Brewing Co. Marietta, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 08:44:59 -0600 From: keithfrank at dow.com (Keith Frank) Subject: Dry hopping / Phenolic fans / M&F Malt ********** from Bruce DeBolt *************** 1. Dry Hopping There have been a few more notes about siphoning problems from a dry hopped secondary using pellets. I've encountered no problems by using a nylon grain bag (from any homebrew store), tied off at the end of the racking cane with a plastic twist tie. The whole thing is sanitized in iodophor solution and shaken before plunging in the secondary. This gives you lots of surface area and "folds". While it flows a little slower than the cane alone, it hasn't come close to clogging yet. May work better than the nylon hose technique which I haven't tried yet. I just made my first "grassy" flavored beer from dry hopping. It was a Redhook ESB clone posted by Michael Lloyd on Jan. 11, which called for 1 oz. of Tettnanger dry hopped in the secondary. I've used Tettnanger in a brown ale before without this problem, also Cascade and Liberty in other styles with no problems. It's been in the bottle for one month, and the grassiness seems to be fading slightly. The hops were pellets, a '93 U.S. crop which had been in my freezer in a polypropylene screw top container (St. Pat's) for about 6-7 months. I checked Miller, Papazian, De Clerk, and Garetz for insight. The Garetz book was the only one with any information on this problem. He states that grassiness will fade with time. I know from experience this is true with bitterness and aroma. Someone on the digest, I think Al Korzonas, stated recently that certain hops are known for giving a grassy flavor. Forgive my inability to search past digests as I only have access through Keith Frank's good graces and don't want to burden him too much. My questions: 1. Is "grassiness" due to hop variety, age, amount, or a combination of factors? 2. Will this tend to fade with time? 3. Any direct experiences with U.S. Tettnanger? 4. Garetz states, on page 192, that if you dry hop you should also use finishing hops (late boil addition) and while it is OK to use finishing hops without dry hopping, it generally is not OK the other way around. Any comments on this? I've not noticed any problems dry hopping without finishing hops. 2. Phenolic Flavor Lovers Dave Draper's post not too long ago about making American Wheat Beers (he doesn't like phenolics) and Jim Busch's reply (yuk!) made me wonder where these preferences come from. I'm in Dave's camp, can't stand the phenolics. When I was in elementary school back in the sixties we used to get a certain brand of paste in plastic tubs with a stiff brush in the middle of it. Some kids used to eat the paste, others didn't. The classes were clearly divided along these lines. I've been told it had phenol in it, it certainly smelled like it if memory serves me correctly. I was one of the non-eaters. So - are the phenolic flavor lovers former paste eaters? 3. M&F Malt - The quality of this malt has been mentioned many times but I can't find it for sale locally or in Zymurgy or Brewing Techniques, maybe I've missed something in an ad. Where can I buy the grain? TIA, Bruce DeBolt Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 09:10:38 PST From: Glen_Baldridge at ccmail.medicus.com Subject: HELP ACCESS ARCHIVE VIA FTPMAIL I am trying (unsuccessfully) to get archive information using ftpmail through ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com (via CC:Mail). I have tried several times to get various items out, but with the same result: I recieve a "message recieved" note saying my request will be processed, and then after several days, nothing. Below is a message I sent to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com to try to get the readme.ftp file: connect get README.ftp quit What am I doing wrong? What should the commands be to get an index of the brew articles? Do I need my id somewhere in the connect string? Private or public e-mail is fine. If private, I'll post solution once I get it right. TIA, Glen Baldridge (glen_baldridge at ccmail.medicus.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 09:57:07 EST From: "Drink up lad. There's no bones in it!" <johnm at giant.IntraNet.com> Subject: Flaked Wheat/ Racking from kettle I've seen a number of people suggest substituting flaked wheat for unmalted wheat. Is this a pound for pound substitution? Someone was asking about expereinces racking from the kettle. I have been doing it with a copper scrubby over the racking cane. I use a short length of tubing leading to the funnel with strainer on top of the carboy. This catches some additional junk as well as provides some aeration as the wort drops throught the screen. John McCafferty Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 10:27:48 EST From: "pratte" <PRATTE at GG.csc.peachnet.edu> Subject: GA Brewpubs/Mead/Artic 1. I haven't seen a post on this yet, but for all Georgians, the brewpub law PASSED. After the governor signs the law (Zell should), brewpubs will be legal come July 1. Thank goodness we'll have them in time for the Olympics. 2. For Stephen Tinsley: I'm not sure what's wrong with your mead, but don't bet on it being finished in just a month (like Papazian says). I've only made one batch (SG 1.087), but it took over 4 months to complete fermentation. That seems to be in line with the experience of others I've talked to about it. 3. For Hunter: There were several post on the Artic misspelling several months back. The reason for it is so that they can't be sued in some states for misadvertising (The beer is not brewed in the Arctic nor is there a style of beer called Arctic.). It may be cynical to say so, but in the future, we will probably just start spelling it that way (Note how many people spell light "lite" after Miller came out with their beer.). John ________________________________________________________________ Dr. John M. Pratte pratte at gg.csc.peachnet.edu Clayton State College Office (404)961-3674 Morrow, GA 30260 Fax (404)961-3700 ________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 11:09:20 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: Orange Peel Aaron Shaw wrote about Orange Peel: > do not use oranges that are "orange", because they > have been dyed for appearance. As far as I know, this is not true. Do you have real evidence to back up this statement? The color of an orange depends on the temperature at which it matures. The colder it is (within limits :-), the oranger the orange, the thicker its skin, and the more sour it tastes. (Obviously, variation between varieties affects these factors, too.) Oranges grown in very hot climates never turn orange. Oranges grown in colder places (e.g., California) do. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 11:18:22 -0500 From: MnMGuy at aol.com Subject: Awesome Marijuana Beer Recipe! Aw, hell. I forgot it.... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 11:31:07 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: Tax treatment of hard cider Here's the bill. Bert Grant should be happy. 104th CONGRESS 1st Session To amend the Internal Revenue Code of 1986 to clarify the excise tax treatment of hard apple cider. IN THE SENATE OF THE UNITED STATES February 14 (legislative day, January 30), 1995 Mr. Leahy (for himself and Mr. Jeffords) introduced the following bill; which was read twice and referred to the Committee on Finance A BILL To amend the Internal Revenue Code of 1986 to clarify the excise tax treatment of hard apple cider. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled, SECTION 1. CLARIFICATION OF TAX TREATMENT OF HARD APPLE CIDER. (a) Hard Apple Cider Containing Not More Than 7 Percent Alcohol Taxed as Beer: Subsection (a) of section 5052 of the Internal Revenue Code of 1986 (relating to definitions) is amended to read as follows: `(a) Beer: For purposes of this chapter (except when used with reference to distilling or distilling material)-- `(1) In general: The term `beer' means beer, ale, porter, stout, and other similar fermented beverages (including sake or similar products) of any name or description containing one-half of 1 percent or more of alcohol by volume brewed or produced from malt, wholly or in part, or from any substitute therefor. `(2) Hard apple cider: The term `beer' includes a beverage-- `(A) derived wholly (except for sugar, water, or added alcohol) from apples containing at least one-half of 1 percent and not more than 7 percent of alcohol by volume, and `(B) produced by a person who produces more than 100,000 wine gallons of such beverage during the calendar year.'. (b) Conforming Amendment: Subsection (a) of section 5041 of the Internal Revenue Code of 1986 (relating to imposition and rate of tax) is amended by striking `wine)' and inserting `wine, but not including hard apple cider described in section 5052(a)(2))'. (c) Effective Date: The amendments made by this section shall apply on and after the date of enactment of this Act. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 11:37:03 -0500 From: MnMGuy at aol.com Subject: Pressure brewing I had a brewing science fiction idea while in bottle washing Zen last night: This idea came from two sources: First, the "brew in a bag" concept where the wort (mixture, whatever) ferments in a sealed bag and thus carbonates itself in primary. Second, Charlie's entry in his Companion book about the brewer in Arizona who submerged his fermenter in his pool to keep it cool. Wouldn't the submerged beer be partially carbonated at ground (sea) level? What if we fermented beer at a depth of ninety feet (which is a pressure level of 3 atmospheres)? As long as there was an air (water?) lock to equalize pressure within the fermenter, wouldn't the result be fermented, carbonated beer? Anybody know how many psi one atmosphere is? What psi is carbonated beer? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 11:48:12 EST From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna at RELAY.COM Subject: RE: Saison Ale-recipe and notes John McCafferty asks: >Can anyone out there recommend a WYEAST strain for brewing a Saison >ale? >Should I be looking at the belgian Abbey 1214? or the Belgain White >beer >3944? Any other strains ? Anyone have a recipe(all grain) they would >like to >share? Anyone have some notes on the flavor profile for this style? >TIA. I assume you are looking for a recipe similar to Saison DuPont - If not - sorry :) If so, the following recipe and info comes via BURP. Tim Fields Timf at relay.com >Jeff Frane's Splendid Strong Ale >GUMMITCH at TELEPORT.COM > >DeWolf-Cosyns pilsner malt 9 pounds >DeWolf-Cosyns aromatic malt 0.6 pounds >DeWolf-Cosyns caramunich 1 pound >Flaked maize 1 pound >Light candy sugar 1.5 pounds > >BC Goldings 1 oz boiled for 15 mins >Mt Hood 1 oz boiled for 15 minutes >Saaz 0.25 oz boiled for 60 minutes > >Made 5.75 gallons at 1.062 > >Mash in the malts (not the maize) at 98F in 3.5 gallons water and adjust pH. > Raise to >120F and hold for 30 minutes. Raise to 153, add maize, and hold until > conversion (about >45 minutes). Raise to 175 for 15 minutes for mashout. > >Add sugar to kettle and boil for 90 minutes. At 1/2 tablespoon rehydrated Iris > moss to >boil for 75 minutes. > >Ferment with Wyeast White (#1994), prime with 1 cup corn sugar. NOTES follow: >Brewing Belgian Beers (#5): Strong ales > >Description: > > 1.062-1.120, 6-12% ABV, 16-30 IBU, 3.5-20 SRM > Pale to dark brown. Low hop bitterness and aroma ok, should blend with > other flavors. > Medium to high esters in flavor and aroma. Phenols ok. Often highly > aromatic. Spices or > orange ok. Strength evident, but alchohol flavor subdued or absent. > Medium to full body, > sometimes with a high terminal gravity. Medium to high carbonation. No > roasted flavors > or diacetyl. > >Belgian strong ale recipes are usually formulated to show off yeast character, > with all other >ingredients playing a supporting role. The flavor may be subtly complex, but > should not be >crowded. Body is comparatively light for beers of this strength, due to use of > brewing adjuncts or >of pilsner malt only. High carbonation also helps; these beers should feel lik > mousse on the >palate and have an impressive head. The best examples may be noticeably strong > but still have no >alchohol flavor. Flemish examples tend toward higher terminal gravities > (1.025-1.050), while >Walloon versions are usually more attenuated. ------ >Brewing method: > >Yeast choice is absolutely crucial, as the yeast will provide the foundation > flavors for the beer and >all other ingredients should be added to support or accentuate them. As with > all beers of this >strength, high pitching rates and agressive aeration are necessary. > Fermentation temperatures >should be cool (below 65F) to avoid creation of headache-causing fusels. > >Infusion or step mashing techniques are standard procedure. Most commercial > versions use >pilsner malt as a base, but many also use substantial quantities of sugar or > flaked corn as an >adjunct. Caramel, Munich and toasted malts are often used in small quantities; > roasted malts are >sometimes used in very small amounts for coloring only. All classic hop > varieties are common, >but are used in small and judicious quantities. Sugars are added in the kettle > as are spices. Many >spices have delicate aromas and should be boiled for just a few minutes, if at > all. Common >choices are bitter or sweet orange peel, coriander, vanilla, and anise. > >Extract brewers will do fine in this category. Start with pale extract, adding > judicious quantities >of caramel malts and sugar (1-2 pounds) to the kettle. The secret is to choose > the right yeast and >to keep your ferment as clean as possible. > >Priming should be about 7/8 (125 grams) for five gallons. Addition of fresh > yeast at >bottling should assist with carbonation; a 1-pint starter is sufficient. > Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 12:39:31 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: moving hops I want to move my hop bines, to get more sun. I'm assuming that I can just dig them up and move chunks of root to a new location. Any problems with that? Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 12:54:25 -0500 (EST) From: "v.f. daveikis" <vdaveiki at julian.uwo.ca> Subject: Growing hops Hi folks! Can someone please tell me the address of a place where I can get good hop stock so I can grow my own this year? I would prefer a Canadian address as I don't know what cross-border shipping of living plant material-kind of hassles I could recieve ( is there any?). Thamnks in advance, Victor Daveikis Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 11:07:04 -0700 (MST) From: walter at lamar.ColoState.EDU (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist)) Subject: Fifth Annual March Mashfest _Results_ Fifth Annual March Mashfest Competition Results (Scoresheets will mail Friday, Prizes soon after) Judging was 17-18 March 1995 - 142 Entries Best of Show - John Landreman Belgian Wit Light Lagers 11 Entries 1st Bryan Dawe Bohemian Pilsner 2nd Dave Shaffer Bohemian Pilsner 3rd Bob Kaufman Dortmund/Export Amber/Dark Lagers 13 Entries 1st Bryan Dawe Trad. German Bock 2nd Bryan Dawe Vienna 3rd Bob Kaufman Helles Bock Pale Ales 20 Entries 1st Dave Shaffer English Pale Ale 2nd Keith Schwols American Pale Ale 3rd Mark DeMay India Pale Ale Brown Ales 16 Entries 1st Matt Nieberger English Brown 2nd Bob Miller Dusseldort Alt 3rd Ken Kroeger English Mild Porters 8 Entries 1st Dennis Nicks Brown Porter 2nd Bob Kaufman & Rex Cling Robust Porter 3rd David Sinton Robust Porter Stout Beers 9 Entries 1st Dan Rabin Sweet Stout 2nd John Leazer Foreign-style 3rd Keith Schwols Classic Dry Stout Strong Beers 8 Entries 1st Jon & Tom Haux English Old Ale 2nd Dan Rabin Imperial Stout 3rd Mark Groshek Barley Wine Belgian Beers 11 Entries 1st Chuck Youngflesh & Chris Ely Dubbel 2nd Bob Kaufman Tripel 3rd David Sinton Belgian Strong Wheat Beers 11 Entries 1st John Landreman Belgian Wit 2nd Mark Groshek Weizenbock 3rd Robert Poland Weizenbock Specialty Beers 23 Entries 1st Bob Miller Smoked Porter 2nd Brian Lutz Blueberry Weiss 3rd Fred Frazier Chile Beer Meads 14 Entries 1st John Carlson Traditional Mead 2nd Rob Sims Raspberry Mead 3rd Keith Schwols Coriander/Orange Peel Mead Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 10:21:48 PST From: prazer at isi.com (Mark Prazer) Subject: Re: The Fermentap Review I too bought a Fermentap and am overall satisfied with it. However, I do offer a few criticisms... In HBD 1680, Bob Christopher <oldfogy at svpal.org> wrote: |> |> As I mentioned before... With 2 "Fermentaps" you can transfer from primary |> carboy to your secondary carboy in an oxygen-free atmosphere and lose very |> little of your precious brew. |> Correct. But you do NOT need 2 Fermentaps to do this. Try this method. During active fermentation (in the primary w/ the Fermentap), sanitize your secondary carboy. Then take the exhaust hose (the one connected to the racking cane) and put it in the secondary carboy "filling" it with CO2. When filled (an hour maybe?), pop an air lock on it and keep it around for the next week when you rack to it. Then remove the Fermentap from the primary, clean it, put it in the secondary, invert, etc. I would guesstimate that this method is over 95% O2 free and about $30 cheaper than buying 2 Fermentaps. I really don't have a problem if someone wants to do the 2 Fermentap method. I just didn't appreciate the salesperson on the phone who kept trying to goad me into buying the 2nd Fermentap. He was convinced I would _need_ it. |> The eye-candy of this set-up, is the way it looks sitting majestically on |> top of its "custom made metal welded stand." (Say that ten times fast) The |> entire metal stand is coated with a white, hard plastic like finish. |> Correct. But hard plastic in contact with my glass carboy or my formica countertop makes for very slick contact surfaces. A rubberized coating would have been safer. (Actually, the stand is one reason I was willing to pay 2x the price for a Fermentap over a Brewcap. It does look aestically pleasing.) My last problem with using the Fermentap is temperature control. Here in California, I use a water bath to keep the carboy cool at least 6 months of the year. I could put the whole inverted caroby w/ stand in a water bath still, but lifting out every other day to drain trubage and yeast would become a pain. Not to mention disturbing the sediment. Anyone else have a good method for keeping it cool? |> |> The brochure gives the price at $26.95 for 1 plus $4.00 shipping. If you |> order 2 at $53.90, they will pay for the postage. |> I believe the price is now $29.95 plus $4 shipping. - -- Mark Prazer Sunnyvale, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 13:51:25 -0500 (EST) From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Minor correction to Clasic Am. Pilsner style In my previous post on proposed American Classic Pilsner styles, I said: > I propose two divisions: Pre-prohibition, OG 1.150 - 1.060, 25 - 40 IBU; > post prohibition, OG 1.044-1.049. 20 - 20 IBU. ^^^^^^^^^^^ I meant, 20 - 30 IBU. So how does a new style get adopted, anyway? Especially now, with the AHA/HWBTA split? Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 10:58:31 -0800 From: nic at analogy.com (Nic Herriges) Subject: Re: Vented Boils, Desert Hops, Roasted Barley In HBD 1687 Jim Busch writes: >You *never* want to cover the actual boil. You need to vent off the >volatiles. [snip] Lots >of important kettle reactions going on. Oh, dear... I've always assumed that covering the kettle to minimize heat input was just dandy since, no matter how much heat you put into it, the wort temp never exceeds 212F. Jim, (or anyone who shares this opinion) could you be more specific? What types of kettle reactions are going on here, what sorts of volatiles need to be vented? Why did no one tell me this earlier? (It seems counter-intuitive, but I'm always willing to learn). Private post is fine (unless you think there's general interest in this topic). I'll post a summary to the digest. TIA >>>>>>>>>>> Mark Prior writes: >Does anyone know if it is possible to grow hops in the >Phoenix area? Don't know if it's possible. Do know that, at a minimum, you will require _vast_ amounts of water. Even the Willamette valley is not always wet enough for these thirsty buggers (and that's saying a lot). In the Valley of the Sun you may have to drag a hose out to the vines and keep it running constantly ;-). Consider trying to grow them outside the traditional growing season by refrigerating the rhizomes, then planting in the 'winter' (never tried it, but it's a thought). Your County Extension agent may know about techniques for growing temperate-climate plants in hostile (relatively and herbaceously speaking) environments. Good luck and let us know how you do. >>>>>>>>>> On an un-related topic. I've heard that adding very small amounts (grams per batch) of roasted barley (black) will benefit any style of beer. Once source says that it reduces oxidation, another (Charlie P.) says that it improves flavor by reducing polyphenols. Neither source cites any study. Can anyone verify/contradict these statements? Is this the new magic ingredient to replace coriander? TIA Nic Herriges nic at analogy.com Portland, OR Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 13:16:25 CST From: "MICHAEL L. TEED" <MS08653 at MSBG.med.ge.com> Subject: maibock recipe? .int homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Last week I asked for assistance with a recipe for a Maibock, and had hoped for a response. So far not a single recipe has been offered. Does anyone have a tested recipe that they could share? I could resort to the Cats Meow, but I had hoped to get a recipe that someone actually tested. PLEASE send recipes! Mike Teed, ms08653 at msbg.med.ge.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 13:58:55 EST From: matth at bedford.progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper) Subject: Fermtap looks cool! 5 minutes after reading the recent post regarding the Fermtap equipment I was on the phone with them to get information. I now have the brochure and have some questions for anyone who uses it or has used it but decided against it. 1) It obviously negates the idea of doing blow-off during the primary (since it's only a 3/8" tube). (At least, that neagtes it in my book...) This being the case, what size primary do you use? 2) How well does the filter filter In areas of yeast capturing and trub removal? 3) Yeah it's cool & all that, has it really saved you any time & effort? 4) What, based on your use, do you see as the negatives about using it? Here's a more general question for all: Does anyone use copper or brass for a racking tube? -Matth - -- Matthew J. Harper | Quality Architect | {disclaimer.i} Progress Software Corp.| | DoD #1149 matth at progress.com | Zymurgitst | Ahhhhh, Bock! Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Mar 1995 16:37:32 -0500 From: "Tonkyn, John C" <tonkyn at ocelot.Rutgers.EDU> Subject: cancel subscription Dear HBD: please cancel my subscription to the homebrew digest. Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 17:38:19 "PST From: michael j dix <mdix at dcssc.sj.hp.com> Subject: Brewing Study in Belgium Last October, while web-surfing, I found the page for the K.U. Leuven. I checked it today and it is now considerably cruder, but it still includes a Master of Malting and Brewing Sciences program. I assume the program is in English, since a score of 550 on TOEFL is required. The other prerequisite is a Bachelor/Masters in Ag. Sciences. The course lasts a year full-time, but half-time study is available. This information can be found in the KU Leuven Gopher under the International Study heading. As a general complaint I note that European Ag schools (where brewing seems to live) are the last people to put their info. on the web. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 01:37:29 -0500 From: Yeastbud at aol.com Subject: Pre-Prohibition Lager In HBD #1687 a fine upstanding young American known as Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> wrote at great length about his " ***Great Success in Recreating Classic American Pilsner, a Shamefully Neglected Style!***" . I too read Dr. Fix's article with great interest and formulated a recipe for a "corn beer'. I loved it. My thirsty freeloading friends loved it. And I agree with Jeff that red blooded Americans should learn to love it again. This recipe is a direct adaptation from the BT article by Dr. Fix. I used Wyeast Bavarian Lager from a previous batch. Mash schedule = 95 for 15 min., 122 for 30 min., 138 for 15 min., 154 for 45 min., mash out for 15 min. at 164. Category : American Premium Lager Method : Full Mash Starting Gravity : 1.065 Ending Gravity : 1.016 Alcohol content : 6.3% Recipe Makes : 10.5 gallons Age Beer : 2 weeks. Malts: 5.00 lb. Flaked Maize 17.00 lb. Pale Ale Hops: 1.25 oz. Chinook 13.9% 60 min 2.25 oz. N. Brewer 7.9% 30 min 1.00 oz. Tettnanger 6.2% 15 min Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 00:46:58 -0600 (CST) From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel) Subject: Internet beer resources ===> Patrick G. Babcock asks about Internet brewing resources... >Is there a compilation of Internet locations dedicated to brewing? I've been >happily raiding stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer heartily via ftp since >discovering (how to access) it. But, as I gain its resources, I once again >look to the horizon in search of *MORE*!!! > >If there is no faq file or compilation, I'll accept private e-mail information >and gleefully compile a faq for future upload to the digest archives. Course, >if it's pitifully puny, I'll just post a note here on the digest. If you have access to a the World Wide Web and a Web browser (Mosaic, Air Mosaic, Netscape), there are a number of resources. Probably the best starting point is The Brewery home page at http://alpha.rollanet.org/. It has a reference to Spencer's Beer Page which is another good information source. - -- Phil _____________________________________________________________ Philip Gravel pgravel at mcs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 01:05:52 -0600 (CST) From: "Robert W. Mech" <rwmech at eagle.ais.net> Subject: Cooler Mashout Most recently I was having a discussion with a friend of mine concerning "Cooler" tun method sparge tempratures. Im curious what the HBD collective has to say about it. Typicaly, *I* thought that the sparge temprature was to be 170. Meaning that you want to sustain 170F for the duration of the sparge. Using the cooler method, in order for you to sparge at that temprature you either have add a signficant amount of boiling water to raise the temprature to 170, then continue to add 170F water for the sparge, or perform a decoction and use that to raise the temprature to 170. Since alot of people dont perform decoctions, or dont want to, typicaly Id scratch off that method. Adding extra water to bring the temp up to 170 leaves you with a very watery mash and really no need to add any sparge water... So, *MY* alternative when I mash was to sparge with boiling water. That effectivly rinses my grains and brings it up to 170 fairly quickly since im removing ~156F water, and adding ~212F water. This is where I was told that I should *NOT* add boiling water, and just add 170F water. Now, am I off base here? Discussion of extracted tannins and such from the mash was the main concerns for using boiling water. Ive been using this method now for some time with really no adverse effects in taste. Does anyone care to share thier experience on sparging with the cooler method? TIA Rob -- Robert W. Mech | All Grain HomeBrewer. President, Fermentors At Large Elk Grove, IL. | Author Of "Frugal Brewers Guide To Brewing Aids" rwmech at ais.net | For More Information:(Sorry, they now charge for my WWW page) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 22:10:53 -0800 From: Gregory J Egle <DSGJE at acad2.alaska.edu> Subject: Racking Whenever I rack beer from one carboy to another I run into the same problem.Right where the hose meets the racking cane, I get a diminished flow rate. Sometimes just a trickle. It seems like reason for this is the difference in inside diameter between the cane and the hose. Does anyone out there know of any racking tubes for sale that are 1 piece? Or maybe someone has a system that works well for them that they wouldn't mind sharing. If you can help me with this drop me a line at dsgje at acad2.alaska.edu Thanks, Gregory Egle Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1688, 03/24/95