HOMEBREW Digest #1687 Thu 23 March 1995

Digest #1686 Digest #1688

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Stuck Mead Fermentation (Stephen Tinsley)
  Yeast hulls (MrMike656)
  WYEAST for Saison ("Drink up lad. There's no bones in it!")
  Princeton area brewpub ("Skwarek, Brian")
  Re: Dry Hop siphoning difficulties (Scott Barrett)
  Wit (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  More on kegs and brewery design (Jim Busch)
  Wheat for Wits (Jeff Benjamin)
  Re: professional brewing courses (BTEditor)
  Internet Brewing Resources... (" Patrick G. Babcock")
  Growing hops in the desert? ("Prior, Mark")
  Unmalted Wheat for Wit (Jon Binkley)
  dry-hemping (Hunter8439)
  Cold box question (smtplink!guym)
  Schofferhofer yeast info ("Dan deRegnier")
  Road Trip! ("Richard Scotty")
  supplies by mail order ("Robert McCabe")
  RE: US Saaz, Slow Lager (Jim Dipalma)
  Tax treatment of hard cider (David Hulse)
  wheat beer (Eamonn McKernan)
  Classic American Pilsner, essay and recipe (Jeff Renner)
  aerating wort/minimizing yeast in bottles (Carl Etnier)
  Free Keg Bar, Johns Lager (ELQ1)
  Victoria Bitter (awalsh)
  Very Long Fermentation Period (Chris Strickland)
  Yeast Help! (Gary Flock)
  large batch yeast build up (PGILLMAN)
  Cooler spigot (PatrickM50)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 07:56:15 CST From: a207613 at sun278.dseg.ti.com (Stephen Tinsley) Subject: Stuck Mead Fermentation I know, I know, the meadlovers digest is where I should be posting this, but it won't come out for another day or two, and well, I'm impatient! I brewed my first mead about 3 weeks ago, and I think I've got a stuck fermentation. It started off great, with lots of head, and the gravity falling from an OG of about 1.090 to 1.050 in 4 or 5 days. I racked it to the secondary after a week, and after another week, gravity fell to around 1.040. After another week, I checked it, and the mead has completely cleared. You can read the paper through the carboy, it's so clear. Well, I was naturally encouraged by this, since everyone I talk to says that when the mead clears, it's ready to bottle. So last night I took a sample, and it's only down to 1.035, and you can really taste that honey sweetness! I used about 2 lbs of honey per gallon of water (3.5 gallon batch), and added a couple of teaspoons of both yeast nutrient and acid blend. My sources tell me that this type of mead should start out around 1.100, and end up around 1.000 or less. This, of course, tells me that there's still plenty of sugar left. So, what do I do? Should I leave it, or should I try pitching new yeast with some yeast hulls? (I used Red Star Champagne yeast, so it ought to hold up to the alcohol) I just hope it's not going to be another 7 months in the secondary, I'd like to brew something else! Private email responses would be fine, thanks in advance! - Steve Tinsley More wacky, less egghead. stinsley at ti.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 09:10:11 -0500 From: MrMike656 at aol.com Subject: Yeast hulls I've heard about the usage of yeast hulls as a nutrient. And while at my local homebrew shop, someone mentioned that a good use for that dried yeast you'd bought as a backup (and since forgotten about) was to toss it into the boil, killing the yeast and leaving the hulls. I tried this with some starter and a couple of Trappist ale cultures, a Yeastlab and one from a bottle of Chimay. Its been almost three days and the yeasts have remained highly inactive. Was the introduction of dead, dried yeast a no-no? I used about 6 - 7 grams of old Whitbread Ale in about 6 cups of starter, but about half of that didn't make it into the starter bottles. Any ideas? Mike "As my daddy, used to tell me - Son, it's in the water. That's why it's yellow!" Firesign Theatre Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 08:00:52 EST From: "Drink up lad. There's no bones in it!" <johnm at giant.IntraNet.com> Subject: WYEAST for Saison Can anyone out there recommend a WYEAST strain for brewing a Saison ale? Should I be looking at the belgian Abbey 1214? or the Belgain White beer 3944? Any other strains ? Anyone have a recipe(all grain) they would like to share? Anyone have some notes on the flavor profile for this style? TIA. John McCafferty Chelmsford, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 09:04:36 -0500 From: smtp2!bskwarek at develop2.attmail.com ("Skwarek, Brian") Subject: Princeton area brewpub Warning: Short local interest post ahead! The Triumph brewery in Princeton, NJ has FINALLY opened this week (1 of only a handful of brepubs in NJ). I haven't checked it out yet, but on Saturday night there was an hr wait to get it! It is located on Nassau Street (Rt 27), Princeton. Bye! -Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 09:28:17 -0500 From: scott at partech.com (Scott Barrett) Subject: Re: Dry Hop siphoning difficulties In HBD #1686, James Drago described difficulties siphoning a batch of IPA containing pelletized hops. He used the usual technique of wrapping a filter (nylon) around the input end of his siphon hose and had the common problem of the siphon clogging repeatedly. I've had some success putting the filter at the *output* end of the siphon when racking between vessels. I keep a coarse filter (like a copper scrubbie) at the input end just to keep big stuff away from the end of the racking cane and use a piece of finer material (say a clean patch of old BVDs) formed into a small bag held onto the output end of the racking hose. The bag traps small bits that pass the coarse filter. I still catch all the cruft but don't need to repeatedly restart the siphon because the input filter is clogged. I've found it to work really well with fruit. As always, the output end of the siphon must be below the level of the racked liquid to eliminate chances for aeration. YMMV. Yours in brewing, Scott Barrett Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 10:56:09 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Wit A few posts on this lately. * Unmalted wheat makes a difference in the flavor & color. It's worth the trouble (IMHO). Do a long protein rest (45 minutes). A 40C mash-in is probably helpful, too. Use pilsner malt for diastatic power and to keep the color as low as possible. * Check your mash pH. Due to the large quantity of unmalted wheat, it won't drop as far as with a more normal grain bill. I had to acidify the mash & sparge water. * Bitter orange peel is available from The Frozen Wort, PO Box 947, Greenfield, MA 01302, (413) 773-5920. 4 oz is enough for close to a dozen batches. * The Wyeast "White" yeast is very temperature sensitive, and will not work well below about 70F (Pierre Celis says of his yeast, "she goes to sleep".) * At the SOB, Celis said his beer has (for spices) bitter orange peel, coriander, and sweet orange peel. Nothing else! This is apparently the most definite he'd ever been on the topic. He refused to elaborate on the souring, saying something like "that's the tricky part." (I'm definitely paraphrasing here.) My qualifications? Several batches, a couple of firsts in local competitions (in the "specialty" category -- both times just missing best of show) and 3rd at the Spirit of Belgium (with Dan McConnell). =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 11:45:35 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: More on kegs and brewery design Kirk and Bradd write: <All-stainless Sankey's are the only kind of A-B kegs *I have seen*. There may be aluminum ones too. >If I were to have a separate hot liquor tank would I be able to >sufficiently mash/lauter 10 gal batches in a 1/4 keg then boil in >a 1/2 keg? This means two false bottoms and two ball valves, but >I want a separate mash/lautering vessel. You still only need one false bottom. I mash in a separate vessal than the lauter tun and I only use one bottom. I also use this as a hop back in the kettle, added before the first hopping. A smaller mash tun than kettle will work up to a point. You cannot brew full volume high gravity batches, but normal 5% beers could be done. You need two ball valves anyway. It is always better to over size and over engineer a brewery, IMO. <The most expensive and troublesome aspect of building a three-keg system <for me was: getting fittings for the keg and getting them welded to the <keg, cutting open the keg, and getting good false bottoms. Recommendation <here is: hold out for a single 1/2 bbl keg for use as a mash/lauter unit. Easy, get two 1/2 BBls. Get a cheapo aluminum hot liquor vessal/stock pot. Use one 1/2 BBl for mash & lauter, the other for kettle. Fittings should be 3/8"-3/4" SS ferrule with NPT for the ball valves. SS ball valves are good, but I use brass. False bottoms are sold in many shops now. Be sure to get perf sheet SS. If you dont mind transferring the mash, it is more flexible to use separate mash and lauter tuns. <I see no harm in having the chiller in the boil for the duration; <kettles were once all-copper, after all. We have to reduce quite <a bit of volume sometimes, from 12 gal down to 10 at our reduction <rate of 1 gal/hr. So...we don't want to cover the kettle. Unless <you plan to cover the kettle with a blown hood and run the fan all <the time, you may find you get slower reductions than you really <want. I make the trade-off in favor of lower boil-start volumes <(closer to target final volume) and sacrifice the higher yields of <a longer, more voluminous sparge. You *never* want to cover the actual boil. You need to vent off the volatiles. A chimny vent of some kind works fine. As long as it is a vented/open flue, it will work fine. It is better to have a longer more vigorous boil over a smaller reduction in volume. Lots of important kettle reactions going on. Be sure to get a big enough fire source to keep the boil high enough to boil off at least 10% per hour. Jim Busch Colesville, Md. busch at mews.gsfc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 10:04:58 MST From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Wheat for Wits Bob Ledden pointed this out already, but I thought I'd reiterate for those who missed his aside. Lots of people complain that unmalted wheat is difficult to grind and mash, which causes headaches when trying to brew an authentic wit beer. Rather than use straight wheat, try using flaked wheat from your local health-food store or wherever you buy bulk foods. Using the flaked wheat takes care of two things. One, there is no need to grind it at all. Two, it's already partly gelatinized from the flaking process, so the starch is more readily available for conversion. You don't have to do any other processing; just dump it into the mash. My brewing partner has used large percentages of flaked hard red wheat in several wit beers with excellent results. (And I must say, he keeps his wits about him :-). - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado <-- rubbing it in :-) "Think! It ain't illegal yet." -- George Clinton Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 12:24:04 -0500 From: BTEditor at aol.com Subject: Re: professional brewing courses In HBD #1686, Lenny Garfinkel wrote: >Can anyone point me to training courses for professional >brewmasters? >Preferably in Europe, but US ok. The March/April issue of BrewingTechniques magazine begins a series of profiles of institutions for professional brewing education/training. The goal is to have covered them all -- worldwide -- by the time the series is finished. The first profile is of the International Centre for Brewing and Distilling in Edinburgh, with a sidebar on the Institute of Brewing in London. For more information, contact BTcirc at aol.com Stephen BTEditor at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 12:33:43 EST From: " Patrick G. Babcock" <usfmchql at ibmmail.com> Subject: Internet Brewing Resources... Hello, all! Is there a compilation of Internet locations dedicated to brewing? I've been happily raiding stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer heartily via ftp since discovering (how to access) it. But, as I gain its resources, I once again look to the horizon in search of *MORE*!!! If there is no faq file or compilation, I'll accept private e-mail information and gleefully compile a faq for future upload to the digest archives. Course, if it's pitifully puny, I'll just post a note here on the digest. TIA! 'Let a good beer be the exclamation point at the end of your day as every sentence requires proper punctuation.' - Me Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock usfmchql at ibmmail.com (313)33-73657 (V) (313)59-42328 (F) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 21:44:00 EST From: "Prior, Mark" <PRIORM at imsint.com> Subject: Growing hops in the desert? I have recently relocated to Phoenix, Arizona and am considering planting a few hop rhizomes. Does anyone know if it is possible to grow hops in the Phoenix area? Will hops survive the extreme summer heat (120+ Fahrenheit)? Will hops blossom at 33 degrees latitude? Has anyone tried raising hops in a similar environment? Thanks in advance for your advice. Mark Prior Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 09:46:31 -0800 From: Jon Binkley <binkley at genome.Stanford.EDU> Subject: Unmalted Wheat for Wit Andy Patrick writes: >One of the tougher things about this style is getting the wheat character >right. Celis' grain bill contains a large fraction of UNmalted wheat. >This stuff is a real PITA to work with, both in terms of grinding it and >mashing it. Last time I made one of these, I did just used plain old DWC >wheat malt, and the resulting beer turned out quite nicely. I have used flaked wheat. This resembles oatmeal, and is available in health/natural food stores. It may be added directly to the mash without any further processing. It is sticky and lumpy like oatmeal, and therefore could potentially cause sparging problems, but is much less of a PITA than I imagine whole grain wheat would be. Jon Binkley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 12:55:05 -0500 From: Hunter8439 at aol.com Subject: dry-hemping OK, I'm sure everyone here is familiar with the fact that hops and cannabis are very closely related. And I'm also sure that it has occured to some of you that it might be possible to substitute one for the other. I'm also curious about the possibility and would appreciate any help from people who have tried it. I have read that Micheal Jackson has tried a homebrew with pot in it, so I know it's been done before. My questions specifically are: (1) how much to use in a 5 gallon batch; and (2) should it be used in the boil, or as a dry-hop. I've heard that the THC will not be extracted in the boil, but that it is alcohol soluable, so that would indicated use in the secondary. What are your experiences. It would be a fairly expensive experiment, so I would prefer getting it right the first time. Thanks for any and all help, and (obviously) private e'mail is fine. I'll create a FAQ from the responses and provide it to any who request it. Quick waste of BW: Has anyone else noticed the new Coors Artic Ice commercials? Excuse me, but isn't the proper spelling ArCtic? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 10:50:15 MDT From: exabyte!smtplink!guym at uunet.uu.net Subject: Cold box question I seem to recall reading an article by Byron Burch(?) somewhere regarding his building a plywood extension for a refrigerator (or upright freezer) to give him more space for fermenting, cold storage, kegs, etc. The problem is, I can't remember where I read the article. I have now acquired two upright freezers but, since the coils are in the shelves, I can't arrange them to allow me to put kegs inside. If someone could point me to where the article is (maybe in an issue of Zymurgy?) I'd appreciate it. -- Guy McConnell | Exabyte Corp. | Huntersville, NC | guym at exabyte.com "So barmaid bring a pitcher, another round of brew..." Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 13:25:26 EST From: "Dan deRegnier" <DDEREGNI at ALH01.FERRIS.EDU> Subject: Schofferhofer yeast info I was lucky enough to have a friend travel from Berlin and visit me here in west Michigan. He brought several bottles of beer. He brought several Schofferhofer. One was a dunkles hefeweizen. I would like to culture the yeast. Does anyone have any particulars on this strain? It was truly delicious. One bottle was not enough! Any information would be greatly appreciated. Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Mar 1995 11:53:19 U From: "Richard Scotty" <richard_scotty at msmgate.mrg.uswest.com> Subject: Road Trip! I'll be in Sacramento and Atlanta in the next two weeks. Any info about brewerys, brewpubs, resturants and other point of interest would be greatly appreciated via private e-mail. TIA, Rich Scotty Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 12:31:31 EST From: "Robert McCabe" <Robert_McCabe_at_RAY__REC__QTW01A01 at CCGATE.UECI.COM> Subject: supplies by mail order I am a beginner home brewer in search of some economocal mail order supply shops. If anyone could e-mail me the names and phone numbers of any good supply shops it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks robert_McCabe at CCGATE.UECI.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 14:54:46 EST From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Subject: RE: US Saaz, Slow Lager Hi All, In HBD#1686, Chuck Mryglot writes about US Saaz hops: >Recently I bought a pound of US Saaz whole leaf hops (ultimately >from G.W. Kent Ann Arbor MI). The AA rating was 6.2% I have brewed >with these a few times and this rating appears to be correct. > > Now, Czech Saaz hops are usually around 3%. > > Are the US versions of Saaz so drastically different? I have a question on a related point. Several years ago when I first started brewing, Czech Saaz typically ran 4% - 5.5% AA, closer to what the US versions are now. For the last two years, every batch of Czech Saaz I've bought has been ~3%, I even had some last year that was 2.6%. I'm curious as to why the AA rating of this hop has dropped so drastically in the last two years, mostly because brewing a nice, hoppy pilsner requires nearly twice as much hops as it did a few years ago. Any hop gurus care to field this one?? ******************************************** John Montgomery writes about a slow lager fermentation: >Day 14 - Racked to secondary (temp at 48F). Two day Diacetyl rest at 53F. >Day 16 - Began walking temp down to set point of 33 - 37F. >Day 24 - Temp at Lagering temp (~35F). >Day 45 - Beer has been lagering for 21 days. >Day 66 - Airlock looks still. Attempt to bottle but upon moving >fermenter from fridge to kitchen, airlock gets active and I notice >bubbles rising. I abort and take gravity readings SG: 1.014, Balling: >3.75 >Day 72 - Take gravity readings. SG: 1.013, Balling: 3.63 > >So what's the deal. Is this thing taking too long? I have no experience with the Wyeast Pilsen yeast, but I'm inclined to think the beer is done. You had active fermentation in 36 hours, 14 days in primary at 48F, diacetyl rest, then lagered for a total of 48 days, that should do it. 1.013 looks like a reasonable FG for a pilsner to me. The fact that it dropped only .001 in 6 days is a further sign that fermentation is complete, the .001 is even within the range of measurement error. As to the increased airlock activity when the fermenter is moved out of the fridge, I'd say that CO2 is coming out of solution as the beer warms up. FWIW, I think it's ready to bottle. Cheers, Jim dipalma at sky.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 15:54:07 EST From: David Hulse <DSHULS00 at UKCC.UKY.EDU> Subject: Tax treatment of hard cider I ran across the following item the other day and thought it might be of interest to those of you who make cider: Sen. Patrick J. Leahy, D-Vt., has introduced S. 401, which would clarify the excise tax treatment of hard apple cider. I have not checked this out any further, but for those of you who are interested and who have access to Lexis, the following citations in the TNT file of the FEDTAX library should give you some more information: 95 TNT 41-35 and 95 TNT 43-42. I hope this is of some help to someone. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 16:57:55 EST From: Eamonn McKernan <eamonn at rainbow.physics.utoronto.ca> Subject: wheat beer I keep hearing that cracking wheat is a real pain in a mill/grinder. I don't see why crack it at all. Boil the stuff for 20 minutes, and the grain expands, and gelatinizes, and is ready to be mashed. I thought that wheat had so little enzymatic content, that de-naturing whatever proteins it does contain is not going to make a significant difference. Is their a major flavour inpact when boiling wheat? Tannin extraction? Maybe this is only acceptable for certain styles? Please enlighten me O great "common wisdon out there". Eamonn McKernan eamonn at rainbow.physics.utoronto.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 18:02:29 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Classic American Pilsner, essay and recipe ***Great Success in Recreating Classic American Pilsner, a Shamefully Neglected Style!*** Now that I have your attention, I hope you'll read this long article. I think it will be worth it. *Soapbox mounted* Last fall I asked for help in recreating the taste of the beers I grew up having tastes of in Cincinnati in the fifties. Part of the flavor I remembered was certainly just the pungency of beer to a child's sensitive palate. But part was certainly the greater hopping levels, some DMS from the corn that was expected, especially by mid-western palates, and just the greater flavor profile produced by brewing without techniques designed to reduce flavors (N2 wort scrubbing, neutral yeasts, minimal wort caramelization, etc.). Starting with the Brewing Techniques's article on Pre-prohibition Lagers by George Fix (May/June,'94) and the one on Bushwick Pilsners by Ben Jankowski (Jan./Feb.'94), I formulated a 1.048 OG, 1.016 FG. 80% six-row, 20% flaked maize, 25 IBU target beer fermented with New Ulm yeast from Yeast Culture Kit Co. A good bit of the body/sweetness profile was produced by the short, 15 minute rest at 60C with 45 minutes at 70C, giving an apparent attenuation of 67%. If these times were reversed, it would probably result in an apparent attenuation of close to 80%, giving a drier, snappier, less satiating beer. This is not what I wanted. Because I was mostly brewing for historical curiosity, I brewed only five gallons. I now wish I'd brewed my usual 1/4 barrel, because it succeeded beyond my wildest expectations! Not only did I brew a successful historical reproduction, THIS IS A GREAT STYLE BY ABSOLUTE, WORLD-CLASS STANDARDS. American mega-breweries have to answer not only for the sin of what they are producing today, but for having killed off a great beer style. Steam beer is not our only indigenous beer style, only our best known. This isn't a continental pilsner, but it yields nothing to that style in absolute terms. Fix and Jankowski were too stinting in their praise of this style. I guess I thought of it as a pretty good job that American brewers did making do with the materials available. It is far more. This extinct beer is a WORLD CLASS STYLE. I'm not saying that my beer is a world class beer, but it's pretty damn good. It has a beautiful, full golden color with a long lasting, thick creamy head, full flavor with modest maltiness bolstered by the subtle corny sweetness, balanced by a clean hops bitterness and yeast character, with a long, clean bitter finish. We as homebrewers have helped revive other extinct styles (such as porter), and I propose to this group that this should be next one. This isn't lawnmower beer. This is the beer that our grandfathers paid a nickel for and got a free lunch with. This is the beer that German immigrants created when they arrived in the US, and that swept out the ales in the lager revolution by its demonstrably better quality. This is the beer of American steelworkers and shipbuilders. This is the beer that built America! This is the bee.... Oops. Sorry. I got so excited that I fell off my soapbox. Now I know we are all fond of ales and despise American megaswill lagers. We lament that ales were forced out of America by lagers. But we are comparing today's commercial lagers with the ales we make or microbrews. That switch would have been a tragedy, but a classic American Pilsner is a different beer entirely, and ales of 150 years ago were probably pretty rough. We've always heard that corn and rice are nothing more than malt stretchers. American six-row barley malt is too high in protein to make stable beers, so corn was first used to dilute the protein. Cost cutting was a bonus that got out of hand. But 20% corn is a delightful flavor addition. Unfortunately, I know of no commercial examples that still exist with that corn and malt expression, especially with decent hopping levels. The AHA guidelines are limiting on this. They allow a premium American lager to have a maximum of 23 IBU, and say nothing about corny DMS - this generally is considered a defect. (As a matter of fact, Fix relates judges who liked his beer but found it "far out of category.") But this flavor was expected, especially in mid-western beers. At the Ann Arbor Brewers' Guild meeting last week, this beer got rave reviews from all, including a number of highly ranked judges. ************ So here is the recipe for five gallons of "YOUR FATHER'S MUSTACHE," a Classic American Pilsner. Water: 9 gallons moderately (temp.) hard well water boiled to soften and eliminate bicarbonate alkalinity, racked, treated with 2 t. CaCl2(2H2O), target 60 ppm Ca. Grain bill: 7 lbs. American six row malt (80%) 1.75 lbs. flaked maize (20%) Mash schedule: Doughed in 8.5 qts. 58C water to get --> 50C protein rest, 30 min., (pH 5.5), then infused w/ 3 qts. boiling water to --> 60C sac. rest for 15 minutes, then boosted w/ burner to --> 70C sac. rest for 40 minutes, then boosted w/ burner to --> 76C mashoff for 10 min. Lautered in insulated Zapap, collected 7 gal. at 1.041 for 32.8 p/p/g. Note - Beautifully clear wort with minimum recirculation, easy sparge. This six-row is beautiful to work with. Boil - 1 hr, beautiful hot break, like egg drop soup Hopped to 25 IBU target: 25 g. Cluster hops pellets at 7.5% - 1hr boil 1/4 oz. Styrian Goldings at 5.2% - 10 min. boil plus settling steep - 15 min. 1/4 oz. Styrian Goldings at 5.2% - 15 min. settling steep. Counter current cooled to 64F, 4.75 gallons collected at 1.055, then diluted to 5.5 gallons at 1.048 in 7 gallon carboy, force chilled in snowbank to 50F. Pitched New Ulm yeast from bottom of 3 liter starter. Fermented at 50F - 52F 12 days, racked, lagered seven weeks at 33F, kegged, conditioned with 10 psi at 38F, then dispensed at 42F-44F. The flavor showed best at mid 40sF and when drawn to give a good head and reduced carbonation. (Most beer shows best like this). I hope I have encouraged some of you lager brewers to try this style. It is naked brewing, as Dan McConnell commented. There isn't any place to hide, so watch your techniques. Please let me know your results, and lobby for this to be a recognized style. I propose two divisions: Pre-prohibition, OG 1.150 - 1.060, 25 - 40 IBU; post prohibition, OG 1.044-1.049. 20 - 20 IBU. I suppose we could recognize rice rather than corn, but rice really is a flavor/body diluent. Fix says that modern American lagers grew out of pre-prohibition "Western Lager," a lower gravity, lower hopped, rice adjunct beer that was held in "low esteem" by Easterners. Thanks to Martin Manning, Ed Westemeier and Lowell Hart for their ideas on what made the beer I remembered from the 50's, and George Fix and Ben Jankowski for their Brewing Techniques articles. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 00:16:12 +0100 (MET) From: Carl Etnier <m9258 at abc.se> Subject: aerating wort/minimizing yeast in bottles Frank Longmore's apparatus for aerating his wort with welding oxygen reminded me of a discussion I read in December in back issues from last April. In that discussion, a number of people claimed that one cannot get water/wort more than 20% saturated with oxygen by bubbling air in it, because air is only 20% oxygen. This was not rebutted by anyone at the time, that I saw, but it is not true. Time to get some correct information on that out there. It is in fact possible and easy to saturate water with O2 by bubbling in air. We do it all the time in our aquaria and our ecological sewage treatment plant. It stands to reason, also. Saturation for O2 in water at around room temperature is on the order of 10 ppm. The concentration of O2 in air is about 200,000 ppm. No wonder O2 moves from air into water until the water is saturated! Speed is another question. It possible to very quickly saturate even low O2/high BOD (biological oxygen demand) water with O2, given vigorous aeration, as we do in our sewage treatment plant. But I have never experimented with the time it takes one aquarium pump with an oxygen stone to aerate a 5 gallon or (here) 25 liter batch of wort that begins with little or no dissolved O2. One other clue to understanding this process. This one I don't have a good written reference for or my own measurements, but it comes from a colleague who has worked with aquaria and fish culture for some 20 years. Unless you have very specialized equipment that produces very small bubbles, most of the aeration from bubbling comes from the movement of the water on the surface, not from diffusion from the bubbles. They are too large and in the water too short a time for much O2 to diffuse out. So bubble vigorously! Actually, I do extract brews with about 10 l boiled water and 15 liters cold tap water. I just splash a lot when I throw in the cold water and hope for the best. Fermentation almost always starts very quickly. But it would be nice to remove that "almost"--I may start aerating. If so, I'll come back with some measurements on time needed. - ----------------------------- In December I asked if I could reduce the yeast layer on the bottom of my bottles by racking to a tertiary shortly before bottling. I wondered 1) whether it would it work and 2) whether it would work too well and not give me enough yeast left for carbonation in the bottles. I got responses that varied from "Yes, I do it and it works great" to "Don't bother; just put your carboy in a cold place several days before bottling and most of the suspended yeast will precipitate out." I tried the tertiary (the carboy was already at about 10 C) and sent letters of thanks to my benefactors with a report that it had worked. Shortly after bottling, there was much less yeast on the bottom than usual that long after bottling, and the beginnings of normal carbonation. Since then I have been travelling and away from my Internet account and HBD. Now that I am back, I can report that the Rocky Raccoon's Crystal Honey Lager I tried this on has the normal amount of yeast on the bottom. In the long run, the tertiary didn't seem to make much difference. On the other hand, this yeast sediment has almost no flavor--the last cm I leave in the bottle tastes almost exactly the same as what I pour in the glass--but I wonder whether this is due to the yeast strain (forgot to record it, but probably Cooper's) and recipe, and not the tertiary. Could others who have experience with yeast and a tertiary report 1) how much you have reduced your yeast layer in bottles and 2) whether the yeast tastes any different/less than otherwise? If you email to me, I can summarize the results and post them (more quickly this time; I'm not going anywhere). TIA! Carl Etnier Trosa, Sweden (Carl.Etnier at abc.se works fine) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 15:56:22 PST From: ELQ1%Maint%HBPP at bangate.pge.com Subject: Free Keg Bar, Johns Lager Forwarded to: internet at pge at com[homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com] cc: Comments by: ELQ1 at Maint at HBPP -------------------------- [Original Message] ------------------------- Good Mourning![?] Brew folks, This is a very regional post for N. Calif.- S. Ore. so other areas please disregard, While attempting fishing during our last mini hurricane, I discovered a small dump sight at one of the coastal lagoons, I found a keg bar that looks to hold 4-5 kegs, with two dispensing holes in the top, the top is all SS with a center drain, the refrigeration unit has been removed, and the side has a small dent, all in all this looks like the cats critter for a deluxe home kegging system. Any one interested can E-mail me for location. John Montgomery, your lager sounds fine, the bubbles releasing during movement of you fermenter is normal, and sounds like you have one delicious batch of lager to deal with, need help? Ed Quier ELQ1 at PGE.COM 707-444-0718 wk Brewing Live! from behind the Redwood Curtain, Eureka! Ca. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 10:16:34 From: awalsh at ibm.net Subject: Victoria Bitter Tony McCauley has a friend named Pat who actually likes Victoria Bitter. I wonder if Tony has ever tried this stuff himself? I think Pat would find the cost of importing a case prohibitive. He would also have difficulty in finding a courier that accepts alcohol shipments. His best bet is to ring around freight consignment companies, or to have friends returning from Australia willing to bring back a case. Does he have any friends working for international airlines that travel to Australia? I believe Qantas may even serve this beer on their flights, but do not know how easy (or legal) it would be to get any off them. A brief history on Victoria Bitter (or VB as it tends to be called here). The president of our homebrew club saw a chemical analysis of Carlton United Breweries' (CUB-brewers of VB in Melbourne, also in the top 10 by volume in the world's breweries) 3 major beers, VB, Fosters and Crown lager (their so-called "premium" beer). All were almost identical except for the IBU rating. He became a bit suspicious, and as he was also doing a university course in brewing he asked around what the story was (many professional brewers also do this course). It turns out that all 3 beers are the same! They actually brew one beer to meet Crown's specs. Any that do not meet these specs are bottled as Fosters or VB. They *do* add extra liquid hop bittering extract (I've forgotten what you call it - we can't buy it as homebrewers here) at bottling time to provide slight variation between labels. So my suggestion is to buy a can of Fosters, some bittering extract from your homebrew shop, and add a bit to the can. Instant VB! I do not know the exact IBU ratings of each (my friend Dave says VB is 28 IBU), but I would guess Crown and Fosters are each 20-24 IBU. Or Pat or Tony could try their hands at making some. This is how CUB do it (scaled down to 5 US gallons brew size, but makes about 9 gallons as the beer is high gravity brewed) malt: 2 x 1.7kg cans Australian Cooper's light extract (or if you insist on mashing, try for OG 1.055 in 5 gallons, with US 2 row lager malt - this is similar to Australian malt) cane sugar: 3 pounds cane sugar (yes you read this right) hops: Pride of Ringwood, 28 IBU bittering only (ie. no flavour or aroma) yeast: Wyeyeast Danish lager (I believe the CUB yeast is derived from the Carlsburg strain) OG=1.077 - 1.082 in 5 gallons ferment at 18C (65F) until fermented out (fermentation should be very quick, and gravity should be down to around 1.018) transfer to secondary and add finings. Do not lager! It is OK to drop the temperature to around 2C (36F), but *only* to drop the yeast out of suspension. On *no* account let it stay at such low temperatures for longer than a few days. We're not making German lager here, we're making VB! Add about 4 gallons dechlorinated water and bottle. %alc about 4.7 by volume. Result: don't blame me if it tastes like swill! I believe this is a reasonably accurate rendition of common Australian commercial "lager" techniques gleaned over the years through conversations with various professional brewers. (I've added the fining bit for homebrewers as they generally do not have access to filtering systems). Do yourself a favour and stick to commonly published techniques and ingredients, and forget VB. ************************** // Andy Walsh from Sydney. // awalsh at ibm.net // phone (02) 369 5711 ************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 20:56:47 -0500 From: cstrick at iu.net (Chris Strickland) Subject: Very Long Fermentation Period I'm starting to get worried now. My last batch of beer has been fermenting for nearly 4 weeks (normally it's done in about 8 days). It's still bubbling in the airlock about 4 times a minute. I normally bottle at 1-2 times per minute. Could there be something wrong with this batch that's causing it to ferment longer than normal. I even used 1lb less of grain this time. I'm using a London Ale yeast (which is what I normally use). Or should I just open a homebrew and quit worrying (this is my 36th batch and the only one that's gone past 8 days). - -------------- Chris Strickland cstrick at iu.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 00:38:51 -0500 From: garyf at idirect.com (Gary Flock) Subject: Yeast Help! I've been following this digest for some time and appreciate very much the wealth of information provided by all. I am looking for a place to obtain some "wyeast" in the Toronto area. I'm especially interested in a lager or pilsener variety. Also, can someone help me out with the archives of HBD. They are .Z compressed and I can't find a utility to expand them (correctly). Sorry to ask here but other attempts elsewhere have failed. TIA Gary R. Flock AKA Garth garyf at idirect.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 22:17:31 -0800 (PST) From: PGILLMAN at POMONA.EDU Subject: large batch yeast build up i have just begun fermenting 10-15 gallon batches and am wondering how often i should rack the beer off of the sediment- so far i am just following Dave Miller's rec. as if i had started with a large starter- ie when the bubbling drops to at every 30 seconds i rack- should i rack again? or earlier? TIA phil- pgillman at pomona.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 01:44:53 -0500 From: PatrickM50 at aol.com Subject: Cooler spigot Dan Sherman asks how to fit a spigot to a straight sided, insulated, double-walled Rubbermaid cooler. Really simple and really easy, Dan. Using a 1-3/8" hole saw on a hand drill, drill through the outer shell about an inch or so off the bottom and keep drilling through the insulation until the bit just pokes through a flat section of the inner wall. But do not remove the foam insulation and do not cut a hole through the wall yet! Now replace the 1-3/8" hole saw with a 1-1/8" hole saw. Using the drill hole from the first drilling as a guide, drill through the insulation and through the inner wall. Remove the plastic burrs and the remaining foam insulation in the hole. Now mount a plastic spigot with a 1" OD threaded end to the single inner wall only. I used a "Drum Tap" ($6.25) by Waddington and Duval, Ltd. (London). It has a 1-1/4" stop collar that slips by the outer wall and snugs up against the inner wall. It has a dial-type shutoff knob and will work if the side of your cooler is 1" thick or less. It's hard to adjust once it heats up with hot runnings however, and if you use a hose clamp to secure a 1/2" ID hose to the nozzle, the nozzle will deform! You don't need the clamp anyway. I'm going to replace my Drum Tap with a "Quick Serve" ($4.95) lever-action tap made by the same company for the next batch. It looks like it may not *stick* as much. Hope this helps - it worked for me and the cooler only cost $1 at my recycling center :-) Pat Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1687, 03/23/95