HOMEBREW Digest #172 Fri 09 June 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Yeasts, Sweeter Beers, Bad Smells, Boom (Dr. T. Andrews)
  Mega Stout - The Recipe (man)
  herbs in beer ("1107-CD&I/VIRUS DISEASES")
  Re: "narcotic herb" (a.e.mossberg)
  Re: homebrew tuning (John D. Polstra)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 7 Jun 89 7:11:12 EDT From: Dr. T. Andrews <tanner at ki4pv> Subject: Re: Yeasts, Sweeter Beers, Bad Smells, Boom ) ... Some kits provide wickedly pleasant yeasts - Dogbolter ... Yes, the Dogbolter yeast is a nice one. It also works well, and starts quickly. I use it for most of my beers now, and am happy with it. It's easy to re-use the stuff; grab the sludge from secondary fermentation of one batch, and you have plenty for several batches of beer. To re-use the stuff: after racking the beer from the secondary fermentation vessel, you will have a mass of yeast sludge in the bottom. Sterilize the top of the carboy in the locally approved manner (I use vodka) and pour the mess into a sterile jar. Cap, store in back of refrigerator. To make beer: just scoop some of it out; drop it into a nice, warm batch of malt solution (aka "sterile wort"); cover and let it start while you boil your wort. By the time the wort is boiled and chilled, you have a good crop of yeast ready to take off immediately. Dr. T. Andrews, Systems CompuData, Inc. DeLand -- ...!bikini.cis.ufl.edu!ki4pv!tanner ...!bpa!cdin-1!cdis-1!ki4pv!tanner or... {allegra killer gatech!uflorida decvax!ucf-cs}!ki4pv!tanner Return to table of contents
Date: 8 Jun 1989 7:20 EDT From: man at granjon.att.com Subject: Mega Stout - The Recipe Mega Stout Ingredients for 5 gallons: 2 3.3 lb. cans Munton & Fison stout kits 3 lbs. Munton & Fison extra dark DME ( I substituted dark, since I had it) 2 cups chocolate malt (whole) 2 cups black patent malt 2 cups roasted barley 3 oz. Fuggles hops (whole, 5-6 % alpha acid) .5 oz. Cascade (whole 5-6 % alpha acid) ale yeast .25 tsp. Irish Moss Steep 6 cups of grain in 2 gallons of cold water and bring to a boil. Remove grain at boil. Add all extracts and Fuggles for entire boil. (1 hour) Add Irish Moss for last 15 minutes of boil. At end of boil, steep Cascade for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool, pitch, look out! That's the recipe. I modified it slightly, with the DME and boiling 5 gallons and topping to 5 gallons with chilled, pre-boiled water. Return to table of contents
Date: 8 Jun 89 08:47:00 EST From: "1107-CD&I/VIRUS DISEASES" <henchal at wrair-emh1.army.mil> Subject: herbs in beer Tony Burgess writes: " A few months back someone asked about the possibility of replacing hops with a related plant renowned for its narcotic properties. I tried this once, with mixed results." Excuss me a minute, while I flame. 1) Hops and that other herb to which you are referring, besides being plants, are not related. 2) Why would you put anything in beer or encourage others to use ingredients which contribute negatively to the flavor and natural aroma of beer? 3)If you want to use drugs, go ahead. But if you want to brew REAL beer, use only hops, malt, water and yeast. ERIK A. HENCHAL <Henchal at WRAIR.ARPA> Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 89 10:36:26 EDT From: aem at mthvax.cs.miami.edu (a.e.mossberg) Subject: Re: "narcotic herb" In HOMEBREW Digest #171, Tony Burgess sez: >[...] >mixed results. We made a batch of Papazian's Propensity Pilsener, replacing on >e ounce of boiling hops with an ounce of the aforementioned narcotic herb. The >good news is that the narcotic properties transferred perfectly. The bad news >is that it was practically undrinkable. The taste was utterly foul and complet >ely unfamiliar. By adding a few (6 or 7) drops of pure hop extract to a beer j >ust before drinking it, we were able to make it palatable. Here are the mistak >es I think we made. We should have made a much more full-bodied and flavorful >brew (though not too alcoholic, of course), and we ought to have increased rath >er than decreased the amount of hops used, so as to obscure the awful flavor of > the other herb. Those are my suggestions for anyone who wants to try this. "narcotic herb"? Let's see, you must be saying that you used opium.. Now if you're trying to say that you used something in the genus Cannabis, it is decidedly not classified as narcotic. Now, I... er.. a friend did this, but did not replace the Humulus with Cannabis but merely reduced the former, and added a quantity of the latter. Umm. Did you follow that? Rather than eliminating totally the hops, just reduce it slightly or not at all, and add the additional herb. It works very nicely, and there was no off tastes in the sample I tried. Maybe there was some pesticide residue? Or it wasn't cleaned properly? Or it wasn't put in the boil (to sterilize it)? Etc. Etc. >A slightly more ambitious approach, if you have a green thumb, is to graft a ho >p shoot onto the root of its friendly cousin.You will produce a truly extraordi >nary hop plant, at least according to a book I was reading recently on the subj >ect. [...] This has been suggested, but I haven't heard of anyone actually doing it. I suspect the benefits are limited, and if the plant is illegal, the root is too... aem -- a.e.mossberg - aem at mthvax.cs.miami.edu - aem at miavax.SPAN - aem at umiami.BITNET I am strongly in favor of using poison gas against uncivilized tribes. The moral effect should be so good. Loss of life should be reduced to a minimum. It is not necessary to use only the most deadly gases; gases can be used which cause great inconvience and would spread a lively terror... - Winston Churchill Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 89 10:47:42 PDT From: polstra!jdp at hplabs.HP.COM (John D. Polstra) Subject: Re: homebrew tuning In Homebrew Digest #169, Dave Sheehy writes: > My taste in beer runs towards the sweeter varieties. I have been unable to > duplicate the sweetness of the beer at the microbreweries I've frequented. > I talked to one of the brewers at the Triple Rock microbrewery in Berkeley > and he said that they interrupt primary fermentation prematurely in order > to retain a sweetness in the flavor of their beer. I've now realized that > they must also either pastuerize the wort to kill the yeast of filter the > yeast out to avoid additional fermentation. I suppose that their beer might > be consumed quickly enough for the above steps to be ignored and not > matter much. I recently took a tour of a brewpub here with the local homebrew club, and learned how this particular establishment achieves sweetness in its beers. They monitor the SG during fermentation. When the SG drops to their target level (chosen for the desired amount of sweetness), they add finings (isinglass, if I remember correctly) and then quick-chill the beer. The fast chilling shocks the yeast, causing it to precipitate out and stopping all fermentation dead in its tracks. (The finings help speed the precipitation, for clearer beer sooner.) They keep the beer cold from that point on, so that essentially no further fermentation takes place. Carbonation is supplied in the aging tank by CO2 pressure. They don't filter or pasteurize the beer. (This was interesing to me: they used to filter the beer, but stopped because they felt that filtering was taking away too much of the flavor. I sampled all of their brews, and they were crystal clear.) Now, I can't see any way to make this work if (like me) you're bottling your homebrew. It could work if you kegged your beer, kept it refrigerated, and consumed it fast enough. Here are a few other suggestions for sweeter brews: 1. Add some crystal malt, as somebody else has already suggested. Or, try using some Munich malt. I've had good luck with that. 2. Use higher mash temperatures. If you're using a step mash, don't let the mash linger too long at the lower temperature, and don't take too long in raising the temperature between steps. I am finding that precise control of temperature *and* time (we're talking minutes here) really do make a substantial difference. 3. Cut down a little on the bittering hops. Even though that doesn't change the amount of residual sugar in the beer, it makes it *seem* sweeter. 4. Try different strains of yeast. I've been experimenting with the various strains from Wyeast. They produce quite different results. Wyeast prints a sheet describing the characteristics of each of their yeasts. You can probably get a copy from your local homebrew supply store. 5. (Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong on this one.) Try a higher fermentation temperature. I'm pretty sure that the resulting faster fermentation will leave more residual sugars. You'll also get more fruitiness, though. (Not a bad thing for ales, in my opinion. Not even a bad thing for lagers, if you're willing to throw authenticity out the window.) -- John Polstra jdp at polstra.UUCP Polstra & Co., Inc. ...{uunet,sun}!practic!polstra!jdp Seattle, WA (206) 932-6482 Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #172, 06/09/89
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