HOMEBREW Digest #1744 Tue 30 May 1995

Digest #1743 Digest #1745

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  SUGAR INFO (part 2) (rdevine)
  SUGAR INFO (part 1) (rdevine)
  RIMS systems etc. (wyatt)
  No More!  Piper + Extract (ppatino)
  Rust cleaner/"green apple quick step" (Lance Skidmore)
  Styles, Redux (Martin Lodahl)
  mercury (JimmyNick)
  Ginger Ale ("Robert W. Mech")
  Hot Brewing Alternative ("Robert W. Mech")
  Re:  Bad News Bungs on Minikeg (SMKRANZ)
  Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #17... (Beersgood)
  spontaneous siphon bubbles (STEVE GRIMMER)
  Andy Walsh is Sydney's Champ Homebrewer (David Draper)
  info (Krusekopf Jens)
  Re: Extract Brewers (Michael Collins)
  My confession='Normal' intake (Michael Collins)
  Foamy Beer (potlatch.esd112.wednet.eduoel harms)
  Re: Electric Stoves (Chris Strickland)
  Re: mutating yeast (Chris Strickland)
  RE: Full Sail IPA (potlatch.esd112.wednet.eduoel harms)
  TK White (Wit) (Elde)
  Silicone Hose and Steam  Injection (Art Steinmetz)
  Digest Reading (McKee Smith)
  5l Minikegs (" Robert Bloodworth                            ZFBTO    - MT0054")
  Automatic bottle fillers (" Robert Bloodworth                            ZFBTO    - MT0054")
  HopSicle (Daniel Paris)
  Crystal Malts (dflagg)
  Secondary aging/carbonation (MZemenick)
  Rick's Wicked Summer Ale ("Rick Gontarek, Ph.D.")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 26 May 95 11:43:11 TZ From: rdevine at microsoft.com Subject: SUGAR INFO (part 2) SUGAR INFO (part 2) Bob Devine rdevine at microsoft.com SYRUPS, PROCESSED SUGARS Invert sugar : This is simply sucrose (aka, table sugar) that has been subjected to "hydrolysis" which breaks the disaccharide sucrose into its constituent sugars. The fructose is inverted (made into its optical isomer). The inversion process involves adding acid and is usually done at high temperatures to speed up the process. Alternately, the invertase enzyme can be used. raw sugar / Sucanat (tm) The only unrefined sugar available to the average consumer seems to be Sucanat, an evaporated sugar cane syrup. Raw beet sugar is reputed to be unsavory. It may be possible in some markets to get other raw sugars (e.g., in Hawaii, pineapple sugar may be sometimes found). Demerara / turbinado / "Sugar in the Raw" (tm): This is crystalizable sugar from the first step of refinement. It has a tan to brown color from the residual impurities. Some food faddists attribute beneficial results from using this but unless a lot is consumed, the potential benefits are very low. Demerara is the UK term; turbinado the US (and Spanish language?) term. Demerara is usually a dark brown shade while turbinado is lighter, more of a tan or taupe color. It is ~98% sugar with some residual proteins and unfermentable carbohydrates present. molasses / treacle : This is the residue of the sugar after the crystalized portion has been removed. The choice of names for this sugar syrup seem to reflect regional language preferences rather than any major differences. In the US, "molasses" is the preferred term while in the UK and ex-colonies, "treacle" is used. Regular treacle is an inverted sugar produced from the residue of refinement. The acid treatment darkens it. Molasses is filtered and may have a sulfur compound added to sterilize and stabilize it. "Black treacle" is roughly the same flavor as "blackstrap molasses" however treacle may be produced differently. While there are differences between the differently named syrups, there is also a wide variability within syrups of the same name! Find one company's product you like since that may be the only level of consistency obtainable. Light molasses is roughly 90% sugar. Blackstrap is about 50% sugar and has a wide variety of crud remaining. golden syrup / Lyle's Golden Syrup(tm) : Like molasses, this is a syrup that remains after the crystallizable sugars have been removed. However, since the syrup is removed later in the refinement process, it does not have as heavy a taste or color as molasses. Lyle & Tate's product is derived from cane sugar. The syrup has been inverted using a strong acid (hydrochloric acid, I think) and then counter-acted by the addition of base (NaOH) after a short time. Some of the golden color is from the acid treatment. A salty taste comes from the acid + base combining to form NaCl. brown sugar : In the US, this is just refined sugar with some molasses added back in. The US food law says that only refined sugar (no raw components) can be sold with this name. This law may actually have more to do with enforcing a similar taste for both sugar beets and sugar cane since the beets, when un-refined, have a poorer taste than cane. [ Sidenote: with the possible elimination of sugar support prices in the US, this category may change...] Compare this to Piloncillo (Mexican brown sugar) which is a semi-refined granulated sugar. candy sugar / Belgium candy sugar / sucre candi / candij sugar : This sugar is commonly used in Belgium beers. It comes in several colors - light to dark. When added to beer, it thins out the high gravity beers and contributes color and, for the dark version, some residual caramel flavors. Candy sugar is sucrose. Its production is the same as for rock candy (i.e., slow crystallization of a concentrated sugar solution) made from straight sucrose so a brewer should be able to substitute regular sugar for it. Dark candy sugar has been carmelized before it is crystalized. corn syrup : Basically glucose with water. May have maltose. Beware about buying the typical grocery store version because it _might_ have some vanillin/vanilla as a flavoring. Additionally, some brands have a preservative that could affect fermentation. Dark corn syrup is just the regular syrup with some coloring. Use wherever you would use straight glucose/dextrose such as priming. OTHER SUGARS Honey : Honey is a complex mix of sugars but it is mainly glucose (roughly 30%, by weight) and fructose (40%) in invert form; the bees supply the invertase, which is the enzyme that inverts the fructose. Honey's make-up is not consistent - it varies by source, season, region, and producer. It is about 75% fermentable sugar; the remainder is water, proteins, some minerals, etc. jaggery : Un- or semi-refined date sugar. lactose / milk sugar : An unfermentable sugar (at least by ordinary beer yeasts) often used to boost the residual sweetness as in "milk stouts". maltose syrup : Some UK recipes call for this. To make it, you mix glucose and a dextrin powder in a 4:1 ratio. The 20% dextrin will remain unfermented and therefore lends body and mouthfeel that a pure sugar syrup would not. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 11:42:41 TZ From: rdevine at microsoft.com Subject: SUGAR INFO (part 1) Alan Keig (akeig at library.adelaide.edu.au) wrote in HBD #1739: > American 'corn sugar' seems to be exactly the same as what we in Australia > know as 'white sugar'/'table sugar'/'sucrose' -- in other words, that white > crystalline stuff that you can use to sweeten your coffee. [SNIP] > So, American corn sugar is Maize (corn) sugar (fermentable), or sucrose. No, that is not correct. US corn sugar = glucose. Cane sugar = sucrose. Here's listing of different sugars (anybody want to add this to a FAQ?). Correction & additions gratefully accepted! ++++++++++++++++++++ Bob Devine rdevine at microsoft.com SUGAR INFO (part 1) Saccharomyces cerevisiae translates to sugar eating beer fungus.... SIMPLE AND REFINED SUGARS glucose / dextrose / "blood sugar" / corn sugar : Glucose is a monosaccharide. This simple sugar is derivable from converted starches such as what happens when mashing malted grain. Sugar processors can make this sugar from a variety of sources - corn (maize), wheat, rice, potatoes, in short, anything with cheap starch can be a input into the process. However if not completely refined down to simple sugars, some of the origin can be discerned. The "right handed" variation of glucose is called dextrose. maltose : A dissacharide made up of two glucose molecules. Completely fermentable. Contributes ~45 points per pound. fructose / "fruit sugar": Another monosaccharide. In all-malt beers, this normally appears as only few percent of the wort. Yeasts will rapidly ferment this but there might be some problems (I can't recall but I seem to remember that Dave Miller's book describes the problem as a "spill over effect" that causes some off-flavors due to the production of different fermentation products.) Fructose tastes much sweeter than glucose or even the combination of fructose + glucose (= sucrose). That's why big food processing companies use "high fuctose" sugars because they get more bang for the buck by using less of a sweeter tasting sugar. On the other hand, to continue the digression, lots of hard-core CocaCola drinkers like the less sweet sugars since it requires more which makes a thicker, more viscous soft drink.. See the entry for "sucrose" for a description of how the "high fructose" syrup is made. Fructose is also called levulose because that form rotates light in a left handed direction. sucrose / table sugar / cane sugar : Sucrose is a disaccharide composed of one molecule of glucose and one of fructose. More precisely, it is dextrose plus dextrorotary fructose. It must be broken apart before the yeasts can use it. When heated in an acidic solution (such as wort) the sugar is inverted to make D-(+)-glucose and D-(-)-fructose. Yeasts will invert the sucrose if it is not already in that form before using by using invertase. It is derived from sugar beets or sugar cane that are crushed and dissolved in water. The raw syrup is boiled down to concentrate it to a point where some fraction crystallizes. The remaining heavy syrup (see "molasses") is separated from the 95+% pure sugar. The crystals are further processed several times to increase its purity yielding, eventually, the pure white crystals we commonly use. Some other commonly used sugars are also produced during the processing. A complaint in the early days of modern homebrewing was that using table sugar in beer-making resulted in a "cidery" beer. The symptoms were that a beer made with table sugar that was added to the boil produced a cidery flavor that faded after several weeks in the bottle. Therefore the rule of thumb became 'avoid all table sugar'. While this is still a good idea when using malt extract, this old-(ale)wives tale is misleading. That defect most likely came from poor yeast due to a too low pitch, insufficient free-available-nitrogen, or a lack of other necessary yeast building materials in the wort. Table sugar can be used in small amounts with no harm and it is certainly cheaper to use for priming. This simple colorless sugar will lighten the body of a beer since it can be completely fermented. It also lightens the beer color (hmm, negative lovibond rating? :-) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 11:51:37 pst From: wyatt at Latitude.COM Subject: RIMS systems etc. Hello All, I have been thinking about either building or buying a RIMS system. I have tried to access the Stanford archives through ftpmail but haven't been able to retrieve the files as of yet. I know about and have gotten information from Sabco about their BrewMagic system but the info they send is lacking in any type of technical spec's. Are there other ready made systems out there? If so, what do they cost and does anyone have their address, phone number or E-Mail address? I have been reading the postings about the Pico System but it doesn't quite sound like a RIMS system although it sounds like it might be easily converted, I would like their address if anyone has it. I might build one (a RIMS system) but time is in short supply these days and would rather buy one if the quality and price are right. I would like to hear from anyone who has used or has any information relevant to this subject. On the subject of newbies and extract brewers, I think that some may be a little too sensitive. I really haven't seen much bashing of them on the HBD. If you think the little jokes about "Is my beer ruined" is bashing new brewers then you are too sensitive. It's just that some subjects have been gone over numerous times and, people being people, some get a little cranky that their favorite subjects don't get as much bandwidth as they'd like. There are exceptions of course. One word of caution that I would like to stress to new brewers - DON'T ACCEPT SOME OF THE "INFORMATION" THAT IS POSTED HERE AS GOSPEL. I am amazed at times at the amount of misinformation that is posted as absolute "fact". Use the information but research it first. You might be glad you did. I'm not putting down the HBD just take it for what it is - a discussion about the topic of brewing, NOT a textbook. Of course if someone like Jim Busch or George Fix is the source of information then the credibility quotient goes up accordingly. One thing I don't understand about the HBD is some of the tangents that the postings take. Take for example the mercury thread now going on. Someone was concerned about their brewpot because they broke a thermometer (there is even some controversy whether this was a hoax or not). Now it seems that the discussion has turned ito a medical discussion about the toxicity of mercury. What does this have to do with brewing? I would think a warning about the use of mercury thermometers would be enough. Hopefully everyone knows that putting mercury in the brewpot is not a good idea. Multiple postings on subjects are inevitable but can't we keep it to brewing. Sometimes the relationship to brewing gets stretched a little too far. One last thing, did anyone find a source for sweet gale seeds? I know someone made a posting a while back but I never found out whether a sourc was located or not. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 18:03:32 EDT From: ppatino <PPATINO at UGA.CC.UGA.EDU> Subject: No More! Piper + Extract Is there any one else out there who is as sick of hearing about the perils or lack thereof of mercury as I am? I was under the impression, apparently incor- rect,that the topic of this board was BREWING, not prattling on ad nauseum about mercury! By god, enough is enough here, people! Re - Sam Piper: Bravo! I tend to agree that the current system of beer com- petitions is seriously flawed. I'm not entirely certain if I agree with your statement about beers being penalized if and to the degree that they fail to clone the archetype of a style. Recently, a brewing colleague of mine (an award winning brewer, I might add) advised that if I wanted to win in a comp- etition, I should brew a caracature of what ever style I was entering. It seems to me that the current philosophy in beer judging is "bigger is better." An over-emphasis on rigorously defined styles in competition seems destined to stifle home brewing; at the very least, it is going to create a rather peculiar sub-culture, reminicent of dog people and the American Kennel Club, who go around lauding artificially inbred animals for measuring up to completely arbitrary standards. (Probable flame zone) Re - Extract Brewers: All hail the mighty CAN OF MALT!! I am an extract brewer, and I am proud of it! I have tasted many excellent all-grain home brews. That said, I have also tasted many excellent extract based home brews. I can say without reservation, that the all-grain brews were no better than the extract based brews. I can brew good beer in about 2 hrs., start to clean-up. I don't think I'll be getting rid of my can-opener any time soon. Remember, we represent (conservatively) 80% of the hobby! Dis us at your own peril! "This space intentionally left without catchy quote." Paul Patino Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 21:53:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Lance Skidmore <lskidmor at linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> Subject: Rust cleaner/"green apple quick step" Regarding the recent thread concerning cleaning up rusty stainless, citric acid works miracles on rust. It's safe to use (compared to other acids), can go down the drain without harming the environment and is less labor intensive than scrubbing with a brush. BTW, it's good for cleaning out your car's radiator as well. I work at a shipyard and they use it for cleaning out nasty bilges. A co-worker of mine recently popped open some bottles of his first-ever attempt at homebrewing with several of his friends. He said it tasted OK and had no strange odors, but within 20 minutes, three out of four of them had what we here in Washington call the "green apple quick step" and the bathroom was quite busy for the remainder of the evening. He described his process for making this extract brew and it sounds like his sanitation was careful, so I'm at a loss to explain what went wrong. He offered me a sample to critique, but judging from his experience, I politely declined. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Private E-mail is fine. Thanks! Lance lskidmor at linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 21:52:25 PDT From: Martin Lodahl <malodah at kriek.scrm2700.PacBell.COM> Subject: Styles, Redux I'm sorry if I end up posting two messages; after sending my first message on this subject I realized it didn't accurately reflect my position. I intended to cancel the message when I got the autobot reply, but that never arrived. Here's Issue 2, similar, but different in important ways: == I'd like to offer an opinion on the question of the validity of brewing to style. As I'm Styles Editor of Brewing Techniques magazine, a long- time judge and contest organizer, and a recent addition to the BJCC, you can guess what that opinion is. This question seems to come up now and then. Why is it an issue? If you can't personally relate to brewing within an agreed-upon set of intentions and standards, then don't do it! What could be simpler? What is it to you, if others have decided that they can speed their growth as brewers by using the feedback they get from contests? Personally, I think they're on the right track. Yes, contests impose an artificial set of standards, and in fact the concept of styles is an after-the-fact means of classifying beers as we find them. Without styles, though, judging becomes meaningless; all you can say about a beer is either, "May I have some more?", or "Take this sheepdip away!" What's being judged in a contest is what the brewer's intentions were, and how close they came to realizing those intentions. The motto of the builders of the Gothic cathedrals was "Ars sine Sciencia nihil est;" they understood that intentions aren't worth much if you can't carry them out. Technical competence is not enough, though, to make a beer a winner, unless the other beers in the flight are a pretty sorry lot (which happens). To be creative within narrow limits is a difficult art to practice. It asks a lot of a brewer, but pays amazing dividends to those who master it, especially if they plan to turn pro. I personally would never consider investing my own money and effort in a commercial brewery if I didn't feel I could very precisely "visualize" a beer, and then produce exactly what I'd visualized, repeatedly. To do otherwise is to rely pretty heavily on luck. I know this sounds like a condemnation of those who choose to ignore styles, but that's not my intention. I've been handed many tasty and interesting beers by brewers uninterested in styles and standards. But the only truly great beers I've had, beers of remarkable depth and truth, came from people who actively sought the evaluation of their work by others. That's why I feel that the whole styles & judging approach is valid. In my neighborhood, chicken farmers never cull their own flocks, but ask a neighbor to do it for them, so their feelings won't get in the way of their judgement. So it is with our brewing. We can blind ourselves to things that keep us from growing as brewers. If you feel you're not doing that, and you already brew exactly the beer you want to brew, then fine, don't change a thing. That too is a valid approach. To a degree, I think that the question of styles is related to why we brew, and I think we can agree that there are a lot of different "right" reasons for that. Before this turns into an essay, let me just toss out this thought: Some feel more comfortable brewing all-grain; others would prefer to use extracts and not be nagged about it. Some like Papazian's books; others prefer Miller's. Some brew to styles; some don't. Big deal. - Martin = Martin Lodahl Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning Pacific*Bell = = malodah at pacbell.com Sacramento, CA USA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! (Unk.) = Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 01:54:16 -0400 From: JimmyNick at aol.com Subject: mercury I agree that this thread should've been put to bed long, long, long ago. It arose, as I recall, from a simple question: If one breaks a mercury thermometer in one's mash/wort/whatever, should one toss the brew? Answer: Yes. Plain and simple. Dental amalgams etc. aside, it is beyond dispute that mercury is bad, bad, bad. Let the psuedo-scientists debate 'til the cows come home about tooth fillings etc. But I challenge -- no, I dare -- anyone to dispute that such a concentration level as a broken thermometer isn't bad. If you have any sense and social conscience, you'll treat the broken mercury thermometer as hazardous waste. Beyond that, this thread is ludicrous. To those who wish to postulate about scientific theories about dental amalgams etc., I encourage you to take your posts to a dental board. But in closing, I submit this: Those of you who so pretentiously quote scientific studies on dental amalgams as an absolution of the irrefutable medical hazards of mercury --- and I refer specifically to Gary -- should look at the "scientific" studies of PBCs, DDT and dioxin from two decades ago when proclaiming the "studies" you quote as absolute truth. Better yet, look at the "scientific" studies of dioxin from five years ago, which claimed it was an overblown risk, and which have been overwhelmingly refuted in the last eight months. Mercury is bad. Whether it's bad in your fillings is immaterial. It's bad when you break your thermomether. Those who disagree are either blind to science (including Gary the All-Knowing) or are victims of too many toxins themselves. Now, let's get on with brewing topics, shall we? Return to table of contents
Date: 27 May 95 03:16:06 EDT From: "Robert W. Mech" <76271.3507 at compuserve.com> Subject: Ginger Ale I remember in a few HBD articles that somone had a recipie for "Ginger Ale" which was a non-alcohol recipie. What im looking for is some history into Ginger Ale, which I presume was originaly alcoholic. Id like a true Ginger Ale recipie if one exists, one which I imagine is a Ale, with ginger in it. Im also looking for the same information to Root Beer which If im not mistaken, there is a alcoholic recipie available. Any information on either topics would be great. TIA. Robert Return to table of contents
Date: 27 May 95 03:11:43 EDT From: "Robert W. Mech" <76271.3507 at compuserve.com> Subject: Hot Brewing Alternative Leonard Garfinkel Writes: >>Now that we are on the subject of mutations, I'd like to hear from anyone who knows how the professionals select their yeast for certain traits. I mentioned above that mutations will only show themselves if they give some selective advantage to the mutated cells. Otherwise, they will grow at the same rate as the rest of the cells. Now, here in Israel, we have HOT summers. I tried brewing last summer with wet towels around my bucket fermentor with ok results. But it's a hassle. I am currently brewing a batch with Cooper's yeast (thanks to Andy Walsh in Australia for the suggestion and the yeast-thanks, Andy!). We had a couple days this week where the temp was 30C in the house. The fermentation went just fine. I would like to keep passing the yeast from batch to batch and hopefully select a strain which is even happier at higher temperatures than the Coopers. Yeast which had mutated would be more prevalent since they are better able to grow at higher temps (selective advantage). Any comments?<< Did you ever consider underground? If you have a yard, you might just try and dig a hole and place it in the ground. I currently ferment my beer in a closet in the lower level of my townhome during the summer months. No matter how hot it is, this area of the house (which is actualy at ground level) has a cement slab, which seems to stay cool. I know that when I visited missouri last year and the "Meremake Caves" it was always cool underground. Now, im not suggesting you dig a 50' hole to brew beer in, however you might make something 1' or so deeper than your fermentor, and place a piece of plywood over the top. I would think this could keep your beer sufficently cool even in some of the hottest summer days. I'd also pick a spot that gets mostly shade, or "early morning" sun, which is usualy cooler than the "after noon" sun. I think keeping your beer cooler would be a better soluition to finding a yeast strain that ferments hot. Robert Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 10:45:12 -0400 From: SMKRANZ at aol.com Subject: Re: Bad News Bungs on Minikeg I use a mini keg which I purchased new full of a German beer called Tucker's. The bung is the same as others I've purchased with other, empty mini kegs. I've seen two kinds of bungs, one called Datagraph and one called Fassfrich. Not sure right now which is which, but one of them is a real bitch to get out. Steve Kranz smkranz at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 11:03:29 -0400 From: Beersgood at aol.com Subject: Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #17... Bill Rucker wrote: "awhile back there was a comment about homebrewers being too cautious about cleanliness." I'm pretty new at this and often think that I am being too cautious, by spraying Lysol before I force cool my Wort, because the lid will be off, and so forth. I take every possible precaution I can think of even wearing a mask when I innoculate slants. But then I figure, Hey, I've got $20+ worth of ingeredients into this, why not be a little careful? Can it hurt to be too careful when it comes to this? How can a clean steril environement, hurt the flavor of the beer? The extra time it takes is less than the time spent at a stop light. I stick with being cautious and enjoying my excellent beer! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 12:31:04 -0400 (EDT) From: STEVE GRIMMER <S18312SG at umassd.edu> Subject: spontaneous siphon bubbles Dear Brewers, Last night, I was getting ready to bottle a Pale Ale and was siphoning from the secondary to the bottling tub (what's the "proper" term for that?) and noticed something strange. Little bubbles were forming in the hose. Just one little guy at first, rolling about against the flow, then two, and more and more. I found I could sort of chase them down to the tub by changing the curve of the hose, but sure enough, in a minute or so, there's another one. This game continued throughout the siphoning. IMBR? :^) Seriously, though, what were these bubbles? CO2? O2? Air? The "in" end of the hose was way down in the beer so it wasnt sucking air. Is this a normal thing that I haven't noticed with the darker beers I normally brew? Oh. OG: 1.044, FG: 1.010 for four days running. TIA Steve Grimmer UMass/Dartmouth Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 18:12:06 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au> Subject: Andy Walsh is Sydney's Champ Homebrewer Dear Friends, I'd like to publicly congratulate Andy "Mercury Mouth" Walsh for winning the Eastern Suburbs Brewmakers (ESB) 1995 Autumn Ale Competition's Hahn Trophy. The ESB competition represents one of the largest and arguably best collections of homebrewers in Australia. Each year ESB holds two major comps, ales in the autumn and lagers in the spring (and a bunch of less formal affairs), and the BOS in each comp holds the Hahn Trophy for the ensuing six months. This year there were 88 ales entered in 4 main classes: pale ales, dark ales, wheat beers, and stouts. Andy's splendid pale ale was best PA and best in the competition overall. He has a wild tale to tell about how this beer was brewed, and I hope he will favor the HBD with it! Well done Andy! Cheers, Dave in Sydney - -- "Never trust a brewer who has only one chin" ---Aidan Heerdegen ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper at mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428 ....I'm not from here, I just live here.... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 12:10:46 +0200 From: krusekoj at Papin.HRZ.Uni-Marburg.DE (Krusekopf Jens) Subject: info help info mail Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 12:18:48 -0700 From: equinox at halcyon.com (Michael Collins) Subject: Re: Extract Brewers >On Extract Brewers; >From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) >>>I feel that far too many people look down on extract >>>brewers -- even many extract brewers appologize for being >>>extract brewers. >From: Elde at aol.com >Amen! The situation here is such that we (local begining >extract brewers) are considering forming our OWN club. The >local all grainers are not too keen on us.... Which is sad >because of the experience not available to us. I have been reading HBD for six months now. Well, there are a few busy days when I hit the filter button to archive unread messages, but I find that I have built up a good 'database' of brewing info that I can search on for answers. I have done that many times. I had a fleeting thought that I want to suggest to the group. What if we split HBD into two: intermediate/extract brewers and all-grainers. General brewing topics can be sent to either at the discretion of the posting individual. Personally, I would continue to subscribe and archive or read both. I haven't done much all-grain brewing, but hope to someday have the cash to upgrade equipment, and so the advanced topics help prepare me for that day. It may assist those with a specific interest to focus their efforts. It would also help to clarify if the techniques discussed are relevant to someone's skill level. And if it doesn't work it can always be switched back. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 12:18:54 -0700 From: equinox at halcyon.com (Michael Collins) Subject: My confession='Normal' intake My confession: I love beer, I love to drink beer. However, I do *not* like to get 'trashed' and have never really boasted about amounts. I imbibe socially, but also simply love the taste of beer (especially my own homebrew). I believe I have a good internal mechanism that stops me from drinking when I have had 'enough,' and slows down my intake when hanging out with friends. I think of beer as I think a beverage much as others do soda, 90% of my liquid intake is 1) water, 2) Beer, 3) Coffee (in that order). Why am I posting this on HBD? Since starting to homebrew (and especially since kegging) I have been concerned about intake. Mostly because of the puritanical attitude of many Americans that frown on alcohol consumption that makes it seem somehow wrong to drink beer. I don't tell many people at work about my homebrew hobby, and lost a job once for printing labels on the work laserwriter (a one time offense when my home computer was down). I have tried to make the personal choice not to care what others deem moral and to drink a beer everyday (I mean everyday). When I have a good brew, I have a second (not too many thirds). On top of this I may spend an evening or two a week with friends to sample a few brews (maybe two to four pints). I would say that I average 10-12 (12 oz) brews per week. That is not a boast, but wonder whether that fits into a range comparable to other brewers? I would appreciate some feedback on whether this is 'normal' I want to leave you with a quote from Pat G. Babcock from an earlier HBD: "Let a good beer be the exclamation point at the end of your day as every sentence requires proper punctuation." Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 15:00:33 -0700 (PDT) From: potlatch.esd112.wednet.eduoel harms <jharms at potlatch.esd112.wednet.edu> Subject: Foamy Beer Greetings to all! I have been lurking for sometime now and I have finally come across a problem that my fellow brewers could solve. The problem: I get half beer and half foam when pouring from my tap. The beer was force-carbonated; 30 lbs. CO2 at 38 F. and a total of 180 seconds of shaking. The beer was left for 3 days at 38 F. with 30 lbs. CO2 in the headspace (CO2 disconnected). I poured the beer using the pressure from the corny and it came out just fine; normal carbonation and normal head. As the pressure ran down I connected the CO2 with 11 lbs. of pressure. I poured some beer the next day and I got half beer and half head. This was the case for my last batch of beer also. Is the pressure about right? Should I crank the pressure up? My line is about 2-3 ft. long if that makes any difference and my CO2 tank is in the fridge. Any help would beerly be appreciated. Joel Harms (jharms at esd112.wednet.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 21:27:49 -0400 From: cstrick at iu.net (Chris Strickland) Subject: Re: Electric Stoves I've been using an electric stove for nearly two years now. I burnt out both elements on my stove (they're what sends the current to the burner). Cost me about $9 a piece. What I've started doing now is cooking at only medium high, but with the covers on my two 4 gallon stainless steel pots. Only problem is I have to watch alot closer because I'm more likely to have a boil-over. One year I'll get a propane burner, but only when I can find a cheap used 8 gallon stainless pot. Hopefully for around $50, (yes I know I'm dreaming). Shoot, the local used cookware stores were selling alumium pots for $80 - $100. - -------------- Chris Strickland cstrick at iu.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 21:29:08 -0400 From: cstrick at iu.net (Chris Strickland) Subject: Re: mutating yeast While we're on the subject. I've gone five generations when I've been too lazy to buy new yeast. In the bad batches I've had, they all come from the first starter, not from repitching onto old yeast. When I pitch a new starter, it takes between 12 and 36 hours to start fermentation. On the 2nd, and follow-on generations it takes less than 4 hours. That's why I prefer reusing the yeast cake as much as possible. Here's a thought for cleaning the yeast cake. Pour the sludge into sterilized mason jars, fill about 1/3, then fill with sterilized water. Close and let settle. Do this again and use this yeast for re-pitching. Pros, cons? Any other thoughts? - -------------- Chris Strickland cstrick at iu.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 20:56:19 -0700 (PDT) From: potlatch.esd112.wednet.eduoel harms <jharms at potlatch.esd112.wednet.edu> Subject: RE: Full Sail IPA I read a posting a few days ago asking about the type of hops Full Sail uses in their IPA. Unfortunately I have accidently deleted it (probably having a homebrew). According to the booklet from the Oregon Brewer's Festival '94, the IPA is made from Pale and Carastan malts; Challenger and EKG hops. Sorry if this has already been answered in previous postings. Joel Harms (jharms at esd112.wednet.edu) Castle Rock, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 01:17:29 -0400 From: Elde at aol.com Subject: TK White (Wit) While up at the Thomas Kemper brewery today, I tasted their new White (Wit?) beer. I was *quite* impressed. Does anyone have an extract/partial mash recipe for Wit? Derek A *proud* extract brewer! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 May 95 08:33:56 EDT From: (Art Steinmetz) Subject: Silicone Hose and Steam Injection I'm constructing a steam injection mash system (SIMS) along the lines of the BT article. Making the steam line entirely of copper is impractical since this is a system I have to break down after brewing and if my 3-yr old twins get a hold of it (in it's cool state, of course) it will be kink city. Therefore I'd like to use flexible hose for most of the line length. The auto parts store has 1/4"ID "silicone vacuum hose." It's rated to 300 deg. F. at 25 in./Hg. of pressure (vacuum?). Obviously it's not "food grade" but is it safe? It has a phenolic smell that may be from a preservative coating. I'm washing it and running a potload of steam through it to see if the last runnings have any off taste to 'em (I'll let the steam condense before I taste it :-) ). Any comments on the suitability of this stuff appreciated. Private replies will be condensed for the benifit of the digest. TIA. - -- Art asteinm at pipeline.com 76044,3204 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 12:25:37 -0500 From: mcksmith at iadfw.net (McKee Smith) Subject: Digest Reading I was talking to a fellow HBD reader the other day and he asked how I read HBD. He uses his normal mail reader which means he has to scroll through a lot of pages. I told him I used a Mac program called Digest Browser, which cuts my screen into two windows. The top window is the subject line (or date or author) of the messages. You just click on the subject that interests you and the bottom half of the screen displays the message. It is great if you do like I do and often read several HBD's at once! It is available by ftp at any of the Info-Mac mirror sites. I'm sure there is a windows equivalent but I don't know what it is. If anyone out there is using such a program, could you post the name and location for everyone! Thanks. McKee Smith Email: Mcksmith at iadfw.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 04:39:47 EDT From: " Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054" <debaydr9 at ibmmail.com> Subject: 5l Minikegs Dave Sanderson asked about different bungs in 5 liter minikegs. Yes Dave, you're right, there are two types of bungs used here in Germany. Frisch bungs are made of soft rubber and are reuseable. The second type are polypropylene coverd with rubber. These are a bitch to remove. I get them out with a pair of vise-grips. Tear off the rim and just yank that baby out as best you can. Luckily, all of the 5l cans from Germany are made by the same company and can be used with both types of bung. Frisch sells their bungs at 1 DM each for small orders. Check your local homebrew shop. Bob Bloodworth Cologne Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 05:32:44 EDT From: " Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054" <debaydr9 at ibmmail.com> Subject: Automatic bottle fillers I've been using an automatic filler for wine to fill my bottled beer. This directs the flow of the beer radially along the walls of the bottle. When the bottle is full, a float cuts off the flow from the siphon tube. The filler is very fast and convenient, but I'm a bit worried about aerating the beer too much. I've only been brewing a few months and my beer doesn't last long enough to make judgements about long term stability problems. I would be interested in hearing from people who have used such a filling device. Did you or do you have problems with oxidation and off flavors? Can someone describe the effect of aeration/oxidation on beer flavor? In what time frame to the off flavors develop? TIA Bob Bloodworth Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 07:57:42 -0400 From: ac135 at freenet.carleton.ca (Daniel Paris) Subject: HopSicle I have just planted Hallertau hops in my backyard for the first time. While talking to my local beer buddy he told me that instead of drying his hops he freezes them. 1. Take a typical hop weight you would use for a batch. 2. Put it into a small plastic container 3. Cover it with water 4. Freeze it 5. Take it out of the container 6. Put it into a plastic bag. Remove air. 7. Freeze the bag. To use, just drop the "HopSicle" into the wort. What about some comments on this procedure folks ? Daniel Paris. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 09:35:21 -0400 From: dflagg at agate.net Subject: Crystal Malts Andy Kligerman asked: > Nobody responded to the body of my post re: getting a dark purple > iodine test when steeping cra pils from Dewolf-Crosyns. > should crystal malts give positive starch tests when they are not > mashed. Crystal Malts are created by heating green malt in a closed kiln. Closing the kiln keeps the moisture in. Each individual kernal of malt acts as a mini-mash and converts the starch to sugar. When the kiln is vented, the barley drys and hardens to a sugar lump within the hull. Unfortunately, this is a pretty crude way to do a mash and conversion is not always 100 pct complete. So, yes, you will get a positive starch test from crystal if it is not mashed with other grain, but, in the amounts normally used, the uncoverted starch does not present a problem. ************************************************************ Doug Flagg | "A Homebrew a day... dflagg at orono.sdi.agate.net | Keeps the Worries away!" ************************************************************ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 10:15:33 -0400 From: MZemenick at aol.com Subject: Secondary aging/carbonation I typically age my brew at 33 degrees F for 3 to 4 weeks after about 10 to 14 days of primary fermentation. After this aging process I artificially corbonate with CO2. My questions are, 1. is it better to age the beer carbonated? or if the aging period lasts longer then 3 to 4 weeks should it be carbonated then? or as I have been doing, age for however long then carbonate several days before drinking. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 11:39:03 -0400 (EDT) From: "Rick Gontarek, Ph.D." <GONTAREK at FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV> Subject: Rick's Wicked Summer Ale Hi everyone! A few have asked for a clone of Pete's new Wicked Summer Ale. This is not a clone, but an attempt to create a quaffable, refreshing brew for summertime consumption. It is basically a low-hopped ale with wheat malt and some lemon added for flavor. IMHO, a fine brewski for enjoying along with some charcoal-grilled swordfish, grilled red peppers, grilled vidalia onions, and fresh Summer berries. Ah, but I digress... Rick's Wicked Summer Ale (Wheat ale flavored w/ lemon) 4 lbs. American 2-row pale malt 3 lbs American 6-row pale malt (had some sitting around) 3 lbs wheat malt 1/2 cup crystal malt (40L) 1 oz cascade pellets (6.3%AAU) 1/2 ounce Tettneng pellets -flavor-(4.5%AAU) Grated lemon peel from 2 lemons (do *not* use the bitter white pith) Juice from 2 lemons Wyeast 1056 500ml starter Step-mash: Add 2.25 gal of 54degC water to crushed grains and stabilize to 50-51degC for 30 min. Add 1.25 gallons of 93degC water to bring temp to 65degC; hold there for 90 min. Mash out, sparge, etc. Bring wort to a boil and add Cascade hops. After 30 min, add 1/2 ounce tettnang hops, lemon peel, and lemon juice. Boil for another 30 min or so until volume is about 6 gallons. Chill wort, put into fermenter, let trub settle out for a few hours, transfer clear wort to a sanitized glass carboy, and pitch yeast. OG= 1.052 (for a lighter beer, bring volume to six gallons) When bottling, add 3/4 cup corn sugar and juice and zest from 2 lemons. This is a nice refreshing brew with a hint of lemon. Let me know if you brew and enjoy this one! Rick Gontarek Owner/brewmaster of the Major Groove Picobrewery Baltimore, MD soon to be relocated to Frederick, MD gontarek at fcrfv1.ncifcrf.gov Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1744, 05/30/95