HOMEBREW Digest #1744 Tue 30 May 1995
Digest #1743
Digest #1745
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
SUGAR INFO (part 2) (rdevine)
SUGAR INFO (part 1) (rdevine)
RIMS systems etc. (wyatt)
No More! Piper + Extract (ppatino)
Rust cleaner/"green apple quick step" (Lance Skidmore)
Styles, Redux (Martin Lodahl)
mercury (JimmyNick)
Ginger Ale ("Robert W. Mech")
Hot Brewing Alternative ("Robert W. Mech")
Re: Bad News Bungs on Minikeg (SMKRANZ)
Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #17... (Beersgood)
spontaneous siphon bubbles (STEVE GRIMMER)
Andy Walsh is Sydney's Champ Homebrewer (David Draper)
info (Krusekopf Jens)
Re: Extract Brewers (Michael Collins)
My confession='Normal' intake (Michael Collins)
Foamy Beer (potlatch.esd112.wednet.eduoel harms)
Re: Electric Stoves (Chris Strickland)
Re: mutating yeast (Chris Strickland)
RE: Full Sail IPA (potlatch.esd112.wednet.eduoel harms)
TK White (Wit) (Elde)
Silicone Hose and Steam Injection (Art Steinmetz)
Digest Reading (McKee Smith)
5l Minikegs (" Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054")
Automatic bottle fillers (" Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054")
HopSicle (Daniel Paris)
Crystal Malts (dflagg)
Secondary aging/carbonation (MZemenick)
Rick's Wicked Summer Ale ("Rick Gontarek, Ph.D.")
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Date: Fri, 26 May 95 11:43:11 TZ
From: rdevine at microsoft.com
Subject: SUGAR INFO (part 2)
SUGAR INFO (part 2)
Bob Devine rdevine at microsoft.com
SYRUPS, PROCESSED SUGARS
Invert sugar :
This is simply sucrose (aka, table sugar) that has been
subjected to "hydrolysis" which breaks the disaccharide
sucrose into its constituent sugars.
The fructose is inverted (made into its optical isomer).
The inversion process involves adding acid and is usually
done at high temperatures to speed up the process.
Alternately, the invertase enzyme can be used.
raw sugar / Sucanat (tm)
The only unrefined sugar available to the average consumer
seems to be Sucanat, an evaporated sugar cane syrup. Raw
beet sugar is reputed to be unsavory. It may be possible in
some markets to get other raw sugars (e.g., in Hawaii, pineapple
sugar may be sometimes found).
Demerara / turbinado / "Sugar in the Raw" (tm):
This is crystalizable sugar from the first step of refinement.
It has a tan to brown color from the residual impurities.
Some food faddists attribute beneficial results from using this
but unless a lot is consumed, the potential benefits are very low.
Demerara is the UK term; turbinado the US (and Spanish
language?) term. Demerara is usually a dark brown shade
while turbinado is lighter, more of a tan or taupe color.
It is ~98% sugar with some residual proteins and unfermentable
carbohydrates present.
molasses / treacle :
This is the residue of the sugar after the crystalized portion has
been removed. The choice of names for this sugar syrup
seem to reflect regional language preferences rather than
any major differences. In the US, "molasses" is the preferred
term while in the UK and ex-colonies, "treacle" is used.
Regular treacle is an inverted sugar produced from the
residue of refinement. The acid treatment darkens it.
Molasses is filtered and may have a sulfur compound added
to sterilize and stabilize it.
"Black treacle" is roughly the same flavor as "blackstrap
molasses" however treacle may be produced differently.
While there are differences between the differently named
syrups, there is also a wide variability within syrups of the
same name! Find one company's product you like since
that may be the only level of consistency obtainable.
Light molasses is roughly 90% sugar. Blackstrap is about
50% sugar and has a wide variety of crud remaining.
golden syrup / Lyle's Golden Syrup(tm) :
Like molasses, this is a syrup that remains after the crystallizable
sugars have been removed. However, since the syrup is
removed later in the refinement process, it does not have as
heavy a taste or color as molasses.
Lyle & Tate's product is derived from cane sugar. The syrup
has been inverted using a strong acid (hydrochloric acid, I
think) and then counter-acted by the addition of base (NaOH)
after a short time. Some of the golden color is from the
acid treatment. A salty taste comes from the acid + base
combining to form NaCl.
brown sugar :
In the US, this is just refined sugar with some molasses
added back in. The US food law says that only refined
sugar (no raw components) can be sold with this name.
This law may actually have more to do with enforcing
a similar taste for both sugar beets and sugar cane since
the beets, when un-refined, have a poorer taste than cane.
[ Sidenote: with the possible elimination of sugar support
prices in the US, this category may change...]
Compare this to Piloncillo (Mexican brown sugar) which is
a semi-refined granulated sugar.
candy sugar / Belgium candy sugar / sucre candi / candij sugar :
This sugar is commonly used in Belgium beers. It comes
in several colors - light to dark. When added to beer, it
thins out the high gravity beers and contributes color and,
for the dark version, some residual caramel flavors.
Candy sugar is sucrose. Its production is the same as for
rock candy (i.e., slow crystallization of a concentrated sugar
solution) made from straight sucrose so a brewer should be
able to substitute regular sugar for it. Dark candy sugar has
been carmelized before it is crystalized.
corn syrup :
Basically glucose with water. May have maltose. Beware about
buying the typical grocery store version because it _might_ have
some vanillin/vanilla as a flavoring. Additionally, some brands
have a preservative that could affect fermentation. Dark
corn syrup is just the regular syrup with some coloring.
Use wherever you would use straight glucose/dextrose
such as priming.
OTHER SUGARS
Honey :
Honey is a complex mix of sugars but it is mainly glucose
(roughly 30%, by weight) and fructose (40%) in invert form;
the bees supply the invertase, which is the enzyme that
inverts the fructose. Honey's make-up is not consistent -
it varies by source, season, region, and producer.
It is about 75% fermentable sugar; the remainder is
water, proteins, some minerals, etc.
jaggery :
Un- or semi-refined date sugar.
lactose / milk sugar :
An unfermentable sugar (at least by ordinary beer yeasts)
often used to boost the residual sweetness as in "milk stouts".
maltose syrup :
Some UK recipes call for this. To make it, you mix glucose
and a dextrin powder in a 4:1 ratio. The 20% dextrin will
remain unfermented and therefore lends body and mouthfeel
that a pure sugar syrup would not.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 11:42:41 TZ
From: rdevine at microsoft.com
Subject: SUGAR INFO (part 1)
Alan Keig (akeig at library.adelaide.edu.au) wrote in HBD #1739:
> American 'corn sugar' seems to be exactly the same as what we in Australia
> know as 'white sugar'/'table sugar'/'sucrose' -- in other words, that white
> crystalline stuff that you can use to sweeten your coffee. [SNIP]
> So, American corn sugar is Maize (corn) sugar (fermentable), or sucrose.
No, that is not correct. US corn sugar = glucose. Cane sugar = sucrose.
Here's listing of different sugars (anybody want to add this to a FAQ?).
Correction & additions gratefully accepted!
++++++++++++++++++++
Bob Devine
rdevine at microsoft.com
SUGAR INFO (part 1)
Saccharomyces cerevisiae translates to sugar eating beer fungus....
SIMPLE AND REFINED SUGARS
glucose / dextrose / "blood sugar" / corn sugar :
Glucose is a monosaccharide. This simple sugar is
derivable from converted starches such as what happens
when mashing malted grain. Sugar processors can make
this sugar from a variety of sources - corn (maize), wheat,
rice, potatoes, in short, anything with cheap starch can be a
input into the process. However if not completely refined
down to simple sugars, some of the origin can be discerned.
The "right handed" variation of glucose is called dextrose.
maltose :
A dissacharide made up of two glucose molecules.
Completely fermentable. Contributes ~45 points per pound.
fructose / "fruit sugar":
Another monosaccharide. In all-malt beers, this normally
appears as only few percent of the wort. Yeasts will rapidly
ferment this but there might be some problems (I can't recall
but I seem to remember that Dave Miller's book describes the
problem as a "spill over effect" that causes some off-flavors
due to the production of different fermentation products.)
Fructose tastes much sweeter than glucose or even the
combination of fructose + glucose (= sucrose). That's why
big food processing companies use "high fuctose" sugars
because they get more bang for the buck by using less of
a sweeter tasting sugar. On the other hand, to continue the
digression, lots of hard-core CocaCola drinkers like the
less sweet sugars since it requires more which makes a
thicker, more viscous soft drink..
See the entry for "sucrose" for a description of how the
"high fructose" syrup is made.
Fructose is also called levulose because that form rotates
light in a left handed direction.
sucrose / table sugar / cane sugar :
Sucrose is a disaccharide composed of one molecule
of glucose and one of fructose. More precisely, it is dextrose
plus dextrorotary fructose. It must be broken apart before
the yeasts can use it. When heated in an acidic solution
(such as wort) the sugar is inverted to make D-(+)-glucose
and D-(-)-fructose. Yeasts will invert the sucrose if it is not
already in that form before using by using invertase.
It is derived from sugar beets or sugar cane that are crushed
and dissolved in water. The raw syrup is boiled down to
concentrate it to a point where some fraction crystallizes.
The remaining heavy syrup (see "molasses") is separated
from the 95+% pure sugar. The crystals are further processed
several times to increase its purity yielding, eventually, the
pure white crystals we commonly use. Some other commonly
used sugars are also produced during the processing.
A complaint in the early days of modern homebrewing was
that using table sugar in beer-making resulted in a
"cidery" beer. The symptoms were that a beer made with
table sugar that was added to the boil produced a cidery
flavor that faded after several weeks in the bottle. Therefore
the rule of thumb became 'avoid all table sugar'. While this
is still a good idea when using malt extract, this old-(ale)wives
tale is misleading. That defect most likely came from poor
yeast due to a too low pitch, insufficient free-available-nitrogen,
or a lack of other necessary yeast building materials in the wort.
Table sugar can be used in small amounts with no harm
and it is certainly cheaper to use for priming.
This simple colorless sugar will lighten the body of a
beer since it can be completely fermented. It also lightens
the beer color (hmm, negative lovibond rating? :-)
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 11:51:37 pst
From: wyatt at Latitude.COM
Subject: RIMS systems etc.
Hello All,
I have been thinking about either building or buying a RIMS system.
I have tried to access the Stanford archives through ftpmail but
haven't been able to retrieve the files as of yet. I know about and
have gotten information from Sabco about their BrewMagic system but
the info they send is lacking in any type of technical spec's. Are
there other ready made systems out there? If so, what do they cost
and does anyone have their address, phone number or E-Mail address?
I have been reading the postings about the Pico System but it doesn't
quite sound like a RIMS system although it sounds like it might be
easily converted, I would like their address if anyone has it. I
might build one (a RIMS system) but time is in short supply these days
and would rather buy one if the quality and price are right. I would
like to hear from anyone who has used or has any information relevant
to this subject.
On the subject of newbies and extract brewers, I think that some
may be a little too sensitive. I really haven't seen much bashing of
them on the HBD. If you think the little jokes about "Is my beer
ruined" is bashing new brewers then you are too sensitive. It's just
that some subjects have been gone over numerous times and, people
being people, some get a little cranky that their favorite subjects
don't get as much bandwidth as they'd like. There are exceptions of
course. One word of caution that I would like to stress to new brewers
- DON'T ACCEPT SOME OF THE "INFORMATION" THAT IS POSTED HERE AS
GOSPEL. I am amazed at times at the amount of misinformation that is
posted as absolute "fact". Use the information but research it first.
You might be glad you did. I'm not putting down the HBD just take it
for what it is - a discussion about the topic of brewing, NOT a
textbook. Of course if someone like Jim Busch or George Fix is the
source of information then the credibility quotient goes up
accordingly.
One thing I don't understand about the HBD is some of the tangents
that the postings take. Take for example the mercury thread now going
on. Someone was concerned about their brewpot because they broke a
thermometer (there is even some controversy whether this was a hoax or
not). Now it seems that the discussion has turned ito a medical
discussion about the toxicity of mercury. What does this have to do
with brewing? I would think a warning about the use of mercury
thermometers would be enough. Hopefully everyone knows that putting
mercury in the brewpot is not a good idea. Multiple postings on
subjects are inevitable but can't we keep it to brewing. Sometimes
the relationship to brewing gets stretched a little too far.
One last thing, did anyone find a source for sweet gale seeds? I
know someone made a posting a while back but I never found out whether
a sourc was located or not.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 18:03:32 EDT
From: ppatino <PPATINO at UGA.CC.UGA.EDU>
Subject: No More! Piper + Extract
Is there any one else out there who is as sick of hearing about the perils or
lack thereof of mercury as I am? I was under the impression, apparently incor-
rect,that the topic of this board was BREWING, not prattling on ad nauseum
about mercury! By god, enough is enough here, people!
Re - Sam Piper: Bravo! I tend to agree that the current system of beer com-
petitions is seriously flawed. I'm not entirely certain if I agree with your
statement about beers being penalized if and to the degree that they fail to
clone the archetype of a style. Recently, a brewing colleague of mine (an
award winning brewer, I might add) advised that if I wanted to win in a comp-
etition, I should brew a caracature of what ever style I was entering. It
seems to me that the current philosophy in beer judging is "bigger is better."
An over-emphasis on rigorously defined styles in competition seems destined to
stifle home brewing; at the very least, it is going to create a rather peculiar
sub-culture, reminicent of dog people and the American Kennel Club, who go
around lauding artificially inbred animals for measuring up to completely
arbitrary standards. (Probable flame zone)
Re - Extract Brewers: All hail the mighty CAN OF MALT!! I am an extract
brewer, and I am proud of it! I have tasted many excellent all-grain home
brews. That said, I have also tasted many excellent extract based home brews.
I can say without reservation, that the all-grain brews were no better than the
extract based brews. I can brew good beer in about 2 hrs., start to clean-up.
I don't think I'll be getting rid of my can-opener any time soon. Remember, we
represent (conservatively) 80% of the hobby! Dis us at your own peril!
"This space intentionally left without catchy quote."
Paul Patino
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 21:53:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lance Skidmore <lskidmor at linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us>
Subject: Rust cleaner/"green apple quick step"
Regarding the recent thread concerning cleaning up rusty stainless,
citric acid works miracles on rust. It's safe to use (compared to other
acids), can go down the drain without harming the environment and is less
labor intensive than scrubbing with a brush. BTW, it's good for cleaning
out your car's radiator as well. I work at a shipyard and they use it for
cleaning out nasty bilges.
A co-worker of mine recently popped open some bottles of his first-ever
attempt at homebrewing with several of his friends. He said it tasted OK
and had no strange odors, but within 20 minutes, three out of four of
them had what we here in Washington call the "green apple quick step" and
the bathroom was quite busy for the remainder of the evening. He
described his process for making this extract brew and it sounds like his
sanitation was careful, so I'm at a loss to explain what went wrong. He
offered me a sample to critique, but judging from his experience, I
politely declined. Has anyone else had a similar experience?
Private E-mail is fine.
Thanks! Lance
lskidmor at linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 21:52:25 PDT
From: Martin Lodahl <malodah at kriek.scrm2700.PacBell.COM>
Subject: Styles, Redux
I'm sorry if I end up posting two messages; after sending my first
message on this subject I realized it didn't accurately reflect my
position. I intended to cancel the message when I got the autobot
reply, but that never arrived. Here's Issue 2, similar, but different
in important ways:
==
I'd like to offer an opinion on the question of the validity of brewing
to style. As I'm Styles Editor of Brewing Techniques magazine, a long-
time judge and contest organizer, and a recent addition to the BJCC,
you can guess what that opinion is.
This question seems to come up now and then. Why is it an issue? If
you can't personally relate to brewing within an agreed-upon set of
intentions and standards, then don't do it! What could be simpler?
What is it to you, if others have decided that they can speed their
growth as brewers by using the feedback they get from contests?
Personally, I think they're on the right track.
Yes, contests impose an artificial set of standards, and in fact the
concept of styles is an after-the-fact means of classifying beers as
we find them. Without styles, though, judging becomes meaningless;
all you can say about a beer is either, "May I have some more?", or
"Take this sheepdip away!" What's being judged in a contest is what
the brewer's intentions were, and how close they came to realizing
those intentions. The motto of the builders of the Gothic cathedrals
was "Ars sine Sciencia nihil est;" they understood that intentions
aren't worth much if you can't carry them out. Technical competence
is not enough, though, to make a beer a winner, unless the other beers
in the flight are a pretty sorry lot (which happens). To be creative
within narrow limits is a difficult art to practice. It asks a lot of
a brewer, but pays amazing dividends to those who master it, especially
if they plan to turn pro. I personally would never consider investing
my own money and effort in a commercial brewery if I didn't feel I
could very precisely "visualize" a beer, and then produce exactly what
I'd visualized, repeatedly. To do otherwise is to rely pretty heavily
on luck.
I know this sounds like a condemnation of those who choose to ignore
styles, but that's not my intention. I've been handed many tasty and
interesting beers by brewers uninterested in styles and standards.
But the only truly great beers I've had, beers of remarkable depth and
truth, came from people who actively sought the evaluation of their
work by others. That's why I feel that the whole styles & judging
approach is valid. In my neighborhood, chicken farmers never cull
their own flocks, but ask a neighbor to do it for them, so their
feelings won't get in the way of their judgement. So it is with our
brewing. We can blind ourselves to things that keep us from growing
as brewers. If you feel you're not doing that, and you already brew
exactly the beer you want to brew, then fine, don't change a thing.
That too is a valid approach.
To a degree, I think that the question of styles is related to why we
brew, and I think we can agree that there are a lot of different
"right" reasons for that. Before this turns into an essay, let me
just toss out this thought: Some feel more comfortable brewing
all-grain; others would prefer to use extracts and not be nagged about
it. Some like Papazian's books; others prefer Miller's. Some brew to
styles; some don't. Big deal.
- Martin
= Martin Lodahl Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning Pacific*Bell =
= malodah at pacbell.com Sacramento, CA USA 916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! (Unk.) =
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 01:54:16 -0400
From: JimmyNick at aol.com
Subject: mercury
I agree that this thread should've been put to bed long, long, long ago. It
arose, as I recall, from a simple question: If one breaks a mercury
thermometer in one's mash/wort/whatever, should one toss the brew? Answer:
Yes. Plain and simple. Dental amalgams etc. aside, it is beyond dispute that
mercury is bad, bad, bad. Let the psuedo-scientists debate 'til the cows come
home about tooth fillings etc. But I challenge -- no, I dare -- anyone to
dispute that such a concentration level as a broken thermometer isn't bad. If
you have any sense and social conscience, you'll treat the broken mercury
thermometer as hazardous waste. Beyond that, this thread is ludicrous.
To those who wish to postulate about scientific theories about dental
amalgams etc., I encourage you to take your posts to a dental board. But in
closing, I submit this: Those of you who so pretentiously quote scientific
studies on dental amalgams as an absolution of the irrefutable medical
hazards of mercury --- and I refer specifically to Gary -- should look at
the "scientific" studies of PBCs, DDT and dioxin from two decades ago when
proclaiming the "studies" you quote as absolute truth. Better yet, look at
the "scientific" studies of dioxin from five years ago, which claimed it was
an overblown risk, and which have been overwhelmingly refuted in the last
eight months.
Mercury is bad. Whether it's bad in your fillings is immaterial. It's bad
when you break your thermomether. Those who disagree are either blind to
science (including Gary the All-Knowing) or are victims of too many toxins
themselves.
Now, let's get on with brewing topics, shall we?
Return to table of contents
Date: 27 May 95 03:16:06 EDT
From: "Robert W. Mech" <76271.3507 at compuserve.com>
Subject: Ginger Ale
I remember in a few HBD articles that somone had a recipie for "Ginger Ale"
which was a non-alcohol recipie. What im looking for is some history into
Ginger Ale, which I presume was originaly alcoholic. Id like a true Ginger Ale
recipie if one exists, one which I imagine is a Ale, with ginger in it.
Im also looking for the same information to Root Beer which If im not mistaken,
there is a alcoholic recipie available.
Any information on either topics would be great.
TIA.
Robert
Return to table of contents
Date: 27 May 95 03:11:43 EDT
From: "Robert W. Mech" <76271.3507 at compuserve.com>
Subject: Hot Brewing Alternative
Leonard Garfinkel Writes:
>>Now that we are on the subject of mutations, I'd like to hear from anyone who
knows how the professionals select their yeast for certain traits. I mentioned
above that mutations will only show themselves if they give some selective
advantage to the mutated cells. Otherwise, they will grow at the same rate as
the rest of the cells. Now, here in Israel, we have HOT summers. I tried
brewing last summer with wet towels around my bucket fermentor with ok results.
But it's a hassle. I am currently brewing a batch with Cooper's yeast (thanks
to Andy Walsh in Australia for the suggestion and the yeast-thanks, Andy!). We
had a couple days this week where the temp was 30C in the house. The
fermentation went just fine. I would like to keep passing the yeast from batch
to batch and hopefully select a strain which is even happier at higher
temperatures than the Coopers. Yeast which had mutated would be more prevalent
since they are better able to grow at higher temps (selective advantage). Any
comments?<<
Did you ever consider underground? If you have a yard, you might just try and
dig a hole and place it in the ground. I currently ferment my beer in a closet
in the lower level of my townhome during the summer months. No matter how hot
it is, this area of the house (which is actualy at ground level) has a cement
slab, which seems to stay cool. I know that when I visited missouri last year
and the "Meremake Caves" it was always cool underground. Now, im not suggesting
you dig a 50' hole to brew beer in, however you might make something 1' or so
deeper than your fermentor, and place a piece of plywood over the top. I would
think this could keep your beer sufficently cool even in some of the hottest
summer days. I'd also pick a spot that gets mostly shade, or "early morning"
sun, which is usualy cooler than the "after noon" sun. I think keeping your
beer cooler would be a better soluition to finding a yeast strain that ferments
hot.
Robert
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 10:45:12 -0400
From: SMKRANZ at aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad News Bungs on Minikeg
I use a mini keg which I purchased new full of a German beer called Tucker's.
The bung is the same as others I've purchased with other, empty mini kegs.
I've seen two kinds of bungs, one called Datagraph and one called Fassfrich.
Not sure right now which is which, but one of them is a real bitch to get
out.
Steve Kranz
smkranz at aol.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 11:03:29 -0400
From: Beersgood at aol.com
Subject: Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #17...
Bill Rucker wrote: "awhile back there was a comment about homebrewers being
too cautious about cleanliness."
I'm pretty new at this and often think that I am being too cautious, by
spraying Lysol before I force cool my Wort, because the lid will be off, and
so forth. I take every possible precaution I can think of even wearing a mask
when I innoculate slants. But then I figure, Hey, I've got $20+ worth of
ingeredients into this, why not be a little careful? Can it hurt to be too
careful when it comes to this? How can a clean steril environement, hurt the
flavor of the beer? The extra time it takes is less than the time spent at a
stop light. I stick with being cautious and enjoying my excellent beer!
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 12:31:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: STEVE GRIMMER <S18312SG at umassd.edu>
Subject: spontaneous siphon bubbles
Dear Brewers,
Last night, I was getting ready to bottle a Pale Ale and was
siphoning from the secondary to the bottling tub (what's the "proper"
term for that?) and noticed something strange. Little bubbles were
forming in the hose. Just one little guy at first, rolling about
against the flow, then two, and more and more. I found I could sort
of chase them down to the tub by changing the curve of the hose, but
sure enough, in a minute or so, there's another one. This game
continued throughout the siphoning. IMBR? :^)
Seriously, though, what were these bubbles? CO2? O2? Air? The
"in" end of the hose was way down in the beer so it wasnt sucking air.
Is this a normal thing that I haven't noticed with the darker beers
I normally brew?
Oh. OG: 1.044, FG: 1.010 for four days running.
TIA
Steve Grimmer
UMass/Dartmouth
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Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 18:12:06 +1000 (EST)
From: David Draper <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Subject: Andy Walsh is Sydney's Champ Homebrewer
Dear Friends, I'd like to publicly congratulate Andy "Mercury Mouth"
Walsh for winning the Eastern Suburbs Brewmakers (ESB) 1995 Autumn Ale
Competition's Hahn Trophy. The ESB competition represents one of the
largest and arguably best collections of homebrewers in Australia. Each
year ESB holds two major comps, ales in the autumn and lagers in the
spring (and a bunch of less formal affairs), and the BOS in each comp
holds the Hahn Trophy for the ensuing six months. This year there were 88
ales entered in 4 main classes: pale ales, dark ales, wheat beers, and
stouts. Andy's splendid pale ale was best PA and best in the competition
overall. He has a wild tale to tell about how this beer was brewed, and I
hope he will favor the HBD with it!
Well done Andy!
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
- --
"Never trust a brewer who has only one chin" ---Aidan Heerdegen
******************************************************************************
David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109
Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper at mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428
....I'm not from here, I just live here....
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 12:10:46 +0200
From: krusekoj at Papin.HRZ.Uni-Marburg.DE (Krusekopf Jens)
Subject: info
help
info
mail
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 12:18:48 -0700
From: equinox at halcyon.com (Michael Collins)
Subject: Re: Extract Brewers
>On Extract Brewers;
>From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
>>>I feel that far too many people look down on extract
>>>brewers -- even many extract brewers appologize for being
>>>extract brewers.
>From: Elde at aol.com
>Amen! The situation here is such that we (local begining
>extract brewers) are considering forming our OWN club. The
>local all grainers are not too keen on us.... Which is sad
>because of the experience not available to us.
I have been reading HBD for six months now. Well, there are a few busy
days when I hit the filter button to archive unread messages, but I find
that I have built up a good 'database' of brewing info that I can search on
for answers. I have done that many times.
I had a fleeting thought that I want to suggest to the group. What if we
split HBD into two: intermediate/extract brewers and all-grainers. General
brewing topics can be sent to either at the discretion of the posting
individual.
Personally, I would continue to subscribe and archive or read both. I
haven't done much all-grain brewing, but hope to someday have the cash to
upgrade equipment, and so the advanced topics help prepare me for that day.
It may assist those with a specific interest to focus their efforts. It
would also help to clarify if the techniques discussed are relevant to
someone's skill level.
And if it doesn't work it can always be switched back.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 12:18:54 -0700
From: equinox at halcyon.com (Michael Collins)
Subject: My confession='Normal' intake
My confession: I love beer, I love to drink beer. However, I do *not* like
to get 'trashed' and have never really boasted about amounts. I imbibe
socially, but also simply love the taste of beer (especially my own
homebrew). I believe I have a good internal mechanism that stops me from
drinking when I have had 'enough,' and slows down my intake when hanging
out with friends. I think of beer as I think a beverage much as others do
soda, 90% of my liquid intake is 1) water, 2) Beer, 3) Coffee (in that
order).
Why am I posting this on HBD? Since starting to homebrew (and especially
since kegging) I have been concerned about intake. Mostly because of the
puritanical attitude of many Americans that frown on alcohol consumption
that makes it seem somehow wrong to drink beer. I don't tell many people
at work about my homebrew hobby, and lost a job once for printing labels on
the work laserwriter (a one time offense when my home computer was down).
I have tried to make the personal choice not to care what others deem moral
and to drink a beer everyday (I mean everyday). When I have a good brew, I
have a second (not too many thirds). On top of this I may spend an evening
or two a week with friends to sample a few brews (maybe two to four pints).
I would say that I average 10-12 (12 oz) brews per week. That is not a
boast, but wonder whether that fits into a range comparable to other
brewers? I would appreciate some feedback on whether this is 'normal'
I want to leave you with a quote from Pat G. Babcock from an earlier HBD:
"Let a good beer be the exclamation point at the end of your day as every
sentence requires proper punctuation."
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 15:00:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: potlatch.esd112.wednet.eduoel harms <jharms at potlatch.esd112.wednet.edu>
Subject: Foamy Beer
Greetings to all! I have been lurking for sometime now and I have
finally come across a problem that my fellow brewers could solve.
The problem: I get half beer and half foam when pouring from my tap.
The beer was force-carbonated; 30 lbs. CO2 at 38 F. and a total of 180
seconds of shaking. The beer was left for 3 days at 38 F. with 30 lbs.
CO2 in the headspace (CO2 disconnected). I poured the beer using the
pressure from the corny and it came out just fine; normal carbonation and
normal head. As the pressure ran down I connected the CO2 with 11 lbs.
of pressure. I poured some beer the next day and I got half beer and
half head. This was the case for my last batch of beer also. Is the
pressure about right? Should I crank the pressure up? My line is about
2-3 ft. long if that makes any difference and my CO2 tank is in the fridge.
Any help would beerly be appreciated.
Joel Harms (jharms at esd112.wednet.edu)
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Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 21:27:49 -0400
From: cstrick at iu.net (Chris Strickland)
Subject: Re: Electric Stoves
I've been using an electric stove for nearly two years now. I burnt out
both elements on my stove (they're what sends the current to the burner).
Cost me about $9 a piece. What I've started doing now is cooking at only
medium high, but with the covers on my two 4 gallon stainless steel pots.
Only problem is I have to watch alot closer because I'm more likely to have
a boil-over. One year I'll get a propane burner, but only when I can find a
cheap used 8 gallon stainless pot. Hopefully for around $50, (yes I know
I'm dreaming). Shoot, the local used cookware stores were selling alumium
pots for $80 - $100.
- --------------
Chris Strickland
cstrick at iu.net
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Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 21:29:08 -0400
From: cstrick at iu.net (Chris Strickland)
Subject: Re: mutating yeast
While we're on the subject. I've gone five generations when I've been too
lazy to buy new yeast. In the bad batches I've had, they all come from the
first starter, not from repitching onto old yeast. When I pitch a new
starter, it takes between 12 and 36 hours to start fermentation. On the
2nd, and follow-on generations it takes less than 4 hours. That's why I
prefer reusing the yeast cake as much as possible.
Here's a thought for cleaning the yeast cake. Pour the sludge into
sterilized mason jars, fill about 1/3, then fill with sterilized water.
Close and let settle. Do this again and use this yeast for re-pitching.
Pros, cons?
Any other thoughts?
- --------------
Chris Strickland
cstrick at iu.net
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Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 20:56:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: potlatch.esd112.wednet.eduoel harms <jharms at potlatch.esd112.wednet.edu>
Subject: RE: Full Sail IPA
I read a posting a few days ago asking about the type of hops Full Sail
uses in their IPA.
Unfortunately I have accidently deleted it (probably having a homebrew).
According to the booklet from the Oregon Brewer's Festival '94, the IPA
is made from Pale and Carastan malts; Challenger and EKG hops.
Sorry if this has already been answered in previous postings.
Joel Harms (jharms at esd112.wednet.edu)
Castle Rock, WA
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Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 01:17:29 -0400
From: Elde at aol.com
Subject: TK White (Wit)
While up at the Thomas Kemper brewery today, I tasted their new White (Wit?)
beer. I was *quite* impressed.
Does anyone have an extract/partial mash recipe for Wit?
Derek
A *proud* extract brewer!
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Date: Sun, 28 May 95 08:33:56 EDT
From: (Art Steinmetz)
Subject: Silicone Hose and Steam Injection
I'm constructing a steam injection mash system (SIMS) along the lines
of the BT article. Making the steam line entirely of copper is
impractical since this is a system I have to break down after brewing
and if my 3-yr old twins get a hold of it (in it's cool state, of
course) it will be kink city. Therefore I'd like to use flexible hose
for most of the line length.
The auto parts store has 1/4"ID "silicone vacuum hose." It's rated to
300 deg. F. at 25 in./Hg. of pressure (vacuum?). Obviously it's not
"food grade" but is it safe? It has a phenolic smell that may be from
a preservative coating. I'm washing it and running a potload of steam
through it to see if the last runnings have any off taste to 'em
(I'll let the steam condense before I taste it :-) ).
Any comments on the suitability of this stuff appreciated. Private
replies will be condensed for the benifit of the digest. TIA.
- -- Art
asteinm at pipeline.com
76044,3204 at compuserve.com
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Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 12:25:37 -0500
From: mcksmith at iadfw.net (McKee Smith)
Subject: Digest Reading
I was talking to a fellow HBD reader the other day and he asked how I read
HBD. He uses his normal mail reader which means he has to scroll through a
lot of pages. I told him I used a Mac program called Digest Browser, which
cuts my screen into two windows. The top window is the subject line (or
date or author) of the messages. You just click on the subject that
interests you and the bottom half of the screen displays the message. It is
great if you do like I do and often read several HBD's at once! It is
available by ftp at any of the Info-Mac mirror sites.
I'm sure there is a windows equivalent but I don't know what it is. If
anyone out there is using such a program, could you post the name and
location for everyone! Thanks.
McKee Smith Email: Mcksmith at iadfw.net
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 04:39:47 EDT
From: " Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054" <debaydr9 at ibmmail.com>
Subject: 5l Minikegs
Dave Sanderson asked about different bungs in 5 liter minikegs.
Yes Dave, you're right, there are two types of bungs used here in Germany.
Frisch bungs are made of soft rubber and are reuseable. The second type are
polypropylene coverd with rubber. These are a bitch to remove. I get them out
with a pair of vise-grips. Tear off the rim and just yank that baby out as best
you can.
Luckily, all of the 5l cans from Germany are made by the same company and can
be used with both types of bung. Frisch sells their bungs at 1 DM each for
small orders. Check your local homebrew shop.
Bob Bloodworth
Cologne
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Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 05:32:44 EDT
From: " Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054" <debaydr9 at ibmmail.com>
Subject: Automatic bottle fillers
I've been using an automatic filler for wine to fill my bottled beer. This
directs the flow of the beer radially along the walls of the bottle. When the
bottle is full, a float cuts off the flow from the siphon tube. The filler is
very fast and convenient, but I'm a bit worried about aerating the beer too
much. I've only been brewing a few months and my beer doesn't last long enough
to make judgements about long term stability problems. I would be interested in
hearing from people who have used such a filling device. Did you or do you have
problems with oxidation and off flavors? Can someone describe the effect of
aeration/oxidation on beer flavor? In what time frame to the off flavors
develop? TIA
Bob Bloodworth
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Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 07:57:42 -0400
From: ac135 at freenet.carleton.ca (Daniel Paris)
Subject: HopSicle
I have just planted Hallertau hops in my backyard for the first time. While
talking to my local beer buddy he told me that instead of drying his hops
he freezes them.
1. Take a typical hop weight you would use for a batch.
2. Put it into a small plastic container
3. Cover it with water
4. Freeze it
5. Take it out of the container
6. Put it into a plastic bag. Remove air.
7. Freeze the bag.
To use, just drop the "HopSicle" into the wort.
What about some comments on this procedure folks ?
Daniel Paris.
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Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 09:35:21 -0400
From: dflagg at agate.net
Subject: Crystal Malts
Andy Kligerman asked:
> Nobody responded to the body of my post re: getting a dark purple
> iodine test when steeping cra pils from Dewolf-Crosyns.
> should crystal malts give positive starch tests when they are not
> mashed.
Crystal Malts are created by heating green malt in a closed kiln.
Closing the kiln keeps the moisture in. Each individual kernal of
malt acts as a mini-mash and converts the starch to sugar. When
the kiln is vented, the barley drys and hardens to a sugar lump
within the hull.
Unfortunately, this is a pretty crude way to do a mash and conversion
is not always 100 pct complete. So, yes, you will get a positive
starch test from crystal if it is not mashed with other grain, but,
in the amounts normally used, the uncoverted starch does not present
a problem.
************************************************************
Doug Flagg | "A Homebrew a day...
dflagg at orono.sdi.agate.net | Keeps the Worries away!"
************************************************************
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 10:15:33 -0400
From: MZemenick at aol.com
Subject: Secondary aging/carbonation
I typically age my brew at 33 degrees F for 3 to 4 weeks after about 10 to
14 days of primary fermentation. After this aging process I artificially
corbonate with CO2. My questions are, 1. is it better to age the beer
carbonated? or if the aging period lasts longer then 3 to 4 weeks should it
be carbonated then? or as I have been doing, age for however long then
carbonate several days before drinking.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 11:39:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Rick Gontarek, Ph.D." <GONTAREK at FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV>
Subject: Rick's Wicked Summer Ale
Hi everyone! A few have asked for a clone of Pete's new Wicked Summer
Ale. This is not a clone, but an attempt to create a quaffable,
refreshing brew for summertime consumption. It is basically a
low-hopped ale with wheat malt and some lemon added for flavor.
IMHO, a fine brewski for enjoying along with some charcoal-grilled
swordfish, grilled red peppers, grilled vidalia onions, and
fresh Summer berries. Ah, but I digress...
Rick's Wicked Summer Ale (Wheat ale flavored w/ lemon)
4 lbs. American 2-row pale malt
3 lbs American 6-row pale malt (had some sitting around)
3 lbs wheat malt
1/2 cup crystal malt (40L)
1 oz cascade pellets (6.3%AAU)
1/2 ounce Tettneng pellets -flavor-(4.5%AAU)
Grated lemon peel from 2 lemons (do *not* use the bitter white pith)
Juice from 2 lemons
Wyeast 1056 500ml starter
Step-mash: Add 2.25 gal of 54degC water to crushed grains and
stabilize to 50-51degC for 30 min. Add 1.25 gallons of 93degC
water to bring temp to 65degC; hold there for 90 min. Mash out,
sparge, etc.
Bring wort to a boil and add Cascade hops. After 30 min, add 1/2 ounce
tettnang hops, lemon peel, and lemon juice. Boil for another 30 min or
so until volume is about 6 gallons. Chill wort, put into fermenter,
let trub settle out for a few hours, transfer clear wort to a sanitized
glass carboy, and pitch yeast.
OG= 1.052 (for a lighter beer, bring volume to six gallons)
When bottling, add 3/4 cup corn sugar and juice and zest from
2 lemons.
This is a nice refreshing brew with a hint of lemon.
Let me know if you brew and enjoy this one!
Rick Gontarek
Owner/brewmaster of the Major Groove Picobrewery
Baltimore, MD
soon to be relocated to Frederick, MD
gontarek at fcrfv1.ncifcrf.gov
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1744, 05/30/95