FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  re: Hot break dumplings! (mitch)
  Brewing with an electric stove (Rick Gontarek, Ph.D.)
  Re: Great British Beer Festival (RobHaiber)
  Lauter Flow ("Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556")
  Souring beer? (Robert_Ser)
  Blow off soup ("Pat Babcock")
  no more bottles And Best of Both Worlds (dsanderson)
  Re: Dry ice chilling (djt2)
  Beers in Texas (HT-MS)" <mkempisty at gic.gi.com>
  Re: dumplings (Jeff Frane)
  copper for kettles (Kyle R Roberson)
  Coffee Stout/LA Pubs (MARC-HM  at  PACRIM * Marc Chaton)
  TOFU in break, CO2 questions (Harralson, Kirk)
  Cold break. (Russell Mast)
  Great British Beer Festival (Bill Hunter)
  Lactic Acid in Celis (Mark Kirby)
  Plug Lupulin Gland Report (Ken Schroeder)
  New Zealand & Australia; Other Forums (ALEX NAGY)
  Brewing 2 batches (Pete Bronder)
  When to Pick Hops? ("Palmer.John")
  vinegar ("Wallinger, W. A.")
  Isinglass/Gelatin? (Jeff Stampes)
  High FG extracts (Dave Draper)
  Barrel conversion (Rolland Everitt)
  Stop the senseless lawn murders! ("Steven W. Smith")
  Looking for Fred Eckhardt. . . (Anita Tsuchiya)
  Alcohol Removal From Beer (Nicholas A. Franke)
  Iodophor Toxicity? (Aaron Walls)



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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 11:47:40 +0100
From: mitch at molbio.su.se
Subject: re: Hot break dumplings!

Jeff Renner wrote about Hot break dumplings in his ginger/coriander/
grains-of-paradise/cardamom wit, and I thought he was going to give us
a recipe for real dumplings.  Perhaps it's just lunchtime (or the memory
of the knudel I had at a Czech pub last night), but the idea of beer
dumplings strongly appeals to me.  Can anyone come back with such a thing?

Mitch in Stockholm



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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 07:44:56 +0100
From: gontarek at fcrfv1.ncifcrf.gov (Rick Gontarek, Ph.D.)
Subject: Brewing with an electric stove

A few weeks ago I asked for info on outdoor cookers.  Thanks to everyone
who responded.  I haven't yet gotten around to purchasing one (we just
moved...you know how it is), but I am dying to brew.  Can I boil 7 gallons
safely on an electric stove in my enamel-on-steel brewpot without any
adverse
effects (ruining the burner, scortching the wort, etc)?  I know that I will
have to be extra careful regarding regulation of mash temp and such, but
I wanted to know if there are any tricks.  TIA,

Rick Gontarek
gontarek at fcrfv1.ncifcrf.gov
Owner/Brewmaster of the Major Groove Picobrewery
Frederick, MD



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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 05:43:37 -0700
From: RobHaiber at eworld.com
Subject: Re: Great British Beer Festival

In re Dave Oliver's req for info on the Great British Beer Festival:

Dave,
GBBF is in London at Olympia Hall. District Line (Green line) to Earl's Court
then change to the shuttle which runs every c20min. Olympia is just one stop
up this spur line.
No, it no longer changes cities. It's been at Olympia for several years now.
It's in the Kensington area.
It always starts the first Tuesday in Aug and runs through the following
Saturday. There are two sessions per day, except opening Tuesday when there
is only an evening session c4.30pm.
I'll be attending as a judge, and then working the Batemans stand there for
three days beginning on the Wednesday.
Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Rob Haiber, Beer & Brewing Central sysop/admin

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Date: Wed, 05 Jul 1995 07:59:24 -0500 (EST)
From: "Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556" <BRADLEY_DAVID_A at Lilly.com>
Subject: Lauter Flow


OK, so another age-old question/thread about lautering from
	(surprise) an anal retentive brewer (ARB; aren't we all?)...

What is the affect of starting and stopping the flow from the lauter
	tun during the initial recirculation period?

My "technique" has been to stop the slow flow while returning the
	still cloudy sweet wort already collected back the top of 
	the grain bed, and pseudo-clarity seems to take more time
	for me to achieve than for others (all-grain time thread).

Summary to follow from your private Email, responses allowing.  TIA,

db in Indy, IN

From: BRADLEY DAVID A               (MCVAX0::RC65036)

To:   VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE            (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com")
cc:   BRADLEY DAVID A               (MCVAX0::RC65036)

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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 08:58:08 est
From: Robert_Ser at ceo.sts-systems.ca
Subject: Souring beer?

A question for the HBD collective...
 
I have found a very promising Guiness clone recipe that calls for 24 
oz of soured beer. For the souring process, the instructions simply 
say to pour 24 oz of stout (preferably Guiness) into an open 
container, and leave it out for a week or so before pasteurizing 
it... This soured beer is then tossed into the boiling wort at the 
end of the boil. My question relates to the souring of the beer. I 
have no doubt that leave beer on the counter for a week will spoil 
it, but is there a better way to control the 'type' of souring that 
will occur? Are there some bacterial cultures that can be obtained  
to control this process? 
I'd hate to waste a full batch of stout in addition to two great cans
of Guiness!
Thanks in advance...
           
Rob in Montreal
Robert_Ser at ceo.sts-systems.ca




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Date:          Wed, 5 Jul 1995 09:20:05 +0000
From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com>
Subject:       Blow off soup

Greetings, fellow brewers!

In HBD 1771, Dion Hollenbeck asks what we put in our blow-off 
receptacle to ensure sanitary safety of the brew...

I use water.  Plain and simple. 

The water provides a barrier between the atmosphere and the brew; the 
positive pressure in the tube from an actively fermenting brew does 
the rest.  

Draw-back through the tube isn't a concern as it is the 'jam it in 
the hole' large diameter variety (1" OD? Haven't measured it in a 
while) and would take a hellatious thermal contraction to draw 
anything from the blow-off tank back into the fermenter. 

And in my entire brewing career, I've _never_ had an infection 
attributable to my blow-off method; I use the blow off method 
outlined above exclusive of all others.  (Only had one infection, and 
it was due to a leaky keg fitting.)

HIH!

"Drink all you want - I'll brew more!"

Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock    | "Yup, Kit's (Anderson) a brewer...
President, Brew-Master      |  What he isn't is a woman." - Dan Hall
and Chief Taste-Tester      | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point 
Drinkur Purdee pico Brewery |  at the end of your day as every sentence 
pbabcock at oeonline.com       |  requires proper punctuation." -PGB
SYSOP on The HomeBrew University - Motor City Campus BBS (313)397-9758

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Date: Wed, 05 Jul 95 09:34:40 EST
From: dsanderson at msgate.cv.com
Subject: no more bottles And Best of Both Worlds


Larry writes:

>You also mentioned "force carbonating", the pig and the minis cannot be
>forced carbonated. You will have to prime them and deal with the sediment.
>But the Corny kegs can be forced at 30psi and believe me not having to deal
>with the sediment is great. My last batch took 2 1/2 weeks to brew and I
>kegged it directly from the secondary (no priming bucket). I forced
>carbonated the keg and started drinking it the next day, didn't have to 
>wait two weeks like you do with the pig or the minis.
>
>I think having a Corny keg for home and a few minis to take to friends is 
>the best of both worlds.

I've found that the 5 Liter Mini Kegs with a Carbonater and CO2 bottle 
makes the best solution for me.

A Carbonater(no affiliation, about $10) is a special ball lock cap 
that's made to fit on a Pet Soda bottle. As it turns out, the threads 
are an exact match for the Mini Keg Star Tap where the little CO2 
cylinder holder screws on.

With this set up you don't need those $1.25 cartridges at home but can 
use them when you want to transport the Mini Keg and not the CO2 
apparatus. And you can force carbonate the 5L kegs as well as anything 
else using the Pet bottles. 

When I'm not brewing, I'm experimenting with home made sodas with my 
kids. For me,that's the best of both worlds.

Dave


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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 09:53:56 -0400
From: djt2 at po.cwru.edu
Subject: Re: Dry ice chilling

Lee asks about dropping dry ice into his hot wort to chill it;

The result will be huge volumes of gas released causing tons of foam,
resulting in the overflow from hell. I tried this for some other cooking
experiment I can't remember when, and it was a surprising and awful mess.

Others will probably point out that all sorts of microorganisms are likely
to be lurking in the dry ice, in suspended animation, and might survive as
the wort cools. Also, dry ice is not cheap.

I'd stick to your counterflow chiller and not worry about the cold break.

Dennis



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Date: Wed, 05 Jul 1995 10:27:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Kempisty, Mark (HT-MS)" <mkempisty at gic.gi.com>
Subject: Beers in Texas


I will be going to San Antonio and Fort Worth Texas soon and I am hoping 
that the almost infinite wisdom of the Digest can point me toward local 
brewpubs and bars.  Private E-mail is fine.  I will sum it all up and post 
it to the Digest for everybody's use.

Thanks
Mark Kempisty
mkempisty at gic.gi.com

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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 08:08:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Frane <gummitch at teleport.com>
Subject: Re: dumplings

> From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
> Subject: Hot break dumplings!
> 
> I've just had the most incredible hot break I've ever seen or heard of.
> 
> The break started as flakes, then strings, then cottage cheese like
> curds.  By the time I added spices and flavor hops (after one hour), I
> had dumplings!  I fished out one, drained it, and it measured 1-5/8" x
> 2" x 1/2" and weighed 15 grams!  It looks like soft tofu.
> 

I wouldn't have described them as "dumplings", but I did get great huge
grey chunks of what looked kind of like latex a number of years ago with
a wheat beer.  I had done a step-infusion rather than a decoction mash,
and attributed the stuff to this.  I figured they didn't really belong
in the beer, so skimmed them off and chucked them out.  They *felt* like
latex, too, very rubbery.  No problems whatsoever with either clarity or
head retention (great head!).

- --Jeff Frane





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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 09:02:29 -0700
From: roberson at beta.tricity.wsu.edu (Kyle R Roberson)
Subject: copper for kettles

I would like to poll the readership on what kind of
copper to use in kettles and how thick it should be.
Specifically, I'm interested in a 2000 to 4000 liter
system. DeClerk mentions that the bottom of a fire-
heated kettle should be 6-12 mm thick, but he is
specific on other types or areas. Quick stress 
calcs give me a thickness of 0.5 mm (including
a safety factor of 2!). I was thinking about 3 mm
should be right. Anybody know some thickness of
real kettles made of copper?

Question two is what kind of copper? I was thinking
of using oxygen-free copper. Anybody know what is used
for kettles built today? How about in years gone by?
P. Celis made a mysterious remark about his kettles that
he imported for his Austin brewery: I think he said that
new kettles are made out of a different copper that wasn't
as good, or something along those lines.

Hope this reads ok. I'm getting alot of line noise since
the phone guy came out and worked over our lines.

TIA,
Kyle

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Date: Wed, 05 Jul 1995 12:06:29
From: "MARC-HM  at  PACRIM * Marc Chaton" <MARC at PACRIM.USA.COM> (MARC-HM  at  PACRIM * Marc Chaton)
Subject: Coffee Stout/LA Pubs

I am formulating a recipe (extract) for a Coffee Stout. Anybody had any 
sucesses (or failures) in this venture? Charlie Papazian suggests 1/2# of 
fresh ground beans for a 5gal batch. Should I steep it at the end of the 
boil or add it to the secondary for cold infusion? What about infection 
from the beans if I add it to the secondary?

Just thinking I haven't even thought about what beans to use: Ethiopian, 
Java, Jamaican Blue Mtn. AHHHHHHH the joys of homebrewing!!! Looking 
forward to the wonderful combination of beer and coffee, my two favorite 
vices...or is that treats??

By the way...I'm head to Los Angeles this weekend. Any sugesstions for a 
good brew pub down there?? Thought I'd throw this out there so I could be 
passing through the eye of the needle with one of the current threads!!

Thanks gang! Look forward to hearing from some of you (private or public) 
and posting again soon, this being my first posting (had to throw the 
virginity issue in there).

*******************
Marc Chaton
Arcata, CA
marc at pacrim.usa.com
*******************



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Date: Wed, 05 Jul 95 12:20:48 EST
From: kwh at roadnet.ups.com (Harralson, Kirk)
Subject: TOFU in break, CO2 questions

     Jeff Renner writes:
     
     >The break started as flakes, then strings, then cottage cheese like 
     >curds.  By the time I added spices and flavor hops (after one hour), 
     >I had dumplings!  I fished out one, drained it, and it measured 
     >1-5/8" x 2" x 1/2" and weighed 15 grams!  It looks like soft tofu.
     
     >I suppose that this could be wheat gluten, but gluten is supposed to 
     >be water insoluble.  Has anyone ever seen this phenomenon?  I 
     >certainly hope I have protein left for good head retention.
     
     I recently made 10 gallons of a Corona clone (no flames please -- it's 
     just a summer thing) that had 3 lbs of flaked maize.  I had globs of 
     stuff all over my immersion chiller just as you describe.  I also lost 
     at least 1/2 gallon more hot break than normal.  I thought that it was 
     just the Irish Moss kicking in better because I finally remembered to 
     rehydrate it :-)  This batch also was determined to boil over -- it 
     kept frothing up to the top of my pot as the boil started and lasted 
     for several minutes!
     
     I've recently seen posts recommending forced carbonation at 40-60 psi. 
      I am just assembling a draft system, and trying to find as much good 
     information as possible.  My fittings are very simple:  3/16" id vinyl 
     tubing over hose barbs with a standard automotive type hose clamp.  
     The person at the shop I bought these at told me not to exceed 25 psi. 
      Do other people have better fittings, or was he just being too 
     conservative?  Why would you need more pressure for seltzer (the 
     original question) than beer?  Am I making this a lot more difficult 
     than it needs to be?  Also, for the people who keep their CO2 tanks 
     outside the fridge:  How do you run the gas-in line into the fridge?  
     If you go through the side (all my coolant lines are in the back), 
     what kind of fittings do you use?  My CO2 tank is bigger than a keg, 
     and I would rather not take up more room than necessary.
     
     Kirk Harralson
     Bel Air, Maryland

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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 11:31:49 -0500
From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com>
Subject: Cold break.


Lee Allison asks:

> But the counter flow causes a problem with cold break removal. 

>... So how do most of you other counterflow people get rid of the 
> cold break?

I don't use a proper counterflow chiller, but something similar.  (A 
counter-immersion chiller?  It's a big roll of Cu pipe under cold water
in a bathtub or laundry-sink.)  Anyway, I do nothing about cold break at
all, I just keep it.  I have yet to have anyone, myself included, notice
anything off that could be associated with it, and I often ask judges and
friends to taste for it specifically.

Obviously, YMMV.  I will say that I'm convinced that having it form cold
break and leaving it in is better than not having it break out, and leaving
it in solution.  btw, I tend to rack to a secondary after only a week or so.

 -R

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Date:         Wed, 05 Jul 95 10:48:10 CDT
From: Bill Hunter <BHUNTER at UA1VM.UA.EDU>
Subject:      Great British Beer Festival

The info I have is that it's from Aug. 1 to Aug. 5 in London at the Olympia
Hall.  It is easy to reach via the underground...

Bill Hunter (bhunter at ua1vm.ua.edu)

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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 12:31:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Kirby <mkirby at isnet.is.wfu.edu>
Subject: Lactic Acid in Celis

I've perused the HBD archives in search of Celis White clones and found
several. I'm pretty clear on everything except the lactic acid. I don't want
to attempt a controlled lactobacillus "infection" (for want of a better term)
to get the sourness, especially in a summer brew session. Some past posts
have mentioned using USP lactic acid in the secondary but are vague on 
the amounts (I don't know how much "to taste" is). Any HBDers have experience
on this?  Also, are there other sources besides the Frozen Wort that carry
bitter orange? I'm unfamiliar with this ingredient. If I could find what 
else it is used for I thought I might be able to find a local source. If 
anyone has an updated all-grain recipe for this beer, that would be 
appreciated also. TIA!

Kirby

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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 10:04:27 PDT
From: kens at lan.nsc.com (Ken Schroeder)
Subject: Plug Lupulin Gland Report

As promised, I examined the lupullin glands from some plugs I brewed with
on the 4th. I examined Northern Brewer, Tettnager and Hallertauer plugs.
I plucked the cones from the boil as soon as they were freed, perhaps in 
the fist 10 seconds or so of being freed from the plug. From visual
examination, the glands appeared to be intact. The glands appeared yellow
and plump with lots of little hairs. Their condition could be compaired to
what I have seen from a whole cone from my hop vines. Hense, from non-
magnified visual inspection, the glands found in a hop plug are not crushed
in processing. A maginfied inspection may have a different result, but 
I would be surprised. This would tend to support the idea that hop plugs
are a quality product and in the least, equal to all other forms of hop
packaging.

Again, Hoppy Brewin',

Ken Schroeder
Sequoia Brewing 

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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 10:32:18 -0700
From: alexmn at ix.netcom.com (ALEX NAGY)
Subject: New Zealand & Australia; Other Forums

Greetings Fellow Travelers & Beer Imbibers!

In April '96 I will be going to New Zealand and Australia for 5-6 
weeks.  I want to take in the grape harvest season by visiting a 
number of working vineyard/ winery operations.  I would also like 
to visit some of the craft breweries as well.  I have visions of 
doing this sort of thing myself here in the metro-Portland (OR) 
region.  I wouldn't mind pitching in and helping out on-site if 
possible.  I do not expect to receive wages for my labor, I just 
would like to get some real-world experience.  I got to attend the 
German Wine Academy several years ago and really enjoyed that.  I 
won't be traveling alone, I expect that my sister and daughter 
will be with me as they are potential principals in a beer/ wine 
venture.  Has anyone got any suggestions on where I should plan 
on visiting to do these things?  Fax numbers to contact them would 
be super too.  

I would also like to stay at some of the "farm-stay" places.  
Has anyone had any experience with this program?

I am also wondering if anyone knows of a forum similar to HBD 
focused on wine, winery and vineyard operations (and how to find 
it)?  What about making the transition to commercial brewing, 
dealing with the regulators [bureaucrats, not hardware <;-) ], 
etc, etc.  Also any place that talks about amateur yogurt and 
cheese making.  

Private e-mail response would be best and if I get say more than 
a half-dozen requests to do so, I will collate the responses and 
post them.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TIA!
Alex M Nagy
Vancouver WA USA
alexmn at ix.netcom.com

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Date: Wed,  5 Jul 1995 13:51:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pete Bronder <pb0q+ at andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Brewing 2 batches

I'm considering brewing two consecutive batches, different styles but
one right after the other.  I would use the same equipment (stockpot,
thermometer, hydrometer, spoon, etc.) and only rinsing (not sanitizing)
between batches.  Is this a bad idea?

Just looking for a short cut,  Pete

  

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Date: 5 Jul 1995 10:54:52 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: When to Pick Hops?

Hi Group,
My Hops are doing really well this year, especially the Cascade. Quite a few
Cones have appeared in the last couple weeks and I am wondering how soon they
will be ready to pick.  I have read that they are ready when they feel more
papery and resiliant and are starting to brown a bit at the edges. 

But, can anyone give me a rough idea of When/ How Long it takes for the cones
to mature? Two Weeks? A Month? Two Months? I am in Southern California, so I
imagine they could be ready a bit faster than up north, but I am not sure.
Thanks, 
John

John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P 
johnj at primenet.com  Huntington Beach, California
Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/


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Date: 05 Jul 1995 10:52:10 PDT
From: "Wallinger, W. A." <WAWA at chevron.com>
Subject: vinegar


From: Wallinger, W. A. (Wade)
To:  OPEN ADDRESSING SERVI-OPENADDR
Subject:  vinegar
Date: 1995-07-05 12:31
Priority:

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------


could the vinegar be heated or boiled to preclude the presence of nasties?


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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 13:56:27 MDT
From: stampes at neocad.com (Jeff Stampes)
Subject: Isinglass/Gelatin?


Ok, I have never overly concerned myself with making a "clear
beer".  However, I have a pale ale in primary that I brewed for
a very special occasion, and for once I feel that appearance is
important.  The only half-hearted efforts I made in the past
involved using Polyclar, with mixed results.

Isinglass or Gelatin...what are the pros and cons of them both,
and what is the recommended usage of both?  (not to resurrect 
the boil/don't boil your gelatin thread!)  Do they have overlapping
properties, or does each only work on certain haze proteins/yeasts?
What if one was to use them both?

E-mail me please, and I will summarize for other beginner 
clarity-seeking brewers.

- -- Jeff Stampes -- NeoCAD, Inc. -- Boulder, CO -- stampes at neocad.com --
- -- Ultimate Frisbee...It's not just for dogs anymore.                -- 
- -- Any fool can make bread out of grain...God intended it for beer!  --

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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 08:01:32 +1000
From: david.draper at mq.edu.au (Dave Draper)
Subject: High FG extracts

Dear Friends, in #1773 Pierre expanded on his use of Laaglander for high FG
in low OG beers.  This is very sound advice--one can make some very
satisfying ales that are not very alcoholic by doing this.  I recall one
stout I made that had an OG of 1035 but an FG of 1017 or so, and it tasted
for all the world as if the OG were fully 10 to 12 points higher.  For me
it's the solution to the dilemma of "Do I drink too much?" at least in terms
of alcohol consumption.  Now, calories are another matter...

Cheers, Dave in Sydney
*****************************************************************************
David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia
Email: david.draper at mq.edu.au  Fax: +61-2-850-8428  Tel: +61-2-850-8347
                  ...I'm not from here, I just live here...


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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 18:28:30 -0400
From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt)
Subject: Barrel conversion



In response to Bill Watt's question about brass and stainless
steel fittings, please note that you cannot weld brass to stain-
less (or to anything else).  You may be able to braze these metals,
however.  Brazing is a much lower temperature process than weld-
ing; it's sort of very hot soldering (don't use solder - contains
lead).

If you really want SS fittings, try a marine supply store (if
there is one near you).  Most have a good selection of SS fasteners
and plumbing fittings.  For low temperature applications, try less
expensive delrin or nylon.


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Date: Wed, 05 Jul 1995 19:03:06 -0700 (MST)
From: "Steven W. Smith" <SYSSWS at gc.maricopa.edu>
Subject: Stop the senseless lawn murders!

  ((wavery Star Trek decloak))  It's been quite awhile, eh?  I'm back with 
some more quasi-useful-brewing-related stuff, and a recipe plea!  
Today's topic:

   How can I cool my wort, but not scald a huge patch of my lawn?

   (ping!)  The answer:  rather than dump near-boiling water directly onto the 
lawn, spray it into the air in a fashion not unlike a swimming pool aerator. 
The cheapest/easiest "sprayer" I've found is a short length of copper tubing 
that's been partially crimped at the end.

  Hokay, now that I've "contributed" (yeah, snicker..)  I'll shutup for another 
six months if someone, ANYONE, will provide me with an all-grain or extract 
approximation of Spaten Optimator.  Once more, with feeling:

S P A T E N  O P T I M A T O R  C L O N E R S -- Send Me Your Recipe!
TIA, etc. Steve
  _,_/|   
  \o.O;   Steven W. Smith - Systems Programmer, but not a Licensed Therapist
 =(___)=  Glendale Community College, Glendale Az. USA
    U     syssws at gc.maricopa.edu or smith at peabody.gc.maricopa.edu
"You're useless and pathetic. Like a useless and pathetic thing." - Rocko

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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 20:51:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Anita Tsuchiya <atsuchiy at fred.fhcrc.org>
Subject: Looking for Fred Eckhardt. . .

I'm looking for Fred Eckhardt to request a copy of his 
"Sake Connection Newsletter."  The only address I found was from HBD #0930  
which is about 3 years old.  Does anyone have a more recent address where 
I can reach him?  Does he have an e-mail address?  Please respond to me 
directly via e-mail at the address below.  I'm not on the mailing list 
and have accessed the HBD archives through the net.  

Thanks everyone!  AYT  ;)
Anita Y. Tsuchiya <atsuchiy at fred.fhcrc.org>


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Date: Wed,  5 Jul 95 23:06:49 PDT
From: NAFRANK at pop03.ny.us.ibm.net (Nicholas A. Franke)
Subject: Alcohol Removal From Beer

	We have a friend who recently became pregnant, and 
has developed cravings, real or imagined, for beer.  
Obviously for health reasons alcohol is out.
	I am assuming that since fermentation is a 
necessary component of the process, that alcohol-free beer 
is made by removing the alcohol from the beer after 
fermentation.  Can anyone suggest a reliable and practical 
method for a homebrewer to remove the alcohol from beer?
	Further, is there a way for homebrewers to check 
for the presence and/or content of alcohol in beer?  It 
would give me a lot of piece of mind to know that the 
alcohol removal procedure was successful.
	Many thanks for your suggestions....

			Nick Franke
			nafrank at ibm.net


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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 23:33:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Walls <awalls at u.washington.edu>
Subject: Iodophor Toxicity?

	I realize that straight Iodophor is Toxic, but i was wondering if 
a, say 12.5 ppm, solution is toxic?  In other words would it hurt you to 
drink the sanitizing solution?  The reason im asking is that it occured 
to me that Iodine tablets for sanitizing drinking water when hiking are 
much more expensive then Iodophor.  So can you use Iodophor to sanitize 
drinking water?

aaron

Nothing is True, so hand me another brew.

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1774, 07/06/95