HOMEBREW Digest #1782 Sat 15 July 1995

Digest #1781 Digest #1783

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Looking for......... ("Lee C. Bussy")
  7th Annual NM State Fair ProAm Beer Competition (guyruth)
  Re: SCAM??? ; also a question about priming (Mike Davis)
  flaked grains (HOMEBRE973)
  the Age-Old Question ("Timothy P. Laatsch)
  More blueberry (Benjamin Woodliff)
  Re: 1056 and citris flavor ("R. James Ray")
  Beer and religion (Ken Jucks, ph # 617-496-7580)
  Electric Cooker request (WattsBrew)
  RE: Brewing and society (harry)
  Under pressure, etc. (Russell Mast)
  Magic? (Russell Mast)
  Re: flaked barley (Mark Thompson)
  Re: SCAM??? (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Around & about (Joseph.Fleming)
  Got a Gott, did I get da rite one?, Dirty Demi-john (harry)
  Lautering Dynamics/Grapefruit/misc ("Palmer.John")
  RE: Homebrewing & God (kdschida)
  SCAM Results (David Allison 225-5764)
  RE: Scams & Chiller Sanitation ("Richard Scotty")
  Contract Brewing Info. (TJWILLIA)
  Re: Blow-off/chillers/burners (rdevine)
  propane cookers (Dan Sherman)
  Re: 250F w/out pressure? (rdevine)
  Insert Your Blowoff Tube Here (Bob Sutton)
  Finings (ClearBeer)
  Suds (Jeff Stampes)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 07:06:30 +0000 From: "Lee C. Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Looking for......... Howdy All! Yes, I'm still alive... just can't find time to read the HBD much less post. A while back I offered a yeast strain to a gentleman in Utah I belive. I think his name was Mark but I missplaced the hardcopy I had of his name and address. I only recently thought of posting here.... pretty smart huh? :} Right on top of things. Anyway... I'd like to get this culture off to him..... if you are him or know who he is please write me and we can get some closure on this. Thanks! - -- -Lee Bussy | Sometimes there just aren't | leeb at southwind.net| enough rocks. ---F. Gump | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 06:50:28 +0500 From: guyruth at abq-ros.com Subject: 7th Annual NM State Fair ProAm Beer Competition This is to announce the ProAm Beer Competition at the NM State Fair on August 18 & 19, 1995. The deadline for entries is August 11. This competition is open to all amateur and professional brewers in New Mexico ONLY. Any AHA Nat'l beer category can be entered. 2 bottles per entry and $3. For rules and entry forms contact Guy Ruth at guyruth at abq-ros.com or call (505) 294-0302 day/night or write to Dukes of Ale, 11524 Manitoba NE, Albuquerque, NM 87111. Please leave your address if you call. guy Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 09:01:12 EDT From: Mike Davis <mdavis at BayNetworks.com> Subject: Re: SCAM??? ; also a question about priming >>>>> "David" == David Allison 225-5764 <ALLISON.DAVID at a1gw.gene.com> writes: David> Talk about a scam (potentially). David> I received in the mail a notice for a "Win your own David> Brewery" contest, . . . I can't comment about the legitimacy of this particular case, but I read several articles a couple years back about an inn in Vermont or New Hampshire that was "raffled away." The process is quite legal, though I think the owners in this inn case were more upfront about it being a raffle. David> - David David> (allison2 at gene.com) - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Question about priming: The other night I bottled my second batch of beer. (The first came out quite well, btw. Beginner's luck?). Anyway, just after I got the last 12 oz. in a bottle, I noticed that I had forgotten to put the priming sugar in the bottling bucket. I was somewhat anxious about what to do. Either pour everything back into the bucket, prime and re-bottle, or try to pour just the right amount of sugar solution into each bottle. That is, enough sugar without overflowing the liquid level. I decided for the latter, because the former seemed like it would put too much air into the beer from splashing, and that it would be quite a pain to boot. The question: Was this the best solution? Will the extra amount of liquid in the bottle somehow increase the pressure to explosive levels in the bottles? (Especially those that got more than their fair share of sugar solution.) In the unlikely event that I allow this to happen again, what would be the best solution? Oh, another question. This batch was an IPA that was dry-hopped. Therefore I had all these hop leaves in the fermentation vessel, which clogged up the siphon before all the beer was transferred to the bottling bucket. Anybody have any good ideas on keeping this extraneous matter out of the siphon? Thanks for your help - --mad <Insert first time poster disclaimers here.> Mike Davis == mdavis at pobox.wellfleet.com == +1 508 436 8016 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:21:00 -0400 From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: flaked grains A thread has recently been started about using flaked barley in beers. Al K. said, and I paraphrase, that it should be ground in a roller mill. I can't see any need for this, but this got me thinking anyway, which can be dangerous. What is the purpose of using flaked, and I presume unmalted barley, in a beer? Is it to add fermentables (why not use malted barley?) or is it to add some specific types of dextrins or flavors or proteins that would be lost upon malting? I hope, but won't pray, someone will open this for discussion on the net! Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:33:26 -0400 (EDT) From: "Timothy P. Laatsch <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu>" <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu> Subject: the Age-Old Question Hello HBDers (VHC), I have a variation of the age-old question, "When do I stop sparging?". After 12 successful all-grain beers, I'm tempted to go with what I've been doing. However, I'm also convinced that the only minor flaw in my all-grain brews, slight roughness in the malt/grain, is attributable to oversparging. I know about the standard indicators for stopping the sparge: 1. When the pH starts increasing rapidly and rises above 6.0 2. When the gravity of the runoff falls below 1.008 Because I can't afford a pH meter and I've found the papers to be unreliable, my technique is to stop when I've reached an adequate volume. My question is about taking a gravity reading of the runoff. Obviously, you can't take the time to chill the sample prior to the reading or you have defeated the purpose of taking the measurement in the first place. If the gravity is read while the solution is hot, do the standard temperature correction formulas remain linear near 180 F? Or does the gravity cutoff value refer to the uncorrected hot reading? Elementary questions, I am sure. - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- On another note, I recently purchased Terry Foster's style-series book on Pale Ale. I was quite disappointed that the American Pale Ale category was essentially ignored in this fine treatise on British Pales. Thank goodness for Norm Pyle's most recent article in Brewing Techniques regarding emulating and outbrewing your favorite micro, in which he outlines the classic American Pale style quite well. Because I am limited (financially/conveniently) to using American 2-row pale in my brews, I find myself using more crystal malt than recommended by Foster to bump the malty character up a bit, usually around a pound per 5-gallon batch (from various countries of origin and of various lovibond ratings). My basic recipe is as follows: Grain: 9.0 lbs US 2-row pale malt (Briess) 1.0 lbs crystal malt (combo of British 50L, US 40L, Special B) 0.5 lbs US dextrin malt Mash: 1.5 qts per pound total water 90 min at 152 F Hops: 27-32 IBU from Goldings 0.5 oz Cascade or Goldings (flavor) 0.5-1.0 oz Cascade or Goldings (aroma) 0.5-1.0 oz Cascade or Goldings (dry-hop) 1 tsp rehydrated IM Boil: 90 min Ferment: Wyeast Irish 1084 repitched (I know, I know....but I like it) 1 week primary 2-week secondary, one of which is for dry-hopping gelatin finings 2 days before kegging Is this appropriate for the nebulous American Pale style? Would DWC aromatic malt solve this problem with lack of malt character when brewing with a base of US 2-row? I don't seem to have any difficulty achieving adequate hop character. ;-) But I believe the hops and malt are slightly out of balance and I'm getting quite a fair amount of residual sweetness from the copious quantities of crystal malt. One other point of contention: Foster recommends only 1.0 qts of mash water per pound of grain, instead of the usual 1.5----any comments/experiences? Thanks for any and all help. Bones *=============================================================================* | Timothy P. Laatsch | email: laatsch at kbs.msu.edu | Aspiring | | Graduate Student-Microbiology | biz phone: 616-671-2329 | All-Grain | | Michigan State University/KBS | fax: 616-671-2104 | Homebrewer | | Kalamazoo, MI (Home of Bell's) | obsession: American Pale Ale | & Scientist | *=============================================================================* Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 08:17:05 -0500 From: bjw at nova.cray.com (Benjamin Woodliff) Subject: More blueberry > Finally, Blueberry Brew -- I want to make some, have access to a patch of > free blueberries, but have no recipes. I see so many raspberry recipes, > but not blueberry. Let me know what you know. Thanks. If a few extra blueberries are the problem, I'd recommend that you should also give a melomel a try. I've attached a recipe I followed about 18 months ago to great satisfaction. It was orignially submitted to the HBD by Guy McConnell: Jamaica Blue Mead (5 gallons) 6 lb. Cover Honey 1 lb. Orange Blossom Honey 1.5 lb. Corn Sugar 2 oz. Fresh, minced Ginger Root 3 tsp. Ground Cinnamon 3 tsp. Yeast Extract 1 gal. Fresh Blueberries 2 ea. Lemons, halved WYeast #1214 Belgian Ale Yeast 0.5 cup Orange Blossom Honey (bottling) Put honey, corn sugar, and yeast extract in brewpot with water. Simmer for 10 minutes, skimming foam with kitchen strainer. Add ginger root and simmer for 10 more minutes without skimming. Remove from heat, squeeze in lemons, and throw into brewpot. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes. Strain out lemon halves and ginger, add blueberries, chill, pour mixture (blueberries and all) into primary fermenter, and pitch yeast. After 7 days, rack off of fruit into secondary and age for 1 - 2 months. When fermentation is complete, prepare a "tea" by simmering cinnamon and honey in water for 15 minutes in a covered pot. Cool, add to bottling bucket, and quietly siphon in must. Bottle and age for a couple of months or so. Most meads/melomels improve greatly with age.... this recipe yields a nice drink with a good blueberry aroma yet if I were to do brew it again, I increase the blueberry amount again by half as much. Ben Woodliff Chippewa Falls, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:02:29 EDT From: uscgc2r3 at ibmmail.com Subject: Old dried malt extract and "the sparge from hell" ? my apologies if this appeared in everyone elses HBD but mine. I thought that I had received a confirmation etc. but can't find any record of it im my computer file oand never saw it appear in the digest...so here it is again. Since I read about the sparge from hell, I've been thinking about my experience with some old DME. Maybe they're related (I'm pretty sure that some dried malt extract was involved in that post). After several dissapointing batches, I packed up my supplies and put them in my attic (Old house, Black roof, North Carolina, very hot). Four years later, I am motivated to begin again and I find that my three-pound bags of DME have solidified. I break off a piece and it tastes OK, but like a cold "Sugar Daddy" candy bar - so hard and sticky that I was worried that chewing it would pull my fillings loose. I broke up six pounds with a hammer into 3-4" chunks and dropped them into my 10 gallon boiler. When I reached in with the stir-stick they was a six pound mass that took constant stirring while boiling for the better part of two hours to keep from scorching and get fully dissolved. The connection to the sparge from hell may be this... I didn't inspect the bags once a week for four years, but there must have been a point at which the powder was still powder, but nearly ready to agglomerate. At this point, maybe hitting the water was enough to glue the particles together in a mass, rather than aid in neat dissolution/dispertion. In my case, it was worth the effort, as I still got a really good batch of beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 07:03:28 -0700 (PDT) From: "R. James Ray" <ray902 at uidaho.edu> Subject: Re: 1056 and citris flavor In reference to previous post on this citris thread I have found that under some conditions 1056 which has always been very clean for me can sometimes produce very fruity flavors. One local brewer swears that 1056 is the fruitiest flavored yeast he has ever used. I think the fruitiness is caused by under aereation and is the result of ester formation. James Ray Treaty Gounds Brewpub Moscow, Idaho Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 10:04:10 -0400 From: jucks at cfaft4.harvard.edu (Ken Jucks, ph # 617-496-7580) Subject: Beer and religion If Belgian monks find brewing beer to be a good religious exercise, then, by Gott, so do I!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ken Jucks Do Methodists use the best brewing methods??? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 10:14:06 -0400 From: WattsBrew at aol.com Subject: Electric Cooker request Can anyone help out with a name for a portable electric hotplate capable of boiling 3 gallons at once. The kitchen stove is taking a beating and I want to put one burner in the basement. TIA. Private or public replies are acceptable. Bill Watt - Wattsbrew at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 10:32:52 -0400 From: hbush at pppl.gov (harry) Subject: RE: Brewing and society Kenn Goodrow writes: >An idea that just occured to me that might lend to the positive image of >homebrewing and to the general acceptance of homebrewing as common is the >founding of homebrew clubs on campuses. No offense intended, but I don't see the overwhelming need to expend energy in order to promote a positive image of homebrewing. I am a homebrewer because I enjoy it, as I assume most of us are. I don't give a rat's ass what anybody else in my community thinks of homebrewing or of me because I am a homebrewer. A person who finds anything immoral or offensive about someone who brews their own beer doesn't deserve the time of day from me, and I wont waste a minute in trying to rationalize my hobby to them. Going out of your way to try to drum up interest in homebrewing on college campuses probably wouldn't help our reputation, because people who have an objection to homebrewing most likely still consider college campuses as a breeding ground for communism, atheism, drug abuse, lascivious behavior and "just the sort of place" you'd expect an outbreak of the homebrewing disease. I don't know, but maybe we are just seeing the difference in attitude between the conservative South where Kenn is from and the "liberal?" Northeast (New York/ New Jersey) where I'm from. When a new Brewpub opens up here, it's so popular that you can't get into it for six months. I guess that's why I can only say "DAMN THE NEIGHBORS, BREW ON!" Harry ................................................................. ...but a good cigar- is a smoke! .................................................................. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:42:33 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Under pressure, etc. > From: Dan Sherman <dsherman at sdcc3.ucsd.edu> > Subject: 250F w/out pressure? Bob : produced the best extraction rate. Pressure didn't really matter. > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > Bob, is that a typo? Since the boiling temp. of water at sea level > (1 atm. pressure) is 212 F, to get a 250 F water bath, it must be > under some amount of pressure. Water's always under _some_ amount of pressure. If they had a 250F water bath that didn't boil, they had to increase pressure or use a solution. But, there's a broad range of pressures at which you can have a 250F pure water bath. If you get the same pressure at each, pressure's not the issue. (Especially if extraction is constant with pressure at other temps, too.) > From: grandcru at ix.netcom.com (Lee Allison) > Subject: Norm's Chillers!! > 2) Bath - an immersion chiller where the coil is sitting in a tub > of ice with the wort running through it. Bath. I like that. Especially since I used to do it in the tub all the time. Oh, for what it's worth, if you have a high enough volume of coolant, you don't have to use ice. This revelation came as a great relief to me, after spending 3 or 4 batches ankle-deep in ice water, one time I was out of ice and just use water from the 'cold' tap. I don't know the exact volume, and I drained and refilled the tub once when it started getting warmer, but the stuff coming out was right around the same temp it had been with ice. > From: Kenneth K Goodrow <goodrow at orion.etsu.edu> > An idea that just occured to me that might lend to the positive image of > homebrewing and to the general acceptance of homebrewing as common is the > founding of homebrew clubs on campuses. I know there was one at the University of Chicago a year or two after I graduated, but I think it floundered. One problem is that a large proportion, often a majority, of the population of any college is under age, and this introuces problems with legality and many University's policies. > From: robtrish at noif.ncp.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston) > Do you think VHC is a good acronym for HBD subscribers? I prefer "The Collective" or "The Hive", or just plain "Yo!" > I use a counterflow chiller based on the theoretical idea that it is the > speed with which one cools the wort (every incremental little bit) which is Which is more impoRtant, the speed with which each individual teaspoon falls from 150+ to 60-, or the speed at which the whole thing does? (I'm betting on each teaspoon. Still, hop utilization in the holding bucket can be an issue.) > I hope we all recognize the humour > and don't try to sanitize before we clean. Someone please tell me if there > is anyway to sanitize something that's dirty without autoclaving it. First you clean the big chunks off. Then you sanitize. Then you clean the sanitizer off. Some sanitizers (Iodophor?) clean themselves off. -R Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:43:14 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Magic? > From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at avery.med.virginia.edu> > Subject: just curious > > In HBD1779 how was it possible for Russell Mast to respond to > Pete Bronder's article which was also in HBD1779 ? The same way you can respond to this article in the same issue in which it appears. -R Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 7:57:07 PDT From: Mark Thompson <markt at hpdocp3.cup.hp.com> Subject: Re: flaked barley Algis R Korzonas wrote: > If you have a roller mill, I would set it very > tight for the flaked barley. Regular crushing (i.e. regular spacing or > rolling pin crushing) won't do much to flaked grains -- they are already > kind of "smashed flat." I was under the impression that flaked adjuncts were ready to mash because the flaking process kind of gelitanized the starch. Also with barley that normal mashing tempetures would gelitanize any starch that wasn't already. So i figured that the flaking process was more than enough to be able to get at the goodies inside and milling further was not necessary. My real question is if flaked barley is a good replacement for pearl barley. I would like to make a Munich Light which could have some raw barley in it (if the law permitted in germany) or Chit Malt. Some recipies call for Pearl, and soaking and processing, i would perfer to use flaked. Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 07:59:24 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: SCAM??? >>>>> "David" == David Allison 225-5764 <ALLISON.DAVID at a1gw.gene.com> writes: David> Talk about a scam (potentially). I received in the mail a David> notice for a "Win your own Brewery" contest, whereby you write David> (in 250 words or less) an essay on why you would like to own David> and operate your Brewery (BrewPub). All this for a measily David> $100 "entry fee". BTW, this is for the Riverwalk Brewery and David> Grill in Downtown Fort Lauderdale, Florida. This is most likely a completely legitimate offer on a business which the owners have tried unsuccessfully to *SELL*. People do this with houses quite often, even saw a castle in Europe sold this way. If they get enough money to "buy" the business due to entry fees, then they will go through with the contest. If not enough entries give them too little money, they will just return your money and say "Thanks, we cancelled the contest." It can all be legitimate. However, the poor sucker who actually *wins* the contest now owns a business which could not be sold, hence the contest. He must pay taxes on his "windfall" which on a business can be substantial, and now he is an employer, a business taxpayer and all the headaches that go along with it. I doubt that the Riverwalk Brewery would be offered in a contest if the owners had not been able to sell it for a long time. Winning is not necessarily a good thing. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 10:48:06 est From: Joseph.Fleming at gsa.gov Subject: Around & about Robert Brown: |sanitize a bubbler and my 1 gal blowoff bucket with *2* holes in the top. | I call it a pseudo-burton union system. Everything is |sterile(sanitized) and no water/sanitizer means you can't suck them back. | In addition I can do (as appropriate) a few things with the sterile |undiluted blowoff. Robert, you don't get blowoff in your bubbler (an airlock I assume) with this method? Additionally, do you put liquid in the airlock? If so, then you can see why others put liquid in their blowoff receptacles. If you don't, then use of the airlock is superfluous. People are pointing out that air gets pushed *out* of the airlock or tubes. This is true, but only when there is active fermentation; what happens before fermentation begins? And when it subsides? If your surroundings are clean and you have a good pitch rate then your method should be fine; it has the added bonus of trub removal and yeast harvesting. Its called open fermentation. Kenneth K Goodrow for BMOC (Brewing Men On Campus): Let's not forget that the drinking age in most states prohibits undergrad students from partaking until their senior year. In addition most dorm rules prohibit the manufacture of alcohol, drugs, explosives, ect. I don't see a college endorsing a club that would be illegal for 3/4 of its population and for some would allude to the politically incorrect issue of underage drinking. I hope your .edu is more accepting. Chiller terminology: The last HBD has three references to classifying and labeling chillers. Are we an anal retentive bunch or what?! Question: Is drilling a hole in a thin SS pot a do-it-yourself project? Can anyone supply details for the mentally challenged? Would drilling an enamel-coated pot be inviting rust? TIA for the DIY FYI. Joe - joseph.fleming at gsa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 11:07:24 -0400 From: hbush at pppl.gov (harry) Subject: Got a Gott, did I get da rite one?, Dirty Demi-john 1) Just mail ordered the famous 10 gal. Gott (now part of Rubbermaid) cooler and I have a question. I was under the impression from the discussions on the HBD, etc., that the Gott cooler was rated for hot as well as cold beverages, but there is nothing to indicate this on the box that it came in (the only literature is what's printed on the box). Did I buy the WRONG Gott cooler?- I think the model # is 1610. Is my beer ruined? 2) I have a 15? gal. glass Demi-John that will not come clean. It has milky-white (mineral?) stains on (or in, I can't tell) it. I haven't tried anything nasty like Muriatic acid or strong lye yet. Are they worth a try? Any suggestions?. Should I sanitize the Demi-John it and use it anyway? Is my beer ruined again?? Harry ................................................................. ...but a good cigar- is a smoke! .................................................................. Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Jul 1995 08:48:59 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Lautering Dynamics/Grapefruit/misc Hi Group, I have an article appearing in the next issue of Brewing Techniques that discusses the Fluid Dynamics of Lautering. I will leave out most of the numbers here and try to summarize the main points. There are 3 main types used by homebrewers: False Bottom, Tubing Manifold, and a Rolled Screen Manifold. 1. All 3 types of lautering devices will give very good yields, its just a matter of how long it will take to collect all the wort. 2. The propensity for a particular type of lautering device to cause preferential flow thru the grainbed (aka. Channeling) is dependent on the number, opening area and distribution of the collection device. 3. The less distributed the openings of the collection device, the greater the propensity for "Coning" of extraction thru the grainbed to the collection sites. 4. Therefore, the less distributed the openings, the slower the bed needs to lautered to decrease the degree of coning that occurs. 5. The False Bottom gives the most uniformity of collection area under the grainbed. The rolled screen the least. But since both types will deliver the same yield, it becomes a matter of flow rates. To obtain equal inflow thru all sites in a tubing manifold, the outflow resistance must be greater than the total inflow resistance. Outflow resistance usually means a valve with can be used to limit the out flow rate. On a homebrewing scale, with the less than 2 ft of head height for most systems (a pressure of about 1 psi), preferential flow thru the openings nearest the outflow of a tubing manifold will never happen. Depiction of coning effect. Gradients are not as steep as depicted, due to / and \. Rolled Scr. Tubing M. |------------| |------------| | Best | | Best | You get the idea. Both types of manifold |\ extr. /| | extr. | give dead zones off to the sides in the | \ / | | | corners where there is no pressure diff. | \ / | | | to drive the fluid flow. Slowing the flow | \ / | |\ /\ /\ /| rate will decrease the gradients, as will | \ / | | \/ \/ \/ | stirring or "Racking" during the sparge. |_____*______| |__*___*__*__| ***** Re; the Grapefruit taste of an extract ale. I too have experienced this. Just about every extract ale I ever made was done with Alexanders Pale malt extract and Cascade hops. I thought it was just me and my methods that gave that characteristic taste but since others have experienced it with those two ingredients, I will wager that it is a function of Alexanders combined with Cascades. You should try steeping some Crystal malt and adding it to your next batch. I have made partial mashes using Alexanders that didnt have that flavor. (one of the reasons I moved to grain brewing was to get away from that same flavor in my pale ales) ***** Someone wondered about Patrick Weix's Yeast article in Zymurgy. Well, I didnt read that one. (Havent read a lot of Zymurgys in fact) But I believe you will find all of the same information in the Yeast FAQ. It has descriptions of all the major brewing yeasts and is located all over the Web as well as Sierra. Someone else wondered how a post and a reply to that same post could appear in the same HBD. All together now, "E-MAIL". I can hear you slapping your noggin from here... Rev. Ed wonders about his Barleywine hopping. You didnt say what your batch size was, but I assumed 5 gallons and a 6 gallon boil. Using Glenn Tinseths new numbers, I calculated 105 IBUs...Whew, thats still really hopped. I have never made a Barleywine though, so it could be appropriate... And since this is a brewing only forum, I wont comment that I think Rush L. is an ignorant, bigoted, dangerous man. ugh, back to work, John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P johnj at primenet.com Huntington Beach, California Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 8:47:31 PDT From: kdschida at vines.dsd.litton.com Subject: RE: Homebrewing & God BeyondMail Form: Beyond Memo Text: In HBD#1775 Ken Goodrow asks: > I am wondering how many of you are religious, believe in God, etc., and > homebrew? Although I don't like the term "being religious", I love God and I thoroughly enjoy homebrewing! In fact, the group leader of my "Care group" (basically a bible study group through church) helped me brew my very first batch of beer (unfortunately he doesn't have a P.C. to get HBD, so I share mine with him). Also, the wife of the couple who own the local homebrew supply store sings in my church choir which I am also part of. Along with these, I am an usher for church on Sunday, and am one of two leaders for a "Promise Keepers" group for men from the area. I've seen in later issues of HBD individuals getting slightly irate over these posts, but as others have stated, I think this adds to the whole realm of homebrewing and makes discussion interesting. In closing I'd like to say I'm proud to be a Christian, I'm proud to be a home- brewer, and I thank God for my wife who puts up with my brewing and all that goes along with it (including mistakes). Kurt Dschida kdschida at vines.dsd.litton.com 76132.733 at compuserve.com The following was included as an attachement. Please use UUDECODE to retrieve it. The original file name was 'ATTRIBS.BND'. begin 666 ATTRIBS.BND M0F5Y;VYD(%!A8VME9"!!='1R:6)U=&5S``9/(2QD*```````4D4Z($AO;65B M<F5W:6YG("8 at 1V]D```````````````````````````````````````````` M```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````` M`$MU<G0 at 1'-C:&ED80`````````````````````````````````````````` M``````````````````````````````````!6;F8X*T4K22QK```````````` M````````0F5Y;VYD(%!R;W!R:65T87)Y($1A=&$:``````0`````````$``( M````````````````````````````365S<V%G92!%;F-O9&EN9P=)0DTM.#4P M!``````````$``P```````````````````````````!&;W)M"T)E>6]N9"!- M96UO`0`````````5``,```````````````````````````!5<V4 at 4')O<&]R M=&EO;F%L($9O;G0!``$1``````````0`A`0````````````````````````` M`%1E>'1^!$EN($A"1",Q-S<U($ME;B!';V]D<F]W(&%S:W,Z" at H^($D at 86T at M=V]N9&5R:6YG(&AO=R!M86YY(&]F('EO=2!A<F4 at <F5L:6=I;W5S+"!B96QI M979E(&EN($=O9"P at 971C+BP at 86YD"CX at :&]M96)R97<_" at I!;'1H;W5G:"!) M(&1O;B=T(&QI:V4 at =&AE('1E<FT at (F)E:6YG(')E;&EG:6]U<R(L("!)(&QO M=F4 at 1V]D(&%N9"!)('1H;W)O=6=H;'D*96YJ;WD at :&]M96)R97=I;F<A("!) M;B!F86-T+"!T:&4 at 9W)O=7` at ;&5A9&5R(&]F(&UY(")#87)E(&=R;W5P(B`H M8F%S:6-A;&QY"F$ at 8FEB;&4 at <W1U9'D at 9W)O=7` at =&AR;W5G:"!C:'5R8V at I M(&AE;'!E9"!M92!B<F5W(&UY('9E<GD at 9FER<W0 at 8F%T8V at at ;V8*8F5E<B`H M=6YF;W)T=6YA=&5L>2!H92!D;V5S;B=T(&AA=F4 at 82!0+D,N('1O(&=E="!( M0D0L('-O($D at <VAA<F4 at ;6EN90IW:71H(&AI;2DN("!!;'-O+"!T:&4 at =VEF M92!O9B!T:&4 at 8V]U<&QE('=H;R!O=VX at =&AE(&QO8V%L(&AO;65B<F5W('-U M<'!L>0IS=&]R92!S:6YG<R!I;B!M>2!C:'5R8V at at 8VAO:7( at =VAI8V at at 22!A M;2!A;'-O('!A<G0 at ;V8N("!!;&]N9R!W:71H('1H97-E+"!)"F%M(&%N('5S M:&5R(&9O<B!C:'5R8V at at ;VX at 4W5N9&%Y+"!A;F0 at 86T at ;VYE(&]F('1W;R!L M96%D97)S(&9O<B!A"B)0<F]M:7-E($ME97!E<G,B(&=R;W5P(&9O<B!M96X at M9G)O;2!T:&4 at 87)E82X*"DDG=F4 at <V5E;B!I;B!L871E<B!I<W-U97, at ;V8 at M2$)$(&EN9&EV:61U86QS(&=E='1I;F< at <VQI9VAT;'D at :7)A=&4 at ;W9E<B!T M:&5S90IP;W-T<RP at 8G5T(&%S(&]T:&5R<R!H879E('-T871E9"P at 22!T:&EN M:R!T:&ES(&%D9', at =&\ at =&AE('=H;VQE(')E86QM(&]F"FAO;65B<F5W:6YG M(&%N9"!M86ME<R!D:7-C=7-S:6]N(&EN=&5R97-T:6YG+ at H*26X at 8VQO<VEN M9R!))V0 at ;&EK92!T;R!S87D at 22=M('!R;W5D('1O(&)E(&$ at 0VAR:7-T:6%N M+"!))VT at <')O=60 at =&\ at 8F4 at 82!H;VUE+0IB<F5W97(L(&%N9"!)('1H86YK M($=O9"!F;W( at ;7D at =VEF92!W:&\ at <'5T<R!U<"!W:71H(&UY(&)R97=I;F< at M86YD(&%L;`IT:&%T(&=O97, at 86QO;F< at =VET:"!I="`H:6YC;'5D:6YG(&UI M<W1A:V5S*2X*"DMU<G0 at 1'-C:&ED80IK9'-C:&ED84!V:6YE<RYD<V0N;&ET M=&]N+F-O;0HW-C$S,BXW,S-`8V]M<'5S97)V92YC;VT````````````````0 M``8```````````````````````````!!='1A8VAM96YT($-O=6YT!``````` ` end Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:17:00 -0800 (PST) From: David Allison 225-5764 <ALLISON.DAVID at a1gw.gene.com> Subject: SCAM Results Isn't this forum amazing -- I received _numerous_ responses regarding the SCAM posting. More than I have ever received in the past regarding homebrew -- anyway... send no more, because it turns out that ... Probally not a real scam, just a deal that involves owners that have a bust on their hands and can't sell it by normal means. BTW, you aquire the tax burdon and other problems that go with a business. Probally not even worth a buck much less a $100. (IMO, sort of a disguised scam) More to the point; it appears that it is the AHA (or the like) that is selling the names. This is from the feedback that I received. Let them know, along with other organizations, that your membership is on the condition that your name is not sold to other groups. (Of course there may be some who love to receive junk mail. Anyway thanks and let's drop this potential "mercury" thread and get back to homebrewing and related subjects. - David (allison2 at gene.com) Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Jul 1995 10:50:45 -0700 From: "Richard Scotty" <richard_scotty at msmgate.mrg.uswest.com> Subject: RE: Scams & Chiller Sanitation From: Richard Scotty on Thu, Jul 13, 1995 10:48 AM Subject: RE: Scams & Chiller Sanitation To: Homebrew Digest David Allison refers to a "scam" that may or may not be a quasi - legitimate contest where a brew pub in Ft lauderdale is being sold in an essay contest at $100 / entry. Yes Dave, I got the mailing too. I subscribe to BT and am an AHA member also, so one of those 2 organizations must have sold them the list. In the past, I've seen homes sold this way also - through a creative contest. My take is that it is probably a legitimate contest, but I didn't bother to read the multitudinous rules that accompanied the mailing. What happens in the event that they recieve only 10 entries? Are they going to sell the place for $1000? My guess is that there are several "out" clauses in place. I also wonder about the business itself. If it is as busy and profitable as they indicate, why not sell the business conventionally instead of this inane contest? Something doesn't smell right here... In any case, I think I'll hang on to my $100. I really don't have any desire to move to Ft Lauderdale. Rob Lauriston speaks to counter-flow chiller santiation. I find that the best way for me to sanatize mine is to store it with an Iodophor solution inside the tubing with both ends capped. I re-use the Iodophor I used to sterilize my carboys. At the beginning of each brew session I flush this with boiling water and have had no problems with infections. My $.02 worth. Rich Scotty "Given the most carefully controlled conditions, yeast will do as it damn well pleases." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 13:14:58 EDT From: TJWILLIA at VM.OCC.CC.MI.US Subject: Contract Brewing Info. Greetings, This is not strictly a HB related post, but I have made it a habit to seek out the knowledge of this forum for _all_ things beer. That being said, I am about to embark on a quest to locate as much information concerning contract brewing. With many professional brewers divulging their homebrewing past, I assume that other HB'ers have considered such a move and therefore have amassed tomes of knowledge and contacts. Some questions I have: Can brewpubs contract or is this only allowable through micros? Are there minimum brew lengths? Will breweries work with the contract(ee) in formulating recipes? The list goes on and on. Could any pro-brewer-wantabees or any professional brewers using this forum provide information regarding this process? Even if it is just to suggest where to start my inquiries, I would be most appreciative. This should probably go private because of the narrow appeal, but if I get requests I'll post and/or pass along any info I receive. Solidarity fellow brewers. Tom Williams Milford. MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 10:48:59 TZ From: rdevine at microsoft.com Subject: Re: Blow-off/chillers/burners Robert Brown <rbrown00 at uoguelph.ca> writes: > Blow-off tubes: It seems everyone uses either water (boiled or not), or > a sanitizer of preference. I don't feel that suck-back is a concern. > Have you ever watched a really good blow-off in action, if so you aren't > losing any sleep over suck back. I don't use any liquid :), do I hear a > startled collective gasp. Gasp! :-) Actually, putting the end of the blow-off tube in a liquid is a good idea for one reason - bugs. If the end of the tube is open to the air, it is emitting lots of bug-attracting smells that will tempt many flying varmints, especially fruit flies. These flies are carriers for lots of bacteria to infect your beer. I don't put much faith in having a sterile solution as a protection against suck-back because most brewers do not have a closed system and the blow-off container, since it open to the air, can quickly become contaminated. Bob Devine Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 10:54:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Sherman <dsherman at sdcc3.ucsd.edu> Subject: propane cookers Rob Brown pointed out that the Metal Fusion 800 number was no longer in service. For those of you interested in checking out their King Kooker propane burners, their number is: (504) 736-0201 No connection, blah, blah... Dan Sherman San Diego, CA dsherman at ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 10:56:48 TZ From: rdevine at microsoft.com Subject: Re: 250F w/out pressure? Dan Sherman <dsherman at sdcc3.ucsd.edu> asks: | In HBD #1778, Bob Devine wrote: | >There was a research paper on the efficiency of hop extraction | >using higher temp that I came across a while ago. If I remember | >right, the 1950's era paper found that a 250 F temp water bath | ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ | >produced the best extraction rate. Pressure didn't really matter. | ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ | Bob, is that a typo? Since the boiling temp. of water at sea level | (1 atm. pressure) is 212 F, to get a 250 F water bath, it must be | under some amount of pressure. If it _was_ a "250 F bath" they must | have been using a liquid other than water. No typo, it was just unclear. I meant that pressure of the closed system wasn't a significant factor in the hop extraction rate. So a typical pressure cooker could be used; there is no need for any exotic pressure levels to go with the temp needed for a boil at roughly the 250F level. Bob Devine Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 13:41 EST From: Bob Sutton <BSutton_+a_fdgv-03_+lBob_Sutton+r%Fluor_Daniel at mcimail.com> Subject: Insert Your Blowoff Tube Here Text item: Text_1 Thought I'd add my $0.02 to the blow-off tube debate. First it IS quite possible that microbial growth will find its way into your fermentor during. Microbes readily migrate along the tube wall despite the blow- off. The krausen provides a significant nutrient source for all types of scumdoochies. Many have expressed concerns regarding suck-back. This is real. I nearly lost several batches when I started out. currently, I use a bleach (cheap) solution as a sealing media during the fermentation. However, I leave the primary setup with a traditional airlock until temperatures have stabilized, then I switch to the blow-off tube. I fill the airlock with cheap vodka, which has proven to be a durable barrier against infection. If suck-back occurs, no major tragedy befalls me. I suppose one could use a 50% vodka mix in the blow-off container. But, $$$ counts. On another note, 70% ethanol is an excellent bactericide to wipe down the Wyeast puffpacks. It's pretty much the standard for the biotech industry. Sure its not sterilization (we call it bioburden reduction), but neither are the other methods (bleach, iodophor). What we are really trying to do is ensure that our yeasties proliferate significantly greater than the scumdoochies. On a wholly (holy ? ) religious note.....#^**_ ()*&*^&# Brew Onward Christian Soldiers Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 15:09:26 -0400 From: ClearBeer at aol.com Subject: Finings Hello fellow brewers: Could some knowledgeable soul please help me. My kegged beer has not been as clear as I would like (all extract) and I am considering using polyclar, inisglass, silica gel or gelatin. Every source I have seen lists a different way to use these finings. Do you add to the primed beer, or in the secondary? How much do you use and for how long? If there is a Finings.FAQ around I would appreciate knowing where. By the way I do use Irish Moss in my boil. Thanks. Larry Hawley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 11:12:51 MDT From: stampes at xilinx.com (Jeff Stampes) Subject: Suds Just a quick nore re: Suds for Windows I did my first partial mash last week (actually a full mash with additional extract and honey added to boil...made a BIG beer that I watered down to 2 5 gallon batches before fermentation). Unfortunately, Suds appeared to be confused by the partial mash, and when it calculated the water needed to hit my strike temperatures, it used by total weight of all grains AND extracts...in other words, it said I had 21 lbs of grain, when I was really using 13 lbs. of grain in the mash and adding 4 lbs extract and 4 lbs honey to the boil. Just a heads up for y'all - -- Jeff Stampes -- NeoCAD, Inc. -- Boulder, CO -- stampes at neocad.com -- - -- Ultimate Frisbee...It's not just for dogs anymore. -- - -- Any fool can make bread out of grain...God intended it for beer! -- Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1782, 07/15/95