HOMEBREW Digest #1789 Mon 24 July 1995

Digest #1788 Digest #1790

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  seeking advice on beer body (Adam Rich)
  re questionnaire (Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna)
  Getting into HomeBrew - Just Do it...! (Richard=Myers)
  Bakers Chocolate/Fridge Temp Control (Rick Starke)
  Homebrew newbie (Jeff Foley)
  Yeast Repitching Technique (Tim Laatsch)
  enzymes in programmed mash (Rob Lauriston)
  Clearing Yeast Sediment.... (KittyONeil)
  Born again fermentation (David Mercer)
  Yeast Agar Formulae ("Harney,Alan")
  Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1786 (July 20, 1995) (GeepMaley)
  How much grain to make up for extract? ("Robert Marshall")
  re: homebrew on campu ("Robert Marshall")
  Laaglander DME (LEE_BOLLARD)
  HELP!!!Re(2): Homebrew Digest Request (July 21, 1995) (Robert V. Ashley)
  Cancel- HELP!!!Re(2): Homebrew Digest Request (July 21, 1995) (Robert V. Ashley)
  Agar-agar/plastic petrie dishes ("Mark A. Melton")
  New brew pub in RI (Rolland Everitt)
  nobody home (Spliffo)
  Re: #1(3) Homebrew Digest #1788 (July 22, 1995) (Saylor1/Apple)
  keg measuring (Martin Hatlelid)
  Corny Keg measuring (Martin Hatlelid)
  Is My Beer Ruined?/Changes in Wyeast British Ale (Mark Peacock)
  Malting Grains (trl)
  Plastic bottles OK? (Rolland Everitt)
  Brewing & the Environment (Brent Irvine)
  Re: Beer In Space (Chris Strickland)
  Hot break dumpling update and raw wheat efficiency (Jeff Renner)
  Ginger wit recipe (Jeff Renner)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Jul 1995 11:16:21 -0500 From: rich.adam at mayo.edu (Adam Rich) Subject: seeking advice on beer body Hello: I have a couple of simple questions that I have been struggling with for some time. Some advice will be greatly appreciated! My beer has been criticized for 'low body' several times (contests many months apart/ differnt beers each time). I don't think that the body is thin! Question number one: what is body? Maybe I just don't know what body is! How do I determine it? That is, do I swirl the beer in my mouth, let it sit on my tounge for a short time... Here is a complete account of this batch of an IPA: 6 lbs Munton and Fison DME, 1 lb Munich malt, 1/2 lb crystal (40L), 1/2 lb cara pils. I steeped the grains for 1 hour in 2 gallons of water at 170 degrees F, rinsed the grain (raised/ lowered nylon bag several times), brought to a boil and added 1 ounce Fuggles (AA 4.5%), another 1/2 ounce at 40 minutes, then 1/2 ounce at end of boil. Cooled in an ice water rabth, then poured into carboy with 3 gallons cold water. Pitched yeast cake form previous batch (Wyeast 1084: British). Active fermentation was evident in 6 hours. OG was 1.060. Racked to a secondary in 4 day (gravity was 1.020) and dryhopped with 1 ounce Fuggles. Bottled 6 days later (FG = 1.020). Note that the temperature was very hot, mid 80's during fermentation. Now, I know that this beer is not brewed "true to style". I was hopeing for an English Style IPA and, according to Glen Tinseth's Brewsheet the HBU's are only around 19. I plan to work on style considerations but, for now, my main concern is the low body score. Thanks, Adam Adam Rich richa at mayo.edu Department of Physiology and Biophysics Guggenheim 9 Mayo Foundation Rochester, MN 55905 507-284-0879 (lab) 507-252-8115 (home) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 95 12:21:41 EST From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna at relay.com Subject: re questionnaire James Gaspar states: >I am an architecture student at the >University of Southwestern Louisiana. I am distributing this questionnaire >in an effort to gather information that will be very helpful to me in >developing my architectural thesis Wouldn't normally respond, but in former lives I used to do market analysis and sociological studies. James' post doesn't ring true to me. Pls correct me if I'm wrong, but what does brewing have to do with an *architectural* thesis? Well, yea, maybe if you asked about brewery construction... but your questions are targeted toward demographic and buying preference analysis. Come on... I don't see a single question that even remotely relates to architecture.....but you would like to know how much money I make? What the revenue and *profit* numbers for Joe's microbrewery are? (only GOD and the accountants get the profit numbers) How much I spend a year on brewing supplies? (I'd be afraid to calculate it ;-) Something's rotten in the fermenter, and its' not a bat... what's this questionnaire got to do with architecture??? -Tim Tim Fields / Vienna, VA, USA / timf at relay.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 95 11:03:23 CDT From: <Richard=Myers%Corp=Admin=Sys%IM=Hou at bangate.compaq.com> Subject: Getting into HomeBrew - Just Do it...! Jeff, Don't let all the new terms get to you... The basics for extract brewing are clean, sanatize, boil, cool, place in fermenter, clean, ferment, clean, sanatize, bottle, let age, drink, enjoy, start over... I would suggest that you go to the local book store and get a book on HomeBrewing. They will be in the Wine/Spirits section. The books will explain the process and the other terms. The other thing to do is locate the nearest HomeBrew Supply store and talk with the people who work there. They will usually be happy to talk about the brewing process and to get you what you need to get started. I currently brew using extracts and have been very very happy with all but one batch (it has a sour taste due to an infection). I have been "reading the books" and seeing what others are doing and will be making the move to all-grain in the near future. Most importantly remember - Relax, Don't Worry and have a HomeBrew. Richard Myers Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 95 12:53:51 EDT From: fastarke at rickstr.mawes.ingr.com (Rick Starke) Subject: Bakers Chocolate/Fridge Temp Control Good Day HBD'ers I'm looking for comments/experiences/gotchas regarding the use of Bakers Chocolate in a Stout we (my cousin and I) plan on brewing. Oil and and the problems it brings come to mind immediately. Any more? I recently brewed my first Pils using dry lager yeast. (Please no liquid yeast comments, I'm getting there) Anyway, the instructions involved keep- ing the temp at 50-60 for a couple of weeks, no easy task in July. I was fortunate in being able to commandeer the fridge in the basement for beer, and resolved the temp control problem by plugging and unplugging it daily. While while unplugging it the other night, and lamenting the fact that I have no thermostat and no plans to actually buy one (yeesh, buy something for brewing besides ingredients....) I hit upon the idea of using a simple timer I had bought for about $6. You know, the kind that turn your lights on and off when you are on vacation. I have an old fridge which has only a 2-prong plug, and I just plugged it into the timer. I run the fridge for 5 hours a day, and my brew stays at a (fairly) constant 55 degrees. Just a little info for you folks who are to cheap/mechanically impaired to buy and/or install a thermometer on your beer fridge. Rick Starke fastarke at ingr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 95 13:05:30 EST From: Jeff.Foley at f1.n309.z1.fidonet.org (Jeff Foley) Subject: Homebrew newbie Hello Jeff, >I am thinking about getting into brewing. At first I thought it was basiclly >boil, ferment, and bottle. But now I hear the terms sparge, wort, carboy and >a ton of other terms I have never heard of. Can anyone help learn what all >this is or turn me in the right direction to find out. The more I hear the >more it is causing me to second guess about trying homebrew. I don't want to sound rude or anything, but are you interested in reading about homebrewing? All the terms you mentioned should show up in any text on the subject. Two really good books to look for are: Dave Miller, The Complete Handbook of Home Brewing. Charlie Papazian, The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing. There are lots of other references, the ftp repository at stanford, magazines, etc. Feel free to ask additional questions. John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 1995 13:14:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Tim Laatsch <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu> Subject: Yeast Repitching Technique Hello Collective, Here's my latest approach to yeast repitching for your comments/critique/discussion. Disclaimer: The technique is a little bit unconventional but I believe it results in selection of flocculent and healthy yeast, minimizes contamination risk, allows for adequate control over pitching rates, minimizes trub carryover, and gives rapid starts and vigorous fermentation. After racking to the secondary, I flame-sterilize the mouth of my primary carboy by wiping it down with ethanol and setting it on fire. It's not really dangerous and it can be quite thrilling. ;) Please use some common sense and don't burn your house down or set your hand on fire. (end safety paranoia) We routinely use this technique in our micro lab. I then cover the mouth of the carboy with flame-sterilized aluminum foil. I prepare a starter directly in a 1000-ml Erlenmeyer Flask. As I'm sure many of you are aware, they're made of Pyrex, so you can put them right over the flame, boil, chill, and ferment in the same vessel---i.e. no transfer means less chance of bacterial contamination. I swirl up the remaining beer, trub, and yeast cake, then flame-sterilize the mouths of the carboy and starter flask, and pour about 50-mls of the yeast mixture into the starter. The starter is allowed to ferment out as normal and is pitched to fresh wort. I think this is advantageous for several reasons: 1. By taking yeast from the bottom of the primary, you select for the most flocculent and healthy yeast (as opposed to taking it from the secondary, which has yeast that hung around in suspension the first time--i.e. less flocculent). If you repeatedly harvest yeast from the secondary to minimize trub carryover, then you are acting as a natural selection force and thereby causing your yeast strain to gradually become less flocculent. OTOH, yeast from the secondary may be more alcohol tolerant or perhaps you're looking for non-flocculent varieties. But not me. 2. More control over pitching rates, thus more predictable and repeatable results and no worries about overpitching. Overpitching may not be that large a concern, but I have had problems with yeastbite when pouring fresh wort over dregs from the primary. Others do this routinely, so as always, YMMV. 3. Less residual trub in your new beer, thus less potential off-flavor development (as opposed to pouring wort on dregs). 4. Very little chance for contamination as with yeast washing techniques, due to minimal transfers. (Unless you acid-wash) 5. As usual, I can taste the starter before pitching to ensure that things are in order. You can do the same with finished beer from the primary, I know, but nonetheless... 6. I still get rapid starts, on the order of 10-12 hours and healthy fermentations (mean 74% attenuation with 1084 Irish in 3 batches). The biggest possible disadvantage I can see is that using a starter between batches increases the number of generations, increasing the risk for mutations. However, I recently tried this approach with a packet of Wyeast Irish and got 3 very nice beers out of it before I became paranoid and discarded the last yeastcake. It may be less suitable for a yeast like 1056 that is supposedly more prone to mutation. I think I could have gone several more generations, but was advised to switch yeasts for my needs and wanton desires. One unusual observation was that the yeast seemed to be gradually becoming more flocculent and exhibited attached growth on the ribs of the fermenter. This phenomenon seemed to increase with successive generations. What else could account for this? The reason why I've gone to this technique is that the only 2 times I've tried fermenting by racking to a primary yeastcake, I made bad beers---not so bad that I couldn't drink them, mind you. ;) One was a porter that had a nasty yeastbite and lots of suspended yeast----I think this was due to overpitching. Also, I'm not confident that my yeast washing techniques are sanitary enough at home (haven't built my BT $100 laminar flow hood yet or installed an autoclave!). Lastly, I'm financially strapped (no thanks to grad school) and need to save money on yeast. This technique has proven itself effective, is saving me loads of money, and I'm going to continue using it despite your inevitable criticisms. ;-) Asbestos shields up! Just wanted to share my experiences in hopes of helping out someone else. Tim PS Has anybody experienced oxidation trouble with dark beers when stove-top mashing and transferring to a Zapap-style lauter-tun? If so, contact me offline. Thanks. *=============================================================================* | Timothy P. Laatsch | email: laatsch at kbs.msu.edu | Aspiring | | Graduate Student-Microbiology | biz phone: 616-671-2329 | All-Grain | | Michigan State University/KBS | fax: 616-671-2104 | Homebrewer | | Kalamazoo, MI (Home of Bell's) | obsession: American Pale Ale | & Scientist | *=============================================================================* Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 95 12:30:06 -0700 From: robtrish at noif.ncp.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston) Subject: enzymes in programmed mash Howdy folks, I do temperature program mashes almost exclusively, and I am wondering if anyone has info or rumours about the speed at which the amylases work or why 1'C/minute is often given as the optimal rate at which to heat the mash. For example, on page 283 of volume one Malting and Brewing Science (Briggs, Hough,Stevens,Young) there is a graph which shows the increase in carbohydrate fractions during a programmed mash, and the rate seems to be 1'C/min. MOST OF THE FERMENTABLES ARE PRESENT AFTER THE RISE TO 65'C! And the unfermentables increase more during the rise than during the rest. This suggests that the rate of rise is of far, far more importance than the temperature and length of the rest. I'd say offhand that the idea of controlling your body and fermentables via mash temperature is applicable mainly to single step infusion. If this is a re-run, could some one direct me to the museum? Even less than $0.02 would be a worthwhile contribution, so dammit, stop lurking and talk to me! - Rob Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 1995 15:45:07 -0400 From: KittyONeil at aol.com Subject: Clearing Yeast Sediment.... I'd like to hear some ideas for clearing yeast sediment from finished beer. I've left ale in secondary for 3 weeks or so which has cleared 90% of the sediment, but I still get a little in the bottom of my bottles. Is it possible to end up with no sediment? I realize there will be some yeast growth in the bottle. Is there anything that works better than just leaving beer in the secondary for some length of time? Thanks for your help. Kitty O'Neil Novice Brewer Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 1995 14:01:04 -0700 From: dmercer at path.org (David Mercer) Subject: Born again fermentation No, this is not part of the religious thread... I am a newbie (this post refers to my second batch) so forgive me if I appear to be worrying too much. Four weeks ago I brewed an ale: 7# DME, 1# crystal, 2oz Northern brewer (boil), 1 oz cascade (finish), one packet of Coopers dry ale yeast. Full wort boil with a quick chill. I pitched the yeast at about 75 degrees, and active, but not violent, fermentation had started by 12 hours. It continued for about two days before dying down, and after a week I racked to a secondary and took a reading (1.038). I figured it would probably take about three weeks in the secondary, even though it was *real* quiet - e.g. no activity at all in my airlock. So after another week, when I thought there'd be another two to go, I threw in an ounce of cascade pellets. Well. Suddenly the airlock is bubbling away as the hops expanded on the surface of the beer. No big deal. I figured they were real cold (I'd kept them in the freezer) and they were just triggering some dissolved CO2. The hops dropped down after a day or so, and so did the activity in the airlock, except now I was getting a bubble every 40 seconds (whereas before I added the hops I was getting nothing). The next day it was every 30 seconds, the day after that every 25... you get the picture. Now, after four weeks, the damn thing is chugging along almost at the rate of an active fermentation - a thick head has formed on the top - and the airlock is glugging every 5 seconds. Clearly this is going to continue for a while. Next week I am going out of town for three weeks. My questions are: Is this going to form another trub and should I rack this to a 'tertiary' fermenter before I leave? I clearly dry-hopped a little too early. Will this active fermentation defeat the purpose of the dry-hopping and should I throw in another half ounce when the activity in the carboy settles down? Could throwing in the hop pellets have 'shocked' the yeast into doing it's thing, or is the timing just a coincidence? Thanks in advance. Dave Mercer Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Jul 1995 15:24:32 U From: "Harney,Alan" <harney at mail.labmed.washington.edu> Subject: Yeast Agar Formulae On 7/21, BixMeister asked; Date: Wed, 19 Jul 1995 19:54:31 -0400 From: BixMeister at aol.com Subject: Agar Agar-How Much? Could some knowledgeable yeast culturist give me an idea how much Agar Agar(dried seaweed) to use with 8 ounces of wort in order to make a brewing agar media for culturing yeast. I want to pour the gelatinized solution into polystyrene petri dishes. Also ideas concerning maintaining sterile media would be helpful. BixMeister - -------------------------------------------------------- The formulation for "Yeast Morphology Agar", taken from the Difco Manual, calls for 18 grams of Bacto agar per 100 grams of dehydrated medium. 100 grams rehydrates to make 2.8 liters of medium suitable for plating. Since we are assuming that the wort is taking the place of the 26 other salts, amino acids, vitamins, carbohydrates and nitrogen sources the formaulation specifies, I would go with 6.5 grams of agar per liter of wort. You ought to check the pH of the final product, though. The final reaction of this medium is pH=5.6 out of the box. YMMV with wort as the diluent. You can store your plates at RT, but keep them in sealed plastic bags. Culture media is (obviously!) a wonderful place to grow things. And the endemic saprophytic fungi that normally infest our homes and brewhouses would love nothing more than to find a cozy home on board your media plates. If any become contaminated, DO NOT open the bag to get a closer look!!! When you open a plate, you tend to spew billions of spores hither and yon. So unless you relish the idea of bleaching your entire brewhouse to knock down an Aspergillus epidemic, just throw the contaminated plates away. You might want to acquire a copy of "The Manual of Clinical Microbiology", published by the American Society for Microbiology. It has several chapters on basic micro lab techniques that you may find useful. Alan "Pilsener- one of the four basic food groups" _________________________________________________________________ Alan Harney "Anything worth doing is worth Dept. of Laboratory Medicine doing to excess" University of Washington -Hipshot Percussion harney at mail.labmed.washington.edu _________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 1995 18:52:23 -0400 From: GeepMaley at aol.com Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1786 (July 20, 1995) In HBD 1786, James Drago writes: >Some reading I have done has lead me to believe the easiest and most inexpensive >way to do this is to add corn sugar. I have about 1# available and I am considering >doing this.... DON'T DO IT.....adding 1 lb sugar to 5 lbs of extract will give you a much lighter version of the beer you are trying to make. If possible, get some wheat extract from your local homebrew shop (is there one nearby??). In liquid form, the extract is usually a blend (60/40 or so) of wheat and barley malt extract and will add much better flavor, etc to your batch. You will need to boost your hops as well, but most wheat beers are not all that hoppy to begin with. Happy brewing, Geep Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 04:47:39 -0800 From: "Robert Marshall" <robertjm at hooked.net> Subject: How much grain to make up for extract? I saw a post the other day asking about DME vs. Extract and got me thinking about my future batch of pale ale. Usually I put in 5 pounds of light malt extract (liquid), however, I was thinking about doing a 100% all grain batch instead. If I do that, how much Klages 2-row malt do I need to make up for each pound of malt extract? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Later, Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 04:58:39 -0800 From: "Robert Marshall" <robertjm at hooked.net> Subject: re: homebrew on campu Mark W. Wilson wrote: >Homebrewing, however, is the BEST thing that could happen to a college >campus. My freshman year I was pretty much a wreck, probably an alcoholic >by most definitions. That summer, after reading about homebrewing on >BBOARDS (including HBD) I bought Papazian's book and started brewing. Voila > - overconsumption cured. Forcing down the special of the week to get a huge >headache is no competition to enjoying a few homeade brown ales. The more >exposure inexperienced drinkers have with good alcohol tends to make them >shy from binging. (I also "Converted" three fraternity brothers to the I agree with Mark 100% on this one. When I first got to my college, it was my first time away from home. Also the state's drinking age was 19!! Pretty much everyone in the fraternity bought the beer du jeur (whatever was the cheapest at the time) and it was usually pretty bad. After waking up with too many hangovers, I moved towards the "fancy beers" as some of my brothers would say. I never forget the look on their face when they told me to pick out a good six pack. I did....Guiness Stout!! One guy took one taste and swore, "this stuff tastes like charcoal." Its kinda ironic that he confided to me that he has become quite a stout drinker now. :) As a home brewer you start to appreciate beer more. For me it is not just the taste, but also the process of making the stuff. I forget where I read it, but someone suggested that it was "dissrespective" to your beer if you drink it straight out of the bottle and don't use a glass. While I think that this is taking it to the extreme perhaps, I do follow that at home, no matter what beer it is I'm drinking. I think that more fraternity brothers are starting to respect beer more, especially as you see the better quality beers coming out in kegs. Of course you're still going to get the Bud and Miller people, but that's just the way things are going to be. Afterall, could you imagine a party with kegs of nothing but Celis Grand Cru or Guiness Stout? I sure could, but the party budget would sure be a wee bit high!!! Later, Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 95 21:41:02 -0600 From: LEE_BOLLARD at HP-Spokane-om2.om.hp.com Subject: Laaglander DME Item Subject: cc:Mail Text The other day I bought a bunch of Laaglander DME for making yeast starters. Today I read about the high percentage of unfermentable sugars in this DME. Will this affect my yeast starters? Is Laaglander a good choice for yeast starters? I want to optimize my yeast starters and really build them up... I want no chance of error! Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 95 23:55:54 EST From: Robert_V._Ashley at fc1.glfn.org (Robert V. Ashley) Subject: HELP!!!Re(2): Homebrew Digest Request (July 21, 1995) I had typed a homebrew-request for an address, now I'm getting my mailbox filled with the same message. HELP. Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 95 00:21:58 EST From: Robert_V._Ashley at fc1.glfn.org (Robert V. Ashley) Subject: Cancel- HELP!!!Re(2): Homebrew Digest Request (July 21, 1995) I had typed a homebrew-request for an address, now I'm getting my mailbox filled with the same message. HELP. Thanks. ======================================= My auto reply was left on. Ya ya the laughs on me guys. Robert Ashley Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Jul 95 00:54:35 EDT From: "Mark A. Melton" <75452.277 at compuserve.com> Subject: Agar-agar/plastic petrie dishes BixMeister (on 19 July) asked about the amount of (presumably raw, crude) agar-agar to use in 8 oz of wort to make agar plates in plastic petrie dishes. For years I have made giotis, a Greek flan-like dessert using 1/6th cup of agar-agar clippings in 2 cups of sweetened, milk-enriched water to make a very solid gel. Thus the answer would be 1/12 oz. per 8 oz. However, for an agar plate this quantity could probably be cut in half and a good gel achieved. Japanese or Korean grocery store agar is not expensive so the amount is not critical. I suggest that after boiling the agar strips in the wort for about 10 minutes, the solution should be strained through an old T-shirt to remove the proportion that does not dissolve. I question the home use of plastic petrie dishes that cannot be autoclaved. Every one that I have made by pouring boiling agar/wort into a sanitized plastic petrie dish, covered, and placed in a zip-lock (T) bag that has been rinsed with iodophor, has become contaminated with lactobacillus (?--it smells cheezy) within 12 hours. Without a lab environment there are too many air-borne contaminants for this to work. Get Pyrex or other autoclavable petrie dishes and autoclave the agar/wort in the covered dish for 20 minutes, and very quickly seal it while still hot with plastic wrap. Even that is dicey. The difficulty in making uncontaminated agar plates is demonstrated by ordering a bunch of them from one of the brewing supply houses. The order of 8 that I got recently had 5 contaminated with molds --and they were made in a univ. bacteriological lab by a moonlighter. Mark A. Melton 75452.277 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 1995 08:11:15 -0400 From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt) Subject: New brew pub in RI If any of you are planning a trip to the Newport, Rhode Island area, plan to visit the Coddington Brewing Company. It's a new brew pub and restaurant on Coddington Highway just outside Newport. They have four different home brews on tap, as well as Woodchuck cider. All are quite good IMHO. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 1995 10:34:54 -0400 From: Spliffo at aol.com Subject: nobody home I'm having a blast just absorbing brewing info and reading the HBD. As far as accessing: < If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.> These folks are overloaded and never home! ( ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com) Any other ftpmail at ------------ sites!! TIA..... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 1995 16:14:25 -0700 From: Saylor1/Apple at eworld.com Subject: Re: #1(3) Homebrew Digest #1788 (July 22, 1995) Could some one please help me with the proper method for prep'n rice for brewing? I've a desire to make a Basmati Ale. The rice has a real nice aroma and I'd like to see how it translates in the beer. I'm thinking I'll follow my standard IPA all grain tact and use the basmati as a 2# adjunct. Comments? "A good day brewing beats a bad day fishing any time." Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 1995 16:36:12 -0700 From: martunes at unix.infoserve.net (Martin Hatlelid) Subject: keg measuring Matt K writes >A friend asked me the other day is there is a gadget which would tell >him how much beer is left in his keg. I usually tell either by weight > or by the condensation that forms when you take the keg out of the >fridge for a while but he still wants some kind of gizmo. So, >gadget-heads, anyone know of anything? > A friend suggested I put a bathroom scale under my kegs. You see them at flea markets and yard/garage sales for nothing. One could fill it with water and weigh it, record the info, dispense a gallon - weigh it - record, etc. You could be as accurate as you wanted to be. The scale wouldn't even have to be very accurate as long as it's consistent. I haven't tried this but it sounds like a good idea. Martin Vancouver B.C. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ A lot of people are afraid of heights. Not me, I'm afraid of widths. -- Steven Wright Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 1995 16:55:29 -0700 From: martunes at unix.infoserve.net (Martin Hatlelid) Subject: Corny Keg measuring Matt K writes >A friend asked me the other day is there is a gadget which would tell >him how much beer is left in his keg. I usually tell either by weight > or by the condensation that forms when you take the keg out of the >fridge for a while but he still wants some kind of gizmo. So, >gadget-heads, anyone know of anything? > A friend suggested I put a bathroom scale under my kegs. You see them at flea markets and yard/garage sales for nothing. One could fill it with water and weigh it, record the info, dispense a gallon - weigh it - record, etc. You could be as accurate as you wanted to be. The scale wouldn't even have to be very accurate as long as it's consistent. I haven't tried this but it sounds like a good idea. Martin Vancouver B.C. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ A lot of people are afraid of heights. Not me, I'm afraid of widths. -- Steven Wright Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 1995 19:01:43 -0700 From: mpeacock at oeonline.com (Mark Peacock) Subject: Is My Beer Ruined?/Changes in Wyeast British Ale A new addition to the Is My Beer Ruined FAQ: I live in the MidWest, and was brewing a wheat beer with Wyeast #3068 Weihenstephan yeast during last week's heat wave. I just racked to the secondary what smelled like a banana smoothie. Is my beer ruined? And a corollary: My power was out for two days last week. Is my yeast ranch ruined? Now for some value-added comments: Has anybody noticed a change in Wyeast #1098 British Ale yeast? Last year, when I used it to make a pale ale, it fired off with a short lag time and bubbled away aggressively. Last month, I brewed a pale ale with a similar recipe/OG/ aeration techniques, and the #1098 was very slow in starting. Has anyone else noticed this? Mark Peacock Birmingham, Michigan mpeacock at oeonline.com {Big Business} On the Web - http://oeonline.com/~mpeacock/bbusiness.html Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 1995 23:15:20 -0400 From: trl at richmond.infi.net Subject: Malting Grains I have scanned my previous HBD for a couple hours and have been unsuccesful locating the request some time ago regarding information on malting Barley so I am asking for help. I am interested in attempting to malt my own Barley and was trying to locate the person requesting the information before to get a summary of the info he recieved. I would appreciate his E-Mail address if anyone has it OR any info on malting OR the name of a good source of info. On Friday I bought 1 bushel of 6 row and want to try. As everyone else says..... TIA Tom Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 1995 09:22:14 -0400 From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt) Subject: Plastic bottles OK? I am a beginner who has made one batch of beer years ago from an extract kit. The results were...um...unsatisfactory. I want to have another go at it, but I am hoping to avoid the hassle of using crown capped bottles. I'm not ready for a keg yet, so I am considering using 1.5 liter plastic soda bottles. They seem to be made to take high pressure and shipping, and I think that the way the bottom is shaped might help keep the dregs from mobilizing (the way the steal does in the bottom of a champagne bottle). Has anyone tried this? Any comments or suggestions? Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 95 11:14:19 EDT From: Brent Irvine <brenirvi at village.ca> Subject: Brewing & the Environment There are many things which are dear to me. Among them are homebrewing and doing my part preserving our environment. Consequently, when I can put a few of these principles/hobbies/etc. together, I am quite pleased. Thus is the case in my quest for better and tastier suds in a sacred way (NOTE - nothing religious implied.) With these in mind, I throw to the collective my questions and ideas theat relate to my little home brewery. 1. If there were a legal way to do it, if we removed the alcohol from, say, a not-too-tasty batch, for use in perhaps a lawnmower or chainsaw, what % pureness would be required in order to run these machines cleanly? Furthermore, what % could one achieve in a non-laboratory setting? Finally, what red tape would one require to do such a thing - or is that a question as far-fetched as will Windows 95 ever exist? 2. When I began brewing while at Queen's University, Kingston, ON, in 1992, I gave a lot of consideration to the type of storage medium I would use. What I found at most supply stores were the PET bottles in 500 ml and 1 l sizes, regular 341 ml beer bottles, and of course, numerous types of kegs, pigs, chickens (just kidding) and balls. On my daily bicycle ride to school (yes, even during snowstorms) I would see all kinds of PET (or their glass equivalent) bottles in the recycling bins. Lo and behold, the neck sizes were the same as the PET bottles in the stores. Other than being clear/green instead of brown, it seemed that I had my problem solved. So, I diligently set out collecting enough bottles. I kept my own. Friends gave me their bottles. Until I had accumulated 20 two-fours of 500 ml bottles. Or ten 5-gallon batches. I spent a few dollars on the re-usable caps, and was all set. With this set-up, I am not hoarding Labatt's or Molson's bottles. I am not tying up 10 cents per bottle. I can re-use bottles and caps indefinitely. I have saved land fill space and/or recycling costs. The larger sized bottle translates to less time bottling. Less beer is wasted to the bottom sediment. And each beer is a full size beer, rather than the puny commercial sizes. None of these on their own is tremendously significant; however, all told, I am pleased with the accumulated total. Now, one might argue that using clear or green bottles may lead to skunky beer. To alleviate this problem, I store them in a dark room in the basement, which is a constant 60 F. I pop them into the fridge as needed. Yum. 3. When I prepare my brews, I tend to pour out the sediment from my primary and secondary either into the lawn, garden, or compost pile. Other than making the yeard smell like a brewery for a few hours, this seems to be nothing less than a good idea. Particularly when even up here in northern Ontario, we have had some pretty hot weather and dry spells - a good use for rinsing water (of course, not with chlorine added!) I do the same thing with unpalatable batches. Any other uses? 4. When on any of these hot summer days I wish to ponder any of these priciples or hobbies, I have a solution. Search out one of those pre-chilled brews. Make your way out to the back yard with the chilly and a frosty glass. Put the chilly into the frosty. Slowly sip while pondering. If anyone else has any such thoughts, I'd be happy to hear them. If we each do a little, we'll all contribute a lot. Brent Irvine Lake Commando B & B Cochrane, ON *Home of the Polar Bear Express* Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 1995 11:58:42 -0400 From: cstrick at iu.net (Chris Strickland) Subject: Re: Beer In Space Hmm! I don't remember the sender (Mark), of the beer in space article, taking credit for writing it. I seem to remember it quoted an unknown author. Of course I'm approaching 40 and you know us old folks start losing our memories. I have been the victim of flames on other listservers when someone has skipped part of the message (the part that was important). I use flame back to the group, about not reading a whole message and emotions where raised. However, I once had a kind person question me privately without flame. I replied with a friendly response, and the problem was solved. I saw how he could have misinterperted what I said and sent another message to the server clearing up the problem. When we talked privately, things were cleared up and the problem solved without any flaming. Could I suggest for a first salvo, sending an email requesting a clarification of the original email. Even drinking a few homebrews before replying. The problem will be resolved in a friendly manner in 99% of the cases. If that doesn't work, then flame away. But most of all, is our motto to just "relax, have a homebrew". - -------------- Chris Strickland cstrick at iu.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 95 15:56:14 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Hot break dumpling update and raw wheat efficiency Several weeks ago I reported on the large coagulations (dumplings) of hot break I got in a wit beer (see following post for recipe), and worried that I would not have sufficient proteins remaining for head retention. I needn't have worried. The head is better than on any beer I have ever made (no doubt all of that raw wheat). It is incredibly tight and leaves _clumps_ of meringue-like foam on the sides and bottom of the empty glass. I am pleased. :-) WRT lower extraction from raw wheat (as reported by A.J. deLange), I got virtually my usual extraction rate (31.6 p*g/p into the boiler) using 45% raw wheat. My success may be attributable to my having used *soft* wheat. This is literally softer, so it mills more easily. I used a Corona mill and milled to a coarse meal in two passes. Hard wheat's protein matrix may also physically interfere with enzyme access. I think that soft wheat is a natural for brewing, especially the white varieties we grow here in Michigan (and also in NY). Soft wheat has lower protein (typically 9% compared to 11-14% for hard), which is in line with the protein levels of the best malting barleys. The proteins are weak glutens as opposed to the strong glutens of hard wheat, and absorb less water. I think these may make for an easier sparge. Furthermore, white wheat has lower levels of phenols and tannins than red varieties, giving potentially a less harsh flavor. I am certainly pleased with the results. Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 95 16:01:10 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Ginger wit recipe My ginger wit is bottled and tastes great. It is a wonderfully refreshing summer cooler that even non-beer drinkers seem to like. The ginger is present but not "in your face," and the orangey coriander makes it recognizably a wit. The cardamom and grain of paradise are at present subliminal, as are the flavor and aroma hops. I expect it to evolve further. I substituted ginger for the more traditional bitter orange peal, but I feel that this is a variable style where "traditional" is hard to pin down, and this kind of recipe is in keeping with the spirit of tradition. The subtle ginger "bite" seems to substitute nicely for the omitted lactic acidity. At 19 days from mash to mouth, there's still time to brew and enjoy this summer! 7-1/2 gallons with OG 1.047: Grain bill: 6 lb. American 6-row malt (for its higher enzyme levels) (50%), roller milled 5 lb, 6oz. soft, white, winter, Michigan wheat (45%), double ground in Corona to a coarse meal 11 oz. rolled oats (5%) Water: Boiled and decanted (to soften) well water plus 2 tsp. CaCl2*2H2O in 12 gal. Hops (18 IBU Target): 1 oz. Liberty plugs at 5.9% alpha acid, 80 minutes boil 1 oz. ditto, 12 minutes boil 1 oz. ditto, at strike out, plus 30 minute steep during water bath cooling before counter current cooling Spices, all boiled 7 minutes plus above steep: 3.2 oz peeled fresh ginger, pureed 1 oz. freshly ground coriander 5 g. freshly ground cardamom 3 g. freshly ground grain of paradise Yeast: YeastLab W52 Wit (Bruges), sediment from 1 liter starter Mash: 30 minutes each at 50, 60 and 70^C, mashout at 76^C. Fermented at 69^F ambient, 71^F beer temp (this yeast gets sleepy below ~65^F) 12 days, racked to secondary for 4 days, bottled with 7.4 oz. dextrose. Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1789, 07/24/95