HOMEBREW Digest #1816 Mon 28 August 1995

Digest #1815 Digest #1817

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  digest/thermometers ("Bummer, Paul")
  Summary of Thermometer responses (Dave Draper)
  1 1/2" false bottom (MATTD)
  A Chilling Night At The Speedway ("Pat Babcock")
  Kolsch! ("Richard Scotty")
  Re:  Harvested Yeast "Shelf Life" (Eric Palmer)
  Style Descriptions (Eric Palmer)
  RTP Yeast (Rolland Everitt)
  Converting Kegs ("Richard J. Smith")
  Re: Chilling (TomF775202)
  pump info. request (Rich Lenihan)
  esters, phenols, etc. (Eric Palmer)
  Schlitz poster (Hadley Killough )
  Hunter Mod & R Gardner (Kyle R Roberson)
  re: AA Determination (Glenn Tinseth)
  fermentation temperature and other first-brew questions ("Alex R.N. Wetmore")
  Burner conversion (Robert Brown)
  Sparging Techniques (Nir Navot)
  Heaters and coolers (Ulick Stafford)
  questions (Edwardine J Lambert)
  counter pressure bottling foam ("Sharon A. Ritter")
  opaque hefeweizen (Mark T)
  My thermometer is fixed! / Mt Hood hops (Dave Draper)
  Aeration / Temps / Free Refrigerator (XDCHRISTIAN)
  Separated thermometer column (Philip Gravel)
  Burner conversion (Philip Gravel)
  All-Wheat Beer Response (Nicholas A. Franke)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Aug 95 08:00:21 EST From: "Bummer, Paul" <bummerp at uklans.uky.edu> Subject: digest/thermometers 1. I think that Rob Gardner is owed a harty thanks from all of us for his tireless efforts to manage this digest. I raise my mug and give him a toast! 2. Dave Draper asked about spearated thermometers. a. There is a compression of the alcohol vapor in the gap between the two regions of liquid. This would make for inaccurate temperature extrapolations in an otherwise highly accurate device. If the gap is small, the temperature error by adding the readings of the two parts of the column and subtracting out the "contribution" of the gap is probably small and within brewing tolerances. b. Dave mentioned about putting the device in boiling water to attempt to re-establish a continuous column. I would try rather to put the thermometer in the freezer to contract the column of fluid back into the bulb. It may be best to attempt tokeep the device in the vertical position in the freezer. Then, remove from the freezer and return back to room temperature. The fluid should re-enter the column in a continuous fashion. Note: Do not try to hasten the movement back up the tube by heating the device directly out of the freezer. One of my students tried that once with a mercury thermometer and we spent an afternoon chasing mercury balls all around the laboratory. Paul M. Bummer, Ph.D. College of Pharmacy University of Kentucky Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 09:02:43 +1000 From: david.draper at mq.edu.au (Dave Draper) Subject: Summary of Thermometer responses Dear Friends, maybe it's because there were only a couple posts in #1814, the first post-apocalyptic HBD, but I had 17 responses (!!!) to my query about my ailing thermometer. Thank you very much, all--please forgive me that I do not thank you by individual email. The strong consensus is that my intuition, that the main mass of liquid would not be affected by the presence of absence of something elswhere in the column, is wrong. Instead, the real temperature is going to be something else, and it even appears that it may be wildly off. This is because the rates of thermal expansion of the large air bubble in my 'meter and of the liquid itself may be quite different. So if this happens to you, something must be done--you can't just ignore it. The recommended solutions: either heat or cool the thing until all the liquid rejoins, or centrifuge (either manually, tied to a string and whirling around your head--what a spectacle!--or with the usual machine). I am going to try the cooling approach first, because it seems safer, and the reservoir on the top of my 'meter is encased in a softish plastic, so I can't observe what might happen during heating. My thermometer is in the freezer as I type, but so far no joy--there is still a huge gap. Next cooling step is a ice bath with either salt water or alcohol. Will try both as necessary. If these don't work, I will try the heating approach next (don't have access to a large enough centrifuge); in any event, I'll report back on the outcome. Thanks again to all, Dave in Sydney "Cross your fingers and wait it out." ---A. J. deLange - --- *************************************************************************** David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia Email: david.draper at mq.edu.au Home page: http://www.ocs.mq.edu.au/~ddraper ...I'm not from here, I just live here... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 09:23:20 -0600 (MDT) From: MATTD at UWYO.EDU Subject: 1 1/2" false bottom I've got a 21 gallon stainless steel pot that is 23" in diameter with a hole on the bottom near the edge with a 3" threaded pipe welded to it. I've already got a ball valve and the necessary reducer but I was wondering about a false bottom. If I insert a sink strainer (with some grinding to make it smaller) into the 1 1/2" hole on the bottom will I get a decent extraction efficiency or should I go to a larger false bottom that just sits over the hole? Thanks for any advice you can give. Private e-mail is fine. Matt Dickey Mattd at uwyo.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 23:37:40 +0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: A Chilling Night At The Speedway This was rejected by the line length bot (and we thought he died with hpfcmi... This kinda invalidates the 'Hope this generates an issue of the HBD", but thought the article might still be of interest... Last Sunday, I ran a trial pitting a 20' x 3/8" x 3/4" counter-flow chiller (CF) against a 50' x 1/2" immersion chiller (IM). In the hopes that it generates an issue of the HBD (withdrawal pains!), I'm sharing the results with the world... Trial Description: Prior to beginning this trial , all thermometers were calibrated using the crushed-ice-in-water method. The calibrated thermometers were then used to verify correlation of the temperature read water directly in the hot liquor to the temperature read in the temperature well. The thermometers agreed within their accuracy. This was done with separate thermometers as well as with singular thermometers to negate method of temperature measurement as a perturbation to this experiment. Two 'identical'* five gallon batches of nutbrown ale were prepared from extract, each in its own kettle. The immersion chiller was dropped in the pot and the counter flow was set to recirculate boiling wort during the final 15 minutes of the boil (sanitation). * Counterflow batch suffered a boil-over. Less than a pint was lost. Water was 'Y'ed from a single source. Water input temperature was measured to be 57 F. This measurement was repeated several times prior to running the chillers to ensure its stability. At flame out, the temperature of at each kettle was recorded, and the temperature of the input water was reverified. Water flow was started at each chiller by means of a single valve. The counterflow was initially set to return wort to the brew kettle in order to cool its coils following the boiling wort sanitation recirc. As soon as the water outflow from the counter flow chiller was cool to the touch, (this time was roughly 30 seconds) the aeration cane assembly was a ttached and affixed to the waiting fermenter. Flow through the aeration cane was slowed to provide maximum air draw. (Slow fill rate.) The immersion chiller immediately began chilling wort. The kettle pump was set to gently recirculate wort over the coils under the liquid level, and the wort was stirred regularly. The kettle remained covered most of the time to avoid the introduction of airborne contaminants. Samples for temperature checks taken in a heavy plastic 'beaker-on-a-stick'. Temperature readings were taken quickly to avoid heat loss or gain at surface (beaker thickness insulates side and bottom). Temperature/SG samples were not aerated. Note: To keep the flow rate of water through the immersion chiller constant, water continued to run through the counterflow chiller after it had completed chilling of its batch. DATA: Temperature Corrected OG: CF: 1.043 IM: 1.038 Expected: 6.16lbs x 40 / 5 gal = 1.04928 (Brewer's Workshop predicted 1.044) Boil Volume: 7gal Final Volume: 5 gal Time Batch Water Input CF Water Out mins CF Immersion Temp *F Temp *F 0 212 212 57 57 3 68 180 57 68 12 68 90 57 68 18 68 80 57 68 24 68 75 57 68 29 68 75 57 68 34 -- 74 57 57 35 -- 74 57 57 71 -- 74 57 57 (Did not measure outlet water temperature of IM. Would have been of interest, but was a little 'busy' as it was...) At t=35 minutes, immersion chilled batch showed no temperature change in 6 minutes. Transfer through aeration can was begun and two additional checks were made on the wort temp. 74F was read each time. The additional 36 minutes put the CF and IM chillers on "even footing" since wort was cooled and aerated upon completion with counterflow. The CF chiller was cleaned by circulating clean water through it. IM chiller required additional manual cleaning to clear break material from on and between the coils. Counterflow pumped break material directly to fermenter as a matter of course. Little was formed. Immersion chiller pumped 1.25 inches of break material into fermenter. Break material clogged 50% of the aeration holes and developed back-pressure at outlet resulting in a wort sprinkler. Final fill was done without aeration. (Not a concern if you do not have a central siphon. Or brew in the dark. =) Immersion-chilled sample at high kraeusen within 11 hours. Counter flow-chilled sample in active ferment; not yet at high kraeusen. (Same type/brand and quantity of yeast pitched in each: 2 sachets pitched dry; CF-chilled sample pitched 30 minutes prior to immersion-chilled sample.) Both fermenting strong at 20.5 hours. Very turbid. Large solids (cold break) apparent in currents set up by fermentation. By 25 hours, kraeusen begins to subside. Blow-off tubes clear of foam. Approximately 1/2 gallon of beer in blow off jar. (Typical for recipe.) Particulars: Immersion chiller design: 50' - 1/2" ID copper tubing. Cooling water enters coil at the top; exits at bottom. Home-made. Counter flow chiller design: 20' - 3/8" ID copper tubing inside 3/4" ID flexible PVC hose (Qest). Wort flow counters water flow. Home-made. Brewing system: 1/2 barrel kettles ala pico brewing systems. Fired by Kajun Cookers (Rocket Tubes). March Pumps. Drilled racking cane through orange carboy cap (aeration system). Special thanks to The Fermental Order Of Renaissance Draughtsmen (F.O.R.D.) brew club for both inspiring the trial, and for inviting me to present it at the August meeting. And kudos to Spencer Thomas of the Ann Arbor Brewers' Guild (A.A.B.G.) who should soon be reporting a more in-depth analysis to this august community... Comments, corrections, and suggestions welcome! No flames, though - those Cajun Cookers are hot enough! "Drink all you want - I'll brew more!" Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | "Yup, Kit's (Anderson) a brewer... President, Brew-Master | What he isn't is a woman." - Dan Hall and Chief Taste-Tester | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point Drinkur Purdee pico Brewery | at the end of your day as every sentence pbabcock at oeonline.com | requires proper punctuation." -PGB SYSOP on The HomeBrew University - Motor City Campus BBS (313)397-9758 Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Aug 1995 08:16:17 -0700 From: "Richard Scotty" <richard_scotty at msmgate.mrg.uswest.com> Subject: Kolsch! While in New Mexico, I visited several Micros. At a place called Assets in Albuquerque (no affiliation) I had their Kolsch. This was a truly impressive ale, but I have nothing to compare it to as far as its trueness to style. Does anyone know of a generally available Kolsch that is indicative of the style? I'd like to attempt to brew a Kolsch - I've seen that Wyeast has a Kolsch culture available. If you have experience with this style, I'd like gather information about grain bills, etc. Private e-mail is fine and I'll post a summary if general interest is shown. BTW, Assets has fine beers and great food. I highly recommend it if you're ever in Albuquerque. TIA, Rich Scotty (to the tune of "Money For Nothing" - I want my, I want my, I want my HBD...) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 95 22:55:34 PDT From: palmer at San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Eric Palmer) Subject: Re: Harvested Yeast "Shelf Life" In HBD #1813, Tim Membrino (membrino at nadc.nadc.navy.mil) writes: "What's the expiration date for my yeast?" Since I've only just sampled the 1st bottle of my 3rd batch, I'm no expert either but just having returned from a week under the pines on the west shore of Lake Tahoe where, among other things,I spent some time with my feet up on a picnic bench, a not-so-amber* pale ale in hand, reading the yeast.faq: YEAST INFORMATION AND TECHNIQUE RESOURCE May 26, 1994 Edited, compiled, annotated and introduced by Patrick Weix <weix at netcom.com> and, a mighty thesis it is. If it's not covered here, it doesn't need to be known. According to Mr. Weix, the shelf life of home cultured yeast is 3-4 months. Suggest anyone interested in this branch of home brewing locate and read this rather lengthy treatise. If for no other reason, its excellent synopsis of approximately 417 million commericial yeasts with their characteristics and, in come cases, who uses what. For example, I learned that Sierra Nevada uses Wyeast 1056 aka American/Chico Ale Yeast. Don't have Netscape up at the moment and don't remember the path, but the FAQs can be located via the Beer Page at http://www.umich.edu/~spencer/beer/ Eric *but that's another story for another HBD edition. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 95 23:02:45 PDT From: palmer at San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Eric Palmer) Subject: Style Descriptions In HBD #1813, Mark Montminy <markm at dev.cdx.mot.com> inquires about how to learn about different styles. Get a copy of Zymergy* Vol. 14. No. 4, Special 1991 (every year there is a "special topic" edition). It has an outstanding review of over 60 styles written by experts in the given style. Included are commercial examples where available. It's perfect "starter information". My copy is seriously "dog eared". Back issues are often available at your local brew shop. Or, try calling (303) 447-0816 to order one with your Visa card. *Published 5 times per year by American Homebrewers Assoc. Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 07:51:43 -0400 From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt) Subject: RTP Yeast Jim Grady asked about RTP (Ready to Pitch) liquid yeast. I have very little basis for comparison, but I used RTP London Ale yeast in my first batch and got a vigorous fermentation. All I had to do was take the vial out of the fridge and shake it up a bit and pitch it. No complaints Return to table of contents
Date: 26 Aug 95 07:55:50 EDT From: "Richard J. Smith" <72154.516 at compuserve.com> Subject: Converting Kegs Larry asks in HB1812: >I have recently come across two kegs that I would like to convert to start >to build a tier system for the eventual plunge into all grain brewing. I am >concerned as to whether they are SS or not... If you have Coor's Kegs, slightly wider in the middle than top or bottom, then yes, they are stainless steel. I have 2 with welded coupling's in them and they work great. I think it says "stainless steel" somewhere on the keg; look hard. It may have been on the top before I cut it out and threw it away or on the bottom/side now rubbed off from all the polishing I did, or blasted off by my popane burner. The steel on these is slightly thicker than on the Budweiser half barrel kegs. I use the Coors kegs for Boiler and Hot water Tank. BTW I found them in a metal scrap yard; never had as much fun wallowing through piles of stainless steel. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 12:29:32 -0400 From: TomF775202 at aol.com Subject: Re: Chilling Lots of talk on chilling lately. Check out my article about chillers in Brew Your Own Magazine. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 14:06:59 -0400 From: rich at lenihan.iii.net (Rich Lenihan) Subject: pump info. request A while back I requested recommendations for propane burners. Well, I had such good success with that (25 replies) that I'm going to try my luck again. I need a high-temp pump to complete my brewing system. It doesn't have to be self-priming (although that would be nice) but it should have enough force to move hot water and/or wort to a height of 8 feet. It should also be food-grade as well as easy to clean and operate. Finally, it should introduce little or no air into the liquid being moved. I've heard about the March pumps, but I don't have specific model #'s. Any other pumps that fall into a home-brewer's budget would be acceptable as well. I would also appreciate any tips you might have regarding set-up, tubing, connectors, etc. Please reply via email. As usual, I will summarize and re-post if there's any interest. Thanks... -Rich rich at lenihan.iii.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 95 12:31:07 PDT From: palmer at San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Eric Palmer) Subject: esters, phenols, etc. With all this talk about pitching and fermentation temps. and associated production of nasty esters and phenols, can someone please fill me in on what they taste like and why they are "bad", except in Belgin ales in which case they are "good". Guess I'll know them when I see them, but so far (only 2 batches), I haven't seen any (knock, knock). Did have a Chimay the other day so I guess I encountered some there but wasn't sure what I was looking for. Thanks, Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 13:55:00 -0700 From: hwkillo at ix.netcom.com (Hadley Killough ) Subject: Schlitz poster Quick question, Does anyone know how to get a poster of the World War II bomber that graces Schlitz cases? I really do hate Schlitz beer, however I love beer memorabilia and would love to get a copy of this poster for my small collection - Thanks in advance! - Lee Killough Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 16:27:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Kyle R Roberson <roberson at beta.tricity.wsu.edu> Subject: Hunter Mod & R Gardner Second try... Apologies to Richard Gardner who wrote to me to ask for the Hunter Airstat modification(temp-shift). I don't have it on-line and my mailer messed up my reply to him and overwrote his address field. Maybe someone would like to post the appropriate reference or repost the ascii schematic? Kyle Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 16:54:36 -0700 From: gtinseth at teleport.com (Glenn Tinseth) Subject: re: AA Determination Some of the ASBC methods are available from the Hop Page: <http://www.teleport.com/~gtinseth/> or by anonymous ftp: <ftp://ftp.teleport.com/pub/users/gtinseth/BrewCalc/> Glenn Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 22:40:32 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alex R.N. Wetmore" <alexw+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: fermentation temperature and other first-brew questions A friend and I are about to brew our first batch of beer and are worried about our fermentation temperature. The apartment where we are brewing this beer is typically in the lower to mid 80's (because it has no air conditioning or a cellar that we can use). Is there a good way to keep the temperature of the fermenting beer closer to the lower 70's that the yeast will enjoy? Also, another question. For our first beer we are using a kit Porter made by "Brewer's Best". It looks pretty good compared to some of the recipies that we've seen on the net, but we aren't sure what types of hops it comes with. They just label the hops as "boiling" and "finishing", but we would like to know exactly what types of hops are being used here. Does anyone know the varities that come with these kits? It would be helpful for us in keeping notes. On the finishing hops it is labelled "F" (possibly Fuggles?) and on boiling hops it is labelled MB or NB (possibly Northern Brewers?). It came with 1oz of boiling hops and 1/2 oz of finishing hops. The 1oz of boiling hops seems a little low to us for a porter. Similarily the strain of yeast is not labelled. Does anyone know what these kits come with? It is just labelled as "Muntons Active Brewing Yeast" and says "Ideal for Ales" next to the name. Its in a small green bag. thanks alex Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 00:31:45 -0400 (EDT) From: Robert Brown <rbrown00 at uoguelph.ca> Subject: Burner conversion Brian Pickerell asked about conversion from Nat. gas to propane. From what I understand (haven't done it yet) the difference between the 2 gases, other than their actual makeup, is the pressure at which they are supplied at. The natural gas is supplied (local utility) at a lower pressure than propane from your BBQ tank and regulator. The different gas pressures require different diameter orifices. That's the hole that the gas exits the gas line and mixes with the air, not the multitude of holes (burner ports) that you would find in a ring/star/tube burners business end. The diameter of the orifice effects the turbulence of the gas and how well it mixes with the air. If you contact your local natural/propane gas dealer/fitter they will have a handy chart that will have the correct diameter. They can probably sell you a new orifice (little screw thingy with hole in middle) or you could solder and redrill the old one to the specified size. I think you need a smaller hole for propane but having said that without checking first I am probably wrong. Brian also asked about mixing the gas with air for combustion. My understanding of this (someone please tell me if I've gone past my limited knowledge) as would be seen in a Burner at home or for beer making is this. Some burners etc are enclosed and utilize a venturi(bernoulli if you prefer) effect to draw the air through an adjustable shutter and into a mixing chamber/tube. Many look like this: GV s\ This tube burner (easier to draw) I s \____________________________ could have a ring, star, or "bowl" _I____s I burner port configuration I O mixing tube o o o o o o o I s=shutter valve -I----s ____________________________I GV= gas valve s / O=orifice s/ burner ports Other burners are simpler and the gas mixes freely in open air (turbulence) and the air gas mix is then contained/directed. My HW burner and simple jet type burners(I believe this is what everyone is referring to) are of this design: ______ / / /_____/\ Adj. Flame diffuser //----------\\ \ (steel plate that swings) //--------------\\ I I I // gas diffusion \\ I I I "plate" I I I I I gas/air directional I I chamber (tube) I I gas/air mixing O - -----------I-O-I ------------------I I-\ gas line I Orifice is a hole drilled gas line \- - -----------I---I in gas tubing cap ----------------------/ "jet burner" (without stand) Hot Water tank burner that I saw at a U.S. home depot Above are my interpretations of "open air" gas mixing burners. Making a jet burner (or whatever it's called) with the proper orifice, tube, gas mixing space, and flame diffuser dimensions, should be easy enough. Anyone with this type of burner willing to supply the dimensions? Any gas fitters/engineers with an actual working knowledge are urged to correct me or supply the correct terms. Also, who actually makes the cast iron ring burners used in the various brands of stands? An actual burner could be easily mounted in an inexpensive (home made) stand, Anyone? Hoping for flames (figuratively), Rob Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 10:20:15 +0200 From: diagen at netvision.net.il (Nir Navot) Subject: Sparging Techniques A short poll regarding sparging techniques. When you Sparge do you: 1. First drain all the wort from the mash tun and then sparge or 2. You sparge as you drain, maintaining the level of the sparge water above the grain. I'm trying to decide which method is better, and how each of them affects the outcoming wort/beer and would appreciate receiving your comments. I'll post a summary ... Many thanks, Nir Navot Rosh Ha'ayin, Israel "WeBrew in HeBrew" Return to table of contents
From: ulick at chemcon.internet-eireann.ie id m0smWRb-0006TRC; Sun, 27 Aug 95 02:23 BST Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 02:23:24 +0100 From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at chemcon.internet-eireann.ie> Subject: Heaters and coolers To: Posting Address Only - No Requests <homebrew at hpfcmgw> In-Reply-To: <199508260700.AA033370408 at hpfcmgw> Message-Id: <Pine.3.89.9508270248.A106-0100000 at chemcon.internet-eireann.ie> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Robert Brown referred to a burner modification and alluded to using a gas water heater. This is exactly what I used in the US. I hauled an old water heater that had been dumped in the alley into my basement, stripped out the burner, thermostat, pilot light, regulator etc. from the bottom. I connected this with a 4 or 6 foot black pipe nipple to the natural gas supply going to the dryer, and sat the burner in the lap of a metal table stand I found dumped for garbage as well. Worked great in the basement, although I always stuck a window fan in the window to extract the water from the burn and the boil. Regarding thermostats (all the trouble with Hunter zeners), if you are in any way handy, a wonderful dumb (read non-electronic :-) alternative is what I did (and brought back to Ireland with). I used a regular (24V) house thermostat for heating and AC. I wired the sucker through a cheap 9V transformer and a relay (purchased at Radio Shack) to switch on the freezer. I mounted it on a piece of plywood that I stood on the freezer floor tilted one sixteenth to one side so that 50 meant 40 etc. (the device is based on a simple mercury trip switch on a wire spring that expands with heat). It works wonderfully and there is no problem with excesive cycling or anything. I may publish more complete details if there is interest. _____________________________________________________________________________ 'There was a master come unto the earth, | Dr. Ulick Stafford, born in the holy land of Indiana, | Wexford Brewing Company, in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.| Ballyhurst, Taghmon, Co. Wexford http://www.nd.edu:80/~ulick/ | ulick at chemcon.internet-eireann.ie Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 11:03:57 -0400 (EDT) From: Edwardine J Lambert <elambert at osf1.gmu.edu> Subject: questions I am in the process of brewing my first batch of brew. I followed the advice of bomebrew sages and bought a homebrew kit. I am using True Brew Pilsner All Malt. The process has gone fine with two exceptions. First, I forgot to add the Hop Pellets. Secondly, the temperture of the room were the fermentation is taking place is aroud 72 degrees and not 60 to 70 degree rang called for in the recipe. I would greatly appreciate any help I can get reguarding these two issues Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Aug 95 12:27:02 EDT From: "Sharon A. Ritter" <102446.3717 at compuserve.com> Subject: counter pressure bottling foam I need some expert help here! I just finished spraying pale ale around my basement in my first attempt at counterpressure bottling. I'm using the Braukunst N-1 system. I followed directions to a "T". My beer was at 34 degrees, CO2 pressure at 10 psi (the beer itself was carbonated at about 7-8 psi), bottles at 35 degrees.. I tried all combinations of filling speeds, pressure variations (between 9-13 psi), chants, screams, and shooting beer patterns. The best I could do was an air space of 1 1/2 inches and most were in the 2-3 inch range. Not acceptable! The best technique I could muster was to slowly let the foam rise up and out of the pressure release valve (into a big tub) until actual beer reached the top. But I still ended up with residual foaming from the bottom causing the large head space. Does it make any difference how close the end of the filler tube is to the bottom of the bottle? Any hints out there on 1) how to waste less beer (I probably threw out 3-4 bottles worth in foam over waste), 2) how to improve the air space (less foaming)? Dan Ritter 102446.3717 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 95 12:30 PDT From: markt at ieway.com (Mark T) Subject: opaque hefeweizen I have a question related to the recent posting (HBD 1815) from C. Perilloux: In the Pacific NW, a popular brew is Widmer Hefeweizen. It's served on tap, and always has a characteristic opacity. I'm told that the kegs receive no special treatment such as periodic shaking, yet the beer is consistently uniform in appearance. I'd like to emulate this brew, but in my efforts (using barley/wheat extract) the beer starts out very cloudy, from the bottom of the keg, then clears. What keeps their yeast in suspension? I made one batch in which fresh apricots were added at the end of the boil; the pectin seemed to provide the same type opacity. Does Widmer do something to keep yeast/protein in suspension? Would an all grain barley/wheat mixture be different? Thanks for your thoughts. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 07:04:43 +1000 From: david.draper at mq.edu.au (Dave Draper) Subject: My thermometer is fixed! / Mt Hood hops Dear Friends, I'm sure you are all breathlessly awaiting the news...my thermometer no longer suffers from separation anxiety. Turns out that the gap I had (which was about 50 deg C, larger than I posted originally) was too big to eliminate with either my regular freezer or a salt - ice bath. So I went the other way and heated the bulb by waving it in the general vicinity of a (lit) candle. Worked like a charm. Thanks again to all the respondents -- there were 21 all told, truly amazing. Thanks too to those who commented on using Mt Hood hops--most of the info I got was also posted here, so I'll just briefly recap the responses: yes, their aroma qualities are quite subtle, you need to use a LOT of them, and the fresher the better; flowers if you can get them. Even 40 g of pellets at T-5 min were not enough. Cheers, Dave in Sydney "We [HBDers] are like the Borg" ---Chris Geden - --- *************************************************************************** David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia Email: david.draper at mq.edu.au Home page: http://www.ocs.mq.edu.au/~ddraper ...I'm not from here, I just live here... Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 17:25:42 -0800 (PST) From: XDCHRISTIAN at CCVAX.FULLERTON.EDU Subject: Aeration / Temps / Free Refrigerator Hi all, A few questions and a refrigerator for free in Orange County CA Aerating in the Kettle or the Carboy? ****************************************************************** A few digests back someone mentioned the idea that wiggling the chiller in the kettle would possibly help proteins clump together assisting in hot/cold break formation. I would like to know if there is a benefit in dropping an air stone into the kettle (after the wort gets around 80F to encourage the proteins to drop out of solution and aerate the wort at the same time. I like this idea because it would eliminate the need to aerate in 2 carboys and end up with clear wort. There was a concern about stirring up the trub in the kettle. If a brewer is using whole hops and an Easy Masher (tm), would stirring up the trub with air be a concern? Or will the hops keep the wort running clear? Starter Info ****************************************************************** There has been some information presented lately on the effects of fermentation temperatures and how high temps can negatively effect the final product. Should we be as concerned about the temperatures and aeration of our starters? Most references I've seen (heard) recommend making a starter solution, aerate, and inoculate with a yeast culture at "room temp". Room temp is not clear to me. Is "room temp" to 65, 70, 80...? Shouldn't starters be fermented out at the expected fermentation temp for the batch of beer that it is going to be pitched into? Or are the esters, phenols, and the other kinds of high temperature by-products not going to be noticeable in the finished beer? Also I'd like to know if we want to aerate the wort that is going to be stepping up the starter or aerate the whole starter after adding the wort? Free Refrigerator ******************************************************************************** Recently, I bought a chest type freezer so I could brew more and have more beer on hand. In the spirit of good home brewing, I would like to help someone out who needs a refrigerator. The refrigerator that I was using is old but works. It is a full size refrigerator with a freezer on top. If there is anyone in the Orange County, CA area who would like to have it, I would be happy to give it to you. Perhaps you would like to trade me a 6er of some of your irresistible home brew for it. If you are interested, call me (714) 638-3201. Keith Being blind doesn't bum me out... Being with out home brew does! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 95 21:02 CDT From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel) Subject: Separated thermometer column ===> Dave Draper asks about a separated thermometer column: >Thermometer: Awhile back a section of the red-colored alcohol (is that what >it is?) in my mashing thermometer (10-100C markings but has space to reach >probably 130 or so, about 30 cm long) somehow detached from the main mass, >and now sits about 30 or 40C above the rest--there is an air bubble between >the main mass and this small bit, which has a length equivalent to about 2 >deg. C. The small section moves up and down, keeping the same distance from >the top of the main mass. I have tried a couple of times to get it back by >putting the thermometer in boiling water but it still stays away. The way to fix the thermometer with a separated column is to heat it so that the liquid (alcohol) goes into the bubble at the top or cool it enough that the liquid withdraws to the bulb. When I was in the lab, this was easily done using a dry ice/acetone bath or liquid nitrogen. What I'd do if I were you is put some cooking oil in a small sauce pan. Heat it gently until it reaches a temperature that pushes the thermometer liquid all the way into the bubble at the top of the thermometer. Tap the top of the thermometer gently and then let it cool. The liquid column should withdraw from the bubble as a single entity and now be unbroken. >Do I have to add the couple of deg. represented by this small length to >the temperature indicated by the top of the main mass in order to get the >correct temperature--i.e., is it an additive thing? Or do I ignore that >little bit and just read the top of the main mass as the real temperature? I never trusted a thermometer with a separated column. Either I fixed it as described above or threw the thermometer away. - -- Phil _____________________________________________________________ Philip Gravel Lisle, Illinois pgravel at mcs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 95 21:30 CDT From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel) Subject: Burner conversion ===> Brian Pickerill asks about natural gas to propane conversion: >I've read several times that people have "converted" nat. gas to propane, but >never any info about how this is done. Is there really no conversion, just >a matter of hooking it up, does the propane need to be mixed with air somehow >prior to the ignition point (as in my propane grill), or what? You need to change the jet in the burner. A good plumbing or furnace/ heating supply house should have them. - -- Phil _____________________________________________________________ Philip Gravel Lisle, Illinois pgravel at mcs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 95 22:53:15 PDT From: NAFRANK at pop03.ca.us.ibm.net (Nicholas A. Franke) Subject: All-Wheat Beer Response In HBD #1815 (August 26), Bill Bunning questioned whether wheat malt had the diastatic power to permit a wheat beer to be made from a 100% wheat grist. In my opinion, a 100% wheat grist can be used. In June I made a hefeweizen with the following grain bill: 7.25# German Wheat Malt 2.5 # Canadian Wheat Malt .75# German Caramel Malt (10L) 1 # Wheat Flakes 4 qts. Rice Hulls I used a single decoction mash. The sparge yielded 7.25 gals. of wort at S.G. 1.042. I believe that had barley malt been added to the grain bill of this beer that the extract yield would have been higher. In my opinion, extract yield suffers as the percentage of wheat in the grist increases. I have no specific data to back up these assumptions, but base them only on general observation. I am now a firm believer in using 100% wheat in the hefeweizen grist, though. Out of several weizens I have made with the same yeast and general procedure, this one is by far the best and most closely resembles a German hefeweizen. NAF. nafrank at ibm.net Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1816, 08/28/95