HOMEBREW Digest #1850 Fri 06 October 1995
Digest #1849
Digest #1851
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Re: Brewferm Kits - Experiences? (Jack Stafford)
decoction mashing/60C rests (Algis R Korzonas)
Re: mail order Gott cooler/ Old Ale. ("Michael D. Fairbrother")
RE: Personalized Plates (prestons_pub)
Can inserts for "pub style" beer (Dr. David C. Harsh)
RE: Dry hopping (Art McGregor)
HOPS homebrew competition ? (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
Iodine (M.Marshburn/D202)
faucet attachment (PatrickM50)
Another One Bites The Dust ("Olson, Greger J - CIV/911-2")
The Scum Also Rises (MAURAPAT)
Re: Brewing and Kids (Spencer W Thomas)
RE: Canadian brown in competition (uswlsrap)
Re: Drug legalization/Holiday Cheer ("Edmund C. Hack")
Homebewers digest (LCDR Leo E Chiasson Jr)
re: Assembling lautering manifold (Neal Christensen)
Pumpkin Ale Recipes (AGNORCB)
Re: Scaling recipes (John Girard)
Two questions about sediment.... (Derrick Pohl)
Home casking Information? (Fred Ogline)
Thanks for the replies (Steve Madsen)
Alcohol & mortality: New study (Ken Willing)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 95 11:11:57 PDT
From: stafford at alcor.hac.com (Jack Stafford)
Subject: Re: Brewferm Kits - Experiences?
On Wed, 4 Oct 1995 Elde at aol.com asks:
>How are the Brewferm series of kits? Good? Bad? Tips on any individual
>kits?
I have only tried the cherry Kriek from BrewFerm. My first Kriek
came out a little watery and I followed the included directions to the
letter. One can of extract, 1lb corn sugar, 11 Liters of water and dry
ale yeast provided.
The second batch I used double the extract and sugar, but only used
19 Liters of water. This brew has a little more backbone and tastes
more like the Kriek from Belgium. I used 1C. of corn sugar for priming
and would not exceed that as the bottles are highly carbonated (like a
soda pop).
Jack stafford at alcor.hac.com
Costa Mesa, CA
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 95 13:39:38 CDT
From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas)
Subject: decoction mashing/60C rests
Well, I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm getting very bored
with this discussion of RIMS versus RDMS versus RRMS. Call it whatever
you want... I don't care anymore. As long as we all know what a poster
is referring to, then it doesn't matter what he/she calls it.
Onward. Keith writes:
>I think we all know a decoction mash and an infusion mash when we
>seen one, but we seem to not agree on what the defining points of
>each method are. Al seems to focus on the thickness of the
>runnings, where I, in my earlier post, was focusing on whether a
>portion of the liquid is drawn off (decocted) and reheated or not.
>Other posts reference dictionary definitions. So which one is it?
>I beleive that if we consider both the dictionary definition and
>the traditional brewers definition, we can more clearly define the
>difference between the two.
>
>DECOCTION: The formal definition simply means to draw off, but the
>brewers definition includes the boiling of the drawn liquid, and
>its reintroduction into the mash to raise the temperature.
It is incorrect to say that you decoct runnings in a decoction mash
(except for the final decoction). If you take only the liquid portion
of the mash and boil it, you are:
1. denaturing the enzymes (the enzymes are in the liquid of a mash), and
2. not increasing your extraction of starch from the steely tips of the
malt (assuming you are using undermodified malt -- but as I've posted
before, this is rather academic with current malts).
At this point, I don't care what dictionaries say, and I'm not going to
bother to look and see if you haven't conveniently omitted any definitions
that are contrary to your position. Look at what brewing books say. In a
decoction mash, you are supposed to take the thickest part of the mash for
the first one, two or three decoctions and the thinnest part (runnnings) for
the last decoction -- the one that takes you into mashout. The reason that
you take only the runnings (no grain) in the final decoction is because once
you add this final decoction back, you will have denatured all the enzymes
in the entire mash and will not have enzymes to convert any starch released
in the boiling of the final decoction.
Sorry about the decoction lesson, but decoction mashing is confusing enough
without mixing up the steps in which you use thickest and thinnest parts of
the mash. For more on decoction mashing (and simpler mashing techniques)
see the 1995 Special Issue of Zymurgy.
Now let's go on to other subjects, please?
Here's another subject:
Regan writes:
>My understanding is, to make a
>highly fermentable beer, a rest at 60 degrees should be part of the
>mash schedule. However, my understanding is that the starch in grain
>does not gelatinize until 65 deg, which suggests that the enzymes can't
>get at the goods.
No. The rest at 60C (140F) is at the very low end of the active range
of beta amylase and is at the high end of protease range. Since the
rate of enzymatic action is temperature-dependent, the rest at 60C
does very little saccharification (unless we are talking hours) and thus
is primarily for the action of protease. Protease breaks big proteins
into medium-sized proteins. So the 60C rest is a protein rest and
is not really much of a factor in the fermentability of the beer.
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korz at pubs.att.com
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Date: Thu, 05 Oct 1995 05:25:28 -0400
From: "Michael D. Fairbrother" <mdf at apollo.hp.com>
Subject: Re: mail order Gott cooler/ Old Ale.
FYI, Rubbermaid sells direct my Gott cost $51.62 shipped to my
door step.
There URL is http://home.rubbermaid.com/
Phone (216) 264-7592
Credit card purchases required for UPS delivery; Visa, MasterCard and
Discover accepted.
- ----
I attempted to make an Old Ale, and the TG is still quite high,
I have repitched once already, but then I put it into kegs and
ran some C02 over it. Is it too late to try and repitch again?
Here's what was used, 7 gallon batch:
11 pounds of Light DME
1 pound crystal malt (60 levibond)
1/4 pound dark malt
1.5 oz northern brewers hops
.5 oz cascade
1 teaspoon Iresh moss
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 1995 06:50:13 EDT
From: prestons_pub at e-mail.com
Subject: RE: Personalized Plates
THIS IS A CORRUPT DOCUMENT - FOLLOW RECORDS MANAGEMENT POLICY
Subject: RE: Personalized Plates
My '94 RED SHO Reads:
-----------
| |
| FERMNTL |
| |
-----------
I'm a homebrewer.
"FERMENTATION AND SEE YA.................MIKE
CIVILIZATION ARE PHONE (313)24-89512
INSEPARABLE." FAX (313)32-21253
E-MAIL USFMC6TM at IBMMAIL.COM
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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 08:19:19 -0400
From: dharsh at alpha.che.uc.edu (Dr. David C. Harsh)
Subject: Can inserts for "pub style" beer
Greetings to the collective-
One of my associates has brought several cans of beer from England
from a recent trip. Cans with inserts (i.e. Guiness) apparently account
for almost half of the sales of can beer in England. After drinking the
beers, he's been cutting the cans open and finding an amazing variety of
widgets inside. Few are a simple as the Guiness insert - some are so
complex you can't believe that the person who designed them was actually
serious!
Is there an information source about these gadgets anywhere? I
realize these don't exactly have application for homebrewers, but would
appreciate a point in the right direction - patent, trade journal blurb,
anything...
TIA
Dave
**************************************************************************
* Dave Harsh *
* Newsletter Editor for the Bloatarian Brewing League *
* *
* "Ad hoc, ad loc and quid pro quo, so little time, so much to know" *
**************************************************************************
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Date: Thu, 05 Oct 1995 08:30:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Art McGregor <mcgregap at acq.osd.mil>
Subject: RE: Dry hopping
Hi All!
Charles asked in HBD #1847 about dry hopping. I use a _nylon_ hop bag
that has a draw string sewn into the top of the bag. I use pellets, and the
bag keeps most of the hops out of the final beer, but not the hop nose :^).
It used to be a real pain to get the hop bag out of the carboy before
transferring to the bottling bucket. Then I tied a length of dental floss
(unflavored, unwaxed) to the end of the draw string, and now have no problem
pulling the bag of hops out. I just tie the hop bag closed, and push it into
the carboy, where the bag sinks under the liquid, and leave part of the dental
floss hanging out of the neck. The fermentation lock and stopper easily seal
the opening from the outside, and keeps the dental floss from falling into the
carboy. To remove, just grab the dental floss and pull the bag out. I
permanently leave the dental floss tied to the hop bag, and sanitize
everything before using. I Hope this helps :^)
Art McGregor (mcgregap at acq.osd.mil) Northern Virginia, USA
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 08:34 EDT
From: CSS2 at OAS.PSU.EDU (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
Subject: HOPS homebrew competition ?
Could someone who knows a little more about the HOPS (Homebrewers of
Philadelphia & Suburbs) Homebrew competition drop me a note with some info.
Specifically< I'd like to know:
*When is it? (Some time in November, I think)
*Where is it?
*Where are the drop off points? (Home Sweet Homebrew is one, I think)
*When is the drop off deadline?(a week before?)
*Where to get entry forms, etc.???
Thanks
Curt
css2 at oas.psu.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: 5 Oct 95 7:54:17 EST
From: M.Marshburn/D202 at cgsmtp.uscg.mil
Subject: Iodine
Homebrewers
I just got started kegging (two in the fridge). Question about idoine: I
live in a rural area with a lot of dairies. The local hardware store has an
iodine solution for wounds that is 7% iodine, 5%(iodine something) and 88%
alcohol. Can I use this mixture to sanitize my kegs and associated hardware
as long as I rinse well with hot water. If so how would I determine what the
ratio would be if I'm shooting for 12-14PPM. I used a heavy bleach solution
for the first two, which I understand is not recommended for SS, with only a
10 min contact time and lots of hot water rinse. The beer is fine a great
ESB.
Thanks
Mike M : M.Marshburn/D202 at cgsmtp.uscg.mil
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 09:39:11 -0400
From: PatrickM50 at aol.com
Subject: faucet attachment
Dave Rodger complains that his apartment has an old kitchen sink faucet that
is brewing impaired. Try this: get an old fashioned hand held shower hose
from your local drug store. Less than $5. At one end will be the shower
head and the other end will have a rubber coupling that is intended to fit
over a bath or kitchen sink faucet. Pull off the shower head (useful for
sparging, BTW) and attach the now free end to your wort chiller. Slip the
coupling over the faucet and you are in business. Don't turn on too much
water pressure though or the coupling might slip off. It worked for me when
I used to brew in the kitchen.
Pat Maloney, Rohnert Park, CA (patrickm50 at aol.com)
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Date: Thu, 05 Oct 95 06:57:00 PDT
From: "Olson, Greger J - CIV/911-2" <gjolson at bpa.gov>
Subject: Another One Bites The Dust
For what its worth, another local (Pacific Northwest) Micro has sold out.
Bridgeport (Blue Heron Ale, etc.) has been sold to a Texas company which
specializes in selling, not making beer. The Ponzi's (previous owners) said
that they were not into marketing, which is what the new owners (who brought
you the Corona Gold ad campaign) are good at. Hopefully they will not alter
the product when they try to "grow" the brand.
[Insert clever signature line here :-) Portland, OR]
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 10:37:37 -0400
From: MAURAPAT at aol.com
Subject: The Scum Also Rises
These two items were sent to me by my friend Clay Irving at the New York City
Beer Guide. As if we all needed another reason to hate AB. We could
threaten to boycott their beer, but that's an empty threat since none of us
would touch an AB product with a ten foot pole. We're trying to organize a
letter writing campaign making our opinion known, it probably won't do much
good, but it's worth being heard.
The address is:
Anheuser-Busch
Attn: Office of the President
1127 Pestalozzi
St. Louis, MO 63118
Here's hoping our efforts can help
Beer is our bond
Patrick Higgins and Maura Kilgore
********************************************
I picked this up from the Real Beer Page mailing list -- One more
reason to dislike Bud...
Bud Swings Ax At Budding Nation: Editorial Column
- -------------------------------------------------
You may call it a matter of business, but we call it nastiness. If
you're still drinking Bud, perhaps you'll join us in a boycott to
send the same message to them that they gave to the good people of the
Czech Republic. In last month's RBPMail we spoke of Anheuser-Busch's
thwarted plans to buy Budvar, the small Czech brewery also using the
Budweiser name. The conspicuous reasons were to open the way to
marketing the U.S. brand in Europe, probably by dismantling and
destroying the older brewery. The Czech government decided it was in
their best national interest to preserve the cultural integrity and
historical property of their brewery. In a malicious adolescent tantrum,
A-B has canceled all purchases of the Saaz hops from the budding
democracy, presumable indefinitely. Although you'll be hard pressed
to find hops in any single A-B beer, their products represent 4 of
every 10 beers consumed in America, and therefore employ an enormous
amount of hops overall. The move will deeply hurt the poorest people
in the Czech Hops food chain - peasants, small farmers, dock workers,
etc. Is this how we in the beer community want to be known around the
world? Shame on Bud.
AND TO CONFIRN THIS INFO
From: Silva at realbeer.com
Thanks for spreading the word, Clay. the editorial was inspired by a
conversation with Randy Mosher who has just returned from "Hops" world tour.
While in the Czech Republic he saw the effects of this Bud action. For more,
tell him we referred you. He's a great guy, an excellent designer and
journalist and passionate homebrewer. you can reach him at randymshr at aol.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 1995 10:55:23 -0400
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Brewing and Kids
You can make a strong argument that it's not beer until you pitch the
yeast. Prior to that, you're just making a malt-based beverage. If
you never pitched yeast, it would never be beer, and there would be no
legal bar to the kids consuming it.
Perhaps the law has changed since I was a kid, but when I was growing
up (New York state), it was ok for parents to give alcoholic beverages
to their kids at home.
=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu)
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 1995 11:07:13 EDT
From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com
Subject: RE: Canadian brown in competition
Robert_Ser at ceo.sts-systems.ca asks:
> I am considering entering my first homebrew competition. The
>beer I want to enter is a variation of a Pete's Wicked ale. The
For shame, for shame! Especially if you are in Montreal, shouldn't
you be brewing a Griffon Brown clone rather than a Pete's clone? :-)
(Yes, we get those wonderful McAuslan beers here.)
>problem I have is that this beer does not fit any of the competition's
>beer classifications. The closest class I can find is 'English
>Brown', but the specified O.G. must be in the 1.032 to 1.044 range,
>with an alcohol content of 2.5% to 3.6%. My beer had an O.G. of 1.056
>and an alcohol content of 4.4%. I would have liked to have my beer
>judged for what it is, and not in comparison with a true English
>Brown. Is there any point for me to enter my brew into this
Aside from the gravity question, your (North) American Brown is likely
to be way too hoppy (I can't believe I put those three words together!)
for an English Brown--don't neglect the IBU part of the guideline.
>competition, or should I wait for another competition that has an
>American Brown category? Comments from any of the beer judges out
You've answered your own question (unless, of course, Dennis Davison
is judging, and he'll dock you for being a point over the 1.055 OG
in the guideline; he might even call it a barley wine :-) Sorry, it's
a "semi-inside" joke. Smile, Dennis!) Another possibility: Does the
competition have a catch-all "other styles" category where you could
enter your Canadian Brown?
PLUG PLUG PLUG: If you don't mind the cost of international shipping
you could enter our November Classic competition in Madison. November
11; entries due November 4. Entry fees are $4.50 each for the first three
entries/$3.50 each for additional entries. $3/entry for club members.
U.S. funds, please, but we'd probably accept a fresh six-pack of Maudite
or something of similar quality in lieu of a cash entry fee if getting a
cheque in U.S. funds was a problem. :-) :-) :-)
Now go have a beer,
Bob Paolino uswlsrap at ibmmail.com
Madison
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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 08:07:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Edmund C. Hack" <echack at crl.com>
Subject: Re: Drug legalization/Holiday Cheer
On Thu, 5 Oct 1995, in HBD 1849, it was written by Tim Fields
<74247.551 at compuserve.com> on Legislating drugs out of existence
[discussion on drug cartels going legit and getting into a price spiral
upward deleted]
> So... IMHO legalization results in more demand, some upward pressure on
> prices, and some downward pressure on prices. Would this mean lower
> street prices, and possibly less micro violence? Would cartels duke it
> out on the field of competition instead of shooting up everything?
>
If the US legalized drugs, and they were available for over the counter
purchase like alcohol and tobacco, there would be a couple of
well-documented effects, based on US pre-prohibition and the experience
in other coutries with legalized/decriminalized drug laws:
1 - the drugs would be marketed and sold by major corporations, not
street gangs and organized crime.
2 - the drugs would drop in strength and price, increase in purity. Crack
is a direct result of the need for drugs to be sold in their most
concentrated form when they are illegal. Before it was illegal, cocaine
was found in any number of low-strength products, such as Coca-Cola. The
Kennedy family didn't make their fortune smuggling in wine and beer, but
in distilled spirits, which command the highest price per unit volume.
(Collector wines are the only execption to this).
3 - Social pressure can control use of drugs. The US has seen a major
shift in the last 20 years in the perception of the use of tobacco and
alcohol. In movies, the bad guys smoke nowdays. The "loveable drunk" is
no longer a staple character. Conversely, it greatly effects how illegal
drugs are used - there really is a "drug culture".
> Bottom line: dependent users still need money because the product isn't
> free. They don't have any more money for legal drugs than they do now
> for illegal ones, and even if the cost drops some (which is questionable
> - when is the last time you saw someone give up money they were already
> making just to be nice?) users will still be violent to get what they
> need. Suppliers still want the business and will fight for market share.
> And, Uncle Sam becomes an active, money-making player.
>
Most people that study organized crime in the US agree that if drugs were
legalized, it would be a _major_ blow to organized crime and the gangs,
as it would quickly be taken over by corporate interests. The gangs have
essentially no other way to make money (bookmaking and prostitution are
not in their areas of expertise.)
> Gee... after THINKing about it, it's MO that the *use* of drugs is
> causing the crime and violence.
Most, but not all, junkies go in for non-violent crime. The drug related
violence is mostly turf wars by the gang members who are not junkies.
>The effort to legislate them out of
> existence might put some upward pressure on pricing, but i do not believe
> anti-drug laws are the major cause of crime and violence.
In the late 70s, when I last was studying this, drug addiction was
responsible for at least 75% of burglaries and other minor thefts.
> Eliminating the *demand* would eliminate the crime and violence.
But all governmental efforts to do so have _failed_. Addiction is a
_medical_ problem, not a criminal one. Even when the drug laws were
incredibly draconian, the demand was still there. One addiction expert I
saw interviewed by William F. Buckley predicted a short term rise in use
after a legalization, followed by a drop to lower levels than today.
The problem is complex, there are many competing interests and it
involves private personal behavior, so don't count on the governments
doing the right thing. :-(
It was also written by Slyboyy at aol.com on Papazian Holiday cheer:
> This is not a very important question but here it goes any way.
Heck, that doesn't stop the rest of us.
>I brewed the
> Papazian holiday cheer recipe to the letter, and its in the bottles for a
> month was it a good Idea bottling it almost 4 months before the holidays or
> should I have waited till about a month before serving. I figured with all
> the spices involved in the recipe a long bottle conditioning would do the
> brew good.
Good idea. I made it last year, cutting back on the ginger slightly. It
didn't hit peak flavor until 3-4 months in the bottle.
Edmund Hack \ "Woodrow Wilson has his fourteen points, but
echack at crl.com \ Clemenceau turns to Lloyd George and says
Houston, TX \ 'You know that God himself had only ten.'" - Al Stewart
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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 11:28:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: LCDR Leo E Chiasson Jr <chiasson at nadn.navy.mil>
Subject: Homebewers digest
Please add me to the homebrewers digest
chiasson at nadn.navy.mil
thanks
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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 09:40:52 -0600
From: nealc at selway.umt.edu (Neal Christensen)
Subject: re: Assembling lautering manifold
Yesterday I made a post about assembling a copper manifold using wire
threaded through holes in the joints. I should mention that it would work
better to assemble the manifold using 1/16" holes instead of 1/4" holes - it
might pass a bit of grain with 1/4" holes :}.
Neal Christensen
Missoula - A Place Sort Of
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Date: Thu, 05 Oct 1995 12:59:20 -0500 (EST)
From: AGNORCB at miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Subject: Pumpkin Ale Recipes
Hi Y'all,
A friend of mine was recently raving about the Pumpkin Ale at Capitol City
Brewing in DC and I said to myself...."self, I should brew a pumpkin ale for
the holidays." Unfortunately I quickly realized that I didn't know how to brew
such a beer. Can anyone help me out here?
Can a pumpkin beer be made with extracts and pumpkin pie filling or is it
necessary to mash bits of pumpkin with the grain? How should the pumpkin be
prepared prior to mashing? I'd be interested to hear any good and or bad
experiences about brewing with pumpkin.
On another note, I made a post about a week ago requesting cider recipes to
which I received no replies. Several people e-mailed me and expressed interest
in the recipes. If anyone has a good cider recipe or knows of a place on the
net which I can find some I would really appreciate it. TIA
Craig Agnor
agnorcb at muohio.edu
Miami University
Oxford, OH
______________________________________________________________________________
A sign at Jacobs Field last night read "NO CORK ALL TORQUE"
GO TRIBE!!!!!!!!!!!
______________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 10:34:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: sprmario at netcom.com (John Girard)
Subject: Re: Scaling recipes
First, I'm happy to say I now have my own identity (and no longer have to
masquerade as Mario). :)
Jim, I believe, asked about scaling batches up to larger sizes. It
sounds from his setup like he is considering doing partial mashes,
boiling 15 gallons of concentrated wort and diluting to 45 gallons (feel
free to correct me if I missed something). My first concern would be
your anticipated OG. Does anyone know the upper limites of OGs? (i.e.,
how much extract can be dissolved into wort until it is saturated?) I
think 1.120 is doable (seem to remember someone discussing if before),
but when dilluted, this would achieve a 1.040 OG. How high can he go?
Other considerations that come to mind: hop utilization is changed when
doing a concentrated boil (higher gravity means lower hop util.). A
program like Suds is helpful in determining how much extra hopping you
need to do (decide on the IBUs you want in the final product, and use
Suds to calculate, in this case, 3 times the IBUs for the 15 gallon
concentrated boil -- I believe IBUs will *dillute* in a linear fashion). I
have done this in doubling batches, with good results. Let me know if you
have more questions about it.
One last consideration: more darkening of the wort will occur in a
concentrated boil than in a full boil (and don't forget that extracts
will darken the result on their own -- even the extra-lights don't seem
to be so light).
Hope this helps.
-John Girard in L.A.
(who finally isn't masquerading as anyone else anymore!)
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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 15:13:39 -0700
From: pohl at unixg.ubc.ca (Derrick Pohl)
Subject: Two questions about sediment....
1) Sometimes I'm too busy to rack out of the primary promptly and have let
brews sit there for as long as 2 weeks.
What are the dangers or problems (esp. in terms of taste) with letting the
brew sit too long on the primary sediment? What is the optimum time to
rack from the primary?
I brew all-grain and use liquid yeast, and vigourous foamy fermentation is
usually over by the fourth or fifth day.
2) For reusing yeast, all I do is pour the sediment from the previous
batch into a sanitised jar, then stick it into the fridge for up to 2
weeks. Come pitching time, I just dump it into the next brew as is (I let
it come to room temp. first). I've only done this a few times, and haven't
noticed any obvious problems. Is this a *bad* technique in the opinion of
the yeastily wise?
Also, which is better for such repitching: the sediment from the primary
or the secondary?
Derrick Pohl <pohl at unixg.ubc.ca>
Vancouver, B.C., Canada
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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 17:26:50 -0400
From: oglinef at wahoo.netrunner.net (Fred Ogline)
Subject: Home casking Information?
A fellow brewer asked me if I had seen any information on cask conditioning
for homebrews. He's seen small casks, 2, 5, and 10 gallons available, and is
wondering if the process is too complicated for the casual homebrewer.
My thoughts are: cleaning the cask has got to be tough, South Florida is not
the best place unless he has a fridge set up for ale temps, and even then,
he beter drink fast (or invite all of us over!)
Is there a faq, or does someone have personal experiences they can share?
Private email is ok, I will summarize for the group.
Thanks,
Fred Ogline
South Florida
oglinef at netrunner.net
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Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 11:48:28 +0900
From: tomio at ai.mew.co.jp (Steve Madsen)
Subject: Thanks for the replies
Hi everyone:
I've already received several replies regarding ordering internationally,
and it looks like even with shipping the price will be half what it is
in Japan at the stores. I've also gotten some inquiries from a few fellow
ex-patriates, so as soon as I can organize everything I'll post so that
others can benefit.
One important bit of trivia is that 800 numbers cannot be accessed
from outside the U.S. It is truly frustrating to discover an ad for
something useful that only gives an 800 number as a means of
contacting the company, since there's simply no way to call them from
Japan. Of course, 800 numbers are so prevalent that most people
(including those who are responsible for creating ad copy) would never
dream there'd be a problem using them from far away--but there is.
Thanks again to all who've sent replies.
- --
Steve Madsen, Research Engineer
Virtual Reality R&D Lab, IS Center
Matsushita Electric Works, Ltd.
1048, Kadoma, Osaka 571 JAPAN
E-mail: tomio at ai.mew.co.jp
Phone numbers (Japan country code, "81", is included):
Tel: +81-6-908-6835 (Complete phone number from N. America: 011-81-6-908-6835)
Fax: +81-6-900-2766 (Complete fax number from N. America: 011-81-6-900-2766)
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Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 16:38:45 +1000 (EST)
From: Ken Willing <kwilling at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Subject: Alcohol & mortality: New study
No responsibility is taken for relaying the following information, which I
quote as it was reported in the Sydney Morning Herald, the local "quality"
newspaper. I will try to obtain the actual full report when it is
published, and will relay the information at that time.
A five-year study of alcohol consumption and mortality has been carried out
in the country town of Dubbo, New South Wales. It involved (initially) 2805
persons over the age of 60, of whom 2300 were still alive at the end of the
period. (I believe the five years were over in 1993, and the study is
continuing.)
Results:
If you had "up to 2" standard drinks a day ("one standard drink" = approx.
10 ounces of beer, or the alcohol equivalent in wine or spirits), you were
10% more likely to be alive at the end of the period than if you had none.
If you had "2 to 3" standard drinks a day, you were 30% more likely to be
alive at the end of the period than if you had none.
If you had "3 or more" standard drinks a day, you were 60% more likely to
be alive at the end of the period than if you had none.
This kind of information will not be startling news to anyone who has
seen the results of studies relating to, for example, the "Mediterranean
Diet", focused on red wine and other foods, where olive oil, natural
temperamental laid-back-ness [supposedly], etc., may be factors. The
protective factor(s) in wine are under investigation. But this Australian
study is the first I've seen where the predominant alcoholic beverage is
(almost certainly) beer... (As you probably know or would surmise, the
drinking habits of the older generation in Australian country towns feature
beer very prominently.)
The above numbers are what the article said. Naturally, take all such
stuff with a grain of ... well, not salt -- perhaps a grain of malt.
Drink in moderation.
Ken Willing <kwilling at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Macquarie University, Sydney 2109, Australia
"In my article on Milk Production yesterday, for 'horse'
read 'cow' throughout."
-- Beachcomber
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1850, 10/06/95