HOMEBREW Digest #1940 Sat 20 January 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Here's to you! (Robert Morgan)
  Slotted Copper Manifold in Lauter Tun ("Lee R. Posz")
  DMS taste? (Lance Skidmore)
  Dried Malt Extract (Al Paglieri)
  Re: Mashing In Techniques (tgaskell)
  Open Ferm (Jack Schmidling)
  Diacetyl?? ("James Hojel")
  Sierra Nevada clone recipe (Mark Redman)
  Misc: paint stirrers/foil insulation/Malt Mill/ventilation/propane ("Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556")
  Cleaning Fermentation Lock ("Herb B. Tuten")
  Splitting up mash/boil into two-day event (Michael Arau)
  Re: Keg modification (George Miller - The CyberMarketing Group)
  Buckets/Plastic Hydrometers/"Burpness"/Density Gradients Debunked!/Boiling (KennyEddy)
  Beer Art (IHomeBrew)
  Arabian Brews/Plastic Cylindroconicals/U.K. Trip Q. ("Edmund C. Hack")
  Re: How to get Diacetyl (Spencer W Thomas)
  Re: Labels & Milk (Mitch Hogg)
  Bottle Carbonation (Kelly E Jones)
  RE: Imperial Stout Question (Randy M. Davis)
  Wyeast #1275 <- slow fermentation? (Judith Morgan or Jerzy Niesytto)
  Read what I meanr, not what I typed (John W. Braue, III)
  Ringwood (Kit Anderson)
  Basmati rice Cream ale (Jeff Smith)
  Ringwood (Kit Anderson)
  stuck lager ferment response (W_GLADDEN)
  Japan and brewing (Douglas Thomas)
  Hydrometer readings at high altitude ("MSDOB02.OGBORRW")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 20:50:09 -0500 From: Robert Morgan <rmorgan at CAM.ORG> Subject: Here's to you! Thanks to everyone who doesn't realize that they helped me brew a great beer! I'm enjoying a pint of John Bull Executive Bitter, an all-extract kit made up of 3 kg of extract and dry yeast. I boiled the extract, hydrated the yeast, oxygenated the cooled wort, pitched at the right temperature, and maintained a constant fermentation temperature in a carboy with a blowoff. After fermentation had subsided three days later, I added some Williamette pellets to get some hop nose. I bottled one third in some old Grolsh bottles and kegged the balance in a Rotokeg I've been using for over five years. Ten days later, today, I'm enjoying a bitter better than I can buy. Cheers! Rob Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 20:31:54 -0800 From: "Lee R. Posz" <lposz at cisco.com> Subject: Slotted Copper Manifold in Lauter Tun I've finally decided to replace my old two bucket lauter tun system and have opted for a slotted 1/2" diameter copper manifold in a rectangular shaped 48 quart picnic cooler. This way I can mash and lauter in the same vessel and add enough boiling water to achieve mash out temperatures. I've already built the unit but had a question regarding soldering the copper joints. I used silver (lead free) solder that complies with all applicable safe drinking water laws. Is it okay to use the solder to secure the joints or should I have tried harder to find compression fittings for the 90 degree elbow joints, etc.? Thanks. Lee R. Posz Houston, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 22:06:45 -0800 (PST) From: Lance Skidmore <lskidmor at linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> Subject: DMS taste? While brewing this weekend with a few friends, a discussion started concerning the merits of covering a boil. I recalled many posts to HBD warning of the risks of producing DMS by doing such a dastardly deed. To which my fellow brewers responded "what does DMS taste like and how do I know if I've got it?". And to be honest, I really didn't have a clue. I thought I've been paying attention here, but maybe I missed that part. So, at the risk of sounding like a rank newbie, what does it taste like and is it really all that big a deal? Lance Skidmore, Port Orchard, WA ____________________________________________________________ WASHINGTON...where the rain and good beer never stop flowing! - ------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 08:19:39 -0500 (EST) From: Al Paglieri <bq359 at freenet.toronto.on.ca> Subject: Dried Malt Extract In my quest to get a good deal on a bulk purchase of DME I came across a company that has "baking grade" DME. The tech support could not satisfactorily explain this for me. Is this sutible for my homebrew and what is the difference between brewing grade and baking grade? Thanks in advance! Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 96 08:26:22 EST From: tgaskell at e3sa.elab.syr.ge.com Subject: Re: Mashing In Techniques In HBD #1938, craig.rode at sdrc.com wrote: > I continue to try to increase my extract efficiency to 30. <snip> > My technique is to put the dry grist (pale ale and adjuncts) in > the mash tun, and then dump the strike water at 170F into it all > at once, and then mix like he**. The mash ends up at about 152F, > and I then place it in the oven preheated at 150F, monitior it for > 90 min, mix every 15 min....etc. There are a couple of things you might try to boost extract efficiency: 1. Try a rest at 40C. I use the now famous George Fix 40-60-70C mash schedule for pale ale malt (and will use a 50-60-70C schedule when I get fridge space so I can brew a lager). It was found that a rest at 40C will boost extraction while the time at 60 and 70 will control fermentability and body (long rest at 60C, more fermentable, short rest at 60C = more body). Check out George Fix's 40-60-70 mash schedule articles and follow-ups like Rob Reed's. Sources: Spencer's Beer Page http://www-personal.umich.edu/~spencer/beer/ From Spencer's Beer Page: - George's data is under "Frequently Asked Questions" then "Mashing Systems", then "couple of notes". - Look for "Reports on Brewing Experiments" for Rob Reed's results. 2. Try a mash out. Rob Reed's experimental results also show that a mash out step at 165 to 170F will boost extraction rates, but not as much as a 105F (40C) rest. If you are shooting to get the most from your grist, try both. Tom Gaskell Hog Heaven Homebrew Picobrewery Clayville, NY, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 96 07:47 CST From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Open Ferm >From: jfrane at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) >I think it's a matter of semantics, and of fermenter geometry. If it's in an open fermenter, even with a lid on it, it's open.....A cylindro-conical fermenter (most common thing to see in a micro or brewpub), it's clearly closed -- that is, completely contained. Same with a carboy, whether the hole is up or down; the fermenter is clearly contained. How bout a carboy without an airlock? >Open fermentation has to do with the shape (wide and wide open, and with access. How bout those ubiquitous 7 gal plastic jobs that fit your geometry definition but are designed to poke an airlock in the hole in the lid? >In an open fermenter, even one with a loose-fitting lid, you can skim, you can dip, whatever, and well, it's different. That seems to be the accepted definition but it does confuse the uninitiated and it begs for a better term. >What I don't fully understand is why it's taking Jack 10 days to reach a stage that isn't even completely clear. In 10 days, I'm drinking my beer. I will bet that beer is not lagered at 40 degs F. You wouldn't want to drink mine in ten days. >From: Scottie617 at aol.com >All of this talk about open and almost open and closed fermentation has me confused. Could somebody please explain to me the advantages of open fermentation versus blowoff? Glad you asked. This is another one of those areas where my opinion is less than meek and equivocal. Blowoff is probably the silliest procedure that has ever been developed for making beer. I am hard pressed to think of even a single redeeming feature. The advantages of "open" fermentation are as myriad as those for blowoff are lacking. Try simplicity and ease of use as the basic cover all. > Why would you take the chance of contamination? The anal retentive types will tell you the risk comes every time you open it to peek or skim the foam. Neither of which you need to do but that is another issue. My favorite advantage is that if you ferment is a kettle, all you do to "sterilize" it is boil a quart of water in it with the lid on for a few minutes. >I thought that blowoff was a step ahead, not behind. It is a giant leap backwards. Carboys make great secondary fermenters for beer or wine but they are the wrong tool for primary and using them with blowoff technique is like trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear. > How do you repitch from an open fermentation? Not sure what you mean but there is half an inch of stuff on the bottom you can do anything you want to with. > Cant you do the same with a blowoff? Sure and all the rest of the mess that goes with it. Aside from that, I have no strong feelings one way or the other. js Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 96 13:56:27 UT From: "James Hojel" <JTroy at msn.com> Subject: Diacetyl?? On the subject of diacetyl: Many of the real ales that I've tasted from the UK seem to have a major or minor diacetyl profile. I describe these ales as very fruity with a sweet diacetyl undertone. Over the years I've become a big fan of diacetyl. I've also noticed that many of the American (micros) ales do not have a noticeable diacetyl profile. I speculate that this may be attributed to the common use of Wyeast 1056/Chico (very clean an neutral) and/or another neutral yeast. In addition, many people on the HBD reference to how diacetyl is an "acquired taste." I realize that it is not appropriate for many styles of beer, but shouldn't it be fine in most UK style beers (milds, bitters, porters, stouts, etc.)? Maybe I'm asking for a more specific style guide. In what kinds of ales is diacetyl accepted and in which is it not; and why? What is the collectives opinion on diacetyl; do you like it? JTH Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 09:02:30 -0500 From: Mark Redman <brewman at vivid.net> Subject: Sierra Nevada clone recipe Greetings fellow brewmen (and women): I would like to brew an all grain (five gallon) clone of my favorite beer, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. What little I do know of it's make up includes the yeast (Chico) and the aroma hop (Cascade). If anybody can fill in the following blanks for me it would be greatly appreciated, either by post or email. 1) Grain: Domestic 2 row pale? Crystal? Dark malts? 2) Original gravity, final gravity. 3) Hops: Bittering hops. IBU, type, additions. I'm pretty sure it's dry hopped. I have fresh Cascade and Centennial, so I'll probably use Centennial as a bittering hop (unless I'm told otherwise). 4) Water: pH, Hardness, Alkalinity, Calcium, Sodium, Chloride? I have very soft water here in Atlanta so I will be able to adjust accordingly. Thanks a bunch. By the way, I think we all deserve a pat on the back for maintaining such a great mailing list. It is always low in flames, noise, and unrelated threads (although the yeast/O2/Crabtree thread is getting a little old, but it is very informative) GO PITTSBURGH! See ya. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 09:33:25 -0500 (EST) From: "Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556" <BRADLEY_DAVID_A at Lilly.com> Subject: Misc: paint stirrers/foil insulation/Malt Mill/ventilation/propane Some questions as well as some info, for anyone interested: 1. On paint stirrers & suitability for stirring the mash: I know this has been discussed before (sorry) but I cannot currently search the digests. There are painted ones I suspect should be avoided. What about the "chrome-plated" ones? I'm looking to stir intermittently during step mashing Anyone? Should I avoid this? 2. Anyone know what the thermal stability of polyurethane coatings is? 3. Insulating the mash/lauter tun: some HBDers have mentioned the use of the shiny foil (Reflectix(TM) around here) with air pockets for this purpose. The inner linings being polyethylene, I questioned the max temp exposure of this stuff. A brochure at the hardware store by the manufacturer states 180F as the max temp for CONTACT exposure. 4. Motorizing my Malt Mill (TM-JS) with a 1/3hp 1725rpm motor hooked to a 8:1 pulley set and powered by a variable "rheostat" works great! Using my drill was one of my worst brewing experiences ever. 5. I've constructed a burner ventilation hood fairly cheaply (<$100) that moves some serious air (0-2000CFM) using an old furnace blower. Talk about needing make-up intake: otherwise the windows might implode! If there's serious interest in plans, I'll post something. Email *me*. 6. FYI, local hardware stores sell propane detectors for ca $40. I'm using one (and a CO monitor) in my basement brewery...cheap "insurance". From: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com") cc: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 09:35:42 EDT From: "Herb B. Tuten" <HERB at zeus.co.forsyth.nc.us> Subject: Cleaning Fermentation Lock Greetings All, Has anyone discovered a good way to clean yuck out of a fermentation lock? A recent batch foamed all the way into the neck of the thing. It stopped short of the water, so I didn't need to disturb the process to take it out, clean it, etc. Particles were left in the open part of the chamber between the bucket and the fermentation-lock-fill-water. OK, no big deal, the fermentation went well. After racking to secondary, clean-up time came. "You try soaking it out, you try scrubbing it out, and still you have Ring-Around-the-Air-Lock". Any ideas for nuclear soaking solutions, or self-guided cleaning wires would be appreciated. I've tried many things and I'd hate to throw this friend away; we've been through alot together. Thanks, Herb (herb at zeus.co.forsyth.nc.us) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 06:57:53 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Arau <marau at linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> Subject: Splitting up mash/boil into two-day event JM> Since I have started all-grain brewing I can no longer produce JM> homebrew as often as I would like due to the length of my brew days. JM> Can anyone think of a reason why I couldn't split my brewing day in JM> two and mash one evening and boil the next? What (if any) are the JM> risks of leaving pre-boiled wort standing overnight? Would this JM> affect the quality of the final brew? Has anyone else used or tried JM> this method? I would be collecting the mash run-off in a 6.8 gal JM> carboy and storing it until the next evening when I would transfer JM> it to my 15 gal brew kettle. Get a hold of the last Issue of Zymurgy. (Special grain issue) There is an article in there about saving time and it discusses letting the mash go overnight. It covers other methods of cutting time as well. I haven't tried any of these as yet. So far my method is to get up really early on a weekend and start. That way I'm done before much of the regular day has gone by. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 09:05:35 -0600 From: George Miller - The CyberMarketing Group <gmiller at cybermarket.com> Subject: Re: Keg modification Leo - I'm in the process of putting together a 3 vessel RIMS based on kegs. I've learned a few things along the way: * Don't use a cutting torch! It doesn't cut well through the SS, and it brutalizes the metal. * Find a welder (or brother-in-law) that has a Plasma Cutter. I'm not sure how these things work, but they will cut the SS like a hot knife through butter! The cut is smooth and clean, MUCH better than using a Sawzall with bimetal blades. We cut the tops off 3 kegs in a total of 1 minute. * Use a high grade drill bit to drill holes in the kegs for fittings/nipples. The hole is much better than trying to use the plasma cutter or torch. Go slow with the drill though, if/when the drill bites it will throw you for a ride! * Get SS nipples to attach to the kegs. Find a really good welder because SS welding is very tricky (especially the thin walls of the kegs). We used a Miller wire welder with SS wire and 100% argon gas. It's a thing of beauty. Now if I could just find a good surplus pump! George ________________________________________________ The CyberMarketing Group Full Service Internet Advertising and Consulting gmiller at cybermarket.com http://www.cybermarket.com/ ________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 10:07:19 -0500 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Buckets/Plastic Hydrometers/"Burpness"/Density Gradients Debunked!/Boiling Randy Barnes writes: > Also, the container is somewhat square in shape, the plastic is slightly > softer (but thicker) than food-grade pickle-bucket plastic, and > originally held solvent but has since been used to store gasoline. Before > I make big plans to use the container to heat mash water, does anyone know > how I could remove all traces of gasoline from the plastic? I suspect that > I might get lots of "don't do it!" replies DON'T DO IT!! Clean new plastic buckets of "all" sizes are available at restaraunt supply stores and many other places. Henry Dondi asks: > My question is; Does anyone know if a LEXAN or plastic hydrometer is made > for people like me? My wife dropped my hydrometer a while back; it wasn't her fault, and since she's usually the one buggine *me* to get my a** brewing, I doubt she did it on purpose ;-{)} Anyhow, this is one I have wondered about as well. But another feature which would be great is to have a hydrometer and thermometer in one unit, so one could do accurate correction without the hassle of two separate menasurements. I use the SG scale; frankly, if they bagged the potential alcohol, Balling, and Plato scales in favor of good ol' degrees F and C it'd be OK with me. Perhaps there would even be room for a correction table on the unit... And By The Way, Henry, welcome to Homebrewing!! Your comments about first hoping to "equal" Budmilloors, then realizing that that would be pointless, is a recurring theme among new brewers. Our club's Brewer of the Year almost didn't start brewing because "what's the point if you can't make it cheaper than Bud Lite?". Kinda scary. Has anyone seen Jeff Frane's recent articles in Brew Your Own magazine? Nice job, Jeff, but "Burpness"? Really! Do keep us posted, and BTW I was voted Grand Master Belchroid of Rochester Minnesota in 1977 (by an impartial panel of drunks if I remember right) so if you need any research done... Paul Fisher writes: > After a batch has been in a secondary for about > a week, take a flashlight and aim it directly at the carboy at various > levels. There is definitely a density gradient present, as indicated > by the color change and the amount of light reflected back from the > different levels in the carboy. I see this all the time and have always assumed it's settling yeast & other debris. Density of the suspended matter increases with depth. Let it sit long enough and it'll be quite homogeneous. Jerry Minasi: > My question is: All the books I've read say "Even though the > manufacturer says 'no boiling necessary,' that you should Boil the > extracts for at least for fifteen minutes." THere are many effects from boiling, not the least of which is sanitation. Additionally, though, one would have to include hop oil utilization (oil & water don't mix, remember?), "break" production (which is the coagulation of proteins in the wort into a precipitate; this heavily relies on the mechanical "roll" of the boil), reduction (evaporation) of certain volatiles, and carmelization (darkening of sugars due to exposure to heat). If you're using hopped extract and not adding any more hops, you could get by with shorter boil times, but the one-hour Rule O' Thumb is a pretty good guide. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 10:07:50 -0500 From: IHomeBrew at aol.com Subject: Beer Art All, Does anyone know where I can get (i.e. download) good brew-related images? I am looking for icons, gifs, bmps, etc. to spice up a piece of brew software that I am writing. When it comes to computer art, I try to leave that to people who are relativley artistic. TIA, Clark Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 07:03:10 -0800 (PST) From: "Edmund C. Hack" <echack at crl.com> Subject: Arabian Brews/Plastic Cylindroconicals/U.K. Trip Q. Regarding Arabian Penninuslar brewing: There is an article on this in the latest Brew Your Own. It fits in with tales I've heard from others in Houston. One friend that spent a year or two in Kuwait in the 70s indicated that is was not unheard of for a few kegs of pure grain alcohol to arrive in the bilges of supertankers and for "essence of gin/scotch/bourbon" to be manufactured in various chem labs. At the time he was there, it was nearly impossible to get a magazine into the country (too many pictures of women with limbs exposed and mentions of Israel), but unlabeled videotapes sailed through, with a little greasing of the wheels. A while back, there was mention of a company with reasonably priced plastic cylindroconical vessels. Unfortunately, I've lost the HBD with that message and would like to find out who made them and if anyone has tried using one for brewing. Finally, my wife and I are considering a trip to the U.K. in June. I'd like to visit a berewery or two and quaff a pint or two or three ... a day ... while there. However, we will have our 8 year old daughter with us. Are kids allowed in pubs and on brewery trips, or am I SOL? Would we be grossly violating social standards by bringing her into a pub? If we do decide on the trip, I understand that there is a CAMRA guide to "real beer" pubs. Any US sources for it? TIA. Edmund Hack \ "But maybe he's only a little crazy - echack at crl.com \ like painters - or composers - or some of those Houston, TX \ men in Washington." - _Miracle on 34th St._, 1947 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 10:14:40 -0500 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: How to get Diacetyl >>>>> "James" == James Caldwell <jimcald at ix.netcom.com> writes: James> Curt Speaker asked how to get Diacetyl: Ferment Ringwood James> yeast at about 70 degrees. Ringwood can be cultured from James> Geary's Pale Ale (or other Geary's product). The Yeast Culture Kit Company (YCKCo at aol.com, http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/yckco.html) has this strain, if you prefer not to culture from bottle, or you can't get Geary's products. (It's not listed in the online catalog, but he *does* have it.) yada: I have no connection ... except that Dan is a friend. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 12:07:10 -0500 (EST) From: Mitch Hogg <bu182 at freenet.toronto.on.ca> Subject: Re: Labels & Milk Thanks to everyone who responded to my question about how to best stick labels on bottles. And my apologies to those to whom my question was redundant; apparently this query has been posed to the list before. At any rate, the responses I received were split pretty evenly between those advocating the milk method and those who swear by the glue stick. Completely foreign to everyone who responded was the concept of mixing up skim milk powder; apparently plain ol' milk from the fridge (that's the appliance, not the activity) works just as well. This can be easily explained, however. As you may recall, I got the milk powder idea from a buddy who puts up posters for his band and therefore must mix up the milk a bucket at a time, as opposed to the relatively small amount required by homebrewers. The advantage to the powder in his situation is that it is dirt cheap (the disadvantage for us being that one must buy the stuff in serious bulk; the smallest bag I found was about two feet square, and about three inches deep). I don't know about you, but with all this beer going on, I haven't got room to store enough milk powder to last me the rest of my life. At any rate, thanks to all who responded, and (this being the real reason anyone ever posts these thank-you messages), don't send me any more suggestions. Your work here is done. I would, however, appreciate some clarification on a new issue. (That's right; another day, another esoteric beer question.) In HBD 1937, someone (no, I didn't write it down; you know who you are) wrote about a six-gallon carboy being superior to a five because the six gives some airspace for the krausen and saves blowover during fermentation. Now, I use a plastic bucket for primary fermentation, so the krausen bit doesn't affect me, but I was always under the impression that a glass carboy should be topped up as high as possible, as too much headspace is a bad thing. Now that I think about it, of couse, this seems silly, as there's plenty of air in my primary, but I guess I always assumed that the krausen and its accompanying layer of CO2 kept the air and its dangers away from my beer. So my question is this: can I leave a gallon or so of headspace in my six-gallon carboy? Will this affect my beer? I ask because I've often racked from my primary and wound up with somewhere between 19 and 23 litres of beer. Fearing headspace-induced infection, I've always opted for a full 19 litre carboy rather than a not-quite-full 23 litre. This, of course, meant the painful experince of pouring some potentially good beer down the drain. Did I do the right thing? Thanks in advance, Mitch. P.S. On re-reading this, I realise I've rather sloppily switched between Imperial and metric measurements (which is, after all, the only true bilingualism all Canadians may claim). Sorry. For 19 litres, read 5 gallons. For 23 litres, read 6 gallons. And don't even get me started with US vs. Imperial gallons. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 17:29:56 GMT From: Kelly E Jones <kejones at ptdcs2.intel.com> Subject: Bottle Carbonation Again, Kudos to the HBD experimenters, this time Steve Alexander for his work on bottle carbonation levels. A couple quick comments: 1) Steve's work seems to indicate that low-fill bottles carbonate faster than high-fill. I can't come up with an explanation for this based upon the physics, and so I suspect Steve may be right when he suggests that more oxygen in the underfill bottles may be creating a healthier environment for the yeast. 2) As for the observation that the air-locked bottle completed in 6 days, I would be hesitant to conclude this. We're used to considering a carboy as still fermenting when we see a bubble every few minutes. Consider that a carboy contains 20l of fermenting wort, a bottle only 300ml, so we would expect a bubbling rate from the bottle which is less than 1/60th that of a carboy. At this rate, the bottle's airlock bubbling could easily go unobserved, or washed out by the effect of varying atmospheric pressure. So I am guessing that your airlocked bottle also took over 20 days to fully finish fermenting, and did so at such a slow rate that airlock bubbling was not observable after 6 days. 3) Just to throw a monkey wrench into the works: Unfortunately, just about every data point gathered in this experiment was subjective, from the loudness of a 'pffft' to the perceived carbonation level of a beer. This makes much of the data at least suspect. This is not at all a slam on Steve, who seems to have been very careful with his technique and record keeping. Most of us don't have oodles of time or tens of thousands of dollars of analytical equipment to do these experiments. While I have no reason to disbelieve Steve's observations, it would be hasty to take these results as the final truth, whether they support our theorys or not. Kelly Portland, OR Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 10:08:19 MST From: Randy M. Davis <rmdavis at cal.mobil.com> Subject: RE: Imperial Stout Question In #1938 Mike asks some questions about a higher gravity brew. Since I recently brewed an Imperial Stout OG 1.098 and used the same yeast #1084 I can respond to his questions. o What is the alcohol tolerance of ale yeast (Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale, in this case)? Has this yeast reached its limit? I very much doubt that it has reached it's limit. My 1.099 brew erupted during the primary ferment producing about 12 inches of foam which reached the top of my 10 gallon plastic primary. My final gravity was 1.026 which I thought was very good. The activity in the secondary was negligible. o Should I just let it clear for a few more days, prime, and bottle (in other words, RDWHAHB)? I would suggest that you let it sit for a bit. No need to rush a beer that will require a fairly long aging period. I had mine in the secondary for 3 weeks. o Should I add some different (more attenuative?) yeast in the secondary? At bottling time? I also have another batch of ale fermenting (with Wyeast 1098 British Ale); I could pitch some of the sludge from that batch into the stout. You didn't mention what the gravity is at now. If it is in the 20's then no worry. I would not consider repitching unless it is obviously too high. My ferment was done with very fresh slurry from a previous batch. I know that a high pitching rate is even more important in a high gravity wort. When the 1084 managed to produce about 9% alcohol I thought it might be done for but I primed with 115 g. corn sugar and filled 49 350ml bottles and after a month it has a moderate carbonation. I am not worried any more and I am sure it will be superb a year from now. - -- +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Randy M. Davis rmdavis at cal.mobil.com Calgary Canada (403)260-4184 | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 11:40:34 -0600 From: jm.jn at MAIL.UTEXAS.EDU (Judith Morgan or Jerzy Niesytto) Subject: Wyeast #1275 <- slow fermentation? Howdy, trying to keep my India Pale Ale British I ignored friendly advice at my local hb shop and instead of Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) I used Wyeast 1275 (Thames Valley) - (for the first time). Recipe was all-grain IPA from Dave Miller's "Complete Handbook". OG = 1.043 Fermentation temp: 68F - 75F. No starter. Fermentation started after ~20hrs , slowly continued to build up , peaked after about 3 days then slowly subsided to about 1 bubble per 30sec. After 5 days SG = 1.012 and I decided to rack it. Krausen layer on top of beer was light brown/tan with "rice" looking white spots and was very thin (never reached the lid). Yeast layer on the bottom was thin too and had little of usu. "muddy" appearence. Beer (at a racking time) tasted fine - no obvious off-flavours. PROBLEM: since transfering to secondary 5 days ago fermentation still continues at about same pace (1 bubble every 30 sec). This is very different from my normal experience: vary rapid primary fermentation (3-4 days) and almost no activity in the secondary. QUESTION: Does anybody observed a similar behaviour in 1275 ? Are any of the above a sign of contamination? Thanks for any input, Jerzy Niesytto (trying to relax). Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 11:32:57 From: braue at ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III) Subject: Read what I meanr, not what I typed korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) writes: >John writes in his Red Ale recipe: >>115 g dry ale yeast > >That must be a typo. 5 to 10 grams is typical. Oops, that *was* a speck on the screen, not a decimal point. Unfortunately, I am notorious for leaving out decimal points, digits, and even entire words and phrases that utterly change the meaning of what I'm trying to convey. By a not-too-remarkable coincidence, about half an hour before reading this (and typing the response), I had to distribute a PROFS note across the eastern U.S. and Canada, explaining that, when I wrote that I restarted an MVS batch job last night, I really restarted it at 22:08, *not* 2:08. So, Al is quite right; I really meant to type "11.5g", not "115g" (and yes, I checked that the decimal point really exists and is in the the right place this time). Apologies to egans at cadvision.com for the typo, and I hope I didn't cause you too much inconvenience by directing you to pitch 4 oz. of dry yeast. - -- John W. Braue, III braue at ratsnest.win.net I prefer both my beer and my coffee to be dark and bitter; that way, they fit in so well with the rest of my life. I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 13:14:24 -0500 From: Kit Anderson <kit at maine.com> Subject: Ringwood James Caldwell wrote: >Ferment Ringwood yeast at about 70 degrees. Ringwood can be >cultured from Geary's Pale Ale (or other Geary's product). Geary's is cold filtered through DME. There is no yeast. Ringwood can be had from Yeast Labs. Kit Anderson Bath, Maine <kit at maine.com> The Maine Brew Page http://www.maine.com/brew Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 12:27:13 -0600 From: snsi at win.bright.net (Jeff Smith) Subject: Basmati rice Cream ale I brewed the following with some left over hops and yeast, X-mas extract and the kernel of an idea from Dave Methvin. Dave wondered whether Singhi was brewed with basmati rice. Malts/Sugars: 4.00 lb. Light Malt Extract Syrup (Northwestern) 2.50 lb. 2-row (Briess) 1.50 lb. Basmati Rice 1.00 lb. Vienna (Briess) Hops: 0.25oz. Cluster 7.1% 60 min 0.75oz. Fuggles 3.2% 60 min 0.38oz. Hallertau 3.1% 5 min 0.30oz. Hallertau 3.1% 2 min 0.50oz. Saaz 2.9% Dry one week Yeast: 1 pack Edme Notes: started 12/31/95 spg 1.054 bottled 01/14/96 spg 1.014 I crushed the rice in my PhilMill and cooked it in 6 qt. of water for one hour and let the temp drop to 130F. Then I added the grain and held the temp at 122F for 30 minutes. I added 2 qt. boiling water and raised the temp to 152F and held it there for 1 hour. I sparged with 2 gallons of water (with no stuck or slow run off), added the extract and boiled. I racked the it after a week in the carboy, threw in some hops and put it on my porch to sit. After a day in the cold (between 32F and 10F) I noticed that the beer was cloudy. Of coarse then it dawned on that I should have added some Irish moss. Since bottling it has cleared, it hasn't hit the frige yet but I assuming its chill haze. My questions are as follows: 1. Is there to much rice in this mash for protein rest to work? Or 2. Is there just to much water in the mash? 3. I almost used papian in at bottling. Does anyone have any advise on proper usage? 4. I'm thinking of converting this receipt from Basmati rice cream ale to Basmati rice Chipolte peppered cream ale. Anybody have a guess at how hot is hot enough? Right now I'm thinking about a TSP. of ground chipolte and five super hot cayenne from my garden? 5. If two trains leave Barnes, WI while your expecting -80F wind chill and a foot and a half of snow, how many home brews need to be consumed before you stop worrying about how you'll get to work if your car really does start? (Trick question. 1. Who cares if you make it to work anyway? 2. There are no train tracks in Barnes.) TIA Jeff Smith '71 HD Sprint 350SX (Considering conversion to a grain mill motor.) snsi at win.bright.net Barnes, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 13:14:24 -0500 From: Kit Anderson <kit at maine.com> Subject: Ringwood James Caldwell wrote: >Ferment Ringwood yeast at about 70 degrees. Ringwood can be >cultured from Geary's Pale Ale (or other Geary's product). Geary's is cold filtered through DME. There is no yeast. Ringwood can be had from Yeast Labs. Kit Anderson Bath, Maine <kit at maine.com> The Maine Brew Page http://www.maine.com/brew Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 14:09:37 -0500 From: W_GLADDEN at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US Subject: stuck lager ferment response In HBD 1938 Al Freignang ? writes about a stuck lager fermentation. Private e-mails bounced. Here goes. *Most important ... don't give up on it. I eventually bailed on a batch, dry hopped to counteract the sweetness and bottled. I ended up with swelling bottle caps (they really bulged!) on their way to becoming grenades. Had to open the caps numerous times which led to much hissing, frothing etc. The dog loved it! - If possible, get the temperature around 50 - 55 degrees instead of 45 - 50 for the ferment. After the ferment is complete go ahead and *lager* it at colder temps. If that alone doesn't get things going ... shake the carboy to resuspend the yeast & partially aerate. See what that does. It sounds like you have lots of yeast in the carboy and plenty of fermentables so I wouldn't bother with another starter or repitching yet. If that doesn't work ..... Try adding some yeast energizer. I boiled some water, let it cool, dissolved some yeast energizer in it and added it to the carboy/secondary fermenter. Bought it at a homebrew supply store and followed the instructions they gave me on its use. - then go back and shake yer carboy for the purposes of mixing in the energizer, resuspending the yeast and aerating. Some breweries have to rouse the yeast in their lagers as a matter of course to allow fermentation to continue/complete. That fact, and the fact your fermentation is not complete would lead me to conclude "aeration" from shaking/agitating the carboy will not ruin your beer. Don't worry ... have a homebrew. *Keep taking hydrometer readings to determine if fermentation is occuring. You would need the patience of a saint and the free time of a prison inmate see some lagers fermenting.* If you've tried all the above for about a month and can't get fermentation consider gradually increasing the temperature. Personally, I would get nervous approaching the 60 degree mark and definately NOT exceed 60 (assuming a lager is still the goal). If all that doesn't work, I'd consider repitching or the heck with the temp and go for a steam beer (tm). Good luck. -- Bill Gladden Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 11:45:18 -0800 (PST) From: Douglas Thomas <thomasd at uchastings.edu> Subject: Japan and brewing I have a friend in Japan who says that almost any beer you get there is 2nd rate at best, as well as being week. Home brewing is almost non-existant, seeing legally you can only produce a beverage of less than 1% alcohol. My question is, What about Sake? I have heard there are a great number of home Sake brewers, and they produce a drink with a much higher percentage alcohol than 1%. Is this because sake is fermented with yeast and bacteria, or are they just breaking the law and making it anyway? Also, has anyone heard anything about the 1 or 2 microbreweries in Japan? Where they are located and if they are any good? Any information is welcome. Doug Thomas Thomasd at uchastings.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Jan 1996 14:05:14 GMT From: "MSDOB02.OGBORRW" <OGBORRW at texaco.com> Subject: Hydrometer readings at high altitude - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- THIS MAIL MESSAGE IS FROM THE INTERNET AND MAY HAVE BEEN READ, COPIED, OR MODIFIED BY USERS OTHER THAN INTENDED RECIPIENTS. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a "simple" physics question. (Where's Bill Nye the Science Guy when I need him?). Noooo, that's not the question ... this is it: Do I need to apply an adjustment factor to hydrometer readings (the glass floating type) for altitude? I live near Denver at an altitude of approx. 5,280 Feet, 3 1/2 inches, + or - 40 feet or so. I know that comparing my own O.G. to F.G. would not make a difference at any atltitude since both readings are relative to each other, but I'm wondering if an adjustment should be made to my O.G. readings when comparing them to recipes of those who are near sea level. I would imagine that the hydrometer would float lower at a higher altitude since the air inside the bulb would most likely be heavier than the air outside resulting in a lower specific gravity reading. I don't know how significant a change in altitude/air pressure makes on such readings for hydrometers calibrated for sea level. Roy Ogborn Return to table of contents