HOMEBREW Digest #1948 Tue 30 January 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Plastic Boilers, Electric Brewery (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Pronunciation.... ("Pat Babcock")
  re:  Hot break/Cold break (Denis Barsalo)
  cider (jonesmd)
  Metallized Bubble Wrap (C.D. Pritchard)
  Pitching routine (blacksab)
  Cider Draft, Yeast Farms, GFI's (HuskerRed)
  Oxygenator ("Thomas A. Wideman")
  PU no longer brewed in wood? (STROUDS)
  cheers (The Wallinger Family)
  Health effects of "Green Beer"/Yeast trub ("David C. Rinker")
  Homebrew (Andrei Ohlmus)
  Heater Pads & Autolysis (Charlie Scandrett)
  Hardy Country Bitter (Jeff Hewit)
  Carageen Mould (Mold) (Hugh Graham)
  Freezing yeast (Joel King)
  RIMS Plans (Jeff Hewit)
  Electric Brewery (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Slow sparge/ Lauter FAQ Part A (Charlie Scandrett)
  Beer Cruise (Big Dog Brewing)
  white yeast and aeration (Rob Lauriston)
  cornelius sanitation, counterflow cleaning, copper ion precipitates (Capt Hawkins)
  Dave's gnats (CLAY)
  Bayou Classic burner (Barry M Wertheimer)
  RE:Cornstarch Beer-mash schedule question. ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  Lauter FAQ Extract "B" (Charlie Scandrett)
  "Covered Open"=Closed, so skim from your primary bucket (Brian Pickerill)
  First kegging (avs)
  Oktoberfest (Ray Ownby)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 26 Jan 96 23:56:14 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: Plastic Boilers, Electric Brewery >from: DONBREW at aol.com > > ... Why not use a control from an electric >stovetop? They work on the same principle, but mechanical instead of >electrical. They have a bi-metal strip with a heater coil on it so that the >contact goes intermittently at a rate determined by how far the contact has >to move. > However, I am a gadget head so your idea does appeal to me. FWIW a stove >control costs about $25 or can be had off of an old stove for free. How much >do think your circuit might cost? > >Don Glad you pointed up the stovetop control idea. I sort of forgot about that. Or maybee I was concerned about stress on the element because of full on/off power and all the thermal shock. I may give it a try as I do think it will be the easiest and least expensive method to control the heater element. Scorching hasn't been a problem with my setup so I guess full on/off may be fine. The SSR will cost about $26.50, the dimmer about $5.00. The box and wires and bridge rectifier a few dollars. I guess the whole thing could be built for $50.00 or less. One thing I did not mention was that eventually the dimmer could be controlled by simply adding a photo-optical variable resistor (or whatever it's called) across the potentiometer in the dimmer. This would allow electronic control by using a temperature sensor and a controller of some kind. I guess I just like to tinker and it seems like fun to be able to control that 4500 watts with electronics. P.S. Today 01-26-96 I have bench wired and tested the SSR controller and it works. I am planing to test it under full load tomorrow. >from: Geza T Szenes/IPL <Geza_T_Szenes/IPL.IPL at notes.ipl.ca> > >I have read your posting in the HB Digest regarding the boiler in a plastic >bucket. This is something I have also been considering, but I need some more >info, and a more complete idea of the construction: > >1. how far from the bottom is the heating element? > I mounted it about 2 inches from the bottom. The closer the better but leave enough room in case the element tends to sag. You do not want the element to touch the bottom. >2. how do you mount it on the plastic so that there are no leaks? What kind of >hardware to do this? > Drill a hole. I used the paddle type bits made for wood. Works very well to drill the plastic. >3. how do you wire it to a cord so you can plug it in? > The element has two screw terminals built in. >4. are there 110 volt versions of these heating element available? Where is a >good place to get these water heating elements? Can I use something like a >stove heating element, but how would it be mounted? > Yes 110 volt versions do exist. I got mine from heating-plumbing department of Home Depot. Any good hardware store should also have it. There are two versions one is mounted through a single 1.25 inch hole. The other uses a square flange. Get the one that mounts through a single hole. Should pay about $10.00 for it. >5. What would be the minimum watts required to work in a 110 volt set up? ( I >would only boil about 6-7 gallons to make a 5 gallon batch, and I would not >need as vigourous a boil as you describe) > You may find a 1500 watt for 110 volts. But I don't know if it would be enough to attain a boil. If you insulated the bucket with the foil coated bubble wrap it probably would be enough power to do the boil. Also if you insist on 110 volts - have a good supply of fuses on hand. This will put a good strain on your wiring and any additional loads on the circuit will have you quite friendly with your fuse box. >From: KennyEddy at aol.com >Subject: Plastic Electric Brewery > >A much simpler approach might be to make any of a number of parallel and >series combinations of *many* elements (they're fairly cheap) with simple >switches across them. Throwing the switches in various combinations would >generate different power levels. High heat to initiate boiling, lower heat >to maintain it, that sort of thing. Also, reducing the overall power while >"spreading out" the power distribution results in lower power densities and >diminished worrying about scorching. While not continuously variable like a >light dimmer would be, it would at least offer three or four levels and might >be completely adequate. Yes I considered multi elements but the picture in my mind was like those pots used for planting strawberrys with holes all over the sides (oooh! shudder). >The compatibility of the various plastics with boiling temperatures is a >concern and if anyone has information in addition to DonBrew's figures I'd be >interested to hear about it. Also, whether "plastic taste" might somehow be >imparted by using plastic for boiling wuold be a question. A lightly-hopped The first thing I did was to boil up some water for about two hours, cool it and then taste it. Yumm, good water with no off taste. I figured if any plastic taste leeched through that it would affect the LME that was stored in it so that's why I thought the LME container was safe. >From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca >Subject: Electric Brewery > >Controllers for stove top elements work just as well for hot water >emelents. They are cheap (<$20), readily available at Hoem Depot etc. > (or off old stoves) and easy to install. Just make sure that the >amps drawn by the element aren't too high. The controllers I found >were rated to 20 amps at 220V, so they should be good up to 4400W. > >I have been using one on my keg for the last 1.5 years and it works >great. > If you are not considering any form of automatic control then yes, I think you just can't beat the stovetop controll. Ronald J. La Borde "Never wrestle with a pig. You'll both Metairie, LA get dirty, and the pig enjoys it." Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 07:44:58 +0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Pronunciation.... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Just a curiousity: I've heard the word diacetyl pronounced three different ways. die-UH-set-ul where the "cet" is pronounced like the one in acetylene (my personal favorite), Die-UH-seet-il where the "cet" is pronounced like the one in acetic, and Die-ASS-it-il where the - well, you get the picture... My curiosity is this: how many pronounce it each way? Where are you from? Is this a regional thing? And, finally, does anyone have a dictionary entry or the like showing the "correct" pronunciation. Let's treat the first three as a "survey", and the last as a bonus question. Private e-mail, please - I'll summarize. See ya! Pat Babcock in Canton, Michigan (Western Suburb of Detroit) pbabcock at oeonline.com URL: http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/ Sysop: HomeBrew University - Motor City Campus (313)397-7915 8,n,1, 24 hours daily. Immediate and full access at initial logon! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 08:02:37 -0500 From: denisb at CAM.ORG (Denis Barsalo) Subject: re: Hot break/Cold break In HBD #1946 John Wilkinson said: > How do I get rid of hot break or cold break? Now I know there are as many ways to do this as there are ways to brew so I can only comment on the method I've been using. After I finish boiling my 6 or so gallons of wort, I whirlpool the hops and I siphon the wort through a round copper manifold and a CF chiller into a bucket. This leaves behind lots of hot break material, most of it clinging to the spent hops. I seal the bucket and let it sit for a couple of hours. By then, there is a definate "layer" of cold break material on the bottom. I then rack off it to a carboy, pitch and ferment as usual. This method worked great with a couple of lagers that I've brewed recently. Seeing how lagers take a little longer to ferment, and spend a bit more time in the primary, I wanted to remove as much break material as possible. With ales, I usually don't bother with the cold break removal. I pitch in the first bucket, then rack to a secondary 3 or 4 days after fermenting in the primary. What do others do? Denis Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 07:22:12 -0600 (CST) From: jonesmd at SLUVCA.SLU.EDU Subject: cider While it may not be strictly proper to inquire about this here, I do wonder if anyone could provide me with a decent recipe for a dry cider (along the lines of Woodpecker or Dry Blackthorn). The American varieties which have recently hit the market in this area are syrupy and disappointing, and the imports frankly cost too much. I would be most grateful. Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 96 09:16 EST From: cdp at chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard) Subject: Metallized Bubble Wrap John Plamer posted in HBD 1943: >Metallized Bubble Wrap: >I used this around my Mash Keg. It does indeed succomb to temps above 180F. The >lower 4-5 inches has shriveled from the heat of the burner in the year that its >been on there. I think it helps a little bit, but there are probably better >insulating materials. I investigated this material as a retrofit insulation material on a project at work and did a bit of burn testing. I've done a fair amount of testing and this stuff is downright scarry when it burns. The plastic bubbles present alot of fuel surface area and the flame front often races through the material much faster then one might expect due to the channeling effect of the alumimum facings. The material is very easily ignited at raw edges where the plastic bubble material is exposed and fairly easily ignited through the aluminum facing. DO NOT USE IT ANYWHERE NEAR A FLAME! I use it to insulate my RIMS. After 2 batches and 2 wet runs w/o grain, the only degradation is a discoloration of the aluminum around the RIMS lid- probably due to acid vapors from the mash. I also use it around my internally heated sparge water tank (170 degF) and haven't noticed anything untoward. For high temps, the best stuff is ceramic fiber insulation (e.g. Cerafiber- no connection ect...). Kinda pricey tho'. C.D. Pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 10:36:16 -0600 From: blacksab at siu.edu Subject: Pitching routine Hello all! I've changed my pitching routine somewhat because I'm getting a massive cold break from my CF wort chiller, and I'd like to have my technique critiqued by the collective. What I'm doing is to transfer the chilled wort (~45*F) to a carboy overnight in order to settle the cold break and for the temperature to raise to 60-65*F. Then I rack to a primary, and pitch my yeast in the morning. Let me say that so far, I've had no problems and I've had some of the shortest lag phases ever. But since I just started doing this (2 batches), I haven't tasted any beer yet. Here goes: 1. I start with a 1-qt. starter just after high kraeusen. 2. I have a ~40-ft. counterflow wort chiller that is able to cool the wort to ~45*F. 3. I fill, soak, and then evacuate Iodophor from a clean carboy with CO2 using one of those orange carboy caps with a gas connection on the long tube, and a racking cane on the other. (I've got a narrow-range secondary regulator that will hold the pressure at 2 o 3 lbs.) 4. Now, before I start filling the CO2-purged carboy, I transfer my 1-qt. starter to a 1-gal. jug, and use the first runnings from the WC to fill it with brewing wort to acclimate my yeast to the specific wort I'm going to be brewing with. When filled, I put on an airlock and set aside. 5. Now I'm ready to chill the wort. I switch carboy caps and insert a different racking cane that reaches all the way down to the bottom of the carboy. This in turn is attached to my pump which is on the cold side of the WC. When I turn on the pump (I control it with a fan motor controller), cold wort is gently introduced into the CO2-filled carboy--no oxygen is added at this time. I fill to the top and add an airlock. I allow this to settle overnight. In the morning HUGE amounts of cold break have settled to the bottom and the temperature has raised to 60-65*F. 6. In the morning, I transfer this to a primary fermenter, adding copious amounts of air, and pitch with the gallon starter which by now is nearly crawling out of the bottle. My lag times are something like 6-8 hours for a good kraeusen to begin to develop. All comments are welcome, and thanks for taking the time to read this, Harlan ====================================================================== Harlan Bauer ...malt does more than Milton can <blacksab at siu.edu> To justify God's ways to man. Carbondale, IL --A.E. Houseman ====================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 11:13:44 -0500 From: HuskerRed at aol.com Subject: Cider Draft, Yeast Farms, GFI's After reading several post on fermenting apple cider form the local orchards, I got 4 gallons and a packet of champagne yeast. Rehydrated according to the packet, pitched it in the boy, and presto no changeo, nothing for ten days. I then went to the quart I was going to use to prime with and it's label says '1/10th of 1% benzoate of soda added (a preservative)'. So, did the soda kill my yeast as soon as it hit the cider? If so, now what? Is the soda unstable at high temps and can be boiled off like chlorine? Should I just rack it off, leaving the yeast, and forget the whole thing ever happened? We've all heard of the Crabtree Effect, is this the Apple Tree Effect!?! - --- I need some info on how to start a yeast farm where I can take a portion and make starters. How often and how much to feed the farm? Also, how is yeast conditioned for wort? Is this done by making the starter at the same OG as the wort or is there more to it? Are there some FAQ's on this somewhere? - --- I have seen a few post about using electric water heater elements. I would suggest installing a GFI breaker to protect yourselves. A GFI breaker monitors the current flow in and out. When there is a difference, ie current flow through you, the breaker trips. A two pole GFI cost about $100, considerably cheaper than a casket! Jason Henning Kansas City huskerred at aol.com Sometimes we brew in particular way but our own. Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Jan 96 11:25:32 EST From: "Thomas A. Wideman" <75710.1511 at compuserve.com> Subject: Oxygenator >>>Guy Mason sez, >>>Has anyone tried the Oxygenator from Liquid Bread? It looks like >>>a great way to aerate but I'd like to hear from current users >>>before parting with any cash. If that's the plastic thingy that goes on the end of the racking hose, which divides the flow into a flat sheet-like spray, yes I have. (Obviously, I am using it without knowing who made it). FWIW, I love it. I get excellent aeration - - the yeasties really take off quite well, non-scientifically comparing via memory to other batches. I think it's a very nice solution to the problem -- quick and dirty, and fairly cheap. Cheers, Tom Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:35:05 -0400 (EDT) From: STROUDS at cliffy.polaroid.com Subject: PU no longer brewed in wood? Twice in the last few weeks, Al K has referred to Pilsner Urquell being brewed in wood vessels. Ron Vavruska, a member of our homebrew club, visited Pilsner Urquell last summer. He toured the brewery and reported that PU no longer uses wood at any stage in the brewing process. When did this happen? To quote from an article he wrote for our newsletter: "The first stop [on the tour] was to see the mash tuns and kettles in full operation. Then it was underground to visit a portion of the 7 kilometers of tunnels dug by hand during the last century. The tunnels house the huge open wooden primary fermenters and the many wooden lagering kegs. Alas, these marvelous wooden vessels are no longer used. During January 1994 the brewery switched over to an all stainless steel operation for fermenting and lagering with only 4 weeks of lagering instead of the traditional 8 weeks of lagering. I know you're thinking that the beer can't be as good. Well you would be partially right because the guide told us that the first batch from the stainless steel wasn't any good. The brewers worked the remainder of the year to perfect their skills using this new method and considered it accomplished by January 1995 when they hosted an international professional brewers convention. The brewers were equally divided in saying the beer produced in wood was better, the beer produced in stainless steel was better and that it didn't make any difference." So PU hasn't been brewed in wood for at least a year - that means that we should be getting the SS brewed version in the US any day now :-). Steve Stroud Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 11:30:47 -0600 From: The Wallinger Family <wawa at datasync.com> Subject: cheers Here is the compilation of international toasts and phrases. I hope the bandwidth isn't too much for you. I plan to add a link to this from our homebrew club home page: www.datasync.com/~wawa/gcbb.html. Country,Toast,Pronunciation,Translation Bahamas,,,Cheers Bali,Selemat,say-lamat Brazil,Saude,sa-ood-eh Bulgaria,Nazdrave,nahz-drove-eh,To your health! China,Kan pei,kan-pei,Bottoms up! Czech,Na Zdravi,nahz-drah-vee,To your health! Denmark,Skal,skol,A salute to you! Finland,Kippis,,Cheers! France,A votre sante,ah vote santay,To your Health France,A le votre,Ah leh vote,And to yours (response) Gaelic,Slainthe,Slan-jeh,Health! Germany,Prosit,pro-zit,Cheers! Great Britian,,,Cheers Greece,Stin Ygai-sou,Stin ee-ya-soo,To your Health! Hawaii,Kamau,kama-u,Here's how! Hungary,Egeszsegedre,,To your Health Iceland,Skal,skol,A salute to you! Ireland,Slainte,slauntca,Cheers, to your health Ireland,Slainte is Saul agat,Slauwne-cheh-iss sole agat,Health and life = to you Israel,L'chaim,la-kiam,To life! Italy,Alla tua salute,,To your health! Italy,Cin-cin,,All good things for you! = =20 Japan,Kan pai,,kan-pie,Bottoms up Kenya,Kwa afya yako,kwa-afee-ya yah-ko Korea,Gun bai,kun buy,Bottoms up Malaysia,Yam seng,yam seng Mandarin,Gan bei,,Drain the glass Mexico,Salud,sah-lood,Bottoms up Morocco,Sahrtek,sah-tek,To your health! Netherlands,,,Cheers New Zealand,,,Cheers Norway,Skal,skol,A salute to you! Philippines,Mubuhay,Mah-boo-hay,Long life! Poland,Na zdrowie,nahz-drove-eh,To your health Portugal,A sua saude,,To your health! Romania,Noroc,,Good luck! Russia,Za vashe,z-dorovye,To your health! Saudia Arabia,Hanian,Congratulations! Scotland,Slainte mhoiz,, Good health! Singapore,Yam seng,,To your continuing success!=09 Spain,Salud,sah-lood,To your health! Sweden,Skal,skol,A salute to you! Tanzania,Kwa afya yako,kwa-afee-ya yah-ko Thailand,Chai yo,ch-aye yog,Victory Thailand,Chook Dee,,Good luck Turkey,Serefinize,ser-ay-fin-eeze,To your honor! Uruguay,Salud,sah-lood Wales,Hwyll,hoyle,Best of luck, Have fun, cheers Wales,Lechyd da,yacki da,God be with you Wales,,bo-bein Yugoslavia,Ziveli,shiv-elli,To your health! =20 Phrases A nautical one: "Splice the Mainbrace" "Heute rot, morgen tot", German for "Today red, morning dead" " Here's to you as good as you are and here's to me as bad as I am but as good as you are and as bad as I am I'm as good as you are as bad as I am" "Here's looking up your kilt..." "Here's looking up your old address..." "Down the hatch..." "Over the lips and past the gums, Look out liver, here it comes!" "Sko/l"! (the slash should go through the o, fwwiw), which is apparently = short for "May you drink from the skull (skol) of your enemy." It's an = old viking toast. "Champange to real friends, and real pain to Sham friends" "To the last czar of the Russians, for while the masses where penniless, = he was nickel-less (Nikolaus)" "Salud, amor, y pesetas; y tiempo para gustarlos", Spanish for "Health, = love, and money; and time to enjoy them." credits: Rich Byrnes, Joel King, Brian Colgan, P. Fenesey, Cory Wright, = Russell Mast, Bob Waterfall, Bart Malloy, and Jim Larsen. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 13:07:36 -0500 (EST) From: "David C. Rinker" <dcrink at widomaker.com> Subject: Health effects of "Green Beer"/Yeast trub It is interesting that the discussion of these two topics coincided perfictly with my purchase of Eric Warner's _German Wheat Beer_. In this excellent book Warner address both of these issues, if only in passing. On p.8 Warner referrs to a 1989 book written in German called the _Handbook of Brewery Practices_. According to Warner's recounting, consumption of more that 30g of yeast per day can raise the levels of uric acid in the blood and, over time such behavior could lead to gout. However, Werner also points out that the average Weissbier has only 4g per liter--this would necessitate the habitual ingestion of over 7 L daily to threaten any problems. Perhaps this finding is outdated, but even if not, I can't imagine that the yeast levels of "green beer" could be significantly higher. As far as "trub" goes, Tracy is of course correct about the word's German origins. However, the others who were so quickly chastized for using the word vis-a-vis the kraeusen stage were also, according to Werner, correct. On p.73 he mentions that during the so-called hop drive (a phase preceeding high kraeusen in which the fermenting yeast carry hop resins to the beer's surface) some trub is also caught in fray, and is likewise brought to the top. This trub is then removed along with the resins. Cheers, David Rinker Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 12:04:27 +1100 From: Andrei Ohlmus <aohlmus at pcug.org.au> Subject: Homebrew Homebrew information __________________________________________________________ Andrei Ohlmus aohlmus at pcug.org.au (06) 288 2636 - --- Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 11:59:46 +1100 From: merino at cynergy.com.au (Charlie Scandrett) Subject: Heater Pads & Autolysis Russ Synder posts, RS> Use a "Brew Belt" available at homebrew shops. (Mine had it, but I RS>didn't buy one) RS> Use a heating pad set under the fermenter set on low heat, put a towel RS> between the heating pad and the fermenter if it gets too hot. Personally, I would emphatically *not* recommend heat pads *under* the fermenter. In my wanderings through the labyrinths of protein chemistry I have found that, like an espionage message, yeast contain the mechanism of their own destruction. They have, bound within the cell, a class of protelytic(breaking down protein) enzymes that degrade and disolve the dead yeast. This autolysis process can be triggered by some enzymes at temperatures approaching 40C.(Proteinase ysc A) In the boundary layer of wort at the bottom of a fermenter warmed to 25C, these temperatures are easily achievable. This layer also contains the yeast which prevents convection. The belt type electric warmer is a much better idea, it promotes convection, reducing the boundary layer. It also affects much less yeast. If you are getting yeasty flavours, an electric pad may be the problem. Charlie (Brisbane, Australia) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 21:32:51 -0500 From: jhewit at freenet.vcu.edu (Jeff Hewit) Subject: Hardy Country Bitter I just finished a bottle of Hardy Country bitter, brewed by Eldridge Pope & Co. in Dorchester Dorset England. It's pretty good stuff! It's bottle conditioned, and has a layer of yeast on the bottom of the bottle. The neck label even provides "instructions" on pouring so the sediment doesn't finds it way into the glass. The questions I have for the collective are: - What strain of yeast is in the bottle? - Is the bottle yeast the same as used in brewing? - Has anyone successfully propogated this yeast? - Any suggestions for cloning this fine ale? TIA for any info. - -- - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Jeff Hewit Eat a live toad first thing in the morning, Midlothian, Virginia and nothing worse will happen to you for the rest of the day. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 01:11:52 -0700 (MST) From: Hugh Graham <hugh at lamar.ColoState.EDU> Subject: Carageen Mould (Mold) Here's a waste of a valuable brewing ingredient and bandwidth: 1/2 oz dried carageen (i.e. Irish moss, L. Chondras crispus) 30 fl oz milk Grated rind of 1 lemon 1 oz sugar Wash moss and soak in water for 10 mins, drain. Warm up the milk with the lemon and sugar for 10 mins. Mix with moss and simmer 20 mins. Strain and pour into a wetted jelly mould (US: mold) and leave until set. Turn out and serve with fruit or cream. Paraphrased from British Cookery, (Lizzie Boyd, ed. 2nd Edn., Christopher Helm, 1977, p417) for review purposes only of course. My favo(u)rite cook book. Let me know if you try this recipe, I confess it doesn't appeal to me.... Apparently irish moss is used in this fashion in Ireland and remote parts of Scotland, though I don't remember such a dish from my (remote) childhood in north Scotland... Bet this doesn't make it into the Cat's Meow. - ----*****---- ObBeer: Just started kegging our beer. The beer from the kegs tastes noticeably better than a similar beer from bottles. I attribute this to either a) better carbonation level in the poured beer i.e. lower but with good head (TM). b) a couple of weeks of cold conditioning in the brewery/garage. Still, we're not giving up on bottling, it is a painless process for us with a good supply of free bottles, teamwork, our access to a large autoclave and a bench capper, and it makes many more types of beer available at any given time. One keg is going to a superbowl party later today. So who cares if the game is dull? Hugh (shortly to move our brewery to a luxurious outhouse). Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Jan 96 11:21:39 EST From: Joel King <76220.2644 at compuserve.com> Subject: Freezing yeast In HB1941, ge083 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. M. Elliott) asks if glycerin is the same as glycerol, and how to use it to freeze yeast. Yes, they are the same, but you can freeze yeast easier and quicker using sucrose (table sugar). Sterilize 3/8 cup sucrose in one cup of water by boiling 15 minutes. Mix equal volumes of yeast slurry and cooled sucrose solution, then freeze. Thaw rapidly by immersion in warm water. If you do find glycerine, follow the same procedure, but use 1/3 cup glycerine to 2/3 cup water. I recommend also that you read "Chemicals for Preserving and Freezing Yeast" by Maribeth Raines in the 1992 Zymurgy special issue "Gadgets and Equipment". Joel King "Give a man a beer, he wastes an hour. Teach him how to brew, and he wastes a lifetime." Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 13:04:13 -0500 From: jhewit at freenet.vcu.edu (Jeff Hewit) Subject: RIMS Plans I am seriously thinking about setting up a RIMS. I have read a lot about these systems, here and in other sources, but I don't recall seeing any detailed plans for a complete system. There have been details regarding components, which is very helpful for those in process of building or modifying a system, but not as helpful for one starting from scratch. Does anyone know where there are such plans, in cyberspace or the print world? I would especially like to see plans that include diagrams and pictures, since I have not yet seen a RIMS in the flesh. Also, are there any vendors who sell complete RIMS setups? Depending on an analysis of cost/effort for building a system vs buying one, I might take the lazy way out. Any comments, suggestions, words of encouragement, etc. will be greatly appreciated. - -- - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Jeff Hewit Eat a live toad first thing in the morning, Midlothian, Virginia and nothing worse will happen to you for the rest of the day. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 15:01:57 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: Electric Brewery >From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at chemcon.internet-eireann.ie> >Subject: Electric boiler >To: rlabor at lsumc.edu > >Why go to all the trouble and expense of controlling big ac? Why not >just get a 1 kW element and wire it up? Use it instead of your 4.5 kW to >keep the boil going. >_____________________________________________________________________________ I do not think that 1KW element would be enough power to give a decent boil, if any. With the full 4500 watts it still takes about 15 minutes to bring my 7 or 8 gals. to a boil. If a boil was eventualy reached it would take much too long and I would not want to add any more time to the brewing schedule. Also I have something in mind on a grander scale than just boiling. I would like to come up with a design that would also allow some sort of temperature regulation. Regulation as opposed to control. With regulation one could have a temperature sensing element connected to an electronic regulator that would send an analog signal to a varistor connected in parallel with the rheostat in the dimmer. Building the high power controller is the first step to this goal. Ronald J. La Borde "Never wrestle with a pig. You'll both Metairie, LA get dirty, and the pig enjoys it." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:35:12 +1100 From: merino at cynergy.com.au (Charlie Scandrett) Subject: Slow sparge/ Lauter FAQ Part A I recently wrote, >5/ Lauter/sparge slowly, especially for rice adjuncts. This reduces tannins >as we know (as does low pH), but it also reduces head destroying >lipids(oils). Protein rests are often blamed for the effects of these >lipids. <SNIP> And Algis Korzonas replied, AK>Are you sure about this? Slow laeutering will *reduce* tannins and lipids? AK>I would say that slow lautering would give *more* opportunity for tannins AK>and lipids to be extracted. <SNIP> is slow sparging going to make that big a difference? CS- (not really for tannins, most have already been extracted, more on this later) AK>On the other hand, I think that a reasonable pH (5.0 to 5.5) will take care AK>of any tannin extraction concerns so that's probably a moot point, but I AK>believe that to reduce lipids, you want to recirculate the first runnings AK>more (this is from memory -- see Micah Millspaw and Bob Jones' article on AK>this in Zymurgy about two or three years ago).CS-(Before my time, more later) Part of what I posted is wrong or confusing, I apologise for the sloppy writing, I seem to have begun one sentence and finished another- too much coffee too late. Let us preview parts of the Lauter FAQ and correct them as necessary. "Extract A" from LAUTER FAQ (under construction) FAQ 2/ How is the "extract" extracted? At the end of mashing the *already soluble* concentrated extract (SG~1.100) is *uniformly dispersed between and within* the grain particles, large and small. This "extract" is a mixture of sugars, soluble proteins, mineral salts, lipids and polyphenols. There is also some coagulated protein (hot break) dispersed throughout the bed in a mash/lauter, and in the top layer of a stand alone lauter. Small particles are fairly even in a mash/lauter and in the upper layers of a lauter. The dense wort partially floats the particles and the first runoff is simply fluid dynamics, it runs slowly down through the bed. Because there is no concentration gradient between the particles and wort, and because of high viscosity, some extract remains *within and partly between* the particles. Sparge water is continuously added to maintain bouyancy and remove this remaining extract. We know from osmotic theory that a solvent (like water) with low solutes will pass through a semi-permeable membrane towards a greater concentration, evening the two concentrations. As the dilute sparge water (SG~1.000) chases the first runnings down through the bed it first dilutes and washes out the remaining extract *between* the particles. It then passes *into* the very permeable pieces of malt, diluting and extracting a portion of the solutes there. After most already soluble extract has been extracted, sparge water begins again the process of hydrolysing and dissolving remaining starch, proteins, minerals, lipids and polyphenols in the "spent" grains. This process is accelerated at temperatures over 77C. As the mineral salts raise sparge water pH, extraction of *some* polyphenols is accelerated. Acidifying sparge water before lautering buys a little time, carbonate hardness below 25 ppm is considered adequate. Unconverted starch can cause haze, lipids flavour and head problems, and polyphenols haze and atringency problems. Some already coagulated protein is removed but this is not problematic as freshly hydrolysised high molecular weight protein can be. These "undesirable" extractions begin first in the small particles, then the large particles, at the top of the bed, then the bottom. Lautering *slowly* maintains a more even concentration gradient and slows small particle extraction until large particles can be penetrated. This increases overall fermentable extraction. The domino in this undesirable extraction process is the removal of most already soluble extract. Thus a termination point of 1 Plato (SG~1.004) in final runnings is commonly used to forstall undesirable extraction. If a fast runoff is used, a higher termination point must be used (2 Plato), sacrificing significant extract in the large particles. To prevent "channeling" (sparge runoff through narrow channels) and to prevent grain bed compaction and posssibly a "stuck" lauter, runoff and sparge is also conducted *slowly*. FAQ 2/How slowly should I runoff? <SNIP> (this contains various methods of calculating optimum runoff) The next "Extract B" of this FAQ will be lipids.(fatty acids) Extract "C" will be polyphenols. Charlie (Brisbane, Australia) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 17:02:33 -0700 (MST) From: Big Dog Brewing <mcastlem at carbon.cudenver.edu> Subject: Beer Cruise At some point in the past I seem to remember someone talking about a beer tasting cruise. Do these marvelous trips really exist? Does anyone have any information about them? All info will be greatly appreciated. Mark W. Castleman Brewmaster, Big Dog Brewing Cooperative-West Never laugh at live dragons. --The Hobbit. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 16:33 PST From: robtrish at mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston) Subject: white yeast and aeration "Nice white yeast" I've heard it so often, but what does it mean? I just added in-line oxygen aeration to my system and my yeast is now white when it settles down in a propagating mason jar. Even when fed with autoclaved non-aerated wort starters, the yeast is much whiter than it was when I did the splash-it-in and shake-the-carboy aeration. I understand that yeast health can change over generations as well as from batch to batch. So a couple of generations of poor (oxygen) nutrition from starters might be tolerated. Perhaps that's why re-pitching all of the yeast from one batch to the next gives good results for a few generations, overpitched or not. Anyway, I think that the whiteness of the yeast is due to the aeration, but why? Trub can make yeast look brown, but this is white settled yeast. Wyeast 1028 popped last summer and fed since, to be specific. Why is it white? Absence of cell wall scarring? - Rob Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 20:31:54 -1000 (KST) From: Capt Hawkins <25fsbflt at emh.osan.af.mil> Subject: cornelius sanitation, counterflow cleaning, copper ion precipitates 1;2cn1;2c1;2c Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:33:13 -0500 (EST) From: CLAY at prism.clemson.edu Subject: Dave's gnats Oooh! A bug question! I can't resist! Since Dave is brewing in the shower, I suspect that they're psychodids or "drain flies." If so, they'll be dark with short oval wings with a fringe of dark hair around the edges. They live in the scum growing inside the drain. Control: sanitation - clean the drain with a stiff brush to remove the goo, follow up with caustic drain cleaner and then lots of boiling-hot water. They'll also breed in potted plants or anywhere else that there's been water standing long enough to accumulate the goo upon which they feed. Get back to me if you'd like more info about these fascinating creatures ;-) Regards, Cam Lay Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:50:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Barry M Wertheimer <wertheim at UTKVX.UTCC.UTK.EDU> Subject: Bayou Classic burner Whilst browsing throught the local Home Despot the other day, I happened upon the Bayou Classic burner stand, Sportsman's model. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this device? Barry Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 09:08:36 -0500 From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at galen.med.virginia.edu> Subject: RE:Cornstarch Beer-mash schedule question. Gary Kuyat submitted his formula for a cornstarch beer which sounded very interesting. I don't have any arguement with it just a question about the mash technique. After mashing 2 hours at 145 would there be anything left to convert with the decoction and rise to 155 ? Rick Pauly Nuclear Med Tech Charlottesville,VA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 00:48:24 +1100 From: merino at cynergy.com.au (Charlie Scandrett) Subject: Lauter FAQ Extract "B" This is the next extract of the Lauter FAQ (under construction). Don't bother saving them, they are in no particular order and it will be found later, complete and corrected, at The Brewery and the Stanford archives. Please send email for any corrections. FAQ 8/What are lipids and how to control them? These are fatty acids and sterols arising from malt, stale hops and yeast metabolism. In malt they are 3.5% by weight, with 60% of that in Aleurone layer, atached to the Pericarp. This is the hardest part of malt and usually forms the largest pieces in grist. Only about 2% of these malt lipids make it into wort lipids, typically 50 to 120 ppm. They are saturated, unsaturated and necessary for yeast nutrition in cell building, which consumes significant oxygen metabolising the saturated ones. Without adequate oxygen for this path, aldehyde and fusel alcohol production is stimulated. The Free Fatty acids (C-12 to C-18.3) supress ester formation in *wort* at about 3.5 ppm, but have negative head stability effects in *beer* at 0.5 ppm. Fortunately yeast normally consumes them to below this level in beer. Thus, achieving the correct balance of lipids in wort is delicate. Lipids pass into the wort both as solubles and, as insolubles, they form a considerable portion (up to 50%) of "cold break" in colloidal complex with phenols and proteins, and can be adsorbed by yeast from this cold break. The conflicting and sometimes controversial results of investigations into the necessity of cold break for yeast metabolism probably comes from the dramatically different levels of lipids extracted by lauter/mash runoff techniques. Because of the flavour, staling and head stability problems of excesses of *some* lipids ( triacylglycerols, free fatty acids, linoelic acid), I would suggest keeping them low as possible at the lauter stage, and then removing the last of the cold break after fermentation has begun, if at all before final racking. Using these colloidal(semi-soluble) sources of lipids for yeast nutrition (both aerobic and anaerobic) means that any excess precipitates out of the maturing beer. To reduce lauter lipids 1/ Recycle the initial part of the first runnings for clarity, cloudy first runnings contains often 5 times the usual lipid level. Recycle any cloudy runoff after cutting the grain bed. 2/ Terminate sparge at 1.5 Plato (SG 1.006), this prevents further lipid hydrolysing from the larger aleurone/pericarp particles in the grain bed. The last runnings have increased levels of lipids. The ratio of lipid to other extraction is dramatically higher, favouring linoelic acid, a staling suspect. 3/ Runoff and sparge slowly, faster flow promotes the extraction of lipids. Strainmaster(TM) filters are notorious for this. 4/ Time efficient mash schedules. Excessivly long mashes will extract greater quantities of lipids. Return to table of contents
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by BSUVC.bsu.edu From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Subject: "Covered Open"=Closed, so skim from your primary bucket ... > Dave Ludwig said: "The presence of bitters got me thinking >though since my beers seem to have a certain harshness to them which may be >partially the result of my leaving everything in the beer. As far as open >fermentation, I wouldn't expose anyone's beer to my basement brewery >environment considering my workshop, garbage storage, beercan recycling >operation, cat litterbox, etc, all contribute to a pretty nasty air quality." ... Dave, Why not just carry the carboy to a fairly clean-aired location and skim with your current setup? I don't think there is any difference in "covered open" fermentation and in what you are doing, really. (Don't tell anyone, but covered is pretty much the same thing as closed. :) I say pop the cover (take it somewhere cleaner if you want) and check the krausen when the airlock gets going really good. You will probably see the "bitters" at that point and you can skim till your hearts content. Wishing you fast starts, quick ferments, low acetaldehyde and expected attenuation, - --Brian Pickerill, Muncie, IN "Dammit, yeast!, quit respiring on galactose and start fermenting my beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 16:45:17 +0100 From: avs at beta.fuji-ef.nl Subject: First kegging Hello, I'am a Dutch homebrewer for about 6 years now. I've made a trippel and I am going to bottle it. For the first time I want to use also a keg. I have a keg which can contain 5 liter (about 1.5 gallon ?). My question is: How much sugar should I use to prime the trippel in the keg ? There is no possibility to use extra CO2, only priming (?) should do it. Has anyone done this before ? Private E-mail is ok. Thanks, Albert "Sam's Brew" van Sambeek, The Netherlands. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:28:13 -0800 From: rownby at televar.com (Ray Ownby) Subject: Oktoberfest Greetings! I realize that Oktoberfest is still some months away, but the time to plan for it is now. Anyone who may be interested in going, a friend of mine and I have put together a pretty good package. If you're interested in details, email me and I'll give you some specifics. We will be leaving from Seattle, but don't let that stop you from coming; last time I went we had several people fly up from Califorina to go with us. This is not a business venture; I'm just in it for the beer (just to avoid any misunderstanding that I may be trying to advertise any commercial business). Hope to see you there. -Ray- rownby at televar.com Homepage: http://www.televar.com/~rownby -Ray Ownby- Moses Lake, WA Return to table of contents