HOMEBREW Digest #1962 Sat 17 February 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  yeast starter question (Paul Furnanz)
  Grainbags ("MacRae Kevin J")
  Re: Nylon stocking hop bag (Michael Demers)
  Re:boilers and heat conduction (Jerry Lee)
  Bulkhead fittings & all grain mashing (Jerry Lee)
  Mike's List of homebrew suppliers (Mike White)
  Corn Sugar Starter? ("Toler, Duffy L.")
  Re: nylons (Mike Uchima)
  new mash tun problems (Jeff Struman)
  Ideal grain bed depth (Jerry Lee)
  Re: Cole Parmer/high temp hoses (Hugh Graham)
  Gott mashing (Domenick Venezia)
  Heat only mashing ("Gregory, Guy J.")
  Sub-Zero Customized Refrige ("Jim Youngmeyer")
  Cheaper alternative (Gregory Blaha)
  (Fwd) Sam Adams, etc. ("Pat Babcock")
  Temp Controller HTML (Douglas Kerfoot)
  Dukes of Ale's Spring Thing (guyruth)
  Re: Mold on Porter? ("Norman C. Pyle")
  soldering, weighing, recipes (Gary Bud Melton)
  RE: Beer Bottle Labels (Robert Rogers)
  stupid-dog stout (Wallinger)
  History of Brewing in America ("Rick Gontarek, Ph.D.")
  Ice to cool wort (John Robinson)
  Time to chill wort in summer (Louis Gordon)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 10:30:28 -0800 From: Paul Furnanz <paul_furnanz at MENTORG.COM> Subject: yeast starter question Last Tuesday, I created a starter culture, because I was planning on brewing Friday night. In the meantime, my area (Salem, Oregon) had some pretty serious flooding. As a result of the flooding a we now have a drinking water shortage. It looks like it might go on for quite some time. I don't want to brew until the shortage is over. What should I do about my starter in the meantime? Should I just pitch it when the time comes, or do I need to do something special to get it going again? -Paul - -------- Paul Furnanz Phone: (503) 685-7000 (ext.1731) Mentor Graphics Corporation Email: paulf at wv.mentorg.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu Feb 15 13:43 EST 1996 From: "MacRae Kevin J" <kmacrae at UF2269P01.PeachtreeCityGA.ATTGIS.COM> Subject: Grainbags Newbie, first time poster alert! I'm planning to brew a dobble bock from C.Papazians book this weekend. I have brewed with specialty malts in the past, but in small quantities, using just a strainer. I now have a grain bag and not sure how to use it. Is it essentially a giant strainer? The plan was to steep the grains in my 5 gal. brewkettle. Dump the grains into the grainbag. Sparge into my bottling bucket, with the spigot open wide, plastic tube going to bottom of brewkettle, for no aeration of hot wort. Is this correct? Should I steep the grains in the grainbag in brewkettle, and slowly sparge into the same pot, removing the grainbag as soon as all sparge water is dumped? Should the bag sit on the bottom of the brewkettle or bottling bucket? Any help would be appreciated. kevin.macrae at PeachtreeCityGA.ATTGIS.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 13:41:59 -0500 From: Michael Demers <mdemers at ctron.com> Subject: Re: Nylon stocking hop bag Hello Group, Just read a post in HBD 1960 about using nylons (the type women wear) as hop bags. I would just like to caution everyone that most, if not all, nylons have dyes in them that you definitely would not want in your beer. I once used a section of an old pair of nylons as a filter for the bottom of my racking cane. I sanitized it by putting it in a bowl of water and microwaving it. When I did this the water in the bowl turned brown and I had to repeat the process several times using fresh water to get all of the dye out. So, if you're going to use nylons for hop bags I would strongly suggest that you pre-boil them to get all of the dye out of them first. Good Brewing, Mike Demers Home: mike at zachary.mv.com Firmware Engineer Office: mdemers at ctron.com Cabletron Systems, Inc. Merrimack, NH Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 10:56:33 -0800 From: jlee at esd.ray.com (Jerry Lee) Subject: Re:boilers and heat conduction >Regan in Sydney >I am looking to buy a 40 litre SS boiler, and have seen two types. >One is made of thin SS all round, and runs $160. The other has an >aluminium "sandwich" on the base, and costs $280 (!!!). So, in >terms of heat transfer etc, is it worth the expense to get the >better quality boiler? Ever since reading an article from one of your Ausie compatriots on steam, I have been converting and trying to fine tune my own steam system. My research condensed down is: the aluminum pot will give a give a better heat transfer but is a better heat transfer really necessary? You can just increase the btu a little with your burner. Any thermal engineers out there can help...but what I came up with is that you can make a 5 gal batch with 2 gallons of water in a steamer with 180,000 btu. It does not take double to make a 10 gal batch. Approximately 3 gal and if you have one of the 200,000 plus burners, you have everything you need. By the way...this includes coiling the SS steam tube back through the flame to superheat it. So back to the steam pressure cooker...since you are only going to have plain water at a fairly neutral ph, around 7, during steaming... you don't have to worry about leaching the aluminum (and any heavy metal would settle anyway)...you can get a completely aluminum cooker without the expense of the SS and still get the transfer. I wanted to give myself a 100% margin on my calulations because murphy has found a home in my brewery. I found a 21.5 qt (5.4 gal, app. 20 liters) for $117 at OSH - Orchard Supply Hardware. (805) 681-1500 - They are a chain so you might find them elswhere. NDA (Normal Disclaimers Apply - No Assoc. etc) The larger cookers were not on the shelf but the price difference was insignificant. ie the 15qt was $99! The 40 if you really need it should not be much more. -NDA The lids have a pressure guage, and a weighted pressure regulator with an emergency relief valve. When you look on the inside, there is a built up area that can be easily tapped for the steam outlet port without modifying any of the safety features. As I am still in the process of conversion/tuning any suggestions or modifications to the above would be helpful. ie how large of a manifold can I go with and still maintain enough pressure for mashing or a roiling boil? If I put the manifold under the tun screen can I replace the RIMS and how much pressure before I start to upset the grain bed? etc. etc. For those with an entrepreneural spirit...I would be very willing to pay for this type of information...so go write a book! I've searched the libraries and ordered book transfers throughout CA and still have questions about a good design. But I now have the information to work on boilers....yee ha. :-} TIA ===================================================== ~~~~~ / \ //\\\\\ / Jerry D. Lee, Jr. | SEPG Methods & Tools Chairman / {| ~ ~ |} / Raytheon ESD | E-Mail : jlee at eng.esd.ray.com \ | ^ | / 6380 Hollister Ave | Tel : 805-967-5511 ext2306 \ \ = / \ Goleta, CA 93117 | Fax : 805-964-9185 _/ - --/\-/\-- \ \ \/^\/ \+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=| Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 11:28:18 -0800 From: jlee at esd.ray.com (Jerry Lee) Subject: Bulkhead fittings & all grain mashing >russtj at mail.awi.net >I heated the water up to 170 degrees, transfered it to the sparging >bucket, then gravity fed it to the rotating sparging arm etc....as >expected the heat losses were large. > >Since my brewing budget is small, my thought on solving the problem is >to take my stock pot (thin stainless), punch a hole in the bottom.. I know I'm stating the obvious here but.... Start with hotter water...before the RIMS and now my current conversion to steam, (which will work with coolers on the mash & sparge) I used almost 190 degree water. See the previous HBDs (within the last 2-3 months) and see that others have actually used boiling water. I never got that high but the idea is the same. Also you might want to increase the insulation on your cooler if it is decreasing that quickly. I also used a small heating pad against the wall and then covered with towels held in place with a bungee cord. Save the stock pot for decoctions or infusions...its a better use. :-) ===================================================== ~~~~~ / \ //\\\\\ / Jerry D. Lee, Jr. | SEPG Methods & Tools Chairman / {| ~ ~ |} / Raytheon ESD | E-Mail : jlee at eng.esd.ray.com \ | ^ | / 6380 Hollister Ave | Tel : 805-967-5511 ext2306 \ \ = / \ Goleta, CA 93117 | Fax : 805-964-9185 _/ - --/\-/\-- \ \ \/^\/ \+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=| Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 13:50:05 -0600 From: mike at datasync.com (Mike White) Subject: Mike's List of homebrew suppliers Well you folks were right. I have recieved and replied to over 150 e-mail requests for my list of homebrew mail-order suppliers. Many of you have also asked for a copy of the final list when it is completed in a few months. (As of now the list is about 11 pages long, I expect the final list to be about 30 pages in length.) So to alleviate me from the burden of constantly having to reply to e-mail requests I have put the latest update of the list on one of my web pages. Set your browser to: http://www.datasync.com/~mike/cafe.html There you will find the latest update of the list, including the final version when it is available. I will no longer be accepting e-mail requests for the list. Thanks for all of your interest, it makes me feel I am doing something worthwhile. - ------------------------------------------------------------ Thought for the day: There's a thin line between Saturday night and Sunday morning.-J. Buffett - ------------------------------------------------------------ \\\|/// \\ - - // ( at at ) \ (_) / \ o / +----------------------oOOo-----oOOo-----+ | Mike White mike at datasync.com | | | +---------------------+--------Oooo------+ oooO ( ) ( ) ) / \ ( (_/ \_) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 96 14:02:00 PST From: "Toler, Duffy L." <TOLERD at cdnet.cod.edu> Subject: Corn Sugar Starter? Ray Louvier asks: >Hi, fellow brewers, I have a question about making a yeast starter. Is there >some reason why making a starter with corn sugar is not advised. I would like >to make a cleaner starter and it seems like corn sugar would not leave all >the break material in the starter. I'm thinking about a quart starter for a five >gallon batch. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the >great information this forum has been producing Yeast cannot leave by sugar alone......(or something like that) Yeast needs compounds besides sugars to function, which aren't provided by pure corn sugar. DME not only contains the sugar, but other nutrients as well. Your quart starter should work fine for a 5 gal. batch. When I'm brewing an ale, I usually just step a smack pack up to 1 pint and pitch that. (That's just me though!) Duffy Toler College of DuPage tolerd at cdnet.cod.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 14:35:30 -0600 From: uchima at fncrd8.fnal.gov (Mike Uchima) Subject: Re: nylons > >Can I use a nylon stocking (you know, the kind women wear) as a hop bag? I > >use pellet hops (good price in bulk) and would like to minimize the hassles > >of straining hop residue from the kettle and fermenters. My nylon mesh > >grain bag has a coarse texture that won't work for pellet hops. My wife has > >fairly clean feet, but can nylons be sanitized in bleach or iodophor? Are > >they "food grade?" Can they be boiled without falling apart? > > I would think the best way to know for sure is to take some spent hops or > grain, put it in the nylon material, and boil it in an old pot for an hour > or so. Just a couple of things to remember: I've used them a few times now for filtering out fruit pulp, "floaties", and such -- I tie one over the end of my racking cane. I've never tried using one as a hop/grain bag for boiling. As far as sanitizing goes: I could be wrong, but I don't think bleach or Idophor would do a very good job. The fine mesh seems to trap a lot of tiny air bubbles, which probably prevents contact sanitizers from getting at everything. I've tried boiling them for a couple of minutes to sanitize them; a lot of the color seemed to leach out into the water, but they seemed to be otherwise unharmed. IMO this is actually a pretty strong argument for pre-boiling them before trying to use them for anything beer related -- I'd rather not have any of the dye (or whatever it is) leaching into my beer! Food grade? Probably not, but close enough for me. You're not actually going to *eat* them, after all! (My uneducated guess would be that they're "non-toxic", but not strictly "food grade".) FWIW, anything that doesn't come off when you boil them probably won't leach into the beer in significant amounts. > 1) Yes, make sure to properly clean the nylons. You don't want a judge to > write: "Tastes slightly infected... Athelete's Foot??" Or just buy *new* ones -- they're pretty cheap. If it's too embarrassing, get your wife (or S.O.) to buy them for you. :-) > 2) Make ABSOLUTELY SURE to get the seams straight!!! I use seamless ones! > 3) You probably don't want your wife to read the post where you say she has > 'fairly clean' feet... Coulda been worse... he could have said something like "my wife's feet aren't too disgusting..." - -- Mike Uchima - -- uchima at fnal.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 14:05:45 -0700 From: brewshop at coffey.com (Jeff Struman) Subject: new mash tun problems This is my first 'contribution' to the digest, although it is actually a question. I have been brewing for about 4 years, and all grain brewing for about 1 year. I recently set up a new brewery using a 52 quart Coleman rectangular camping cooler with 1/2" pvc pipe false bottom plumbing. (I used to use a zapap system) I have brewed two beers with this new system using a three step infusion mash (protein rest, saccharification and mash out.) Both of of these beers have had terrible O.G.s. Using the Amazing Wheel of Beer I have calculated my efficiency at roughly 50%! :( I think I have a few problems to iron out. Following are what I think are the most serious problems. I would greatly appreciate any feedback on what needs fixin' and what doesn't matter. 1) I managed to use all pvc fittings to install a plastic spigot into the existing drain plug hole in the cooler. But, because the drain plug hole is drilled so high into the end of the cooler, the plumbing on the spigot end of the cooler is about 1" off the bottom of the cooler. The plumbing then slopes down and rests on the other end of the cooler. Am I losing a lot of fermentables in this space below the plumbing? Or is there any other reason why this may affect my efficiency? I hack sawed slots into the 1/2" pvc pipes every 1.5" and I have three pipes, each about 18" long. 2) Second, this cooler is larger than I really wanted but I couldn't resist the end-of-summer sale at Target and I bought it brand new for $13 (I live in Wyoming, where the demand for coolers meets that of sun tan lotion during our eight months of winter.) Anyway, twelve pounds of malt in this mash tun gives me a grain bed depth of about 5 to 6 inches after doughing-in. Is this depth too shallow? I know the 'experts' suggest a deeper bed, but is this depth adequate? 3) I sparge using my 6 gallon bottling bucket as a hot water tank. I built a sparge 'arm' out of two pvc pipes that span the length of the cooler. The two pipes have very tiny holes drilled in them and they seem to work perfect. But, in order for the sparge water to adequately spray out of the pipes and cover the whole grain bed I have to keep the spigot on the hot water tank about 3/4 open. This means I circulate 5 gallons of sparge water in about 10 minutes. I know that is too fast. Is this causing me to lose a lot of gravity? 4) Finally, I collect about 6 to 7 gallons of wort and boil down to 5 gallons over 60 to 90 minutes on the stove. I don't think putting any more water into my kettle is wise since it already takes well over 30 minutes to get my wort boiling after sparging. Should I be collecting more wort? Is the long lag time between sparging and boiling critical? And, finally finally, I have been exhausting my sparge water and then letting the mash tun completely drain into my kettle before commencing my boil. Is it ok to completely drain the mash tun like this? I have read and heard so many conflicting reports on this procedure that I am totally befuddled. Thanks a ton in advance for any help. Jeff mashing and cussing in WY *!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*! ! * * JJJJJJJJJJJ EEEEEEE FFFFFFF FFFFFFF ! ! J E F F * * J E F F ! ! J EEEE FFFF FFFF * * J J E F F ! ! J J E F F * * JJJJJ EEEEEEE F F Sturman ! ! * * brewshop at coffey.com ! ! * *!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 14:05:09 -0800 From: jlee at esd.ray.com (Jerry Lee) Subject: Ideal grain bed depth > From: "David N. Pflanzer" <pflanzer at gate.net> > Subject: Gott Mashing Questions >Terence asks about mashing in gott coolers... >>From: Terence McGravey {91942} <tpm at swl.msd.ray.com> >>2. If I go with the 10 gal cooler, will the grain bed be to shallow >> (because of the larger diameter of the cooler) to provide adequate >> filtration of a 5 gal batch ? >Ideal grain bed depth is around six inches. The 10 gal Gott is wider >than the 5 gal unit (13" compared to 11.5") so it will provide a >shallower grain depth with identical grain volumes. Are you trying to say that if I'm doing a bbl that I should get a pan to cover half my brewery to get six inch depth? I believe that I read in brewing techniques or that $130 set of books on the science of...that the "IDEAL" depth was actually a ratio. The depth should be equal to the diameter...hmmmm was that right? Sorry about so many responses in one day! Just one of those moods :-} >From: Mark Redman <brewman at vivid.net> >Subject: Two tips, two questions >First question: Am I the only person who heats the brewpot to go from >a protein rest to a saccharification rest? Works for me! RIMS then worked for me! I now hope steam will be just a little better. The advantages for the steam are also the downfalls... > From: "Gabrielle Palmer" <gabriellepalmer at e-mail.com> > Subject: my scotch ale >I just transfered my scottish export ale into the secondary last night >and took the gravity reading. It tasted a bit too bitter for a >scottish ale. Does anyone have any suggestions on how this ale could >be improved? Why bother to take a reading between primary and secondary anyway. The only reason for the transfer is to seperate the beer from the cold break, trub, and dead yeasties. A lot of people here will tell you even that is not necessary. But to go on...You can improve this beer considerably by waiting until the secondary is finished and giving it a little aging time. The proper amount of time is determined by your personal taste buds as it will continue to mellow with age. Hmmmm guess I'll look at the recipe now... Finally....some real controversy here, From: Kirk R Fleming <flemingk at usa.net> Subject: Stock Pot Secondary, Suds 4.0 >But...I *don't* find it intuitive that there would be any significant >connection between extraction efficiency and color. Dark grains, in >my experience, will contribute about the same color to the wort no >matter how they're treated. IOW, soaking them in warm water,mashing >them, boiling them, whatever...their color contribution is about the >same (undetectably influenced by the process). If you are improving the sugar extraction (better efficiency) by improving the hot water circulation and/or temperatures with... raking, RIMS, flow or whatever other process. It seems to me that you will also increase the coloring effect, however minor. There will "obviously?" be a greater difference when considering percentages of increase. Thus improving the extraction by three percent when considering the total grain percentage of dark versus light malts will necessitate a minor change. But if you increased first the percentage of dark malts, then a change in effiency would make a larger apparent change in color. Taking it to the extreme, if the extraction effiency had no effect, the coloring agents must not be dependant on the same changes as the sugar. Thus dipping the dark malt in cold water would result in the color release?!? Hmmmmm got to go try it. Personally, I think Tom Wenck has a firm grasp of intuitive. ===================================================== ~~~~~ / \ //\\\\\ / Jerry D. Lee, Jr. | SEPG Methods & Tools Chairman / {| ~ ~ |} / Raytheon ESD | E-Mail : jlee at eng.esd.ray.com \ | ^ | / 6380 Hollister Ave | Tel : 805-967-5511 ext2306 \ \ = / \ Goleta, CA 93117 | Fax : 805-964-9185 _/ - --/\-/\-- \ \ \/^\/ \+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=| Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 15:22:44 -0700 (MST) From: Hugh Graham <hugh at lamar.ColoState.EDU> Subject: Re: Cole Parmer/high temp hoses Henry Dondi told me: > I read your post in todays HBD (1960) and I've been looking for Cole > Parmer's phone number. I tried the one in your post, 1-800-323-4344, and > you get a business called the "Sweet Shop". They are not related to Cole > Parmer and they are not even an 800 number. Lord only knows how you > can dial an 800 number and not get it. Oops. Sorry. Thanks. Cole Parmer phone number correction The correct number is: 1-800 323 4340 (US Canada and US possessions) OR In 708 area code dial 647 7600 in 312 area code or international enquiries dial (708) 647 7600 FAX (708) 647 9660 TDD 800 833 7400 Address 7425 North Oak Park Avenue Niles, IL 60714 USA Still no connection etc. though I feel they owe me now. Hugh Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 15:03:38 -0800 (PST) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: Gott mashing The recent Gott mash-lauter tun thread prompts ... In HBD #1960 Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com> says, >there is a perforated pizza pan on the market (walmart, kmart, >etc) that fits perfectly in the gott. i simply drilled four holes >around the perimeter and used stainless steel carriage bolts for >legs to stand the pan just above the spigot. the drawback to >this design is that it leaves about 1 gal dead space below the >pan. > > <snip> > >i must admit that i still have a problem with low efficiency. >perhaps this design has something to do with it. i have gotten >about 25 pt-gal/lb, and understand that 30 would be more like it. I think that these two paragraphs are related. I would guess that the low efficiency is due to sparge water simply going around the perforated plate, between the plate and the wall of the cooler. My Gott modification solves this problem, has only about 1 quart of dead space and routinely gets over 30 pts/lb/gal, but it involves a bit more work. At a boating supply store I bought a 5/8" a brass bulkhead fitting. This fitting is threaded internally for 3/8". I also purchased a hose barb with 3/8" threads, and 2 flare elbows. I flared a short arc of copper tubing (6") and drilled a larger hole in the side of the pizza plate that an flare elbow threads into. The other elbow is on the inside side of the bulkhead fitting. The hose barb goes on the outside side of the bulkhead fitting. About 3.25 (cut to fit) feet of 1" thick-walled tubing (Tygon in my case) was slit lengthwise and fit all around the edge of the pizza pan. The bulkhead fitting with external hose barb and internal flare elbow fits into the spigot hole of the Gott. The perforated pizza pan with circumferential tubing seal and flare elbow lays upside down on the bottom of the cooler and the short arc of flared tubing connects the 2 flare elbows. Everything fits together finger tight. : : |<-- Inside wall of cooler | | _____________________________________________ | | / Perforated Pizza Pan \ | | ___/ \___ | |/ o/\ <-- 1" thich-walled tubing (slit) /\o \| |\___/ \___/| `------------ Bottom of cooler ---------------------------' Craig Agnor AGNORCB at miavx1.acs.muohio.edu says, >I would be interested to know what techniques/methods the "Gott >mashers" out there are using to do multi-step infusion mashing. How >is the mash "heated" between the steps? A few ways to do this. Start with a stiff mash of 1qt/lb then add boiling water at each step. Often you end with a thin mash. Do a decoction-like process. Simply remove portions of the mash, quickly bring them to a boil (no rests), and add them back. Highly diastatic malts work best for this. Watch the mash pH! Some combination of the above, i.e., first step with boiling water, next step with removal/boil. >If you are doing specific heat type calculations to determine the >amount of hot water needed to reach the different step temperatures, >how is the cooler itself included in these calculations? I am doing these calculations and I preheat the cooler with HOT tap water which gets it to about 130+F (I raised my water heater), then I ignore it. I prefer to err on the too cool side, because I can always pull a couple quarts, boil, then return to adjust upward quickly. Another trick is to preheat your grain in the oven to your first target temp, then just combine it with water at the same temp. Domenick Venezia Computer Resources ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 96 15:04:00 PST From: "Gregory, Guy J." <GGRE461 at eroerm1.ecy.wa.gov> Subject: Heat only mashing In HBD 1960 Mark Redman wrote that he mashed by raising temperature and stirring, rather than by adding measured amounts of boiling water to raise grain temperature. Well, Mark, I do the same thing, and I make great beer. My brew partner brews this way, and he makes even better beer. I, also, would like to read what the potential bad things could happen. It sure is an easy way to brew. Respond GuyG4 at aol.com if you wish. Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Feb 1996 17:50:26 U From: "Jim Youngmeyer" <youngmeyer at macmail.posc.org> Subject: Sub-Zero Customized Refrige Sub-Zero Customized Refrigeration? 5:31 PM 2/15/96 The recent "Man of the Year" issue of Time Magazine gave a company called Sub-Zero a Best Product of 1995 award for developing "technology that will allow kitchen mavens to refrigerate the most unlikely places: an overhead cabinet, a closet, a row of drawers." This would be of tremendous benefit to homebrewers for controlling fermentation temperatures and maintaining optimum beer storage temperatures. I haven't been able to find out anything more about this invention or about the Sub-Zero company by searching the Web. Does anyone have any knowledge of this? Does anyone know how to contact Sub-Zero for more information? I would be happy to post a summary of replies on the HBD. TIA, Jim Youngmeyer Houston, Texas youngmeyer at posc.org Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 21:21:43 -0500 (EST) From: Gregory Blaha <BLAHA_G at a1.mscf.upenn.edu> Subject: Cheaper alternative >Hello blokes and blokettes - in this neck of the world, everything >related to brewing paraphanelia seems to cost a lot more than the >States. I am looking to buy a 40 litre SS boiler, and have seen two >types. One is made of thin SS all round, and runs $160. The other has an >aluminium "sandwich" on the base, and costs $280 (!!!). So, in terms of >heat transfer etc, is it worth the expense to get the better quality >boiler? Thanks >Regan in Sydney My 2 cents: Cooking catalogues sell heat diffusers made out of anodized aluminum that will prevent your wort from burning. An 11" one goes for about $30 ("Chef's catalogue"), which is a lot cheaper than the $120 difference between your two pots, and you can use it with different pots. Happy brewing --- Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 21:30:58 +0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: (Fwd) Sam Adams, etc. Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Hmmm. Seems I'm an HBD relay now ;-) This popped up in my mailbox today, and, being but a servant to things beery, I felt compelled to comply with Bob's request... - ------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- Date: Thu, 15 Feb 96 10:06 EST To: pbabcock at oeonline.com From: "Bob Z." <nm_lcs at technet.nm.org> Subject: Sam Adams, etc. Pat: I have read HBD via hard copies from a friend :-), and since I have no computer, I'm borrowing one to tell you about my experience with the BBC's World Homebrew Competition. I was one of the nine finalists, and had a bitchin' time in Boston. Even tho' lots of folks don't like Jim Koch's business practices, I can attest to the fact that there are real brewers at the BBC facility, and they are great guys! Thanks to you, Russell, A.J., Kirk, Dion, Jack, Dominick and anyone else I forgot for all the help - I'm getting ready to set up my 3-kettle brewing system, and will at some point implement a RIMS set-up. Since I have no e-mail, could you pass along my comments about the BBC to the HBD? I'd appreciate it, and comments can be directed to me at: Bob R. Zamites (First Fire Brewing) 1704-B Llano, # 151 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505)474 -0904 TIA. Bob Z. - ------- End Forwarded Message ------- See ya! Pat Babcock in Canton, Michigan (Western Suburb of Detroit) pbabcock at oeonline.com URL: http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/ Take advantage of the Drinkur Purdee document echo! Send a note to pbabcock at oeonline.com with the word help on the subject line to see what's on tap! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 21:49:46 -0500 From: Douglas Kerfoot <dkerfoot at macatawa.org> Subject: Temp Controller HTML For those of you who expressed an interest in HTML versions of my temperature controller plans, the are now available at HTTP://www.macatawa.org/~dkerfoot/ Thanks to Pat Babcock! Doug Kerfoot (I like beer) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 19:48:38 -0600 From: guyruth at abq-ros.com Subject: Dukes of Ale's Spring Thing This is to announce the 6th Annual Dukes of Ale's Spring Thing Beer Competition which takes place April 19-21. Deadline for entries is April 13. You only need to send 2 bottles and $3 per entry. For a complete list of categories, style descriptions and entry forms you may either ftp them from ftp://www.aptec.com/aaron or access them through the web at http://www.aptec.com/~birenboi/beer/spring_thing.html For more information contact Guy Ruth at guyruth at abq-ros.com. Judges may contact Jeff Graves at (505) 884-4335. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 21:44:04 -0700 From: "Norman C. Pyle" <hophead at ares.csd.net> Subject: Re: Mold on Porter? Paul wrote: > I've had a superb porter sitting in my secondary (glass carboy) for about > 2 1/2 weeks. About a week a go, I noticed some small white things > clinging to the glass at just above the beer level. I couldn't decide if Are you *really sure* these aren't just clusters of bubbles? > they were mold or liquified yeast particles, so I did nothing and waited. > Now I have white clusters of bubbles floating on the top of the beer. > They other day I also saw some bubbles in a definitive line. I may be misunderstanding, but this doesn't sound very ominous to me. > Is this mold? If not, is it some other kind of infection? I was thinking > about tossing it, but haven't been able to bring myself to do it. Could > it be drinkable. If it is mold, will it provide full gastric distress? As I said in my "Is My Beer Ruined" FAQ, which was posted some months ago in jest, you should send it to me for evaluation. I'll let you know if it is OK. Honest. OK, OK, you're all tired of my bad jokes. I suggest a simple taste test. I'm not really sure if there is something there or if it just fooling you. I've been in the same boat before. Taste is key. There's very little chance of gastric distress if the flavor isn't horrible as well. Take a sip, then a chug, and then a glass-ful. If you live to tell about it, then bottle it! Really, it is fine to let the taste-buds be your judge. Cheers, Norm ******* Check out my web page: http://www.csd.net/~hophead ******* Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 23:16:16 -0600 From: Gary Bud Melton <gary at ess-mailhost.lfwc.lockheed.com> Subject: soldering, weighing, recipes Can anyone give some hints to a soldering newbie? I would like to make a racking cane out of copper tubing with a copper cap soldered onto the end, but I can't seem to get the hang of soldering. The solder just rolls off. I would like for the tubing to rest up against one side of the cap. So far I've just gotten big globs of solder or had the solder completely roll off. Should I use more flux? What exactly constitutes a "thin coat"? And exactly where should I be trying to place the solder -- should it go inside the cap, so the cane rests in a pool of solder on the inner wall of the cap; or should I just put a bead on the outside, where the cane and the cap meet? Any help would be appreciated. ______ I've been looking at kitchen scales for weighing hops so I can have more repeatable results. Does anyone have a recommendation for an accurate but not-too-expensive scale? Most of the ones I've looked at go to 1/4 oz. or 5 grams, but none of them look like precision instruments. Any suggestions on testing scales? One thought I had for a fairly easy and repeatable test was weighing coins. Does anyone know how much any of standard U.S. coins weigh? Is this overkill? ______ I've been moving up the homebrewing chain mainly by following the techniques in Dave Miller's "Brewing the World's Great Beers" (and of course, HBD). I would still recommend the book to any beginner. I like the way he takes you through the process in steps -- extract, extract with specialty grains/liquid yeast/wort chillers/etc., partial mash, and all grain. But when I moved up to all grain, finally, I realized that he was saying that he got more than 35 pts/lb/gal. Does anyone really approach these figures? Basically his all-grain recipes have been useless to me. When modifying a recipe for your own brewery, when your yield does not match the one of the recipe's formulator, is it better to adjust the amount of base grain to match the recipe's gravity, or should I try to keep the ratio of base/specialty grains the same as was in the original recipe? Bud Melton Rampdown Brewing Company Ft. Worth, Texas "Every day is a Rampdown day" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 03:18:53 -0500 From: bob at carol.net (Robert Rogers) Subject: RE: Beer Bottle Labels lynn asks: [lots deleted] >Is there a better way? If possible, I would like to continue using my color >ink jet printer. At reasonable prices, are there better and easier-to-use >adhesive methods, papers and coatings (maybe glossy) available? sometimes i use polyurethane spray on inkjet output. spray both sides of the paper to saturation several times. if it still smears, apply more coats the next time. i have been thinking of making some generic labels and afixing them to the bottles with polyurethane, and then filling in the blanks with a grease pencil. for temporary sticking, i plan on trying rubber cement, which is waterproof (so if the bottles sweat the lables stay on) but it will rub off easy. you might also try using a better grade of paper. a paper with a clay finish will allow you to "trap" the ink between the finish and the plastic spray. i think the darkening you see is the plastic being absorbed by the paper. at work we use an inkjet paper and the same brand of spray does not effect color/density/contrast/etc. oh, also about bubbles in the paper: try putting one of the lables printed side down on a sheet of plate glass and tap the glue side with a very sharp needle all over. the "microperf" might allow the air to escape. if you're careful it might not be visible from the front. sorry if i ramble today, i've been at work too long and i'm out of homebrew:( bob rogers bob at carol.net "Why, Fritz, alcohol is a gift from God..." --young Fritz Maytag's Mom Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 06:19:41 EST From: "DAVID T. PETERS" <d_peters at e-mail.com> Subject: NO SUBJECT I have been using the 5 liter kegs for a couple of years. They have worked pretty well for me. But, I do have one difficulty with them. That is putting the bungs in and taking them out. Does the collective have any suggestions for making this easier? I have been using a knife to pry them on and off. This was the only way I could see to make sure they are properly seated. On one of my cans I have seen a rust spot in this area where I have taken the coating off. How can I avoid this on my other cans and still keep form having the potential Old Faithful? REGARDS, DAVID T. PETERS E-MAIL: D_PETERS at E-MAIL.COM CW170 NA BODY CONSTRUCTION LEADER, VEHICLE OPERATIONS FORD OF GERMANY, MERKENICH MAIL LOCATION: D-ME/MF-21 PHONE: 9 1 70-37791 FAX: 9 1 70-31635 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 05:35:28 -0600 From: Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com> Subject: stupid-dog stout thought i'd relate my weekend brewing experience. i was preparing an partial-mash extract stout. my wife bought me a propane cooker for christmas :=) undoubtedly to get out of the kitchen. so i had the batch well into the boil and decided to do some work on the computer inside. when i went back at the end of the boil i found about a half gallon of the wort on the concrete. i at first imagined that the wort had somehow had a second hot break. but then i saw the singed hindquarters of our trusty golden retriever, and decided to name the batch after her - stupid-dog stout. (she's ok, and i hope the stout is too.) wade wallinger brewing contraband on the mississippi gulf coast Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 08:57:50 +0000 From: "Rick Gontarek, Ph.D." <gontarek at fcrfv1.ncifcrf.gov> Subject: History of Brewing in America Hello all, I am in need of a favor. A good friend of mine is involved with an historical preservation group in Hoboken, NJ. Apparently, Hoboken has a rich brewing heritage, and the locals would like to hire a speaker to give a talk on the history of brewing in America. Michael Jackson was actually in Hoboken a few months back, so they are sort of looking for someone different to speak not about the beers, but of the history and the culture of the American brewing tradition. If anyone out there can give me a name of someone who would fit this bill, please send email to me and I will pass the information along. The person could be famous or not so famous, but a requirement is that they would know what they are taling about. Thanks a million, and now back to your regularly scheduled homebrew digest... Rick Gontarek Owner/Brewmaster of the Major Groove Picobrewery Frederick, MD gontarek at fcrfv1.ncifcrf.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 09:03:15 -0400 From: robinson at dilbert.fc.hp.com (John Robinson) Subject: Ice to cool wort In HOMEBREW Digest #1961 Fri 16 February 1996 Paul Fisher: fisher at ltpmail.gsfc.nasa.gov wrote: > Subject: Re: Ice to cool wort > > > I've used pre-boiled ice to cool the wort. It works pretty well, but > there are a few things to keep in mind. Rather than pre-boil water, I have purchased 4L jugs at the grocery store and frozen them no problem. > > 1) If you add ice to the wort (if it doesn't cool down enough after > pouring the wort over the ice) you will develop a density and > temperature gradient -- cold thin wort on top, thick warm wort on > bottom. So you have to make sure the wort is mixed well prior to > pitching. It all depends on how much ice you use. Using 12L of ice to cool 8L of wort is way too much. :) I would recomend using 4L of ice to cool 8L of wort and then making up the remaining volume with cold water. This works best for all extract batches. For all grain, one often must chill 5 gallons of boiling wort to pitching temps. My interest in this subject comes from looking for ways to increase production. Thus, if I boil a 1.090 wort to 5 gallons, and then split it into two 5 gallon batches, I only have 2.5 gallons / batch to cool, which could easily be done with two 4L ice cubes. > > 2) In order to end up with a final gravity close to your intentions, > you have to have pretty reliable measures of the exact volumes > involved. Estimating evaporation during boiling is the most difficult > part. You need a good idea, but my technique is usually to under estimate, and then top up in a 5 gallon US carboy. > > 3) In a standard run-of-the-mill refrigerator, it takes a while to > freeze warm water. I busted mine by trying to freeze up 4 2-liter > bottles at once. The water started at about 100 degrees when I put it > in. The compressor ran constantly for 18 hours untill it froze the > internal workings-- and my sterile water still wasn't totally frozen > yet. (good think I only rent) I would never try to freeze hot water like that. If you buy the water jugs from the store and then use a clean serated knife to cut the jugs off the ice blocks, you'll get lots of reasonably sanitized ice. > > Spend the 20 bucks and build a simple imersion chiller, its much > easier to deal with. It also takes a lot longer. Mine works reasonably well, but if I do keep using a chiller I'll probably design and build a counterflow chiller soon. Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Feb 96 08:21:31 EST From: Louis Gordon <103232.1227 at compuserve.com> Subject: Time to chill wort in summer Several people have written saying that it takes a much longer time to chill their wort in the summer with immersion chillers because the tap water is too warm. This problem can be solved by making a short initial chiller that is put in an ice water bath and then lead to the main chiller in the wort. This way you will always have water that is cold summer and winter. Louis Gordon Minneapolis Return to table of contents