HOMEBREW Digest #1963 Mon 19 February 1996
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Questions about lagers (Rich Bemindt)
MAC Software (Mark & Vonnie Mrozinski)
Celis distribution ("Tracy Aquilla")
Big Rock Pale Ale (Doug Konrad [4191])
Re: wooden paddle source? (Jeff Renner)
Recall on galvanized pipe opinion / RIMS question ("Keith Royster")
extraction efficency (Michael McGuire)
Force carbonate with N2/CO2 mix? (Mark Berman)
Re: wooden paddle source? (John S. Burger)
Pin Lock Keg Tool (Rosenzweig,Steve)
8 Gal SS Pot - Reply summary (Brad Anesi)
Heartless Heartland Brewing (Brad Anesi)
Re: cheap SS pipe for RIMS (hollen)
Corn Sugar Starter (James M. Harper)
Alternate to Labeling Bottles (MpcUSA)
Water Info Attribution ("Dave Draper")
Pico Paddles (Dan McConnell)
tannins in hop tea? ("Robert Waddell")
Re:Sam Adams Contest/Gott Spigot Replacement ("Patrick E. Humphrey 708-937-3295")
Airlock Wierdness ("Richard Scotty")
Suds SG Calculations (Kirk R Fleming)
Is it legal? (Randy Lewis)
Re: boilers and heat conduction (Captain)
: Corn Sugar Starter? (Captain)
Avoirdupois to gram conversion (Rolland Everitt)
Oops (KennyEddy)
suscribe (Michael Orlyk)
Re: Mike's List of homebrew suppliers (John S. Burger)
spent grains (Hettsmac)
Question on bottle washing (Woody Weaver)
More Food-Grade Silicone (KennyEddy)
Mash Kettle/Chorine Sanitizer Questions (Mitch Hogg)
I want to be on your mailing list (Eric Farry)
Calcium chloride (Wolfgang L. Wedel)
Lowering mash pH; how? ("James Hojel")
re: cooling hot wort (Robert Rogers)
Them Crazy Germans (Mitch Hogg)
Experiments and water (KennyEddy)
Re: Soldering/Hop scales (cheap) (00bkpickeril)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 08:56:08 -0500
From: Rich Bemindt <richb at cai.com>
Subject: Questions about lagers
Hi all,
I am a newbie and until recently only brewed ales with good success. About
a month or so ago, I decided to brew the rocky raccoon honey lager in
TNCJOHB. Inplace of the specified yeast, I used Wyeast #2112. The
fermentation took a total of 3 weeks to complete (It did 10 days in the
primary and 11 in the secondary). The resulting beer is very clear.
However, I may have rushed things a bit (probably due to my inexperience
with lagers) and bottled it shortly after fermentation stopped. Now for my
problem. The beer has been aging in the bottles for 2 weeks. Well last
night I thought I would try it to see how it is going. First thing I
noticed is that the sediment on the bottom of the bottle is a dark color.
Second problem is that the beer was flat. Third problem is that it had a
harsh taste to it. Sort of reminded me of grain alcohol. While I don't
think that this beer will be salvagable, I was wondering if anyone has any
idea of what I could have done wrong.
TIA
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 09:11:28 -0500
From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com>
Subject: RE: rehydration of Irish moss
Hi all, Greg King asks:
>Should Irish moss should be rehydrated prior to being added to boiling wort?
>If the answer is yes, then what is the proper rehydration procedure?
This topic was covered extensively on the digest sometime early this year
but the general concensus seemmed to be that rehydration was a good idea.
I usually put a spoon full of Irish moss in a half cup of warm tap water
at the beginning of my brew session (or as soon as I remember !) give it a
quick stir and set it aside until the last few minutes of the boil.
This seems to work great.
Chris Cooper , Commerce Michigan --> Pine Haven Brewery <--
ccooper at a2607.cc.msr.hp.com --> aka. Deb's Kitchen <--
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 08:30:57 -0600
From: mdmroz at mail.ip.portal.com (Mark & Vonnie Mrozinski)
Subject: MAC Software
Is anyone aware of any GOOD brewing software for the Macintosh? I have
seen some good stuff for Windows but what I have come across on the Mac
side seems to be lacking. Human brewer experience has oodles over the
print and cyber ads. Thanks for your help!
Mark Mrozinski, Schaumburg, IL
mdmroz at mail.ip.protal.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 09:27:06 CST
From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu>
Subject: Celis distribution
In Digest #1961:
Bart Thielges <bart.thielges at Xilinx.COM>:
>
>As many fans of Celis Grand Cru know, its distribution has been greatly
>curtailed and is only available in a few states now. Pity the fans who
>became hooked, only to have their favorite product pulled from the shelves.
What's the deal with this anyway? I thought the reason for Celis selling out
to Miller was to INCREASE distribution, not "curtail" it. Did the plan
back-fire?
Tracy
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 07:12:20 -0800
From: dkonrad at glenayre.com (Doug Konrad [4191])
Subject: Big Rock Pale Ale
I've just started brewing, and I would like to make a pale ale
similar to something I'm familiar with, and fond of. One of my
favourite commercial beers is Big Rock Pale Ale. I was wondering
if there are any Western Canadians who could suggest an extract
recipe that is close to this? If not, could you educate me about
what type of beer this is? (British or American pale ale,
IBUs, etc.)
Thanks
Doug Konrad
dkonrad at glenayre.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 10:16:12 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
Subject: Re: wooden paddle source?
In HBD 1961, "mike spinelli" <paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil> asked
>Does anybody know where I can get one of those large wooden paddles as
>seen in the Pico Brewing Systems ads? I've called and faxed them and
>have gotten nowhere. Just an answering machine.
Mike O'Brien (obrien at cyberspace.org), who handles the day to day
operations of Pico, is in CHINA demonstrating the Pico system! A
Chinese national who lives in Atlanta bought three complete systems and
is paying Mike's way to go help them set up. I don't know if this
Chinese is planning to market them there or what. Mike left early this
week, taking with him enough ingredients to brew a batch or two. He
didn't know what to expect when he got there as far as ingredients,
electricity, propane, propane fittings, etc, but the guy told him he'd
meet him there and take care of it. Mike may be back by now as he said
he would be spending more time in the air than on the ground in China.
I'm looking forward to hearing from Mike about his trip.
I'm sure Mike will get back to you about the paddles. BTW, he has them
made up for him from white oak by Jim Johnston, another member of the
Ann Arbor Brewers' Guild. Jim made me a short one for my 10 gallon
imitation Pico.
Standard disclaimer.
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 10:27:45 -0500
From: "Keith Royster" <keith.royster at ponyexpress.com>
Subject: Recall on galvanized pipe opinion / RIMS question
As some of you may remember I recently posted my rather unpopular
opinion that galvanized piping was probably safe to use in a brewing
system (RIMS, in my case) and that the worst that *might* happen is
a metallic taste to my beer. Someone responded in private that it
seemed that my conclusion was pre-determined, that I knew what I
wanted to concluded before I did my research. Well, this may very
well be the case, as I had already built my system out of galvanized
pipes and I didn't want to rebuild it. So I rethought my conclusion
and looked for the weak spots in my thinking.
My conclusion was based on both facts and some assumptions. I knew
that copper is MUCH more toxic than zinc in equal concentrations yet
we brew in copper all of the time. So I assumed that, while zinc is
probably more soluable than copper, it was probably at least similar
in its soluability so as not to become a problem. I pulled out my
old water chemistry book to check this assumption and boy was I
wrong!!! Even considering the high probability that I made some
errors on my calculations, zinc appears to be many, many, MANY orders
of magnitude more soluable than copper. I don't know the exact
concentraction of Zn++ that would occur, only it's approximate ratio
to Cu++ if copper pipes were used, all other things being equal, so
I still can't say if the levels would be toxic or not. But the
chances of it being toxic, or even ruining the taste of my beer, are
no longer within my levels of tolerance, so I have rebuilt my RIMS
heating chamber. Now you can all sleep better not having to worry
that one of my tainted beers will show up at your club's contest =)
Now I have some RIMS questions. How do those of you with RIMS
deliver the wort to the top of the grain bed gently and evenly? And
do you think occasional stirring of the grain bed is necessary (maybe
between temp steps) to eliminate temperature pockets, or should the
grain be be shallow enough (even with a 10 gallon batch in a modified
sankey keg) so as not to have these temperature pockets? TIA for all
advice!
Keith Royster - Keith.Royster at ponyexpress.com
at your.service - The Affordable Web Page Provider
Mooresville, NC - Specializing in small and medium sized businesses.
Check us out at - http://www.wp.com/ at your.service/
Voice & Fax - (704) 663-1098
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 09:19:23 -0600
From: mcguire at hvsun40.mdc.com (Michael McGuire)
Subject: extraction efficency
Hi HBD,
I was wondering why the extraction efficency is generally lower with smaller
batches?? I use a colman 48 Q coller and have a effiecncy around 27to 28.
I read that somewhere around 30 is good for a homebrew. Most micros?? seem
to get closer to 35 pt/lb. Is this have to do with the surface area to
volume?? I'd really like to get an effiency that is higher. I've made
batches with decoction, 1 , 2 and 3 step infusion mashes and they all
seem to yield about the same extraction. A friend suggested to stop about
halve way thru the sparge and stir up the grain bed and recirulate before
resuming sparging. I've also heard many people say it seemed completely
dependant on false bottom.
Is there any consensus??
Michael
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 11:12:52 -0500
From: mberman at bbn.com (Mark Berman)
Subject: Force carbonate with N2/CO2 mix?
Hi --
I've seen some traffic here about the advantages of using a
nitrogen and carbon dioxide mix for dispensing from a corny keg setup, and
I'm tempted to try it out. However, I have only one gas tank and don't
want to invest in another to try this experiment. So, if I fill my one
tank with a N2/CO2 mix, is force carbonating (actually, "effervescing" is
probably the right word here) with the mix OK? Or is that the whole idea
and I just didn't get it?
Thanks for any advice.
-- Mark
Mark Berman
mberman at bbn.com
Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Feb 96 10:18:08 +0500
From: jsburger at xmission.com (John S. Burger)
Subject: Re: wooden paddle source?
On or about Thu, 15 Feb 1996 07:56:28 -0400 (EDT) mike spinelli typed the
following words about "wooden paddle source?". My reply is thus...
ms> Does anybody know where I can get one of those large wooden paddles as
ms> seen in the Pico Brewing Systems ads? I've called and faxed them and hav
ms> gotten nowhere. Just an answering machine.
ms> Thanks
ms> Mike in Cherry Hill NJ
Have you tried a restaurant supply store. Wooden paddles are used in the large
steam kettles used in commercial kitchens.
- --
// -= John =- jsburger at xmission.com BIX: jburger
\X/ Via
Amateur Radio KB0ES T
Amiga 2000 H
A2630 A2632 John S. Burger Hooper, UT O
2+14megs RAM R
850meg HD This message was composed on... 2.22
Iomega ZIP 16-Feb-96 10:14:39 MST
- --
Failsafe pickup: Bond. James Bond.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 11:09:34 PST
From: Steve_Rosenzweig at wb.xerox.com (Rosenzweig,Steve)
Subject: Pin Lock Keg Tool
This may not be a revelation for anyone, but I was quite pleased with myself
for adding to my gadgetry . . .
I use the pin lock style soda kegs for my brews, and have always had trouble
getting the darn pin lock fixtures off so that I could clean. My trusty
crescent wrench would work, but only after much effort and possible damage to
the fixture (such as popping one of the dang metal nips off - which I did!).
My grandfather's voice kept ringing through my head "the right tool for the
job" or some such nonsense . . . But then I saw in a recent issue of Zymurgy
that someone was selling a socket for removing the pin lock fixtures for
about $15. Now, I'm way too cheap for that, and upon further review of the
picture in the write-up, I saw that it was just a 13/16" deep well socket
that had notches in the end to allow the metal nips to fit through.
Since I didn't already have that particular type of socket . . . off to the
hardware store I went. A 13/16" deep well socket (spark plug style) was
about $2.50. I took it home and used a 4" hand held grinder to cut some
notches in the correct pattern (four notches in the corners of the hex
pattern - two across from each other, and two next to either one of those)-
and viola! a new gadget for the brew box!
Nothing against those folks selling the tool for $15, I'm sure lots of people
may not have the time, tools, or inclination to make their own gadget, and
would gladly pay for the completed part. Not I.
Not an earth shattering revelation, but if it saves a few kegs and or scraped
knuckles, I've done my good deed for the day.
Steve
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 11:37:48 -0800
From: BANESI at novell.com (Brad Anesi)
Subject: 8 Gal SS Pot - Reply summary
Thanks for the replies - here's a summary...
1) The most common recommendation was to cut up a keg (1/2 or 1/4),
and use that as a brewing vessel. While this is a future possibility, I'm
still doing stove-top brewing, which makes this a difficult approach due
to space limitations.
2) Apparently a $70 8 gal SS pot with top was located in southern
California at an Oriental grocery store. So, my next trip into New York
will include a visit into Chinatown to see what I can find.
3) The other recommendations included checking with a restaurant
supply house who might also carry used pots.
Thanks for all the responses - if I ever do locate one in the New York
metro area, I'll let everyone know.
Brad
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 11:50:24 -0800
From: BANESI at novell.com (Brad Anesi)
Subject: Heartless Heartland Brewing
Has anyone else seen the recent ad in the Ale Street News...
Zip City Didn't
Westside Brewing Company Didn't
We Did
...win a medal a the '95 GABF
This ad certainly implies that Zip City was at the GABF (they were not)
and it makes no mention of the fact that it was a bronze medal that *1* of
their beers won (of the many they entered).
I've also recently learned that the day before Christmas, Zip City was
closed and Heartland was open (within walking distance). *Somebody*
plastered signs at the entrance to Zip City letting everyone know that
Heartland was open for business. Gee, how thoughtful.
It's getting ugly out there.
Brad
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 11:58:55 PST
From: hollen at vigra.com
Subject: Re: cheap SS pipe for RIMS
>>>>> "Andrew" == Andrew J Donohue <andy2 at hogpa.ho.att.com> writes:
Andrew> While repairing the exhaust on my car I had a brainstorm
Andrew> (brainfart?). Many late model cars have SS exhausts. Would
Andrew> this SS be suitable for the heat chamber on a RIMS? It should
Andrew> be relatively inexpensive and readily available. I know there
Andrew> are different grades of SS, are any of them NOT suitable for
Andrew> contact with food?
While the food grade contact is better answered by John Palmer, I
*can* tell you that 304 or 316 will be fine. In fact, I am pretty
sure any SS will.
However, here is the cold water to splash on your face. While the
pipe will be fine, you eventually have to connect it up to 1) 1"
female tapered pipe threads to accept the heater (yes, I know the
heater threads are MSPT, not MNPT, but they fit together) and 2) to
inlets and outlets of approximately 1/2" or so. This means that you
will have to have fittings other than just the straight length of pipe
and the pipe will have to be welded or silver soldered to those
fittings. Those fittings will be quite expensive. Silver soldering
SS is not something you want to try, it is quite difficult to do
correctly and water tight. TIG welding is your best bet, but getting
that done, IMHO, will end up costing you what you saved over getting
threaded pipe.
Parts for a complete heater chamber, ready to accept a 22" heater
element with T's and compression fittings on the input output side for
temperature probes will only cost about $130. There is no welding, so
assembly should only cost the cost of a roll of teflon tape.
dion
- --
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x119 Email: hollen at vigra.com
Senior Software Engineer Vigra, Inc. San Diego, California
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 14:01:17 -0800
From: harperj at olympus.net (James M. Harper)
Subject: Corn Sugar Starter
Regarding Tracy Aquilla's thesis on using only maltose as a yeast starter,
wouldn't any fermentable polysacharide be equally as effective? It sure is
easier to boil up some sucrose. ?????
Jim Harper
Sequim, WA
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 17:07:34 -0500
From: MpcUSA at aol.com
Subject: Alternate to Labeling Bottles
Greetings from Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Anyone reading Jan/Feb Issue of New Brewer Magazine may have seen the
article on an alternative to labeling bottles - direct screen printing.
I am David Mueller from Miller Process Coating Company, the manufacturer of
the machine mentioned in the article. If anyone has any questions, would
like to become more familiar with the process, or investigate the feasability
of printing bottles instead of paper labeling please e-mail me directly at
mpcusa at aol.com.
Happy to answer your questions. Thanks!
David Mueller
Miller Process Coating Company
East Pittsburgh, PA, 15112
USA
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 09:07:46 +10
From: "Dave Draper" <david.draper at mq.edu.au>
Subject: Water Info Attribution
Dear Friends, Ken Schwartz wrote:
"BTW this brings me to a question about "building" brewing water. I have read
much of the general literature available about water treatment (Miller,
Pappazian, Draper, etc), and while I follow the general discussion, I just
plain get lost in the details of the chemistry. Draper's papers (I'm a poet
and don't know it) seem to be very thorough but again I'm just a bit
dizzy..."
Much as I am delighted and flattered to see my name in the same
breath as those other guys *grin* I must point out that it is AJ
deLange who wrote the great series of articles about water chemistry
last year, not me. I could no more have come up with that
outstanding treatment of the subject than I could pilot a hot-air
balloon across Antarctica. All I did was compile some numbers,
which served as a partial basis for AJ's stuff--and the bulk of
those numbers were supplied to my by Fredrik Stahl. So I am simply
a go-between on this one. But thanks for thinking I actually know
something!!!
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
"Cross your fingers and wait it out." ---A. J. deLange
- ---
***************************************************************************
David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia
Email: david.draper at mq.edu.au WWW: http://audio.apana.org.au/ddraper/home.html
...I'm not from here, I just live here...
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 17:13:56 -0500
From: danmcc at umich.edu (Dan McConnell)
Subject: Pico Paddles
From: "mike spinelli" <paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil>
>Does anybody know where I can get one of those large wooden paddles as
>seen in the Pico Brewing Systems ads? I've called and faxed them and have
>gotten nowhere. Just an answering machine.
Mike OBrien is currently in China demonstrating the Pico systems. Try
sending him email at <obrien at cyberspace.org>.
DanMcC
Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Feb 96 15:41:00 MST
From: "Robert Waddell" <V024971 at Tape.StorTek.Com>
Subject: tannins in hop tea?
Greetings Brewers and Brewsters,
A quick question:
Some time back, someone (Algis, A. J.,?) said that if you boil hops to make
a hop tea instead of dry hopping that it would extract tannins that would be
added to your final product. I also seem to remember someone saying that
the reason that the tannins are not extracted in a wort boil is because the
pH is so low. So the question is: if you drop the pH in the tea with a
little lactic acid would the tannin extraction be nullified?
I've been dry hopping for quite some time now and even with a nylon bag
tied over the bottom of my racking cane it is a royal pain in the patootie
(PITP...) to move my beers to the keg or the bottling bucket.
Thanks for the BW and any replies.
Bob
V024971 at tape.StorTek.com
Head Brewer, The Barchenspieder Brew-Haus
"I just love my new "Pico-System", except for the "Bonging" noise that
it makes when my wife throws it off of the bed every night"
--Author Unknown
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 16:07:00 -0600 (CST)
From: "Patrick E. Humphrey 708-937-3295" <HUMPHREY.PATRICK at igate.pprd.abbott.com>
Subject: Re:Sam Adams Contest/Gott Spigot Replacement
In HBD #1961 Steve wrote...
>FWIW, we were told that Boston Beer Co. plans to repeat their World
>Homebrew Contest again this year.
I thought I might relate to you a story I heard the other day at my local
homebrew shop. I will try to be as accurate as possible but I can't
guarantee it...
It seems that one of the employee's (or customer, not sure which) had
entered the BBC's homebrew contest last fall and ended up winning one of
the categories. I guess he didn't make it to the final round because they
never called him to fly to Boston. Anyway, do you think he would have
received some kind of award for winning the category? He received the same
shirt and hops that all the other entrants received. You would think that
they would have at least sent him a certificate or ribbon of some kind.
The BBC at work again.
Also in #1961, Dave Houseman wrote about a replacement for Gott spigot...
> Actually a cheaper and easier Gott spigot is to go to your HB store and
>buy ($3.50 or so) a bottling bucket spigot. With a little effort it fits
>into the Gott hole and you can use the same rubber grommet or an O ring to
>seal.
Rag mode on...
Am I the only one that finds the spigots used in bottling buckets to be a
pain in the butt? The type I use is a plastic spigot that has a thin
plastic disk through which the spigot attaches. Whenever I try to attach
tubing or turn the spigot open, the spigot spins toward the ceiling and I
end up touching the end of the spigot with my hands to try to hold it in
place. Not very sanitary.
And Heaven forbid if you put the bucket on a counter top and don't hang the
spigot off the edge. The spigot bends and pulls the disk away from where
it is seated and ends up leaking, forever! AAHHHH!!
The next thing is that there are two holes in the spigot, one where the
wort passes and a little hole on the opposite side. Why that little hole
is there I don't know, perhaps just to aggravate me. Tell me if you have
ever had this happen to you. Occasionally, I have to move the filled
bottles out of the way so I need to stop the flow of wort. I turn the flow
off and the little hole is now pointing towards me and the whatever else it
may be aimed at. I lift the racking cane a little bit and the wort comes
shooting out all over the place!! AAAHHH, AGAIN!
Why don't they seal the disk onto the housing so that the thing doesn't
spin or leak? I usually end up with about a bottle of sugary, stickey,
homebrew dripping on the dishwasher door, me, the floor... What a waste.
Needless to say, I don't enjoy bottling at the moment and unfortunately I
don't have room for kegging equipment. Perhaps a Party Pig.
Sorry, I just had to get that off my chest.
Rag mode off...
Pat in Illinois
patrick.e.humphrey at abbott.com
Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Feb 1996 20:27:53 -0700
From: "Richard Scotty" <richard_scotty at msmgate.mrg.uswest.com>
Subject: Airlock Wierdness
Ok - now I'm stumped. In preparation for brewing this weekend, I took out
two containers of yeast (salvaged through yeast washing) and fed them some
sterile 1.030 wort. All appeared normal last night, but when I got home
tonight I noticed that one of the airlocks is actually running in reverse.
That's right, it's sucking air *into* the erlimyer flask. I've been brewing
for some years now and I've never witnessed this before. The flasks have
been side by side during propagation and there were no deviations from my
normal procedures. The second flask exhibits normal activity. I use
Iodophor as a sanitizer and am reasonably sure that sanitization isn't a
problem. Even if it were, I'd still expect positive pressure in the airlock.
The appearance of the starter is normal otherwise.
So my question to the collective is: Can anyone explain this? IMYP (Is My
Yeast Posessed?). Needless to say, I won't be pitching this into my wort.
I'll split the other starter between the carboys and make do.
Rich Scotty
Chief Bronkbuster at the Yeast Ranch - The Crapshoot Brewery
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 20:24:57 +0000
From: Kirk R Fleming <flemingkr at market1.com>
Subject: Suds SG Calculations
In #1961 Erik Larson (erik.larson at treas.sprint.com) said:
> Most individuals pointed to a problem with Suds incorporating
> specialty grains as part of the regular grain bill, which in my
> case often consists primarily of liquid and dry extracts, as well
> as cane sugar. In fact, because specialty grains contribute
> little in the way of fermentables to the wort, they ought not to
> be included on an equal footing with the regular grain bill
> components when computing total points to gravity.
The result of Erik's setting the specialty grains' sg contributions
to 0 may be better sg estimates, but I disagree completely with the
reasoning. First, specialty grains may not contribute much in the
way of fermentables, percentage-wise, that's true. This has nothing
to do with whether they contribute to the gravity of the wort.
Black patent contributes about 29 ppg, period. Twenty-nine is the
number of the points, the number of points being 29. It's not 25, nor
is it 30, but 29. The fact that you only use 1 pound in a 20 pound
grain bill is how its contribution is accounted for.
KRF Colorado Springs
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Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 23:10:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Randy Lewis <brew at albany.net>
Subject: Is it legal?
Hi fellow brewers,
I have a new supply store in upstate ny,and have a
serious question.I have asked 5 police officers and
have contacted the dept. of alcohol(can't tell me untill
Tues.)and no one can tell me if it's legal to sell
supplies to minors(under21 in NY)I know you can't give or
sell the finished product to minors, of course.I don't
know if the raw product falls under the law.I know you have to be
21 to make it.Need to know so I am not breaking the law.Should
I be carding all the local students?Please e-mail me or respond
with a follow up.
Much Appreciated
Randy Lewis
Visit me http://www.albany.net/~brew
Randy Lewis
"If you can boil,you can brew"
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 96 09:18 EST
From: Captain <captain at iquest.net>
Subject: Re: boilers and heat conduction
Subject: Re:boilers and heat conduction
>Regan in Sydney
>I am looking to buy a 40 litre SS boiler, and have seen two types.
>One is made of thin SS all round, and runs $160. The other has an
>aluminium "sandwich" on the base, and costs $280 (!!!). So, in
>terms of heat transfer etc, is it worth the expense to get the
>better quality boiler?
>Ever since reading an article from one of your Ausie compatriots on
>steam, I have been converting and trying to fine tune my own steam
>system. My research condensed down is: the aluminum pot will give
>a give a better heat transfer but is a better heat transfer really
>necessary? You can just increase the btu a little with your burner.
You can do that, but the aluminum sandwich will spread the heat out evenly
and help in eliminating hot spots. Just my .02 worth.
captain at iquest.net
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 96 09:24 EST
From: Captain <captain at iquest.net>
Subject: : Corn Sugar Starter?
>Yeast cannot leave by sugar alone......(or something like that)
>Yeast needs compounds besides sugars to function, which aren't provided by
>pure corn sugar. DME not only contains the sugar, but other nutrients as
>well.
I've had pretty good luck with making yeast starters with pre-boiled honey.
Anyone see any fundimental problems with that?
captain at iquest.net
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 10:27:08 -0500
From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt)
Subject: Avoirdupois to gram conversion
Ken Koupal posted a message asking for sources of balances that
are calibrated in ounces rather than the more usual grams. I
cannot provide such a source, but I can provide the conversion
table that I use with my own balance. Here it is
Gram equivalents of Avoir. Weights
Conversion factors: 1 Ounce=28.35 grams
1 Pound = 453.6 grams
Pounds Ounces Grams
0 0.25 7.1
0 0.50 14.2
0 0.75 21.3
0 1.00 28.4
0 4.00 113.4
0 8.00 226.8
0 12.00 340.2
1 0.00 453.6
1 4.00 567.0
1 8.00 680.4
1 12.00 793.8
2 0.00 907.2
2 4.00 1020.6
2 8.00 1134.0
2 12.00 1247.4
3 0.00 1360.8
3 4.00 1474.2
3 8.00 1587.6
3 12.00 1701.0
4 0.00 1814.4
4 4.00 1927.8
4 8.00 2041.2
4 12.00 2154.6
5 0.00 2268.0
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 11:20:42 -0500
From: KennyEddy at aol.com
Subject: Oops
After digging back through old HBD's I realized that I had credited the wrong
person for the water synthesis info. Dave Draper had apparently made some
postings concerning water profiles but it was AJ deLange who provided the
synthesis information. Credit where credit is due. My (and thanks!)
apologies to both.
Ken
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 11:29:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Michael Orlyk <orlykma at together.net>
Subject: suscribe
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Date: 17 Feb 96 11:54:34 +0500
From: jsburger at xmission.com (John S. Burger)
Subject: Re: Mike's List of homebrew suppliers
On or about Thu, 15 Feb 1996 13:50:05 -0600 Mike White typed the following
words about "Mike's List of homebrew suppliers". My reply is thus...
MW> Well you folks were right. I have recieved and replied to over 150 e-mai
MW> requests for my list of homebrew mail-order suppliers. Many of you have
MW> also asked for a copy of the final list when it is completed in a few
MW> months. (As of now the list is about 11 pages long, I expect the final l
MW> to be about 30 pages in length.)
MW> So to alleviate me from the burden of constantly having to reply to e-mai
MW> requests I have put the latest update of the list on one of my web pages.
MW> Set your browser to:
MW> http://www.datasync.com/~mike/cafe.html
Mike, could you check the source code? There seems to be an error in the link
to Caprail's Cafe.
...Stuff Deleted...
- --
// -= John =- jsburger at xmission.com BIX: jburger
\X/ Via
Amateur Radio KB0ES T
Amiga 2000 H
A2630 A2632 John S. Burger Hooper, UT O
2+14megs RAM R
850meg HD This message was composed on... 2.22
Iomega ZIP 17-Feb-96 11:52:25 MST
- --
Those who talk don't know. Those who don't talk, know.
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 14:40:50 -0500
From: Hettsmac at aol.com
Subject: spent grains
Dear All Grainers,
Any ideas what to do with all those spent grains.
They still contain a lot of good stuff, so how about drying and toasting
them, to get sort of a diluted crystall malt.
Private email is fine, I'll post a summary.
Robert Hett, Hudson, Mass
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 96 12:57 PST
From: Woody Weaver <woody at altair.stmarys-ca.edu>
Subject: Question on bottle washing
Greetings, all;
In a recent HBD, someone suggested washing bottles in a dishwasher
with two ounces of bleach. Neat idea, but I didn't save the email
address of the author... and then when I tried to actually put the
bottles into the dishwasher, I became perplexed. Placing them upside
down on the spines didn't work (the spines were too short, meaning the
bottles would rattle and possibly break in the wash) and I couldn't
figure any good way to anchor them. What sort of geometry are you
using? Are you doing bottles only, or mixing them with something else
to help them remain in place in the washer?
I've been worrying (I know, its bad, but I'm new to the mantra)
about bottle sanitation, and this would be a wonderfully simple
solution. Suggestions welcomed.
- --woody (woody at altair.stmarys-ca.edu)
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 17:58:08 -0500
From: KennyEddy at aol.com
Subject: More Food-Grade Silicone
Thanks to Bruce Taber for his food-grade silicone posting. I found another
which might be a bit more widely available. It's made by Dow-Corning and is
sold as "DAP 100% Silicone Sealant" in the caulk-gun tube (about $4). You
might also find it in a smaller squeeze tube too. It doesn't have any more
identification that that, other than a note on the UPC symbol that says
"Reorder Cat No 8641. It claims 25% joint mobility and -40F to +400F
operation.
There is a note on the tube which reads:
"Safe for food contact: When cured and washed,
ingredients which remain or which could migrate to
food are listed in FDA Regulation No. 21CFR177 2600"
I'd suggest you contact Dow Corning (ask for an MSDS for this product) and/or
the FDA (ask for info on the above regulation) concerning this before you
just plug away with it, but it appears from this note that you should be OK
especially using it in small amounts.
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
The Five-Gallon Plastic Brewery is coming along very nicely, if slowly.
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 21:10:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Mitch Hogg <bu182 at freenet.toronto.on.ca>
Subject: Mash Kettle/Chorine Sanitizer Questions
A couple of questions here:
First, after years of denial, I am finally in the market for a new mash
kettle. The five-gallon enamelled steel canning vessel I inherited (okay,
stole) from my stepmother was fine for my extract days, but now, after
four or five all-grain mashes I've had it (believe me, there is nothing in
the world less fun than trying to stir a mash kettle full to the rim, and
don't even get me started on the logistics of a boil featuring said mash
kettle and two other saucepans--yes indeed, folks; that's three burners
going at once...on an electric stove). At any rate, my pot needs
upgradin'--eight gallons at least, if only to keep the spill rate down.
Now, given the great price differential between aluminum and stainless
steel, I'd like to ask everyone what they'd recommend buying.
Alzheimer's is not a major concern here (nothing's been proved, etc
etc...), but longevity and potential off-flavours are. Two aluminum pots
are more expensive than one SS, but is it really likely I'll wear an
aluminum pot out? (I brew about once a month, and I'm 23, so you do the
math). Also, any personal anecdotes, warnings, words of wisdom, etc,
would be appreciated.
Question two: I've always mixed my bleach solution up at home with cold
water. I can't remember why, but I think Charlie recommends it in NCJHB.
Whatever the case, that's how I do it. Last week, however, my boss (I
work at a winemaking place) asked me why I was mixing up the chorine
sanitizer (the pink powdery stuff; I think it's chemically pretty close
to bleach) with cold water, as she's always used hot. Now this is a woman
who's been making wine for twenty years, so I trust her unconditionally
regarding matters fermentable, but sometimes her grasp on chemistry seems
tenuous at best. So my question is: which of us is right? Does the
temperature of the water prolong the potency of the sanitizer? Does it
matter at all?
TIA for your help,
Mitch.
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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 18:03:25 -0800
From: Eric Farry <e_farry at efn.org>
Subject: I want to be on your mailing list
Please put me on your mailing list.
Thanks,
Eric
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Date: 18 Feb 96 22:07:22 +0100
From: faros at ping.at (Wolfgang L. Wedel)
Subject: Calcium chloride
Dave Miller suggests to use Calcium chloride instead of gipsum to lower the
mash pH. How much does one gram (ounce) rise the ppm levels of Ca and Cl in my
water?
Thanks
Wolfgang
________________________________________________________________
Wolfgang L. Wedel faros at ping.at
Vienna/Austria Fido: 2:310/78.8
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Date: Sun, 18 Feb 96 20:39:58 UT
From: "James Hojel" <JTroy at msn.com>
Subject: Lowering mash pH; how?
I recently moved to Southern California from Colorado. I've had to alter my
brewing practices due to the drastic change in water. The water from my tap
has a pH of over 8 (eight) and a hardness of over 300 ppm (San Diego). I do
not have a detailed water analysis yet, but my problems are obvious! Adding
to the problem is my limited knowledge of water chemistry (up until now, water
was a commodity that I took for granted!).
I would like to find the best and most efficient way of treating my water.
The options that I've discovered are running the water through a de-ionizer,
adding an acid, and a sour mash. Can someone explain the pros and cons of
each process with detailed instructions; quantities; etc?
Thanks for the patience,
JTH
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Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 23:22:08 -0500
From: bob at carol.net (Robert Rogers)
Subject: re: cooling hot wort
i put a large pot inside my brew kettle at the end of the boil for several
minutes to sanitize it. then, when i turn of the heat, i put ice in the pot.
after the wort cools, i take the pot out. real easy. someday i will probably
have a cf chiller, but until then.....
bob rogers
bob at carol.net
"Why, Fritz, alcohol is a gift from God..."
--young Fritz Maytag's Mom
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Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 22:40:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Mitch Hogg <bu182 at freenet.toronto.on.ca>
Subject: Them Crazy Germans
Somehow I managed to just get around to reading HBD 1931 tonight (you
know, it's a good idea to take a look at your saved-messages file every
now and then), and so I have a rather belated response to Carl Etnier's
post about the Budwieser-craving German. Like Carl's father, my old man was
also stationed in Germany for a few years, and he too found a few of
the locals who had developed a fondness for American beer. The worst
offenders, however, were the enlisted folks who couldn't be bothered to
try a few pints of Pils at the local bar but shopped at the CanEx (that
would be the Canadian equivalent of the PX) for the latest offerings from
Molson/Labatts. Somehow the fact that they were living in the land of
beer didn't really sink in to these people. The CanEx also stocked only
Ontario and California wines, even though the base was within spittin'
distance of the Alsacian vinyards, but don't even get me started on that
one. By far the funniest beer in the CanEx, however, was Heineken, whose
box proclaimed proudly, "Imported and distributed in Toronto, Ontario".
That's right, folks; the Dutch beer was sent all the way to Canada,
bought by the Department of National Defense, and sent back to Germany.
Your tax dollars at work. Never mind how markedly different the Heineken
bought in Holland and that made for the export market taste, but just
think about how old that stuff must've been. And in those unprotective
green bottles, no less.
Believe it or not.
Mitch.
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Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 23:35:47 -0500
From: KennyEddy at aol.com
Subject: Experiments and water
Wow, I think I got under a couple fingernails with my recent post on Ale
Experiments and Water Treatment!
Agreed -- the "experiment" was NOT scientific and controlled. In its
inception it wasn't supposed to be. It actually started as a "friendly
competition" betewen me and Gerry, always arguing (amiably) about "you do
this" and "I do that". I guess I was just taken by the few notable
differences and just felt that given those differences, perhaps a few major
causes could be postulated. Maybe not.
Also, on water treatment, I *have* dug out Mr deLange's articles but am just
not enough of a chemist to really figure out from them what to put in (or
even what some of the symbols are -- chemistry idiot at work here). I can
certainly calculate ppm's of mineral ions from basic salt additions (gypsum,
epsom, NaCl, for example), but what this has done (if anything) to pH and
other things is what's stumping me. If I get my basic salt ppm's in the
ballpark, is that close enough? I'm not necessarily interested in making
Burton water to 10% accuracy; if I can make a profile (or a few profiles if
necessary) that's conducive to decent general purpose brewing, I'd be
thrilled.
WIth that I'll let it die.
Ken Schwartz
KennyEddy at aol.com
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 02:30:16 -0500 (EST)
From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu
Subject: Re: Soldering/Hop scales (cheap)
Gary Bud Melton asks:
> I would like to make a racking cane out of copper tubing with a copper
> cap soldered onto the end, but I can't seem to get the hang of
> soldering. The solder just rolls off. I would like for the tubing to
> rest up against one side of the cap. So far I've just gotten big
> globs of solder or had the solder completely roll off. Should I use
> more flux? What exactly constitutes a "thin coat"? And exactly where
> should I be trying to place the solder -- should it go inside the cap,
> so the cane rests in a pool of solder on the inner wall of the cap; or
> should I just put a bead on the outside, where the cane and the cap
> meet?
First off, I'll state the obvious since you didn't mention it, that you
must use lead-free solder. No, you don't need much flux at all, if any,
your problem is that you are heating the solder and not the pipe.
Solder will flow to the source of the heat. The object is NOT to heat
the solder, but to heat the JOINT. Once the piece is hot enough, THEN
touch solder to the rim of the cap and it will flow right into the
joint. You don't want a "pool of solder" inside the pipe, you only want
the solder in the joint between the pipe and the cap. The solder will
fill any void between the pipe and the cap, and you should not have a
raised bead on the outside nor any inside the pipe. It's easy once you
get the hang of it.
>I've been looking at kitchen scales for weighing hops so I can have
>more repeatable results. Does anyone have a recommendation for an
For a cheap hop scale, try the local post office, or look elsewhere for
a postal scale. These are only a couple of bucks. You put some hops
(or whatever) in a baggie and clip them to the scale and hold it up till
it settles. You have to compensate for the baggie of course. It's
quite accurate though.
- --Brian Pickerill, Muncie, IN <00bkpickeril at bsu.edu>
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