HOMEBREW Digest #2006 Tue 09 April 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  lagering temperature stratification (Kathy Booth)
  Brown Oxide Ale (Paul Ward)
  Malt Mills (Robert Servranckx)
  Wyeast 1968 andthe incredible extraction machine... ("Pat Babcock")
  Re- Reculturing Triples/Sai ("Mark Tomusiak")
  Odd Hop Varities ("Clark D. Ritchie")
  hot/cold break-dissolving? (Charlie Scandrett)
  my water treatment error (Rob Lauriston)
  Stella (Glenn Raudins)
  competition reminder (Ray Brice)
  Historical Trivia ("Olson, Greger J - CI/911-2")
  Sources for a large (30qt or so) pressure canner for sterilization (Murray Anderegg)
  Griping and grousing. (Russell Mast)
  Wyeast Ale Test (dhvanvalkenburg)
  Using a 2ndary/irish moss/ups (charles epp)
  Old yeast into boil? (P. Edwards)
  UPS, hopping liberty ale and achor steam (HOMEBRE973)
  Archive file decompression (Orval Jewell)
  Re: Search and Seizure (Tidmarsh Major)
  Louvier's water analysis (Raymond Louvier)
  Dilute Bleach Solution (Mike_Bell)
  Resuspension of break material... ("Pat Babcock")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 07:42:42 -0400 (EDT) From: Kathy Booth <kbooth at isd.ingham.k12.mi.us> Subject: lagering temperature stratification Greetings. The chest freezer I lager in went kaput and I'm trying to chill by freezing plastic milk containers of water in an upright and then placing them in the broken chest freezer. The temperature at the top of the fermenters is 49 degrees F and at the bottom the temp is 38 d F. As the yeast is more at the bottom, is that the effective lagering temperature? Has anybody lagered under similar circumstances of stratified temperatures and how did it work out? Thanks and Cheers Jim Booth, Lansing, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 09:50:20 -0400 (EDT) From: Paul Ward <paulw at doc.state.vt.us> Subject: Brown Oxide Ale OK, I'm stupid at times, I'll admit it, but jeesh..... I had brewed Papazian's Elbro Nerkte, followed directions to the letter this time, and was feeling really good about the beer. It looked and smelled fantastic as I was bottling yesterday, maybe a little too sweet, I have to improve my hop utilization. Anyway,...after bottling about 24 bottles I slapped my forehead and said, "Oh, shucks!" (or something to that effect). I forgot to add priming sugar (how do you spell 'DOH!'). Being a creature of habit, I imediatley threw my 3/4 c. corn sugar into 2 cups of water and set it on to boil as I uncapped 24 bottles of beer. Now at this point it dawned on me that, had I kept the sugar as powder, I could have just added some to each of the bottles, and then boiled the rest to add to the bottling bucket. Sigh. So I did the next illogical thing and emptied the 24 bottles of beer back into the bottling bucket, assuring that all 5 gallons would be equally oxidized. I added the cooled sugar solution, stirred, and re-bottled. So anyway, I now have 5 gallons of oxidized brown ale. What's it gonna taste like? Should I plan on drinking this one quickly, letting it age longer to mellow out, or just quitting and giving it away? Am I going to have to turn in my learner's permit? Paul (Gump) Ward paulw at doc.state.vt.us - -- If vegetarians eat vegetables, what of humanitarians? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 10:33:22 -0700 From: Robert Servranckx <Robert_Ser at ceo.sts-systems.ca> Subject: Malt Mills Fellow HBDers, I am looking to purchase a malt mill. My local homebrew supply shop has two that are within my price range: a PhilMill (125$ Cnd) and a three-roller Italian mill (95$ Cnd). I've previously used the PhilMill and like its results, but I've never heard of this three-roller Italian mill... So, before dishing out an additional 30$ for a PhilMill, I thought I'd give the collective a chance to comment on the three-roller Italian mill first... Has anyone used this mill before and is it any good and worth the money? I love to get some feedback... Thanks in advance. Rob in Montreal Robert_Ser at ceo.sts-systems.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 21:44:47 +0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Wyeast 1968 andthe incredible extraction machine... Welcome, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... In HBD 2003, Dutch sez... > Hi HBD this will be my first posting to the digest. Hi! And welcome! Here's my two-bit analysis of what you've said... > I use Wyeast 1968 for almost every ale I brew and have also found > it not to be very(?) anttenuative. The yeast I use I get from a > brew pub (Barley's ale house no.1 Columbus, OH.) I help brew there > sometimes and can stop in and get yeast whenever I need some. I > have used varying amounts (from 2oz to 8oz packed yeast) for > pitching and have not found the amount to affect the the FG. In The pitching rate normally _won't_ affect the FG; just the rate at which you get there. A larger, healthier population will ferment the sugars faster, that's all. The "banquet" is the same size - just a whole lot more dining on it. > the last batch I brewed I agitated my primary (after 3 days) and > secondary (after 4 & 7 days) fermenters by swirling and found the > fermentation rate to increase. My thought was this stuff packs so > fast and so tight that maybe I need to get the yeast back into > suspention (the brewer at Barley's thought I was crazy.) So anyway Don't know why a "professional" brewer would think that rousing the yeast would be crazy. Common practice, particularly with highly flocculent strains. Don't be fooled into thinking that the bubbling you get immediately after swirling the fermenter is an increase in the rate of fermentation, though. Not only will swirling the fermenter get the yeast back ingot suspension, but it will also knock a lot of the CO2 out of solution, causing increased bubbling of the airlock... > I forgot to take a final gravity reading (Duh) but the beer was > definatly more atenuated then the brew before that used the same > recipe. My findings were recently confermed when I got a copy of Without that hydrometer reading, it's hard to tell whether rousing had any affect at all. I've had increase fermentation by rousing 1968 in some recipes, none in others. 1968 is a sluggish fermenter at best. As indicated it floccs out pretty quickly once the turbulence of the kraeusen is past. > The recipe I tried this with was an IPA. > 8 lbs Alexanders Pale syrup > 1-1/2 lb Muton & Fison Lt. DME > 1/2 lb 20l crystal > 4 oz centenial (whole leaf) hops alpha 11.4 > 2 oz boil > 1 oz finish > 1 oz dry > 1/2 oz hungarian med toast oak > 1/2 oz freanch med toast oak > no steaming, 2 weeks in secondary Expected OG of roughly 1.078. > Yesterday I tried this recipie but substituted 10 lbs klages for > 4lbs of alexanders and 1-1/2 lb Mf/lt. OG 1072 which is a little > low, I stopped my collection of the run off to soon. (I don't think > I eill use that 1010 rule any more.) I like big beers!!!! 72 * 5 / 10 = 36 pg/p - A phenomenal extraction rate! Most brewers strain to achieve 30, let alone 36. You sure about these numbers?!? If so, you're a little confused. That OG isn't low for the grain bill - it's huge! (Yes, in comparison to the extract recipe, the OG is lower; however, you really can't ask for much more out of ten pounds of barley!) Whatever you did, keep doing it. You've achieved as near a lab-mash as any I've seen... To up the gravity in future batches, up the grain bill. The 1.010 rule-of-thumb is more to protect your brew from defects resulting from rinsing nasty stuff from the grain than it is to ensure you get all the sugars. See ya! Pat Babcock in Canton, Michigan (Western Suburb of Detroit) pbabcock at oeonline.com URL: http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/ Take advantage of the Drinkur Purdee document echo! Send a note to pbabcock at oeonline.com with the word help on the subject line to see what's on tap! Return to table of contents
Date: 8 Apr 1996 08:11:30 -0800 From: "Mark Tomusiak" <Mark.Tomusiak at amgen.com> Subject: Re- Reculturing Triples/Sai Subject: Time: 7:44 AM OFFICE MEMO Re: Reculturing Triples/Saisons Date: 4/8/96 Hi Mark...read your question about culturing yeasts from Triples/Saisons = with interest. I don't know about the Rochefort yeast, but I recently = cultured the yeast from a bottle of Dupont "Avec les Bons Voeux" (a = Christmas beer from Dupont, but very much in the saison style), and to my = surprise it started growing very quickly. I was able to plate some out = and examine the culture under a microscope; colony morphology appeared = uniform on the plates and I couldn't see anything but yeast under the = scope, so I decided to try it in a batch. It's two weeks in the bottle = now and I haven't tried any yet, but I can say that it produced a very = vigorous fermentation. I did note some banana esters when I bottled it, = but I don't know if those will stick around or not. Hope this helps and = good luck, Mark Tomusiak Boulder, Colorado Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 08:16:15 -0700 From: "Clark D. Ritchie" <ritchie at ups.edu> Subject: Odd Hop Varities All, After discovereing a few inconsistencies between the Hop FAQ and other hop literature on the Net, I am compiling a list of different hop varities and need some help. Does anyone know anything (specifically the AA%) about: 1. Comet 2. Huller 3. Orion 4. Super Styrian 5. Viking 6. Yeoman Also, this might be a stupid question, but I've seen references to [just] Goldings. Is this short for BC and/or East Kent Goldings? Is [just] Goldings another variety altogether or are there others? Similarly, I've also seen references to [just] Hallertauer. Is this short for Mittelfrueh and/or Hersbrucker? Is [just] Hallertauer another variety altogether or are there others? TIA... CDR Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie at ups.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 00:22:42 +1000 From: merino at cynergy.com.au (Charlie Scandrett) Subject: hot/cold break-dissolving? In HBD #2005, Matthew A. Wuerstl wrote, >Subject: hot break and immersion chillers... >Anyway, one question I saw and never read an answer to, was will the >coagulated proteins in the hot break go back into solution if you >chill the wort this way. <SNIP> > After boiling the canned wort for >30 minutes in a water bath, I removed the jars and noticed that the >wort was crystal clear, with big clumps of protein on the bottom of >each jar. The jars were left to cool and seal on the counter overnight. >When I checked them this morning, the wort had become cloudy again and >the protein sediment looked more loosely concentrated and was tending >to float apart. >Any comments? The "hot break" is denatured medium to high molecular weight proteins in complex with other things. This means that the hydrogen and disulphide bonds that hold these polypeptides in their pleated, helical and globular shapes have been broken, leaving sites exposed for intermolecular bonds to form "flocs" (gooey lumps), usually with polyphenolics and tannins and starch and lipids and iso-alpha acids etc. The solubility of these proteins is also changed because their electrical polarity is changed by this denaturing. The net polarity of various proteins gives them a pH of minimum solubility called their "isoelectric point", but the structure also influences solubility and colloidal dispersability. Cooling may change the pH slightly and affect the strength of floc bonding? I do know it cannot "renature" proteins, i.e. rebuild the broken structures, they are simply too complex to reform. The only way to redissolve hot break is to boil the hell out of it for hours on end until the denatured polypeptides (a little like a ball of spaghetti) break down into simple polypeptides, ( a few peptides joined in linear structure, like short 1" bits of spaghetti) these are highly soluble. Cold break is simpler hot break,( i.e. the polypeptides and polyphenolics are less complex, hence more soluble) with a much higher and variable lipid content. Anyone who has watched a fatty scum form on a cooling bowl of soup will realise that fatty things are less soluble at colder temperatures, hence Matthew's cloudy jars the following morning. They also tend to rise, hence the success of seperating cold break by flotation during aeration, and hence its slower settling period. Cold break contains nothing that can redissolve hot break, you *can* cool in the kettle safely with immersion chillers. The Protein FAQ I'm working on is almost finished and will take up a whole HBD soon. Charlie (Brisbane, Australia) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 96 08:32 PDT From: robtrish at mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston) Subject: my water treatment error Could someone help me out here? (I need it!) After a long while brewing with my water as is, I began treating my water with gypsum (CaSO4) by adding it directly to the mash. I'm wondering how many other people may be doing the same thing that I was - -- adding all of their salts to the mash, and calculating the amount of salts according to the total amount of beer being made rather than according to the amount of mash water. Since the volume of mash water is less than the amount of beer, I end up with higher concentrations than intended, no? I should use more salts for a thin mash than for a thick one to arrive at the same ppms? I was (am) confused by not really thinking about what I was doing, and by articles that talk about how much salt you have to add for a five gallon batch. My other question was about a shortcut I've been taking, adding the gypsum with the grist when I am mashing in. How would this be different from treating all the mash water first? Generally it would mean that I'm mashing with untreated water for the first few minutes, but what would be the specific effects? I'm doing a temperature program mash starting at around 60'C in a thin mash, but protecting B-amylase at the very beginning shouldn't be a problem, should it? For things that happen in the boil (sulphates and hops) it shouldn't matter? I'm starting with quite soft water, pH 7.0, total alkalinity 23, bicarbonate 23, carbonate 0 mg/L all given as CaCO3; calcium 0.6 mg/L and sulphate 8 mg/L. I've been adding 30 g gypsum to make 55 litres of beer. Thanks in advance, - -- Rob Lauriston Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 08:39:34 -0700 (PDT) From: raudins at lightscape.com (Glenn Raudins) Subject: Stella In reference to my question about what beers are to be had in Egypt, I went and saw. Stella is the beer of choice (It happens to be the only choice.) There is Stella and Stella Export, the export is harder to find. All in all, for the only beer available it is better than the standard American Lager on the market here. It is served in what appears to be about 20 oz bottle, just a bit smaller than a bomber bottle. It sold from around $2.50 to $3.00 in the tourist traps. Glenn Raudins Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 10:09:05 -0600 (MDT) From: Ray Brice <ray at hwr.arizona.edu> Subject: competition reminder Reminder:, The 3rd Annual Naked Pueblo Homebrew Competition will take place Saturday April 21st at: Trios in the Plaza Palomino corner of Swan and Ft. Lowell Tucson, Arizona First Round Judging will begin at 10:00. Best of Show Judging will begin at 2:00. Awards ceremony will begin at 5:00. This competition will be held in conjunction with "The Great Tucson Beer Festival." All judges and stewards will be given free admittance to this event. This is an AHA and BJCP sanctioned competition featuring all AHA categories. Please contact John Francisco (520) 743-7961; cisco at tabasco.ccit.arizona.edu or Jim Liddil (520) 881-8768; jliddil at azcc.arizona.edu for a free entrants packet. Complete on-line registration for entries and judges is available on the Competition Homepage (http://www.hwr.arizona.edu/agu/oph/naked.html). Winner's of each category will receive awards. Best of Show will receive a $100 gift certificate to the Home Brewery in Sierra Vista, Arizona. 2nd and 3rd place in each category will receive ribbons. Cheers, John Francisco Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 96 08:25:00 PDT From: "Olson, Greger J - CI/911-2" <gjolson at bpa.gov> Subject: Historical Trivia I recently looked through a combination recipe/advice/advertisements book given to my grandmother after she got married in Tacoma back in 1928. There were no less than three ads for local hopped malt extract, and this in what was not a particularly large city. One of these, by Berg & Son, touted their "Hop Flavored Malt Syrup" for "Hop Scotch Candy". My question is this: has there ever been any common use for malt extract other than brewing? I suspect each can came with: Warning! - Do not add yeast and let ferment or an illegal alcoholic beverage might result! :-) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 12:26:59 -0400 From: Murray Anderegg <anderegg at divnc.com> Subject: Sources for a large (30qt or so) pressure canner for sterilization I'm looking for something large enough to do some decent sized starters. In particular, I tend to use 1, 1.5 and 3 liter Luminarc (rubber gasket flip top type) canning jars. Has anyone had success with the 3 liter jars inside of a 22 qt canner? It seems as though the 3 liter jars are a bit too big for a 22 qt canner. I saw an online source, once, for a 30qt pressure canner, but I didn't save it and haven't been able to relocate the source. Any pointers, anyone? I'll gladly summarize in later posting. - --Murray - -------------------------------------------------------- - --Murray Anderegg | Division, Inc. murray.anderegg at divnc.com | 431 W Franklin St #10 (+1 919) 969-1011 fax: 1016 | Chapel Hill, NC 27516, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 12:10:35 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Griping and grousing. > From: cisco at tabasco.ccit.arizona.edu > Subject: We are all criminals to UPS!!!! > (Are we living in a police state > now and no one bothered to tell us?) As obnoxious and inconvenient as it is, they are a private company and can pretty much do whatever they want to. Obviously, we can go somewhere else. I think that shipipng homebrew should be perfectly legal and acceptable to everyone. Chances are they wouldn't bug you anyway, and after they open the package, you can still lie to them and say it's homemade root beer. I think they have a right to protect themselves from bombs and similar weird shit people might ship. > 2. Take your business to one of those Mailbox Etc places > and pay the extra money to have them ship it for you. That's what I do anyway since one of those places is a block from my house and the nearest official UPS dropoff is a 30 minute drive, and I got no car. > Be carefull out there - big brother UPS is watching! They're a private business. Taking your stuff and putting it on their trucks. I think they have a right to check what's in it first. If they were a monopoly, or in any way involved in the government, the "police state" language would be called for. As it is, it's just crying wolf. When the real police state comes, people will be so fed up with overstated accusations that they won't take the warnings seriously. > From: Dan Gerth <dgerth at lanl.gov> > Subject: Automagic scale machine > Boy, I thought this thing died about 20 years ago.....When I was fresh out > of school and working in the water treatment industry we used to keep a file > of all these gizmos. When I was your age, sonnyboy, we used to eat inductive scale resonators for breakfast. And we liked it. > These things pop > up all the time, and they have NEVER been scientifically proven to work > (cited studies or not). They have been scientifically proven to work, in limited circumstances, via an as-yet-unknown mechanism. It's been in the last month or two that they were shown to work. So, don't say "NEVER" unless you've read every study done on them. I'm not trying to say these things live up to the claims they make in their advertisements. I'm not advising anyone to buy one without independently confirming they work, and maybe not even then. I'm just saying, there IS evidence they work, and I think people who claim to know things they don't need a little thump now and then. <thump> There ya go. Finally, these things are useless for brewing even if they work exactly as advertised. So, don't buy one for your beer. -R Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 96 10:17:46 PST From: dhvanvalkenburg at CCGATE.HAC.COM Subject: Wyeast Ale Test I am, with the help of several club members from the Long Beach Homebrewers, doing a test of the basic Wyeast ale strains. All packets were obtained at the same time with the same date. They were only a few weeks old at time of popping the pouch. We are using all the same wort, half of which was provided from our local brew-pub and half from extract. We did 2 gal batches in 2.8 gal carboys so that we would have sufficient results from each batch to go around at the club. While the purpose of the test is to taste the different strains that are fermented with the same wort and under the same conditions, we noticed a dramatically different rate of growth among the different strains. I devised a way of measuring the packets by laying a stick across the middle of the packet with one end of the stick taped down. The height of the other end became my measure of the packet. With a scale of 1-10, 10 being a fully inflated packet, here is the results of those measurements. Temp. Range 68-70F WYEAST TYPE 12 Hrs 24Hrs 38 Hrs 1007 German 1.6 3.2 7.4 1028 London 5 10 10 1056 American 5.2 10 10 1084 Irish 4 8.6 10 1098 British 6.6 10 10 1338 European 2.4 4 7.4 1728 Scottish 5 10 10 1968 London ESB 1.4 3 5.8 They are still in the carboys and the ultimate test is in sampling the results, but it looks like the race being won by British 1098 which is appearing nearly finished after only 2 days. Will update as results become available. Don Van Valkenburg-----dhvanvalkenburg at CCGATE.HAC.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 12:52:02 -0500 (EST) From: charles epp <cepp at indiana.edu> Subject: Using a 2ndary/irish moss/ups 1.USING A 2NDARY: What are the collective's thoughts on using a secondary before bottling/kegging? I've done both -- bottled after fermenting only in a primary and after transferring to a secondary -- and I can see only one benefit and several costs to transferring to a 2ndary: benefit: after bottling, there is less yeast sediment in the bottles, making it easier to pour. (But I've never noticed any significant degradation due to the greater amount of yeast in my bottled beer taken directly from the primary, even after 8 months in the bottle.) costs: Using a 2ndary adds hassle and introduces some oxygen, no matter how careful I am. Thus, using only a primary (glass) has only 1 cost (less yeast in bottle) and great benefits in less oxygen introduced. Also, I've never had any off-tastes from leaving the fermented beer on the yeast (and I've left it on up to 4 weeks after the start of fermentation) (as others noted here, there seems to be no problem with this). QUESTION: are there any real benefits to using a 2ndary? 2: IRISH MOSS: does using Irish Moss affect hop utilization, especially the level of hop character in the finished beer? 3. UPS & THE CONSTITUTION: Pat Babcock speculates that the Constitution will somehow prohibit UPS from inspecting our packages (if indeed they do). He's wrong. The Constitution limits only what government or government officials may do. UPS is a private organization and, like any other business corporation, can do whatever they want to your constitutional rights (except for practicing discrimination, which is prohibited by the Civil Rights Act, a congressional statute). Chuck Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 12:57:47 -0500 From: pedwards at iquest.net (P. Edwards) Subject: Old yeast into boil? I was browsing the book rack at the local HB retailer the other day and came across someting I'd never heard before in a book called "50 tips for homebrewers" or some such title. Anyway, this book recommended that kit brewerss take the generic yeast that came with the kit and toss it into the boiling wort, claiming that this added nutritive value to the wort. The book did go onto say to use a decent dry or liquid yeast for fermenting. Does anyone know if the claim is true? Or is it an old brewer's tale? I teach beginning and intermediate HB classes and tell people to use the kit yeast to make bread, but every so often, someone who's seen this tip asks about its veracity. Thanks. private e-mail is fine... - --Paul E (pedwards at iquest.net) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 14:41:33 -0400 From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: UPS, hopping liberty ale and achor steam I called UPS and asked them if they open packages. They just laughed and said we would never have time to open packages and reseal them. The post may have been an April Fool's joke or maybe some local aberration. On another subject, what are the current hop profiles for Liberty Ale and Anchor Steam and if they are dry hopped, what type is used? Also, what are their optimal fermintation temps? Andy Kligerman Hillsborough, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 12:51:04 -0700 From: Orval Jewell <ojewell at thegrid.net> Subject: Archive file decompression Hi All, I have been reading HBD for a couple of months now. I really enjoy the wit and knowledge of so many of you. This is a very simple question, but I don't know where else to turn. I went to the archive folder for HBD 1995 and downloaded several files. I would like to know what utility I need to decompress these files. The extension of the compressed files is z as (1620.z) I would love to read them, so any help would be appreciated. Orval Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 16:32:10 -0400 (EDT) From: Tidmarsh Major <tmajor at parallel.park.uga.edu> Subject: Re: Search and Seizure On Mon, 8 Apr 1996, in HBD #2005: > > I just got back from UPS shipping two entries to the AHA > > nationals and was very surprised by a new policy at UPS. > > ALL PACKAGES WILL BE OPENED AND INSPECTED. > > <SNIP> > > > Everyone should call UPS and file a formal complaint about > > this 'police state' tactic. Don't bother complaining to the > > customer service representative that answers the phone, > > ask to speak to their supervisor to file a formal compliant. > > ANAL (Am Not A Lawyer), but this "policy" sounds like an invasion of > privacy. You know - unconstitutional? They can't even look in your > GARBAGE CAN without having a warrant. What gives the UPS the right > to search through something that you _haven't_ discarded? Hey, I'm not a lawyer either, but I believe that the crucial factor in this case is that the Constitution ONLY applies to the Government. Because UPS is a private shipper, the relationship between you the customer and them the shipper is purely contractual. If you don't want your package opened, don't ship UPS. It's not a "police state tactic" because it's not the state. The Constitution doesn't apply. Tidmarsh Major tmajor at parallel.park.uga.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 14:22:28 -0700 From: rlouvier at ix.netcom.com (Raymond Louvier) Subject: Louvier's water analysis Hi ya'll, Well I sure enjoyed watching my water analysis being evaluated. The discussions were great. I've been away from computer for a week and today when I logged in the information came flowing in. I want to thank every one of you for taking the time to help me out. I haven't gone through all the information but it seems my water can be helped. With all this newly acquired knowledge from all of you I can see light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks to all, Ray Louvier Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 17:10:23 -0400 From: Mike_Bell at ccmail.va.grci.com Subject: Dilute Bleach Solution I have been mixing up a dilute solution of bleach, and storing it for several months to sanitize fermenters and associated equipment that comes in contact with wort. Papazian recommends this in one of his books. I prefer bleach over iodophor due to cost. I've stored this dilute solution for several months and still get a strong chlorine odor from anything extracted from the solution. I've noticed that if the bleach is used in low concentrations a gray sandy precipitate develops in the bottom of the solution after a couple of weeks. If stirred it won't dissolve again, but will cause the solution to become cloudy and will quickly precipitate again. Higher concentrations do not have any indications of precipitates. The bleach is a cheap off-brand, but it does say that the active ingredient is 5% sodium hypochlorite, the same as Chlorox. Any ideas from the chemists in the group as to the nature of the precipitate, and the sanitizing effectiveness of long-stored dilute bleach solution? I've never had an infection problem that I know of. Regards, Mike Bell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 21:50:18 +0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Resuspension of break material... Greetings, Beerling! Take me to your lager... In HBD 2004, Matthew A. Wuerstl talks about hot break and immersion chillers... > Some observations from last nights wort canning proceedings. If I <SNIP-A-ROONEY!> > some other source.) Anyway, one question I saw and never read an > answer to, was will the coagulated proteins in the hot break go > back into solution if you chill the wort this way. Here's what I > observed last night. I boiled up a 2 gallon starter batch of wort > to can and use for yeast starters. I chilled in my brew kettle and <SNIP SOME MORE. If you need to, you can read it in #2004> > on something like this? Any comments? Yeah. One: I do a very similar thingy when canning starters - the exception being that I measure the extract directly to the jar, top up, and pressure can. I have the jungle of break material at the bottom of the jar; however, all my starters are crystal clear - from the time the product is hot to to now, six months later. Go figure. See ya! Pat Babcock in Canton, Michigan (Western Suburb of Detroit) pbabcock at oeonline.com URL: http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/ President, Brew-Master and Chief Taste-Tester Drinkur Purdee pico Brewery Return to table of contents