HOMEBREW Digest #2018 Tue 23 April 1996
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
copyright (Rolland Everitt)
celebrities (Wallinger)
Testing CO2 Tanks (UTC -04:00)" <rich.byrnes at e-mail.com>
Bottling for competition (Denis Barsalo)
Re:Flavenoids (Russell Mast)
copyright (ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT)
Temp changes (Rosenzweig,Steve)
Brewing early and PLAID! (ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT)
Philly -> DC Brews Cruise (Joe Uknalis)
All-grain recipe (George Hoenninger)
dry ice in brewing ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
CaraPils and Dextrine in the Wort (Bunning W Maj ACC/DOTE)
Carbonator (Mike Urseth)
To rack or not to rack (Dave Mercer)
U.S. Open competition results ("Keith Royster")
First Beer Taste (Milton Cook)
Re: Flavenoids (Debisschop)
Recipes for wine ("MK3052")
Ropy Kite. (Russell Mast)
Dry Ice, Maple Syrup. (Russell Mast)
Explain My Extract Yield Increase! (Marty Tippin)
Reverse Osmosis Filtered Water (Jeff Jones)
mini-keg suppliers (Graham Cunningham)
My clean out the closet recipie (Mike White)
Long slow fermentation (TBrouns)
Kegs - Ball vs. Pin Lock ("Stephen Palmer")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 07:53:26 -0400
From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt)
Subject: copyright
I have an article on copyright in general with particular
application to articles posted on on-line discussion groups. It
is too long to post here, but I will be glad to email a copy to
anyone who makes the request (private email please). The article
was written by Brad Templeton.
Rolland Everitt
af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 06:51:31 -0500
From: Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com>
Subject: celebrities
Person A. ...Russell Mast, probably one of the most
intelligent man in the northern hemisphere
Person B. As for the creeping charlie thing, I have
no clue,I've heard they're good with napalm.
(I couldn't resist. Apologies to anyone
with good taste, that was really bad.) -R
Any resemblance between these two individuals is
puely cooincidental...:-)
Wade Wallinger
Pascagoula, Mississippi
http://www.datasync.com/~wawa
Sorry Russell, I couldn't resist either!
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 08:34:42 EDT
From: "Rich Byrnes USAET(UTC -04:00)" <rich.byrnes at e-mail.com>
Subject: Testing CO2 Tanks
Greetings from Motown, well close enough anyways
As far as hydro-testing CO2 tanks my advice is CALL AROUND! And
yes, I was yelling! I found a place that really specializes in
dry ice but also does a nice business with plain old CO2 gas.
They test tanks for $8 (and fill my 20lber for the same.)
I have also found a welding gas supplier that would fill a 20lb
tank of CO2-N2 mixture for $8, but a hydro test runs about $20,
so the moral is "let your fingers do the walking!" Look up
carbonation, welding gases, dry ice, gas, etc in your yellow
pages and you might be surprised what you come up with.
Regards,_Rich Byrnes Jr
Fermental Order of Renaissance Draughtsmen \\\|///
phone #(313)323-2613, fax #390-4520_______o000_(.) (.)_000o
Rich.Byrnes at E-mail.com (_)
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:40:53 -0500
From: denisb at cam.org (Denis Barsalo)
Subject: Bottling for competition
I've been making beer for over a year now and have been brewing all
grain for about six months. I'm starting to make some really good beer from
some of my formulated recipes and I would like to enter some in competition
so I can get some feedback from "decent" beer judging. My problem is, that
I bottle exclusively with swing-top bottles (Grolsch like) and these are
not usually accepted in competition.
Can someone please tell me why?
Would it be possible to "transfer" the beer from one of my
swing-tops to another type of bottle without introducing to much oxygen,
and without loosing too much carbonation? I could even leave behind the
sediment!
I guess I should just crimp a few ordinary bottles (like 6 to 8)
and save those for competition. If the beer turns out to be another winner,
I'll already have it in "regular" bottles to ship out to the judges! But
seeing how I've accumulated a few hundred swing-tops, I don't really have
anymore room for bottle storage.
Any advice would be apreciated.
Thanks
Denis Barsalo
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:07:53 -0500
From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com>
Subject: Re:Flavenoids
> I suspect that guy at UW owes us some
> answers about why darker beers contain more than lighter beers. He should
> also explain that statement about "particles called wort" being removed from
> lighter beers, if in fact those *were* his words.
In fairness to Dr. Folts, I should pint out that the article I read was from
an AP newswire, and he likely had little control over the content thereof.
Still, I would like to know what gives beer flavenoids, and why some are more
equal than others.
> My recommendation? Be on the safe side, drink a glass of porter every day.
I'll tell the barkeep "My pharmacist recommended this."
-R
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:23:59 -0500
From: ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT <skotrat at wwa.com>
Subject: copyright
>i'm not a lawyer, so i don't give legal advice, but:
>yes, you have a natural copyright...
>but, you can only sue if you register it.
>the gentleman in question, if he is duping HBD to CD ROM is violating the
>natural copyrights of everyone who posts. we could technically launch a
>class action suit against him, but since none of us has any money involved
>(excluding any home brewing authors, of course) it might be hard to prove
>any sort of monetary damages.
>i would be interested in obtaining the CD, though, since i could erase all
>the old digests from my hard drive.
>bob -- brewing in the buckle of the bible belt.
>bob rogers, bob at carol.net
Anything that you write and is your orginal product that is published with
your name on it is owned by you. You have all power to allow who uses it and
who doesn't use it from a legal standpoint. It is not public domain.
Scott
- ------------------------------
####################################################
# Scott Abene #
# skotrat at wwa.com #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat #
# (Skotrats Official Homebrew "Beer Slut" Webpage) #
# "Get off your dead ass and brew" #
####################################################
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 07:29:15 PDT
From: Steve_Rosenzweig at wb.xerox.com (Rosenzweig,Steve)
Subject: Temp changes
In HBD 2016, David asks about temperature changes affecting his beer:
>I store my bottles of beer in an unused room
>in my apartment to age out. We never heat it during the winter because it
>would cost too much (electric heat's durn expensive!). Now in the spring
>we will experience 70 degree weather on day and 30 degree weather the
>very next (I live in Montana where it's actually the weather that's
>crazy, not the people :). Could the radical change in temperature (more
>like a difference of 20 F inside the room) shock the yeast and kill it or
>something?
Temp fluctuations may wreak havoc on your aging beer - my guess is that
it can't be beneficial.
My experience says that carbonation is mostly done after a week, so I
keep my cases at around 68F for the first week after bottling then
move them to the basement - so you might want to keep them out of that
room initially, then move them in for longer term storage/aging.
For your case, if practical in your storage room, you could get a
plastic utility tub or two, put your bottles in that, and fill the tub
with water up to the neck of the bottles. If you are _really_
confident of your capping job, I suppose you could fill the entire
thing and put as many bottles as possible - all that should happen is
possibly rusty caps . . .
The water will create a thermal blanket that will ease the sway of
temperatures. This is also a good trick to use for primary/secondary
fermenting as well if you don't have a good temp controlled environment.
Stephen
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:30:39 -0500
From: ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT <skotrat at wwa.com>
Subject: Brewing early and PLAID!
>Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 07:07:47 -0400 (EDT)
>From: CHRISTOPHER DIIORIO <pher at acc.msmc.edu>
>Subject: Brewing before 6am...
>
>All,
>
>Well, I have just learned the hard way that, no matter HOW bad you want to
>do it, you shouldn't brew before 6am (at least not alone). >what I call
successful, starter when, in my blurry haze, I knocked
>the bottle over, spilling it all over the floor! I saved about 20% that
>didn't spill, but my "perfect" starter went all over everywhere.
>Now, I'm not AGAINST brewing before the sun comes up, or after it is LONG
>gone, its just that I recommend doing so with a partner. In the very
>least, you can have someone to complain to (and maybe even blame?, just
>kidding) if your starter/wort/brew pot is knocked over.
>
>Chris DiIorio
>(Boy, this homebrew in my coffee mug is Darn good, just don't tell my boss!)
>
>BTW -- I was wearing PLAID boxer shorts, could this have been the cause?
Now how many times does this problem need to be discussed before these damn
Homebrewers get it through their skulls...
One more time...
DO NOT... I REPEAT!
DO NOT BREW AROUND PLAID (the dark side is too strong)!!!
This is no joking matter. An awful lot of brewers just don't seem to follow
this simple rule.
Hey Pat Babcock!!! Would you please post a some of your horrors of brewing
around plaid.
Have you all forgotten that Pat has a carboy making its way to the basement
steps?
We now take you back to your "PLAID FREE" scheduled HBD program.
These comments are copyright 1996, by the Boston Brewing Company & Little
Jimmy Koch
(you copy me or have a product that even rhymes with anything I sell or make
and I'll sue your sorry ass)
>
>------------------------------
>
####################################################
# Scott Abene #
# skotrat at wwa.com #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat #
# (Skotrats Official Homebrew "Beer Slut" Webpage) #
# "Get off your dead ass and brew" #
####################################################
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:47:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Joe Uknalis <juknalis at ARSERRC.Gov>
Subject: Philly -> DC Brews Cruise
Dear Homebrewers-
On Saturday May 11 Homebrewers of Philly & Suburbs (HOPS)
is running a bus trip from Philly to 3 DC brewpubs (see details
below). If you are in the Phila/South Jersey area and would like
to come give Gwyn Rector a call at (215) 635-4257 by this Friday.
Cost is $45 HOPS members/$50 nonmember.
Saturday May 11
8:30 Meet at Adams Mark Hotel, City Line. Cruise down on bus
equipped with VCR, frig & toilet.
noon- The Big Hunt. Choice of chicken breast, hamburger or grilled
cheese. Generous sampler of 4 or 5 local brews.
2:30 Cap City 5 beer tutored tasting & tour of brewery
4:00 Bardo. Choice of grilled portabello baguette, chicken tenderloin or
turkey sausage. 4 brew sampler & tour. 5 pool tables reserved
Other beer bars (notably Blue & Gold) in walking distance from Bardo.
8:00 Head back to Philly
thanks for use of the bandwith
Joe Uknalis
HOPS prez.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 11:13:05 -0400
From: George Hoenninger <george at smarts.com>
Subject: All-grain recipe
I recently tried my first all-grain batch and the results were very
disappointing. After carefully going over the whole procedure I was able to
pinpoint many of my mistakes. I would like to know, if this recipe sounds
like a good one? I would like to try it again and see how the beer improves
by fixing my errors. Any suggestions or modifications to the recipe would
be welcome. Here is the recipe:
Ingredients: (5 gal.)
10 lbs. British Pale Ale Malted Barley
1 lb. Roasted Unmalted Barley
1 lb. Flaked Barley
2 lbs. Flaked Oats
1 lb. Chocolate Malted Barley
1 lb. Crystal 40L
1 lb. Black Malted Barley
2 lbs. Dark Malt Extract (For an X-tra kick)
3 oz. Centennial Hop Pellets (Boiling)
1 oz. Tettnang Hop Pellets (Finishing)
#1028 Brewers Choice London Liquid Yeast
OG 1.096 FG 1.024 Alcohol Content about 9.5%
Also, how much will step mashing improve the overall product? Is it worth
doing?
You can either post your responses to the list or e-mail me directly
(george at smarts.com).
Thanks in advance for everybody's help and input.
A new and hopefully improving brewer.
George
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:36:33 -0500
From: "MICHAEL L. TEED" <MS08653 at msbg.med.ge.com>
Subject: dry ice in brewing
.int homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com
Having become curious again over the dry ice in brewing thread, I asked
a chemist at one of our major corn based adjunct brewing companies
about the possibility of contaminants, especially oil in the dry ice.
His response is that there is very little concern for contaminants, and
that there are steps in their process that use it. They test for oil
by dissolving the dry ice in clean water and add a chip of camphor to the
water, if there is any oil present, the camphor will scoot around on the
surface of the water. According to him, this test is done for security,
and they have never found a problem with the dry ice. Hope this helps
satisfy the curiousity.
BTW, bring on more of the automated sparge thread! Would love to see mine
take less time and 'adjustment'. Any good ideas on how to throttle down the
outgoing end of the lautertun? I have been using a restrictor on the end
of my hose, but that can get clogged up by grain husks rather easily. I was
thinking about making a new copper tube bottom with approx .050" holes,
using about 15-20 of them. My current version with 1/16" holes can flow
as fast as a 5/16 hose can carry it out. Any comments on how well this might
work? TIA.
Mike Teed
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 10:29:00 +6
From: Bunning W Maj ACC/DOTE <bunningw at ns.langley.af.mil>
Subject: CaraPils and Dextrine in the Wort
I asked this question a week or so ago and didn't receive any responses.
I can't believe with the combined knowledge of the collective that I
can't get a response. If you take that as a challenge, it is!
Carapils malt or Dextrin malt is suppose to add unfermentables and
dextrin to the finished product. I can see how this works when added as
specialty grains to an extract-based beer since there's no enzymes to
break the dextrin down. However, when doing an all-grain mash, do the
enzymes break the dextrin down into simpler sugars (depending on mash
temperature, of course)? Or, do the dextrin chains remain intact (would
also apply to caramel and dark roasted malts), and if they do, why?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Bill Bunning
Member of the mile-high brewer's guild
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end
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 11:33:25 -0600
From: beernote at realbeer.com (Mike Urseth)
Subject: Carbonator
The problem with your use of the Carbonator is that it is not designed to
be removed and the bottle recapped. The Carbonator should be used as the
cap. Of course that does not deal with your cost concerns.
Bottles to pass out to friends should probably be done the "old fashioned"
bottle-conditioned way. Another alternative that I've heard (but not tried
myself) is to get some Schrader valves (tire valve stems) from your local
auto supply store. Drill a hole in the PET bottle cap (about 3/8" - measure
the hole in a wheel) - and insert the valve stem from the inside of the
cap. All you need to do is add a standard tire fitting on the end of a CO2
line and go from there. Cost should be less than a buck a piece. Not as
slick as the commercial unit, but the price is right.
Mike Urseth
Editor & Publisher
Midwest Beer Notes
339 Sixth Avenue
Clayton, WI 54004
715-948-2990 ph.
715-948-2981 fax
e-mail: beernote at realbeer.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 08:06:00 -0700
From: Dave Mercer <dmercer at path.org>
Subject: To rack or not to rack
Three weeks ago, planning ahead for the winter, I brewed a barleywine. The
wort went straight from my chiller onto the primary dregs of a fairly
high-gravity IPA that had spent two weeks in primary before I transferred
it, that morning, to a secondary fermenter.
So. The BW got lots of yeast (Wyeast 1098), though surely inadequate oxygen
(the only method I have besides shaking is the 'holes in a piece of racking
cane' trick that was discussed here a few months back.) It took off very
quickly: airlock activity within four hours, active fermentation with a
thick kreuzen within 12 hours. Then it seemed to slow down to nothing after
about 4 days but when I tested it, as I expected, it was still WAY underdone
(O.G. 1.095; after 1 week, 1.060) so I left it alone, meaning to give it at
least another week before tranferring and, maybe, pitching some fresh yeast.
Well, I got busy and was unable to transfer right at two weeks. Now, at
three weeks, it seems to have taken on new life. There's lots of airlock
activity, a creamy white layer of foam on top, the gravity continues to drop
(now at 1.048). I tasted some when I took last night's reading, and it
tasted fine (no off flavors, although still obviously too sweet). My question:
I'm nervous about it sitting on all that old yeast and trub but nervous
about moving it off (I've had batches stop cold when I've racked too early
and this one still has at least 20 points to drop). What should I do? What
should I do?
Dave M.
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 12:58:48 -0500
From: "Keith Royster" <keith.royster at ponyexpress.com>
Subject: U.S. Open competition results
The U.S. Open homebrewing competition was held this past weekend.
Thanks to everyone who entered. With almost 200 entries, you helped
make this year's U.S. Open very successful. In the interest of
saving bandwith you can view the results online at:
http://www.wp.com/ at your.service/cbm/brewmast.html
Keith Royster - Mooresville, NC, USA
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:27:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Milton Cook <PMCOOK at Gems.VCU.EDU>
Subject: First Beer Taste
OK, my first batch has been in the bottle for a little over two
weeks. It is a Williams Brewery Brown Ale. I Followed the recipe
that came with it exactly. It spent one week in the primary and I
let it sit another week in a secondary until I was ready to bottle.
Added the priming sugar, bottled then waited.
Here's the problem. Now after two weeks in the bottle I have
a alcoholic club soda that is colored brown. There is very little
taste in the beer. I guess it is not infected because there is no
raunchy taste or smell. Just a well carbonated alcoholic club
soda.
Has anyone in the collective experienced this problem and
better yet does anyone know the cause/remedy. I plan on starting
my next batch in a few days and do not want this to happen again.
Private or Public response.
TIA
Milton
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:55:07 -0400
From: Debisschop at aol.com
Subject: Re: Flavenoids
In a message dated 96-04-22 10:03:27 EDT, rmast at fnbc.com (Russell Mast)
writes:
>
>> I suspect that guy at UW owes us some
>> answers about why darker beers contain more than lighter beers. He should
>> also explain that statement about "particles called wort" being removed
from
>> lighter beers, if in fact those *were* his words.
>
>In fairness to Dr. Folts, I should pint out that the article I read was from
>an AP newswire, and he likely had little control over the content thereof.
Right, exactly, which is why I said *if* those were his words. If not, thats
some weird word scrambling by the AP.
>Still, I would like to know what gives beer flavenoids, and why some are
more
>equal than others.
Me too. That guys knows. Maybe we should send him a letter.
Mike
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:40:26 EST
From: "MK3052" <MK3052KF at stem.indstate.edu>
Subject: Recipes for wine
Greetings and salutations
I am an Indiana State student looking for good homemade wine
recipes (preferrably red). Anybody have an award winner?
Thanx,
Krystal Faller
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:55:41 -0500
From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com>
Subject: Ropy Kite.
> From: bob at carol.net (Robert Rogers)
> Subject: copyright
> the gentleman in question, if he is duping HBD to CD ROM is violating the
> natural copyrights of everyone who posts. we could technically launch a
> class action suit against him, but since none of us has any money involved
> (excluding any home brewing authors, of course) it might be hard to prove
> any sort of monetary damages.
> i would be interested in obtaining the CD, though, since i could erase all
> the old digests from my hard drive.
The solution is clear, then. We wait for this guy to publish the CD ROM, and
then run a class action lawsuit and demand a free copy of the CD for each of us.
Maybe someone should jump the gun and release it as a "co-op" type of effort.
Like, non-profit for us guys, just pay the cost of the CD plus a tiny bit to
cover the time of some dude to put it together. Maybe with the proceeds going
to some worthy cause. (Like free beer for Russ.)
-Russell Mast
Copyright 1996, Roger Roberts
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 14:21:16 -0500
From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com>
Subject: Dry Ice, Maple Syrup.
> From: cdp at chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard)
> Subject: Dry ice for air purge & automatic sparge control
> Dry ice in a sealed vessel makes a pretty powerful bomb. A tablespoon full
> in a capped 2 liter plastic pop bottle is said to be enough to blow the
> bottle up.
We used to use about 3 tbsp or so, and even on a hot day that would take
10-30 minutes. But, yeah, it really blows the heck out of the thing. And
those are really loud. The bottle is torn to little shreds, too. I would
think this could cause painful cuts if you're too close, so be careful.
I would estimate that in a regular strength (not designed to be refilled)
bottle, a couple grains would take a day or two to blow up. So, uh, don't
use this to carbonate your beer. (We got bored with dry ice and moved up to
HCl and Al foil. Those go off faster, but not as loud, because the plastic
is weakened by the heat. I think this makes some nasty fumes, though, so
again, don't try this yourself at home.)
> From: Mike Kidulich <mjkid at ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Priming with maple syrup
I recently read, I think in Cider Digest, someone say that the recommended
dosage for priming beer is 6 oz for 5 gallons. (I always use 3/4 cup, but
I always pack it the same, and so forth.) If this is correct, and my
calculations are accurate, this will raise the SG of your beer by about .003
or so. So, figure out how much maple to use on that basis. (Take an SG
reading of it, and work from there.) So, like, if it's 1.060, you'd want to
use approximately 1/20th of a gallon to prime five gallons. I'm not 100%
positive on the .003 number, though. Anyone more certain? (It's a decent
ballpark figure, though, I think.)
I asked about this on Cider Digest, but I'll ask here, too. Lactose is often
used as a sweetener for some beers (etc). Would someone who is "lactose
intolerant" have a bad reaction to the levels of lactose used to sweeten a
beer (or cider or mead)? Even if so, how much would one use?
-Russell Mast
Copyright 1996 Mark Hosler
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:38:09 -0500
From: Marty Tippin <martyt at sky.net>
Subject: Explain My Extract Yield Increase!
I've now done about 6 batches in my converted keg "pseudo-RIMS" system and
have gotten consistently higher extract yields from the grain than my old
system. I'm wondering if others with similar systems have seen the same
sort of increase or if I'm just getting lucky...
Background: The mash/lauter tun in my new system consists of a Sankey keg
with a Sabco folding SS false bottom (many of you have probably seen my web
page detailing the system; if not, the URL is below). I use a magnetic
drive pump to recirculate the wort during the entire mash, and a propane
burner under the kettle for temperature boosting and maintenance. The old
system was an easy-masher in a 34-qt. enamel-on-steel kettle, with an
electric stove and the oven for temperature boosting and maintenance.
My usual mash schedule for both systems is pretty much the 40-60-70c
schedule advocated by Dr. Fix (about 30 minutes at each step), with a
mash-out at 165F for about 10 minutes. Sparging is done with 168F, pH 5.7
water at a rate of about 5 or 6 minutes per gallon (it was a little slower
in the old system; more like 10 minutes per gallon).
Since starting to use the new system, my extract yields have gone from a
consistent 28 to 29 pts/lb/gal to 34+ pts/lb/gal! The first couple of
batches, this caught me totally off guard and I wound up with a much higher
OG than I intended...
I've been trying to figure out what it is about the new system that caused
this huge (18%+) increase in my efficiency - the most likely cause seems to
be the fact that I'm recirculating the wort during the entire mash - my
guess here is that I'm exposing the grain to more enzymes, more uniformly
than I used to (in the easymasher system, I stirred every 15 minutes or so)
Another thing it could be is the stainless steel false bottom vs. the easy
masher, but it seems like I've seen results that said there were negligible
differences between the two. The only other factors that come to mind are
possibly better temperature accuracy and control - the hysteresis of my old
system seemed to be a bit more than the new one; I can hit my target temps
now and stay within a degree or so for 45 minutes or longer if necessary
I'm interested in any ideas or comments as to whether the recirculation of
the mash really causes the higher efficiency, and what implications this
might have for others - perhaps it would be a good idea (if one were
interested in increased yield) to stir the grainbed constantly or otherwise
find some way of recirculating the wort.
Thanks!
-Marty
martyt at sky.net
http://www.sky.net/~martyt/2tier.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #24: Never underestimate the
martyt at sky.net | power of human stupidity.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Check out my 2-Tier Converted Keg Brewing System Design Plans
at http://www.sky.net/~martyt/2tier.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 14:03:23 PDT
From: Jeff Jones <jeffj at hpcmra.sj.hp.com>
Subject: Reverse Osmosis Filtered Water
While in the past I have boiled all my brewing water, I have found it
easier, on may occasions, to go to the supermarket and buy filtered
water for $0.25/gal (just bring in my carboy and fill'er up).
The dispenser says it is carbon filtered and UV sanitized, but I
just realized it also says it is reverse osmosis filtered.
Since I've recently begun playing with salt additions to match
brewing water to my beer style, I'm concered my use of R.O. water has
thrown off my water calculations.
Can someone with appropriate knowledge tell me what ions are removed
and/or added in the reverse osmosis filter process.
Also, just as a sanity check, my first impression of distilled water
is that it contains no (or almost no) ions. Is this correct?
- --
jeff jones, shade-tree chemist
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a test of the Internet Network News Posting Service...
This is only a test...
If this had been a real emergency, I'd have lit outta here
long ago, and you'd have never known until it was too late.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 22:21:51 +0100
From: Graham Cunningham <Graham at graham7.demon.co.uk>
Subject: mini-keg suppliers
Could someone please tell me where I can by mini-kegs here in the UK
- --
Graham Cunningham
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 18:50:18 -0500
From: mike at datasync.com (Mike White)
Subject: My clean out the closet recipie
Here's the final results of my latest batch. Actually it turned out very
good. Nice and dark but no heavy burnt taste. It probably could have used
a little more hops, or maybe fresher hops. The alcohol content is rather
low and the flavor is excellent, good head too. This beer takes on a
decidedly bitter taste when overchilled. Best consumed cool but not cold.
For about 2 gallons (21 twelve ounce bottles):
1/4 lb. Munton's Crushed Crystal 2-row Malt
1/4 lb. Roast Barley Crushed
1/2 oz. Willamette Hops Pellets (boiling)
1/2 oz. Northern Brewer Hops Pelletts (finishing)
2 lbs. Laaglander Dark Dried Malt Extract
1 packet Canadian Ale yeast this came with an Ironmaster Canadian Ale Kit
1 packet Irist Stout yeast this came with a Mountmellick Irish Stout Kit
1/2 to 3/4 cup of corn sugar
What I did: Placed Munton's & Roast Barley in grain bag and put in pot with
2 1/2 gallons of cold water. Brought water to a boil. Removed grain bag as
soon as water started boiling. Added Willamette Hops and Laaglander DME.
Boiled for 1 hour. Added Northern Brewer hops and boiled 5 more minutes.
Cooled and added to fermenter. Pitched Canadian Ale yeast, oops forgot to
rehydrate it first. Waited 3 days, no activity, yeast must have been too
old. Repitched with rehydrated Irish Stout yeast which showed good activity
within 8 hours. Fermented until done. Bottled with 1/2 cup corn sugar. Aged
2 weeks.
O.G. - 1.034
F.G. - 1.019
\\\|///
\\ - - //
( at at )
\ (_) /
\ o /
+----------------------oOOo-----oOOo----------------+
| Mike White mike at datasync.com |
| Thought for the day: |
| Stick \'stik\ n. 1: A boomerang that doesn't work |
+---------------------+--------Oooo-----------------+
oooO ( )
( ) ) /
\ ( (_/
\_)
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 23:47:33 -0400
From: TBrouns at aol.com
Subject: Long slow fermentation
I haven't seen this addressed before, although I've seen variants in the
books...
I started a wheat beer--dunkelweizen, actually, using an Irek's 6.6# can and
another # of DME--on 29 March, using a 10g packet of GlenBrew "secret"
brewer's yeast. Never tried this type before but it's a typical dried yeast.
Within 3 hours, fermentation was already underway! Well, on 1 or 2 April, I
transferred it to a secondary, and I had to leave for a few weeks but I was
sure I'd have to bottle as soon as I got back as most beers I have brewed
have taken no more than 12 days total.
On the 18th of April I returned from my trip and the beer was still kicking!
I would say poor aeration or inferior yeast; however, I have to say the
fermentation, though long, has been far from sluggish. It was very active in
the beginning, and now it is pretty slow but steady, and here we are on the
22nd of April.
The SG is at about 1.008 now, and I know that's usually sufficient to bottle,
but I'm afraid to bottle when it's still bubbling this steadily (about once a
minute, realizing that all airlocks are probably different) for fear of a
mess in about a week when the pressure has built up.
Has anyone else had this experience with this yeast or with a wheat? Any
Ideas? TIA
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 23:57:48 EDT
From: "Stephen Palmer" <uscgsynd at ibmmail.com>
Subject: Kegs - Ball vs. Pin Lock
I know this was beaten to death a while back, but
I don't have access to the archives, and am about
to invest in a kegging system. The store I am going
to buy from has both, with only a $1 price differance.
Which should I get? Ball Lock, or Pin Lock?
Does someone have a pro/con type summary of
what was discussed? E-Mail is fine.
Thanks in advance,
Stephen L. Palmer
uscgsynd at ibmmail.com - Columbia Gulf, Houston TX
elrond at helix.xiii.com - Home
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