HOMEBREW Digest #2024 Tue 30 April 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Digest is up for sale (Digest Janitor)
  origin of "Blaufraenkisch" (Andreas Bauer)
  Fruitiness of Wyeast #1968 (Mark Peacock)
  The Grain Plunge (Wayne McCorkle)
  Homebrew shop for sale (Rick Willoughby)
  Stoudts'Micro Fest Tix (Bob Ledden)
  filtering and moving kegs (John Taylor)
  Dry Ice (Narvaez Ronald)
  O-ring search (Eric Peters)
  RE:  Ready-To-Pitch Yeasts?  I don't think so (Russ Brodeur)
  RIMS and oversparge (Chuck Volle)
  Pre-1909 history of American brewing (Mark Stevens)
  Alcoholic beverages & nursing (Spencer W Thomas)
  A really big beer: anything special to think about? (Woody Weaver)
  Nat'l HB Day/autolysis/Carapils(r)/volcano protection (Algis R Korzonas)
  Wyeast #1275 and No Alcohol HomeBrew (Dean Larson)
  I have a few questions (James Todd Hoopes)
  Latest Adventure! (Jim Nasiatka-Wylde)
  Chicago Area Beer Tasting (Jim Nasiatka-Wylde)
  spelt (Dutch)

NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS hpfcmgw! Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rob Gardner (Digest Janitor) Subject: Digest is up for sale I am looking for a stable, responsible party to take over ownership of the Homebrew Digest as soon as possible. I will provide all necessary assistance with the transition. If interested please email me immediately: rdg at fc.hp.com. Rob Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:52:05 -0700 From: Andreas Bauer <a.bauer at htlwrn.ac.at> Subject: origin of "Blaufraenkisch" I want to know where the name "Blaufraenkisch" comes from. It is also known under the name "Lemberger" in Germany and "Kekfrankos" in Hungary. ==================================================================== Andreas Bauer a.bauer at htlwrn.ac.at Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 06:39:06 -0400 From: Mark Peacock <mpeacock at oeonline.com> Subject: Fruitiness of Wyeast #1968 > As I poured my first glass this afternoon (drum roll), I carefully > examined the color (clear and appropriately deep amber), the aroma > (Goldings loud and clear - no diacetyl as I was expecting), and the > taste (um...what's this?...something I've never tasted in my ales..I > guess it's..ah.. FRUITY...yes VERY FRUITY!). Sharon - I always use #1968 for my pale ales/English bitters and the fruity aroma and taste is the characteristic that distinguishes #1968 from other yeasts. About 2 years ago, I did a parallel brew of #1968 and Wyeast's British Ale yeast in a pale ale recipe. In a blind tasting, the fruity aroma and taste was an easy clue to which glass was the #1968. No one failed to pick it out, and everyone preferred the #1968 to the British Ale beer. Regards, Mark Peacock Birmingham, Michigan mpeacock at oeonline.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 07:40:24 -0600 From: wmccorkl at jefferson.NMSU.Edu (Wayne McCorkle) Subject: The Grain Plunge I decided some time ago to take the all grain plunge. The past two or three months have been spent reading, contemplating and collecting. I am going to use the zappap lauter tun to begin with. I have two suitable five gallon food grade buckets. However, each has labels on the outside. I have become con- cerned that the paper and/or glue could produce some ill effects on the beer. I tried to soak one bucket in a bleach water solution for a week, but that did not seem to help. I was then going to use a fine grit sand paper and just sand the glue off. But I got to thinking that might create a home for unwanted bacteria. So, am I just worrying too much, should I leave the labels? If not, any suggestions for getting them off? Thanks in advance. R. Wayne McCorkle Mechanical Engineering Department New Mexico State University Voice: 505-646-5733 Fax: 505-646-6111 rmccorkl at nmsu.edu http://essex.nmsu.edu/~rmccorkl/ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 09:37:44 -0400 From: Rick Willoughby <rickw1 at haven.ios.com> Subject: Homebrew shop for sale Homebrew shop for sale. Need owner operator for store in Colorado. Expanding and want to open another store. Franchise type operation. Private Email only please. Rick rickw1 at haven.ios.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 09:46:35 -0400 From: bobl at chesco.com (Bob Ledden) Subject: Stoudts'Micro Fest Tix I have 3 tickets for Stoudts'Micro Brew Fest Sat. June 8th 7-11 pm that I can't use. Anyone interested in them please E-mail me. Bob Ledden bobl at chesco.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 14:30:11 GMT From: jltaylor at ix.netcom.com (John Taylor) Subject: filtering and moving kegs After moving, my mostly empty keg of Honey Red was stirred-up. So far (4 days) the beer has not cleared up and has a really funky taste. My friends and I finished as much of the beer before moving as we possible could. Does anyone have a way to filter the sediment out of the beer when kegging, or a way to move a keg and not stir it up too bad. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 09:14:00 PDT From: Narvaez Ronald <RNarvaez at phs.org> Subject: Dry Ice I have only been on the digest for a couple of day and have seen part of a tread about using dry ice. I think the dry ice was being used to carbonate the beer. I was wondering if anybody has tried using dry ice to cool down their wort. I brew my beer in fifteen gallon batches and it is very hard to get this wort to cool down quickly. I have been letting it just cool outside but now that summer is coming I will not be able to get it cool as quick. If using dry ice to cool down wort has been done please let me know the results. Ron Narvaez Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 12:09:24 EDT From: Eric Peters <epeters at harris.com> Subject: O-ring search I have some ten gallon soda syrup kegs (ball-lock) and I am having trouble finding replacement o-rings for the lids. Can any of you offer any advice on good hunting grounds for o-rings? These kegs have a two piece lid with a wing nut that when tightened will bring the bottom plate closer to the top plate which forces the o-ring between the two plates outward against the sides of the keg mouth. Are any of you using these kegs? The o-rings are a smaller diameter than what is used for the typical 5 gallon keg, and appear to be fatter and spongier. McMaster-Carr has a pretty good selection of o-rings, but I'm not sure what material would be best (buna-n, viton, etc.) and I don't need a pack of 100, just 12. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance, Eric Peters Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 12:17:49 -0400 From: r-brodeur at ds.mc.ti.com (Russ Brodeur) Subject: RE: Ready-To-Pitch Yeasts? I don't think so >Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 07:54:57 -0500 >From: pedwards at iquest.net (P. Edwards) >Subject: Ready-to-Pitch Yeasts? I don't think so > >Did anybody see the new product announcement in the latest zymurgy from >a company called Saccharomyces Supply Co? They've got liquid yeast that >they claim don't need a starter culture. The announcement says that the each >vial of yeast (sufficient for 5 gallons) contains 5 billion viable yeast cells. Is this the same as RTP yeast?? <<snip>> >So, if you used the RTP culture w/o a starter, you'd be under pitching by >anywhere from about 7 to 60 times. I have used RTP yeasts twice now (RTP Czech pils and altbier strains). IMHO, regardless of the *number* of viable cells present in the centrifuged slurry, they yeast is not necessarily "ready-to-pitch". I have noted on both occasions lag times of 2+ days at room temp in 1/2 gal starters. So, I second the opinion that a starter is required, but for different reasons. TTFN --<- at Russ Brodeur (r-brodeur at ds.mc.ti.com) Franklin, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 13:07:35 -0400 From: cvolle at alpha.che.uc.edu (Chuck Volle) Subject: RIMS and oversparge The idea of recycling the infusion mash seems like a terrific 'hands off' way of mashing, in theory. In practice, do you have to be concerned about oversparging at any time? With mashout temps would you expect to see an increase in tannins or other nasties that are attributed to oversparging? As a side discussion, there is a new book from CAMRA by Wheeler and Protz, titled, _Brew Classic European Beers at Home. ISBN 1-85249-117-5. In it they discuss the redundancy of classic decoction mashing since the modern equivalent is the temperature-stepped infusion mash. This would be extremely easy with a RIMS system. How do you RIMS brewers feel about this? Have we come away from the necessity for a decoct to increase maltiness in your beers? Inquiring minds want to know? Thanks! Chuck Volle cvolle at alpha.che.uc.edu Owner/Brewer/Imagineer/Artitect Creative Juices Brewery Cincinnati, OH Member of The Bloatarian Brewing League, Cincinnati, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 14:30:33 EDT From: Mark Stevens <stevens at stsci.edu> Subject: Pre-1909 history of American brewing If any of you folks are interested in brewing history, I've put up on the Brewery server the complete text of a book titled "American Beer: Glimpses of Its History and Description of Its Manufacture" by G. Thomann, U.S. Brewers Association. This was written in 1909 and has quite a bit of info on the colonial era, with some production stats etc. URL: http://alpha.rollanet.org/library/ambeer/AB_00.html Cheers! - ---Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:58:38 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Alcoholic beverages & nursing A pediatrician friend pointed out that a nursing baby will be getting alcohol at the blood-alcohol concentration. That is, unless the mother is a real lush, less than 0.1 percent. Not really a cause for concern. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 14:29 PDT From: Woody Weaver <woody at altair.stmarys-ca.edu> Subject: A really big beer: anything special to think about? Greetings all, This weekend I brewed a really dense beer (OG 1.130) with the idea of making a barleywine. I bittered with an ounce and a half of Chinook (13.5AA) and added about a half ounce of Cascade to the primary after cooling. I made about a 250 ml starter with OG 1.060 with a Belgian Abbey Wyeast, pitched at krausen. My plan is to let it sit in the primary about two weeks, rack to the secondary and add champagne yeast for about another two weeks before bottling. Any comments on the plan? I'm assuming that it will remain fairly sweet even with the champagne yeast, which is why I bittered heavily. Will I get any carbonation in the bottle? I don't have a CO2 cylinder, so force carbonation isn't in the works. Anything else I should think about? I've got plastic fermenters -- is autolysis or oxygenation going to be a problem with a four week fermentation? - --woody Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 14:47:47 CDT From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) Subject: Nat'l HB Day/autolysis/Carapils(r)/volcano protection Rick writes: >Just curious what other clubs are doing for National Homebrewers Day >(May 4th!...) Oddly, on National Homebrew Day, I'm going to be discouraging people from brewing. Yes, that's right. I've spoken to the AHA a half dozen times about moving HB day to the Fall, but my pleas have fallen on deaf ears. May is the ***END*** of the brewing season and ***NOT*** the time to be introducing non-brewers to the hobby! I own a HB supply store and usually get one or two calls about starting to homebrew *on* National HB Day, but usually it takes most people a week or five to get off their duffs and I end up fielding dozens of calls in June and July. I have to tell these people that summer is not the time to brew and do call me in the fall. A fraction of them call back. The AHA would make life so much easier if they were to move Nat'l HB Day to the fall so we could wholeheartedly encourage new brewers to join our ranks when the chance of success is significantly higher. Perhaps if I wasn't the only one complaining about this, they would listen? *** Gregg asks about autoylsis. I, personally, have noted autolysis in very few of my beers. I have a bad habit of brewing a beer, siphoning off 2 liters to force-carbonate for a competition and then leaving the rest of the beer in the primary for three months. I think perhaps the crummy, weak, unrefrigerated dry yeasts that Papazian and Miller first started brewing with were indeed susceptible to autolysis. I believe that along with all other aspects of yeast, the likelyhood of autolysis is strain-dependent. Furthermore, yeast that has gotten plenty of oxygen and nutrients and has not been tortured with high heat is much less prone to it. Mind you that these are simply my guesses as to why I have had very few beers (despite long times in the primary and virutally all my beers being bottle conditioned) show the rubbery/sulfury smells of autolysis. Finally, it is pronounced aw-TALL-a-sis. *** Jim writes: >German maltsters also sell >a similar product, often called caraPils. I wonder if the Briess trademark >is only valid in the US? Briess used to put a trademark on "Carapils(r)" but has not in their most recent literature. Carapils(r) is a registered trademark of Mich. Weyermann Malzfabrik, yes, even in the US. As for use and similarity to Crystal malts, I've used Briess Dextrine just like a typical Crystal/Caramel malt and yes indeed it adds little sweetness (taste malto-dextrin -- not very sweet either), some body and some head retention. I've only used it a couple of times, in not very large amounts (5 to 7% or so) and have not noticed it to be extremely different from other crystal malts other than *not* having that typical caramelly flavour. Perhaps in larger quanitities its character is more noticeable and may not be desirable to all brewers. *** Michael writes: >As far as the airlock clogging, I always put my carboy inside of a couple of >big black plastic bags. The bags block the light and helps prevent a blown off >airlock/blow off tube from doing damage to the inside of the closet, carpet, >etc. Obviously your stopper was not forced very strongly into the carboy... plastic bags are nothing to the force of an ejected blowoff hose when the pressure builds up. I know from personal experience. The plastic bags were torn up and found in the next room, and the stain on the ceiling is a testament to the volcanic nature of clogged blowoff tubes (the carboy was on the floor, the top of it was 6 1/2 feet below the bottom of the ceiling). Now, I use only 1 1/4" OD plastic hoses for blowoff (no need for a stopper either). Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at pubs.att.com Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:44:56 -0700 From: Dean Larson <larson at chaos.cps.gonzaga.edu> Subject: Wyeast #1275 and No Alcohol HomeBrew I've never brewed with Wyeast #1275, but I tried their new American Ale II strain (#1272) a few months ago. When I purchased this, my supplier was kind enough to supply me with a copy of Wyeast's profile sheet for their new strains. Included was: 1275 THAMES VALLEY ALE YEAST: Produces classic British bitters, rich, complex flavor profile, clean, light malt character, low fruitiness, low esters, well balanced, medium flocculation, apparent attenuation 72-76%. If anyone is interested in the profiles of the other new strains, let me know. The only one I've actually brewed with is #1272 (4 or 5 batches). ******************** Regarding no alcohol homebrew: There is an article by John Nalsezkiewicz in the October, 1995 (Vol. 1 No. 4) issue of Brew Your Own magazine on this very topic. A quick version of the technique explained in the article follows: Brew a normal batch, but use a recipe high in dextrin content to add body (no sugar if you brew with extracts). Ferment out fully as usual. Get as much as the yeast out as possible either through filtration or by racking off the yeast after a long, cool secondary. Take the portion of the batch you want to make no (or low) alcohol and heat it to the boiling point of ethyl alcohol (173.3F). The article suggests heating in an oven (more even heat than a stove top) at 180F for about 30 minutes. This should evaporate the alcohol leaving a buzzless brew. The heating process will also drive off most hop flavors and aromas. Cool the beer (with the usual attention to sanitation associated with cooling wort), then bottle or keg. The resulting brew can be forced carbonated or bottle conditioned. The heating process will have killed all remaining yeast, so if bottle conditioned, the brew needs to primed with the appropriate amount of sugar as well as some fresh yeast. I've never tried this technique. Brewing is a labor of love and performing more labor in order to remove some of my favorite components of beer strikes me as a bad idea. Dean Larson larson at cps.gonzaga.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 08:49:07 -0500 From: Hoopes at bscr.uga.edu (James Todd Hoopes) Subject: I have a few questions I've been all grain brewing for about two years. I have made many fine beers and a few that missed the mark, but I have never been satisfied when I try to brew a "hoppy" strong ale. by this I mean very obvious hop flavor and aroma in a full bodied ale or any beer for that mater. I have tried large amounts 3 oz of finishing hopes, dry hopping, and that hop tea thing. However, the damn micro do it better. Is there any advice for me out there. Next subject. I recently purchased a brewing program. It will calculate hop utilization based on any max. % you deem reasonable and boil time, but it will only scale it through one hour. I was under the impression that up to three hours and by all means two of boil time would increase the percentage utilization with a max. of 25-35% depending on who you talked to and which type you used IE. pellet plug or leaf. Am I wrong? I have a couple of tables and no one cuts it off at 1 hour. ********************************************************************* Do unto others.. for given a reversal of situation they would surely do it unto you. J. Todd Hoopes <Hoopes at bscr.uga.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 21:58:23 -0500 From: Jim Nasiatka-Wylde <Jwylde at interaccess.com> Subject: Latest Adventure! OK folks! Here's the results of the latest batch of brew: PS - It seems we've solved our CO2/foaming problem - it was mostly due to the pressure drop in the system. I butchered a ball lock to get 1/4" Swagelocks to fit on it, and put a 1/4" st stl ball valve at the outlet of the keg, and then ran about 3' of tubing to use for filing bottles. Opening the valve fully got good flow rates at 1-2psi, and very little excess foam. Thanks to all who helped! Schizophrenia Espresso Porter (Makes 5 gal.) 3.3# M&F Amber Malt extract 3.3# John Bull Dark Malt Extract 1# Black Patent Malt 1/4# Crystal Malt 1.5 oz Northern Brewers Hop Pellets - main boil 1 oz Tettnanger Hop Pellets - finish 1/2# Espresso - coarsely ground proceedure: steep grains while bringing water to a boil (50 minutes) add extract return to boil add hops and boil for 45 min. reduce heat and add Espresso - steep for 10 minutes return to boil and add finishing hops for 5 minutes sparge, chill, and pitch Fermentation time: 4 weeks Sp. Gr. - initial: 1.060 final: 1.025 Notes on the beast: The whole thing turned out pretty good - the beer itself seems to be about the best we've done so far. It has a dark, bitter, funky flavor from the coffee and the black patent malt. Color is very black almost chunky, and has good thick head - kinda like Guiness in color and consistancy. All the money in the world is no match for hard work and ingenuity... ____ \ / Nothing is so strong as Gentleness; JWylde at interaccess.com \/ nothing so gentle as real strength Nasiatka at anl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 22:01:56 -0500 From: Jim Nasiatka-Wylde <Jwylde at interaccess.com> Subject: Chicago Area Beer Tasting Hey y'all! My Brew-Partner Robyn asked me to post this up here - She's putting together a beer tasting to help raise money for the Chicago-Minneapolis AIDS ride: Where: LaPiazza 3845 North Broadway (N.E. corner of Broadway and Sheridan) Big Chicago 312.868.0998 When: May 17, 1996 7pm - 2am Cost: $10 Featuring 21 beers from all around the place. It's set up kind of like Chicago's Microbrew Octoberfest was - admission gets you 7 tickets for for sampling your choice of the different beers available. I don't kow what they are yet, but I'll pass it on to all interested folks as soon as I do. One thing that probably will be there is one of *our* brews (Homo Heights Brewery) Proceeds go to sponsor two riders who are participating in the Chicago to Minneapolis AIDS ride, and I *think* it's tax deductable, but I ain't sure. All the money in the world is no match for hard work and ingenuity... ____ \ / Nothing is so strong as Gentleness; JWylde at interaccess.com \/ nothing so gentle as real strength Nasiatka at anl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 23:28:37 -0400 From: leake.5 at osu.edu (Dutch) Subject: spelt I visited a friend in Chicago recently who dose not drink ... often. I tried to get her to try some of my home brew but she wasn't interested. So as usual her boyfriend, my old brewing partner, an I drank a few to many we got loud and she got mad. I tried to convince her if she just had a beer or two she would relax and join in the comradery. So anyway she said if I brew a spelt beer she'll try some. I don't think I'll find any malted spelt so how should I go about mashing with spelt. I have done one all grain batch and hope to do another befor I see her again. Should I do a decotion mash. If I do a decoction should i boil the spelt before the mash. I am shure I need to crush the grain. Should I do a step mash with a protien rest. (I am shure I will need a protien rest no mater which mash I do) BTW spelt is a primitive wheat species so info on unmalted wheat would hold for spelt ... I think. A recipe I was considering is as follows 6 lb pale (most likly kloges) 2 lb spelt 1 lb malted rye (for fun) 12 hbu of saaz and hallertauer maybe perle, I have never used them before Any help would be much appreciated. Private E-mail is great. If there is alot of spelt intrest I will consoidate and post. Walter leake.5 at osu.edu Return to table of contents