HOMEBREW Digest #207 Sat 22 July 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Aging in wood (Bruce Buck)
  Ooops! (Michael Bergman)
  Homebrew Digest #206 (July 21, 1989) (ferguson ct 71078)
  Re: cider (dw)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Jul 89 09:46:35 PDT From: bbuck at East.Sun.COM (Bruce Buck) Subject: Aging in wood Is it possible to use wooden kegs, such as oak, to age the beer after secondary fermentation is complete? Has anyone tried it? Is it worth the effort? Do lagers work better than ales or is there no difference? If so, where can one get, say, 5 gallon oak casks that are suitable? -Bruce Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 89 10:11:30 edt From: bergman at m2c.org (Michael Bergman) Subject: Ooops! Damn. Never, ever hit "r" without checking the "To:" and the "CC:" fields afterwards...sorry about the junk. To avoid this being more non-brewing junk, here's a couple of old Mead recipes that I promised to post a long time ago: MR CORSELLISES ANTWERP MEATH: To make good Meath, good white and thick Marsilian or Provence-honey is best; and of that, to four Holland Pints (the Holland Pint is very little bigger than the English Wine-pint)of Water, you must put two pounds of Honey; The Honey must be stirred in Water, till it be all melted; If it be stirred about in warm water, it will melt so much the sooner. When all is dissolved, it must be so strong that an Egge may swim in it with the end upwards. And if it be too sweet or too strong, because there is too much Honey; then you must put more water to it; yet so, that, as above, an Hens Egge may swim with the point upwards: And then that newly added water must be likewise well stirred about, so that it may be mingled all alike. If the Eggs sink (which is a token that there is not honey enough) then you must put more Honey to it, and stir about, till it be all dissolved, and the Eggs swim, as abovesaid. This being done, it must be hanged over the fire, and as it beginneth to seeth, the scum, that doth arise upon it, both before and after, must be clean skimmed off. When it is first set upon the fire, you must measure it first with a stick, how deep the Kettel is, or how much Liquor there be in it; and then it must boil so long, till one third part of it be boiled away. When it is thus boiled, it must be poured out into a Cooler, or open vessel, before it be tunned in the Barrel; but the Bung-hole must be left open, that it may have vent. A vessel, which hath served for Sack is best. Since this recipe has no fermentation instructions attached to it, I thought I'd add those from a couple of previous recipes. Excerpt from Metheglin as it is made at Liege, communicated by Mr. Masillon: ...There are some that put either Yeast of Beer, or Leaven of Bread into it, to make it work. But this is not necessary at all; and much less to set it into the Sun. Mr. Masillon does neither the one nor the other. Afterwards for to Tun it, you must let it grow Luke-warm. for to advance it. And if you do intend to keep your Meathe a long time, you may put into it some hopps on this fashion. Take to every Barrel of Meathe a Pound of Hops without leaves, that is, of Ordinary Hops used for Beer, but well cleansed, taking only the Flowers, without the Green-leaves and stalks. Boil this pound of Hops in a Pot and a half of fair water, till it come to one Pot, and tis quantity is sufficient for a Barrel of Meathe. A Barrel at Liege holdeth ninety Pots, and a Pot is as much as a Wine-quart in England. (I have since been informed from Liege, that a Pot of that Countrey holdeth 48 Ounces of Apothecary's measure; which I judge to be a Pottle according to London measure, or two Wine-quarts.) When you Tun your Meath, you must not fill your Barrel by half a foot, that so it may have room to work. Then let it stand six weeks slightly stopped; which being expired, if the Meath do not work, stop it up very close. Yet must you not fill up the Barrel to the very brim. After six Months you draw off the clear into another Barrel, or strong Bottles, leaving the dregs, and filling up your new Barrel, or Bottels, and stopping it or them very close. The Meath that is made this way, (Viz. In the Spring, in the Month of April or May,which is the proper time for making of it,) will keep many a year. Finally one more, from the immediately preceeding recipe:White Metheglin of My Lady Hungerford; which is exceedingly praised. ...Then pour it into a wooden vessel, and let it stand till it be cold. Then pour the clear through a Sieve of hair, ceasing pouring when you come to the foul thick settling. Tun the clear into your vessel (without Barm) and stop it up close, with the Spices in it, till you perceive by the hissing that it begins to work. Then give it some little vent, else the Barrel would break. When it is at the end of the working, stop it up close. She useth to maske it as the end of Summer, when she takes up her Honey, and begins to drink it at Lent. But it will be better if you defer pierceing it till next Winter. When part of the Barrel is drunk, she bottleth the rest, which makes it quicker and better. --mike bergman (w) 75 North Drive, Westborough, MA 01581, USA +1 (508) 870-0312 UUCP: harvard!m2c!bergman INTERNET: bergman at m2c.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 89 10:32:20 EDT From: ferguson%X102C at HARRIS-ATD.COM (ferguson ct 71078) Subject: Homebrew Digest #206 (July 21, 1989) Florian Bell, Boonesborough, Oregon writes: >Hey, now that we are on the subject, can't soft drink glass bottles >withstand the pressure of beer? How could one get a bottle any thicker >than a Pepsi bottle? I took a tour of the Capital brewery in Madison, Wisconsin several years ago. It is probably typical of the microbreweries in the region. They kegged their beer themselves but bottling was performed under contract by a soda-pop bottler. The beer had to be delivered flat as the contractor's equipment could not handle carbonated beer. Also, the amount of carbonation in the beer was determined by the abilities of the contractor's apparatus. I got the impression the contractor tended to overcarbonate since cola required it. The conclusion I draw is that the soda bottles are as strong as beer bottles since this bottler was bottling both and was using about as much CO2 for beer as he did for cola. Chuck Ferguson Harris Government Information Systems Division (407) 984-6010 MS: W1/7732 PO Box 98000 Melbourne, FL 32902 Internet: ferguson%cobra at trantor.harris-atd.com Usenet: uunet!x102a!x102c!ferguson Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Jul 89 11:30:39 EDT (Friday) From: dw <Wegeng.Henr at Xerox.COM> Subject: Re: cider >The simplest thing you can do is pasteurize the cider (170 F for 10 minutes), >add sugar (cane) to get OG ~ 1.080 (it will probably start around 1.045-50, so >roughly a 5 lb bag per 5 gallon batch). Use champaigne yeast and proceed just >as if it was beer. I reccoment a 2 stage ferment. This will give a dry sparkling >cider. semi-dry to semi-sweet is trickier, especially with commercially grown >apples. I've never tried to make sparkling cider, though I have made a still cyser (similar technique to the above, except subsitute honey for cane sugar and bottle when clear several month later). The statement "...and proceed just as if it was beer" isn't quite clear to me, however. If two stage fermentation is used, how clear will the resulting beverage be? My experience with wine and cyser is that you need to rack several times before you'll get a nice, clear beverage. I'd also like some more info about when to bottle the result (when fermentation is finished? or when the cider is clear?) and how much priming sugar to use (3/4 C per five gallons?). Thanks, /Don Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #207, 07/22/89
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