Homebrew Digest Tuesday, 18 June 1996 Number 2074

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   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  Puffy Extract Cans (Jeremy Yospin)
  [none] (bhanson-mtc at rica.net (Ben Hanson))
  Re: Filters (Nate Apkon)
  Houston, we have a problem... (matthew.t.apple.1 at nd.edu (Matt Apple))
  Al K's Blowoff article in BT (asteinm at nyc.pipeline.com (Art Steinmetz))
  RE: Flavorful low-gravity beer (George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro))
  Errors-To: homebrew-error at aob.org ("Matthew A McKinstry")
  Measures (Spencer W Thomas)
  We Tax everything, conical fermentator . (Richard Sharp)
  Counterflow (non)chillers (Regan Pallandi)
  High-Temp 5/8" Hose (Kallen Jenne)
  moonshine (Greg Tompkins)
  Bavarian Summer drinks (paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli))
  Gott Cooler Setup ("DAVID T. PETERS                GERMANY(UTC +02:00)")
  First all grain attempt (Mike Kidulich)
  stuck ferm., Flavor hops ("Bryan L. Gros")
  world beer cup ("Bryan L. Gros")
  1996 World Beer Cup Winners (shawn at aob.org (Shawn Steele))
  mills/grassy/Brewer's Companion/imported yeast/iodophor/HSA/Guinness/winning (korz at pubs.ih.att.com)
  Hop Extract ("David R. Burley")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeremy Yospin <yospin at UMDNJ.EDU> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 12:53:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Puffy Extract Cans >On Wed, 12 Jun 1996, Homebrew Digest REQUEST Address Only wrote: >> The latest zymurgy says that they'll last 2-4 years, and optimally you >> want to use them within 8 months, and i think I've had them around 8 >> months (no more than a year), and they have been stored in a room temp, >> mostly darkened room. I expect the normal darkening associate with age, >> but not the cans expanding 'puffing out', or deforming. Your sugestions, >> comments, help? Are they safe to use anyway? > >It sounds like botulin bacteria are in it to me. But I might be wrong. >Don't use the stuff; I don't believe that boiling will break down the >toxin. Actually, boiling does destroy botulism toxin (not necessarily the spores). However, DON'T USE PUFFY CANS! Even if you destroyed the toxin, surviving spores could make germinate in the anerobic environment of the beer (presumably, I don't know how sensitive C. botulinum is to alcohol). I'd complain to the company. Contamination with botulinum is not a minor problem -- the toxin is an EXTREMELY potent neurotoxin. Jeremy Return to table of contents
From: bhanson-mtc at rica.net (Ben Hanson) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 06:47:54 -0500 Subject: [none] Greetings, A friend of mine recently sent me one of the more interesting brewing gadgets I have seen for quite a while. It is a mini-chiller for taking gravity readings of wort at a variety of temps. Instead of my usual process of putting the hydrometer tube in the freezer for 20 minutes to cool boiling wort to 60 degrees, you just run this contraption under tap water for about a minute, and the copper center dissipates heat from the sample inside. It's pretty neat, a time saver, and it also could be used to bring lagering samples back up to 60 degrees. My friend has a web page advertising this gizmo for the masses at: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/JanetRuhl/chiller.htm enjoy! Ben ************************************************************************ bhanson-mtc at rica.net Massanutten Technical Center 325 Pleasant Valley Road Harrisonburg VA 22801 (540) 434-5961 Providing Vocational, Technical, and Academic Education for life ************************************************************************ Return to table of contents
From: Nate Apkon <nmapkon at sprynet.com> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 04:49:23 -0700 Subject: Re: Filters Tony: Activated carbon filter sounds like the way to go. However, what eles does it remove from the water? How about ions such as Ca, Mg, SO4, Na, Cl, etc.? Since I adjust water profile it sounds like the nly solution might be to install a filter and then have my water tested. Nate A. Return to table of contents
From: matthew.t.apple.1 at nd.edu (Matt Apple) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 13:14:21 -0500 Subject: Houston, we have a problem... Help! I made a 5-gal batch for my b-day, trying to make a Newcastle-ish kind of brown ale. 6.6 lbs. M&F light extract 1/4 lb black patent malt 1/2 lb crystal malt 1.5 oz Fuggles (boiling - 30 min.) Wyeast London Ale (forgot the #, 1968 or something) I let it stay in the primary for one week and in the secondary for about 4 weeks, then put some in a 5L keg and the rest in bottles. The FG was about 1.033, but I forgot to take an OG. The problem: it tastes like iced tea! What happened? Did I use too much crystal malt? or not enough extract? or the wrong kind of extract? Argh! My b-day is ruined! Matt A. matthew.t.apple.1 at nd.edu http://www.nd.edu/~mapple Return to table of contents
From: asteinm at nyc.pipeline.com (Art Steinmetz) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 18:23:10 GMT Subject: Al K's Blowoff article in BT The latest Brewing Techniques has an article by Al Korzonas which describes his empircal tests of to blow off, or not to blow off the krausen of primary fermentation with ales. The bottom line was expect 10%-15% loss of hop bittering when you blow off but no other material differences were detectable by a taste panel or by analysis. Very good work, IMHO. I love it when the light of the scientific method is shed on conventional wisdom. The big question for me is: Why did this appear in BT? At the end of the article Al credits "Zymurgy" for funding the research! Return to table of contents
From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:07:02 -0700 Subject: RE: Flavorful low-gravity beer In HBD 2072 Martin Wilde suggests making a high gravity beer and diluting it to the desired low gravity after the boil in order to achieve a relatively flavorful low gravity beer. I think that the correct process is to dilute the wort after fermentation, not before. The reason this works is that yeast tend to produce more fruity flavors in a high-gravity environment, thus you will create a beer with some interesting character. Even though you are diluting it after fermentation, some of that character will come through. By fermenting a wort with a SG of >1.070 you should be able to get plenty of character from the yeast. Remember to boil and cool your diluting water to sterilize and deoxygenate it. Avoid the introduction of air when diluting by siphoning carefully and/or purging the headspace over the liquid with CO2. Also, your hop utilization won't be as efficient in the high-gravity boil, so you may have to adjust your hop rates a bit. George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
From: "Matthew A McKinstry" <MMcKinstry at paraengr.com> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 15:02:53 Subject: Errors-To: homebrew-error at aob.org Thanks to all for the abundance of knowledge and laughs from HBD. Now for the questions... I have been brewing extract plus specialty grain for about 1.5 years. All grain brewing interests me but I never wanted to spend the money (no, it had NOTHING to do with the spouse). Then, after finding a hardware store closing down with 1/2 off everything, purchasing all connections and tubing (3/8" X 25') for a chiller for $20, and putting it together in about 30 min., I figured I was pretty close to having the equipment for all grain brewing. Then I saw a 5 gallon Gott I could afford and thought I could make a copper tubing manifold pretty cheap and be all set. I do like the RIMS concept and expect my system to eventually move in that direction so the Gott would stay with me. However, I have some concerns: 1. Should I hold out for a 10 gallon cooler? What kind of grain capacity can I expect with the 5? (I brew Pale Ales, Browns, Porters, and Wheats almost exclusively. I'm not much into BIG beers.) 2. How difficult would it be to do multi-step mashes in the 5 gallon? I probably will do mostly single step but I want the option to do more. Is it as simple as starting with a thick mash and adding more hot water or drawing off some liquid and heating? 3. For the first temperature rest do you overshoot by a little to account for the energy absorbed by the cooler? If so, by how much? 4. How much can I expect to pay for the 10 gallon (ball park figure, I realize there are a lot of variables here)? The store I saw the 5 gallon in didn't have 10 gallon coolers. Anything else you experienced Gott users can add will be appreciated. Private e-mail OK. Thanks a bunch. Matt Mckinstry Houston, TX Return to table of contents
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 17:19:58 -0400 Subject: Measures >From the "Renfewshire CAMRA Publications" web site (in http://chaos100.paisley.ac.uk/%7Ecis/camra/art2.html): Cask Sizes and Measures Name Size Comments Butt 108 Gallons (No longer used) Puncheon 72 Gallons (no longer used) Hogshead 54 Gallons (now rarely used) Barrel 36 Gallons Kilderkin or kiln 18 Gallons Firkin 9 Gallons Pin 4.5 Gallons (now rarely used) Gallon 8 Pints Yard of Ale 2.25 - 4.5 Pints (not standard) Quart 2 Pints (a quarter gallon) Pint 20 Fluid ounces Nip .3 Pint (a common bottle size) Gill 5 Fluid ounces (a quarter pint) One has to assume that these are UK measures. Factors of 2 abound, except in the transition from Gallon to Pin. Return to table of contents
From: Richard Sharp <dsharp at ionet.net> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 18:24:32 -0500 Subject: We Tax everything, conical fermentator . Hello all , In reading the threads on taxation I have to put my 2 cents (plus tax) in here . I live in Oklahoma City and we have a tax rate of almost 9% (8.375) and that is on EVERYTHING . We tax all foods , all prescription drug medical supplies etc , have a high income tax , property tax , and even tax illegal drug . What was that.....a tax on illegal drugs ?.....yup . To sell illegal drugs a person must have a tax stamp for the particular type of illegal drugs sold . So now if a person is busted on drug selling charges and do not have a tax stamp they are also charged with tax evasion . Now onto my problem . A few weeks ago while browsing a local "flea market" what to my wondering eyes should appear but a stainless steel conical fermentator . Beautifully hand made from extra heavy gage stainless steel with a tripod leg system , the cover has a half hinged cover with a 2" vent fitting on the non movable half of the cover . At this point I now know that I did understand what I was doing when I made my first batch of beer with this unit . My understanding was that with the steep conical bottom the spent yeast and trub would settle out . To start out the initial fermentation went fantastic and the aroma was heavenly . After 3 days my ale was ready to transfer to the secondary fermentator . Opening the valve on the bottom I drained off about a quart of thick material before the liquid cleared . I attached the transfer tube and started to fill the secondary . However as soon as the flow started , it turned thick again . Once again I drained off the liquid until it cleared . This went on time and time again . The result was about 3 gallons of light brown liquid in the fermentator that looked like pancake batter , and 2 gallons of the same thing going down the drain . Now it is obvious that I did not how to use the conical fermentator . The conical fermentator now sits in the garden with flowers in it , and I have returned to my flat bottom fermentator that give me great beer with very little waste . Where did I go wrong . Best , Dick Sharp dsharp at ionet.net PGP2.6 KeyId 39EB1C6D Return to table of contents
From: Regan Pallandi <reganp at iris.bio.uts.EDU.AU> Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:14:44 +1200 (EST) Subject: Counterflow (non)chillers Hello all - I have built myself a CF chiller (details - 10 metres of 9 mm ID copper, jacketed in 16 mm tubing) and have used it twice with fairly ordinary results. It has taken 20-25 minutes for the wort to pass through the system, and, despite the cooling water being at around 5 deg C, the wort passes into the fermenter at about 15 deg C. Does anyone have any experience/ideas? IMCFCU? (is my CF chiller useless?) Thanks. Regan in Sydney Return to table of contents
From: Kallen Jenne <tirado at sprynet.com> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 18:31:42 -0700 Subject: High-Temp 5/8" Hose Is anyone interested in 5/8" ID High-Temp, Food-Grade hose? I'm trying to put an order together (I need about 12 feet for my wort pump) and would like to buy 50' as the price drops about 30%. If interested e-mail me at the address below. Kallen tirado at sprynet.com Return to table of contents
From: Greg Tompkins <greg at bpdigital.com> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 21:05:48 -0700 Subject: moonshine Does anyone have or know where I can find recipies on how to make moonshine? (or is this considered a "distilled spirit")? My grandfather has misplaced his recipie and I'm trying to track down one for him. THANKS! - --GREG-- Return to table of contents
From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 08:04:14 edt Subject: Bavarian Summer drinks HBDers, Having just returned from spending 3 weeks in Southern Germany (Bavaria) I've discovered a couple unique customs that I'd like to share with y'all. For those germans who wish to cut back on the amount of alchohol they consume or prefer a more thirst-quenching drink in these warmer months, they have two kinds of drinks. One is called a Radler (pronounced rodla) which is half Export type beer and half white lemonade. The other is called Russ (sounds like loose) which is half weizen either kristal or hefe and half white lemonade. Both are very refreshing and go well in the outdoor beeer gardens. They even have commercial varieties which are premixed in the bottle. The german lemonade is not quite like our lemonade, but more like sprite or 7-UP, so if you try this, I'd experiment with beverages along those lines. Mike in Cherry Hill NJ Return to table of contents
From: "DAVID T. PETERS GERMANY(UTC +02:00)" <d_peters at e-mail.com> Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 08:53:15 EDT Subject: Gott Cooler Setup Greetings Homebrewing World. I have just returned to Germany with my 10 gallon Gott, Phil's Phalse Bottom and Sparge Arm. I had little time to get extras and will have to complete the modifications in Germany. I have looked at various archives and noted the Bung replacement and was wondering what other modifications should be made. Is there a Gott faq any where? Did I buy the wrong Phil's Phalse Bottom? I put it in the cooler and it is smaller than the inside diameter of the cooler. How do I make up the difference? TIA. REGARDS, DAVID T. PETERS E-MAIL: D_PETERS at E-MAIL.COM CW170 NA BODY CONSTRUCTION LEADER, VEHICLE OPERATIONS FORD OF GERMANY, MERKENICH MAIL LOCATION: D-ME/MF-21 PHONE: 9 1 70-37791 FAX: 9 1 70-31635 Return to table of contents
From: Mike Kidulich <mjkid at ix.netcom.com> Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:39:21 -0400 Subject: First all grain attempt Greetings, I am preparing to embark upon my first all-grain effort. I have a CF wort chiller and a 10 gal SS kettle. I just ordered a grain mill and an Easymasher for my kettle. My kettle is a wide, low style instead of the tall, narrow type. (The kettle is 16 in. wide). I realize this will give me a shallow grain bed. How will this affect my efficiency? Also, what would be a good sparge setup for a kettle this wide? The Phil's sparger isn't wide enough to cover the grain bed. Any suggestions? - -- Mike Kidulich mjkid at ix.netcom.com mjk at rfc.comm.harris.com DNRC Minister of Home Brewing, Relaxation, and Really Cool Toys Holder of Previous Knowledge O- Return to table of contents
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl at ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu> Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 08:55:29 -0500 (CDT) Subject: stuck ferm., Flavor hops Domenick wondered how to re-start a beer that seemed to finish at 1.02. Could it be that it was really done? Would the mash schedule combined with a seemingly unattenuative yeast only give you 1.02? I guess you probably ruled that out already. How about stirring to rouse the yeast without aerating? How flocculant is it? ***** Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at galen.med.virginia.edu> writes: >Well, not that I would not drink another Pale Ale brewed with >cascade but I've found lately most of my Pale Ales have been >brewed with Pearl or Mt.Hood bittering and Cascade for flavor and >aroma....Anyway, I'm looking for suggestions on other hop >combinations for Ales, pale or other wise. You could try the english standard: Kent Goldings. Or the other noble hops, Hallertauer (which your Mt. Hoods should resemble) or Saaz. While not "authentic", Saaz in an IPA might be a great beer. Also, some brewers are pushing the new Columbus hops for bittering and flavor. And try the new Ultra hops and tell us what they're like. Gee, all those great hops...I feel like brewing tonight! - Bryan grosbl at ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl at ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu> Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:59:38 -0500 (CDT) Subject: world beer cup Just had a few comments about the world beer cup. First, congratulations to Rob. Silver for barleywine. Second, seems like a lot of beers that we consider "defining the style" weren't listed. No mention of Pilsner Urquell, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Anchor Steam, Pete's Wicked Ale, and even Salvator. Either they didn't win, or they didn't enter. What does it mean to make a better bohemian pilsner than PU? Can PU be out of style? Also, no german beers won for Kolsh, Alt, or any of the four wheat styles. Third, some funny names. Augsburger Doppelbock won a bronze for bock, not doppelbock. And Stovepipe Porter won a bronze for European dark lager. Lager? I guess these are marketing names and the beers were entered in the appropriate category. It's not always clear where the beers were brewed. You get things like Dos Equis Amber Lager LaBatt USA/Cerveceria Cuauhtemac, Darien CT. Is this brewed in the US by LaBatt? Is it brewed in Mexico and imported by LaBatt? I'd go with the former, but there's St. Bernardus Tripel Brouerij St. Bernarndis/Merchant du Vin Corp, Seattle WA I assume this is a Belgian beer imported by Merchant du Vin. American beers certainly dominated, which indicates that there are a lot of diverse and quality beers being brewed here. Great Britain was almost shut out, as was Germany. I'm sure this has to do with shipping problems. They should do next year's competition in Europe and see how the brews stack up. Well, just my comments. I like this idea better than the GABF, which has boiled down to winning ribbons for marketing purposes. But if the best beers aren't entered, then the results don't mean as much. - Bryan grosbl at ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
From: shawn at aob.org (Shawn Steele) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:33:27 -0600 Subject: 1996 World Beer Cup Winners The 1996 World Beer Cup winners list is available from info at aob.org by sending mail to info at aob.org and including the key word "WBC96WIN" in the body of your message. - - shawn Shawn Steele Webmaster Association of Brewers Return to table of contents
From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 16:23:52 CDT Subject: mills/grassy/Brewer's Companion/imported yeast/iodophor/HSA/Guinness/winning Well, here are some more dated topics thanks to two conferences on consecutive weeks. Sorry about the three posts in one digest. I emailed them on three different days -- I don't know why they showed up in reverse order in one HBD. Dave writes: >It worked, but very poorly, since the grains wouldn't feed into the nip >without my forcing them in there. I was puzzled until recently, when I saw an >Italian three roll flour mill , SS construction, well built, in an HB shop. >This mill is versatile and it is possible to use only two rolls and get nearly >perfect crushed malt as well as other grains. I saw one of those and I too bought one. I tried it on some malt and the result was: 1. very slow throughput, and 2. splintered husks. You see, the grooves on this mill (Marga Mulina or Atlas, I believe) face opposite directions and are diagonal. The result is that every grain gets twisted quite severely as it is being pulled through. To make this into a mill that splinters the husks less, you need to add longitudinal (the long way) grooves so that the grain is pulled through "straight." This is what Jay Hersh has reported. I simply retired my mill to making bread and bought a JSP MaltMill. *** Chuck writes: >I to quit dry hopping after I experienced a "grassy"flavor in my beers, but I >have always assumed that it was due to a low AA rating of The Cascade hops >that I have bought. I have used MANY oz's of Cascades because the average AA >rating has never been above 4.2 or so I went on the "more is better" routine. >I see in alot of these post's that you folks have access ,to a lot higher AA >rating than I find in the local brew shops,so if any of you could e-mail me >where you find such high AA Cascades, it would do an old brewer good. Hell >your Cascades at 5.8 AA are higher than the Centennials that I use now.(5.7 AA). Hop aroma comes from the hop oils and not the alpha acids. There may be some correlation between the %AA of a particular crop year and the oil content but then again, not all the compounds in the hop oil are desirable. In my opinion, based upon conversations with Dr. Alfred Haunold, you should not be basing your dryhopping (or finish hopping for that matter) strictly on either the %AA or the %oil. As for those Cascades, they vary from year to year. Two years ago the 1/4 bale of whole Cascades I got from HopUnion were rated at 7.4%!!! *** Kallen writes: >I personally have encouraged every newbie I've met to run out and by this >[Mosher's Brewer's Companion] as part of the "Homebrewer's Desk Reference" >and have found it invaluable for the clarity and purity of the information >provided. I haven't seen the 2nd edition but there were quite a few errors besides the hop calculations in the 1st edition. Two that come immediately to mind are the IBUs for Altbiers and that carbonate does not increase pH. I certainly hope that they fixed those too in the second edition. Anybody know? *** Dave writes: >My son just came back from Europe last night (bringing me some light and some >dark Hefeweiss as a good source of fresh yeast ( and beer, of course!). What a Most Weizens are filtered and then repitched with lager yeast at bottling, so the yeast in the bottle is rarely the fermentation yeast. Schneider Weiss is one noteable exception, but the fact is that most Weizens in Germany are made with either W68 or W66 which are available from Wyeast, The Yeast Culture Kit Company, Yeast Lab and several other suppliers. *** Dion writes: >A friend of mine who owns a microbrewery is using Oxine and he really >likes the no-rinse 5ppm final rinse for his equipment. He notes that >with iodophor, the no-rinse concentration affects the flavor of the >beer, but the oxine does not. At what concentration was he using the iodophor? While I never use my mouth to start siphoning beer, I often use it to start siphoning 12.5 ppm (even 25 ppm) iodophor and have gotten a mouthfull several times. I rinced with water immediately just in case, but did not notice a particularly strong or unpleasant flavour. As for aroma, I believe that diluted iodophor smells mildly fruity -- that's about it. I am quite certain that a few tablespoons will not affect the flavour or aroma of 5 gallons of beer. *** Denis writes: >Well, first of all it depends on how you transfer your hot wort from the >kettle to the primary. If you just dump and splash it, you risk developing >metalic tastes in your beer from what's is called HSA (hot side aeration). I agree that splashing hot wort will give you hot-side aeration, but don't agree that metallic tastes are the result. I feel that HSA results initially in sherry-like flavours (like Harvey's Bristol Cream) or nutty flavours. In the long run, the beer gets stale, papery or wet-cardboard aromas. The only metallic taste I ever got was from over-dryhopping with Willamette in the keg. *** DL writes: >Second would be advice from anyone that's done a home- >cobbled nitrogen regulator setup. As I understand, US >bars that are serving Guinness under nitrogen are doing >a high-p.s.i. (70p.s.i.g.?) system, since that much >pressure is needed to get the nitrogen to dissolve into >solution (compared to the 8-12p.s.i.g. range needed for >similar solubility with CO2). Then, there's a mechanism >at the tap they fiddle with that seems to be acting as >another pressure drop to avoid Guinness geysers. Nitrogen is virtually insoluble which is why it is used to dispense Guinness and wine. The high pressures used in Guinness mixed-gass dispensing systems is not to get the N2 into solution, but rather to produce a lot of turbulence inside the faucet. It is meant to emulate the effect of handpumps with sparklers (a sort of constriction device, *not* coincidentally like the perforated disk inside the Guinness faucet). Just as Rob explained, only the CO2 portion of the mixed gas (CO2/N2) goes into solution. You can buy various proportions of CO2/N2 from your beverage gas supplier. If you have 30/70 CO2/N2, you can get the equivalent of 12psi of CO2 with 40psi of the mixed gas (40psi * 0.30 = 12 psi). If you want to serve a Guinness in the most traditional sense, you can simply borrow a handpump or ask your liquor store to get "A Guinness faucet, a Guinness tap, hoses and a tank of mixed gas" from their Guinness distributor for you to rent along with a keg of Guinness. They probably will not understand but the Guinness distributor will and get them the right stuff. *** Dave, after reading the AHA winning recipes, writes about all the variables he seems to associate with prize-winning beer: secondaries, temps below 72F, glass fermenters, and all-grain. He then asks: > Being a beginning brewer who is getting ready to do an >extract-plus-steeped-specialty-malts brew in a single-stage plastic >fermenter at a fermentation temperature of 72-79F, should this be telling >me something? Many have posted that keeping the temps below 72F will make the biggest difference regarding this list. I agree 100%. My main reason for posting is to add my support for what Russell said, namely that it's not necessarily the methods that assured these recipes their winning status. The winners of competitions are more likely to be advanced brewers than beginners and these methods are more common among advanced brewers. With some styles it is difficult to make a prize winner unless you do all-grain. American Light Lagers are an obvious example -- it's difficult to get it light enough in colour regardless of any other flavour factors. Using fresh extract, you can make prize-winning beers even with single-stage, plastic fermenters. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korzonas at bell-labs.com Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas Return to table of contents
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM> Date: 18 Jun 96 13:14:31 EDT Subject: Hop Extract Brewsters: I have some old whole cone hops which are taking up too much room in the fridge now that lagering time is here. I would like to convert them to a hop extract for use as bittering hops. Any suggestions on how to go about this? Any references? Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents