Homebrew Digest Friday, 5 July 1996 Number 2094
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
DISTRIBUTION STATUS ("Postmaster")
Correction to "pH drop" (Charlie Scandrett)
Viscosity & lauter times (Charlie Scandrett)
signoff (Luc Grondin)
Keg conversion results 1 ("Braam Greyling")
Keg conversion results --2 ("Braam Greyling")
RE: Yet another question RE: carboy comes to life after previous life... (Kerry Drake)
Re: Canned Skunk (saunderm at vt.edu (J. Matthew Saunders))
GDP on the Radio, maltose rest, strawberries ("David R. Burley")
Drying Hops (jim.anderson at execnet.com (JIM ANDERSON))
Copy of: Wild Hops ("David R. Burley")
drying hops (DONBREW at aol.com)
Fine Cigars???? (Eric Marzewski)
Re: Temperature Controller Units (Douglas Kerfoot)
Bottles for Beer (ronmis at getnet.com (Ron))
NaCl as a sweetener?!? ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
beer (aod at algonet.se (Patrik Andersson))
Need information of suppliers (Jorge Blasig - IQ)
Coffee Ale (david.lubell at johnabbott.qc.ca (david lubell))
postcards, hop dryer- NOT!/ Spaaaace brewer (ccoyote at sunrem.com (John (The Coyote) Wyllie))
Cooper's Extra Stout, Corn Syrup (Andrew)
refermentations? (Kathy Booth)
Hops in Spaaace ("David R. Burley")
re: Cider recipes (Kurt Schilling)
Good source for brew supplies in Seattle area (Maxwell McDaniel)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Postmaster" <POSTMSTR at is.Arco.COM>
Date: 04 Jul 1996 01:34:01 CST
Subject: DISTRIBUTION STATUS
PLANO.HOMEBREW DISTRIBUTION STATUS INFORMATION 07/04/96 01:34:
0
=======================================================================
DISTRIBUTION ID: PLANO.HOMEBREW.9393
SUBJECT : Homebrew Digest #2093 (Thursday, 4 July 1996
DATE SENT : 07/04/96 TIME SENT: 01:34:00
=======================================================================
YOUR MAIL WAS NOT DELIVERED FOR THE FOLLOWING REASON:
SNADS STATUS : 0010
EXPLANATION : SNADS TEMPORARY SERVER ERROR
=======================================================================
RECIPIENT : NOTESMS.SSCHMID
LAST NAME : Schmidt
FIRST NAME : Scott
MIDDLE INITIAL : E
NATIVE NAME : Scott E. Schmidt at NDPAI01
COUNTRY :
ADMD :
PRMD :
ORGANIZATION : AIOG
ORG UNIT 1 : ARCO El-Djazair
ORG UNIT 2 :
ORG UNIT 3 :
ORG UNIT 4 :
DDA :
Return to table of contents
From: Charlie Scandrett <merino at buggs.cynergy.com.au>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 17:55:04 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Correction to "pH drop"
I posted ,
>The pH drop *and* the lower SG causes the less polar *oxidisable*
>polyphenols to be extracted at this stage.
The pH *rise*...etc, I was looking at a classified phenol extraction graph
which "dropped", not the pH.
Charlie (Brisbane, Australia)
Return to table of contents
From: Charlie Scandrett <merino at buggs.cynergy.com.au>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 19:08:18 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Viscosity & lauter times
David Burley wrote,
>I don't have the data, and have never seen a comparison of the effect of
>viscosity on sparge times,
<SNIP>
Any info on the impact of viscosity on
>flow rate through agrain column? Using viscosity data vs temperature for
>maltose solutions, what does this mean about the effect of sparge temperature
>on the rate of sparging? linear or exponential dependency?
Viscosity is simply resistance to flow, it is analogous to friction, it is
not density. A typical barley wort figure is Visc= 1.52 mPas. According to
M&BS, the velocity of liquid through the bed is linearly inversly
proportional to the viscosity.
Flow Rate = Constant x Pressure Differential x Permeability
"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""
Depth of Bed x Wort Viscosity
The higher temperature of mashout will decrease Wort Viscosity, but also
importantly denature lipoxygenase, reducing your HSA potential during
lauter. The Institute of Brewing in London recomends 75C lauter for this
reason.
The Permeability is influenced by crush particle size distribution (flour,
grits etc), mash method(decoction or infusion) and particle
compression/distortion by the hydraulic forces of Flow Rate (remember
endosperm particles are porrige-like at this stage). This sealing effect
raises the Pressure Differential, so two variables in this equation are
partly dependant on the answer! This is an unstable model which sometimes
requires a deft touch on the grant valves!
Oxidising the mash can cause an increase in Viscosity by forming disulphide
bridges between the HMW proteins, effectively gumming things up.
All wheat malts give worts with approximately 10% higher Viscosity.
Poorly modified malts give gummy beta-glucans which also increase Viscosity.
Lower pH reduces Viscosity.
The point to remember in all this is that speedy runoff is not the optimum
for either of the functions of lautering,
1/filtration
2/leaching
The variables are many and the practices of different brewers also vary
greatly. Trying to explain it all in one Lauter FAQ is taking me longer than
I thought.
Charlie (Brisbane, Australia)
Return to table of contents
From: Luc Grondin <lgrondin at rescol.fse.ulaval.ca>
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 07:53:56 -0300
Subject: signoff
signoff homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com Luc Grondin
- ------------------------------
Return to table of contents
From: "Braam Greyling" <acg at knersus.nanoteq.co.za>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 14:22:03 +200
Subject: Keg conversion results 1
Hi,
I posted a question on converting a ss/keg to a mash/lautertun.
Thanks to everybody who replied.
This is the results I got:
Look at this site:
http://www.dnh.mv.net/ipusers/peanut/carrick.htm
***********************************************
L-shape drain tube:
A 3/8" NPT coupling is welded into the side of the keg just above the
lower weld line (where the bottom is welded to the side of the keg).
This part is a cylinder with 3/8" female pipe threads on both ends.
The female threads on the outside are used to attach a 3/8" x 2" long
NPT nipple and a 3/8" ball valve. The threads on the inside are used
to attach a stainless steel 3/8" pipe to 3/8" tube adapter. The
pipe-to-tube adapter part has 3/8" male pipe threads on one end, and a
3/8" SwageLok tube (compression) connection on the other. (SwageLok
is a US brand name of tube fittings; I don't know if you get them
where you are, but any high quality compression-type fitting should
work)
A piece of 3/8" stainless tubing is formed into an "L" shape
(90-degree bend) such that when it is attached to the tube adapter at
the long end of the "L", the short end of the "L" is pointed at the
center of the keg bottom, and clears it by 1/8" or so. The false
bottom is an ~8" diameter disc of perforated stainless steel (20 ga.,
with 3/32" holes on 5/32" centers). This disc has a 3/8" hole drilled
in the center, through which the vertical section (short end) of the
"L" shaped tube passes. A stainless steel collar with a setscrew is
located on the drain tube so that it depresses the center of the
falsebottom, an presses it tightly against the domed keg bottom.
For a mash tun, I would make the false bottom as big as possible. My
1/2 bbl kegs have a 12" diameter hole cut in the top, so that would be
my choice. Your 50-l kegs are a little smaller in diameter, so you
will likely need to go a little smaller. The only drawback I see for
using this system for a lauter tun is that the tube could interfere
with stirring the mash.
I am in the process of rebuilding my brew house, using three
half-barrels, converted as described above. I'm going to try directly
heating the mash tun from the bottom (with a natural gas flame), and
using a small pump to remove the liquid from under the false bottom
and redistributing it over the top of the mash. This has been done
successfully before, but I have so far only mashed in a 10-gallon
cooking pot, and simply stirred while heating to do temperature steps.
Recirculating will keep me from having to move the mash from the
mashing vessel to the lauter tun.
******************************************************************
Part two follows
Braam Greyling Design Engineer
Nanoteq (Pty) Ltd tel. +27 (12) 665-1338
- ---- 24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case ----
- ---- coincidence ????? ----
Return to table of contents
From: "Braam Greyling" <acg at knersus.nanoteq.co.za>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 14:22:11 +200
Subject: Keg conversion results --2
Part two:
After I asked what about a plastic or pvc false bottom:
the only problem that i can see w/ using pvc for a false bottom
is that you'd have to either cut off the whole top of the keg
and lose the handles or figure out some way to make your false
bottom in two pieces and hinge it. if you aren't using the nice
handled kegs, no problem. the other problem i couldn't resolve
when i was thinking about using a false bottom was supporting
it. i've seen a setup that a brewer in a microbrewery in
birmingham (alabama) has that uses a ring of stainless about
3-4" high to support his stainless false bottom- it's about
twelve inches in diameter and fits nicely in the bottom of the
keg. he has the luxury, however, of being able to trade his
brewery's beer for metalwork. maybe you could do something
similar by cutting a section of a decommissioned plastic bucket
for use as a support. the only difficulty would be getting the
edges straight, which would require some type of band saw to do
the cutting.
i think i still have to recommend the soft copper tube manifold,
though. one thing that i'm sure i'll want to do when i eventually mash
in a converted keg is add heat directly for step mashing. even if your
pvc can handle the heat of the mash (< 170 F), it probably won't stand
up to direct firing. there's one other problem i see w/ any type of
false bottom- especially in a keg b/c the amount of liquor that
collects below the false bottom is a greater proportion of the total
liquid than in any commercial setup. when you add heat, you can't
effectively stir what's below the false bottom. the liquor gets hot
and i'd suspect that your enzymes might be likely to denature w/o real
serious care. with a tube manifold, i'd be able to stir everything but
a cup or two of the mash liquid, and the copper can definitely handle
the heat. the only thing i'm still uncertain about is the ease of
lautering comparitively.
the manifold i have in my cooler works well except when i make
my belgian white recipe, which has wheat malt, flaked wheat, and
rolled oats in the grain bill. then it is extremely slow. but that may
be something you just can't help b/c of the ingredients. for single
step infusions, it's a whiz bang operation.
THANKS TO ALL WHO REPLIED !!!
Cheers
Braam Greyling Design Engineer
Nanoteq (Pty) Ltd tel. +27 (12) 665-1338
- ---- 24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case ----
- ---- coincidence ????? ----
Return to table of contents
From: Kerry Drake <drakes at oklahoma.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 07:54:14 -0500
Subject: RE: Yet another question RE: carboy comes to life after previous life...
Michael Mahler asks about strawberries:
>Is the sugar in the berries fermentable?
Yes.
Kerry Drake
Return to table of contents
From: saunderm at vt.edu (J. Matthew Saunders)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 10:15:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Canned Skunk
"Kirk Harralson" <kwh at smtpgwy.roadnet.ups.com> writes:
>Over the years, I've been educated by the HBD about light-struck beers in
clear
>or green bottles giving that familiar skunk smell. Heineken (sp?) is a
>particularly popular example of this. On a return flight last week, I asked
>what beers they had, and Heineken was the only choice other than Budmilloors,
>so
>I took it. I don't know if it is an airline rule or not, but all beer was
>served in cans, not bottles. The funny thing is, when I poured the beer, the
>skunk smell was present! It was not as pronounced as the bottled version I'm
>used to, but it was definitely there. I think it's a pretty safe assumption
>that light does not get through aluminum cans, so I have to wonder when the
>beer
>is exposed to light. This also made me wonder about the bottled version. When
>I buy a case of Heineken, it's sealed in a cardboard case. Again, I assume
that
>
>not much light is going to get through there. If these are packaged at the
>brewery, when are the bottles exposed to light? Again, I'm not questioning the
>light-struck phenomenom -- that has been explained ad infinitum in past
>digests,
>and I accept it at face value -- I just wonder when and how it occurs.
Simple answer. They do it on purpose.
Cheers!
Matthew.
**********
"Madness takes its toll. Please have exact change."
H O M E P A G E
http://fbox.vt.edu:10021/S/saunderm/index.html/page_1.html
J. Matthew Saunders
saunderm at vt.edu
I N D E X P A G E
http://dogstar.bevd.blacksburg.va.us
**********
Return to table of contents
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 04 Jul 96 12:17:09 EDT
Subject: GDP on the Radio, maltose rest, strawberries
Brewsters:
George De Piro will be on the radio July 8th, 8-9 PM WRTN 93.5 FM promoting our
favorite hobby to the unwashed masses. Congratulations! I'm lucky enough to be
in radio range of NYC and will be listening. You are already in my computer
scheduler. If I can get through, I'll ask you whatever questions you think will
demonstrate your exceptional skills and knowledge and will appropriately
impress
and interest the listeners. Do you have any favorites? How about other HBDers
who are out of range? Any ideas or suggestions?
- ------------------------------------------------
On the discussion of a rest at just below the gelatinization of barley starch,
Eric Warner in his terrific book "German Wheat Beer" (1992), Brewers Pub.
Boulder CO, mentions a "maltose rest" at 147F. I had thought that this was to
chew up the starch gelatinized by decoction prior to going into the
gelatinization of the remainder of the starch. But as you can see, the maltose
rest occurs before the decoction and presumably before gelatinizitation of any
(barley) starch To quote ( p. 65) :
"Another commonly used single decoction mash program (Diagram 3) subjects the
entire mash to a protein rest before the decoction is pulled. Using infusions
the temperature of the mash is raised from the mash-in temperature to the
protein rest temperature and then again to the maltose rest temperature. The
entire mash is subjected to the maltose rest temperature of 147 F (64C) for
10-20 min before the thick decoction is pulled.
It is then similarly handled to the decoction mash program in Diagram 2."
In the procedure referred to as DIagram 2, the text reads ( p 63) "....the
temperature is raised 1 deg per minute until saccharification temperature of
158
to 162 degrees F (70 to 72 degrees C) is reached." So, I interpret this to mean
that a maltose rest and a sacharification are not the same thing, and that his
definitions are in line with convention.
So, I'm puzzled. What is a maltose rest for? Any thoughts on this? Why is it
called a *maltose* rest? Does it have anything to do with the wheat malt
gelatinization temperature? I know rice has a much higher gelatinization
temperature than barley, but what about wheat?
- ---------------------------------------------
Michael Mahler is surprized to find his beer refermenting after adding
strawberries and asks is the sugar in strawberries fementable. Definitely yes.
I wouldn't bottle yet until they finish fermenting and the FG is stable or it
shows residual sugar less than 1/4%..
- --------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
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From: jim.anderson at execnet.com (JIM ANDERSON)
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 96 19:54:00 -0500
Subject: Drying Hops
There's been a bit of discussion here lately about drying hops. After
posting my message about wild hops the other day, I've been revisiting
some of my texts and found the following in Papazian's "Companion:"
"Here's a hopbit: Interesting results were found by German hop
researchers when they tested the stability of frozen undried hops. They
found that the undried hops, when frozen, were significantly more stable
than dried hops stored under identical conditions. Practically
speaking, freezing ten times more water and dealing with increased
volumes does not make this procedure commercially viable. But then,
there are homebrewers ...." (p. 67)
Has anyone here experimented with freezing UNDRIED hops? Comments?
- Jim
Return to table of contents
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 04 Jul 96 13:12:20 EDT
Subject: Copy of: Wild Hops
- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: David R. Burley, 103164,3202
TO: INTERNET:jim_anderson at email.state.ut.us,
INTERNET:jim_anderson at email.state.ut.us
DATE: 7/4/96 1:07 PM
RE: Copy of: Wild Hops
Jim,
Regarding the use of the clothes dryer to dry hops, in my enthusiasm to help, I
may have led you astray - sorry. In response to an HBDer comment, I rechecked
the Pap references and could not find this comment on using the clothes dryer
to
dry hops. He does say, however in the Handbook for Brewers that hops should be
air dried out of the sun. Other HBDers, with long time experience, recommend
drying on screens in attics and garages during the summer. One HBDer comments
that the handling in the clothes dryer would be too rough. I'd have to try this
out to be convinced, but his caution is well noted. Despite M&BS comments on
the
temperature, they all seem to be using drying temperatures in the range of
90-100F.
I wonder if they are having trouble with not drying properly and allowing the
various enzymes to continue the ripening ( or whatever) , since one of the
contributors commented that his hops were only good for something like six
months. I suspect the reason for drying the hops at 130-150F is more than just
trying to speed up the drying for commercial reasons as one contributor
suggested. Drying at this high T may have to do with long term stability.
It would be interesting for some of those home hop growers to experiment with
the effect of drying temperature on the stability of hops versus other
properties like hop oil content. I remember seeing a cartoon a long time ago in
a HB book in which the HBer has stolen his wife's hair dryer and is drying
hops.
Maybe this is an idea along with the pillow case idea which could be adapted to
a small scale for experimentation.
Best of luck and let me know how it turns out.
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Return to table of contents
From: DONBREW at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 13:31:05 -0400
Subject: drying hops
I guess I'll chime in on this one.
Remember that old Zap-ap lauter tun and hair dryer over there in that
corner? Drill a bunch of holes around the outside bucket in the deadpace
area, put your hops into the inner bucket, place a piece of screen over the
hops, then make a hole in a lid that fits the inner bucket just the size of
the hose from that old hair dryer. Turn on the hair dryer on low or no heat,
high blower speed until the hops are dried. Don't try to fill the bucket
with hops, just a couple of inches deep is enuff.
Don
Falls Church, Va.
Return to table of contents
From: Eric Marzewski <emarzews at nova.umuc.edu>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 13:40:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fine Cigars????
Fellow Brewers!
Anyone know of any microbreweries, homebrew shops or great beer
bars that allow cigar smoking or sell cigars and humidors?
How about any upcoming or annual cigar/brew pairings, dinners or
tastings? Any homebrew clubs with some cigar smokers?
Lastly, know of any "cigar clubs"?
Cheers,
Eric Marzewski
Return to table of contents
From: Douglas Kerfoot <dkerfoot at macatawa.org>
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 14:48:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Temperature Controller Units
Mike Bell Asked:
>Does anyone have experience with the long term reliability of the Hunter
>Airstat temperature controllers, and/or the homemade units? Any thoughts
>on which route would be best?
I can tell you that the one I built for fermentation control has been working
great for over a year, and the one I built for RIMS control has lasted more
than 6 months. They are based around two different Radio Shack modules.
When comparing costs, be sure to remember that the designs based around the
radio shack modules can both heat and cool! The HTML version of my plans now
contains instructions for using a teletimer module which will cut your costs
dramatically.
- --
Douglas G. Kerfoot
Brewmaster and Chief Publican (Down with 'mocrats!)
Cunning Linguist(TM) Brewery and Flophouse
Need a temperature controller for both heating and cooling?
Check out my website at: http:\\www.macatawa.org\~dkerfoot\
Return to table of contents
From: ronmis at getnet.com (Ron)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 12:03:42 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Bottles for Beer
My first five gallon batch is almost through fermenting and I am preparing
to bottle. The bottles I have seen at my local retailer are about fifteen
bucks for 24. Meanwhile, I have a case of empty Samual Adams Scotch Ale
bottles in the kitchen. I have washed the bottles with a bleach solution
and then twice with an antibacterial soap and then rinsed twice.
Is there some reason I need my retailers expensive bottles or can I just use
the cleaned Sam Adams bottles?
Thanks for the advice.
Ron
Return to table of contents
From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD at HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 16:18:00 -0500
Subject: NaCl as a sweetener?!?
>.... A friend of mine suggested adding salt to sweeten it.... Makes
>sense as salt can be used to sweeten green apples....
I'm not sure that it sweetens the apple, just cuts (or at least
distracts) from the sourness. I would rather try the old beer trick of
adding some non-fermenting sugar. You could also use some
Campden tabs to kill the yeast and sweeten with any sweetener
struck your fancy, however you would have to force carbonate
it afterwards. I think you probably can still adjust the acid level.
A good titration will cut a lot of the bite.
BTW, make sure you bottle it in a bottle designed to hold
pressure e.g. a champagne bottle. A regular wine bottle will
blow the cork or at lower pressure cause it to slowly ooze
out wine which eventually turns into a big sticky mess. Speaking
from experience here.
Daniel Goodale (yes, that is my real name)
The Biohazard Brewing Company (Wine Division)
Sure it's gonna kill ya, but who wants to live forever.
Return to table of contents
From: aod at algonet.se (Patrik Andersson)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 21:49:55 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: beer
I guess this list is more about Beer then other brewing =)
So, I wonder if there is any other homebrewing list, more concentrated on
winemaking and cider making.
Please mail me some adress's or something privately.
Patrik Andersson
aod at algonet.se
AoD at algonet.se
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Morning oh dreadful dawn, spread your pale dim light.
Reign for your last time over lands once so bright.
But your energy shall be weak and soon to die.
So die in pain my dear, expire, goodbye
I have come to challenge your ways
Light's bane - The last of your days
Oh broken wings - My darkness enslaves
Allow me to erase your feeble race
- -Dissection
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
MANCHESTER UNITED FC RULES EARTH!
Return to table of contents
From: Jorge Blasig - IQ <gisalb at elmer.fing.edu.uy>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 19:38:27 -0300 (UY)
Subject: Need information of suppliers
>From :
Jorge Blasig
Montevideo
Uruguay
I have been reading lot of information about homebrewing and would like
to start brewing beer as soon as possible. However I have a problem: I
need a supplier close to Uruguay.
I would like to receive some information if I can find any supplier in
Argentina or Brasil.
Jorge Blasig
Return to table of contents
From: david.lubell at johnabbott.qc.ca (david lubell)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 19:58:57 -0400
Subject: Coffee Ale
To all,
Does anyone have a recipe for adding coffee into an ale?
David
Return to table of contents
From: ccoyote at sunrem.com (John (The Coyote) Wyllie)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 23:04:51 -0600
Subject: postcards, hop dryer- NOT!/ Spaaaace brewer
>From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD at HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL>
sed
> For those of you who still use the US Postal system,
here is a quick idea for postcards. Instead of tossing out that
six pack carrier, carefully dissect the side panels out and use
them as postcards. The cardboard color backsides are fine
for a black pen or you can glue (spray adhesive works the
best) a piece of paper for a more pen friendly writing surface.
The cards will be bigger than the standard postcard size so
the post office will require a $00.32 stamp
Biohazard Brewing Company
Sure it's gonna kill ya, but who wants to live forever?
* One, I heard hombrew only kills the brain cells you don't use, and
* Two: if you want to stay postal friendly here's a little info:
Postal cards and postcards must meet these minimum/max size standards:
Minimum for all first class mail:
at least 0.0007 of an inch thick
if less than 1/4inch thick:
rectangular in shape,
at least 3.5" high, at least 5" long.
for automation compatible mail, pieces larger than 4.25" by 6" must
be at least
0.009 " thick.
pieces not meeting the minimum size are nonmailable and prohibited from mail.
Maximum for postal cards and postcards is:
4.25" high, and 6" long. 0.0095 inches thick.
All first class mailpieces must be no more than one ounce in weight.
Be sure the place the address, return address and postage like you would
for a normal letter. OR ELSE! Also, black on white is preferred for
addressing purposes. Colors and fancy and all for the inside or notes on a
card, but keep the address clean. A sticker for the address, or paste white
paper across the whole backside as suggested. Also leave a clear band
across the bottom for a barcode.
Trust me on this folks. I've had my mailpiece certified and I have a
genuine certificate to prove it. I work for a company that does more mail
than the Salt Lake post office during tax season (jan).
***
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM> sed
Also, drying the hops can be a
pain and can lead to a loss of activity ( let alone begetting lots of mold and
mildew) if not properly carried out.
Papazian ( I think) in one or more of his books suggests using your clothes
dryer. Tie the hops up in a pillow case and dry away. Keep the temperature
between 130F and 150F( Malting and Brewing Science p. 309).
* Gee I thought this would have been more severely jumped on than it was.
So here's my 2c. The rough and tumble of a dryer would be severely
detrimental to hop drying IMHO. I've made efforts to rough out the bugs
from my hops while drying them on a screen, and have collected significant
droppings of lupulin crystals. The little yellow bits that you might find
in the bottom of a bag of whole hops. These are as miller might say,
"the heart of the hops". Thats where all the precious alpha acids and then
some would be found.
Excessive heat, rough handling and excessive air exposure are enemies of
quality hop treatment. If you live in a arid climate a fruit dryer or
window screens woill be quite adequate. If no need more, a box fan with a
screen sitting on it will suffice. If you find that "hop pillow" covered
with a yellow tinge on the inside you can probably count on doubling your
hop additions to compensate, course if you know anyone with insomnia, lend
them your pillowcase, and they're on their way to sheepville, if you know
what I mean.
***
Oh, Al. You've done it again. First you admit you never took Organic
Chemisty, now you've demonstrated you haven't taken physical chem either.
"Brewing in zero gravity would be pretty impossible unless you were to
create an artificial gravity by using centrifical force. The bubbles
would form and "wouldn't know which way is up" so they would just sit
there amdist all the beer. Here on earth we rely on gravity to pull
the beer to the bottom of the fermenter so that the CO2 rises to the
top and comes out the airlock."
* The bubbles do not rise because of gravity, but rather buoancy, ok
so gravity might be involved.... But that aside, the real activity is a
matter of gas exiting a liquid, gas exchange. This is due to partial
pressure differences. Assuming you could contain a vessel of fermenting
fluid in space, and come up with a "air-less" lock, you would find even
MORE CO2 exiting the fluid than you would on earth, since space is close to
a vacuum the partial pressure of CO2 outside would be nill. Whereas on
earth the second most major gas in the atmosphere is CO2. It's kinda like
osmosis- moving from an area of high concentration, down a concentration
gradient, to an area of low conc.
Question is: how much would it cost to ship the supplies and equipment
necessary to brew a batch of beer in space? Less, I would guess, than an
Egyptian brew.
Tut tut tut. Might make for a good doctoral thesis proposal though. Takers?
Any one have a good name for a "spacey" brew? We did just have a blue
moon, but that name has already been taken.
Well I'm not gonna quote equations or formulas this time. My texts
are too dusty and spider ridden thank you very much. So, TTFN. -John-
PS: Just went to watch the 4th's fireworks. What a blast. Hope it was good
for you too. I better brew a batch this weekend and name it appropriately
eh?
- --------------------------------------------
/// The Cosmic Coyote \\\ ccoyote at sunrem.com
- --------------------------------------------
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From: Andrew <adkligerman at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 12:28:54 GMT
Subject: Cooper's Extra Stout, Corn Syrup
I posted this a few digests ago, but I got no responses so I'll try again.
Does anyone have a recipe or know the ingredients for Cooper's Extra Dry
Stout from Down under? I tried it last week and found it to be a fine
stout. Come on you Aussies--you must have tried some %^! .
Also, I looked at the ingredients in corn (Kayro) syrup. It has corn syrup,
fructose, salt and vanilla. I do not know how fermentable the corn syrup is
or if it has residual dextrins.
Andy Kligerman
Hillsborough, NC
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From: Kathy Booth <kbooth at ingham.k12.mi.us>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 08:43:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: refermentations?
I brewed 10 g Marzen and bottled 5 gal of it. Too Hoppy!
I boiled up 3# DME in 3-1/2 g water and split to two carboys with
lager yeast (one was from the Marzen and the other was the same yeast but
a bock I'd just bottled) into which I'd split the remaining 5 g of Marzen.
The carboys had been three months alagering where the temp had been in the
low 50's (my compresser went kaput and I'd been adding gallon jugs of ice
from my regular freezer) so the temp had been varying slightly.
I stirred the yeasts by swirling until they were uncaked, and
added the unfermented wort via a funnel. I figured I had loads of yeast
for 3#DME so I didn't areate except the swirling and funnelling.
Back into the 50'ish degree freezer to ferment, but nothing has
happened. Virtually no fermentation in either carboy after 60 hrs.
Questions:
Is 60 hrs too short for the lager yeast to revive?
Would 3 months alagering leave the yeasts too dormant to revive?
Did the up and down temp variations in my "ice cave" from the
loadings (49-55 F) do in my yeasts?
Is adding 3 1/2 g new wort with 3# DME into 4 1/2 g fermented beer
a poor medium for yeast to work?
Should this have received more aeration than swirling and
funnelling?
Opinions and advices welcomed.....cheers jim booth, lansing, mi
kbooth at isd.ingham.k12.mi.us
P.S. No one responded with the historic name for cider and ale
fermentations and its not in the AOB Dictionary of Beer Terminology.
Did I dream that it exists? jhb
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From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 05 Jul 96 13:03:13 EDT
Subject: Hops in Spaaace
Robin Decker ask for thoughts on brewing in space.
Recalling that ALL of the liquids will be recycled in a spacecraft, I suspect
there will be a sign over the urinal that reads:
"You don't buy our beer you just borrow it, again and again and
again......"
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
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From: Kurt Schilling <kurt at pop.iquest.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 96 12:36 EST
Subject: re: Cider recipes
Greetings brewsters et al:
In HBD 2092 Keith Royster asked for some input on cider making. Since that
happens to be one of my favorite things, I thought that I'd reply.
Making hard cider is a bit easier than brewing a good beer. Basic recipe
cals for 5 gallons of sweet cider or preservative free apple juice (OG
1.040-1.045 or thereabout), add 2 cups sugar to raise gravity to in the
1.060 range. 1/2 tsp tannin per gallon, and 1 tbl yeat nutrient per 5
gallons. You can use just about any good ale yeast (Wyeast #1056 works
well, as does Wyeast #2212). You can use dark brown sugar if you wish to
have a little darker colored cider. I advise not adding any acid blend or
additional citric acid until just before you are ready to bottle. Many
recipes call for adding "X amount" of acid blend. If you do this with out
first checking the acidity of the must, you risk making a cider that will be
too sour/tart to be comsumed. Pick up an acid test kit at your local
homebrew shop and check the acidity and adjust to the range of 0.6-0.8%
before bottling. These low alcohol ciders are best comsumend young, ie
within 4 months of bottling as there are no preservatives.
BTW: Keith, thanks for all the good info on RIMS. And a tip o the hat to
Dave B, Tracy A, and AlK and the rest of your folks for the excellent
discussion on enzyme activity and mashing over the past couple of weeks.
Kurt Schilling (kurt at iquest.net)
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From: Maxwell McDaniel <maxwellm at microsoft.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 12:43:36 -0700
Subject: Good source for brew supplies in Seattle area
Hey all...
I just moved from Houston to Seattle (actually Issaquah) and am looking
for someones opinion on the better local homebrew stores in the area.
TIA
Maxwell McDaniel
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