Homebrew Digest Monday, 8 July 1996 Number 2095
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
RE: Bottles for Beer ("CHUCK HUDSON, ER LAB 3-2865")
BJCP exam in Cincinnati 8/10/96 (Ed Westemeier)
RIMS rest (Phil Slotter)
Re: hop drying, new hop question (texan at mindspring.com (James and Tamara Williams))
Brew Supplies in Seattle (bobh at instanet.com (Bob H))
Recycled bottles ("David R. Burley")
winemaking (Edwin_Laney at oxy.com (Edwin Laney))
Drying Hops (GSHUTELOCK at aol.com)
All grain "mashing time" ("Mark E. Dickinson")
Hops (Terry)
force carbonation w/ SS airstone ("Sharon A. Ritter")
Re: Cooper's Extra Stout, Corn Syrup (WineNBrew at aol.com)
Atmospheric CO2 (James R Myers)
Re: Hops ("Robert A. Uhl")
Religion and beer ("Dr. Larry Allen")
oxygenation of wort (DougieJP at aol.com)
Hydrometer Use and Temp (ronmis at getnet.com (Ron))
Belgian yeasts/Coopers stout (awalsh at world.net (Andy Walsh))
dried yeast, extract, aeration, esters, sugar syrups, 2112 (robtrish at mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston))
Re: Bottles for Beer (aesoph at ncemt1.ctc.com (Aesoph, Michael))
Boil-over cleanup. (Mike Foster)
Iodine / decoction mashing (Bill Press)
Hop skunkage... ("Pat Babcock")
Re: Hops in space/Hunter Airstat Experience (KMacneal at aol.com)
Re:Maerzen/Two Stage Chillers (KMacneal at aol.com)
Freezing UNDRIED hop (martin at wcu.campus.mci.net (tim martin))
N2 and Guiness faucets (MicahM1269 at aol.com)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "CHUCK HUDSON, ER LAB 3-2865" <CHUDSON at mozart.unm.edu>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 16:27:10 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: RE: Bottles for Beer
Use your own bottles!!! I have five cases of empties and have not paid one cent
for them ( Of course except the ones I drank!). the empties I find are from the
local bars and pubs. Most bartenders are great about saving empties for you IF
you ask first.
Keep them airlocks bubbling
Chuck Hudson
chudson at mozart.unm.edu
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From: Ed Westemeier <hopfen at iac.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 16:47:27 -0400
Subject: BJCP exam in Cincinnati 8/10/96
The Beer Judge Certification Program will administer the BJCP exam in
Cincinnati on Saturday, August 10th.
No walk-ins; all exam takers must be registered by July 31st.
For details, contact Ed Westemeier via one of the following methods:
E-mail:
hopfen at iac.net
Snail mail:
Ed Westemeier
PO Box 258
New Richmond, OH 45157-0258
Phone:
Day: 513-576-2872
Evening: 513-321-2023
************************************************************
* Ed Westemeier ** Cincinnati, Ohio *
* E-mail: hopfen at iac.net ** Phone: (513) 321-2473 *
* World Wide Web site: http://www.iac.net/~hopfen/ *
************************************************************
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From: Phil Slotter <pslotter at ids.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 21:45:22 -0400
Subject: RIMS rest
I just finished building a RIMS setup using a 40 qt cooler and PVC
manifold. While all the bells and whistles arent attached yet, the
equipment seems to operate fine, but I have no experience with procedure
and operation.
My question is: during a protein rest at around 120 deg, should I run
the pump and circulate or just let it sit and "rest"?
Any help on RIMS operation would be appreciated.
TIA
Phil Slotter
Flying Goat Dog Pico Brewery
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From: texan at mindspring.com (James and Tamara Williams)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 22:44:57 -0400
Subject: Re: hop drying, new hop question
Several people have panned the idea of using a clothes dryer to dry fresh
hops. While I agree that the tumbling action would be harmful, what about
those dryers that include a special shelf used for drying shoes. The
inserted shelf holds the shoes in the middle of the dryer without tumbling.
Now a new question about hop use. How does the use of hop socks affect
utilization (I usually use hop plugs)?
Although I have no references, I've suspected keeping the hops bunched
together in the sock instead of allowing them to spread throughout the
boiling wort cuts utilization. The problem with free floating hops is the
difficulty of removing the spent hops from the wort during cooling. Out of
fear of the dreaded HSA, I've just let the hops stay in the boil. This
seems to me to be counterproductive with aroma hops added at the end of the
boil. Does leaving the hops in the wort while cooling (with an immersion
chiller) continue to drive off the aroma qualities as with hops used in the
full boil?
TIA,
James Williams
check out the homepage for the South Atlanta Association of Zymurgists
http://www.mindspring.com/~texan/SAAZ.html
Return to table of contents
From: bobh at instanet.com (Bob H)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 19:22:12 -0700
Subject: Brew Supplies in Seattle
I just got back from Seattle about a month. Go down to the Pikes Place
Market, and there is a great shop there. Called Liberty Malt Supply
Company, they have a microbrewery there on premises, and a decent
representation of beer making supplies. The other interesting thing that
they have going for them is a cold supply of microbrews from all over. I
really recommend them, the sales staff is extremely knowledgable and
forthright with info.
However, if they don't have what you're looking for, I can probably find it
from my sources down here in sunny Southern Califonia, where we have a shop
that has everything you can think of for making not only homemade beers, but
wines, cheeses, soda pop, and even vinegar!
===================================================
Bob Holden, E.A.W.F Software/Lake Manor Brewery
InterNet: bobh at instanet.com .OR. www.instanet.com/~bobh
===================================================
Return to table of contents
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 05 Jul 96 23:31:57 EDT
Subject: Recycled bottles
Brewsters:
Ron asks if it is ok to use recycled bottles rather than paying an exhorbitant
amount for *empty* bottles.
I have also asked myself why are these so expensive when they can ship bottles
from overseas with beer in them for hardly any more money. Why such a ripoff?
I used to go dump picking for wine bottles, but now even that isn't possible,
since they break them up. I'm sure the fact that they mix plastic and glass
together( at least in NJ) means they aren't recycling anything. It is just for
show.
Sure, I have "returnable" quart bottles with crown cap tops that I have been
re-using for more than twenty or more years ( they aren't available any more to
my knowledge). The more you use them, the better they get, if you rinse them
out
immediately after you pour your beer.
Personally,I would redo your sterilization, since you may be in for trouble
from
the soap residue in the bottles, which could negatively affect the head on your
beer. There is no need for the antibacterial soap , bleach is MUCH stronger and
doesn't leave a residue. I would re-rinse them in strong bleach solution ( a
tablespoon in a little over a half bottle of warm water and rinse them three
times with near boiling water, just before you bottle. Wear safety glasses and
rubber gloves. Don't get burned, use a funnel to pour the water into the
bottles and use something to protect your fingers from the hot glass.
- ----------------------------------------------
Charlie Scandrett provided some excellent info on a grain bed and the reasons
for a high bed temperature.(Thanks) Do you or anyone else have a viscosity/
temp/concentration equation with parameters?
- ----------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
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From: Edwin_Laney at oxy.com (Edwin Laney)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 23:49:21 -0500
Subject: winemaking
I've made 2 batches of wine from wine-art concentrate,one logenberry and 1
cherry. The logenberry recipe I followed closely,the cherry I just racked
to the carboy after primary fermentation,put it in the closet and forgot
about it until bottling.Both batches lacked body but clarity was
excellent.The logenberry alcohol content was o.k. but the cherry very
low.I added some Danish Kiajfa cherry wine,which is 16% alcohol,to the
cherry wine and it is now drinkable.Any comments on how to increase body
and alcohol content would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,Edwin Laney at CTANOV41
Return to table of contents
From: GSHUTELOCK at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 09:13:30 -0400
Subject: Drying Hops
It would seem to me that the best way to dry hops would be to use a food
dehydrator. I'm currently raising a couple varieties of hops (Cascade and
Fuggles) and if I get any kind of crop this year intended to pop the cones
into the dehydrator that I use for drying herbs and veggies. The dehydrator
has a temperature control and fan for even heat distribution. Anyone see any
reason that this wouldn't work?
TIA - George Shutelock, Mechanicsburg, PA
Return to table of contents
From: "Mark E. Dickinson" <dfs at connix.com>
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 09:51:23 -0400
Subject: All grain "mashing time"
Hello All:
I am a new all grain brewer ( just made my third batch). My questions are on
mashing time and the iodine test.
The last two times I brewed the iodine never turned black. I am using Iodines
Tincture (Decolorized Iodine):
Question 1 - Should I be using colorized or something else???
I have read that the longer you hold the temperature during the mash the lower
the FG will be.
Question 2 - Is this True???
I recently made a doppelbock with an OG of 1.100.
Question 3- should I refrigerate the beer just until fermentation
stops or for the full 9 months (the recommended time), and when I bottle should
the
bottles be kept at a certain temperature.
As you can see I have a lot of novice questions, but I am willing to learn.
Thanks for your help.
Mark Dickinson
PS. My first batch was nothing but hopped water, my second batch was a very
good
drinking beer and I looking forward to my third batch.
Return to table of contents
From: Terry <brew at buffnet.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 10:09:55 GMT
Subject: Hops
I have five varietys of hops growing in my back yard and they are growing
fine except some insects have been munching on them. Does anyone know of an
organic bug killer that I can use without out making "bug spray beer".
Better living through fermentation.
www.dnci.com/brewfellow
Return to table of contents
From: "Sharon A. Ritter" <102446.3717 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 06 Jul 96 11:13:18 EDT
Subject: force carbonation w/ SS airstone
I have a SS airstone (nominal porosity: 2 microns) that I use with an
aquarium pump to inject air into my wort. I'm contemplating using the
same stone to speed up the carbonation of my kegged beer. I've been able
to glean bits of info from those that have written about this technique
so here goes:
1. Connect the airstone to the short CO2 "in" downtube inside my keg
using 1/4 hose - long enough for the stone to reach the bottom of the
keg.
2. Hook up the CO2 and apply the appropriate pressure for the temp. of
beer (according to The Chart).
Do I open the release valve on the lid during this process? (My
intuition tells me "foam!"). If the release valve stays closed, won't
the CO2 injection be over in a matter of minutes? In either case, how
long do I keep the CO2 hooked up for full carbonation? After it's over,
do I have to stick my grubby hands in the keg to remove the airstone or
can I keep the thing hooked up during dispensing?
For those of you wondering why I don't just hook up the CO2 and shake
the keg as many recommend...it's because of an unknown phobia and
completely irrational fear of shaking my beer. I can't explain it!
Dan Ritter in Grangeville, Idaho
102446.3717 at compuserve.com
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From: WineNBrew at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 12:18:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Cooper's Extra Stout, Corn Syrup
Andy Kligerman wrote on: Fri, Jul 5, 1996 7:29 AM EST:
I posted this a few digests ago, but I got no responses so I'll try again.
Does anyone have a recipe or know the ingredients for Cooper's Extra Dry
Stout from Down under? I tried it last week and found it to be a fine
stout. Come on you Aussies--you must have tried some %^! .
Answer: Dear Andy, The Coopers company manufacturers and sells Coopers Stout
malt extract/kit which we sell. I would assume that they take the same care
with their kit as they do with their bottled product. :)
Andy also wrote:
Also, I looked at the ingredients in corn (Kayro) syrup. It has corn syrup,
fructose, salt and vanilla. I do not know how fermentable the corn syrup is
or if it has residual dextrins.
Answer: Sure, you can use Kayro syrup. Customers have asked me for many years
if they could.......because they figured they could be cheap and avoid buying
corn sugar or dry malt extract. The main reason they have not used Kayro is
that it has a vanilla flavor. Vanilla is fine in ice cream....but do you want
that flavor in your beer?
Maybe........???? Hmmmm? Maybe not??????
Zup to you!
Cheers! :)
Sandra & Craig
Wine & Brew By You, Inc.
Miami, Florida
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From: James R Myers <James.R.Myers-1 at tc.umn.edu>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 11:58:12 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Atmospheric CO2
> In HBD 2094, John (The Coyote) Wyllie (ccoyote at sunrem.com) spouted:
>Whereas on earth the second most major gas in the atmosphere is CO2.
I'm not sure what time period you happen to live in or planet you happen
to live on (Venus?),but lucky for us, you're wrong about CO2 in the here
and now. The last time CO2 approached anything near such
a significant portion of the earth's atmosphere was about 2.5 billion years
ago, before O2-producing and CO2-consuming photosynthetic organisms evolved.
N2 and O2 are the two most prevalent gases in the atmosphere today, accounting
for about 76% and 21% of the atmosphere, respectively. Water vapor varies
from about 1-4% (it's not the heat, it's the stupidity), while CO2
currently makes up a measly 0.03% (and apparently rising). Sorry for the
lesson in atmospheric composition, but it seems at least obliquely relevant
to homebrewing.
Cheers and beers,
Jim Myers
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From: "Robert A. Uhl" <ruhl at odin.cair.du.edu>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 12:49:52 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Hops
On Sat, 6 Jul 1996, Homebrew Digest REQUEST Address Only wrote:
> I have five varietys of hops growing in my back yard and they are growing
> fine except some insects have been munching on them. Does anyone know of an
> organic bug killer that I can use without out making "bug spray beer".
Get a pack of cigarettes (cigars & pipe tobacco are too nice to waste)
and dump into a quart of water. Soak until the water is a dark brown.
Remove the cigarettes and spray the brown water on your plants. This
will kill most bugs until it rains, after which it will wash off.
This is concentrated nicotine. Don't get it on any open wound,
don't ingest it, don't inhale it &c. It is DEADLY. But it washes
right off, so it's safe.
Anyone know how much tobacco would be poisonous in 5 gallons of
water? I'd like to make a vaguely tobacco flavored beer, but I don't
want it enough to die for it... I remain
Yours,
Robert Uhl
Chief Programmer,
CR Systems
Dr. Dan Streetmentioner Chair of Linguistics
Return to table of contents
From: "Dr. Larry Allen" <docsbrew at inland.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 13:25:33 -0700
Subject: Religion and beer
Some while back, there was this thread.......I know you remember it! Did
anyone put together/save the religion and beer thread? I'd love to be able
to refer back to the thots of the collective when discussing this sensitive
subject.
Thanks in advance!
Doc.
*************
Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people.
It is wholly inadequate to the government of any other.
John Adams, 1798
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From: DougieJP at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 19:00:42 -0400
Subject: oxygenation of wort
I remember some discussion of oxygenating wort prior to fermentation using
pure oxygen in the Digest some time back and had a question. I have a
Bernzomatic MAPP gas/Oxygen torch that uses cannisters of oxygen and was
considering using this for this purpose. Two questions:
1.) Is this a safe source of oxygen? Is there anything in these cannisters
that would be bad, like any sort of oil or other impurities?
2.) Has anyone else tried this and were the results acceptable?
I have been using the aquarium air pump method up until now but have had some
concerns about the possibilties of getting some strange wayward wild yeasties
in my wort. I haven't had any problems as yet, but figured since I basically
have the setup to use the oxygen I might give it a try. Any comments would
be greatly appreciated.
- -- Doug Price
dougiejp at aol.com
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From: ronmis at getnet.com (Ron)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 17:13:01 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Hydrometer Use and Temp
First let me thank EVERYONE who responded to my very first post here a few
days ago! Being very new to brewing it is GREAT to know that I can find
support when I need it. Hopefully, I will one day be knowledgeable enough
to help out someone myself! For now, I have yet another question.
After reading some posts I decided to buy a hydrometer. I now have one, but
the instructions are limited and just for wine, not beer. It appears that I
know my wert is "done" when the reading changes on the hydrometer. Question
is, how much change am I looking for? Is there such a thing as too much
change? I started with a small Mr. Beer package and they mentioned nothing
about a hydrometer. Now that Ive graduated to a five gallon container I
find the brewing to be somewhat more difficult.
Finally, being from the Southwest it gets very hot here. My bottles bake in
95 degree air all day and then drop down to 80 when I get in from work and
kick the air on. I am diligent, however, in keeping them out of light. So
my question is, in the summertime, should I just prime the bottles in the
fridge around 65 degrees or would that not work?
Thanks again for the help!
ron
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From: awalsh at world.net (Andy Walsh)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 17:21:14 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Belgian yeasts/Coopers stout
A question on Belgian ale strains.
I want to make a Chimay copy, so want to use the Chimay yeast. 1214 is
supposedly the one, but usually gives a huge (unpleasant) banana ester. For
those who have cultured the yeast out of Chimay bottles, have you
encountered this characteristic from real Chimay yeast too? If not, then
this means 1214 is not really the real thing, no?
***********
Andrew Kligerman asks about Coopers stout...
>Come on you Aussies--you must have tried some %^! .
Us? Nope, never! We just drink XXXX, VB and Fosters over here.
(Well, maybe I've had it just once or twice).
I honestly have never tried to make this beer. Why should I when I can buy
it anywhere? I have looked up my books for specs, but could not find
anything concrete, so I'll just have to have a stab at it.
It is basically a foreign style stout: quite bitter (maybe 45 IBU),
alcoholic (6.8%), coffeeish and oily. I believe Coopers use dextrose in all
their beers, including this one. My Roger Protz (a Pom) book says they use
lager malt, crystal and roast barley. I would have guessed a little
chocolate as well. Pride of Ringwood hops are certainly used.
So here goes nothing!
********************
SUDS Recipe Report Page: 1
07/07/1996 17:05:04 Coopers clone
Category : Foreign-Style Stout
Method : Full Mash
Starting Gravity : 1.069
Ending Gravity : 1.017
Alcohol content : 6.7%
Recipe Makes : 5.0 gallons
Total Grain : 12.75 lbs.
Color (srm) :137.8
Efficiency : 75%
Hop IBUs : 42.7
Malts/Sugars:
0.25 lb. Chocolate
0.75 lb. Crystal 60L
9.50 lb. Lager 2-Row
1.25 lb. Roast Barley
1.00 lb. dextrose
Hops:
1.00 oz. pof ringwood 9.5% 60 min
********************
You get the idea. Maybe a little more chocolate, hops and roast?
Culture yeast from a bottle of either Coopers sparkling ale or Coopers
stout. If that doesn't work or you can't find any, Yeastlabs Australian ale
yeast is the Coopers one. If you can't find yeastlabs, Wyeast London is a
pretty good general purpose ale yeast. Do *not* use the packet Coopers yeast
as it is actually the Maori Foods ale yeast in disguise. Drinking beer made
from this yeast will render the punter incapable of pronouncing the vowel 'i'.
Andy.
*************************************************************
Wohlgemuth Walsh from Sydney
email: awalsh at world.net (or awalsh at crl.com.au if you prefer)
I *am* from here. Wanna make sumthin of it?
*************************************************************
Return to table of contents
From: robtrish at mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 96 06:52 PDT
Subject: dried yeast, extract, aeration, esters, sugar syrups, 2112
Fellow followers of the HBD:
I'd first like to ask about people's experience using Wyeast 2112,
California lager, especially fermenting at 17-18'C. Anyone? Is that
pushing it too far on the warm side?
I thought some of you might be interested in my experience last month
brewing fifty batches of beer, fifty litres (13 US gallons) apiece. This
was at a BOP (Brew On Premise).
The objective in most cases was to produce a product resembling mainstream
beers in two weeks. Unhopped malt extract syrups were the starting point on
the barley end of the wort. The recipes in use called for large amounts of
powdered dextrose or a sugar syrup. One of the refined sugars is a mixture
of mono-, di-, tri and higher saccharides, and is IMHO, an excellent
adjunct. It is distributed in BC by a company called Sandoz under the name
Clear Brew. Also check out Hidex, though I haven't used it myself.
Just as it is possible to make beer from extract, and with dried yeast, it
is also quite possible to use sugar adjuncts. I'd say it's recommended for
imitating mainstream beers. At this BOP, the customers were pleased with
products that broke all three of these purist taboos. And these were
customers are not indiscriminate.
I adjusted the recipes to ensure a minimum of 50% malt extract and added a
yeast derived nutrient called Fermaid by Lalvin/Lallemand at the rate of
10g/50L to compensate for the refined sugars. I rehydrated the dried yeast
(Nottingham, also Lalvin, and the one Kinney Baughman reported using at his
esteemed establishment) for fifteen minutes in room temperature sterile
water. This is what is practicable; the manufacturer's rehydration
instructions are re-posted below.
Note in the rehydration instructions below the reference to (this) yeasts
max temp. differential tolerance -- 10'C, as someone else posted earlier.
I also aerated by injecting pure 02. So here's the aeration/ester thread,
reports on the behaviour of this particular yeast, fed as I've described. I
get a consistent (50/50 batches) apricot ester flavour (aroma included) in a
product which the customers have found to be highly satisfying. The weird
candy sweetness that I find in most BOP beers has been eliminated. The
beers that turn out on the sweet side get there by being underhopped, not
due to the adjuncts.
I've changed the procedures at this brewery in several ways so it's hard to
isolate cause and effect, but I believe the pure O2 is key to the ester
formation in this situation. It was not present in other beers using this
yeast.
- -- Rob Lauriston in Vernon, B.C.
- -=-=-=-=-
P.S.
Lallemand / Lalvin sheet on their Nottingham English ale yeast give the
following instructions for rehydration. Recommended pitching rate works out
to 10g / 20 litres.
"Mix the yeast with ten (10) times its weight of clean chemical-free water
at 37/42' Celsius (98/102'F), leave undisturbed for fifteen (15) minutes,
stir and mix with wort. Do not rehydrate in wort. [... our yeast has
sufficient nutrients for this phase...]
"Beer yeast cells tend to be vulnerable to mutation (petit colony for
nation) because of temperature shock. A temperature difference of 10'C can
shock the yeast and induce mutations that could affect the flavour of the
beer. Thus the rehydrated yeast chould be atemperated, by mixing the wort,
so that the temperature between the yeast slurry and the main wort is less
than 10'C. For an ale wort pitched at about 20'C this would involve a
50/50 dilution with wort after the 15 minute rehydration rest. This rest at
30'C chould last for between 5 and 10 minutes. After, the yeast may be
pitched directly into the body of the wort. Should the pitching temperature
be 10'C (for a lager or cold fermented ale) then one more intermediate
temperature rest stage would be necessary. Do not allow the yeast slurry
rehydrated at 40'C to atemperate naturally. This would take to long and
would result in many of the cells dying."
- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
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From: aesoph at ncemt1.ctc.com (Aesoph, Michael)
Date: 07 Jul 96 10:56:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Bottles for Beer
Dear Ron:
When it comes to beer bottles, there's only one place to go in my
book..... Go to the nearest beer retailer and get 16 ounce returnable
bottles. They are typically $1.50 - $2.00 for a case of 24. Keep in
mind the following things:
1) They are NOT clean and can (and do) have everything from mold to
cigarrette butts in them and must be washed thouroughly before use...
2) Get the same kind every time... Initially, you can mix and match, but
later on when you have to start mixing bottles, they may or may not fit
in each other's cases. This is the situation I am in now. I've decided
to "standardize" to Busch / Bud light bottles. These have the TAPERED
NECK and do not "glug" as much when you pour them!!! Long necks tend to
"glug" alot and stir up the yeast. I've also had some trouble with long
necks bursting - I dont know why, but I haven't had ANY tapered necked
bottles burst yet. NOTE: I am having this trouble with home soda
only....
3) They must be returnable. No threads on the lip or they won't seal.
4) Watch out for foreign brands, they may have metric sized necks. They
look the same size, but they are not and can't be capped.
5) That's all I can think of for now......
Have a nice day and keep brewing........ Broaden your horizons and try
wines / sodas!
==================================================
Michael D. Aesoph Associate Engineer
==================================================
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From: Mike Foster <mfoster1 at voyager.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 11:48:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Boil-over cleanup.
My second batch boiled over two days ago, and now I have carbonized wort
stuck to my wife's enameled white stove. How can I get this stuff off
without ruining the finish of the stove? Also, there are stubborn stains on
the drip trays that I need to remove.
- -Mike Foster mfoster1 at voyager.net
Lord Wulfgar Silberbar proto-incipient Shire of Altenberg
#88 goalie for the SPC Flyers
Jessica Benson Virtual Adept extrordinaire
What? Me? Schizophrenic? Am not!
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From: Bill Press <press at lip.wustl.edu>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 11:46:00 -0500
Subject: Iodine / decoction mashing
I've been reading some messages debating the iodine test, saying that
it is a poor indicator for conversion as the husks may react with the
iodine. So I wanted to post my results from yesterdays brewing:
To start off, we took a crushed grain of barley, put it in a bowl with
a touch of water, and added a drop of iodine. The grain and the water
around it turned purplish black, from the iodine's original light
yellowish-reddish-brown.
We then started mashing (double decoction -- protein rest -> boil 1/2
of the grain -> add it back for sacchrification rest -> boil liquid ->
mashout) and tested the liquor with iodine throughout.
After doughing in, the liquor, which was fairly turbid, turned black
immediately. During sacchrification, after about an hour, the
reaction became less and less intense. After an hour and a half of
sacchrification, the liquor tested negative (almost no change from the
iodine's original color). To test for good extraction from the grain,
we took out a kernal of spent grain and a drop of iodine to it: no
reaction.
So, I wanted to supply my experience with iodine: that it can be used,
reliably, to detect the degree of sacchrification, and that
sacchrification is not complete until iodine tests negative.
Bill
p.s. This was my first experience with decoction mashing. While it
was alot more work than infusion mashing, the resulting wort tasted
incredible! No tannin astringency, as they precipitated out in the
first decoction. I can't wait to taste the finished product (Red Ant
Lager).
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From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 17:41:45 +0500
Subject: Hop skunkage...
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Taking a quick break during the sparge of my 15 gallon batch of
nondescript pale ale 6,70 to share this observation:
After bagging the hops (plugs; Cascade) in preparation fo rhte boil,
I continued working outside in the sun. About 15 minutes later, I
happenned to wipe my nose. Skunk city, folks! So: did some of the
oils isomerize on my hands to be skunked by the UV affect? What's the
deal? I thought that isomerization was required for this to happen...
Anyone care to weigh in on this? (I _DO_ have witnesses...)
See ya!
Pat Babcock in Canton, Michigan (Western Suburb of Detroit)
pbabcock at oeonline.com URL: http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/
Visit the HomeBrew Flea Market via my homepage!
URL: http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/
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From: KMacneal at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 18:23:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Hops in space/Hunter Airstat Experience
>>From: "Decker, Robin E." <robind at rmtgvl.rmtinc.com>
>>Date: Mon, 1 Jul 96 16:48:00 -0500
>>Subject: "Hops in Spaaaace"
>>Last, but not least, can we get anyone involved in the shuttle to champion
>>our cause, and do a little research in advance? <g>
The brewers of Beck's (I think) has already sponsored a shuttle experiment
investigating the effects of space on brewers yeast. I think they are coming
out with a commercial product based on the yeast grown in a recent shuttle
mission.
>>From: Mike_Bell at ccmail.va.grci.com
>>Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 13:08:54 -0400
>>Subject: Freezer Temperature Controller
>>A while back there was a thread on Hunter Airstat temperature controllers.
>>I don't recall the outcome of the thread, but remember problems with the
>>controller sticking in the 'on' position and turning the beer into ice.
>>The same problem also occurred with homemade units.
>>
>>Does anyone have experience with the long term reliability of the Hunter
>>Airstat temperature controllers, and/or the homemade units? Any thoughts
>>on which route would be best?
I've had a Hunter Airstat on an old upright freezer for a couple of years
now. A friend of mine had to repair it twice already. It wouldn't turn the
freezer on (the opposite problem referenced above). It wasn't a difficult
fix, but then again my friend is an electrical engineer with acess to all the
right tools and components.
Keith MacNeal
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From: KMacneal at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 18:24:22 -0400
Subject: Re:Maerzen/Two Stage Chillers
>>From: Paul.Lambie at ncal.kaiperm.org
>>Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:52 -0700 (PDT)
>>Subject: Marzen/lager starter
>>I'm planning to brew a Marzen for my next project and would appreciate
>>any recipes (all grain) and suggestions for Wyeast yeast to use. I
>>plan to make a 4 liter starter - what temperature would be recommended
>>for fermentation of the starter culture?
Here's a recipe I like so far. I recently bottled this batch and it is
lagering now. It is based on a recipe I've had success with in the past.
Mac's Maerzen or Galileo Electro-Optoberfest
(makes 5 US gallons)
10 lb. German 2 row Pilsner malt
3/4 lb. German 2 row Light Crystal Malt
3/4 lb. British 2 row Crystal Malt (I'd estimate the color at around 60
lovibond)
1-1/2 oz. Saaz hop plug (3.1% AA) 45 min.
1/4 oz. Hallertau Hersbruker hop plug (2.7% AA) 45 min.
1/2 oz. Saaz hop plug (3.1% AA) 15 min.
Wyeast Munich Lager Yeast #2308
Single decoction mash.
OG = 1.066
FG = 1.008
Bottled in 5 liter minikegs with 1/3 cup corn sugar boiled in 1 pint of
water.
I pitched 1 qt. of yeast starter. 4 liters sounds excessive to me.
Everything I've read says, 1 qt. should be plenty for lagers unless you are
brewing a real big beer like a double bock.
>>From: RUSt1d? <rust1d at swamp.li.com>
>>Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 10:34:00 -0400
>>Subject: Two Step Chiller
>>The results of my 2 stage chill were pleasing. I use a 30' 3/8" copper coil
>>in a 5 gallon bucket with garden hose attachments (a cheap-o version of
>>the coil in PVC pipe kind they sell in homebrew mags). This brings the
>>wort to about 80F in the summer with the garden hose wide open and uses
>>lots of water. In an effect to reduce the amount of water used, I used a
>>mini-chiller on the cooled wort. I made a coil out of 10' of 1/4" copper
>>and stuck this in a cooler full of ice. The wort ran through this on its
>>way into the fermentor. I was able to reduce the garden hose flow to a
>>trickle and have the wort come out at 60F. It took about 45 gallons of
water
>>to cool 13 gallons of wort instead of about 100. All for the price of a
>>bag of ice (and the coil).
You could do this all at once and not worry about sanitizing the inside of
the second stage chiller by linking these two chillers in series. Hook the
10 ft coil to your water supply and place it inside a bucket of ice water.
Connect your immersion chiller to the outflow of the coil in the ice water.
The first coil will act to chill the cooling water supply to the immersion
chiller.
Keith MacNeal
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From: martin at wcu.campus.mci.net (tim martin)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 22:45:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Freezing UNDRIED hop
Hey Neighbors,
Jim asked:
>Has anyone here experimented with freezing UNDRIED hops? Comments?
I wouldn't call it an experiment but I froze last years crop (my first) of
N.Brew hops. I picked them off the vine and stuffed them into glass baby
food jars, tightened the lid and packed these into plastic wet wipe boxes
and all went into the freezer. At brew time I pulled one out to thaw and
used only for aroma since these are home grown and I didn't know the % AA.
I did find that they stayed moist and bright green, kept their aroma and
remained whole unlike the broken and flatten store bought ones. As to
whether they made a difference to the beer I really can't say for sure,
there was definitly a hop aroma to the beer but perhaps from the other
hops. I am going to do the same with this years crop, maybe I'm lazy,
no...I'm definitly lazy but it just doesn't make any sence to dry them
first and then freeze.
Perhaps it would be a good practice to squeeze the little buggers between
my fingers first to crush their glands...OUCH, to extract more of the good
stuff and then pop them into the wort.
Tim Martin
Buzzard's Roost HB
"with that strong predatory taste"
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From: MicahM1269 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 22:58:54 -0400
Subject: N2 and Guiness faucets
There has been quite a bit of bandwidth about the use of nitrogen for
dispencing beer. So I'll throw in as well. ( it may be that this topis has
come up in the past ) After using mixed gas 70/30, N2 /CO2 with fair sucess
on the home draft system for about 5 years. I switched to straight N2 as it
is cheaper than CO2 and easier to get. The cost of change over was a adaptor
for the regulator to fit the N2 cylinder approx $10. I am using Guiness flow
control faucets ( the old ones ) and dispencing at 18 - 20 psig. It works
very well with no great loss of carbonation, in spite of info to the
contrary. I am certain that this statement may be nay sayed. But I invite any
to stop by for a homebrew on the N2 to back it up.
micah - brewer at large
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